Changes

== Documentation ==

== Documentation ==

* [https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ Product Home Page]

* [https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ Product Home Page]

* [https://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3_en_3_04.pdf Prusa i3 MK3 Guide]

* [https://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3_en_3_04.pdf Prusa i3 MK3 Guide]

'''Terminology:'''

==== '''Terminology''' ====

* Nozzle/Extruder: The nozzle (or extruder) is the part of a 3D printer which deposits the molten plastic filament onto the 3D printer bed. The extruder can reach 200°-300°C, depending on the filament used, but typically stays around 215°C for regular prints.

* Nozzle/Extruder: The nozzle (or extruder) is the part of a 3D printer which deposits the molten plastic filament onto the 3D printer bed. The extruder can reach 200°-300°C, depending on the filament used, but typically stays around 215°C for regular prints.

* Heatbed: The heatbed is a 9.83" x 8.3" x 8.3" plate where the filament will be "printed" on. The bed heats up to around 60°C. Heated beds typically prevent the plastic from warping by keeping it warm. Warping is a common issue that happens on 3D printers, where the plastic of the print cools at an uneven rate, leaving the print wavy and not the way you intended.

* Heatbed: The heatbed is a 9.83" x 8.3" x 8.3" plate where the filament will be "printed" on. The bed heats up to around 60°C. Heated beds typically prevent the plastic from warping by keeping it warm. Warping is a common issue that happens on 3D printers, where the plastic of the print cools at an uneven rate, leaving the print wavy and not the way you intended.

* Feeder: The feeder is the part of the 3D printer that "feeds" the filament to the nozzle. Sometimes "feeder" and "extruder" are used synonomously, so it's important when you're teaching someone to differentiate whether or not you're talking about the ''nozzle'' extruder or the ''feeder'' extruder. Feeders are typically composed of stepper motors, gears, and sometimes bolts and pulleys to guide the filament to the hot end.

* Feeder: The feeder is the part of the 3D printer that "feeds" the filament to the nozzle. Sometimes "feeder" and "extruder" are used synonomously, so it's important when you're teaching someone to differentiate whether or not you're talking about the ''nozzle'' extruder or the ''feeder'' extruder. Feeders are typically composed of stepper motors, gears, and sometimes bolts and pulleys to guide the filament to the hot end.

* Fan:     There are usually two fans on the nozzle of a 3D printer, and they serve     the purpose of cooling the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle.     If the plastic is super hot, we don't want it to move as soon as it is in     place on the part we're making, otherwise our part will turn out warped or     failed. The fans are put in place to strategically cool the plastic as     soon as it comes out of the nozzle. You are able to turn the fan speeds up     and down in the slicer software (if that is a provided feature), but you     can manually configure it on the printer as well.

* Fan: There are usually two fans on the nozzle of a 3D printer, and they serve the purpose of cooling the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. If the plastic is super hot, we don't want it to move as soon as it is in place on the part we're making, otherwise our part will turn out warped or failed. The fans are put in place to strategically cool the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. You are able to turn the fan speeds up and down in the slicer software (if that is a provided feature), but you can manually configure it on the printer as well.

* Stepper     Motor: There are two main places where you'll find stepper motors on a 3D     printer. There's a motor for each axes, one for the x, y, and z. These     motors receive instructions from the gcode to move the certain axes at     certain points to create your print. There is also a stepper motor in the     extruder setup, pushing and pulling the filament whenever more or less is     needed for the current print.

* Stepper Motor: There are two main places where you'll find stepper motors on a 3D printer. There's a motor for each axes, one for the x, y, and z. These motors receive instructions from the gcode to move the certain axes at certain points to create your print. There is also a stepper motor in the extruder setup, pushing and pulling the filament whenever more or less is needed for the current print.

