Difference between revisions of "Formlabs 3D Printer"

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  |Is equipment=True
 
  |Is equipment=True
 
  |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
 
  |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
  |Is used in domain=Electronics|Plastics
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  |Is used in domain=Electronics
 +
|Has serial number=DelicateOyster / KeenFly
 
  |Has name={{PAGENAME}}
 
  |Has name={{PAGENAME}}
 
  |Has icon=File:formlabs_printer_icon.png
 
  |Has icon=File:formlabs_printer_icon.png
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  |Has imagedesc=Formlabs Form 2 3D Printer
 
  |Has imagedesc=Formlabs Form 2 3D Printer
 
  |Has description=(???)
 
  |Has description=(???)
  |Has certification=(???)
+
  |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1237
 
  |Has group=3D Printers
 
  |Has group=3D Printers
 
  |Has make=Formlabs
 
  |Has make=Formlabs
  |Has model=Form 2
+
  |Has model=Form 3
  |Has ace=Josh Lee;jlee17@georgefox.edu
+
  |Has ace=Ellie Strauss;estrauss21@georgefox.edu
 
}}
 
}}
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 +
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|300px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
  
 
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}
 
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}
  
 
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}
 
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}
 +
 +
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}
  
 
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).
 
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).
  
 
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}
 
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}
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__TOC__
 
__TOC__
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==Description==
 
==Description==
  
The Form 2 is Formlab's 3rd generation printer boasting a whole range of new features including a new peeling mechanism, heated tank, touchscreen display, wireless controls and an automated resin system. The resulting prints that come off of the Form 2 have consistently been among the highest quality objects to come off of any desktop 3D printer. This machine is best used with the [[Form Wash and Cure]] <ref name=":0" />
+
The Form 3 is Formlab's 3rd generation printer boasting a whole range of new features including a new peeling mechanism, heated tank, touchscreen display, wireless controls and an automated resin system. The resulting prints that come off of the Form 3 have consistently been among the highest quality objects to come off of any desktop 3D printer. This machine is best used with the [[Form Wash and Cure]] <ref name=":0">Description adapted from [https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/form-2 3dhubs].</ref>
  
The Form 2 employs [[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]] (Stereolithography Apparatus). Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled in the PreForm software to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This ensures the wiper blade in the resin tank doesn't remove the print from the build plate. When reviewing the supports in PreForm, check to make sure all supports are created in areas from which they can be easily removed, or that supports created in inaccessible areas won't interfere with the print's intended function. Also check to make sure no supports are created on hard edges, as any placed supports will break up the edge, and removing them properly takes longer than necessary and can potentially damage the print.
+
The Form 3 employs [[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]] (Stereolithography Apparatus). Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled in the PreForm software to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This ensures the wiper blade in the resin tank doesn't remove the print from the build plate. When reviewing the supports in PreForm, check to make sure all supports are created in areas from which they can be easily removed, or that supports created in inaccessible areas won't interfere with the print's intended function. Also check to make sure no supports are created on hard edges, as any placed supports will break up the edge, and removing them properly takes longer than necessary and can potentially damage the print.
  
 
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tn5zA5bNSE}}
 
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tn5zA5bNSE}}
Line 40: Line 47:
  
 
Insert terminology here
 
Insert terminology here
 +
<gallery>
 +
File:TouchScreen.jpg|Touchscreen
 +
File:...resinCartridge.jpg|Resin Cartridge
 +
File:...form2BuildPlate.jpg|Build Platform
 +
File:...ResinTray.png|Resin Tank
 +
</gallery>
  
User Manual
+
[https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Quick-Start-Guide?language=en_US Quick Start Guide]
 +
 
 +
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/ Product Home Page]
 +
 
 +
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/tech-specs/ Tech Specs]
 +
 
 +
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/design-specs/ Design Specs]
  
 
==Training==
 
==Training==
====Overview====
+
====Operation====
  
The Form 2 is most useful for its ability to print incredibly accurate parts, with layers as thin as .025mm thick, depending on the resin selected. Due to the size of the Form 2, it can only be used to print smaller pieces, and the extra layering for detail combined with the de-lamination process also causes the Form 2 to generally be the slowest printer in the lab. Unless an exception is made, a model with supports included should be no larger than 30mL worth of resin. If specific material properties are needed for a print, the Form 2 is a good option to look into thanks to the many differing resins available for use.
+
The Form 3 is most useful for its ability to print incredibly accurate parts, with layers as thin as .025mm thick, depending on the resin selected. Due to the size of the Form 2, it can only be used to print smaller pieces, and the extra layering for detail combined with the de-lamination process also causes the Form 3 to generally be the slowest printer in the lab. Unless an exception is made, a model with supports included should be no larger than 30mL worth of resin. If specific material properties are needed for a print, the Form 3 is a good option to look into thanks to the many differing resins available for use.
  
