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Line 59:
Line 59: − The hand router is a versatile power tool and can accommodate 2 different cutter shank diameters. Both the 1/4" and 1/2" shank require their own specific collet. The collet is changed by unscrewing the collet clamping nut and removing the collet. The collet is located near the cutter so it tends to collect a large amount of wood dust. It's important to always clean out the collet and collet housing so the spring clamping action works properly. It's very important to have the proper amount of cutter shank engagement. A cutter shank that is not installed correctly could come loose or even damage the collet. You should have at least 3/4" engagement into the collet. The cutter should be inserted all the way into the collet then pulled out approximately 1/8". This will make sure the shank is not bottomed out. + − If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the router itself. When setting up the router height,+ − After the router is set up you are ready to cut. Turn on the router and slowly feed the cutter into the material, making sure to keep your hands on the handles. Do not stop the cutter in one spot and let it sit as this will cause burning. Also make sure the router spindle has stopped spinning before taking your hands off the handles.+
→Operation
===Operation===
===Operation===
Always unplug the router before changing a bit.
Insert the bit until the cutting edge touches the collet then pull the bit out about an eighth inch and finger tighten the collet. It’s important to allow an eighth inch of space between the bit and the collet. Router bits that are not installed properly can come loose while making your cut. In addition, router bits heat up quickly. Heat causes expansion. The space between the bit and the collet will allow for this expansion.
Use the two wrenches to tighten the locking nut on the collet.
===Demonstration===
===Demonstration===