Difference between revisions of "Speedy 400"
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Description here. | Description here. | ||
| − | The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' | + | The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is Zach Cogswell: ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}. |
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Essentially the same as [[Speedy 300]]. The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. | Essentially the same as [[Speedy 300]]. The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. | ||
| − | '''NOTE:''' Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic**. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad) | + | '''NOTE:''' Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic'''**'''. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad) |
| − | + | '''**''' If you know what you are doing and are very careful, small (<10 inches) pieces of 1/4" or 1/8" acrylic allow for sufficient airflow to avoid catching fire. Small pieces of 1/2" acrylic can often work as well, as long as you are careful. If the fumes light fire while cutting, pause the print IMMEDIATELY (the same button as start), or, if needed, stop it entirely (although this will abort the cut and you will not be able to continue). Often pausing allows the fire to go out and the acrylic to cool down, so for small cuts you may be able to continue, carefully, after pausing. If you must cut large sheets of acrylic, remove the paper from the area you are cutting, as close to the size of your cut as possible. Although it is not the paper that is burning, removing it seems to reduce the possibility of fire. Try not to remove any more paper than absolutely necessary, as the paper keeps the acrylic clean and protected from scratches when in the stock pile. | |
== Training == | == Training == | ||
See [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/Speedy_300#Training Speedy 300 Training] | See [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/Speedy_300#Training Speedy 300 Training] | ||
Revision as of 13:34, 24 October 2019
Description here.
The current Ace of the Speedy 400 is Zach Cogswell: ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu Jack Sides jsides22@georgefox.edu.
Documentation
Essentially the same as Speedy 300. The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences.
NOTE: Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic**. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad)
** If you know what you are doing and are very careful, small (<10 inches) pieces of 1/4" or 1/8" acrylic allow for sufficient airflow to avoid catching fire. Small pieces of 1/2" acrylic can often work as well, as long as you are careful. If the fumes light fire while cutting, pause the print IMMEDIATELY (the same button as start), or, if needed, stop it entirely (although this will abort the cut and you will not be able to continue). Often pausing allows the fire to go out and the acrylic to cool down, so for small cuts you may be able to continue, carefully, after pausing. If you must cut large sheets of acrylic, remove the paper from the area you are cutting, as close to the size of your cut as possible. Although it is not the paper that is burning, removing it seems to reduce the possibility of fire. Try not to remove any more paper than absolutely necessary, as the paper keeps the acrylic clean and protected from scratches when in the stock pile.