makerhub - User contributions [en]

Reflow Oven

2022-02-01T03:57:03Z

Mmartin18: /* Safety */ Oven may not be left unattended

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|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297
|Has make=LPKF
|Has model=ProtoFlow S N2
|Has serial number=0Z2701N343
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu
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[[File:Reflow oven icon.png|left|140x140px|frameless]]
[[File:....theOven.jpg|thumb|400x400px]]

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__TOC__

==Description==

The Reflow Oven (ProtoFlow S N2) is LPKF's premiere convection oven, ideal for lead-free reflow soldering, meeting the stringent demands of rapid PCB soldering applications. The Reflow Oven features even heat distribution, easy programming, and many pre-defined temperature profiles. The compact design and efficient power consumption make it one of the most useful components in any rapid PCB prototyping environment. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zsvn2-WkZLk}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|LCD Dispay
File:bake_go.jpg|Tray
</gallery>

* [https://www.lpkfusa.com/products/pcb_prototyping/smt_assembling/protoflow_s/ Product Home Page]
* [[Media:protoflow_datasheet.pdf|Datasheet]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Reflow Oven bakes PCBs to harden the traces and pads where components are laid. It's just like your oven at home with a few extra accessories, like preset profiles that adjust the temperature and time based on the ink/paste you put on your board.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the oven, the student will have a PCB prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Power the Reflow Oven on by pressing the power button on the front.
# Select the respective ink/paste on the LCD Display. Different inks and pastes have different heat cycles, so it is important that you choose the right one. You can scroll through the options using the Up and Down keys. The Left key goes back, and the Right key selects. In this specific instance, V1 Ink is selected. Recall that each dispenser is assigned to a color. Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and Blue is Sn63Pb37.[[File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_ink_selection.jpg]]
# The oven will warm up. When its ready, select "Enter" to open the tray.
# '''DANGER: The rails could be HOT! Take caution.''' Place the board securely on the rails.[[File:bake_place.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_place.jpg]]
# Select "Enter" to close the tray.
# The preheat will take 2 minutes. The baking process takes about 30 minutes for traces and 3 minutes for the paste.
# The tray will automatically open to initiate the cool down phase. At the end of this process, the traces and pads will harden. '''DO NOT remove the board until the oven says all the stages are complete. DANGER: The rails are HOT!'''
# When cool down is complete, remove the board from the oven, and turn off the oven.

==Safety==
# '''Never''' place anything in front of the oven door inside of the yellow striped area. This could result in severe damage to the oven.
# Under no circumstances may the lab be left unattended for more than a brief minute while the oven is running.
# Always follow the instructions on the LCD Display. It is your guide that keeps you safe.
# When the tray opens up after baking a board, be patient and let the board cool down. If you handle it while it is too hot, it can burn you and shift your components (not good).
# Once you are finished using the Reflow Oven, clean the inside and turn it off. '''RESET THE SPACE'''.
# If you do not want to risk being burnt by the rails when you place your board in the oven, open the tray and place your board '''BEFORE''' beginning the baking process.
# If you do get burnt, immediately place the burn under cold running cold water for a while. There is a sink to the right of the oven to help you out. This keeps it from blistering.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
There are little to no issues to run into while using the oven. The most common issue is failure to select the correct profile, which results in non-hardened traces and pads. Remember, Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and blue is SN63Pb37. If this happens, simply bake the board again using the correct profile. In the event that something happens out of the ordinary, follow the table below.

[[File:...ovenTroubleshooting.png|none|thumb]]

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The oven should always be clean. Make sure it is clean before and after use. If something is not working and needs to be fixed, refer to the table above in the Troubleshooting section.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
Refer to the table in the Troubleshooting section for advanced solutions.
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Remove Debris
|Before and after each use
|Student
|}
__TOC__

 <references />

Topic:Woxyx7h5tkqhg0d1

2022-01-28T06:55:52Z

Mmartin18 (talk | contribs) commented on "Proposed deletion" (Proposed to delete this page. Reason: Page is orphaned, superseded by Dissolvable Support Bath ...also sodium hydroxide is a base, not an...)

Acid Bath

2022-01-28T06:54:34Z

Mmartin18: Added to proposed deletion

[[Category: Proposed deletion]]

The Acid Bath is a large container of Sodium Hydroxide that is used to dissolve support material from parts printed on the Dimension and F370 printers.

more information to come at a later date

Tools

2022-01-28T06:44:22Z

Mmartin18: Replaced bad icon for punch with image pending

[[Tools]] (both hand tools and power tools) are stored at various locations in the Maker Hub. Tools do not require certified training before use, but users are expected to familiarize themselves with tool operation by viewing the appropriate Wiki page. Furthermore, as part of the '''Safety First'' commandment, users are encouraged to seek help and instruction for any tool that they feel uncomfortable using. Volunteers will be available to serve these needs.

This page contains a list of the tools available in the Maker Hub. Please see the [[Tool Room]] page for more information.

