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== Bill of Materials ==
 
== Bill of Materials ==
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[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15U8mSvatrKNHKqPu6eNVy3LgCc526ikXjzVWxL_AvPo/edit#gid=0| Parts List ]
    
== Create the wooden "heels" and "slices" ==
 
== Create the wooden "heels" and "slices" ==
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=== Route the shelf ===
 
=== Route the shelf ===
Perform the pocket cut 1/8" deep. This requires the initial pocket cut over the entire region, followed by an inside cut to clean up the pocket cut. The system automatically stays slightly off of the line during the pocket cut as the edge is not as clean when large amounts of wood are being removed. Hence, the inside cut to clean.
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Perform the pocket cut 1/8" deep. This requires the initial pocket cut over the entire region, followed by an inside cut to clean up the pocket cut. The system automatically stays slightly off of the line during the pocket cut as the edge is not as clean when large amounts of wood are being removed. Hence, the inside cut to clean. You will want to offset the cut slightly (1/16"? - need to verify again) to make the insertion of the faceplate easier.
    
=== Route the hole ===
 
=== Route the hole ===
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* 4 Legs
 
* 4 Legs
 
* 1 Table
 
* 1 Table
* 2 Extension cylinders
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* 3 Extension cylinders
    
[[Image:TV_Mood_Lamp_LED_legs.png|x300px]]
 
[[Image:TV_Mood_Lamp_LED_legs.png|x300px]]
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== Electronics ==
 
== Electronics ==
 
The electronics are all about controlling the red, green, and blue intensities on an RGB LED strip - likely in some sort of fade pattern. Our specific RGB Led strip lights are rated at 12V, therefore, we will use a 12V transformer as an input. We will use an [https://www.arduino.cc/ Arduino] microcontroller. Specifically, the stalwart [https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-uno-rev3 | Arduino UNO Rev3].  We need to add three power transistors to the Arduino to be able to deliver adequate power to the red, green, and blue LEDs of the led strip. Therefore, we will use the [https://www.adafruit.com/product/196 | Proto-Screw Shield] from [https://www.adafruit.com/ | Adafruit].
 
The electronics are all about controlling the red, green, and blue intensities on an RGB LED strip - likely in some sort of fade pattern. Our specific RGB Led strip lights are rated at 12V, therefore, we will use a 12V transformer as an input. We will use an [https://www.arduino.cc/ Arduino] microcontroller. Specifically, the stalwart [https://store.arduino.cc/usa/arduino-uno-rev3 | Arduino UNO Rev3].  We need to add three power transistors to the Arduino to be able to deliver adequate power to the red, green, and blue LEDs of the led strip. Therefore, we will use the [https://www.adafruit.com/product/196 | Proto-Screw Shield] from [https://www.adafruit.com/ | Adafruit].
Our system will be driving 12V led strips directly from the  power transformer input. You should not use a transformer significantly different than 12V. The circuit is show below as a [https://fritzing.org/home/ fritzing] breadboard diagram (click it to enlarge). You can also download an easier to read [[Media:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing.pdf|pdf]] or the original [[Media:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing.fzz|fritzing file]].
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Our system will be driving 12V led strips directly from the  power transformer input. You should not use a transformer significantly different than 12V. The circuit is shown below as a [https://fritzing.org/home/ fritzing] breadboard diagram (click it to enlarge). You can also download an easier to read [[Media:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing.pdf|pdf]] or the original [[Media:TV_Mood_Lamp_fritzing.fzz|fritzing file]].
    
=== Assemble the Proto-Screw Shield ===
 
=== Assemble the Proto-Screw Shield ===
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The output system serves to drive the LED lights and consists of the internal wires on the shield. These lights will be connected to a 4-pin terminal in the center of your board. This terminal has power (white or black wire) and then wires for green, red, and blue signals. The power comes directly from the VIN pin ('''not''' the 5V pin). Each of the green, red, and blue signals is connected to a "low-side" MOSFET switch. The source of the MOSFET's are connected to GND, the drain is connected to the appropriate pin on the 4-pin header, and the gates are connected to pins 3 (green), 10 (red), and 11 (blue).  
 
The output system serves to drive the LED lights and consists of the internal wires on the shield. These lights will be connected to a 4-pin terminal in the center of your board. This terminal has power (white or black wire) and then wires for green, red, and blue signals. The power comes directly from the VIN pin ('''not''' the 5V pin). Each of the green, red, and blue signals is connected to a "low-side" MOSFET switch. The source of the MOSFET's are connected to GND, the drain is connected to the appropriate pin on the 4-pin header, and the gates are connected to pins 3 (green), 10 (red), and 11 (blue).  
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HOW TO SOLDER ON A PROTOBOARD
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When soldering solid core wires onto prototype boards, you generally want to connect them to a component that is also soldered into the board. The easiest way to do this is to put the wire through a hole adjacent to the component lead, and then bend the wire over horizontally so that it is basically touching the lead. To accomplish this you will need to strip the wire a little longer to allow enough wire for the journey. Journey? Sure ... journey.
    
=== Testing the shield wiring ===
 
=== Testing the shield wiring ===

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