makerhub - User contributions [en]

Scroll Saw

2019-08-27T02:00:43Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Scroll Saw.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Excalibur
|Has model=EX-21
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]

[[File:Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw Image.jpg|thumb|Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw]]
The Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw is a small variable speed electric saw. It operates similarly to a band saw, but uses a reciprocating blade instead of a loop. This reciprocation means the blade does not cut continuously and only on the down stroke. The thinness of the blade allows it to be turned in the work piece at an almost 90 degree angle, which allows the blade to track along fine detail and sharp lines. The blade can also be removed on either the top or bottom of the reciprocating arm which allows the blade to be inserted inside of a work piece without needing an entry cut, the only thing necessary is a small hole drilled through the material. There is a blade guard and a dust blower nozzle that both need to be adjust before a piece can be cut into the material.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
* [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Excalibur-120-Volt-21-in-Tilting-Head-Scroll-Saw-with-Stand-and-Foot-Switch-EX-21K/205414436 Product Distribution Page]
* [https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/5d/5da1c223-3df7-4236-8b34-34eb1641764a.pdf Manual]

== Training ==
* [https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/5d/5da1c223-3df7-4236-8b34-34eb1641764a.pdf Manual]

== Tips ==
When cutting a pattern, overlay the pattern on the workpiece, then work the piece smoothly through the blade path. By maintaining a constant forward movement and turning the piece as to keep the pattern line directly in front of the blade teeth, a smooth and accurate pattern can be cut. If the workpiece ever stops moving forward through the blade, the cut pattern will not be perfectly smooth.

The scroll saw can cut extremely tight curves, by backing up the blade a hair the scroll saw can even cut what is almost a re-entrant corner. This is only advisable in soft woods, and can leave burn marks on the wood.

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Rotary Punch

2019-08-27T01:52:18Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is sheet metal equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Di-Acro
|Has model=BD Rotary Punch
|Has function=Rotary Punch
|Has icon=File: Rotary_punchIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Rotary Punch icon
|Has image=File:Rotary Punch.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Rotary Punch
|Has description=48 inch bending brake, 14 gauge
|Has ace=
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

A rotary punch, also known as a turret punch, is a type of punch press used for metal forming by punching. The punch in the shop is a "C Frame" type punch and is used to cut holes in materials.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

* [http://www.americanmachinetools.com/how_to_use_a_hand_brake.htm How to Use a Hand Brake]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prZtjSlyLFo Box and Pan Brake Video]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
#Always make sure your hands are out of the way of the fingers and all moving parts.

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Rotary Punch

2019-08-27T01:51:24Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is sheet metal equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Di-Acro
|Has model=BD Rotary Punch
|Has function=Rotary Punch
|Has icon=File: Rotary_punchIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Rotary Punch icon
|Has image=File:Rotary Punch.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Rotary Punch
|Has description=48 inch bending brake, 14 gauge
|Has ace=
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
A rotary punch, also known as a turret punch, is a type of punch press used for metal forming by punching. The punch in the shop is a "C Frame" type punch and is used to cut holes in materials.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Resources ==
* [http://www.americanmachinetools.com/how_to_use_a_hand_brake.htm How to Use a Hand Brake]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prZtjSlyLFo Box and Pan Brake Video]

== Training ==

== Safety ==
#Always make sure your hands are out of the way of the fingers and all moving parts.

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Ring Roller

2019-08-27T01:46:12Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is sheet metal equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Baileigh
|Has model=R-M5
|Has function=Ring Roller
|Has icon=File: Ring_rollerIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Ring Roller icon
|Has image=File:Ring_Roller.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Baileigh Ring Roller
|Has description=Baileigh Ring Roller
|Has ace=Noah Bloomquist; nbloomquist17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|275px|thumb|upright=1.0|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

A ring roller is a machine used to roll steel material by forcing the material through through rollers, also called dyes. The rollers can be adjusted to form different radii. The maximum capacity of the roller is 3/16" x 1" flat bar or 1/2" round.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qDPirpROY0 Ring Roller Video]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

[https://www.baileigh.com/manual-ring-roller-r-m5 User Manual]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

#Cut a 5 inch long piece of 1" x 1/8" aluminium.
#Roll the piece to the smallest possible radius. This will not be a full ring.

====General Procedure====

#Adjust the knob on the right to adjust the radius, loosen the handle on the left if it restricting you from adjusting the right one.
#Make sure both knobs are secure and tightened before rolling, always start by rolling the largest radius, and work your way up from there.
#Insert the bar between the rollers.
#Turn the crank to roll the metal bar or rod.
#Start with a large radius and continue to make the radius smaller every time you roll. If you attempt to roll a small radius all at once, the rod may make a corkscrew shape instead of a circle.
#You have completed the roll when the two ends overlap each other by a couple of inches to account for the ends of the bar or rod that stay straight.

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Ring Roller

2019-08-27T01:44:54Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is sheet metal equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Baileigh
|Has model=R-M5
|Has function=Ring Roller
|Has icon=File: Ring_rollerIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Ring Roller icon
|Has image=File:Ring_Roller.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Baileigh Ring Roller
|Has description=Baileigh Ring Roller
|Has ace=Noah Bloomquist; nbloomquist17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|275px|thumb|upright=1.0|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

A ring roller is a machine used to roll steel material by forcing the material through through rollers, also called dyes. The rollers can be adjusted to form different radii. The maximum capacity of the roller is 3/16" x 1" flat bar or 1/2" round.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qDPirpROY0 Ring Roller Video]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual* [https://www.baileigh.com/manual-ring-roller-r-m5 Baileigh Ring Roller Specs]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

#Cut a 5 inch long piece of 1" x 1/8" aluminium.
#Roll the piece to the smallest possible radius. This will not be a full ring.

====General Procedure====

#Adjust the knob on the right to adjust the radius, loosen the handle on the left if it restricting you from adjusting the right one.
#Make sure both knobs are secure and tightened before rolling, always start by rolling the largest radius, and work your way up from there.
#Insert the bar between the rollers.
#Turn the crank to roll the metal bar or rod.
#Start with a large radius and continue to make the radius smaller every time you roll. If you attempt to roll a small radius all at once, the rod may make a corkscrew shape instead of a circle.
#You have completed the roll when the two ends overlap each other by a couple of inches to account for the ends of the bar or rod that stay straight.

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Ring Roller

2019-08-27T01:43:33Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is sheet metal equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Baileigh
|Has model=R-M5
|Has function=Ring Roller
|Has icon=File: Ring_rollerIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Ring Roller icon
|Has image=File:Ring_Roller.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Baileigh Ring Roller
|Has description=Baileigh Ring Roller
|Has ace=Noah Bloomquist; nbloomquist17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|275px|thumb|upright=1.0|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
A ring roller is a machine used to roll steel material by forcing the material through through rollers, also called dyes. The rollers can be adjusted to form different radii. The maximum capacity of the roller is 3/16" x 1" flat bar or 1/2" round.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== 3 commandments ==
Stuff about the [[3 commandments]].
=== Safety First ===
#Do not stick your fingers in between the dyes as they will be crushed.
=== Reset the Space ===

== Documentation ==
* [https://www.baileigh.com/manual-ring-roller-r-m5 Baileigh Ring Roller Specs]

== Resources ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qDPirpROY0 Ring Roller Video]

== Training ==
=== Rolling Steps ===
#Adjust the knob on the right to adjust the radius, loosen the handle on the left if it restricting you from adjusting the right one.
#Make sure both knobs are secure and tightened before rolling, always start by rolling the largest radius, and work your way up from there.
#Insert the bar between the rollers.
#Turn the crank to roll the metal bar or rod.
#Start with a large radius and continue to make the radius smaller every time you roll. If you attempt to roll a small radius all at once, the rod may make a corkscrew shape instead of a circle.
#You have completed the roll when the two ends overlap each other by a couple of inches to account for the ends of the bar or rod that stay straight.

=== Demonstration ===
#Cut a 5 inch long piece of 1" x 1/8" aluminium.
#Roll the piece to the smallest possible radius. This will not be a full ring.

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Ring Roller

2019-08-27T01:42:55Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is sheet metal equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Baileigh
|Has model=R-M5
|Has function=Ring Roller
|Has icon=File: Ring_rollerIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Ring Roller icon
|Has image=File:Ring_Roller.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Baileigh Ring Roller
|Has description=Baileigh Ring Roller
|Has ace=Noah Bloomquist; nbloomquist17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|275px|thumb|upright=1.0|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
A ring roller is a machine used to roll steel material by forcing the material through through rollers, also called dyes. The rollers can be adjusted to form different radii. The maximum capacity of the roller is 3/16" x 1" flat bar or 1/2" round.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== 3 commandments ==
Stuff about the [[3 commandments]].
=== Safety First ===
#Do not stick your fingers in between the dyes as they will be crushed.
=== Reset the Space ===

== Documentation ==
* [https://www.baileigh.com/manual-ring-roller-r-m5 Baileigh Ring Roller Specs]

== Resources ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qDPirpROY0 Ring Roller Video]

== Training ==
=== Rolling Steps ===
#Adjust the knob on the right to adjust the radius, loosen the handle on the left if it restricting you from adjusting the right one.
#Make sure both knobs are secure and tightened before rolling, always start by rolling the largest radius, and work your way up from there.
#Insert the bar between the rollers.
#Turn the crank to roll the metal bar or rod.
#Start with a large radius and continue to make the radius smaller every time you roll. If you attempt to roll a small radius all at once, the rod may make a corkscrew shape instead of a circle.
#You have completed the roll when the two ends overlap each other by a couple of inches to account for the ends of the bar or rod that stay straight.

=== Demonstration ===
#Cut a 5 inch long piece of 1" x 1/8" aluminium.
#Roll the piece to the smallest possible radius. This will not be a full ring.

{{susbt:EquipmentTemplate}}

Rework Station

2019-08-27T01:39:52Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Solder Rework Station.png
|Has icondesc=Rework Station Icon
|Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png
|Has image=File:Rework Station.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Rework Station
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=
|Has make=Zephyrtronics
|Has model=ZT-2, ZT-3, ZT-1-CLS-DPU, Hakko FR-301, Quick861DW
|Has ace=Dara Klinkner;dklinkner18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:Rework Station.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Solder Rework Station.png|left|100x100px|frameless]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Rework Station is essential for fixing what you messed up during the fabrication process. Consisting of an Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, the Rework Station allows you heat up a specific area of the PCB and make modifications, whether that means adding/removing some solder on the pads, rotating a component, or completely replacing a component. Other tools are available for similar purposes, such as a desoldering gun, and an additional heat gun for larger components.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_yFDpSTfao}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:...airBath.jpg|Air Bath (ZT-1-CLS-DPU)
File:...airPencil.jpg|Air Pencil (ZT-2)
File:...airPick.jpg|Air Pick (ZT-3)
File:...desolderingGun.jpg|Desoldering Gun (Hakko FR-301)
File:...heatGun.jpg|Heat Gun (Quick861DW)
</gallery>

[http://www.zeph.com/smdpreheater.htm Zephyrtronics Airbath]

[http://www.zeph.com/pencil.html Zephyrtronics Airpencil]

[http://www.zeph.com/zt3web.htm Zephyrtronics Airpick]

[https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr301.html Hakko FR-301]

[http://www.quick-global.com/2-lead-free-rework-2.html Quick-861DW]

==Training==
====Overview====

The Airbath can heat up to 205 °C, which can be enough to melt the solder on a PCB. Solder can melt at higher temperatures than this, which can be achieved using the Air Pencil and/or Heat Gun. Essentially, the Air Bath heats up the board and the Air Pencil finishes the job by heating up the part of the board that we want to fix (because we don't want to melt the solder on the parts that are already good to go). This is where the Air Pick and tweezers come in. After heating up the part we want to fix, the tweezers are used to remove a component while the Air Pick uses a vacuum to place a component on the board. If the component is too small, using tweezers to pick up the component is also a good alternative.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Air Bath, Air Pencil, Air Pick, Desoldering Gun, and Heat Gun, the student will have a PCB prepared and perform tasks with the station as a whole. Using the Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, students will remove a SMD and solder it back on. Using the Desoldering Gun, students will remove a soldered through hole component. Using the Heat Gun, students will mount a larger SMD, solder it on, and then remove it.

====General Procedure====
# Fixing/Replacing SMD Components
## Before turning on the Air Bath, clamp the PCB on the black stand, preferably placing it so that the component you want to fix is directly above the air. You should not be able to move the board once it is clamped. Keeping it sturdy helps from accidentally moving the PCB during the reworking process.
## The Air Bath has a power switch on the left, three buttons on the right, and a screen on the right. The switch has 3 positions which allows you to choose Cool, Off, and Warm by pressing it in their respective directions. The button on the right allow you to adjust the temperature in a rather funny way. The middle button has a down arrow while the right button has an up arrow, indicating which button decreases/increases the temperature of the bath. However, you need to hold down the left button while doing so. For instance, to increase the temperature, you would hold the left and right buttons at the same time.[[File:AirBathBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
## Now you will heat up the Air Bath. Hit the Power switch on the front, and set the temperature about 20-30 °C below the solder's melting point. The melting point for your solder can be found using the table below. Voltera's Solder Paste (Orange) melts at lower temperatures than the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste (Blue). If the Voltera Solder Paste says T4 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 180 °C. If the Voltera Solder Paste says T5 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. If you are using the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. [[File:...meltingPointTable.png|none|thumb]]
## Once the board is heated, you can use the Air Pencil to heat up a specific component. The pencil blows hot air out the end. When you turn it on, adjust the settings to be 3/4 of the heat capacity and about 1/3 of the air flow. We do this because when the air flow is maximized at full temperature, it does not get hot enough to melt the solder. Too much air flow is bad.
## Hold the tip of the pencil over the SMD you want to solder/desolder, and move it slightly around the leads to allow for more distribution of heat. If it is not heating it up, try turning the heat of the pencil higher. This should allow for your SMD components solder to melt, and you will be able to pick up the component up with a pair of static-safe tweezers or the Air Pick. If you are soldering a part on, make sure to generously apply flux to the pads, and make sure all the solder sticks to the pads after heating.
## If the pencil is not doing a good enough job to heat up the component, then you may graduate to using the bigger heat gun, the Quick861DW. The same theoretical concepts apply, however, one potential downside of this is that it affects a larger area than the pencil. You may unintentionally melt the solder of components that you don't want to melt, so be extra careful my dudes.
## The Air Pick uses a vacuum to pick up and place components. Typically you would use both hands for this; one hand heats up the component with the pencil and the other grabs the component with the pick.
## On the handle of the pick there is a divot that is connected to the vacuum. When you plug the divot with your finger, it will enable it to pick up a component. When you release your finger from the divot, it will let go of the component. There are different tips that you will place on the end of the tip based on the component you want to pick up, each having a different size for varying components.
# Desoldering Through Hole Components
## For desoldering through hole components, you will want to use the Desoldering Gun. It has a hot tip that can fit over a solder joint and utilizes a vacuum when the trigger is pulled. As a result, it melts the solder and sucks it into a cartridge, completely removing the joint.
## Before using the Desoldering Gun, make sure you have the little metal stand for the gun to sit on for safety purposes. Have Solder ready nearby to tin the tip before use, and clean the tip after tinning using the wire mesh.
## On the handle of the gun there is a temperature control wheel that ranges from 1-4 (coolest to hottest). Be sure to set it to the correct temperature using the graphic below. Typically, a through hole component would require you to set the scale to 2.[[File:...SolderingGun.png|none|thumb]]
## To use the Desoldering Gun, briefly put the top over a solder joint (not completely on the PCB or you might damage it), press the trigger to enable the vacuum, and the solder should be sucked away!
## Tin the tip before cooldown, and take note that the cooldown may take a bit of time. Don't burn yourself!
==Safety==
The most important thing about all these machines: THEY GET REALLY HOT!