{{#ask:
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{{ToolInfo
|A.C. Clampmeter
|This instrument can be clamped over a wire to measure the current flowing through it.
|[[File:Clampmeter.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Cordless Drill
|You can use a cordless drill driver to drill or bore holes, drive screws, assemble furniture, and woodworking.
|[[File:Drill.png|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Bubble Level
|A bubble level has many uses including, but not limited to verify plumb and level. Some of the many uses include picture and sign hanging, post installation, machine leveling.
|[[File:Bubble levelBubble level2.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Punch
|This is some sample text. This is also some sample text. I am a big fan of sample text. This is some sample text. This is also some sample text. I am a big fan of sample text. This is some sample text. This is also some sample text. I am a big fan of sample text.
|[[File:image_pending.png|center|100px]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|DC Power Supply
|A desktop device to provide DC power to a circuit at a specified voltage. Our BK Precision power supplies have three outputs: two output 0-24 V variable voltage with a max current of .5 A, and one outputs a fixed 5 V with a max current of 4 A. The electronics station in the center of the Maker Hub has several power supplies available for use. If all of these are in use, or if you would like to use a power supply elsewhere in the Hub, you can check one out from the Tool Room.
|[[File:DC Power SupplyDC PS.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Multimeter
|An instrument for conducting measurements on a circuit. They can measure DC voltage, AC RMS Voltage, current, resistance, and more. Multimeters are essential tools for testing or troubleshooting a circuit. The tool room has two kinds available for checkout: handheld and desktop. There are also several desktop multimeters available for use at the electronics station in the center of the Maker Hub.
|[[File:Multall of them01.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Oscilloscope
|An instrument for measuring and graphically displaying varying signal voltages. They can can plot a changing electrical signal over time, and then analyze it for properties including frequency, wavelength, and amplitude. Our oscilloscopes have four channels, meaning they can display four signals at once.
|[[File:OscilloscopeOS.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Function Generator
|A device which can produce a basic electrical signal. Our function generators can produce sine waves, square waves, and triangle waves at frequencies between 1 Hz and 10 MHz. They can also be configured to produce a "sweep signal" - a signal with a linearly varying frequency.
|[[File:FunctionGeneratorFG.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Soldering Iron
|A hand tool which heats metal solder in order to join two components. Soldering is most commonly used to join electrical components in a circuit. There are two soldering kits for use at the electronics station in the center of the Maker Hub, and there are also several available for checkout in the Tool Room. For your safety, please always place the soldering iron in its holder when not in use. Always use a fume extractor to protect yourself from harmful fumes. Soldering kits also come with a tackle box containing useful tools for soldering, such as wire crimpers. Please make sure all contents of this box are returned when you finish using a soldering kit.
|[[File:WELLER soldering iron.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Fume Extractor
|A device which uses a fan to collect and filter harmful fumes. Always use one of these when soldering for your protection.
|[[File:FUMEextractorFE.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Electronic Scale
|Device to measure weight or mass.
|[[File:R0101.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Laser Thermometers
|Handheld device that can display temperature readout on it after scanning portions of an object or area with the built-in laser. They tend to be inaccurate when measuring shiny objects, putting some non-reflective tape on the object can help give a better measurement.
|[[File:LASER THERMOMETERS.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Dremel
|Hand powered tool with different tips, that is mostly used for craft purposes, such as carving, etching and sanding small items.
|[[File:Dremel.jpg|100px|center]]
|Power Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Cordless 1/2" Impact Driver and sockets
|The impact Driver is specially designed for tightening and loosening various hex-head bolts, nuts, and lag screws. It employs both rotational force (torque) and short-burst concussive blows (impacts) to deliver an unparalleled amount of power.
|[[File:Impact.wrench and sockets.jpg|100px|center]]
|Power Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Holesaw Kit
|A holesaw is used in a drill to cut perfectly round holes in a wide variety of materials
|[[File:Hole saw kit.jpg|100px|center]]
|Power Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Heat Gun
|A power tool that emits a stream of hot air, usually at temperatures between 100 °C and 550 °C (200-1000 °F), with some hotter models running around 760 °C (1400 °F), which can be held by hand
|[[File:Heat gun.jpg|100px|center]]
|Power Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Pressure Regulator
|This is for reducing the air pressure of a compressed air bottle.
|[[File:Press Regul.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Type K Thermometer
|A thermocouple for measuring temperatures between -50C and 1300C.
|[[File:Type'k'Thermo.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Digital Tachometer
|This is an instrument that is used to measure revolutions per minute or RPM. This is a non contact device that uses light and a reflector. This device can be used to measure the RPM of a motor shaft.
|[[File:Digital Tachometer.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Helium Balloon Inflator
|This is connected to a helium bottle and allows the user to fill a helium balloon.
|[[File:Ballom inflator.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Bottle Jack
|This is a hydraulic jack and can be used for lifting heavy objects. Never put anything under heavy objects that you wouldn't want crushed.
|[[File:Bottle jack.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Battery Charger
|This is a battery charger for lead acid batteries.
|[[File:Battery charger.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|LED Worklight
|A really bright light for illuminating an area.
|[[File:Led working light.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Portable Vise
|A vice grip for holding things.
|[[File:Vicegrip.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Mirror
|An extendable mirror for viewing hard-to-see places.
|[[File:Mirror.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Rivet Gun
|A tool for driving rivets.
|[[File:Rivet gun.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Battery Terminal Cleaner
|A wire brush designed to remove corrosion and contaminants from the terminals of a car battery.
|[[File:Battery Terminal Cleaner.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Tarp
|A big, blue, crinkly tarp. Include size...
|[[File:RUG.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Robin Boards
|AVR training board used in ENGE320. Coupled with the Atmel 328P Xplained. Shield includes a 7-Segment display, some buttons, a switch, RGB LED's, and a piezo buzzer.
|[[File:Robin Boards.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|BTMN Board
|ARM training board used in ENGE320. Coupled with the Arduino Zero. Shield includes an AMOLED display, joystick, DPAD, RGB LED's, accelerometer, SD Card slot, and a piezo buzzer.
|[[File:Robin Boards large.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Basys 3 FPGA Board
|FPGA training board used in ENGE220. Has a bank of switches, buttons, LCD display, 7-Segment display, piezo buzzer, stepper motor driver, and more!
|[[File:Boards long.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Logic Analyzer
|Used to monitor and debug various digital signals and communication busses.
|[[File:Logic Analyzer.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Helping Hands
|An extra set of hands to hold things while soldering.
|[[File:Helping hands.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Analog Discovery 2
|A USB oscilloscope, logic analyzer, and multi-function instrument that allows users to measure, visualize, generate, record, and control mixed-signal circuits of all kinds.
|[[File:Analog Discovery 2.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Digilent Nexys 2
|A powerful digital system design platform built around a Xilinx Spartan-3E FPGA.
|[[File:Digilent Nexys 2.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Digital Logic Probes
|Probes that can be used with...
|[[File:Digital Logic Probes.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Solder Sucker
|For sucking solder.
|[[File:Sucker .jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|PCB Tweezers
|Tweezers for PCBs.
|[[File:PCB Tweezers.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Needle Nose Pliers
|Skinny pliers.
|[[File:Nene.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Crimpers
|For crimping things.
|[[File:Crimpper.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Wire Strippers
|For stripping wire.
|[[File:Wirfe strippers.jpg|100px|center]]