* Infill:     Infill has to do with a 3D print's structural integrity. It can be     multiple shapes and patterns (providing different strength optimizations),     different sizes, and different thicknesses. Infill ranges anywhere from 0%     (hollow) to 100% (solid). It is very unlikely you'll ever want a print to     be 100% infill, because it takes an insane amount of filament and a lot of     time to complete. Most 3D prints are 20% infill since it is the most     optimal choice for cost efficiency and durability. If your concern is     cost, a lesser infill density is a good way to go. If strength and mass is     important, a higher density (between 30%-50%) is a good estimate. When     using a higher infill, always double check to make sure it's a good idea     for your part, and that you're using the right machine. Other 3D printers     in the prototype lab have the option of a stronger filament than PLA or     ABS, so it may be a better idea to print for strength on those rather than     the Prusas.

* Infill: Infill has to do with a 3D print's structural integrity. It can be multiple shapes and patterns (providing different strength optimizations), different sizes, and different thicknesses. Infill ranges anywhere from 0% (hollow) to 100% (solid). It is very unlikely you'll ever want a print to be 100% infill, because it takes an insane amount of filament and a lot of time to complete. Most 3D prints are 20% infill since it is the most optimal choice for cost efficiency and durability. If your concern is cost, a lesser infill density is a good way to go. If strength and mass is important, a higher density (between 30%-50%) is a good estimate. When using a higher infill, always double check to make sure it's a good idea for your part, and that you're using the right machine. Other 3D printers in the prototype lab have the option of a stronger filament than PLA or ABS, so it may be a better idea to print for strength on those rather than the Prusas.

* Filament:     There are many different kinds of filament you can use on the 3D printer,     ranging from PLA, to ABS, TPU to Nylon. The most common of these are PLA     and ABS. PLA stands for Polylactic Acid, it is the most common desktop 3D     printing filament because it is odorless and very hard to warp on its own,     therefore not always a need for a heated bed. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile     Butadiene Styrene. It's one of the most commercial versions of plastic     available (found in legos, packaging, and more)--it's durable, scratch     resistant, and tough. Heated beds are a must with ABS filament because it     is so temperature sensitive, so it warps very easily. The Prusas use 1.75     mm filament.

* Filament: There are many different kinds of filament you can use on the 3D printer, ranging from PLA, to ABS, TPU to Nylon. The most common of these are PLA and ABS. PLA stands for Polylactic Acid, it is the most common desktop 3D printing filament because it is odorless and very hard to warp on its own, therefore not always a need for a heated bed. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. It's one of the most commercial versions of plastic available (found in legos, packaging, and more)--it's durable, scratch resistant, and tough. Heated beds are a must with ABS filament because it is so temperature sensitive, so it warps very easily. The Prusas use 1.75 mm filament.

* CAD     Modeling and Thingiverse: There are two ways you can 3D print models. You     can either design your own with a CAD (computer-aided design) software, or     you can find something similar to what you want on websites like Thingiverse. Thingiverse has all     sorts of community-contributed designs, which you can download the .stl     files for, slice, and print the models. As for modeling your own projects,     there are multiple softwares you can use such as SolidWorks, AutoCAD,     Autodesk Inventor, FreeCAD, and many more.

* CAD Modeling and Thingiverse: There are two ways you can 3D print models. You can either design your own with a CAD (computer-aided design) software, or you can find something similar to what you want on websites like Thingiverse. Thingiverse has all sorts of community-contributed designs, which you can download the .stl files for, slice, and print the models. As for modeling your own projects, there are multiple softwares you can use such as SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Autodesk Inventor, FreeCAD, and many more.

* Slicing:     Each 3D printer uses a slicer software, a software where you can import     the model file (usually an .stl file) onto a computerized build plate,     resize, change up the nozzle and bed temperatures, adjust the infill and     precision, and more. The slicer software takes into consideration all your     configurations, then "slices" it into a .gcode file, a set of     instructions for the x, y, and z dimensions. The 3D printer can read and     tell the stepper motors what to do from the set of instructions within the     gcode. The slicer software used for the Prusa i3 MK3 is called     PrusaControl.

* Slicing: Each 3D printer uses a slicer software, a software where you can import the model file (usually an .stl file) onto a computerized build plate, resize, change up the nozzle and bed temperatures, adjust the infill and precision, and more. The slicer software takes into consideration all your configurations, then "slices" it into a .gcode file, a set of instructions for the x, y, and z dimensions. The 3D printer can read and tell the stepper motors what to do from the set of instructions within the gcode. The slicer software used for the Prusa i3 MK3 is called PrusaControl.