 
====Demonstration====
 
====Demonstration====
  
To show a complete understanding of the Form 2, students will prepare a part, upload it to the Form 2, and print it.
+
To show a complete understanding of the Form 3, students will prepare a part, upload it to the Form 3, and print it.
  
 
====General Procedure====
 
====General Procedure====
# Setting up PreForm
+
 
## PreForm is the software we will use to import or model to the printer.  
+
#Setting up PreForm
## To begin with, make sure the print is under the approve cost/size cutoff ($7), or the person printing has special approval.
+
##PreForm is the software we will use to import or model to the printer.  When connecting to PreForm you need to make sure the wifi is enabled and connected to bruin Secure. Make sure the correct printer is selected as well.
## If a window pops up saying the print is broken, hit the repair button then proceed as normal.
+
##To begin with, make sure the print is under the approved cost/size cutoff ($7), or the person printing has special approval to exceed this limit.
## Parts must be shrunk to fit within the build area, further size edits can be made in the Size tab.
+
##If a window pops up saying the print is broken, hit the repair button then proceed as normal.
### The goal is to reduce the horizontal area covered with each pass of the wiper. Start with auto-orienting the part using the 'Orient Selected' button in the Orientation tab, this is a good place to start and will make it easier to see if the part needs further orientation.[[File:Size set.jpg|none|thumb| Image 1-Model too big for build plate--Image 2-Model shrunk to fit build plate]]
+
##Parts must be shrunk to fit within the build area, further size edits can be made in the Size tab.
## Don't place supports on hard edges (right angles) or in inaccessible places. This will cause the print to be unprintable, because it just can't complete the task you're giving it.
+
###The goal is to reduce the horizontal area covered with each pass of the wiper. Start with auto-orienting the part using the 'Orient Selected' button in the Orientation tab, this is a good place to start and will make it easier to see if the part needs further orientation.[[File:Size set.jpg|none|thumb| Image 1-Model too big for build plate--Image 2-Model shrunk to fit build plate]]
## Every part that needs support should have support - PreForm will highlight unsupported areas in red, place supports until the red areas go away, '''check the part thoroughly.''' Preform does not let you print with unsupported areas, so if an error occurs that does not let you print, check to make sure the entire part is supported.
+
##Don't place supports on hard edges (right angles) or in inaccessible places. This will cause the print to be unprintable.
## Supports can be added, edited, and removed in the PreForm Supports tab.
+
##Every part that needs support should have support - PreForm will highlight unsupported areas in red, place supports until the red areas go away. '''Check the part thoroughly because PreForm will not let you print with unsupported areas.'''
### Support density should be between .5 and .7.
+
##Supports can be added, edited, and removed in the PreForm Supports tab.
### Support point size should be between .6mm and .8mm.
+
###Support density should be between .5 and .7.   '''''[Note - Is this a setting or a dimension?]'''''
### These values can be edited if necessary to ensure printability, just use common sense when adjusting values.
+
###Support point size should be between .6mm and .8mm.
## The Layout tab can be used to add additional copies of a part.  
+
###These values can be edited if necessary to ensure printability, just use common sense when adjusting values.
## Ensure the proper printer and resin type are selected in Preform prior to starting the print.
+
##The Layout tab can be used to add additional copies of a part.
# Choosing a Resin Type
+
##Ensure you are connected to Bruin Secure wifi with the proper printer and resin type selected in Preform prior to printing. Additionally, make sure that the resin you want is already installed in the printers. If the resin needs to be changed to the one that you want, ask a Lab Volunteer to help you.
## Go through each of these resin types to evaluate which material you will make your part out of. Once you have finished, you can send the file from the computer to the Formlabs printer
+
#Choosing a Resin Type
## Black/grey standard: the Standard Resins section of [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material].
+
##Go through each of these resin types to evaluate which material you will make your part out of. Once you have finished, you can send the file from the computer to the Formlabs printer
### Pros: high detail, matte surfaces, good for small, intricate features.
+
##Black/grey standard: the Standard Resins section of [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material].
### Cons: not particularly strong, stretchy, or flexible.
+
###Pros: high detail, matte surfaces, good for small, intricate features.
## Tough: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Tough-Resin?language=en_US Tough]
+
###Cons: not particularly strong, stretchy, or flexible.
### Pros: good for hard edges, snap fits, and high-stresses.
+
##Tough: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Tough-Resin?language=en_US Tough]
### Cons: bad for fine details and rigid prints, will not stretch as much as Durable.
+
###Pros: good for hard edges, snap fits, and high-stresses.
## Durable: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Durable-Resin?language=en_US Durable]
+
###Cons: bad for fine details and rigid prints, will not stretch as much as Durable.
### Pros: low-friction, high impact strength, good for parts that are both rigid and flexible.
+
##Durable: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Durable-Resin?language=en_US Durable]
### Cons: bad for fine detail parts.
+
###Pros: low-friction, high impact strength, good for parts that are both rigid and flexible.
## Flexible: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Flexible-Resin?language=en_US Flexible]
+
###Cons: bad for fine detail parts.
### Pros: can simulate rubber when uncured, good for functional prototyping.
+
##Flexible: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Flexible-Resin?language=en_US Flexible]
### Cons: bad for fine detail or applications when rigidity or hardness are required.
+
###Pros: can simulate rubber when uncured, good for functional prototyping.
## See the respective links for each resin for in-depth descriptions of each resin's properties and suggested applications, or look at [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material] for a shorter overview. Most resins do not handle high temperatures or constant loading well.
+
###Cons: bad for fine detail or applications when rigidity or hardness are required.
