Difference between revisions of "Hand Router"
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| − | The hand router is very versatile and can accommodate 2 different cutter shank diameters. | + | The hand router is very versatile and can accommodate 2 different cutter shank diameters. Both the 1/4" and 1/2" shank require their own specific collet. The collet is removed by unscrewing the collet clamping nut and removing the collet. The collet is located near the cutter so it tends to collect a large amount of wood dust. It's important to always clean out the collet and collet housing so the spring clamping action of the collet works properly. It is also very important to have the proper amount of cutter shank engagement into the collet. A cutter shank that is not installed deep enough into the collet could come loose or even damage the collet. You should have at least 1/2" engagement of the shank into the collet. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not cut materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the blade and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. |
| − | If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the | + | If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the router itself. When setting up the router height, it should protrude no more than 1/4" above the material top. This limits the amount of blade that is exposed and makes for a good cut. You will also want to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the rear of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the table saw to help keep the dust out of the air. As you make a cut, it is imperative that you keep the wood firmly against the fence to make the cut square. Therefore, you should double check to see if you are reading the right measurement on the fence, especially because the fence can be moved to either side of the blade which is why there are two distance indicators, only one of which is correct for each set up. Make sure to ask the supervisor about the available jigs because they can be helpful for specialty cuts. Once the supervisor has demonstrated the use of a jig feel free to use it in the future but do not play around with jigs you are unfamiliar with. |
After the saw is set up you are ready to cut. Turn on the saw and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the blade. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished unless there is an emergency, in which case, carefully use one hand or your hip to bump the off switch. Also not let go of your work piece during the cut or it will be forced back towards you. | After the saw is set up you are ready to cut. Turn on the saw and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the blade. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished unless there is an emergency, in which case, carefully use one hand or your hip to bump the off switch. Also not let go of your work piece during the cut or it will be forced back towards you. | ||
Revision as of 12:32, 6 November 2019
Make: Porter Cable
Model: 8902
Ace: Needed (Makerhub@georgefox.edu).
Location: Wood Shop
Description
The hand router is very versatile but can also be a very dangerous tool if not used properly. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.
Introductory Video]
Introductory Video]
About Direction of Cut]
Documentation
Terminology
Each bit is made for a different job. The wood shop has a wide assortment, although less common types may be unavailable. It should be noted that different bit sizes and profiles will operate better at different speeds. The amount of material the is being removed in each pass as well as the hardness of the wood should determine the speed the router is ran at. With reference to straight bits, if the bit is less than 1" in diameter, many recommend speeds near 24,000 rpm. For bits 1" - 2.5", 16,000 to 18,000 rpm, 2.5" to 3", 12,000 to 14,000 rpm, and for bits of more than 3", a common recommendation is 10,000 to 12,000 rpm.
Occasionally routing can leave burn marks on the workpiece. This usually means that the bit in the router has become dull, let a shop supervisor know if a bit seems dull. Sometimes the burning is due to build up of resin and other gunk (a technical term) on the back of the blade insulating the bit and allowing for heat to build up, make sure to keep bits clean. A final possible cause of burning wood while routing is taking passes that are too slow or setting the router bit speed too high.
Training
Operation
The hand router is very versatile and can accommodate 2 different cutter shank diameters. Both the 1/4" and 1/2" shank require their own specific collet. The collet is removed by unscrewing the collet clamping nut and removing the collet. The collet is located near the cutter so it tends to collect a large amount of wood dust. It's important to always clean out the collet and collet housing so the spring clamping action of the collet works properly. It is also very important to have the proper amount of cutter shank engagement into the collet. A cutter shank that is not installed deep enough into the collet could come loose or even damage the collet. You should have at least 1/2" engagement of the shank into the collet. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not cut materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the blade and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard.
If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the router itself. When setting up the router height, it should protrude no more than 1/4" above the material top. This limits the amount of blade that is exposed and makes for a good cut. You will also want to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the rear of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the table saw to help keep the dust out of the air. As you make a cut, it is imperative that you keep the wood firmly against the fence to make the cut square. Therefore, you should double check to see if you are reading the right measurement on the fence, especially because the fence can be moved to either side of the blade which is why there are two distance indicators, only one of which is correct for each set up. Make sure to ask the supervisor about the available jigs because they can be helpful for specialty cuts. Once the supervisor has demonstrated the use of a jig feel free to use it in the future but do not play around with jigs you are unfamiliar with.
After the saw is set up you are ready to cut. Turn on the saw and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the blade. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished unless there is an emergency, in which case, carefully use one hand or your hip to bump the off switch. Also not let go of your work piece during the cut or it will be forced back towards you.
Demonstration
Demonstrate you can safely setup the hand router/tooling. You will need to chamfer or round over an edge of material. Remember to always unplug the router when changing tools or making adjustments to prevent an accidental turn on situation. The direction of travel is also important when making cuts to prevent tearing out corners and edges. Use router bits with bearings to help guide the cutter. Never attempt to free hand a cut without a guide for the router to follow as this can lead to the router running away out of control.
General Procedure
Edge Chamfer
1. The material you are cutting needs to be free from nails or foreign objects. The material should be at least 1/2" thick.
2. Make sure the material is secured. You can use clamps, double sided tape, or bench pucks. Material that is not secure will move and create a hazard.
3. Select the type of router bit you wish to use. Make sure the bit has a bearing guide.
4. Verify the router is unplugged and place the router upside down on the bench.
5. Select the 1/2" or 1/4" collet needed for the appropriate bit.
6. Install the router bit into the collet at least 3/4" Always make sure the collet is clean before inserting a bit to prevent poor clamping issue.
7. Firmly lock the tool down using the router wrench. The nut will squeeze the collet down onto the router bit shank. You will need to use the spindle nut wrench and the spindle lock button.
8. Position the router onto your material. Loosen the spindle depth lock. Adjust the height of cutter engagement as desired and lock the spindle depth lock.
9. Make sure the power switch is in the OFF position. Verify the router cutter is clear and place the router on its side. Proceed to plug in the router.
10. Only handle the router with both hands on the handles. Move the router onto your material. Make sure the cutter does NOT make contact.
11. Turn on the power switch and let the router get up to speed. Slowly feed the cutter into the material until the bearing makes contact with the material edge. Keep the guide plate flat on your material and slowly feed the router along the edge. If you travel too slow the wood will start to burn. Traveling too fast will produce a poor cut. Be careful to keep the router from tilting when traveling along the edge and especially while traveling around a corner.
12. Power off the router after making your cut. Let the spindle stop turning before moving the router away from the work piece.
13. Place the router on its side and unplug the router to prevent an accidental power on condition.
14. Remove the router bit by using the wrench and spindle lock button.
15. Reset the space.
Safety
Certification
Troubleshooting
If you notice burning or dark coloration on the material it could be caused by feeding the cutter at too slow of a rate. A dull cutter can also cause material burning.
Maintenance
General maintenance
- Make sure cutter bits are clean.
- Remove and clean the collets as needed.
- Make sure any adjustment screws are tight.
Specific Maintenance Tasks
| Maintenance Procedure | Frequency | Done By |
|---|---|---|
| Sample | Sample | Sample |