== Training ==

== Training ==

==== Demonstration ====

==== Demonstration ====

The student will need download, setup, and successfully start a print of their choice, providing it is within reason and Prototype Lab guidelines. If possible, they should stay as long as possible in case a print fails, which will be an opportunity to teach them basic troubleshooting of the machine.  

The student will need download, setup, and successfully start a print of their choice, providing it is within reason and follows Prototype Lab guidelines. If possible, they should stay as long as possible in case a print fails, which will be an opportunity to teach them basic troubleshooting of the machine.  

==== General Procedure ====

==== General Procedure ====

Picking a Model:

Setting up a print:

 

# Once you have a model you would like to print (which you can find on either thingiverse or model one yourself), you will be using a software called PrusaControl to slice your .stl files into a .gcode file, which the printer will interpret and print your model from.

Once you have a model you would like to print (which you can find on either thingiverse or model yourself), you will be using a software called PrusaControl to slice your .stl files into a .gcode file, which the printer will interpret and print your model from.

# Open PrusaControl. When you open PrusaControl, it looks like this: [[File:Prusacontroldragon.png|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Prusacontroldragon.png|none|thumb|566x566px]]

 

# At the top, you have your basic toolbar where you can import a file. To do this, click on "File > Import Model File", and you'll be presented with your file system to choose whatever model you have ready.

When you open PrusaControl, it looks like this:

[[File:Prusacontroldragon.png|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Prusacontroldragon.png|left|566x566px|frameless]]

#* To the right is the settings you'll most likely be working with, such as the material, quality, infill, support, and sizing.[[File:Settings.png|none|thumb]]

 

#* On the Prusa's, we currently only use PLA, so we'll always be keeping the Material option as Prusa PLA.

At the top, you have your basic toolbar where you can import a file. To do this, click on "File > Import Model File", and you'll be presented with your filesystem to choose whatever model you have ready.

#* The quality of the print has to do with the size of each individual layer. The finer the quality, the longer the time is to print your model. Almost always you'll want your print to be Optimal quality (0.15mm), since about all prints turn out good with that setting. Talk to a supervisor if you feel like your print needs more definition.

 

#* Next, you'll change the infill. If you don't know how much infill you need, check out the definition of infill above or talk to the supervisor for help. This option will almost always stay at 20% infill.

To the right is the settings you'll most likely be working with, such as the material, quality, infill, support, and sizing.

#* Now we come to support! Support is extra material printed around your model to support tougher geometric angles that the printer can't get to on its own. It is easily torn off at the end of the print.

[[File:Settings.png|frame]]

#* The Brim option is for bed adhesion. You will typically want this option, since it helps prevent the warping of the part you are printing. A brim is most important for prints that have a small surface area that is in contact with the plate.

On the Prusa's, we currently only use PLA, so we'll always be keeping the Material option as Prusa PLA.

# Set the correct object settings.

 

#* Below you will see the object settings! If you click on the model you imported, these settings will highlight so you can change them.[[File:Orientation.png|thumb|none]]

The quality of the print has to do with the size of each individual layer. The finer the quality, the longer the time is to print your model. Almost always you'll want your print to be Optimal quality (0.15mm), since about all prints turn out good with that setting. Talk to a supervisor if you feel like your print needs more definition.

#* In the Position settings, you can adjust where on the printer bed you would like your print to start. Due to automatic bed leveling, the center of the printer bed is always the best place to put your model. If you are printing multiple parts, then arrange everything from the center outwards. You can click and drag your model around and see the change in the X and Y coordinates, and if you need it to be super precise, you can use the keyboard to change the values in the Position settings.

 

#* For the Rotation settings, you want to make sure that the flattest part of the model is the one that is face down on the printer bed. Prusas don't do well with odd geometry and angles (that's a job for the Formlab 2!), so make sure to keep the flat parts of your print on the printer bed.

Next, you'll change the infill. If you don't know how much infill you need, check out the definition of infill above or talk to the supervisor for help. This option will almost always stay at 20% infill.