# '''Operating the Touchscreen DO THIS'''
+
##See the respective links for each resin for in-depth descriptions of each resin's properties and suggested applications, or look at [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material] for a shorter overview. Most resins do not handle high temperatures or constant loading well.
# Changing Resin
+
#Operating the Touchscreen
## In the Formlabs Printer, there is a tray of resin, and sometimes that will not be the resin you want to print your material out of, so it will occasionally need to be changed. Lab volunteers will be the ones to do this for you, so if you need resin changed, let them know.
+
##You will be able to start your print using the touchscreen on the Form 3. If it is sleeping, just press the button and it should wake up.
## Remove, clean, and replace the build plate.
+
##When it wakes up, you will likely see this screen. It displays the most recently prepared job and gives you the option to print now by pressing the blue button on the bottom right of the screen.[[File:TouchScreen.jpg|none|thumb]]
### Pull lever holding build plate in place up, allowing the build plate to be removed.
+
##There are two other buttons you can press on the left screen. The USB button will take you to the settings of the printer, so you will not need to go here. The checklist button brings a list of every job that has been uploaded to the printer, so you will want to be selecting this one to find your print. When you find your print, select "print now". The printer will make sure that you perform the appropriate setup before it starts printing, such as inserting the tank in the back of the printer and assuring that the build plate is cleared of other printed parts.
### Place the build plate on the holding rack in the Form Wash. Run the build plate through the Wash to remove resin. For the build plate, the Wash should be set to 10 minutes.
+
##The print will begin its process once you hit Print Now! A time estimate will be provided.
### Let the build plate air dry before replacing, secure by flipping lever down.
+
#Removing Prints
## Remove and replace resin tank and wiper.
+
##Your part should now be finished! Follow these steps to clean it up.
### Firmly pull wiper back until it's out of its slot and loose in the resin tank. Leave the wiper in the resin tank, each tank has its own wiper.
+
##Finished prints
### Firmly pull tank back until it pops loose of the printer, put the appropriate lid on the resin tank, and store with wiper in tank.  
+
###Use a scraping tool to remove the print and any extra material from the build plate, taking care to not scratch the build plate. Go as carefully and as slowly as needed to prevent damaging the print.
### Before inserting the new resin tank, remove its lid and store.
+
####The build plate stand can be used for easier removal.
### Slot the new resin tank into place in the printer.
+
###Wash the print in the Form Wash.
### Use a scraping tool to dredge bottom of new resin tank for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, remove any found bits.
+
###If the print is being cured, only remove support material after it has been run through the Form Cure.
### Slot the new tank's wiper into place.
+
###Supports should be clipped off, and any leftover support material can be sanded down if desired.
### Be sure to clean up any resin that spills during this process.
+
##Failed prints
## Remove and replace the resin cartridge in the back of the printer.
+
###Follow the same process for finished prints for removing.
### Close the lid of the cartridge if it's open.
+
###'''When a print fails, the build plate must be cleaned and run through the Wash''' before a new print can be started, as leftover residue from the failed print can cause subsequent prints to also fail. You will also need to check the resin tank for clumps as well as double check the model orientation.  Don't forget to update the job log as well.
### Pull cartridge out of the printer.
+
#Washing and Curing Prints
### Wipe dry the resin drip on the bottom of the cartridge, then store.
+
##See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page.
### Insert new resin cartridge, '''of the same resin as the tank'''.
+
#Changing Resin
### Open lid on resin cartridge before starting a print, and close after.
+
##If the Formlabs Printer resin tray does not contain the resin you want, allow Lab volunteers to provide the desired resin.
# Removing Prints
+
##Remove, clean, and replace the build plate.
## Your part should now be finished! Follow these steps to clean it up.
+
###Pull lever holding build plate in place up, allowing the build plate to be removed.
## Finished prints
+
###Place the build plate on the holding rack in the Form Wash. Run the build plate through the Wash to remove resin. For the build plate, the Wash should be set to 10 minutes.
### Use a scraping tool to remove the print and any extra material from the build plate, taking care to not scratch the build plate. Go as carefully and as slowly as needed to prevent damaging the print.
+
###Let the build plate air dry before replacing, secure by flipping lever down.
#### The build plate stand can be used for easier removal.
+
##Remove and replace resin tank and wiper.
### Wash the print in the Form Wash.
+
###Firmly pull wiper back until it's out of its slot and loose in the resin tank. Leave the wiper in the resin tank, each tank has its own wiper.
### If the print is being cured, only remove support material after it has been run through the Form Cure.
+
###Firmly pull tank back until it pops loose of the printer, put the appropriate lid on the resin tank, and store with wiper in tank.
### Supports should be clipped off, and any leftover support material can be sanded down if desired.
+
###Before inserting the new resin tank, remove its lid and store.
## Failed prints
+
###Slot the new resin tank into place in the printer.
### Follow the same process for finished prints for removing.
+
###Use a scraping tool to dredge bottom of new resin tank for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, remove any found bits.
### '''When a print fails, the build plate must be cleaned and run through the Wash''' before a new print can be started, as leftover residue from the failed print can cause subsequent prints to also fail. That's bad.
+
###Slot the new tank's wiper into place.
# Washing and Curing Prints
+
###Be sure to clean up any resin that spills during this process.
## See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page.
+
##Remove and replace the resin cartridge in the back of the printer.
 +
###Close the lid of the cartridge if it's open.
 +
###Pull cartridge out of the printer.
 +
###Wipe dry the resin drip on the bottom of the cartridge, then store.
 +
###Insert new resin cartridge, '''of the same resin as the tank'''.
 +
###Open lid on resin cartridge before starting a print, and close after.
  
