Changes

== Electronics ==

== Electronics ==

Our electronics will use an [https://www.arduino.cc/ Arduino] microcontroller. Specifically, the stalwart [https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-uno-rev3 | Arduino UNO Rev3]. On top of this, we will use a [https://www.adafruit.com/product/196 | Proto-Screw Shield] from [https://www.adafruit.com/ | Adafruit].

The electronics are all about controlling the red, green, and blue intensities on an RGB LED strip - likely in some sort of fade pattern. Our specific RGB Led strip lights are rated at 12V, therefore, we will use a 12V transformer as an input. We will use an [https://www.arduino.cc/ Arduino] microcontroller. Specifically, the stalwart [https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-uno-rev3 | Arduino UNO Rev3].   We need to add three power transistors to the Arduino to be able to deliver adequate power to the red, green, and blue LEDs of the led strip. Therefore, we will use the [https://www.adafruit.com/product/196 | Proto-Screw Shield] from [https://www.adafruit.com/ | Adafruit].

Our system will be driving 12V led strips directly from the  power transformer input. You should not use a transformer significantly different than 12V. The circuit is show below as a [https://fritzing.org/home/ fritzing] breadboard diagram (click it to enlarge). You can also download an easier to read [[Media:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing.pdf|pdf]] or the original [[Media:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing.fzz|fritzing file]].

Program the Arduino ==

== Assemble the Proto-Screw Shield ==

=== Test the Arduino IDE using standard programs ===

Assembly of the shield is straightforward. Directions are given at the [https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-proto-screw-shield/intro|Adafruit site]. There is no need to connect the LED's and resistors on the proto-shield. We will not be using them, and they will not be visible within our lamp. So, all you really need to assemble are the screw terminals (and the reset buttons is fine as well - doesn't hurt anything to have it, but it is sort of hard to press inside of the lamp).

Verify using the printouts

=== Solder together the screw shield circuit ===

=== Program the Arduino ===

You will want to use solid-core wire for the point-to-point connections on the board. These will hold their position, and fit easily through the holes in the protoboard. To connect to the screw terminals, use the stranded wire. It is much more flexible and will greatly reduce the risk that you break a wire when inserting or removing the system.

 

== Assemble the Proto-Screw Shield ==

Our system will be driving 12V led strips directly from this power line. You should not use a transformer significantly different than 12V. The circuit is show below as a [https://fritzing.org/home/ fritzing] breadboard diagram (click it to enlarge). You can also download an easier to read [[Media:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing.pdf|pdf]] or the original [[Media:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing.fzz|fritzing file]].

The Input wires connect the external components to the screw terminals. The input power jack connects from the center terminal (power) to one end of the power switch. The other end of the power switch connects to the VIN of the Arduino system. The ground of the power jack must be connected to the GND of the Arduino system. The potentiometers should have their "low-side" tied together and then connected to the Arduino GND. They should also have their "high-side" tied together and then connected to the Arduino 5V regulated power. The wiper of each potentiometer should then be connected to A0 and A1 respectively. If hooked up "correctly," when the potentiometer is all the way "on," the wiper should be connected to the "high" side. Now, what constitutes "on" is left up to you. If these are hooked up incorrectly, then the wiper can be inverted in software as a simple fix.

[[Image:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing_circuit.png|x500px]]

The output system serves to drive the LED lights and consists of the internal wires on the shield. These lights will be connected to a 4-pin terminal in the center of your board. This terminal has power (white or black wire) and then wires for green, red, and blue signals. The power comes directly from the VIN pin ('''not''' the 5V pin). Each of the green, red, and blue signals is connected to a "low-side" MOSFET switch. The source of the MOSFET's are connected to GND, the drain is connected to the appropriate pin on the 4-pin header, and the gates are connected to pins 3 (green), 10 (red), and 11 (blue).  

=== Solder the transistors and wires onto the shield ===

==Program the Arduino ==

==== Inputs ====

=== Test the Arduino IDE using standard programs ===

==== Outputs ====

=== Program the Arduino to read in the A/D values ===

The rest of the system serves to drive the LED lights. These lights will be connected to a 4-pin terminal in the center of your board. This terminal has power (white or black wire) and then wires for green, red, and blue signals. The power comes directly from the VIN pin ('''not''' the 5V pin). Each of the green, red, and blue signals is connected to a "low-side" MOSFET switch. The source of the MOSFET's are connected to GND, the drain is connected to the appropriate pin on the 4-pin header, and the gates are connected to pins 3 (green), 10 (red), and 11 (blue).

 

=== Program the Arduino ===

== Create the