#* Scale is important, it determines how large you want your print to be. If you modeled your print to specific dimensions, PrusaControl will import it with the correct dimensions, and you can skip this section. If it is too large, you can scale the model down to 70%-90% and see how that affects the size, and vice versa, changing the scale to 110%-130% if need be.

 

#* Place on bed should always be on.

Now we come to support! Support is extra material printed around your model to support tougher geometric angles that the printer can't get to on its own. It is easily torn off at the end of the print.  

# When all those settings are complete, you can click "Generate" in the bottom right corner, and PrusaControl will give you a time and filament estimate for your print. If they seem reasonable, you can save the newly "sliced" .gcode file to the SD card that will go into the printer! If not, you can always go back and adjust the settings to fit your time and/or filament needs.  

 

The Brim option is for bed adhesion. You will typically want this option, since it helps prevent the warping of the part you are printing. A brim is most important for prints that have a small surface area that is in contact with the plate.  

 

[[File:Orientation.png|thumb]]   

 

On the right you will see the object settings! If you click on the model you imported, these settings will highlight so you can change them. In the Position settings, you can adjust where on the printer bed you would like your print to start. Due to automatic bed leveling, the center of the printer bed is always the best place to put your model. If you are printing multiple parts, then arrange everything from the center outwards. You can click and drag your model around and see the change in the X and Y coordinates, and if you need it to be super precise, you can use the keyboard to change the values in the Position settings.  

 

For the Rotation settings, you want to make sure that the flattest part of the model is the one that is face down on the printer bed. Prusas don't do well with odd geometry and angles (that's a job for the Formlab 2!), so make sure to keep the flat parts of your print on the printer bed.  

 

Scale is important, it determines how large you want your print to be. If you modeled your print to specific dimensions, PrusaControl will import it with the correct dimensions, and you can skip this section. If it is too large, you can scale the model down to 70%-90% and see how that affects the size, and vice versa, changing the scale to 110%-130% if need be.

 

Place on bed should always be on.

 

When all those settings are complete, you can click "Generate" in the bottom right corner, and PrusaControl will give you a time and filament estimate for your print. If they seem reasonable, you can save the newly "sliced" .gcode file to the SD card that will go into the printer! If not, you can always go back and adjust the settings to fit your time and/or filament needs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Put the magnetic bed back onto the Prusa, and if there are no more prints needing to be done, power it off.

Loading New Filament:

Loading New Filament:

 

# When the printer runs out of filament, typically you'll want to find a shop aid to help you change the filament.

When the printer runs out of filament, typically you'll want to find a shop aid to help you change the filament. All you need to do is go to the menu, select the "Unload Filament" option, and the printer should start heating up. Once it heats up, it'll unload the filament and you can pull it out of the extruder.

# All you need to do is go to the menu, select the "Unload Filament" option, and the printer should start heating up.

 

# Once it heats up, it'll unload the filament and you can pull it out of the extruder.

As for loading new filament, find the option in the menu labelled "Autoload Filament", and the printer will walk you through the instructions for loading the new spool of filament.

# As for loading new filament, find the option in the menu labelled "Autoload Filament", and the printer will walk you through the instructions for loading the new spool of filament.

 

Pausing or Stopping a Print:

Pausing or Stopping a Print:

 

# To pause a print in the middle of the job, press the knob and it'll pull up a printing menu. There are two options near the bottom, "Stop Print" and "Pause Print". If the print is failing, you definitely want to stop it. If you need to change filament or think you can save the print before it fails anymore, you can pause the print.

To pause a print in the middle of the job, press the knob and it'll pull up a printing menu. There are two options near the bottom, "Stop Print" and "Pause Print". If the print is failing, you definitely want to stop it. If you need to change filament or think you can save the print before it fails anymore, you can pause the print.

 

== Certification ==

== Certification ==

==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====

==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====

{| class="wikitable"

{| class="wikitable"

!Maintenance Procedure

!Maintenance Procedure

!Frequency

!Frequency

!Done By

!Done By

|-

|-

|Wiping Down Buildplate

|Wiping Down Buildplate

|Before every new print

|Before every new print

|Ace

|Student

|-

|-

|Cleaning of Nozzle

|Cleaning of Nozzle

|When needed

|When needed

|Ace

|Ace

|}

|}