 
==Safety==
 
==Safety==
Insert text
+
The most dangerous part of using the Form 3 is taking the part off of the build plate. The scraping tool could hurt your little fingers, so make sure you do not hit them. Also, the alcohol used to clean the print is not for drinking purposes. It is both against the lifestyle contract and very harmful to you if you drink it, so do not do it.
 +
 
 +
==Approved Resins==
 +
*
  
 
==Certification==
 
==Certification==
  
Foxtale Quiz
+
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1237 Canvas Quiz]
  
 
==Troubleshooting==
 
==Troubleshooting==
If a print fails, the most likely cause is contamination of the resin. Before proceeding, see the procedure for Failed Prints. Contamination of the resin involves leftover material on the build plate, or particulates in the resin tank. Before attempting a new print, thoroughly clean the build plate, and dredge the resin tank for any loose particles. Another cause is incorrect orientation of the print. Check the print file in question, and ensure it has been canted accordingly to prevent the de-laminating process from removing the print from the build plate. '''Don't ever mix resin types.'''
+
If a print fails, the most likely cause is contamination of the resin. Before proceeding, see the procedure for Failed Prints. Contamination of the resin involves leftover material on the build plate, or particulates in the resin tank. Before attempting a new print, thoroughly clean the build plate, and dredge the resin tank for any loose particles. Another cause is incorrect orientation of the print. Check the print file in question, and ensure it has been canted accordingly to prevent the de-laminating process from removing the print from the build plate. Make sure to also update the job log.
  
Old resin and resin tanks can also present issues. If a resin tanks is particularly cloudy on the bottom, the laser will be prevented from being able to penetrate the tank, and cause adhesion issues for the print. Resin can also go bad after sitting for long periods of time or being used heavily. This can be evidenced by discoloration of the resin or separation of the resin into unmixed layers.
+
Old resin and resin tanks can also present issues. '''Don't ever mix resin types.''' If a resin tanks is particularly cloudy on the bottom, the laser will be prevented from being able to penetrate the tank, and cause adhesion issues for the print. Resin can also go bad after sitting for long periods of time or being used heavily. This can be evidenced by discoloration of the resin or separation of the resin into unmixed layers.
  
 
==Maintenance==
 
==Maintenance==
 
====General maintenance====
 
====General maintenance====
# Dredging: Every few prints the resin tank should be dredged with a scraping tool to search for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, when resin tanks are switched out, and when a print fails. Remove any found bits. Dredging is done by sweeping a scraping tool back and forth across the bottom of the resin tank, essentially mixing up the resin to stir up any loose bits. Take care while dredging to not scrape the tank. See a resin's particular page on the Formlabs website for additional cleaning instruction. If the tank is not cleanable, switch out the resin tank. If the problem persists, it's possible the resin cartridge needs to be switched out as well.
+
 