Be so so careful because these machines can get up to temperatures of potentially 700°F. Always be wary of where you are blowing the hot air with the air guns, so you don’t melt other things. Be wary of how hot your PCB can get, and always put the cooling setting on after you’re finished with the Air Bath before picking your PCB up, because you can burn yourself.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31372 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Suppose the solder isn't melting. Consult the temperature table in the General Procedure, chances are that you just need to make it hotter, little by little.
# Suppose the Air Pick is not picking up the component. Use the appropriate tip and make sure you are plugging the little divot to enable it to pick up. If these aren't working, resort to using tweezers.
# Suppose the components are getting blown away from the pads you want it to sit on. Well, turn down the air my dude.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Wrap all cords and make them look tidy. Make sure all devices are turned off and returned to their original place. Do not leave tweezers or extra parts laying around, put them back in the accessories drawer.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after every use
|Student
|-
|Tinning tip of Desoldeirng Gun
|Before and after every use
|Student
|}

Rework Station

2019-08-27T01:39:39Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Solder Rework Station.png
|Has icondesc=Rework Station Icon
|Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png
|Has image=File:Rework Station.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Rework Station
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=
|Has make=Zephyrtronics
|Has model=ZT-2, ZT-3, ZT-1-CLS-DPU, Hakko FR-301, Quick861DW
|Has ace=Dara Klinkner;dklinkner18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:Rework Station.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Solder Rework Station.png|left|100x100px|frameless]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}
 
 
 

__TOC__

==Description==

The Rework Station is essential for fixing what you messed up during the fabrication process. Consisting of an Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, the Rework Station allows you heat up a specific area of the PCB and make modifications, whether that means adding/removing some solder on the pads, rotating a component, or completely replacing a component. Other tools are available for similar purposes, such as a desoldering gun, and an additional heat gun for larger components.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_yFDpSTfao}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:...airBath.jpg|Air Bath (ZT-1-CLS-DPU)
File:...airPencil.jpg|Air Pencil (ZT-2)
File:...airPick.jpg|Air Pick (ZT-3)
File:...desolderingGun.jpg|Desoldering Gun (Hakko FR-301)
File:...heatGun.jpg|Heat Gun (Quick861DW)
</gallery>

[http://www.zeph.com/smdpreheater.htm Zephyrtronics Airbath]

[http://www.zeph.com/pencil.html Zephyrtronics Airpencil]

[http://www.zeph.com/zt3web.htm Zephyrtronics Airpick]

[https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr301.html Hakko FR-301]

[http://www.quick-global.com/2-lead-free-rework-2.html Quick-861DW]

==Training==
====Overview====

The Airbath can heat up to 205 °C, which can be enough to melt the solder on a PCB. Solder can melt at higher temperatures than this, which can be achieved using the Air Pencil and/or Heat Gun. Essentially, the Air Bath heats up the board and the Air Pencil finishes the job by heating up the part of the board that we want to fix (because we don't want to melt the solder on the parts that are already good to go). This is where the Air Pick and tweezers come in. After heating up the part we want to fix, the tweezers are used to remove a component while the Air Pick uses a vacuum to place a component on the board. If the component is too small, using tweezers to pick up the component is also a good alternative.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Air Bath, Air Pencil, Air Pick, Desoldering Gun, and Heat Gun, the student will have a PCB prepared and perform tasks with the station as a whole. Using the Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, students will remove a SMD and solder it back on. Using the Desoldering Gun, students will remove a soldered through hole component. Using the Heat Gun, students will mount a larger SMD, solder it on, and then remove it.

====General Procedure====
# Fixing/Replacing SMD Components
## Before turning on the Air Bath, clamp the PCB on the black stand, preferably placing it so that the component you want to fix is directly above the air. You should not be able to move the board once it is clamped. Keeping it sturdy helps from accidentally moving the PCB during the reworking process.
## The Air Bath has a power switch on the left, three buttons on the right, and a screen on the right. The switch has 3 positions which allows you to choose Cool, Off, and Warm by pressing it in their respective directions. The button on the right allow you to adjust the temperature in a rather funny way. The middle button has a down arrow while the right button has an up arrow, indicating which button decreases/increases the temperature of the bath. However, you need to hold down the left button while doing so. For instance, to increase the temperature, you would hold the left and right buttons at the same time.[[File:AirBathBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
## Now you will heat up the Air Bath. Hit the Power switch on the front, and set the temperature about 20-30 °C below the solder's melting point. The melting point for your solder can be found using the table below. Voltera's Solder Paste (Orange) melts at lower temperatures than the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste (Blue). If the Voltera Solder Paste says T4 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 180 °C. If the Voltera Solder Paste says T5 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. If you are using the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. [[File:...meltingPointTable.png|none|thumb]]
## Once the board is heated, you can use the Air Pencil to heat up a specific component. The pencil blows hot air out the end. When you turn it on, adjust the settings to be 3/4 of the heat capacity and about 1/3 of the air flow. We do this because when the air flow is maximized at full temperature, it does not get hot enough to melt the solder. Too much air flow is bad.
## Hold the tip of the pencil over the SMD you want to solder/desolder, and move it slightly around the leads to allow for more distribution of heat. If it is not heating it up, try turning the heat of the pencil higher. This should allow for your SMD components solder to melt, and you will be able to pick up the component up with a pair of static-safe tweezers or the Air Pick. If you are soldering a part on, make sure to generously apply flux to the pads, and make sure all the solder sticks to the pads after heating.
## If the pencil is not doing a good enough job to heat up the component, then you may graduate to using the bigger heat gun, the Quick861DW. The same theoretical concepts apply, however, one potential downside of this is that it affects a larger area than the pencil. You may unintentionally melt the solder of components that you don't want to melt, so be extra careful my dudes.
## The Air Pick uses a vacuum to pick up and place components. Typically you would use both hands for this; one hand heats up the component with the pencil and the other grabs the component with the pick.
## On the handle of the pick there is a divot that is connected to the vacuum. When you plug the divot with your finger, it will enable it to pick up a component. When you release your finger from the divot, it will let go of the component. There are different tips that you will place on the end of the tip based on the component you want to pick up, each having a different size for varying components.
# Desoldering Through Hole Components
## For desoldering through hole components, you will want to use the Desoldering Gun. It has a hot tip that can fit over a solder joint and utilizes a vacuum when the trigger is pulled. As a result, it melts the solder and sucks it into a cartridge, completely removing the joint.
## Before using the Desoldering Gun, make sure you have the little metal stand for the gun to sit on for safety purposes. Have Solder ready nearby to tin the tip before use, and clean the tip after tinning using the wire mesh.
## On the handle of the gun there is a temperature control wheel that ranges from 1-4 (coolest to hottest). Be sure to set it to the correct temperature using the graphic below. Typically, a through hole component would require you to set the scale to 2.[[File:...SolderingGun.png|none|thumb]]
## To use the Desoldering Gun, briefly put the top over a solder joint (not completely on the PCB or you might damage it), press the trigger to enable the vacuum, and the solder should be sucked away!
## Tin the tip before cooldown, and take note that the cooldown may take a bit of time. Don't burn yourself!
==Safety==
The most important thing about all these machines: THEY GET REALLY HOT!

Be so so careful because these machines can get up to temperatures of potentially 700°F. Always be wary of where you are blowing the hot air with the air guns, so you don’t melt other things. Be wary of how hot your PCB can get, and always put the cooling setting on after you’re finished with the Air Bath before picking your PCB up, because you can burn yourself.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31372 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Suppose the solder isn't melting. Consult the temperature table in the General Procedure, chances are that you just need to make it hotter, little by little.
# Suppose the Air Pick is not picking up the component. Use the appropriate tip and make sure you are plugging the little divot to enable it to pick up. If these aren't working, resort to using tweezers.
# Suppose the components are getting blown away from the pads you want it to sit on. Well, turn down the air my dude.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Wrap all cords and make them look tidy. Make sure all devices are turned off and returned to their original place. Do not leave tweezers or extra parts laying around, put them back in the accessories drawer.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after every use
|Student
|-
|Tinning tip of Desoldeirng Gun
|Before and after every use
|Student
|}

Reflow Oven

2019-08-27T01:39:16Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:reflow_oven_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Reflow Oven Icon
|Has image=File:protoflow.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Protoflow Reflow Oven
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=LPKF
|Has model=ProtoFlow S N2
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has ace=David Mishchenko;dmishchenko16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:Reflow oven icon.png|left|100x100px|frameless]]
[[File:....theOven.jpg|thumb|400x400px]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Reflow Oven (ProtoFlow S N2) is LPKF's premiere convection oven, ideal for lead-free reflow soldering, meeting the stringent demands of rapid PCB soldering applications. The Reflow Oven features even heat distribution, easy programming, and many pre-defined temperature profiles. The compact design and efficient power consumption make it one of the most useful components in any rapid PCB prototyping environment. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zsvn2-WkZLk}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|LCD Dispay
File:bake_go.jpg|Tray
</gallery>

* [https://www.lpkfusa.com/products/pcb_prototyping/smt_assembling/protoflow_s/ Product Home Page]
* [[Media:protoflow_datasheet.pdf|Datasheet]]

==Training==
====Overview====

The Reflow Oven bakes PCBs to harden the traces and pads where components are laid. It's just like your oven at home with a few extra accessories, like preset profiles that adjust the temperature and time based on the ink/paste you put on your board.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the oven, the student will have a PCB prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Power the Reflow Oven on by pressing the power button on the front.
# Select the respective ink/paste on the LCD Display. Different inks and pastes have different heat cycles, so it is important that you choose the right one. You can scroll through the options using the Up and Down keys. The Left key goes back, and the Right key selects. In this specific instance, V1 Ink is selected. Recall that each dispenser is assigned to a color. Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and Blue is Sn63Pb37.[[File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_ink_selection.jpg]]
# The oven will warm up. When its ready, select "Enter" to open the tray.
# '''DANGER: The rails could be HOT! Take caution.''' Place the board securely on the rails.[[File:bake_place.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_place.jpg]]
# Select "Enter" to close the tray.
# The preheat will take 2 minutes. The baking process takes about 30 minutes for traces and 3 minutes for the paste.
# The tray will automatically open to initiate the cool down phase. At the end of this process, the traces and pads will harden. '''DO NOT remove the board until the oven says all the stages are complete. DANGER: The rails are HOT!'''
# When cool down is complete, remove the board from the oven, and turn off the oven.

==Safety==
# Always follow the instructions on the LCD Display. It is your guide that keeps you safe.
# When the tray opens up after baking a board, be patient and let the board cool down. If you handle it while it is too hot, it can burn you and shift your components (not good).
# Once you are finished using the Reflow Oven, clean the inside and turn it off. '''RESET THE SPACE'''.
# If you do not want to risk being burnt by the rails when you place your board in the oven, open the tray and place your board '''BEFORE''' beginning the baking process.
# If you do get burnt, immediately place the burn under cold running cold water for a while. There is a sink to the right of the oven to help you out. This keeps it from blistering.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31371 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
There are little to no issues to run into while using the oven. The most common issue is failure to select the correct profile, which results in non-hardened traces and pads. Remember, Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and blue is SN63Pb37. If this happens, simply bake the board again using the correct profile. In the event that something happens out of the ordinary, follow the table below.

[[File:...ovenTroubleshooting.png|none|thumb]]

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The oven should always be clean. Make sure it is clean before and after use. If something is not working and needs to be fixed, refer to the table above in the Troubleshooting section.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
Refer to the table in the Troubleshooting section for advanced solutions.
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Remove Debris
|Before and after each use
|Student
|}
__TOC__

 <references />

Prusa 3D Printer

2019-08-27T01:38:44Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:prusa_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Prusa Icon
|Has iconwname=File:prusa_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:prusa_printer_image.png
|Has imagedesc=The Prusa i3 MK3 Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has make=Prusa
|Has model=i3 MK3
|Has ace=Dara Klinkner;dklinkner18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}})

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

== Description ==
The Prusa i3 MK3 is a 3D printer that includes a removable heatbed, filament sensor, and other unique features in order to rapidly prototype projects. The Prusa i3 MK3 comes in two different variants, single filament, and multi filament. It employs [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM Printing]]. The Prusa i3 MK3 is a powerful prototyping device that works best with smaller prints, with the print bed being approximately 8" x 8" x 9". The Prusa has a hard time with more complex geometric shapes, but it excels at printing smaller optimal quality models for testing and trying out products or ideas.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jizyu0nGH18}}

== Documentation ==

==== User manuals ====
* [https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ Product Home Page]
* [https://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3_en_3_04.pdf Prusa i3 MK3 Guide]

==== '''Terminology''' ====
* Nozzle/Extruder: The nozzle (or extruder) is the part of a 3D printer which deposits the molten plastic filament onto the 3D printer bed. The extruder can reach 200°-300°C, depending on the filament used, but typically stays around 215°C for regular prints.
* Heatbed: The heatbed is a 9.83" x 8.3" x 8.3" plate where the filament will be "printed" on. The bed heats up to around 60°C. Heated beds typically prevent the plastic from warping by keeping it warm. Warping is a common issue that happens on 3D printers, where the plastic of the print cools at an uneven rate, leaving the print wavy and not the way you intended.
* Feeder: The feeder is the part of the 3D printer that "feeds" the filament to the nozzle. Sometimes "feeder" and "extruder" are used synonomously, so it's important when you're teaching someone to differentiate whether or not you're talking about the ''nozzle'' extruder or the ''feeder'' extruder. Feeders are typically composed of stepper motors, gears, and sometimes bolts and pulleys to guide the filament to the hot end.
* Fan: There are usually two fans on the nozzle of a 3D printer, and they serve the purpose of cooling the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. If the plastic is super hot, we don't want it to move as soon as it is in place on the part we're making, otherwise our part will turn out warped or failed. The fans are put in place to strategically cool the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. You are able to turn the fan speeds up and down in the slicer software (if that is a provided feature), but you can manually configure it on the printer as well.
* Stepper Motor: There are two main places where you'll find stepper motors on a 3D printer. There's a motor for each axes, one for the x, y, and z. These motors receive instructions from the gcode to move the certain axes at certain points to create your print. There is also a stepper motor in the extruder setup, pushing and pulling the filament whenever more or less is needed for the current print.
* Infill: Infill has to do with a 3D print's structural integrity. It can be multiple shapes and patterns (providing different strength optimizations), different sizes, and different thicknesses. Infill ranges anywhere from 0% (hollow) to 100% (solid). It is very unlikely you'll ever want a print to be 100% infill, because it takes an insane amount of filament and a lot of time to complete. Most 3D prints are 15% infill since it is the most optimal choice for cost efficiency and durability. If your concern is cost, a lesser infill density is a good way to go. If strength and mass is important, a higher density (between 30%-50%) is a good estimate. When using a higher infill, always double check to make sure it's a good idea for your part, and that you're using the right machine. Other 3D printers in the prototype lab have the option of a stronger filament than PLA or ABS, so it may be a better idea to print for strength on those rather than the Prusas.
* Filament: There are many different kinds of filament you can use on the 3D printer, ranging from PLA, to ABS, TPU to Nylon. The most common of these are PLA and ABS; the Prusas are usually set up with PLA. PLA stands for Polylactic Acid, it is the most common desktop 3D printing filament because it is odorless and very hard to warp on its own, therefore not always a need for a heated bed. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. It's one of the most commercial versions of plastic available (found in legos, packaging, and more)--it's durable, scratch resistant, and tough. Heated beds are a must with ABS filament because it is so temperature sensitive, so it warps very easily. The Prusas use 1.75 mm filament.
* CAD Modeling and Thingiverse: There are two ways you can 3D print models. You can either design your own with a CAD (computer-aided design) software, or you can find something similar to what you want on websites like Thingiverse. Thingiverse has all sorts of community-contributed designs, which you can download the .stl files for, slice, and print the models. As for modeling your own projects, there are multiple softwares you can use such as SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Autodesk Inventor, FreeCAD, and many more.
* Slicing: Each 3D printer uses a slicer software, a software where you can import the model file (usually an .stl file) onto a computerized build plate, resize, change up the nozzle and bed temperatures, adjust the infill and precision, and more. The slicer software takes into consideration all your configurations, then "slices" it into a .gcode file, a set of instructions for the x, y, and z dimensions. The 3D printer can read and tell the stepper motors what to do from the set of instructions within the gcode. The slicer software used for the Prusa i3 MK3 is called Prusa Slicer.

