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  |Has ace=Kyler Howard;khoward19@georgefox.edu  

  |Has ace=Dane Ziegler;dziegler22@georgefox.edu

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==Safety==

==Safety First==

[[File:Safety First Red.png|left|120px]]

[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]

* Do not laser cut chrome-tanned leather; this will produce toxic fumes (cyanide gas). Only vegetable-tanned leather is ok to laser cut. If you don't know which type of leather you are using, check with the Maker Hub staff before using the laser cutters.

* Do not laser cut chrome-tanned leather; this will produce toxic fumes (cyanide gas). Only vegetable-tanned leather is ok to laser cut. If you don't know which type of leather you are using, check with the Maker Hub staff before using the laser cutters.

* You must wear safety glasses when performing any type of hammering at the leatherworking station. Anyone else within a 6-foot radius of you should put on safety glasses too.

* You must wear safety glasses when performing any type of hammering at the leatherworking station. Anyone else within a 6-foot radius of you should put on safety glasses too.

* Apply leather dyes in the finishing room to minimize breathing their vapors.

* Apply leather dyes and finishes in the finishing room to minimize breathing their vapors.

* Remember that there are many sharp and pointy tools at the leatherworking station that are specifically designed to cut and puncture cow skin. If it can cut/puncture cow skin, it can certainly cut/puncture your skin. Treat the tools with respect, and exercise good judgment when cutting and puncturing to keep yourself out of the tool's path.

* Remember that there are many sharp and pointy tools at the leatherworking station that are specifically designed to cut and puncture cow skin. If it can cut/puncture cow skin, it can certainly cut/puncture your skin. Treat the tools with respect, and exercise good judgment when cutting and puncturing to keep yourself out of the tool's path.

For an excellent explanation on the differences between vegetable-tanned leather and chrome-tanned leather, watch [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6D3TrHqhJHw| this video from Gentleman's Gazette].

For an excellent explanation on the differences between vegetable-tanned leather and chrome-tanned leather, watch [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6D3TrHqhJHw| this video from Gentleman's Gazette].

 

'''Awl''' - An awl is a tool with a metal point used for marking, piercing, punching, or sewing leather.

'''Awl''' - An awl is a tool with a metal point used for marking, piercing, punching, or sewing leather.

'''Leather Dye''' - Leather dye will stain your vegetable-tanned leather. We have a variety of colors available.

'''Leather Dye''' - Leather dye will stain your vegetable-tanned leather. We have a variety of colors available.

'''Edge Beveler''' - An edge beveler is a tool with a metal blade that is used to remove the square corners from the edges of leather goods.

'''Edge Beveler''' - An edge beveler is a tool with a sharpened metal notch that is used to remove the square corners from the edges of leather goods.

'''End Punch''' - An end punch is used to cut smooth and clean tips on belts and straps up to 2" wide.

'''End Punch''' - An end punch is used to cut smooth and clean tips on belts and straps up to 2" wide.

File:Thread6.jpg|Slide the knot to the top of the eye, and now you are ready to stitch

File:Thread6.jpg|Slide the knot to the top of the eye, and now you are ready to stitch

</gallery>

</gallery>

'''Burnishing''' the edges of your leather will give your project a finished, professional look. Burnishing finishes the edges by melting the loose fibers together with heat created through friction. Basically, that just means you rub the edges with a wood burnisher or burnishing cloth until it looks good. A simple burnishing process includes: beveling the edges, sanding them, dyeing them, burnishing them, and then finishing the edge with glycerin soap or wax.

'''Burnishing''' the edges of your leather will give your project a finished, professional look. Burnishing finishes the edges by melting the loose fibers together with heat created through friction. Basically, that just means you rub the edges with a wood burnisher or burnishing cloth until it looks good. A simple burnishing process includes: beveling the edges, sanding them, dyeing them, burnishing them, and then finishing the edge with glycerin soap or wax.

Now, it’s time to actually burnish. To do this, dip your finger in water and lightly wet the edges. Make sure not to soak the edges though. Leather becomes very pliable when soaked and can be molded. This is great for other things, but not so much when your burnishing. Once you’ve put water on the edges, rub a wood burnisher or burnishing cloth across it briskly until the edges start to darken and shine. You’ll know you’re done when you start to hear a tacky sound.

Now, it’s time to actually burnish. To do this, dip your finger in water and lightly wet the edges. Make sure not to soak the edges though. Leather becomes very pliable when soaked and can be molded. This is great for other things, but not so much when your burnishing. Once you’ve put water on the edges, rub a wood burnisher or burnishing cloth across it briskly until the edges start to darken and shine. You’ll know you’re done when you start to hear a tacky sound.

And finally, apply some glycerin soap or wax to the edge. This helps keep the leather water-resistant and seals the edges. After applying the glycerin soap or wax, buff the edges again with burnishing cloth.