# Alcohol in the Form Wash must be changed once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.
+
#Dredging: Every few prints the resin tank should be checked and dredged with a scraping tool to search for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, as well as when resin tanks are switched out, and when a print fails. Remove any found bits. Dredging is done by sweeping a scraping tool back and forth across the bottom of the resin tank, essentially mixing up the resin to stir up any loose bits. Take care while dredging to not scrape the tank. See a resin's particular page on the Formlabs website for additional cleaning instruction. If the tank is not cleanable, switch out the resin tank. If the problem persists, it's possible the resin cartridge needs to be switched out as well.
# Old resin and resin tanks will occasionally need to be changed out
+
#Alcohol in the Form Wash must be changed once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.
# [https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000003904-Form-2 Form 2 Sources and Help]
+
#Old resin and resin tanks will occasionally need to be changed out
 +
#[https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000003904-Form-2 Form 2 Sources and Help]
  
 
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
 
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
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!Done By
 
!Done By
 
|-
 
|-
|Sample
+
|Dredging
|Sample
+
|Every few prints
|Sample
+
|Lab Volunteer
 +
|-
 +
|Changing Alcohol
 +
|Once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.
 +
|Lab Volunteer
 +
|-
 +
|General Cleaning
 +
|Before and after each use. Reset The Space!
 +
|Student
 
|}
 
|}
  
 
__TOC__
 
__TOC__
 
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
 
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|250px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
 
The Form 2 is Formlab's 3rd generation printer boasting a whole range of new features including a new peeling mechanism, heated tank, touchscreen display, wireless controls and an automated resin system. The resulting prints that come off of the Form 2 have consistently been among the highest quality objects to come off of any desktop 3D printer. This machine is best used with the [[Form Wash and Cure]] <ref name=":0">Description adapted from [https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/form-2 3dhubs].</ref>
 
 
The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).<br />
 
__TOC__
 
 
== Documentation ==
 
 
* [https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/ Product Home Page]
 
* [https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/tech-specs/ Tech Specs]
 
* [https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/design-specs/ Design Specs]
 
 
== Training ==
 
 
=== SLA Printing ===
 
The Form 2 employs [[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]] (Stereolithography Apparatus). Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled in the PreForm software to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This ensures the wiper blade in the resin tank doesn't remove the print from the build plate. When reviewing the supports in PreForm, check to make sure all supports are created in areas from which they can be easily removed, or that supports created in inaccessible areas won't interfere with the print's intended function. Also check to make sure no supports are created on hard edges, as any placed supports will break up the edge, and removing them properly takes longer than necessary and can potentially damage the print.[[File:InvertedSLA.png|314x314px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Diagram]]
 
 
=== Why Pick the Form 2? ===
 
The Form 2 is most useful for its ability to print incredibly accurate parts, with layers as thin as .025mm thick, depending on the resin selected. Due to the size of the Form 2, it can only be used to print smaller pieces, and the extra layering for detail combined with the de-lamination process also causes the Form 2 to generally be the slowest printer in the lab. Unless an exception is made, a model with supports included should be no larger than 30mL worth of resin. If specific material properties are needed for a print, the Form 2 is a good option to look into thanks to the many differing resins available for use. 
 
 
=== Setting up Preform ===
 
Follow the Code: a few guidelines should be observed when setting up prints:
 
* To begin with, make sure the print is under the approve cost/size cutoff, or the person printing has special approval
 
* If a window pops up saying the print is broken, hit the repair button then proceed as normal
 
* Parts must be shrunk to fit within the build area, further size edits can be made in the Size tab
 
[[File:Size set.jpg|none|thumb|1045x1045px| Image 1-Model too big for build plate--Image 2-Model shrunk to fit build plate]]
 
* All prints should be slightly canted (angled) to prevent the delamination process from removing the print from the build plate
 
** The goal is to reduce the horizontal area covered with each pass of the wiper
 
** Start with auto-orienting the part using the 'Orient Selected' button in the Orientation tab, this is a good place to start and will make it easier to see if the part needs further orientation
 
* Don't place supports on hard edges (right angles) or in inaccessible places
 
* Supports should be used in accordance with the part
 
** Every part that needs support should have support - PreForm will highlight unsupported areas in red, place supports until the red areas go away, '''check the part thoroughly'''
 
*** Preform shouldn't let you print with unsupported areas
 
** Supports can be added, edited, and removed in the PreForm Supports tab
 
*** Support density should be between .5 and .7
 
*** Support point size should be between .6mm and .8mm
 
*** These values can be edited if necessary to ensure printability, just use common sense when adjusting values
 
** Larger prints will require more support than smaller prints
 
* The Layout tab can be used to add additional copies of a part
 
* Ensure the proper printer and resin type are selected in Preform prior to starting the print
 
 
=== Choosing a Resin Type ===
 
Currently the lab supports printing with:
 
* Black/grey standard: the Standard Resins section of [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material]
 
** Pros: high detail, matte surfaces, good for small, intricate features
 
** Cons: not particularly strong, stretchy, or flexible
 
* Tough: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Tough-Resin?language=en_US Tough]
 
** Pros: good for hard edges, snap fits, and high-stresses
 
** Cons: bad for fine details and rigid prints, will not stretch as much as Durable
 
* Durable: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Durable-Resin?language=en_US Durable]
 
** Pros: low-friction, high impact strength, good for parts that are both rigid and flexible
 
** Cons: bad for fine detail parts
 
* Flexible: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Flexible-Resin?language=en_US Flexible]
 
** Pros: can simulate rubber when uncured, good for functional prototyping
 
** Cons: bad for fine detail or applications when rigidity or hardness are required
 
See the respective links for each resin for in-depth descriptions of each resin's properties and suggested applications, or look at [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material] for a shorter overview. Most resins do not handle high temperatures or constant loading well.
 