== Training ==

==== Overview ====
Printing on the Prusa will always start with an STL file that you export from Solidworks or download from the internet. However, the printer cannot interpret a STL file and must be converted to a gcode file which instructs the printer on how to complete the print. The process of creating a gcode is called "slicing" and is done in the Prusa Slicer software. Prusa Slicer allows you to customize any part of the print process and is color coded to distinguish simple settings from expert settings so you can tell which settings can be adjusted without risk of messing things up. For the most part, the preset setting options will work well but feel free to experiment with settings to improve print detail or speed (check out [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kW9SnK4LKc this video] for example). After you have sliced your STL file the rest of the setup is simple. Save the new gcode to the SD card found in the printer, turn on the machine, select "print from SD card" to find your file, and then click to start the print. Make sure to clean the print bed with isopropyl alcohol before the print starts and watch the print for the first five minutes to make sure it doesn't fail. Also, the video below walks through the setup process in detail starting from downloading a stl file which is helpful.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ttg2wEjD784&list=PLP1rv37BojTfJ5TjDXiSNqDnEPnvChsYZ&index=11}}

==== Demonstration ====
The student will need download, setup, and successfully start a print of their choice, providing it is within reason and follows Prototype Lab guidelines. If possible, they should stay as long as possible in case a print fails, which will be an opportunity to teach them basic troubleshooting of the machine.

==== General Procedure ====
Setting up a print:
# Once you have a model you would like to print (which you can find on either thingiverse or model one yourself), you will be using a software called Prusa Slicer to slice your .stl files into a .gcode file, which the printer will interpret and print your model from.
# Open Prusa Slicer. When you open Prusa Slicer, it looks like this:[[File:Slicer Home.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]At the top, you have your basic toolbar where you can import files and fine tune print settings. The toolbar on the left side of the screen is used for rotating/orienting, moving, scaling, and even cutting the model. The window on the right side of the screen is used to select the printer being used and select preset print settings. You can also choose between simple, advanced, and expert settings in this window. Feel free to select any of these modes. Throughout the software each setting is color coded to match these skill levels to make it easy to tell which settings are simplest to adjust.
#To import your file, click on "File > Import > Import STL", and you'll be presented with your file system to choose whatever model you have ready. Click "open" to import the file.
#Once the model is imported you will need to orient it correctly. The toolbar on the left has two options for doing this. One is the basic rotate tool which allows you to rotate a specific number of degrees around any axis. You can drag the model with this tool as well but this is not advised because you may not line the face up with the print bed properly which may result in print errors. If you do not know the rotation angle you need use the second option, place on face, to rotate one face of your model to match the print bed. The correct orientation will change based on your model so make sure to check out the short video below for some tips.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGhgaypou6E&list=PLTCCNNvHC8PDR_jQy609toqq8EAfhiOOL&index=26}}
#Set the rest of the object setting using the left toolbar.
#* In the Position settings, you can adjust where on the printer bed you would like your print to start. Due to automatic bed leveling, the center of the printer bed is always the best place to put your model. If you are printing multiple parts, then arrange everything from the center outwards. You can click and drag your model around and see the change in the X and Y coordinates, and if you need it to be super precise, you can use the keyboard to change the values in the Position settings.
#* Scale is important, it determines how large you want your print to be. If you modeled your print to specific dimensions, Prusa Slicer will import it with the correct dimensions, and you can skip this section. If it is too large, you can scale the model down to 70%-90% and see how that affects the size, and vice versa, changing the scale to 110%-130% if need be.
#Set the correct printer settings.
#* Below is the settings you'll most likely be working with, such as the material, quality, infill, support, and sizing.[[File:Basic Settings.png|none|thumb]]On the Prusa's, we currently only use PLA, so we'll always be keeping the Material option as Prusa PLA.
#* The quality of the print has to do with the size of each individual layer. The finer the quality, the longer the time is to print your model. Almost always you'll want your print to be Optimal quality (0.15mm), since about all prints turn out good with that setting, but you can choose from several other presets as well. A smaller layer height will allow for more definition in the vertical plane but will take longer to print. Each layer height has a preset for fast and quality that you can choose from based on your print needs. If you are feeling adventurous then the pint and printer settings can be individually adjusted instead of using a preset.
#* Next, you'll change the infill. If you don't know how much infill you need, check out the definition of infill above or talk to the supervisor for help. This option will almost always stay at 15% infill.
#* Now we come to support! Support is extra material printed around your model to support tougher geometric angles and overhangs that the printer can't get to on its own. It is easily torn off at the end of the print.
#* The Brim option is for bed adhesion. You will typically want this option, since it helps prevent the warping of the part you are printing. A brim is most important for prints that have a small surface area that is in contact with the plate.
# When all those settings are complete, you can click "Slice now" in the bottom right corner, and Slicer will give you a time and filament estimate for your print. If they seem reasonable, you can save the newly "sliced" .gcode file to the SD card that will go into the printer! Do this by clicking "Export G code." You can always go back and adjust the settings to fit your time and/or filament needs before saving the file.
Starting a Print:
# Thoroughly clean the build plate with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel.
# Once you have the gcode file on the SD card, put the SD card into the Prusa (on the left side of the orange menu), and turn the printer on using the power switch on the left side of the printer. The printer will read the SD card and initialize itself, then you can start.
# In the menu, there is an option you want called "Print from SD Card" that will take you to a list of all the .gcode files on the SD card. Select this by rotating the knob until this option is highlighted and then press down on the knob.
# Search until you find your file, and then select it.
# Make sure there is enough filament on the printer for your print, or it will fail midway!
# Naturally, the printer will set itself up for PLA settings, which is approximately 215°C for the extruder, and 60°C for the heated bed. This will take a few minutes. Often filament will start oozing out of the nozzle once it is fully heated, but don't worry, the printer will clean off the filament after calibration. If these temperatures are not correct, click to open a menu and the scroll to the "Tune" option. From there the temperatures can be adjusted.
# Make sure that there are no filament strings attached to the nozzle as the print is starting.
# Watch the print for at least 5 minutes to make sure it adheres properly and then every 5 minutes for the next 20 minutes.
Finishing a Print:
# When the print completes successfully, the Prusa will delightfully present the print by moving the print bed forward, and the extruder will go back to the homing location. On the menu screen it will display how long the last print took, and the other normal settings like the temperature of the print bed and nozzle.
# To get the print off of the bed, take the magnetic steel bed off and bend it just slightly to pop the brim of the print off of the bed. From there you can take the print off carefully by hand.
# If the print was successful, congratulations! If not, time to diagnose the problem and try again.
# Put the magnetic bed back onto the Prusa, and if there are no more prints needing to be done, power it off.
Loading New Filament:
# When the printer runs out of filament, typically you'll want to find a shop aid to help you change the filament.
# All you need to do is go to the menu, select the "Unload Filament" option, and the printer should start heating up.
# Once it heats up, it'll unload the filament and you can pull it out of the extruder.
# As for loading new filament, find the option in the menu labelled "Autoload Filament", and the printer will walk you through the instructions for loading the new spool of filament.
Pausing or Stopping a Print:
# To pause a print in the middle of the job, press the knob and it'll pull up a printing menu. There are two options near the bottom, "Stop Print" and "Pause Print". If the print is failing, you definitely want to stop it. If you need to change filament or think you can save the print before it fails anymore, you can pause the print.

== Safety ==
* Be careful what you touch; the nozzle and filament leaving it are over 200°C which will easily cause burns. Although only 60°C, the build plate should not be touched during printing.
* Keep hands away from the travel rods because they will pinch fingers with ease.
* Support material can be sharp so be careful when removing it.

== Certification ==
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31283 Prusa FoxTALE Course]

== Troubleshooting ==
Here are some ways your print can fail in the beginning, and how to troubleshoot it:
* '''Brim is pulled off of bed and dragged around by the nozzle:''' If it's just starting the brim of the print and having trouble adhering to the bed, you can pull off the first few rounds of the brim and let the print continue. Sometimes the outer part of the brim has more trouble adhering than the inner parts. If it continues to fail, stop the print. Make sure you have the best orientation possible for your part, make sure the nozzle of the printer is clean, and try starting the print again. If it continues to fail, find a supervisor to help you.
* '''Parts of the print detach mid-print:''' Stop the print. Often if parts of the print detach from the model it is due to failure to adhere to support. Ask a supervisor if the geometry of your part is too complex for the Prusas. If not, adjust the sizing, change around some support settings, and try the print again. If it continues to fail, try to break the part into smaller prints and assemble them when done.
* '''Extruded filament is too thin/not adhering to layers OR Filament will not come out of nozzle:''' When the filament is too thin or not coming out, there is often a blockage or small piece of filament in the extruder. Ask a supervisor for help.
* '''Print will not adhere to bed:''' If your 3D print will not adhere to the bed after lots of tries, the last resort can be some glue stick. For trickier prints with small bases, sometimes this is the trick. Always make sure you try the brim option before using the glue stick on the printer. When the print is finished, clean off the printer bed.
* '''Support fails:''' If the support gets really stringy as the print continues and in turn fails the print, see if you can have a supervisor help you change the density of the support. Double check that the printer is not shaking too much as you print your model. If you still don't know what to do after your print fails, ask a supervisor.
* '''First layer of print warps:''' If the first layer of your print warps and affects the rest of your print, lower the bed temperature, and start the print again. If it continues to warp, try adding some adhesive on the printer bed.
If your issue or error is not found here, ask the supervisor for help, or you can research on this website: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#section-fdm-3d-printing-problems-my-print-failed

Failed Calibration:

If the printer fails while calibrating, there will be an error message that suggests you clean the nozzle off and retry the print.

Crash Detected:

When the nozzle hits something it's not used to, such as an obstruction in the print, the print bed, or something else that stops the extruder from moving, the printer will error and say it crashed. It will ask you to clean off any excess filament and stuff that gets in the way of the extruder. If it continues to fail because of a crash, ask a supervisor for help.

== Maintenance ==

==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|1
|Wiping Down Buildplate
|Before every new print
|Student
|-
|2
|Cleaning of Nozzle
|When needed
|Ace
|-
|3
|Clean and lubricate travel rods
|When needed
|Ace
|}
# Grab a paper towel from the sink and the isopropyl alcohol from next to the Formlabs printer. Use these to wipe down the build plate and make sure you do not touch the plate after doing this because that will get oils on it.
# Raise the print head in the z axis until the nozzle is easily accessible. Use tweezers, paper towels, isopropyl alcohol, or any other substances to remove filament from the nozzle. If the nozzle is clogged, use a wrench to remove it and clean out any filament inside. A heat gun may be helpful for this.
# Wipe down the smooth travel rods with a paper towel and then re-lubricate them. Clean the threaded rods with a brush and then re-lubricate them.

Prusa 3D Printer

2019-08-27T01:38:19Z

Youngj17:

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__TOC__

== Description ==
The Prusa i3 MK3 is a 3D printer that includes a removable heatbed, filament sensor, and other unique features in order to rapidly prototype projects. The Prusa i3 MK3 comes in two different variants, single filament, and multi filament. It employs [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM Printing]]. The Prusa i3 MK3 is a powerful prototyping device that works best with smaller prints, with the print bed being approximately 8" x 8" x 9". The Prusa has a hard time with more complex geometric shapes, but it excels at printing smaller optimal quality models for testing and trying out products or ideas.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jizyu0nGH18}}

== Documentation ==

==== User manuals ====
* [https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ Product Home Page]
* [https://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3_en_3_04.pdf Prusa i3 MK3 Guide]

==== '''Terminology''' ====
* Nozzle/Extruder: The nozzle (or extruder) is the part of a 3D printer which deposits the molten plastic filament onto the 3D printer bed. The extruder can reach 200°-300°C, depending on the filament used, but typically stays around 215°C for regular prints.
* Heatbed: The heatbed is a 9.83" x 8.3" x 8.3" plate where the filament will be "printed" on. The bed heats up to around 60°C. Heated beds typically prevent the plastic from warping by keeping it warm. Warping is a common issue that happens on 3D printers, where the plastic of the print cools at an uneven rate, leaving the print wavy and not the way you intended.
* Feeder: The feeder is the part of the 3D printer that "feeds" the filament to the nozzle. Sometimes "feeder" and "extruder" are used synonomously, so it's important when you're teaching someone to differentiate whether or not you're talking about the ''nozzle'' extruder or the ''feeder'' extruder. Feeders are typically composed of stepper motors, gears, and sometimes bolts and pulleys to guide the filament to the hot end.
* Fan: There are usually two fans on the nozzle of a 3D printer, and they serve the purpose of cooling the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. If the plastic is super hot, we don't want it to move as soon as it is in place on the part we're making, otherwise our part will turn out warped or failed. The fans are put in place to strategically cool the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. You are able to turn the fan speeds up and down in the slicer software (if that is a provided feature), but you can manually configure it on the printer as well.
* Stepper Motor: There are two main places where you'll find stepper motors on a 3D printer. There's a motor for each axes, one for the x, y, and z. These motors receive instructions from the gcode to move the certain axes at certain points to create your print. There is also a stepper motor in the extruder setup, pushing and pulling the filament whenever more or less is needed for the current print.
* Infill: Infill has to do with a 3D print's structural integrity. It can be multiple shapes and patterns (providing different strength optimizations), different sizes, and different thicknesses. Infill ranges anywhere from 0% (hollow) to 100% (solid). It is very unlikely you'll ever want a print to be 100% infill, because it takes an insane amount of filament and a lot of time to complete. Most 3D prints are 15% infill since it is the most optimal choice for cost efficiency and durability. If your concern is cost, a lesser infill density is a good way to go. If strength and mass is important, a higher density (between 30%-50%) is a good estimate. When using a higher infill, always double check to make sure it's a good idea for your part, and that you're using the right machine. Other 3D printers in the prototype lab have the option of a stronger filament than PLA or ABS, so it may be a better idea to print for strength on those rather than the Prusas.
* Filament: There are many different kinds of filament you can use on the 3D printer, ranging from PLA, to ABS, TPU to Nylon. The most common of these are PLA and ABS; the Prusas are usually set up with PLA. PLA stands for Polylactic Acid, it is the most common desktop 3D printing filament because it is odorless and very hard to warp on its own, therefore not always a need for a heated bed. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. It's one of the most commercial versions of plastic available (found in legos, packaging, and more)--it's durable, scratch resistant, and tough. Heated beds are a must with ABS filament because it is so temperature sensitive, so it warps very easily. The Prusas use 1.75 mm filament.
* CAD Modeling and Thingiverse: There are two ways you can 3D print models. You can either design your own with a CAD (computer-aided design) software, or you can find something similar to what you want on websites like Thingiverse. Thingiverse has all sorts of community-contributed designs, which you can download the .stl files for, slice, and print the models. As for modeling your own projects, there are multiple softwares you can use such as SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Autodesk Inventor, FreeCAD, and many more.
* Slicing: Each 3D printer uses a slicer software, a software where you can import the model file (usually an .stl file) onto a computerized build plate, resize, change up the nozzle and bed temperatures, adjust the infill and precision, and more. The slicer software takes into consideration all your configurations, then "slices" it into a .gcode file, a set of instructions for the x, y, and z dimensions. The 3D printer can read and tell the stepper motors what to do from the set of instructions within the gcode. The slicer software used for the Prusa i3 MK3 is called Prusa Slicer.

== Training ==

==== Overview ====
Printing on the Prusa will always start with an STL file that you export from Solidworks or download from the internet. However, the printer cannot interpret a STL file and must be converted to a gcode file which instructs the printer on how to complete the print. The process of creating a gcode is called "slicing" and is done in the Prusa Slicer software. Prusa Slicer allows you to customize any part of the print process and is color coded to distinguish simple settings from expert settings so you can tell which settings can be adjusted without risk of messing things up. For the most part, the preset setting options will work well but feel free to experiment with settings to improve print detail or speed (check out [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kW9SnK4LKc this video] for example). After you have sliced your STL file the rest of the setup is simple. Save the new gcode to the SD card found in the printer, turn on the machine, select "print from SD card" to find your file, and then click to start the print. Make sure to clean the print bed with isopropyl alcohol before the print starts and watch the print for the first five minutes to make sure it doesn't fail. Also, the video below walks through the setup process in detail starting from downloading a stl file which is helpful.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ttg2wEjD784&list=PLP1rv37BojTfJ5TjDXiSNqDnEPnvChsYZ&index=11}}

==== Demonstration ====
The student will need download, setup, and successfully start a print of their choice, providing it is within reason and follows Prototype Lab guidelines. If possible, they should stay as long as possible in case a print fails, which will be an opportunity to teach them basic troubleshooting of the machine.

