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In this [[TV]], we will take you through the steps of designing an egg shaker in [[Solidworks|SolidWorks]] and then 3D printing it using the [[Prusa 3D Printer]].

|Has description=Finished 3D Printed Egg Shaker

|Uses equipment=Prusa 3D Printer

=Procedure=

=Procedure=

==SolidWorks==

==SolidWorks==

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<strong>Step 7:</strong> At this point, you should have a total of 4 solid lines and 4 construction lines that look like the screenshot below.

<strong>Step 7:</strong> At this point, you should have a total of 4 solid lines and 3 construction lines that look like the screenshot below.

[[File:Egg 7.png|1500px|none]]

[[File:Egg 7.png|1500px|none]]

<strong>Step 23:</strong> In the Prototype Lab, open your .stl file in [[PrusaSlicer]]. You should look for the following icon.

<strong>Step 23:</strong> In the Prototype Lab, open your .stl file in [[PrusaSlicer]]. You should look for the following icon.

[[File:PrusaSlicer Icon.png|100px|frame|none|PrusaSlicer Icon]]

[[File:PrusaSlicer Icon.png|150px|none|thumb|PrusaSlicer Icon]]

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<strong>Step 24:</strong> When a .stl file is loaded in PrusaSlicer, the software doesn't always get the orientation of the object correct (as in the first screenshot below). You may need to rotate your egg in order to put it in the correct orientation for 3D printing. You can use either the Rotate function or the Place on face function; both are located in the left-hand toolbar. Rotate the egg to ensure that the bottom of the egg is on the build plate.

<strong>Step 24:</strong> When a .stl file is loaded in PrusaSlicer, the software doesn't always get the orientation of the object correct (as in the first screenshot below). You may need to rotate your egg in order to put it in the correct orientation for 3D printing. You can use either the Rotate function or the Place on face function; both are located in the left-hand toolbar. Rotate the egg to ensure that the bottom of the egg is on the build plate.

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[[File:Egg 24.2.png|1500px|none]]

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<strong>Step 25:</strong> Configuring your print settings for a 3D print is often a mix of objective and subjective decisions. Using the "right" print settings can make a big difference in the final quality of your part. Certain print settings may make the part fail entirely. The print settings used in this tutorial work for the 3D printed egg shaker, but they may or may not fall into the category of "general best practices for 3D printing." Disclaimers aside... In the right column, use the three drop-down menus to select: 0.15mm QUALITY and Prusa PLA. Select the correct printer (MK3 or MK3S) based on which printers are available. In the Supports drop-down menu, select Support on build plate only and allow PrusaSlicer to enable the Detect bridging perimeters feature. Set the Infill to 30% and check the Brim box.

<strong>Step 25:</strong> Configuring your print settings for a 3D print is often a mix of objective and subjective decisions. Using the "right" print settings can make a big difference in the final quality of your part. Certain print settings may make the part fail entirely. The print settings used in this tutorial work for the 3D printed egg shaker, but they may or may not fall into the category of "general best practices for 3D printing." Disclaimers aside... In the right column, use the three drop-down menus to select: 0.15mm QUALITY and Prusa PLA. Select the correct printer (MK3 or MK3S) based on which printers are available. In the Supports drop-down menu, select Support on build plate only and allow PrusaSlicer to enable the Detect bridging perimeters feature. Set the Infill to 30% and check the Brim box.

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<strong>Step 26:</strong> Click on the Print Settings tab in the top left corner and set the Perimeters to 4. You should see the Detect bridging perimeters option checked below.

<strong>Step 26:</strong> Click on the Print Settings tab in the top left corner and set the Perimeters to 4. You should see the Detect bridging perimeters option checked below.

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<strong>Step 27:</strong> In the left column, select Infill and set the Fill pattern to 3D Honeycomb. Set both the Top fill pattern and the Bottom fill pattern to Concentric.

<strong>Step 27:</strong> In the left column, select Infill and set the Fill pattern to 3D Honeycomb. Set both the Top fill pattern and the Bottom fill pattern to Concentric. The second screenshot below shows the first layer of the print up to this point. Notice that the purple solid infill is concentric from the Bottom fill pattern setting. The 3 yellow layers are perimeter walls followed by the 4th orange perimeter wall. The orange simply indicates an external perimeter layer. The light green is the support structure that will uphold the shallow curvature at the bottom of the egg as it prints. The brim and skirt are in forest green. Notice that the skirt is currently overlapping the brim; we will fix that in the next step.

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<strong>Step 28:</strong> In the left column, select Skirt and brim and set the Distance from object to 6mm.

<strong>Step 28:</strong> In the left column, select Skirt and brim and set the Distance from object to 6mm.

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<strong>Step 29:</strong> In the left column, select Advanced and set the Infill/perimeters overlap to 15%.

<strong>Step 29:</strong> In the left column, select Advanced and set the Infill/perimeters overlap to 15%.

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<strong>Step 30:</strong> Click on the Plater tab in the top left corner and click Slice now in the bottom right corner. After PrusaSlicer finishes rendering, use the vertical slide bar on the right to step through each layer. You can zoom in/out with the scroll wheel and pan by clicking and holding the scroll wheel.

<strong>Step 30:</strong> Click on the Plater tab in the top left corner and click Slice now in the bottom right corner. After PrusaSlicer finishes rendering, use the vertical slide bar on the right to step through each layer. You can zoom in/out with the scroll wheel and pan by clicking and holding the scroll wheel.

 

 

 

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<strong>Step 31:</strong> If everything looks good, click Export G-code in the bottom right corner and save the G-code on an SD card. You are now ready to take the SD card to one of the Prusa 3D printers and begin your print (make sure the MK3/MK3S on the printer matches what you selected in PrusaSlicer).

<strong>Step 32:</strong> It's a good idea to monitor the print's first layer closely. Ensure the first layer is adhering well to the build plate. The transition between the first and second layer occasionally requires attention as well. The print fan often turns on after the first layer is completed. If the fan speed of the print fan is too high, the nozzle/hotend will not be able to maintain the correct temperature for extruding. If the nozzle temperature stays more than 10 degrees below its set value for too long, a thermal runaway error will occur and the part will fail. The fan speed can be adjusted using the Tune menu on the printer as the print is going.

 

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<strong>Step 32:</strong> Monitor the print in the transition between the first and second layer. fan speed.

<strong>Step 33:</strong> Approximately 2-3 hours into the print, pause it and add the shaker material. For this build, I used 15ml of crushed up PLA from old failed prints. You are welcome to experiment with different shaker materials for various sounds and loudness. The internal volume of the egg is approximately 71ml, so 15ml of shaker material is a good place to start since it fills about 21% of the internal space. Ensure that the height of the shaker material inside the egg will not interfere with the movement of the nozzle/hotend. Resume the print and check on it periodically as it finishes.

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<strong>Step 33:</strong> Approximately 2-3 hours into the print, pause it and add the shaker material.

<strong>Step 36:</strong> You should now have a functional egg shaker! Go make some music.