 
=== Changing Resin ===
 
# Remove, clean, and replace the build plate.
 
## Pull lever holding build plate in place up, allowing the build plate to be removed.
 
## Place the build plate on the holding rack in the Form Wash. Run the build plate through the Wash to remove resin. For the build plate, the Wash should be set to 10 minutes.
 
## Let the build plate air dry before replacing, secure by flipping lever down.
 
# Remove and replace resin tank and wiper.
 
## Firmly pull wiper back until it's out of its slot and loose in the resin tank. Leave the wiper in the resin tank, each tank has its own wiper.
 
## Firmly pull tank back until it pops loose of the printer, put the appropriate lid on the resin tank, and store with wiper in tank.
 
## Before inserting the new resin tank, remove its lid and store.
 
## Slot the new resin tank into place in the printer.
 
## Use a scraping tool to dredge bottom of new resin tank for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, remove any found bits.
 
## Slot the new tank's wiper into place.
 
## Be sure to clean up any resin that spills during this process.
 
# Remove and replace the resin cartridge in the back of the printer.
 
## Close the lid of the cartridge if it's open.
 
## Pull cartridge out of the printer.
 
## Wipe dry the resin drip on the bottom of the cartridge, then store.
 
## Insert new resin cartridge, '''of the same resin as the tank'''.
 
## Open lid on resin cartridge before starting a print, and close after.
 
 
=== Removing Prints ===
 
# Finished prints
 
## Use a scraping tool to remove the print and any extra material from the build plate, taking care to not scratch the build plate. Go as carefully and as slowly as needed to prevent damaging the print.
 
### The build plate stand can be used for easier removal.
 
## Wash the print in the Form Wash.
 
## If the print is being cured, only remove support material after it has been run through the Form Cure.
 
## Supports should be clipped off, and any leftover support material can be sanded down if desired.
 
# Failed prints
 
## Follow the same process for finished prints for removing.
 
## '''When a print fails, the build plate must be cleaned and run through the Wash''' before a new print can be started, as leftover residue from the failed print can cause subsequent prints to also fail. That's bad.
 
 
=== Washing and Curing Prints ===
 
See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page.
 
=== Common Errors ===
 
If a print fails, the most likely cause is contamination of the resin. Before proceeding, see the procedure for Failed Prints. Contamination of the resin involves leftover material on the build plate, or particulates in the resin tank. Before attempting a new print, thoroughly clean the build plate, and dredge the resin tank for any loose particles. Another cause is incorrect orientation of the print. Check the print file in question, and ensure it has been canted accordingly to prevent the de-laminating process from removing the print from the build plate. '''Don't ever mix resin types.'''
 
 
Old resin and resin tanks can also present issues. If a resin tanks is particularly cloudy on the bottom, the laser will be prevented from being able to penetrate the tank, and cause adhesion issues for the print. Resin can also go bad after sitting for long periods of time or being used heavily. This can be evidenced by discoloration of the resin or separation of the resin into unmixed layers.
 
 
=== Maintenance ===
 
* Dredging: Every few prints the resin tank should be dredged with a scraping tool to search for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, when resin tanks are switched out, and when a print fails. Remove any found bits. Dredging is done by sweeping a scraping tool back and forth across the bottom of the resin tank, essentially mixing up the resin to stir up any loose bits. Take care while dredging to not scrape the tank. See a resin's particular page on the Formlabs website for additional cleaning instruction. If the tank is not cleanable, switch out the resin tank. If the problem persists, it's possible the resin cartridge needs to be switched out as well.
 
* Alcohol in the Form Wash must be changed once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.
 
* Old resin and resin tanks will occasionally need to be changed out
 
 
* [https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000003904-Form-2 Form 2 Sources and Help]
 
  
 
==Resources==
 
==Resources==

Latest revision as of 10:47, 4 August 2022


Formlabs 3D Printer Icon
Formlabs Form 2 3D Printer

Make: Formlabs

Model: Form 3

Serial Number: DelicateOyster / KeenFly

Ace: Ellie Strauss (estrauss21@georgefox.edu).