==== General Procedure ====
Setting up a print:
# Once you have a model you would like to print (which you can find on either thingiverse or model one yourself), you will be using a software called Prusa Slicer to slice your .stl files into a .gcode file, which the printer will interpret and print your model from.
# Open Prusa Slicer. When you open Prusa Slicer, it looks like this:[[File:Slicer Home.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]At the top, you have your basic toolbar where you can import files and fine tune print settings. The toolbar on the left side of the screen is used for rotating/orienting, moving, scaling, and even cutting the model. The window on the right side of the screen is used to select the printer being used and select preset print settings. You can also choose between simple, advanced, and expert settings in this window. Feel free to select any of these modes. Throughout the software each setting is color coded to match these skill levels to make it easy to tell which settings are simplest to adjust.
#To import your file, click on "File > Import > Import STL", and you'll be presented with your file system to choose whatever model you have ready. Click "open" to import the file.
#Once the model is imported you will need to orient it correctly. The toolbar on the left has two options for doing this. One is the basic rotate tool which allows you to rotate a specific number of degrees around any axis. You can drag the model with this tool as well but this is not advised because you may not line the face up with the print bed properly which may result in print errors. If you do not know the rotation angle you need use the second option, place on face, to rotate one face of your model to match the print bed. The correct orientation will change based on your model so make sure to check out the short video below for some tips.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGhgaypou6E&list=PLTCCNNvHC8PDR_jQy609toqq8EAfhiOOL&index=26}}
#Set the rest of the object setting using the left toolbar.
#* In the Position settings, you can adjust where on the printer bed you would like your print to start. Due to automatic bed leveling, the center of the printer bed is always the best place to put your model. If you are printing multiple parts, then arrange everything from the center outwards. You can click and drag your model around and see the change in the X and Y coordinates, and if you need it to be super precise, you can use the keyboard to change the values in the Position settings.
#* Scale is important, it determines how large you want your print to be. If you modeled your print to specific dimensions, Prusa Slicer will import it with the correct dimensions, and you can skip this section. If it is too large, you can scale the model down to 70%-90% and see how that affects the size, and vice versa, changing the scale to 110%-130% if need be.
#Set the correct printer settings.
#* Below is the settings you'll most likely be working with, such as the material, quality, infill, support, and sizing.[[File:Basic Settings.png|none|thumb]]On the Prusa's, we currently only use PLA, so we'll always be keeping the Material option as Prusa PLA.
#* The quality of the print has to do with the size of each individual layer. The finer the quality, the longer the time is to print your model. Almost always you'll want your print to be Optimal quality (0.15mm), since about all prints turn out good with that setting, but you can choose from several other presets as well. A smaller layer height will allow for more definition in the vertical plane but will take longer to print. Each layer height has a preset for fast and quality that you can choose from based on your print needs. If you are feeling adventurous then the pint and printer settings can be individually adjusted instead of using a preset.
#* Next, you'll change the infill. If you don't know how much infill you need, check out the definition of infill above or talk to the supervisor for help. This option will almost always stay at 15% infill.
#* Now we come to support! Support is extra material printed around your model to support tougher geometric angles and overhangs that the printer can't get to on its own. It is easily torn off at the end of the print.
#* The Brim option is for bed adhesion. You will typically want this option, since it helps prevent the warping of the part you are printing. A brim is most important for prints that have a small surface area that is in contact with the plate.
# When all those settings are complete, you can click "Slice now" in the bottom right corner, and Slicer will give you a time and filament estimate for your print. If they seem reasonable, you can save the newly "sliced" .gcode file to the SD card that will go into the printer! Do this by clicking "Export G code." You can always go back and adjust the settings to fit your time and/or filament needs before saving the file.
Starting a Print:
# Thoroughly clean the build plate with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel.
# Once you have the gcode file on the SD card, put the SD card into the Prusa (on the left side of the orange menu), and turn the printer on using the power switch on the left side of the printer. The printer will read the SD card and initialize itself, then you can start.
# In the menu, there is an option you want called "Print from SD Card" that will take you to a list of all the .gcode files on the SD card. Select this by rotating the knob until this option is highlighted and then press down on the knob.
# Search until you find your file, and then select it.
# Make sure there is enough filament on the printer for your print, or it will fail midway!
# Naturally, the printer will set itself up for PLA settings, which is approximately 215°C for the extruder, and 60°C for the heated bed. This will take a few minutes. Often filament will start oozing out of the nozzle once it is fully heated, but don't worry, the printer will clean off the filament after calibration. If these temperatures are not correct, click to open a menu and the scroll to the "Tune" option. From there the temperatures can be adjusted.
# Make sure that there are no filament strings attached to the nozzle as the print is starting.
# Watch the print for at least 5 minutes to make sure it adheres properly and then every 5 minutes for the next 20 minutes.
Finishing a Print:
# When the print completes successfully, the Prusa will delightfully present the print by moving the print bed forward, and the extruder will go back to the homing location. On the menu screen it will display how long the last print took, and the other normal settings like the temperature of the print bed and nozzle.
# To get the print off of the bed, take the magnetic steel bed off and bend it just slightly to pop the brim of the print off of the bed. From there you can take the print off carefully by hand.
# If the print was successful, congratulations! If not, time to diagnose the problem and try again.
# Put the magnetic bed back onto the Prusa, and if there are no more prints needing to be done, power it off.
Loading New Filament:
# When the printer runs out of filament, typically you'll want to find a shop aid to help you change the filament.
# All you need to do is go to the menu, select the "Unload Filament" option, and the printer should start heating up.
# Once it heats up, it'll unload the filament and you can pull it out of the extruder.
# As for loading new filament, find the option in the menu labelled "Autoload Filament", and the printer will walk you through the instructions for loading the new spool of filament.
Pausing or Stopping a Print:
# To pause a print in the middle of the job, press the knob and it'll pull up a printing menu. There are two options near the bottom, "Stop Print" and "Pause Print". If the print is failing, you definitely want to stop it. If you need to change filament or think you can save the print before it fails anymore, you can pause the print.

== Safety ==
* Be careful what you touch; the nozzle and filament leaving it are over 200°C which will easily cause burns. Although only 60°C, the build plate should not be touched during printing.
* Keep hands away from the travel rods because they will pinch fingers with ease.
* Support material can be sharp so be careful when removing it.

== Certification ==
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31283 Prusa FoxTALE Course]

== Troubleshooting ==
Here are some ways your print can fail in the beginning, and how to troubleshoot it:
* '''Brim is pulled off of bed and dragged around by the nozzle:''' If it's just starting the brim of the print and having trouble adhering to the bed, you can pull off the first few rounds of the brim and let the print continue. Sometimes the outer part of the brim has more trouble adhering than the inner parts. If it continues to fail, stop the print. Make sure you have the best orientation possible for your part, make sure the nozzle of the printer is clean, and try starting the print again. If it continues to fail, find a supervisor to help you.
* '''Parts of the print detach mid-print:''' Stop the print. Often if parts of the print detach from the model it is due to failure to adhere to support. Ask a supervisor if the geometry of your part is too complex for the Prusas. If not, adjust the sizing, change around some support settings, and try the print again. If it continues to fail, try to break the part into smaller prints and assemble them when done.
* '''Extruded filament is too thin/not adhering to layers OR Filament will not come out of nozzle:''' When the filament is too thin or not coming out, there is often a blockage or small piece of filament in the extruder. Ask a supervisor for help.
* '''Print will not adhere to bed:''' If your 3D print will not adhere to the bed after lots of tries, the last resort can be some glue stick. For trickier prints with small bases, sometimes this is the trick. Always make sure you try the brim option before using the glue stick on the printer. When the print is finished, clean off the printer bed.
* '''Support fails:''' If the support gets really stringy as the print continues and in turn fails the print, see if you can have a supervisor help you change the density of the support. Double check that the printer is not shaking too much as you print your model. If you still don't know what to do after your print fails, ask a supervisor.
* '''First layer of print warps:''' If the first layer of your print warps and affects the rest of your print, lower the bed temperature, and start the print again. If it continues to warp, try adding some adhesive on the printer bed.
If your issue or error is not found here, ask the supervisor for help, or you can research on this website: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#section-fdm-3d-printing-problems-my-print-failed

Failed Calibration:

If the printer fails while calibrating, there will be an error message that suggests you clean the nozzle off and retry the print.

Crash Detected:

When the nozzle hits something it's not used to, such as an obstruction in the print, the print bed, or something else that stops the extruder from moving, the printer will error and say it crashed. It will ask you to clean off any excess filament and stuff that gets in the way of the extruder. If it continues to fail because of a crash, ask a supervisor for help.

== Maintenance ==

==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|1
|Wiping Down Buildplate
|Before every new print
|Student
|-
|2
|Cleaning of Nozzle
|When needed
|Ace
|-
|3
|Clean and lubricate travel rods
|When needed
|Ace
|}
# Grab a paper towel from the sink and the isopropyl alcohol from next to the Formlabs printer. Use these to wipe down the build plate and make sure you do not touch the plate after doing this because that will get oils on it.
# Raise the print head in the z axis until the nozzle is easily accessible. Use tweezers, paper towels, isopropyl alcohol, or any other substances to remove filament from the nozzle. If the nozzle is clogged, use a wrench to remove it and clean out any filament inside. A heat gun may be helpful for this.
# Wipe down the smooth travel rods with a paper towel and then re-lubricate them. Clean the threaded rods with a brush and then re-lubricate them.

Power Carver

2019-08-27T01:37:49Z

Youngj17:

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Foxtale Quiz

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Plasma Cutter

2019-08-27T01:37:01Z

Youngj17:

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==Description==

Miller Spectrum® 875 Plasma Cutter with 20 foot XT60 torch has compact size but 60 amps of output power.

It features easy operator controls, for optimum cutting and gouging performance.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

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==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

[https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/o242880c_mil.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

# Place fume hood over the area you will be welding at
# Turn air on
# Turn plasma cutter on
# Attach ground clamp
# Measure thickness of material being cut and refer to chart for current setting on machine
# Set the current on the plasma cutter
# Place the drag shield on the edge of the base metal, or hold ⅛ inch off the surface. Direct the arc straight down.
# Raise the trigger lock and press the trigger, this will engage the pilot arc
# Once the cutting starts, begin to slowly move the torch across the metal
# Adjust your speed so the sparks go thru the metal and out the bottom of the cut
# At the end of the cut, angle the torch slightly towards the final edge or pause briefly before releasing the trigger
# Turn off machine
# Turn off air
# Disconnect ground clamp

==Safety==
# Don't cut lead, zinc, copper, cadmium, stainless, or beryllium.
# Don't attempt to cut with the oxygen off
# Don’t cut with the vent hood off

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Plasma Cutter

2019-08-27T01:35:59Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Welding Shop
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Plasma cutter.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:plas.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Miller
|Has model=Spectrum 875
|Has ace=Jack Ellis;jellis18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Miller Spectrum® 875 Plasma Cutter with 20 foot XT60 torch has compact size but 60 amps of output power.

It features easy operator controls, for optimum cutting and gouging performance.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual
https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/o242880c_mil.pdf

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

# Place fume hood over the area you will be welding at
# Turn air on
# Turn plasma cutter on
# Attach ground clamp
# Measure thickness of material being cut and refer to chart for current setting on machine
# Set the current on the plasma cutter
# Place the drag shield on the edge of the base metal, or hold ⅛ inch off the surface. Direct the arc straight down.
# Raise the trigger lock and press the trigger, this will engage the pilot arc
# Once the cutting starts, begin to slowly move the torch across the metal
# Adjust your speed so the sparks go thru the metal and out the bottom of the cut
# At the end of the cut, angle the torch slightly towards the final edge or pause briefly before releasing the trigger
# Turn off machine
# Turn off air
# Disconnect ground clamp

==Safety==
# Don't cut lead, zinc, copper, cadmium, stainless, or beryllium.
# Don't attempt to cut with the oxygen off
# Don’t cut with the vent hood off

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Plasma Cutter

2019-08-27T01:34:43Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Welding Shop
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Plasma cutter.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:plas.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Miller
|Has model=Spectrum 875
|Has ace=Jack Ellis;jellis18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Miller Spectrum® 875 Plasma Cutter with 20 foot XT60 torch has compact size but 60 amps of output power.

It features easy operator controls, for optimum cutting and gouging performance.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

= Documentation: =
https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/o242880c_mil.pdf

= Procedures: =
# Place fume hood over the area you will be welding at
# Turn air on
# Turn plasma cutter on
# Attach ground clamp
# Measure thickness of material being cut and refer to chart for current setting on machine
# Set the current on the plasma cutter
# Place the drag shield on the edge of the base metal, or hold ⅛ inch off the surface. Direct the arc straight down.
# Raise the trigger lock and press the trigger, this will engage the pilot arc
# Once the cutting starts, begin to slowly move the torch across the metal
# Adjust your speed so the sparks go thru the metal and out the bottom of the cut
# At the end of the cut, angle the torch slightly towards the final edge or pause briefly before releasing the trigger
# Turn off machine
# Turn off air
# Disconnect ground clamp

= Warnings: =
# Don't cut lead, zinc, copper, cadmium, stainless, or beryllium.
# Don't attempt to cut with the oxygen off
# Don’t cut with the vent hood off

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Planer

2019-08-27T01:32:06Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:planer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Planer icon
|Has iconwname=File:planer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:planer.png
|Has imagedesc=Powermatic Planer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Powermatic
|Has model=209HH
|Has ace=Logan Hanbey;lhanbey17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Powermatic planer contains a 5HP motor and 20" planing capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 5" dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. <ref>Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Powermatic].</ref>
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch. This heavy duty planer offers performance and value, loaded with standard features not found on other machines in its class. The powerful 5HP motor and 20" planing capacity will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 5" dust port connects easily to any dust collector. The anti-kickback fingers and pressure bar are located in close proximity to the cutterhead for an exceptional finish. The solid cast iron base, table and head are designed for production. The 2-speed oil bath gearbox transmits full power to feed rollers and facilitates fast speed changes at 24 and 31 FPM. The gearbox can be changed to 4-speed with the included gear to run lower speeds of 16 and 20 FPM. The corrugated infeed and fine groove outfeed rollers ensure a smooth feed. The precision ground and polished cast iron table rides on four steel columns giving it plenty of support for the larger workpiece. Heavy cast iron extension wings ensure a flat, smooth cut.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcGqyujNYlM}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRK0yW4CcWs}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
[[File:...Planer.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]

[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Vendor Website]

==Training==
====Overview====

The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch. It is super useful for make smooth surfaces without taking off much of the board.

====Demonstration====

The demonstration for this machine will be to plane both sides of scrap piece of wood from the woodshop. It would be preferable to use a piece of would that is warped in some way to understand the process of planning each side.

====General Procedure====
# Connect and turn the one of the dust collectors (shown below) on so we can keep the place clean. Ensure that the restriction plate is “out”.<gallery>
File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg|Small Dust Collector
File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg|Large Dust Collector
</gallery>
# The planer has two feed speeds, typically, the 24 fpm is used whenever possible. For softwood, the 31 FPM setting can be used.
# Before turning machine on, adjust wheel to feed in work piece and adjust wheel back down to fit snuggly.
# Remove piece and adjust wheel to trim desired amount off of work piece.
# Do not attempt to remove more than 1/16” per pass (one turn). Do not over load motor. Multiple passes result in less tear-out and are easier on the machine.
# Always determine the thickness of the thickest part of the board and adjust planer to match this thickness.
# Do not attempt to pass stock less than 12” in length through the planer.
# Turn the Thickness Planer on and wait until it has reached full speed before starting to plane your stock.
# Only plane one piece of stock at a time. Stand to the side of the stock and feed it into the infeed opening. Let go of the stock when the roller takes hold of it.
# Always plane with the grain, never perpendicular to grain (i.e., feed boards lengthwise, not width-wise).
# Never attempt to force feed the planer; always allow stock to move through under the force of the feed roller only.
# Stock will sometimes “hang” (or stop moving forward). Causes and solutions are:
## The pressure bar is causing too much pressure on the wood. To fix, simply raise the pressure bar lever slightly and your stock should continue on its path. When it starts moving again, gently put the pressure bar lever back down.
## The feed control may have slipped. Simply push it all the way to the right.
## The table is too high (not adjusted to the proper height). This should NOT happen since you’re supposed to measure the stock and then make table adjustment according to your needs.
# Never attempt to reverse feed stock. The motor turns one direction and will try to spit it right back at you.
# Be careful not to let your fingers become pinched between stock and table. It will hurt a lot.
# If stock is real long, get help holding it while you feed it into the infeed opening. Ensure your helper is standing to the side of the stock and NOT behind it.
# Keep your full attention on the stock, the controls, and where your hands/fingers are while you plane.
# After half of the stock has entered the planer, walk around back and hold the end up as the rest of the stock comes out of the machine. Do not pull the stock out; simply allow the machine to push it toward you. Adjust the pressure bar lever if needed.
# Do NOT plane to a thickness less than 3/8”.
# Listen to the sound the planer makes as it’s operating. If something doesn’t sound right, turn the Thickness Planer off and notify the shop aid.
# Always turn the Thickness Planer off and wait until it stops moving before making any adjustments.
# When finished working with the Thickness Planer, turn the machine off and remain in the work zone until it stops moving.
# Clean off the infeed table so that the next users’ stock will be able to make contact directly with the table instead of being raised up slightly by the chips left after you’re finished planing.
# Turn off and disconnect the dust collector.

