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Line 1: − In this [[TV]], we will take you through the steps of designing an egg shaker in [[Solidworks|SolidWorks]] and then 3D printing it using the [[Prusa 3D Printer]].+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + Line 35:
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{{#set:
|Is tv=True
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Egg 36.jpg
|Has icondesc=Egg Shaker Icon
|Has image=File:Egg 36.jpg
|Has description=Finished 3D Printed Egg Shaker
|Uses equipment=Prusa 3D Printer
|Uses software=PrusaSlicer
|Uses software=Solidworks
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
[[{{#show:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[File:Egg 36.jpg|300px|thumb|right|Finished 3D Printed Egg Shaker]]
In this [[TV]], we will take you through the steps of designing an egg shaker in [[Solidworks|SolidWorks]], preparing the print in [[PrusaSlicer]], and then 3D printing it using the [[Prusa 3D Printer]].
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=Procedure=
=Procedure=
Buckle up...
==SolidWorks==
==SolidWorks==
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<strong>Step 7:</strong> At this point, you should have a total of 4 solid lines and 4 construction lines that look like the screenshot below.
<strong>Step 7:</strong> At this point, you should have a total of 4 solid lines and 3 construction lines that look like the screenshot below.
[[File:Egg 7.png|1500px|none]]
[[File:Egg 7.png|1500px|none]]
<strong>Step 28:</strong> In the left column, select Skirt and brim and set the Distance from object to 6mm.
<strong>Step 28:</strong> In the left column, select Skirt and brim and set the Distance from object to 6mm.
[[File:Egg 28.png|1500px|none]]
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<strong>Step 29:</strong> In the left column, select Advanced and set the Infill/perimeters overlap to 15%.
<strong>Step 29:</strong> In the left column, select Advanced and set the Infill/perimeters overlap to 15%.
[[File:Egg 29.png|1500px|none]]
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<strong>Step 30:</strong> Click on the Plater tab in the top left corner and click Slice now in the bottom right corner. After PrusaSlicer finishes rendering, use the vertical slide bar on the right to step through each layer. You can zoom in/out with the scroll wheel and pan by clicking and holding the scroll wheel.
<strong>Step 30:</strong> Click on the Plater tab in the top left corner and click Slice now in the bottom right corner. After PrusaSlicer finishes rendering, use the vertical slide bar on the right to step through each layer. You can zoom in/out with the scroll wheel and pan by clicking and holding the scroll wheel.
[[File:Egg 30.png|1500px|none]]
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==Printing==
<strong>Step 31:</strong> If everything looks good, click Export G-code in the bottom right corner and save the G-code on an SD card. You are now ready to take the SD card to one of the Prusa 3D printers and begin your print (make sure the MK3/MK3S on the printer matches what you selected in PrusaSlicer). Log your print and use the dry erase markers to record your contact info and print duration. Clean the build plate with a few drops of alcohol before you start your print.
[[File:Egg 31.png|1500px|none]]
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<strong>Step 31:</strong> If everything looks good, click Export G-code in the bottom right corner and save the G-code on an SD card. You are now ready to take the SD card to one of the Prusa 3D printers and begin your print (make sure the MK3/MK3S on the printer matches what you selected in PrusaSlicer).
<strong>Step 32:</strong> It's a good idea to monitor the print's first layer closely. Ensure the first layer is adhering well to the build plate. The transition between the first and second layer occasionally requires attention as well. The print fan often turns on after the first layer is completed. If the fan speed of the print fan is too high, the nozzle/hotend will not be able to maintain the correct temperature for extruding. If the nozzle temperature stays more than 10 degrees below its set value for too long, a thermal runaway error will occur and the part will fail. The fan speed can be adjusted using the Tune menu on the printer as the print is going.
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<strong>Step 32:</strong> Monitor the print in the transition between the first and second layer. fan speed.
<strong>Step 33:</strong> Approximately 2-3 hours into the print, pause it and add the shaker material. For this build, I used 15ml of crushed up PLA from old failed prints. You are welcome to experiment with different shaker materials for various sounds and loudness. The internal volume of the egg is approximately 71ml, so 15ml of shaker material is a good place to start since it fills about 21% of the internal space. Ensure that the height of the shaker material inside the egg will not interfere with the movement of the nozzle/hotend. Resume the print and check on it periodically as it finishes.
[[File:Egg 33.jpg|1500px|none]]
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==Finishing==
<strong>Step 34:</strong> Once the print finishes, remove the entire build plate from the printer (it is magnetically held in place). Gently flex the build plate in various directions to loosen the print. Use your hands to pull the print and support structure off. Only use the scraper as a last resort for removing the print. Scrapers damage the build plate and shorten their lifespan. Reset the space for the next person who will use the printer after you.
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<strong>Step 35:</strong> Remove all of the support structures from the egg and recycle them or throw them away. Use some sandpaper, hand files, and/or the [[Belt/Disc Sander]] to smooth out the places where the supports made contact with the egg.
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<strong>Step 33:</strong> Approximately 2-3 hours into the print, pause it and add the shaker material.
<strong>Step 36:</strong> You should now have a functional egg shaker! Go make some music.
[[File:Egg 36.jpg|900px|none]]