|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Tweezers
|Generic tweezers.
|[[File:Tweeeezers.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Flux
|For soldering.
|[[File:Fluxxx.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Solder Station Sponges
|For cleaning the soldering iron tip.
|[[File:Spongee.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Eye Loupes
|Small magnifying glasses.
|[[File:Eye.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Tip Tinner
|Lead-free tip tinner for soldering.
|[[File:Tip tinner.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Heat Sink Clip
|Heat sink clip for soldering.
|[[File:Heat sink clop tool.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Solder Wicks
|For soldering.
|[[File:Solderwick.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Solder Tips
|Replacement tips for soldering irons.
|[[File:Tips.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Flux Brush
|For soldering.
|[[File:FLUXX BRUSDHH.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Flux Pen
|For soldering.
|[[File:FLUX PEN.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Pressure Guages
|For measuring pressure.
|[[File:Pre gage.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Clippers
|Also known as diagonal cutters.
|[[File:Clippers.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|X-acto Knives and Blades
|Very sharp.
|[[File:Bladesss.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}

Topic:Woxxv6k5kku2u85x

2022-01-28T06:36:54Z

Mmartin18 (talk | contribs) commented on "Proposed deletion" (Propose that this page be deleted. Reason: Page is orphaned, superseded by Blast Cabinet)

Abrasive Blast Cabinet

2022-01-28T06:36:21Z

Mmartin18: Added to proposed deletion

[[Category: Proposed deletion]]

Topic:Woxxr1ecdl5ux61h

2022-01-28T06:34:50Z

Mmartin18 (talk | contribs) commented on "Proposed deletion" (Propose that this page be deleted. Reason: Page is orphaned, superseded by Plasma Cutter)

Miller Spectrum 875 Plasma Cutter

2022-01-28T06:33:46Z

Mmartin18: Added to proposed deletion

[[Category:Proposed deletion]]

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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[File:Plas.jpg|thumb]]
 Miller Spectrum® 875 Plasma Cutter with 20 foot XT60 torch has compact size but 60 amps of output power.

It features easy operator controls, for optimum cutting and gouging performance.

