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| When all those settings are complete, you can click "Generate" in the bottom right corner, and PrusaControl will give you a time and filament estimate for your print. If they seem reasonable, you can save the newly "sliced" .gcode file to the SD card that will go into the printer! If not, you can always go back and adjust the settings to fit your time and/or filament needs. | | When all those settings are complete, you can click "Generate" in the bottom right corner, and PrusaControl will give you a time and filament estimate for your print. If they seem reasonable, you can save the newly "sliced" .gcode file to the SD card that will go into the printer! If not, you can always go back and adjust the settings to fit your time and/or filament needs. |
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− | Once you have the gcode file on the SD card, put the SD card into the Prusa (on the left side of the orange menu), and turn the printer on. The printer will read the SD card and initialize itself, then you can start. In the menu, there is an option you want called "Print from SD Card". That will take you to a list of all the .gcode files on the SD card. Search until you find your own, and select it. | + | ==== Starting A Print ==== |
| + | Once you have the gcode file on the SD card, put the SD card into the Prusa (on the left side of the orange menu), and turn the printer on. The printer will read the SD card and initialize itself, then you can start. In the menu, there is an option you want called "Print from SD Card". That will take you to a list of all the .gcode files on the SD card. Search until you find your own, and select it. Make sure there is enough filament on the printer for your print, or it will fail midway! |
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− | Naturally, the printer will set itself up for PLA settings, which is approximately 215°C for the extruder, and 60°C for the heated bed. This will take a few minutes. The printer will then test the bed leveling, and begin the print. | + | Naturally, the printer will set itself up for PLA settings, which is approximately 215°C for the extruder, and 60°C for the heated bed. This will take a few minutes. Often filament will start oozing out of the nozzle once it is fully heated, but don't worry, the printer will clean off the filament after calibration. Make sure that there are no filament strings attached to the nozzle as the print is starting. |
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− | - watching the print (brim, speed, support, 30%)
| + | For smaller prints, you want to make sure to watch the print until it is around 30% completion, which is given on the menu screen as the Prusa is printing. For bigger prints, it takes a longer time to get to 30%, so it is recommended to watch it until 10%-15% completion. If the print contains a lot of support, it is wise not to run it overnight, since lots of support on certain prints can cause failure more easily. |
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− | - what to do if it fails (brim comes off, nozzle drags print around, etc) | |
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− | - finishing a print
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| + | ==== Finishing A Print ==== |
| - loading new filament | | - loading new filament |
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| - pausing or stopping a print | | - pausing or stopping a print |
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− | == Troubleshooting == | + | == Common Print Failures == |
| + | Here are some ways your print can fail in the beginning, and how to troubleshoot it: |
| + | * '''Brim is pulled off of bed and dragged around by the nozzle:''' If it's just starting the brim of the print and having trouble adhering to the bed, you can pull off the first few rounds of the brim and let the print continue. Sometimes the outer part of the brim has more trouble adhering than the inner parts. If it continues to fail, stop the print. Make sure you have the best orientation possible for your part, make sure the nozzle of the printer is clean, and try starting the print again. If it continues to fail, find a supervisor to help you. |
| + | * '''Parts of the print detach mid-print:''' Stop the print. Often if parts of the print detach from the model it is due to failure to adhere to support. Ask a supervisor if the geometry of your part is too complex for the Prusas. If not, adjust the sizing, change around some support settings, and try the print again. If it continues to fail, try to break the part into smaller prints and assemble them when done. |
| + | * '''Extruded filament is too thin/not adhering to layers OR Filament will not come out of nozzle:''' When the filament is too thin or not coming out, there is often a blockage or small piece of filament in the extruder. Ask a supervisor for help. |
| + | * '''Print will not adhere to bed:''' If your 3D print will not adhere to the bed after lots of tries, the last resort can be some glue stick. For trickier prints with small bases, sometimes this is the trick. Always make sure you try the brim option before using the glue stick on the printer. When the print is finished, clean off the printer bed. |
| + | * '''Support fails:''' If the support gets really stringy as the print continues and in turn fails the print, see if you can have a supervisor help you change the density of the support. Double check that the printer is not shaking too much as you print your model. If you still don't know what to do after your print fails, ask a supervisor. |
| + | * '''First layer of print warps:''' If the first layer of your print warps and affects the rest of your print, lower the bed temperature, and start the print again. If it continues to warp, try adding some adhesive on the printer bed. |
| + | If your issue is not found here, ask the supervisor for help, or you can research on this website: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#section-fdm-3d-printing-problems-my-print-failed |
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| + | == Troubleshooting Errors == |
| * failed calibration | | * failed calibration |
| * crash detected | | * crash detected |
− | * debris on nozzle
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