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Line 207: − + − − == Documentation == − Essentially the same as [[Speedy 300]]. The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. − − '''NOTE:''' Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic'''**'''. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad) − − '''**''' If you know what you are doing and are very careful, small (<10 inches) pieces of 1/4" or 1/8" acrylic allow for sufficient airflow to avoid catching fire. Small pieces of 1/2" acrylic can often work as well, as long as you are careful. If the fumes light fire while cutting, pause the print IMMEDIATELY (the same button as start), or, if needed, stop it entirely (although this will abort the cut and you will not be able to continue). Often pausing allows the fire to go out and the acrylic to cool down, so for small cuts you may be able to continue, carefully, after pausing. If you must cut large sheets of acrylic, remove the paper from the area you are cutting, as close to the size of your cut as possible. Although it is not the paper that is burning, removing it seems to reduce the possibility of fire. Try not to remove any more paper than absolutely necessary, as the paper keeps the acrylic clean and protected from scratches when in the stock pile.
Grammar. fixed plural (replaced "there is" with "there are")
{{#set:
{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is laser cutter equipment=True
|Is laser cutter equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png
|Has icon=File:Speedy400_Laser.png
|Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon
|Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon
|Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png
|Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Speedy 400.png
|Has image=File:Speedy 400.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 400 Laser Engraver
|Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 400 Laser Engraver
|Has description=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1212
|Has make=Trotec
|Has make=Trotec
|Has model=Speedy 400
|Has model=Speedy 400
|Has ace= Zach Cogswell: zcogswell18@GeorgeFox.edu
|Has serial number=S4-2209 / 01422-11690
|Has ace= Zach Cogswell;zcogswell18@GeorgeFox.edu
}}
}}
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Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}
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__TOC__
__TOC__
==Description==
==Description==
The Trotec Speedy 400 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. The working area of the laser is 24" x 29". This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.
The Trotec Speedy 400 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. The working area of the laser is 40" x 24". This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCwJ8xWRpIE}}
==Documentation==
==Documentation==
The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. Should be able to train on either the 300 or 400 and use both machines.
NOTE: Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic**. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad)
** If you know what you are doing and are very careful, small (<10 inches) pieces of 1/4" or 1/8" acrylic allow for sufficient airflow to avoid catching fire. Small pieces of 1/2" acrylic can often work as well, as long as you are careful. If the fumes light fire while cutting, pause the print IMMEDIATELY (the same button as start), or, if needed, stop it entirely (although this will abort the cut and you will not be able to continue). Often pausing allows the fire to go out and the acrylic to cool down, so for small cuts you may be able to continue, carefully, after pausing. If you must cut large sheets of acrylic, remove the paper from the area you are cutting, as close to the size of your cut as possible. Although it is not the paper that is burning, removing it seems to reduce the possibility of fire. Try not to remove any more paper than absolutely necessary, as the paper keeps the acrylic clean and protected from scratches when in the stock pile.
====Terminology====
====Terminology====
* Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.
* Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.
==== [https://www.troteclaser.com/fileadmin/content/images/Contact_Support/Manuals/Speedy-400-Manual-EN.pdf User Manual] ====
====Manuals====
* '''[[Media:JobControl-Manual-EN.pdf|Job Control Operation Manual]]'''
* '''[[Media:Speedy-400-Manual-EN.pdf|Speedy 400 Operation Manual]]'''
==Training==
==Training==
====Overview====
====Operation====
Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] > [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.
Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. When you use SolidWorks to generate a .dxf file the correct face must be selected prior to saving the file. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] > [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.
====Demonstration====
====Demonstration====
* Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.
* Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.
* Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.
* Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.
* If you feel unsure about anything located in the laser cutting procedure make sure to consult the supervisor for assistance.
==Cut List==
===Approved Materials===
* Acrylic
* Wood
* Vegetable tanned leather
===DO NOT CUT===
* Any plastics containing PVC (polyvinyl chloride)
* Chrome tanned leather
If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.
==Certification==
==Certification==
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/mod/quiz/view.php?id=810036 Foxtale Course]
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1223 Canvas Course]
==Troubleshooting==
==Troubleshooting==
'''First of all, check your export settings'''
* There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistantly: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to File > Document Properties (or press Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File > Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.
'''Cuts are not being made'''
* Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting.
* Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended)
* Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape.
* In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter.
'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''
* Are you using the correct material profile? If not, rest the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below)
* You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting.
* If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu
'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''
* You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL! You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly.
'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''
* Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.
* Are you importing from SolidWorks? For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.
'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''
* Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts.
* Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''
'''Cuts are not clean'''
* Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it.
* Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it.
'''The material is being cut in unintended places'''
* Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want
* Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them
*
==Maintenance==
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
====General maintenance====
To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There is also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.
To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There are also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
|}
|}
# The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.
# The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.
# The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). The lense should be cleaned with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.
# The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). First use the air bulb to blow any dust off of the lense, prior to cleaning with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.
# See above.
# See above.
# The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter. This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter, additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.
# The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter. This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter, additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.