= Documentation: =
https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/o242880c_mil.pdf

= Procedures: =
# Place fume hood over the area you will be welding at
# Turn air on
# Turn plasma cutter on
# Attach ground clamp
# Measure thickness of material being cut and refer to chart for current setting on machine
# Set the current on the plasma cutter
# Place the drag shield on the edge of the base metal, or hold ⅛ inch off the surface. Direct the arc straight down.
# Raise the trigger lock and press the trigger, this will engage the pilot arc
# Once the cutting starts, begin to slowly move the torch across the metal
# Adjust your speed so the sparks go thru the metal and out the bottom of the cut
# At the end of the cut, angle the torch slightly towards the final edge or pause briefly before releasing the trigger
# Turn off machine
# Turn off air
# Disconnect ground clamp

= Warnings: =
# Don't cut lead, zinc, copper, cadmium, stainless, or beryllium.
# Don't attempt to cut with the oxygen off
# Don’t cut with the vent hood off

Category:Proposed deletion

2022-01-28T06:26:57Z

Mmartin18: Created page with "{{#default_form:}}"

MicrochipStudio

2022-01-28T06:11:47Z

Mmartin18: Updated link (for real this time)

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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
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Microchip Studio is the integrated development platform (IDP) for developing and debugging all AVR® and SAM microcontroller applications. The Microchip Studio IDP gives you a seamless and easy-to-use environment to write, build and debug your applications written in C/C++ or assembly code. It also connects seamlessly to the debuggers, programmers and development kits that support AVR® and SAM devices.

==Installation==
Click this link to be directed to our internal site for {{PAGENAME}} install instructions and download [https://makerhub-internal.georgefox.edu/wiki/{{PAGENAME}} internal site]

Logic

2022-01-28T06:08:47Z

Mmartin18: Updated version

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|Has version=2.3.44
|Has url=https://www.saleae.com/
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
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Saleae logic analyzers are used by electrical engineers, firmware developers, enthusiasts, and engineering students to record, measure, visualize, and decode the signals in their electrical circuits.

https://www.saleae.com/videos/Record.mp4

== Installation ==
See the [https://www.saleae.com/downloads/ Logic Download page] for installation instructions.

MicrochipStudio

2022-01-28T05:31:39Z

Mmartin18: Updated link

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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
{{#ask:[[{{FULLPAGENAME}}]]
|?Has icon=Software Logo
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Microchip Studio is the integrated development platform (IDP) for developing and debugging all AVR® and SAM microcontroller applications. The Microchip Studio IDP gives you a seamless and easy-to-use environment to write, build and debug your applications written in C/C++ or assembly code. It also connects seamlessly to the debuggers, programmers and development kits that support AVR® and SAM devices.

== Installation ==
Click this link to be directed to our internal site for {{PAGENAME}} install instructions and download [https://makerhub-internal.georgefox.edu/wiki/{{PAGENAME}} internal site]

MicrochipStudio

2022-01-28T05:30:41Z

Mmartin18: Changed Atmel Studio 7 to Microchip Studio

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Microchip Studio is the integrated development platform (IDP) for developing and debugging all AVR® and SAM microcontroller applications. The Microchip Studio IDP gives you a seamless and easy-to-use environment to write, build and debug your applications written in C/C++ or assembly code. It also connects seamlessly to the debuggers, programmers and development kits that support AVR® and SAM devices.

== Installation ==
Click this link to be directed to our internal site for {{PAGENAME}} install instructions and download [https://makerhub-internal.georgefox.edu/wiki/{{PAGENAME}} internal site]

Rework Station

2022-01-28T05:19:53Z

Mmartin18: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */ Add tasks for emptyingand replacing filter on desoldering gun

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Solder Rework Station.png
|Has icondesc=Rework Station Icon
|Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png
|Has image=File:Rework Station.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Rework Station
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297
|Has group=
|Has make=Zephyrtronics
|Has model=ZT-2, ZT-3, ZT-1-CLS-DPU, Hakko FR-301, Quick861DW
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[File:Rework Station.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Solder Rework Station.png|left|110x110px|frameless]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Rework Station is essential for fixing what you messed up during the fabrication process. Consisting of an Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, the Rework Station allows you heat up a specific area of the PCB and make modifications, whether that means adding/removing some solder on the pads, rotating a component, or completely replacing a component. Other tools are available for similar purposes, such as a desoldering gun, and an additional heat gun for larger components.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_yFDpSTfao}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:...airBath.jpg|Air Bath (ZT-1-CLS-DPU)
File:...airPencil.jpg|Air Pencil (ZT-2)
File:...airPick.jpg|Air Pick (ZT-3)
File:...desolderingGun.jpg|Desoldering Gun (Hakko FR-301)
File:...heatGun.jpg|Heat Gun (Quick861DW)
</gallery>

[http://www.zeph.com/smdpreheater.htm Zephyrtronics Airbath]

[http://www.zeph.com/pencil.html Zephyrtronics Airpencil]

[http://www.zeph.com/zt3web.htm Zephyrtronics Airpick]

[https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr301.html Hakko FR-301]

[http://www.quick-global.com/2-lead-free-rework-2.html Quick-861DW]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Airbath can heat up to 205 °C, which can be enough to melt the solder on a PCB. Some solder melts at even higher temperatures than this, which can be achieved using the Air Pencil and/or Heat Gun. Essentially, the Air Bath heats up the board and the Air Pencil finishes the job by heating up the part of the board that we want to fix (because we don't want to melt the solder on the parts that are already good to go). This is where the Air Pick and tweezers come in. After heating up the part we want to fix, the tweezers are used to remove a component while the Air Pick uses a vacuum to place a component on the board. If the component is too small, using tweezers to pick up the component is also a good alternative.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Air Bath, Air Pencil, Air Pick, Desoldering Gun, and Heat Gun, the student will have a PCB prepared and perform tasks with the station as a whole. Using the Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, students will remove a SMD and solder it back on. Using the Desoldering Gun, students will remove a soldered through hole component. Using the Heat Gun, students will mount a larger SMD, solder it on, and then remove it.