==Safety==
# '''NEVER''' allow your hands/fingers to enter the infeed opening. Unless it you want to lose a finger and try to win some lawsuit money. It won't work, you'll lose. Be safe kids.
# '''NEVER''' turn on the Thickness Planer with stock inside the infeed opening. No good. Be safe kids.
# '''NEVER''' bend down to look into a planer while it is running. Unless it you want to potentially lose an eye and try to win some lawsuit money. It won't work, you'll lose. Be safe kids.
# '''NEVER''' open top when machine is running. Unless it you want to potentially lose something and try to win some lawsuit money. It won't work, you'll lose. Be safe kids.
# '''NEVER''' put your finger in a knot hole while operating the Thickness Planer. Unless it you want to lose a finger and try to win some lawsuit money. It won't work, you'll lose. Be safe kids.

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==
# If the Planer seems to be missing a spot on your board, then it is likely that you have a chipped blade. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.
# If the Planer does not seem to be cutting smoothly, then it is likely that the blade is getting dull. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

General and specific tasks need to take place to maintain machinery. Specific tasks are listed below

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Work area around machine marked off clearly
|Before and after each use
|Student and Ace
|-
|Non-skid floor strips in area where operator normally stands
|Before and after each use
|Student
|-
|Clean with dust collectors and remove gum/pitch with with oven cleaner
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Lubricate appropriate places with a good grade non-hardening grease
|When needed
|Ace
|-
|Clean Table surface. If rusted, use If rusted, use paste mixture of household ammonia, a good commercial detergent and 000 steel wool. Wash surface down with hot, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly. Coat surface with talcum powder, rubbing briskly into surface with a clean blackboard eraser.
|Before and after each use
|Student and Ace
|-
|Check blade condition, should be sharp and free of nicks or grooves
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check belt condition. Replace as needed. Dress with belt dressing. Check belt tension
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check motor for loose wiring and sawdust congestion, pulleys tight and in line.
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check bearings. Replace any bad or suspect bearings immediately.
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check leveling of extension tables with main table.
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|}
[[File:...planerMaintainance.png|none|thumb|610x610px]]
<references />

Pick and Place

2019-08-27T01:31:04Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=true
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Pick & place icon.png
|Has icondesc=Pick and Place icon
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Pick_&_place.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Pick and Place Machine
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=LPKF
|Has model=Protoplace S
|Has ace=Keola Macloves;kmacloves16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

Pick & Place (Protoplace S) is a semi-automatic pick & place system for the professional assembly of Surface Mount Technology (SMT) printed circuit board prototypes and small batch projects. It is capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives, but we typically use it just for placing minuscule components on PCBs.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maV2KG8O29A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
# Micro-Table
## This clamps PCBs as large as 297mm x 420mm (11.8” x 16.5”). Knobs at the front of the micro-table allow for fine adjustments along the X and Y axes, which are ideal for the placement of complex components.
# Manipulator
## The manipulator is what picks & places components. It is also capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives with the dispenser attachment, however, we will not use these features. The manipulator is can reach everywhere on the micro-table that will be needed for projects, including the turntable. The manipulator uses the vacuum and appropriate needle attachment in order to pick & place components.
# Manipulator Knob
## The knob above the box on the manipulator rotates the nozzle; so it rotates components sucked on the knob.
# Turntable
## The turntable is what houses the components used in the project. The turntable can be controlled using the keyboard and LCD display.
# Micro Camera and Monitor
## The micro camera captures the end of the nozzle so that you can view (on the monitor) an accurate representation of where the component will be placed.
[[File:Pick And Place.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]

[https://www.lpkfusa.com/datasheets/prototyping/ProtoPlace%20S%20Specifications%20'16.pdf Pick and Place Datasheet]

[http://www.tabe.ru/pdf/lpkf_protoplace_manual_(eng).pdf Pick and Place Manual]

==Training==
====Overview====

The Pick and Place organizes and helps place minuscule surface mount components by using a vacuum and a nozzle that is triggered by the amount of pressure applied to the nozzle (pushing down on a component).

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Pick and Place, the Student will have a PCB Prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Turn on the machine. The switch is located in the back left (if viewed from the front of the machine).
# Ensure that the correct vacuum tip is attached to the manipulator. If the tip is larger than the parts you are trying to pick up, then you need to change out the tip for something smaller. You can change tips for various sized components during the process.
## '''Do not use nozzles too large or the component will get sucked into the machine and the machine will get damaged.'''
# Place all of the parts needed for the project into their own sections on the turntable.
## It would be a good idea to have a separate section for each component for organization purposes (for yourself and others).
## Use a sticky note or labeling system of some sort for different components like resistor values.
# Turn on the monitor that will display the output of the micro camera. This will help you view your part while you are placing it on the pads.
# Clamp your board onto the microtable. You should not be able to move your board when it is secured.
# On the LCD, using the keyboard:
## Place -> auto/manual.
## Manual mode will only turn on the vacuum when sufficient pressure is applied to the nozzle (when you press the nozzle onto a component).
## Auto mode will always have the vacuum enabled.
# Let's assume we are in manual mode for the remainder of this procedure (easier because you can't accidentally pick up components). Move the manipulator to the desired component. Grab the component by pushing the nozzle down onto the surface of the component.
## '''Be sure that the component is not upside down!'''
# Move the manipulator and component to the position that the footprint is located (it doesn’t have to be exact yet). Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Break option on the right of the LCD screen. This locks the manipulator so you cannot move it like you normally do which makes it easy to place your components.
# You can use the fine knobs on the front of the pick and place to make precise movements as well as the camera to assure you are placing it correctly on the pads.
## A higher resolution view can be seen on the monitor that’s output from the micro camera.
# Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Place option. It places the component straight down for you!
# Repeat this process until all components are placed.
# Upon completion, refer to the instructions on the Reflow Oven wiki. The solder has not been solidified yet, so be careful with your board so you do not move components. Remember to select the correct setting: V1 Paste if you are using Voltera's special Ink and Paste, and Sn63Pb37 for prefabricated PCBs.
# '''RESET THE SPACE!''' Remove any notes and clean up any lost components.

==Safety==
There is almost nothing you can do on this device that will hurt you. If you place your hand under the nozzle and then smash down the nozzle, you will hurt yourself. Do not do this for obvious reasons.

However, there are things that can hurt the Pick and Place.
# Be gentle with how you treat the nozzle; press down gently when picking and placing components.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31370 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# There are two monitors above the pick and place machine. You’ll want to have your Altium Schematic on one and the altium PCBDoc opened up so you can follow along as you’re placing and double checking things while you’re going.
# Don’t try to get the component exactly at the location of the pads without the break. It’s quicker if you get it in the general area and use the fine adjustments knob after placing the break.
# Pivot the micro camera to view alignments on both the x and y axes (again, the fine adjustment knobs are used here).
# If your tip is having a hard time keeping the component secure, try a bigger one.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The Pick and Place has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after use. Clean solder off of nozzle and clean table of loose components.
|Student
|-
|Nozzle Change
|Only when a component has been sucked up into the nozzle.
|Student and Ace
|}

Pedestal Grinder

2019-08-27T01:28:51Z

Youngj17:

Pedestal Grinder

2019-08-27T01:28:26Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Welding Shop
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Pedestal_grinderIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:298.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Baldor Pedestal Grinder
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make= Baldor
|Has model=332B
|Has ace=
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
A pedestal grinder is a type of grinding machine used to drive abrasive wheels. This type of grinder is mounted on a pedestal, which may be bolted to the floor or may sit on rubber feet. Baldor buffers are built rugged for demanding work loads. 1,800 RPM buffers offer the ultimate in buffer flexibility. Excellent for polishing and buffing metal, aluminum, brass and copper. Single phase 3/4 HP 115/230 volt motor.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* Baldor Pedestal grinder manual [https://www.baldor.com/mvc/DownloadCenter/Files/MN903]

== Procedures ==
# Ensure that the pedestal grinder is stable
# Ensure that all the guards are in place before turning on
# Make sure that the wheel turns freely before using
# Turning on the wheel, stand to the side of the machine and wait for it to come to full speed
# Bring work into contact with the grinding wheel slowly and smoothly, without bumping
# When grinding move back and forth across the face of the wheel. This prevents even wear on the wheel and prevents grooves from forming in your work piece
# Once done using, turn off the grinder and wait for it to come to a complete stop

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

A pedestal grinder is a type of grinding machine used to drive abrasive wheels. This type of grinder is mounted on a pedestal, which may be bolted to the floor or may sit on rubber feet. Baldor buffers are built rugged for demanding work loads. 1,800 RPM buffers offer the ultimate in buffer flexibility. Excellent for polishing and buffing metal, aluminum, brass and copper. Single phase 3/4 HP 115/230 volt motor.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

* Baldor Pedestal grinder manual [https://www.baldor.com/mvc/DownloadCenter/Files/MN903]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

# Ensure that the pedestal grinder is stable
# Ensure that all the guards are in place before turning on
# Make sure that the wheel turns freely before using
# Turning on the wheel, stand to the side of the machine and wait for it to come to full speed
# Bring work into contact with the grinding wheel slowly and smoothly, without bumping
# When grinding move back and forth across the face of the wheel. This prevents even wear on the wheel and prevents grooves from forming in your work piece
# Once done using, turn off the grinder and wait for it to come to a complete stop

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Pedestal Grinder

2019-08-27T01:27:45Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Welding Shop
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Pedestal_grinderIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:298.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Baldor Pedestal Grinder
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make= Baldor
|Has model=332B
|Has ace=
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
A pedestal grinder is a type of grinding machine used to drive abrasive wheels. This type of grinder is mounted on a pedestal, which may be bolted to the floor or may sit on rubber feet. Baldor buffers are built rugged for demanding work loads. 1,800 RPM buffers offer the ultimate in buffer flexibility. Excellent for polishing and buffing metal, aluminum, brass and copper. Single phase 3/4 HP 115/230 volt motor.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* Baldor Pedestal grinder manual [https://www.baldor.com/mvc/DownloadCenter/Files/MN903]

== Procedures ==
# Ensure that the pedestal grinder is stable
# Ensure that all the guards are in place before turning on
# Make sure that the wheel turns freely before using
# Turning on the wheel, stand to the side of the machine and wait for it to come to full speed
# Bring work into contact with the grinding wheel slowly and smoothly, without bumping
# When grinding move back and forth across the face of the wheel. This prevents even wear on the wheel and prevents grooves from forming in your work piece
# Once done using, turn off the grinder and wait for it to come to a complete stop

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

PCB Printer

2019-08-27T01:24:33Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Voltera Icon
|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
|Has ace=
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
[[File:PCB printer icon.png|left|frameless|100x100px]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) rings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Take not that the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink:''' ''AqueousSnake''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste:''' ''FuriousAnt''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above.
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37:''' ''ArmoredArmadillo''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits]

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Training==
====Overview====

PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, Voltera will be able to print traces, pads, and bake them all in one location. However, the PCB Lab has a different tool for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# Drilling
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently. Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# Ready the Ink
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# Software Setup
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# Cleaning the Sensors
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly.
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip.This will help clear out any crap that could hurt the sensor. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]
# Clamping the Substrate
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# Mounting the Probe
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# Positioning and Probing
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# Priming the Conductor
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# Calibration
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# Top Layer Print
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#Preparing for Solder Paste
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#Aligning the Paste
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with a '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#Priming the Paste
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
##You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.
# Components
## The board consists of a button, a 680Ω resistor, and an LED. Attach a fixed 5VDC connection to the + and -, and the LED should illuminate.
==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31369 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|}

Laser Cutters

2019-08-27T01:20:03Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
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|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has function=Soldering Iron
|Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has image=File:laser_cutter_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Trotec
|Has ace=
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

== Maker Hub Laser Cutters ==
{{#ask:
[[Is laser cutter equipment::True]]
|format=ul
}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Laser Cutters

2019-08-27T01:19:29Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has function=Soldering Iron
|Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has image=File:laser_cutter_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Trotec
|Has ace=
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

== Maker Hub Laser Cutters ==
{{#ask:
[[Is laser cutter equipment::True]]
|format=ul
}}

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Jointer

2019-08-13T05:35:25Z

Youngj17:

Jointer

2019-08-13T05:35:00Z

Youngj17:

Jointer

2019-08-13T05:34:35Z

Youngj17:

Jointer

2019-08-13T05:33:31Z

Youngj17:

Jointer

2019-08-13T05:32:47Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:jointer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Jointer icon
|Has iconwname=File:jointer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:jointer.png
|Has imagedesc=Powermatic Jointer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Powermatic
|Has model=54HH
|Has ace=Becca Moos;bmoos15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
The Powermatic jointer contains a 1HP motor and 6" capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 4" dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. <ref>Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/54hh-jointer-1hp-1ph-115-230v/1791317K Powermatic].</ref>
 

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/54hh-jointer-1hp-1ph-115-230v/1791317K Product Home Page]
* [[Media:1791279DXK_man_EN.pdf|Manual]]

== Training ==
* [[Media:1791279DXK_man_EN.pdf|Manual]]
 

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Powermatic jointer contains a 1HP motor and 6" capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 4" dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

* [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/54hh-jointer-1hp-1ph-115-230v/1791317K Product Home Page]
* [[Media:1791279DXK_man_EN.pdf|User Manual]]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Jointer

2019-08-13T05:32:02Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:jointer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Jointer icon
|Has iconwname=File:jointer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:jointer.png
|Has imagedesc=Powermatic Jointer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Powermatic
|Has model=54HH
|Has ace=Becca Moos;bmoos15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
The Powermatic jointer contains a 1HP motor and 6" capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 4" dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. <ref>Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/54hh-jointer-1hp-1ph-115-230v/1791317K Powermatic].</ref>
 

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/54hh-jointer-1hp-1ph-115-230v/1791317K Product Home Page]
* [[Media:1791279DXK_man_EN.pdf|Manual]]

== Training ==
* [[Media:1791279DXK_man_EN.pdf|Manual]]
 

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Jewelry Station

2019-08-13T05:28:26Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File: Jewelry_stationIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:115835.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Jason's Works
|Has model=Master Deluxe Kit
|Has ace=John Joo;jjoo15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|500px|right|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

This Jewelry Station is a set that allows one to turn a coin into a fashionable ring for either yourself or a loved one. Through a process of punching of hole size reductions, forming and polishing, it will bring forth a finished masterpiece in the shape of the ring that you can be forever proud of.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual (You can get one for $20 from Jason's Works)

[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRjgtgFUD2y2fZ7Q0wQxnlA More techniques and skills]

==Training==
====Overview====
There are a wide variety of videos on ring making. The basic process is composed of 4 main steps:
# Punching a hole
# Folding the coin
# Stretching the coin
# Sizing the ring

At various points in the process the metal should be annealed to prevent the metal from becoming too brittle due to cold working. When the coin should be annealed is somewhat subject and no exact rule exists. The hardness of the coin will depend on the type and the year it was minted. For example, silver half dollars minted up to 1964 are made with more silver and less copper than silver half dollars minted afterwards.

The steps below can be found in the video below called "The basics of starting a coin ring" from Jason himself:
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htO9uEI6HPw The basics of starting a coin ring]

====Demonstration====

Make a ring.