Location: Prototype Lab


Description

The Form 3 is Formlab's 3rd generation printer boasting a whole range of new features including a new peeling mechanism, heated tank, touchscreen display, wireless controls and an automated resin system. The resulting prints that come off of the Form 3 have consistently been among the highest quality objects to come off of any desktop 3D printer. This machine is best used with the Form Wash and Cure [1]

The Form 3 employs SLA Printing (Stereolithography Apparatus). Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled in the PreForm software to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This ensures the wiper blade in the resin tank doesn't remove the print from the build plate. When reviewing the supports in PreForm, check to make sure all supports are created in areas from which they can be easily removed, or that supports created in inaccessible areas won't interfere with the print's intended function. Also check to make sure no supports are created on hard edges, as any placed supports will break up the edge, and removing them properly takes longer than necessary and can potentially damage the print.

Documentation

Terminology

Insert terminology here

Quick Start Guide

Product Home Page

Tech Specs

Design Specs

Training

Operation

The Form 3 is most useful for its ability to print incredibly accurate parts, with layers as thin as .025mm thick, depending on the resin selected. Due to the size of the Form 2, it can only be used to print smaller pieces, and the extra layering for detail combined with the de-lamination process also causes the Form 3 to generally be the slowest printer in the lab. Unless an exception is made, a model with supports included should be no larger than 30mL worth of resin. If specific material properties are needed for a print, the Form 3 is a good option to look into thanks to the many differing resins available for use.

Demonstration

To show a complete understanding of the Form 3, students will prepare a part, upload it to the Form 3, and print it.

General Procedure

  1. Setting up PreForm
    1. PreForm is the software we will use to import or model to the printer. When connecting to PreForm you need to make sure the wifi is enabled and connected to bruin Secure. Make sure the correct printer is selected as well.
    2. To begin with, make sure the print is under the approved cost/size cutoff ($7), or the person printing has special approval to exceed this limit.
    3. If a window pops up saying the print is broken, hit the repair button then proceed as normal.
    4. Parts must be shrunk to fit within the build area, further size edits can be made in the Size tab.
      1. The goal is to reduce the horizontal area covered with each pass of the wiper. Start with auto-orienting the part using the 'Orient Selected' button in the Orientation tab, this is a good place to start and will make it easier to see if the part needs further orientation.
        Image 1-Model too big for build plate--Image 2-Model shrunk to fit build plate
    5. Don't place supports on hard edges (right angles) or in inaccessible places. This will cause the print to be unprintable.
    6. Every part that needs support should have support - PreForm will highlight unsupported areas in red, place supports until the red areas go away. Check the part thoroughly because PreForm will not let you print with unsupported areas.
    7. Supports can be added, edited, and removed in the PreForm Supports tab.
      1. Support density should be between .5 and .7. [Note - Is this a setting or a dimension?]
      2. Support point size should be between .6mm and .8mm.
      3. These values can be edited if necessary to ensure printability, just use common sense when adjusting values.
    8. The Layout tab can be used to add additional copies of a part.
    9. Ensure you are connected to Bruin Secure wifi with the proper printer and resin type selected in Preform prior to printing. Additionally, make sure that the resin you want is already installed in the printers. If the resin needs to be changed to the one that you want, ask a Lab Volunteer to help you.
  2. Choosing a Resin Type
    1. Go through each of these resin types to evaluate which material you will make your part out of. Once you have finished, you can send the file from the computer to the Formlabs printer
    2. Black/grey standard: the Standard Resins section of Choosing the Right Material.
      1. Pros: high detail, matte surfaces, good for small, intricate features.
      2. Cons: not particularly strong, stretchy, or flexible.
    3. Tough: Tough
      1. Pros: good for hard edges, snap fits, and high-stresses.
      2. Cons: bad for fine details and rigid prints, will not stretch as much as Durable.
    4. Durable: Durable
      1. Pros: low-friction, high impact strength, good for parts that are both rigid and flexible.
      2. Cons: bad for fine detail parts.
    5. Flexible: Flexible
      1. Pros: can simulate rubber when uncured, good for functional prototyping.
      2. Cons: bad for fine detail or applications when rigidity or hardness are required.
    6. See the respective links for each resin for in-depth descriptions of each resin's properties and suggested applications, or look at Choosing the Right Material for a shorter overview. Most resins do not handle high temperatures or constant loading well.
  3. Operating the Touchscreen
    1. You will be able to start your print using the touchscreen on the Form 3. If it is sleeping, just press the button and it should wake up.
    2. When it wakes up, you will likely see this screen. It displays the most recently prepared job and gives you the option to print now by pressing the blue button on the bottom right of the screen.
      TouchScreen.jpg
    3. There are two other buttons you can press on the left screen. The USB button will take you to the settings of the printer, so you will not need to go here. The checklist button brings a list of every job that has been uploaded to the printer, so you will want to be selecting this one to find your print. When you find your print, select "print now". The printer will make sure that you perform the appropriate setup before it starts printing, such as inserting the tank in the back of the printer and assuring that the build plate is cleared of other printed parts.
    4. The print will begin its process once you hit Print Now! A time estimate will be provided.
  4. Removing Prints
    1. Your part should now be finished! Follow these steps to clean it up.
    2. Finished prints
      1. Use a scraping tool to remove the print and any extra material from the build plate, taking care to not scratch the build plate. Go as carefully and as slowly as needed to prevent damaging the print.
        1. The build plate stand can be used for easier removal.
      2. Wash the print in the Form Wash.
      3. If the print is being cured, only remove support material after it has been run through the Form Cure.
      4. Supports should be clipped off, and any leftover support material can be sanded down if desired.
    3. Failed prints
      1. Follow the same process for finished prints for removing.
      2. When a print fails, the build plate must be cleaned and run through the Wash before a new print can be started, as leftover residue from the failed print can cause subsequent prints to also fail. You will also need to check the resin tank for clumps as well as double check the model orientation. Don't forget to update the job log as well.
  5. Washing and Curing Prints
    1. See the Form Wash and Cure page.
  6. Changing Resin
    1. If the Formlabs Printer resin tray does not contain the resin you want, allow Lab volunteers to provide the desired resin.
    2. Remove, clean, and replace the build plate.
      1. Pull lever holding build plate in place up, allowing the build plate to be removed.
      2. Place the build plate on the holding rack in the Form Wash. Run the build plate through the Wash to remove resin. For the build plate, the Wash should be set to 10 minutes.
      3. Let the build plate air dry before replacing, secure by flipping lever down.
    3. Remove and replace resin tank and wiper.
      1. Firmly pull wiper back until it's out of its slot and loose in the resin tank. Leave the wiper in the resin tank, each tank has its own wiper.
      2. Firmly pull tank back until it pops loose of the printer, put the appropriate lid on the resin tank, and store with wiper in tank.
      3. Before inserting the new resin tank, remove its lid and store.
      4. Slot the new resin tank into place in the printer.
      5. Use a scraping tool to dredge bottom of new resin tank for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, remove any found bits.
      6. Slot the new tank's wiper into place.
      7. Be sure to clean up any resin that spills during this process.
    4. Remove and replace the resin cartridge in the back of the printer.
      1. Close the lid of the cartridge if it's open.
      2. Pull cartridge out of the printer.
      3. Wipe dry the resin drip on the bottom of the cartridge, then store.
      4. Insert new resin cartridge, of the same resin as the tank.
      5. Open lid on resin cartridge before starting a print, and close after.