====General Procedure====

#Fixing/Replacing SMD Components
##Before turning on the Air Bath, clamp the PCB on the black stand, preferably placing it so that the component you want to fix is directly above the air. You should not be able to move the board once it is clamped. Keeping it sturdy helps from accidentally moving the PCB during the reworking process.
##The Air Bath has a power switch on the left, three buttons on the right, and a screen on the right. The switch has 3 positions which allows you to choose Cool, Off, and Warm by pressing it in their respective directions. The button on the right allow you to adjust the temperature in a rather funny way. The middle button has a down arrow while the right button has an up arrow, indicating which button decreases/increases the temperature of the bath. However, you need to hold down the left button while doing so. For instance, to increase the temperature, you would hold the left and right buttons at the same time.[[File:AirBathBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
##Now you will heat up the Air Bath. Hit the Power switch on the front, and set the temperature about 20-30 °C below the solder's melting point. The melting point for your solder can be found using the table below. Voltera's Solder Paste (Orange) melts at lower temperatures than the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste (Blue). If the Voltera Solder Paste says T4 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 180 °C. If the Voltera Solder Paste says T5 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. If you are using the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. [[File:...meltingPointTable.png|none|thumb]]
##Once the board is heated, you can use the Air Pencil to heat up a specific component. The pencil blows hot air out the end. When you turn it on, adjust the settings to be 3/4 of the heat capacity and about 1/3 of the air flow. We do this because when the air flow is maximized at full temperature, it does not get hot enough to melt the solder. Too much air flow is bad.
##Hold the tip of the pencil over the SMD you want to solder/desolder, and move it slightly around the leads to allow for more distribution of heat. If it is not heating it up, try turning the heat of the pencil higher. This should allow for your SMD components solder to melt, and you will be able to pick up the component up with a pair of static-safe tweezers or the Air Pick. If you are soldering a part on, make sure to generously apply flux to the pads, and make sure all the solder sticks to the pads after heating.
##If the pencil is not doing a good enough job to heat up the component, then you may graduate to using the bigger heat gun, the Quick861DW. The same theoretical concepts apply, however, one potential downside of this is that it affects a larger area than the pencil. You may unintentionally melt the solder of components that you don't want to melt, so be extra careful my dudes.
##The Air Pick uses a vacuum to pick up and place components. Typically you would use both hands for this; one hand heats up the component with the pencil and the other grabs the component with the pick.
##On the handle of the pick there is a divot that is connected to the vacuum. When you plug the divot with your finger, it will enable it to pick up a component. When you release your finger from the divot, it will let go of the component. There are different tips that you will place on the end of the tip based on the component you want to pick up, each having a different size for varying components.
#Desoldering Through Hole Components
##For desoldering through hole components, you will want to use the Desoldering Gun. It has a hot tip that can fit over a solder joint and utilizes a vacuum when the trigger is pulled. As a result, it melts the solder and sucks it into a cartridge, completely removing the joint.
##Before using the Desoldering Gun, make sure you have the little metal stand for the gun to sit on for safety purposes. Have Solder ready nearby to tin the tip before use, and clean the tip after tinning using the wire mesh.
##On the handle of the gun there is a temperature control wheel that ranges from 1-4 (coolest to hottest). Be sure to set it to the correct temperature using the graphic below. Typically, a through hole component would require you to set the scale to 2.[[File:...SolderingGun.png|none|thumb]]
##To use the Desoldering Gun, briefly put the top over a solder joint (not completely on the PCB or you might damage it), press the trigger to enable the vacuum, and the solder should be sucked away!
##Tin the tip before cooldown, and take note that the cooldown may take a bit of time. Don't burn yourself!

==Safety==
The most important thing about all these machines: THEY GET REALLY HOT!