====General Procedure====
* Punching the hole:
** To begin this process, you want to begin by annealing the selected coin. If you haven't annealed before, it would be best to get a shop supervisor who knows what they're doing to help you out. It might also help to first do this in a darker room to know about how long to heat the coin up for until you see a slight glow. Over heating the coin can cause deformities, and you sure don't want that.
** After annealing the coin, proceed to the coin holder (the giant brass screwy thing) and open it up to find the best fitting spacer to center the coin to the best of your ability. No coin is perfectly circular, so don't waste your time here. Before you actually proceed to punch the hole, make sure to screw the top back into place, and then take the punch (flat side up) and slide it into the hole on top of the coin press.
*** In order to get a more secure fit, you can use a paper towel to go around the spacer.
** After everything is in place, using a hammer, slowly hammer the punch through the coin until you feel it give. You don't want to punch it all the way through to the bottom of the press for this might ruin this glorious device.
** You then want to use a rubber or wooden mallet to hammer the punch back out.
*** For safety reasons, you will want to de-burr the punched hole to avoid cuts.
* Folding the coin:
** '''Before you begin to do this, it is highly recommended to anneal the coin to make it more malleable.'''
** In order to fold the coin, take one of the reduction dyes and find one that fits, but is bigger than the coin. For example, it's recommended to use the 1.3 - 1.4 17 degree dye for a half-dollar, and go down the sizes to eventually fold the ring over.
*** '''It is important to note that you don't want to fold the coin all the way straight just yet, as it will make it more difficult to reduce down the size later!'''
* Stretching the coin:
** Once you have folded the coin over, it's time to take it to the "stretching tower," again, using a paper towel to protect the details of the coin.
** To begin, you want to measure the coin's current size using the sizing rod, measuring from the smallest side first. Once you have measured the ring's current size, you want to figure out what your target size is and make sure that you stretch the coin one or two sizes bigger (you will be sizing the coin down to the target size).
*** '''As you are working through this, you may want to anneal the coin here and there, making sure that the coin does not become too hard and stiff to work with, causing it to crack like dry skin on a freezing day.'''
* Sizing the ring:
** From here, take some reduction dyes and size and choose accordingly to reduce the size of the bigger end of the ring, using the press to slowly press the ring into the dye, reducing it. '''Make sure that you are always reducing form the wider side of the ring!'''
** As you are making progress here, make sure to check the ring's size using the sizing rod, and anneal as the coin becomes harder to work with, and '''don't get lazy here. It's better to spend more time annealing and softening the coin rather than having the coin crack and you losing all your hard work!'''
** You will want to think of it as "kneading" the coin into the right shape and size--gentle and slow, making sure that it's done properly or you'll pay the consequences!
* Finishing
** After you have completed all these steps, it's time to finish your ring. There's many ways that you can do this, and it's all up to you; you can either polish it, sand it, use black max to make the features pop, or just keeping it rustic if your heart desires it to be that way. Regardless, you will have successfully created your first (or maybe hundredth ring)!

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Jewelry Station

2019-08-13T05:25:36Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File: Jewelry_stationIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:115835.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Jason's Works
|Has model=Master Deluxe Kit
|Has ace=John Joo;jjoo15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

This Jewelry Station is a set that allows one to turn a coin into a fashionable ring for either yourself or a loved one. Through a process of punching of hole size reductions, forming and polishing, it will bring forth a finished masterpiece in the shape of the ring that you can be forever proud of.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual (You can get one for $20 from Jason's Works)

[https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRjgtgFUD2y2fZ7Q0wQxnlA More techniques and skills]

==Training==
====Overview====
There are a wide variety of videos on ring making. The basic process is composed of 4 main steps:
# Punching a hole
# Folding the coin
# Stretching the coin
# Sizing the ring

At various points in the process the metal should be annealed to prevent the metal from becoming too brittle due to cold working. When the coin should be annealed is somewhat subject and no exact rule exists. The hardness of the coin will depend on the type and the year it was minted. For example, silver half dollars minted up to 1964 are made with more silver and less copper than silver half dollars minted afterwards.

The steps below can be found in the video below called "The basics of starting a coin ring" from Jason himself:
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htO9uEI6HPw The basics of starting a coin ring]

====Demonstration====

Make a ring.

====General Procedure====
* Punching the hole:
** To begin this process, you want to begin by annealing the selected coin. If you haven't annealed before, it would be best to get a shop supervisor who knows what they're doing to help you out. It might also help to first do this in a darker room to know about how long to heat the coin up for until you see a slight glow. Over heating the coin can cause deformities, and you sure don't want that.
** After annealing the coin, proceed to the coin holder (the giant brass screwy thing) and open it up to find the best fitting spacer to center the coin to the best of your ability. No coin is perfectly circular, so don't waste your time here. Before you actually proceed to punch the hole, make sure to screw the top back into place, and then take the punch (flat side up) and slide it into the hole on top of the coin press.
*** In order to get a more secure fit, you can use a paper towel to go around the spacer.
** After everything is in place, using a hammer, slowly hammer the punch through the coin until you feel it give. You don't want to punch it all the way through to the bottom of the press for this might ruin this glorious device.
** You then want to use a rubber or wooden mallet to hammer the punch back out.
*** For safety reasons, you will want to de-burr the punched hole to avoid cuts.
* Folding the coin:
** '''Before you begin to do this, it is highly recommended to anneal the coin to make it more malleable.'''
** In order to fold the coin, take one of the reduction dyes and find one that fits, but is bigger than the coin. For example, it's recommended to use the 1.3 - 1.4 17 degree dye for a half-dollar, and go down the sizes to eventually fold the ring over.
*** '''It is important to note that you don't want to fold the coin all the way straight just yet, as it will make it more difficult to reduce down the size later!'''
* Stretching the coin:
** Once you have folded the coin over, it's time to take it to the "stretching tower," again, using a paper towel to protect the details of the coin.
** To begin, you want to measure the coin's current size using the sizing rod, measuring from the smallest side first. Once you have measured the ring's current size, you want to figure out what your target size is and make sure that you stretch the coin one or two sizes bigger (you will be sizing the coin down to the target size).
*** '''As you are working through this, you may want to anneal the coin here and there, making sure that the coin does not become too hard and stiff to work with, causing it to crack like dry skin on a freezing day.'''
* Sizing the ring:
** From here, take some reduction dyes and size and choose accordingly to reduce the size of the bigger end of the ring, using the press to slowly press the ring into the dye, reducing it. '''Make sure that you are always reducing form the wider side of the ring!'''
** As you are making progress here, make sure to check the ring's size using the sizing rod, and anneal as the coin becomes harder to work with, and '''don't get lazy here. It's better to spend more time annealing and softening the coin rather than having the coin crack and you losing all your hard work!'''
** You will want to think of it as "kneading" the coin into the right shape and size--gentle and slow, making sure that it's done properly or you'll pay the consequences!
* Finishing
** After you have completed all these steps, it's time to finish your ring. There's many ways that you can do this, and it's all up to you; you can either polish it, sand it, use black max to make the features pop, or just keeping it rustic if your heart desires it to be that way. Regardless, you will have successfully created your first (or maybe hundredth ring)!

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Jewelry Station

2019-08-13T05:22:31Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File: Jewelry_stationIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:115835.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Jason's Works
|Has model=Master Deluxe Kit
|Has ace=John Joo;jjoo15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]This Jewelry Station is a set that allows one to turn a coin into a fashionable ring for either yourself or a loved one. Through a process of punching of hole size reductions, forming and polishing, it will bring forth a finished masterpiece in the shape of the ring that you can be forever proud of.[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htO9uEI6HPw The basics of starting a coin ring]
* [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRjgtgFUD2y2fZ7Q0wQxnlA More techniques and skills]
(If you want a PDF manual from Jason's Works, you'll have to pay about $20.00)

== Training ==

There are a wide variety of videos on ring making. The basic process is composed of 4 main steps:
# Punching a hole
# Folding the coin
# Stretching the coin
# Sizing the ring

At various points in the process the metal should be annealed to prevent the metal from becoming too brittle due to cold working. When the coin should be annealed is somewhat subject and no exact rule exists. The hardness of the coin will depend on the type and the year it was minted. For example, silver half dollars minted up to 1964 are made with more silver and less copper than silver half dollars minted afterwards.

The steps below can be found in the video below called "The basics of starting a coin ring" from Jason himself:
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htO9uEI6HPw The basics of starting a coin ring]

'''Making the ring:'''
# Punching the hole:
#* To begin this process, you want to begin by annealing the selected coin. If you haven't annealed before, it would be best to get a shop supervisor who knows what they're doing to help you out. It might also help to first do this in a darker room to know about how long to heat the coin up for until you see a slight glow. Over heating the coin can cause deformities, and you sure don't want that.
#* After annealing the coin, proceed to the coin holder (the giant brass screwy thing) and open it up to find the best fitting spacer to center the coin to the best of your ability. No coin is perfectly circular, so don't waste your time here. Before you actually proceed to punch the hole, make sure to screw the top back into place, and then take the punch (flat side up) and slide it into the hole on top of the coin press.
#** In order to get a more secure fit, you can use a paper towel to go around the spacer.
#* After everything is in place, using a hammer, slowly hammer the punch through the coin until you feel it give. You don't want to punch it all the way through to the bottom of the press for this might ruin this glorious device.
#* You then want to use a rubber or wooden mallet to hammer the punch back out.
#** For safety reasons, you will want to de-burr the punched hole to avoid cuts.
# Folding the coin:
#* '''Before you begin to do this, it is highly recommended to anneal the coin to make it more malleable.'''
#* In order to fold the coin, take one of the reduction dyes and find one that fits, but is bigger than the coin. For example, it's recommended to use the 1.3 - 1.4 17 degree dye for a half-dollar, and go down the sizes to eventually fold the ring over.
#** '''It is important to note that you don't want to fold the coin all the way straight just yet, as it will make it more difficult to reduce down the size later!'''
# Stretching the coin:
#* Once you have folded the coin over, it's time to take it to the "stretching tower," again, using a paper towel to protect the details of the coin.
#* To begin, you want to measure the coin's current size using the sizing rod, measuring from the smallest side first. Once you have measured the ring's current size, you want to figure out what your target size is and make sure that you stretch the coin one or two sizes bigger (you will be sizing the coin down to the target size).
#** '''As you are working through this, you may want to anneal the coin here and there, making sure that the coin does not become too hard and stiff to work with, causing it to crack like dry skin on a freezing day.'''
# Sizing the ring:
#* From here, take some reduction dyes and size and choose accordingly to reduce the size of the bigger end of the ring, using the press to slowly press the ring into the dye, reducing it. '''Make sure that you are always reducing form the wider side of the ring!'''
#* As you are making progress here, make sure to check the ring's size using the sizing rod, and anneal as the coin becomes harder to work with, and '''don't get lazy here. It's better to spend more time annealing and softening the coin rather than having the coin crack and you losing all your hard work!'''
#* You will want to think of it as "kneading" the coin into the right shape and size--gentle and slow, making sure that it's done properly or you'll pay the consequences!
# Finishing
#* After you have completed all these steps, it's time to finish your ring. There's many ways that you can do this, and it's all up to you; you can either polish it, sand it, use black max to make the features pop, or just keeping it rustic if your heart desires it to be that way. Regardless, you will have successfully created your first (or maybe hundredth ring)!

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Hydraulic Press

2019-08-13T05:21:40Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Has make=Baileigh
|Has model=30T Air Press
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has function=Shop Press
|Has url=http:https://www.baileigh.com/shop-press-hsp-30a
|Has icon=File: Hydraulic_pressIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Hydraulic Press icon
|Has image=File:Shop_Press.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Baileigh 30 Ton Air Press
|Has description=Baileigh 30 Ton Air Press
|Has ace=ace wanted
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

A '''hydraulic press''' is a machine tool that uses a hydraulic cylinder to generate a compressive force. They are often used in shops to press interference fit parts together, such as gears onto shafts or bearings into housings.
Some of the other uses include bending and forming metal. Some presses use a manual pump to produce the force while others use compressed air or a power unit driven by an electric motor.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

== 3 commandments ==
Stuff about the [[3 commandments]].

== Documentation ==

* [[Media:Baileigh Shop Press.pdf|Baileigh Hydraulic Press Manual]]

== Resources ==

== Training ==

High Speed Camera

2019-08-13T05:20:56Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:High_speed_cameraIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Chronos.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Chronos 1.4
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Chronos
|Has model=1.4 High Speed Camera
|Has ace=John Joo;jjoo15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Heavy Duty Sewing Machine

2019-08-13T05:20:12Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Hub
|Is used in domain=Cloth
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:image_pending.png
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Janome
|Has model=6700P
|Has ace=
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Hand Router

2019-08-13T05:18:49Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Hand Router.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, but it can also be one of the most versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vl8Jbw3cSk Introductory Video]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Qqimqo-ohU About Direction of Cut]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

[[Image:RouterBits.jpg|331x331px|left]]
Each bit is made for a different job. The wood shop has a wide assortment, although less common types may be unavailable. It should be noted that different bit sizes and profiles will operate better at different speeds. The amount of material the is being removed in each pass as well as the hardness of the wood should determine the speed the router is ran at. With reference to straight bits, if the bit is less than 1" in diameter, many recommend speeds near 24,000 rpm. For bits 1" - 2.5", 16,000 to 18,000 rpm, 2.5" to 3", 12,000 to 14,000 rpm, and for bits of more than 3", a common recommendation is 10,000 to 12,000 rpm.

Occasionally routing can leave burn marks on the workpiece. This usually means that the bit in the router has become dull, let a shop supervisor know if a bit seems dull. Sometimes the burning is due to build up of resin and other gunk (a technical term) on the back of the blade insulating the bit and allowing for heat to build up, make sure to keep bits clean. A final possible cause of burning wood while routing is taking passes that are too slow or setting the router bit speed too high.

[[:File:HandRouterManual890 series.pdf|User Manual]]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Hand Router

2019-08-13T05:13:53Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Hand Router.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:HandRouterImage.jpeg
|Has imagedesc=Porter Cable Model 8902 2.25 HP Hand Router.
|Has description=Hand router for use in the Maker Hub when routing wood if you intend to use a template, route imprecisely, or are too old-school to use the handheld CNC router.
|Has certification=
|Has make=Porter Cable
|Has model=8902
|Has ace=Caleb Rhodes;crhodes15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
The hand router is the most dangerous tool in the wood shop, but it can also be one of the most versatile tools. Used in conjunction with the proper jigs and templates, the router can accomplish a wide variety of tasks with relative ease. Holes and channels of varying depths and nearly limitless shapes can be cut. The router can also use special bits to cut bevels and chamfers along the edges of a workpiece.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
[[File:HandRouterManual890_series.pdf|Instruction Manual]]

== Bit Types ==

[[Image:RouterBits.jpg|331x331px|left]]
Each bit is made for a different job. The wood shop has a wide assortment, although less common types may be unavailable. It should be noted that different bit sizes and profiles will operate better at different speeds. The amount of material the is being removed in each pass as well as the hardness of the wood should determine the speed the router is ran at. With reference to straight bits, if the bit is less than 1" in diameter, many recommend speeds near 24,000 rpm. For bits 1" - 2.5", 16,000 to 18,000 rpm, 2.5" to 3", 12,000 to 14,000 rpm, and for bits of more than 3", a common recommendation is 10,000 to 12,000 rpm.

Occasionally routing can leave burn marks on the workpiece. This usually means that the bit in the router has become dull, let a shop supervisor know if a bit seems dull. Sometimes the burning is due to build up of resin and other gunk (a technical term) on the back of the blade insulating the bit and allowing for heat to build up, make sure to keep bits clean. A final possible cause of burning wood while routing is taking passes that are too slow or setting the router bit speed too high.

== Training ==

Click on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vl8Jbw3cSk this] link for an introductory video on using the router. The enthusiastic video's most important parts happen in the first 8 minutes. Note that we do not have a router table, but one can easily be made. If the proper direction of cut is confusing, [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Qqimqo-ohU this] video explains it thoroughly, albeit in a very lengthy fashion. Our router accepts both 1/2" and 1/4" bit shanks, just swap out collets to change bit shank size.

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Hand Bender

2019-08-13T05:12:45Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Has make=Di-Acro
|Has model=Model 2 Bender
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has function=Hand Bender
|Has url=https://www.diacro.com/product/model-2-bender/
|Has icon=File: Hand_benderIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Hand Bender icon
|Has image=File:Hand_Bender.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Di-Acro Hand Bender
|Has description=Di-Acro Hand Bender
|Has ace=Jacob Bodge;jbodge14@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

A hand bender is a machine used to bend wire, solid stock, and tubing. The bender comes with multiple dyes for different types of bends. <nowiki>*</nowiki>Currently the bender stand is not bolted to the floor, so you can really only bend light materials like 1/8" thick aluminum. If you want to bend thicker material, you will need help from someone to hold the table. In the future we will be bolting the bender to a sturdier spot.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

[[:File:Di-Acro Hand Bender.pdf|User Manual]]

[https://www.diacro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Art-Of-Bending_2013.pdf Art of Bending]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHKbXlK4W6A Simple Bend]

[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2W9Mm2B7JM Flat Bend]

==Training==
====Overview====

Look at "Art of Bending" document to find out how to set up the equipment. Then Watch the "Simple Bend" video to see how the equipment functions.

