Changes

Before dyeing, wipe down your leather piece with a paper towel to remove any dust or contaminants. This will help create an even coat.

Before dyeing, wipe down your leather piece with a paper towel to remove any dust or contaminants. This will help create an even coat.

What is "cutting a dye" and why would I bother doing it?  

What is "cutting a dye" and why would I bother doing it? Cutting a dye reduces its potency by mixing the dye with a dye reducer. This allows you to apply several coats for a smooth and uniform finish. The more coats you do, the smoother your dye is going to look. At the same time, the more coats you do, the darker the finish will be. So, if you achieve the color you want on your first pass of dye but the finish isn't as smooth/uniform as you want, you won’t be able to apply more dye to help even out the finish. Instead, you’ll get a very marbled look... which is ok if that’s what you’re going for. If you don't cut the dye at all, it will be quite concentrated. A little dye will go a long way. Start with super light and thin strokes with the dauber. Avoid drenching your leather workpiece in the dye as this can produce some unwanted results (like your blue dye turning copper-colored). The following procedure assumes you have cut the dye.

I use Fiebings Pro Dye when using an oil based dye and Tandy's Eco-Flo for water based dyes. I like the Pro Dye from Fiebings. Out of everything I’ve used it’s given the most consistent coat, but both work well. I do really suggest cutting it though. If it's an oil dye, Fiebings sells a dye reducer, and if it's a water based dye, you just add water. The more coats you do, the smoother your dye is going to look. So if you achieve the color you want on your first pass of dye, you won’t be able to apply more dye to help even out dye. Instead, you’ll get a very marbled look… which is okay if that’s what you’re going for. As a side note, doing multiple passes of water based dyes will eventually dry out your leather. When you are done dying with water based dyes, it's best to apply some Neatsfoot Oil to put oils back into the leather. Okay, now on to the actually dying process.  

For your first coat (or base coat), apply the dye in a circular motion. This is easily the most important coat. First you’ll dip your dauber, cloth, or sponge into the dye. Start with a very light pressure and slowly increase pressure in your circular motions as the dye absorbs into the leather. Then allow it to dry.

Here are a few tips for applying this coat evenly and consistently.

I always do the first coat in a circular motion. Notice how I start to squeeze the sponge to release more dye as it dries out.  

This is easily the most important coat. First you’ll dip your cloth or sponge into the dye. Now rub it into the dye in circular motion until the leather is covered with dye. Then allow to dry.

When you first set your dauber, cloth, or sponge onto the leather it is going to be loaded up with dye, and if you apply pressure when you first set it onto the leather that one spot is then going to be loaded up with dye. When you first start, apply little to no pressure. As you keep going and less dye is being released from the dauber/cloth/sponge, begin applying more pressure to release an equal amount of dye as before. When the dye starts getting spotty, reload the dauber/cloth/sponge with dye. Basically when the area you just passed over isn’t completely covered in dye, it’s time to get some more. As you dye with circular motion, overlap half of your previous circle with your new circle as you go. Don’t shy away from the edges. Make sure you dye the leather on something you don’t mind getting dye on, because you should be dyeing beyond the edge of the leather. If you treat the edge of the leather like the end of where you should dye, you’ll approach it timidly and the edges will look less dyed than the rest of the project. You can get a piece of cardboard from the low fidelity prototyping station to use as a platform for dyeing in the Finishing Room. Let your base coat dry.

Here’s a few things I’ve learned along the way to applying this coat consistently.

Apply your second and third coats diagonally. The second coat can go back and forth diagonally to the right; the third coat can go back and forth diagonally to the left. Make sure to go beyond the edge of the leather piece for an even coat. Always allow time for drying between coats.

When you first set your cloth or sponge onto the leather it is going to be loaded up with dye, and if apply pressure when you first set it onto the leather that one spot is then going to be loaded up with dye. When you first start apply little to no pressure, as you keep going and less dye is being released from the cloth/sponge begin applying more pressure to release an equal amount of dye as before.

With this 3-coat method, the grain of the leather has been hit with dye from every direction, and there should be no spotty or undyed parts. You can buff the finish with a burnishing cloth once it has dried.

When the dye starts getting spotty, reload the cloth/sponge with dye. Basically when the area you just passed over isn’t completely covered in dye, it’s time to get some more.

Overlap a half at a time. As your dyeing in these circles I usually overlap 1/2 of the previous circle with the new circle. 1/2 isn’t some magic number, it’s just what I do. Whatever you do, make sure you’re consistently doing it with each circle you make.

Don’t shy away from the edges. Make sure you dye the leather on something you don’t mind getting dye on, because you should be dyeing beyond the edge of the leather. If you treat the edge of the leather like the end of where you should dye, you’ll approach it timidly and the edges will look less dyed than the rest of the project.

Once this final coat has dried, you need to put a finish on the leather. If you decide to skip this step, whoever is using the item you made will end up with leather dye on their clothes. This is bad, so use a finish. Fiebing's Tan Kote works well as a finish, which can be purchases as either a gloss of matte finish. This can be applied in one coat; just work it into the leather using the same circular motion from before. Once you’ve worked it in evenly, leave it alone and let it dry. Touching it at all during the drying process will ruin the finish. After the finish has had time to dry, buff it with cotton cloth. Finally, the dyeing and finishing process is complete!

 

 

 

 

Once this final coat has dried, you need to put a finish on the leather. If you decided to skip this step, whoever is using the item you made will end up with dye on their clothes. This is bad, so use a finish. I use Fibbing’s Tan Kote, which can be purchases as either a gloss of matte finish. This can be applied in one coat, and I just work it into the leather using the same circular motion from before. Once you’ve worked it in evenly, leave it alone and let it dry. Touching it at all during the drying process will ruin the finish. After the finish has had time to dry, buff it with cotton cloth.

 

Dyeing and finishing process complete!

 

 

==Safety==

==Safety==