Be so so careful because these machines can get up to temperatures of potentially 700°F. Always be wary of where you are blowing the hot air with the air guns, so you don’t melt other things. Be wary of how hot your PCB can get, and always put the cooling setting on after you’re finished with the Air Bath before picking your PCB up, because you can burn yourself.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1300 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

#Suppose the solder isn't melting. Consult the temperature table in the General Procedure, chances are that you just need to make it hotter, little by little.
#Suppose the Air Pick is not picking up the component. Use the appropriate tip and make sure you are plugging the little divot to enable it to pick up. If these aren't working, resort to using tweezers.
#Suppose the components are getting blown away from the pads you want it to sit on. Well, turn down the air my dude.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Wrap all cords and make them look tidy. Make sure all devices are turned off and returned to their original place. Do not leave tweezers or extra parts laying around, put them back in the accessories drawer.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after every use
|Student
|-
|Tinning tip of Desoldering Gun
|Before and after every use
|Student
|-
|Emptying solder out of desoldering gun reservoir
|As needed
|Student/Ace
|-
|Replacing desoldering gun filter
|As needed
|Ace
|}

Reflow Oven

2022-01-28T05:16:15Z

Mmartin18: /* Safety */ Added remark about not blocking oven door

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:reflow_oven_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Reflow Oven Icon
|Has image=File:protoflow.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Protoflow Reflow Oven
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297
|Has make=LPKF
|Has model=ProtoFlow S N2
|Has serial number=0Z2701N343
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:Reflow oven icon.png|left|140x140px|frameless]]
[[File:....theOven.jpg|thumb|400x400px]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Reflow Oven (ProtoFlow S N2) is LPKF's premiere convection oven, ideal for lead-free reflow soldering, meeting the stringent demands of rapid PCB soldering applications. The Reflow Oven features even heat distribution, easy programming, and many pre-defined temperature profiles. The compact design and efficient power consumption make it one of the most useful components in any rapid PCB prototyping environment. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zsvn2-WkZLk}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|LCD Dispay
File:bake_go.jpg|Tray
</gallery>

* [https://www.lpkfusa.com/products/pcb_prototyping/smt_assembling/protoflow_s/ Product Home Page]
* [[Media:protoflow_datasheet.pdf|Datasheet]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Reflow Oven bakes PCBs to harden the traces and pads where components are laid. It's just like your oven at home with a few extra accessories, like preset profiles that adjust the temperature and time based on the ink/paste you put on your board.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the oven, the student will have a PCB prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Power the Reflow Oven on by pressing the power button on the front.
# Select the respective ink/paste on the LCD Display. Different inks and pastes have different heat cycles, so it is important that you choose the right one. You can scroll through the options using the Up and Down keys. The Left key goes back, and the Right key selects. In this specific instance, V1 Ink is selected. Recall that each dispenser is assigned to a color. Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and Blue is Sn63Pb37.[[File:bake_ink_selection.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_ink_selection.jpg]]
# The oven will warm up. When its ready, select "Enter" to open the tray.
# '''DANGER: The rails could be HOT! Take caution.''' Place the board securely on the rails.[[File:bake_place.jpg|300x300px|none|link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bake_place.jpg]]
# Select "Enter" to close the tray.
# The preheat will take 2 minutes. The baking process takes about 30 minutes for traces and 3 minutes for the paste.
# The tray will automatically open to initiate the cool down phase. At the end of this process, the traces and pads will harden. '''DO NOT remove the board until the oven says all the stages are complete. DANGER: The rails are HOT!'''
# When cool down is complete, remove the board from the oven, and turn off the oven.

==Safety==
# '''Never''' place anything in front of the oven door inside of the yellow striped area. This could result in severe damage to the oven.
# Always follow the instructions on the LCD Display. It is your guide that keeps you safe.
# When the tray opens up after baking a board, be patient and let the board cool down. If you handle it while it is too hot, it can burn you and shift your components (not good).
# Once you are finished using the Reflow Oven, clean the inside and turn it off. '''RESET THE SPACE'''.
# If you do not want to risk being burnt by the rails when you place your board in the oven, open the tray and place your board '''BEFORE''' beginning the baking process.
# If you do get burnt, immediately place the burn under cold running cold water for a while. There is a sink to the right of the oven to help you out. This keeps it from blistering.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
There are little to no issues to run into while using the oven. The most common issue is failure to select the correct profile, which results in non-hardened traces and pads. Remember, Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and blue is SN63Pb37. If this happens, simply bake the board again using the correct profile. In the event that something happens out of the ordinary, follow the table below.

[[File:...ovenTroubleshooting.png|none|thumb]]

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The oven should always be clean. Make sure it is clean before and after use. If something is not working and needs to be fixed, refer to the table above in the Troubleshooting section.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
Refer to the table in the Troubleshooting section for advanced solutions.
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Remove Debris
|Before and after each use
|Student
|}
__TOC__

 <references />

PCB Printer

2022-01-28T05:03:14Z

Mmartin18: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */ Added last time maintenance was performed, removed cleaning with isopropyl as this is no longer considered best practice

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Voltera Icon
|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288
|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
|Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://jlcpcb.com/ JLCPCB] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:Voltera substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:Vone probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser and Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:Voltera conductive ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:Voltera 225 nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:Voltera burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://support.voltera.io/altium#main Altium Gerber Export Guide]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB. [[File:Voltera-drillbits.png|thumb|300x300px|right|Available drill bit sizes]]