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

1) Cut a piece of .5"x.125" aluminum to a length of 6".

2) Set the bender to make a 90o bend at 0.5" from the end of material;proceed to bend.

3) Make another 90o bend at 1.5" from previous bend. Make bend in the same direction.

4) Set the bender to make a circular bend, of any size, 1.5" from previous bend. Bend in opposite direction as last bend.

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Hand Bender

2019-08-13T05:08:30Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Has make=Di-Acro
|Has model=Model 2 Bender
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has function=Hand Bender
|Has url=https://www.diacro.com/product/model-2-bender/
|Has icon=File: Hand_benderIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Hand Bender icon
|Has image=File:Hand_Bender.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Di-Acro Hand Bender
|Has description=Di-Acro Hand Bender
|Has ace=Jacob Bodge;jbodge14@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
A hand bender is a machine used to bend wire, solid stock, and tubing. The bender comes with multiple dyes for different types of bends.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 

<nowiki>*</nowiki>Currently the bender stand is not bolted to the floor, so you can really only bend light materials like 1/8" thick aluminum. If you want to bend thicker material, you will need help from someone to hold the table. In the future we will be bolting the bender to a sturdier spot. 
__TOC__

== 3 commandments ==
Stuff about the [[3 commandments]].

== Documentation ==
* [https://www.diacro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Art-Of-Bending_2013.pdf Art of Bending(Really Useful)]
* [[Media:Di-Acro Hand Bender.pdf|Di-Acro Hand Bender Manual]]

== Resources ==
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHKbXlK4W6A Simple Bend]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2W9Mm2B7JM Flat Bend]

== Training ==
Look at "Art of Bending" document to find out how to set up the equipment. Then Watch the "Simple Bend" video to see how the equipment functions.

==Procedure==
1) Cut a piece of .5"x.125" aluminum to a length of 6".

2) Set the bender to make a 90o bend at 0.5" from the end of material;proceed to bend.

3) Make another 90o bend at 1.5" from previous bend. Make bend in the same direction.

4) Set the bender to make a circular bend, of any size, 1.5" from previous bend. Bend in opposite direction as last bend.

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Foam Cutter

2019-08-13T05:06:44Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Hub
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File: Foam_cutterIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:image_pending.png
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Proxxon
|Has model=Thermocut 12E & 115E
|Has ace=Antonio Isom;aisom15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Dust Collector

2019-08-04T21:40:27Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Small Dust Collector
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has second image=File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg
|Has secondimagedesc=Large Dust Collector
|Has make=Laguna
|Has model=Pflux
|Has ace=Becca Moos;bmoos15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has second image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1|{{#show:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has secondimagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

[http://go.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000185AA.pdf User Manual Small Dust Collector]

[http://go.rockler.com/tech/laguna-p-flux-manual.pdf User Manual Large Dust Collector]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Dust Collector

2019-08-04T21:39:56Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Small Dust Collector
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has second image=File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg
|Has secondimagedesc=Large Dust Collector
|Has make=Laguna
|Has model=Pflux
|Has ace=Becca Moos;bmoos15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has second image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1|{{#show:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has secondimagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

This is content.

== Documentation ==
*

== Training ==

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

[http://go.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000185AA.pdf User Manual Small Dust Collector]

[http://go.rockler.com/tech/laguna-p-flux-manual.pdf User Manual Large Dust Collector]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Dust Collector

2019-08-04T21:38:46Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Small Dust Collector
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has second image=File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg
|Has secondimagedesc=Large Dust Collector
|Has make=Laguna
|Has model=Pflux
|Has ace=Becca Moos;bmoos15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has second image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1|{{#show:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has secondimagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

This is content.

== Documentation ==
* [http://go.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000185AA.pdf User Manual Small Dust Collector]
* [http://go.rockler.com/tech/laguna-p-flux-manual.pdf User Manual Large Dust Collector]

== Training ==

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

Insert Description Text

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

Insert text

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Insert text

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Dissolvable Support Bath

2019-08-04T21:37:44Z

Youngj17: /* Training0 */

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Basic Bath.jpg
|Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=
|Has make=Haake
|Has model=W45, DL 30 Thermo
|Has ace=Gabi Lorenzo;glorenzo16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Dissolvable Support Bath is a Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath. It is used in conjunction with both Stratasys [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] 3D printers. Since these printers use QRS support material, the support can be dissolved in a heated, agitated, diluted solution of Sodium Hydroxide. Sodium Hydroxide can be dangerous when handled incorrectly, therefore there are various safety procedures associated with the use of the Dissolvable Support Bath. Below is a video of an alcohol dissolvable support bath which is not as toxic but functions the same.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gonTiHbIRGg}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* There is no unique terminology associated with this machine.

==== User Manual ====
[https://www.massetrecovery.com/Pictures11/dc30.pdf Instruction Manual] for the Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath.

==Training==
====Overview====
Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath.

====Demonstration====

Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath.

====General Procedure====
[[File:Bath_Controls.jpg|227x227px|thumb| # Bath Controls Panel. |link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bath_Controls.jpg]]
# ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).

#Flip the black switch (inside the yellow rectangle) to turn the bath on.
#Then press the button circled in red to start the heating process.
#The red knob (circled in cyan) should always be set to about 85 degrees Celsius.
#Keep the lid shut as often as possible.
#Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.
#*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.
''When removing parts:''
#If needed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, removed the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.
#Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.
#Replace the basket and lid.
==Safety==
*Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.
*Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.
*Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of diluted Sodium Hydroxide.
*Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.
*All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.
*All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.
*Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.
*The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to it, and it details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.

==Certification==

This Quiz is a part of the F370 Quiz on Foxtale.

==Troubleshooting==
*'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''
**This typically means the bath is low on water (below 1.5 horizontal holes of the basket inside).
**Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is only 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.
**Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.
**The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.
*'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.
**This would mean there is a collection of water inside of the grey catch tray underneath the bath.
*'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''
**Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.
**Use the spill kit.
***There should be instructions inside.
***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the hydrogen peroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new hydrogen peroxide solution.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|Wipe down the machine
|As neeeded
|Lab Volunteer
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change the Bath Solution
|When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material
|Lab Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles
|If there is only one full bottle remaining
|Lab Volunteer
|}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''
* Wear safety attire during the entire process.
*Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.
*Unscrew the top of drain spout (make sure the drain spout is completely pushed in before unscrewing).
*Swivel the drain spout to face down.
*Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.
*Pull the drain spout out so that the fluid begins to drain.
*Completely drain all of the fluid.
*''Clean the inside of the tank'':
**Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.
**Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.
**Replace the basket.
*Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.
*Turn the bath on and have it heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.
*Take a pre-filled bottle of Sodium Hydroxide (located in the thin cabinet underneath the counter the bath sits on) and sprinkle some into the heated water.
*Allow the sprinkled amount to dissolve and repeat until all of the Sodium Hydroxide in the bottle has been dissolved in the bath.
*Refill the Sodium Hydroxide bottle if there is only one filled bottle left.3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''
* Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.
*There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles up to where the level in the last remaining bottle is. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.

Dimension 3D Printer

2019-08-04T21:36:47Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:dimension_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Dimension Icon
|Has iconwname=File:dimension_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Dimension_printer_image.png
|Has imagedesc=The Dimension 1200 SST Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has make=Stratasys
|Has model=1200 SST
|Has ace=Joshua Consenz;jconsenz18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|300px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Dimension is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] printer made by Stratasys. It is designed with ultimate simplicity in mind. The system enables you to build parts quickly, even if you’ve never used a 3D printer before. Its display panel prompts you to press a few keys to get you modeling quickly.
The system models with ABS plastic, so modeled parts are strong and durable. ABS also ensures you’ll be able to drill, tap, sand, and paint your creations. With the speed and convenience of Breakaway Support Technology (BST) or Soluble Support Technology (SST), your completed parts are quickly available for review and test. SST allows for parts that are printed on the Dimension to have a more porous or odd geometry, such as overhangs, to be printed with relative ease in comparison with other filament based 3D printers.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

[https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/dimension-1200 Product Home Page]

[[Media:Dimension 1200es user guide.pdf|User Manual]]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

'''GrabCAD Print'''
GrabCAD Print is the software that both the Dimension and [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] use, and allows you to easily orient and view the part you want to model. Both printers are web based, which allows you to start the print from the one of the lab's computers.

On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you select the printer you want to use for the part you want to print, the volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best. The menu the the right of the image shows the printer options, make sure you select the correct printer, in this case it is the Dimension. After ensuring you have the software correctly set up, open your file and place it on the build plate, '''''Note: your file has to be in STL format to work with any printing software.''''' The build plate is correctly scaled to the actual build plate, so when sizing up or down you can check the size and placement of the print with the build plate. '''''Note: The following pictures show a single part being printed, during regular lab hours the Dimension is only started when the plate is mostly full to be printed overnight.'''''

[[File:Opening File(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

After importing all parts resize and orient your parts based on what the final product needs to be accomplished, with no one dimension being larger than 11 inches. Orienting the part is crucial for the print as this will determine how much support material is used as well as the strength of the part. To reduce support material used, orient your part with the most amount of surface are in contact with the plate, and with as few features positioned above cavities in the part. For maximum strength, orient your part so that the layers are parallel with the direction that the anticipated force will be applied, printing the layers perpendicular to the force can cause the layers to peel away from one another if the force is strong enough. If you have a red error in the model, enter analysis mode and click repair as shown in the picture below.

[[File:Troubleshooting(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

After correctly orienting and sizing the part, click '''Slice Preview''' to see how the Dimension will print your part, total layers, and path of the nozzle. Inspect your part to ensure that it will print correctly, and has a low chance of failing. You can watch an animation of your part being built, layer by layer, and do other analysis before printing. Click '''View Estimates''', found in green near the bottom right corner, to see an approximation of how long the print will take, and the amount of material used. Be sure that this information is recorded in the Job Log. Fix any potential problems that you may have seen, and when you are sure that the part is correctly oriented on the build plate. You may now click Print, locate on the bottom right of the screen. '''''Note: Very rarely will a single part be printed on the Dimension or F370, do not start a print without other parts unless cleared by the lab helper.'''''

[[File:Slice Preview(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

'''Printing'''
Once the Job has been sent to the Dimension, the control panel will display the most recent job sent to it. Check that the amount of support and model material, indicated on the top most display, is sufficient for the print and when ready, press the button to the right of the display that says start model.[[File:Dimension Control Panel.jpg|center|677x677px]]

'''Finished Parts'''
Once your part is finished, the plate can be removed by moving the tabs downward, pulling the plate forward, and lifting to remove. The following pictures show that process.[[File:Finished Part.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Loosening Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Sliding Plate Forward.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Plate is Removed.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Placing Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Sliding Plate Foreward.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Locking Plate In.jpg|center|700x700px]]

'''Removing Support Material'''
After removing the plate from the Dimension remove your part from the build plate by using the scraping tool and running the tool along the build plate, as shown in the picture below, and hitting the support material. Continue this process until the part is chipped off of the build plate. Once the part is removed, place in the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] to remove any left over support material.[[File:Chipping at Support Material.jpg|center|754x754px]]

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

====Changing Material====
''*Only volunteers will change out materials. If the Dimension runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.*''

The Dimension has two separate types of material, Model and Support. These two filaments are located on the front of the Dimension, with the Model in the top slot, and the support on the bottom. To change material for either modeling or support, click the button next to the display that says "Material . . ." and then click "Unload" from there. Select which filament you want to exchange, and then press in on that cartridge to remove it. The cartridge will click out, and you can now reel in the material as the Dimension removes it by spinning a wheel on the right hand side.

To load a material is very similar. Select the filament you want to replace, and insert the tip into a hole located in the slot. The Dimension will grab the filament and pull it up to the extruder nozzle. Place the cartridge back into the Dimension, and push it forwards until you hear a click.
[[Category:Prototyping Lab]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Dimension 3D Printer

2019-08-04T21:35:13Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:dimension_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Dimension Icon
|Has iconwname=File:dimension_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Dimension_printer_image.png
|Has imagedesc=The Dimension 1200 SST Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has make=Stratasys
|Has model=1200 SST
|Has ace=Joshua Consenz;jconsenz18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|300px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Dimension is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] printer made by Stratasys. It is designed with ultimate simplicity in mind. The system enables you to build parts quickly, even if you’ve never used a 3D printer before. Its display panel prompts you to press a few keys to get you modeling quickly.
The system models with ABS plastic, so modeled parts are strong and durable. ABS also ensures you’ll be able to drill, tap, sand, and paint your creations. With the speed and convenience of Breakaway Support Technology (BST) or Soluble Support Technology (SST), your completed parts are quickly available for review and test. SST allows for parts that are printed on the Dimension to have a more porous or odd geometry, such as overhangs, to be printed with relative ease in comparison with other filament based 3D printers.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

[https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/dimension-1200 Product Home Page]

[[Media:Dimension 1200es user guide.pdf|User Manual]]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

'''GrabCAD Print'''
GrabCAD Print is the software that both the Dimension and [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] use, and allows you to easily orient and view the part you want to model. Both printers are web based, which allows you to start the print from the one of the lab's computers.

On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you select the printer you want to use for the part you want to print, the volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best. The menu the the right of the image shows the printer options, make sure you select the correct printer, in this case it is the Dimension. After ensuring you have the software correctly set up, open your file and place it on the build plate, '''''Note: your file has to be in STL format to work with any printing software.''''' The build plate is correctly scaled to the actual build plate, so when sizing up or down you can check the size and placement of the print with the build plate. '''''Note: The following pictures show a single part being printed, during regular lab hours the Dimension is only started when the plate is mostly full to be printed overnight.'''''

[[File:Opening File(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

After importing all parts resize and orient your parts based on what the final product needs to be accomplished, with no one dimension being larger than 11 inches. Orienting the part is crucial for the print as this will determine how much support material is used as well as the strength of the part. To reduce support material used, orient your part with the most amount of surface are in contact with the plate, and with as few features positioned above cavities in the part. For maximum strength, orient your part so that the layers are parallel with the direction that the anticipated force will be applied, printing the layers perpendicular to the force can cause the layers to peel away from one another if the force is strong enough. If you have a red error in the model, enter analysis mode and click repair as shown in the picture below.

[[File:Troubleshooting(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

After correctly orienting and sizing the part, click '''Slice Preview''' to see how the Dimension will print your part, total layers, and path of the nozzle. Inspect your part to ensure that it will print correctly, and has a low chance of failing. You can watch an animation of your part being built, layer by layer, and do other analysis before printing. Click '''View Estimates''', found in green near the bottom right corner, to see an approximation of how long the print will take, and the amount of material used. Be sure that this information is recorded in the Job Log. Fix any potential problems that you may have seen, and when you are sure that the part is correctly oriented on the build plate. You may now click Print, locate on the bottom right of the screen. '''''Note: Very rarely will a single part be printed on the Dimension or F370, do not start a print without other parts unless cleared by the lab helper.'''''

[[File:Slice Preview(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

'''Printing'''
Once the Job has been sent to the Dimension, the control panel will display the most recent job sent to it. Check that the amount of support and model material, indicated on the top most display, is sufficient for the print and when ready, press the button to the right of the display that says start model.[[File:Dimension Control Panel.jpg|center|677x677px]]

'''Finished Parts'''
Once your part is finished, the plate can be removed by moving the tabs downward, pulling the plate forward, and lifting to remove. The following pictures show that process.[[File:Finished Part.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Loosening Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Sliding Plate Forward.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Plate is Removed.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Placing Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Sliding Plate Foreward.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Locking Plate In.jpg|center|700x700px]]

'''Removing Support Material'''
After removing the plate from the Dimension remove your part from the build plate by using the scraping tool and running the tool along the build plate, as shown in the picture below, and hitting the support material. Continue this process until the part is chipped off of the build plate. Once the part is removed, place in the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] to remove any left over support material.[[File:Chipping at Support Material.jpg|center|754x754px]]

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

====Changing Material====
''*Only volunteers will change out materials. If the Dimension runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.*''

The Dimension has two separate types of material, Model and Support. These two filaments are located on the front of the Dimension, with the Model in the top slot, and the support on the bottom. To change material for either modeling or support, click the button next to the display that says "Material . . ." and then click "Unload" from there. Select which filament you want to exchange, and then press in on that cartridge to remove it. The cartridge will click out, and you can now reel in the material as the Dimension removes it by spinning a wheel on the right hand side.