Safety

The most dangerous part of using the Form 3 is taking the part off of the build plate. The scraping tool could hurt your little fingers, so make sure you do not hit them. Also, the alcohol used to clean the print is not for drinking purposes. It is both against the lifestyle contract and very harmful to you if you drink it, so do not do it.

Approved Resins

Certification

Canvas Quiz

Troubleshooting

If a print fails, the most likely cause is contamination of the resin. Before proceeding, see the procedure for Failed Prints. Contamination of the resin involves leftover material on the build plate, or particulates in the resin tank. Before attempting a new print, thoroughly clean the build plate, and dredge the resin tank for any loose particles. Another cause is incorrect orientation of the print. Check the print file in question, and ensure it has been canted accordingly to prevent the de-laminating process from removing the print from the build plate. Make sure to also update the job log.

Old resin and resin tanks can also present issues. Don't ever mix resin types. If a resin tanks is particularly cloudy on the bottom, the laser will be prevented from being able to penetrate the tank, and cause adhesion issues for the print. Resin can also go bad after sitting for long periods of time or being used heavily. This can be evidenced by discoloration of the resin or separation of the resin into unmixed layers.

Maintenance

General maintenance

  1. Dredging: Every few prints the resin tank should be checked and dredged with a scraping tool to search for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, as well as when resin tanks are switched out, and when a print fails. Remove any found bits. Dredging is done by sweeping a scraping tool back and forth across the bottom of the resin tank, essentially mixing up the resin to stir up any loose bits. Take care while dredging to not scrape the tank. See a resin's particular page on the Formlabs website for additional cleaning instruction. If the tank is not cleanable, switch out the resin tank. If the problem persists, it's possible the resin cartridge needs to be switched out as well.
  2. Alcohol in the Form Wash must be changed once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the Form Wash and Cure page for details.
  3. Old resin and resin tanks will occasionally need to be changed out
  4. Form 2 Sources and Help

Specific Maintenance Tasks

Maintenance Procedure Frequency Done By
Dredging Every few prints Lab Volunteer
Changing Alcohol Once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the Form Wash and Cure page for details. Lab Volunteer
General Cleaning Before and after each use. Reset The Space! Student


Resources

Form Wash and Cure

SLA Printing

Link to shop Equipment page

  1. Description adapted from 3dhubs.