#Verify via hole sizes.
##Based on the size of what needs to go in the via, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
##Once you've selected the rivet size, take the outer diameter of the rivet from the table and add 0.1mm.
##Check this outer diameter against the available drill sizes for the Voltera (see the image to the right). Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for the hole size in Altium.
#Verify annular ring size
##Your annular rings (via diameter) should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
#Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]

#'''Drilling'''
##'''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
##After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
##For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
##Drilling for a Simple Board
###Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
##Drilling for an Aligned Board
###Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
#'''Ready the Ink'''
##The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
##Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
#'''Software Setup'''
##Download the files for this project [[Media:Pcb printer level 1.zip|here]].
##Power on the Voltera.
##Open the Voltera Windows application.
##Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
##Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
##Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
#'''Clamping the Substrate'''
##Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
##Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Mounting the Probe'''
##Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
##Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Positioning and Probing'''
##Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
##Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
##'''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
##In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
#'''Priming the Conductor'''
##Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
##'''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Calibration'''
##Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
##Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
##'''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
##If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
#'''Top Layer Print'''
##'''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
##Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
##Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
##When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
##Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process. Bake the board soon after printing to ensure best results.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
#'''Cleaning up'''
##Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
##If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Safety==

#When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
#If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

#Drilling
##If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
##If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
#Calibration/Alignment
##During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
##When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
#Printing Traces/Solder
##Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
##If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
| 01/27/2022 by MM
|}

PCB Printer

2022-01-28T04:57:12Z

Mmartin18: /* General Procedure */ Removed old info and added additional tips

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__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://jlcpcb.com/ JLCPCB] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:Voltera substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:Vone probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser and Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:Voltera conductive ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:Voltera 225 nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:Voltera burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://support.voltera.io/altium#main Altium Gerber Export Guide]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB. [[File:Voltera-drillbits.png|thumb|300x300px|right|Available drill bit sizes]]

#Verify via hole sizes.
##Based on the size of what needs to go in the via, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
##Once you've selected the rivet size, take the outer diameter of the rivet from the table and add 0.1mm.
##Check this outer diameter against the available drill sizes for the Voltera (see the image to the right). Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for the hole size in Altium.
#Verify annular ring size
##Your annular rings (via diameter) should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
#Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]

#'''Drilling'''
##'''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
##After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
##For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
##Drilling for a Simple Board
###Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
##Drilling for an Aligned Board
###Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
#'''Ready the Ink'''
##The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
##Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
#'''Software Setup'''
##Download the files for this project [[Media:Pcb printer level 1.zip|here]].
##Power on the Voltera.
##Open the Voltera Windows application.
##Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
##Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
##Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
#'''Clamping the Substrate'''
##Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
##Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Mounting the Probe'''
##Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
##Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Positioning and Probing'''
##Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
##Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
##'''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
##In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
#'''Priming the Conductor'''
##Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
##'''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Calibration'''
##Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
##Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
##'''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
##If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
#'''Top Layer Print'''
##'''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
##Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
##Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
##When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
##Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process. Bake the board soon after printing to ensure best results.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
#'''Cleaning up'''
##Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
##If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Safety==

#When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
#If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

#Drilling
##If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
##If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
#Calibration/Alignment
##During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
##When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
#Printing Traces/Solder
##Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
##If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
|
|}

PCB Printer

2022-01-28T04:52:27Z

Mmartin18: /* Terminology */ Added link to gerber export guide

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Voltera Icon
|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288
|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
|Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://jlcpcb.com/ JLCPCB] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:Voltera substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:Vone probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser and Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:Voltera conductive ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:Voltera 225 nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:Voltera burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://support.voltera.io/altium#main Altium Gerber Export Guide]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB. [[File:Voltera-drillbits.png|thumb|300x300px|right|Available drill bit sizes]]

#Verify via hole sizes.
##Based on the size of what needs to go in the via, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
##Once you've selected the rivet size, take the outer diameter of the rivet from the table and add 0.1mm.
##Check this outer diameter against the available drill sizes for the Voltera (see the image to the right). Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for the hole size in Altium.
#Verify annular ring size
##Your annular rings (via diameter) should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
#Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]

#'''Drilling'''
##'''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
##After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
##For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
##Drilling for a Simple Board
###Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
##Drilling for an Aligned Board
###Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
#'''Ready the Ink'''
##The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
##Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
##Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
#'''Software Setup'''
##Download the files for this project [[Media:Pcb printer level 1.zip|here]].
##Power on the Voltera.
##Open the Voltera Windows application.
##Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
##Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
##Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
#'''Clamping the Substrate'''
##Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
##Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Mounting the Probe'''
##Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
##Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Positioning and Probing'''
##Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
##Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
##'''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
##In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
#'''Priming the Conductor'''
##Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
##'''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Calibration'''
##Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
##Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
##'''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
##If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
#'''Top Layer Print'''
##'''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
##Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
##Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
##When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
##Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
#'''Cleaning up'''
##Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
##If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Safety==

#When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
#If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

#Drilling
##If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
##If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
#Calibration/Alignment
##During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
##When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
#Printing Traces/Solder
##Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
##If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
|
|}