To load a material is very similar. Select the filament you want to replace, and insert the tip into a hole located in the slot. The Dimension will grab the filament and pull it up to the extruder nozzle. Place the cartridge back into the Dimension, and push it forwards until you hear a click.
[[Category:Prototyping Lab]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Dimension 3D Printer

2019-08-04T21:34:26Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:dimension_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Dimension Icon
|Has iconwname=File:dimension_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Dimension_printer_image.png
|Has imagedesc=The Dimension 1200 SST Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has make=Stratasys
|Has model=1200 SST
|Has ace=Joshua Consenz;jconsenz18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|300px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Dimension is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] printer made by Stratasys. It is designed with ultimate simplicity in mind. The system enables you to build parts quickly, even if you’ve never used a 3D printer before. Its display panel prompts you to press a few keys to get you modeling quickly.
The system models with ABS plastic, so modeled parts are strong and durable. ABS also ensures you’ll be able to drill, tap, sand, and paint your creations. With the speed and convenience of Breakaway Support Technology (BST) or Soluble Support Technology (SST), your completed parts are quickly available for review and test. SST allows for parts that are printed on the Dimension to have a more porous or odd geometry, such as overhangs, to be printed with relative ease in comparison with other filament based 3D printers.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

[https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/dimension-1200 Product Home Page]

[[Media:Dimension 1200es user guide.pdf|User Manual]]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

'''GrabCAD Print'''
GrabCAD Print is the software that both the Dimension and [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] use, and allows you to easily orient and view the part you want to model. Both printers are web based, which allows you to start the print from the one of the lab's computers.

On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you select the printer you want to use for the part you want to print, the volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best. The menu the the right of the image shows the printer options, make sure you select the correct printer, in this case it is the Dimension. After ensuring you have the software correctly set up, open your file and place it on the build plate, '''''Note: your file has to be in STL format to work with any printing software.''''' The build plate is correctly scaled to the actual build plate, so when sizing up or down you can check the size and placement of the print with the build plate. '''''Note: The following pictures show a single part being printed, during regular lab hours the Dimension is only started when the plate is mostly full to be printed overnight.'''''

[[File:Opening File(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

After importing all parts resize and orient your parts based on what the final product needs to be accomplished, with no one dimension being larger than 11 inches. Orienting the part is crucial for the print as this will determine how much support material is used as well as the strength of the part. To reduce support material used, orient your part with the most amount of surface are in contact with the plate, and with as few features positioned above cavities in the part. For maximum strength, orient your part so that the layers are parallel with the direction that the anticipated force will be applied, printing the layers perpendicular to the force can cause the layers to peel away from one another if the force is strong enough. If you have a red error in the model, enter analysis mode and click repair as shown in the picture below.

[[File:Troubleshooting(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

After correctly orienting and sizing the part, click '''Slice Preview''' to see how the Dimension will print your part, total layers, and path of the nozzle. Inspect your part to ensure that it will print correctly, and has a low chance of failing. You can watch an animation of your part being built, layer by layer, and do other analysis before printing. Click '''View Estimates''', found in green near the bottom right corner, to see an approximation of how long the print will take, and the amount of material used. Be sure that this information is recorded in the Job Log. Fix any potential problems that you may have seen, and when you are sure that the part is correctly oriented on the build plate. You may now click Print, locate on the bottom right of the screen. '''''Note: Very rarely will a single part be printed on the Dimension or F370, do not start a print without other parts unless cleared by the lab helper.'''''

[[File:Slice Preview(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

'''Printing'''
Once the Job has been sent to the Dimension, the control panel will display the most recent job sent to it. Check that the amount of support and model material, indicated on the top most display, is sufficient for the print and when ready, press the button to the right of the display that says start model.[[File:Dimension Control Panel.jpg|center|677x677px]]

'''Finished Parts'''
Once your part is finished, the plate can be removed by moving the tabs downward, pulling the plate forward, and lifting to remove. The following pictures show that process.[[File:Finished Part.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Loosening Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Sliding Plate Forward.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Plate is Removed.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Placing Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Sliding Plate Foreward.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Locking Plate In.jpg|center|700x700px]]

'''Removing Support Material'''
After removing the plate from the Dimension remove your part from the build plate by using the scraping tool and running the tool along the build plate, as shown in the picture below, and hitting the support material. Continue this process until the part is chipped off of the build plate. Once the part is removed, place in the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] to remove any left over support material.[[File:Chipping at Support Material.jpg|center|754x754px]]

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

==== '''Changing Material''' ====
''*Only volunteers will change out materials. If the Dimension runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.*''

The Dimension has two separate types of material, Model and Support. These two filaments are located on the front of the Dimension, with the Model in the top slot, and the support on the bottom. To change material for either modeling or support, click the button next to the display that says "Material . . ." and then click "Unload" from there. Select which filament you want to exchange, and then press in on that cartridge to remove it. The cartridge will click out, and you can now reel in the material as the Dimension removes it by spinning a wheel on the right hand side.

To load a material is very similar. Select the filament you want to replace, and insert the tip into a hole located in the slot. The Dimension will grab the filament and pull it up to the extruder nozzle. Place the cartridge back into the Dimension, and push it forwards until you hear a click.
[[Category:Prototyping Lab]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Dimension 3D Printer

2019-08-04T21:32:19Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:dimension_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Dimension Icon
|Has iconwname=File:dimension_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Dimension_printer_image.png
|Has imagedesc=The Dimension 1200 SST Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has make=Stratasys
|Has model=1200 SST
|Has ace=Joshua Consenz;jconsenz18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|300px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Dimension is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] printer made by Stratasys. It is designed with ultimate simplicity in mind. The system enables you to build parts quickly, even if you’ve never used a 3D printer before. Its display panel prompts you to press a few keys to get you modeling quickly.
The system models with ABS plastic, so modeled parts are strong and durable. ABS also ensures you’ll be able to drill, tap, sand, and paint your creations. With the speed and convenience of Breakaway Support Technology (BST) or Soluble Support Technology (SST), your completed parts are quickly available for review and test. SST allows for parts that are printed on the Dimension to have a more porous or odd geometry, such as overhangs, to be printed with relative ease in comparison with other filament based 3D printers.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

[https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/dimension-1200 Product Home Page]

[[Media:Dimension 1200es user guide.pdf|User Manual]]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

=== GrabCAD Print ===
GrabCAD Print is the software that both the Dimension and [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] use, and allows you to easily orient and view the part you want to model. Both printers are web based, which allows you to start the print from the one of the lab's computers.

On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you select the printer you want to use for the part you want to print, the volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best. The menu the the right of the image shows the printer options, make sure you select the correct printer, in this case it is the Dimension. After ensuring you have the software correctly set up, open your file and place it on the build plate, '''''Note: your file has to be in STL format to work with any printing software.''''' The build plate is correctly scaled to the actual build plate, so when sizing up or down you can check the size and placement of the print with the build plate. '''''Note: The following pictures show a single part being printed, during regular lab hours the Dimension is only started when the plate is mostly full to be printed overnight.'''''

[[File:Opening File(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

After importing all parts resize and orient your parts based on what the final product needs to be accomplished, with no one dimension being larger than 11 inches. Orienting the part is crucial for the print as this will determine how much support material is used as well as the strength of the part. To reduce support material used, orient your part with the most amount of surface are in contact with the plate, and with as few features positioned above cavities in the part. For maximum strength, orient your part so that the layers are parallel with the direction that the anticipated force will be applied, printing the layers perpendicular to the force can cause the layers to peel away from one another if the force is strong enough. If you have a red error in the model, enter analysis mode and click repair as shown in the picture below.

[[File:Troubleshooting(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

After correctly orienting and sizing the part, click '''Slice Preview''' to see how the Dimension will print your part, total layers, and path of the nozzle. Inspect your part to ensure that it will print correctly, and has a low chance of failing. You can watch an animation of your part being built, layer by layer, and do other analysis before printing. Click '''View Estimates''', found in green near the bottom right corner, to see an approximation of how long the print will take, and the amount of material used. Be sure that this information is recorded in the Job Log. Fix any potential problems that you may have seen, and when you are sure that the part is correctly oriented on the build plate. You may now click Print, locate on the bottom right of the screen. '''''Note: Very rarely will a single part be printed on the Dimension or F370, do not start a print without other parts unless cleared by the lab helper.'''''

[[File:Slice Preview(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

=== Printing ===
Once the Job has been sent to the Dimension, the control panel will display the most recent job sent to it. Check that the amount of support and model material, indicated on the top most display, is sufficient for the print and when ready, press the button to the right of the display that says start model.[[File:Dimension Control Panel.jpg|center|677x677px]]

=== Finished Parts ===
Once your part is finished, the plate can be removed by moving the tabs downward, pulling the plate forward, and lifting to remove. The following pictures show that process.[[File:Finished Part.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Loosening Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Sliding Plate Forward.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Plate is Removed.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Placing Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Sliding Plate Foreward.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Locking Plate In.jpg|center|700x700px]]

==== '''Removing Support Material''' ====
After removing the plate from the Dimension remove your part from the build plate by using the scraping tool and running the tool along the build plate, as shown in the picture below, and hitting the support material. Continue this process until the part is chipped off of the build plate. Once the part is removed, place in the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] to remove any left over support material.[[File:Chipping at Support Material.jpg|center|754x754px]]

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

==== '''Changing Material''' ====
''*Only volunteers will change out materials. If the Dimension runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.*''

The Dimension has two separate types of material, Model and Support. These two filaments are located on the front of the Dimension, with the Model in the top slot, and the support on the bottom. To change material for either modeling or support, click the button next to the display that says "Material . . ." and then click "Unload" from there. Select which filament you want to exchange, and then press in on that cartridge to remove it. The cartridge will click out, and you can now reel in the material as the Dimension removes it by spinning a wheel on the right hand side.

To load a material is very similar. Select the filament you want to replace, and insert the tip into a hole located in the slot. The Dimension will grab the filament and pull it up to the extruder nozzle. Place the cartridge back into the Dimension, and push it forwards until you hear a click.
[[Category:Prototyping Lab]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

Dimension 3D Printer

2019-08-04T21:32:03Z

Youngj17:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:dimension_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Dimension Icon
|Has iconwname=File:dimension_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Dimension_printer_image.png
|Has imagedesc=The Dimension 1200 SST Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has make=Stratasys
|Has model=1200 SST
|Has ace=Joshua Consenz;jconsenz18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|300px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
The Dimension is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] printer made by Stratasys. It is designed with ultimate simplicity in mind. The system enables you to build parts quickly, even if you’ve never used a 3D printer before. Its display panel prompts you to press a few keys to get you modeling quickly.
The system models with ABS plastic, so modeled parts are strong and durable. ABS also ensures you’ll be able to drill, tap, sand, and paint your creations. With the speed and convenience of Breakaway Support Technology (BST) or Soluble Support Technology (SST), your completed parts are quickly available for review and test. SST allows for parts that are printed on the Dimension to have a more porous or odd geometry, such as overhangs, to be printed with relative ease in comparison with other filament based 3D printers.
 
The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* [https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/dimension-1200 Product Home Page]
* [[Media:Dimension_1200es_user_guide.pdf|User Guide]]

== Training ==

=== '''Maintenance and Setup''' ===
[[Category:Prototyping Lab]]

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Dimension is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] printer made by Stratasys. It is designed with ultimate simplicity in mind. The system enables you to build parts quickly, even if you’ve never used a 3D printer before. Its display panel prompts you to press a few keys to get you modeling quickly.
The system models with ABS plastic, so modeled parts are strong and durable. ABS also ensures you’ll be able to drill, tap, sand, and paint your creations. With the speed and convenience of Breakaway Support Technology (BST) or Soluble Support Technology (SST), your completed parts are quickly available for review and test. SST allows for parts that are printed on the Dimension to have a more porous or odd geometry, such as overhangs, to be printed with relative ease in comparison with other filament based 3D printers.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

Insert video media here.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here

[https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/dimension-1200 Product Home Page]

[[Media:Dimension 1200es user guide.pdf|User Manual]]

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Insert text

====General Procedure====

=== GrabCAD Print ===
GrabCAD Print is the software that both the Dimension and [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] use, and allows you to easily orient and view the part you want to model. Both printers are web based, which allows you to start the print from the one of the lab's computers.

On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you select the printer you want to use for the part you want to print, the volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best. The menu the the right of the image shows the printer options, make sure you select the correct printer, in this case it is the Dimension. After ensuring you have the software correctly set up, open your file and place it on the build plate, '''''Note: your file has to be in STL format to work with any printing software.''''' The build plate is correctly scaled to the actual build plate, so when sizing up or down you can check the size and placement of the print with the build plate. '''''Note: The following pictures show a single part being printed, during regular lab hours the Dimension is only started when the plate is mostly full to be printed overnight.'''''

[[File:Opening File(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

After importing all parts resize and orient your parts based on what the final product needs to be accomplished, with no one dimension being larger than 11 inches. Orienting the part is crucial for the print as this will determine how much support material is used as well as the strength of the part. To reduce support material used, orient your part with the most amount of surface are in contact with the plate, and with as few features positioned above cavities in the part. For maximum strength, orient your part so that the layers are parallel with the direction that the anticipated force will be applied, printing the layers perpendicular to the force can cause the layers to peel away from one another if the force is strong enough. If you have a red error in the model, enter analysis mode and click repair as shown in the picture below.

[[File:Troubleshooting(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

After correctly orienting and sizing the part, click '''Slice Preview''' to see how the Dimension will print your part, total layers, and path of the nozzle. Inspect your part to ensure that it will print correctly, and has a low chance of failing. You can watch an animation of your part being built, layer by layer, and do other analysis before printing. Click '''View Estimates''', found in green near the bottom right corner, to see an approximation of how long the print will take, and the amount of material used. Be sure that this information is recorded in the Job Log. Fix any potential problems that you may have seen, and when you are sure that the part is correctly oriented on the build plate. You may now click Print, locate on the bottom right of the screen. '''''Note: Very rarely will a single part be printed on the Dimension or F370, do not start a print without other parts unless cleared by the lab helper.'''''

[[File:Slice Preview(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]

=== Printing ===
Once the Job has been sent to the Dimension, the control panel will display the most recent job sent to it. Check that the amount of support and model material, indicated on the top most display, is sufficient for the print and when ready, press the button to the right of the display that says start model.[[File:Dimension Control Panel.jpg|center|677x677px]]

=== Finished Parts ===
Once your part is finished, the plate can be removed by moving the tabs downward, pulling the plate forward, and lifting to remove. The following pictures show that process.[[File:Finished Part.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Loosening Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Sliding Plate Forward.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Plate is Removed.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Placing Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Sliding Plate Foreward.jpg|center|700x700px]]
[[File:Locking Plate In.jpg|center|700x700px]]

==== '''Removing Support Material''' ====
After removing the plate from the Dimension remove your part from the build plate by using the scraping tool and running the tool along the build plate, as shown in the picture below, and hitting the support material. Continue this process until the part is chipped off of the build plate. Once the part is removed, place in the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] to remove any left over support material.[[File:Chipping at Support Material.jpg|center|754x754px]]

==Safety==
Insert text

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

==== '''Changing Material''' ====
''*Only volunteers will change out materials. If the Dimension runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.*''

The Dimension has two separate types of material, Model and Support. These two filaments are located on the front of the Dimension, with the Model in the top slot, and the support on the bottom. To change material for either modeling or support, click the button next to the display that says "Material . . ." and then click "Unload" from there. Select which filament you want to exchange, and then press in on that cartridge to remove it. The cartridge will click out, and you can now reel in the material as the Dimension removes it by spinning a wheel on the right hand side.

To load a material is very similar. Select the filament you want to replace, and insert the tip into a hole located in the slot. The Dimension will grab the filament and pull it up to the extruder nozzle. Place the cartridge back into the Dimension, and push it forwards until you hear a click.
[[Category:Prototyping Lab]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}