And finally, apply some glycerin soap or wax to the edge. This helps keep the leather water-resistant and seals the edges. After applying the glycerin soap or wax, buff the edges again with a burnishing cloth.

'''Dyeing Leather''' is tricky. Getting a nice even coat of dye on leather takes not only the know how, but also the skill that comes with lots and lots of practice. There are many different ways to dye leather. Here is one recommended method.

'''Dyeing Leather''' is tricky. Getting a nice even coat of dye on leather takes not only the know how, but also the skill that comes with lots and lots of practice. There are many different ways to dye leather. Here is one recommended method.

You can dye any unfinished vegetable-tanned leather. In fact, you can probably dye pre-dyed veg tanned leather... but why? Just be aware that there are waxes on top of finished leathers that will not allow the dye to penetrate the leather well. Regardless of your skills with dyeing, be aware that dyeing often reveals various marks and inconsistencies in the leather grain.

You can dye any unfinished vegetable-tanned leather. In fact, you can probably dye pre-dyed veg tanned leather... but why? Just be aware that there are waxes on top of finished leathers that will not allow the dye to penetrate the leather well. Regardless of your skills with dyeing, be aware that dyeing often reveals various marks and inconsistencies in the leather grain.

Before dyeing, wipe down your leather piece with a paper towel to remove any dust or contaminants. This will help create an even coat.

Before dyeing, wipe down your leather piece with a cloth or paper towel to remove any dust or contaminants. This will help create an even coat.

What is "cutting a dye" and why would I bother doing it? Cutting a dye reduces its potency by mixing the dye with a dye reducer. This allows you to apply several coats for a smooth and uniform finish. The more coats you do, the smoother your dye is going to look. At the same time, the more coats you do, the darker the finish will be. So, if you achieve the color you want on your first pass of dye but the finish isn't as smooth/uniform as you want, you won’t be able to apply more dye to help even out the finish. Instead, you’ll get a very marbled look... which is ok if that’s what you’re going for. If you don't cut the dye at all, it will be quite concentrated. A little dye will go a long way. Start with super light and thin strokes with the dauber. Avoid drenching your leather workpiece in the dye as this can produce some unwanted results (like your blue dye turning copper-colored). The following procedure assumes you have cut the dye.

What is "cutting a dye" and why would I bother doing it? Cutting a dye reduces its potency by mixing the dye with a dye reducer. This allows you to apply several coats for a smooth and uniform finish. The more coats you do, the smoother your dye is going to look. At the same time, the more coats you do, the darker the finish will be. So, if you achieve the color you want on your first pass of dye but the finish isn't as smooth/uniform as you want, you won’t be able to apply more dye to help even out the finish. Instead, you’ll get a very marbled look... which is ok if that’s what you’re going for. If you don't cut the dye at all, it will be quite concentrated. A little dye will go a long way. Start with super light and thin strokes with the dauber. Avoid drenching your leather workpiece in the dye as this can produce some unwanted results (like your blue dye turning copper-colored). The following procedure assumes you have cut the dye.

With this 3-coat method, the grain of the leather has been hit with dye from every direction, and there should be no spotty or undyed parts. You can buff the finish with a burnishing cloth once it has dried.

With this 3-coat method, the grain of the leather has been hit with dye from every direction, and there should be no spotty or undyed parts. You can buff the finish with a burnishing cloth once it has dried.

Once this final coat has dried, you need to put a finish on the leather. If you decide to skip this step, whoever is using the item you made will end up with leather dye on their clothes. This is bad, so use a finish. Fiebing's Tan Kote works well as a finish, which can be purchases as either a gloss of matte finish. This can be applied in one coat; just work it into the leather using the same circular motion from before. Once you’ve worked it in evenly, leave it alone and let it dry. Touching it at all during the drying process will ruin the finish. After the finish has had time to dry, buff it with cotton cloth. Finally, the dyeing and finishing process is complete!

Once this final coat has dried, you need to put a finish on the leather. If you decide to skip this step, whoever is using the item you made will end up with leather dye on their clothes. This is bad, so use a finish. While a finish won't completely prevent dye rub off, it will greatly reduce it when applied to the leather properly. Fiebing's Tan Kote works well as a finish, which can be purchases as either a gloss of matte finish. This can be applied in one coat; just work it into the leather using the same circular motion from before. Once you’ve worked it in evenly, leave it alone and let it dry. Touching it at all during the drying process will ruin the finish. After the finish has had time to dry, buff it with a cotton cloth. Finally, the dyeing and finishing process is complete!

==Certification==

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1261 Canvas Quiz]

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==

==Maintenance==

====General maintenance====

====General maintenance====

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====

!Done By

!Done By

|-

|-

|Sample

|Lubricate the Manual Sewing Machine

|Sample

|Yearly

|Sample

|Maker Hub Technician

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