PCB Printer

2022-01-28T04:51:47Z

Mmartin18: /* Before you Print */ Minor language edits

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Voltera Icon
|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288
|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
|Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://jlcpcb.com/ JLCPCB] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:Voltera substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:Vone probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser and Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:Voltera conductive ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:Voltera 225 nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:Voltera burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB. [[File:Voltera-drillbits.png|thumb|300x300px|right|Available drill bit sizes]]

#Verify via hole sizes.
##Based on the size of what needs to go in the via, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
##Once you've selected the rivet size, take the outer diameter of the rivet from the table and add 0.1mm.
##Check this outer diameter against the available drill sizes for the Voltera (see the image to the right). Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for the hole size in Altium.
#Verify annular ring size
##Your annular rings (via diameter) should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
#Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]

#'''Drilling'''
##'''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
##After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
##For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
##Drilling for a Simple Board
###Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
##Drilling for an Aligned Board
###Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
#'''Ready the Ink'''
##The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
##Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
##Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
#'''Software Setup'''
##Download the files for this project [[Media:Pcb printer level 1.zip|here]].
##Power on the Voltera.
##Open the Voltera Windows application.
##Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
##Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
##Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
#'''Clamping the Substrate'''
##Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
##Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Mounting the Probe'''
##Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
##Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Positioning and Probing'''
##Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
##Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
##'''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
##In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
#'''Priming the Conductor'''
##Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
##'''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Calibration'''
##Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
##Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
##'''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
##If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
#'''Top Layer Print'''
##'''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
##Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
##Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
##When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
##Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
#'''Cleaning up'''
##Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
##If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Safety==

#When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
#If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

#Drilling
##If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
##If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
#Calibration/Alignment
##During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
##When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
#Printing Traces/Solder
##Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
##If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
|
|}

PCB Printer

2022-01-28T04:42:26Z

Mmartin18: Changed drill bit image size

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|Has description=
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|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
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|Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120
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__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://jlcpcb.com/ JLCPCB] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:Voltera substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:Vone probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser and Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:Voltera conductive ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:Voltera 225 nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:Voltera burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB. [[File:Voltera-drillbits.png|thumb|300x300px|right|Available drill bit sizes]]

#Verify your hole sizes.
##Based on whatever needs to go in the hole, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
##Once you've selected the rivet size take the outer diameter of the rivet and add 0.1mm (per the table's instructions).
##Check this outer diameter against the drills in stock for the Voltera, see the image to the right. Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for your hole size in Altium.
#Verify annular ring size
##Your annular rings should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
#Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]

#'''Drilling'''
##'''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
##After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
##For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
##Drilling for a Simple Board
###Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
##Drilling for an Aligned Board
###Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
#'''Ready the Ink'''
##The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
##Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
##Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
#'''Software Setup'''
##Download the files for this project [[Media:Pcb printer level 1.zip|here]].
##Power on the Voltera.
##Open the Voltera Windows application.
##Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
##Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
##Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
#'''Clamping the Substrate'''
##Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
##Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Mounting the Probe'''
##Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
##Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Positioning and Probing'''
##Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
##Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
##'''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
##In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
#'''Priming the Conductor'''
##Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
##'''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Calibration'''
##Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
##Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
##'''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
##If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
#'''Top Layer Print'''
##'''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
##Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
##Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
##When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
##Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
#'''Cleaning up'''
##Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
##If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Safety==

#When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
#If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

#Drilling
##If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
##If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
#Calibration/Alignment
##During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
##When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
#Printing Traces/Solder
##Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
##If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
|
|}

PCB Printer

2022-01-28T04:41:41Z

Mmartin18: /* Before you Print */ Moved image, added caption

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__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://jlcpcb.com/ JLCPCB] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:Voltera substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:Vone probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser and Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:Voltera conductive ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:Voltera 225 nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:Voltera burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB. [[File:Voltera-drillbits.png|frame|200x200px|right|Available drill bit sizes]]

#Verify your hole sizes.
##Based on whatever needs to go in the hole, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
##Once you've selected the rivet size take the outer diameter of the rivet and add 0.1mm (per the table's instructions).
##Check this outer diameter against the drills in stock for the Voltera, see the image to the right. Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for your hole size in Altium.
#Verify annular ring size
##Your annular rings should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
#Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]

#'''Drilling'''
##'''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
##After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
##For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
##Drilling for a Simple Board
###Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
##Drilling for an Aligned Board
###Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
#'''Ready the Ink'''
##The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
##Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
##Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
#'''Software Setup'''
##Download the files for this project [[Media:Pcb printer level 1.zip|here]].
##Power on the Voltera.
##Open the Voltera Windows application.
##Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
##Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
##Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
#'''Clamping the Substrate'''
##Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
##Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Mounting the Probe'''
##Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
##Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Positioning and Probing'''
##Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
##Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
##'''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
##In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
#'''Priming the Conductor'''
##Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
##'''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Calibration'''
##Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
##Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
##'''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
##If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
#'''Top Layer Print'''
##'''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
##Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
##Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
##When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
##Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
#'''Cleaning up'''
##Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
##If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Safety==

#When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
#If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

#Drilling
##If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
##If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
#Calibration/Alignment
##During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
##When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
#Printing Traces/Solder
##Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
##If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
|
|}

PCB Printer

2022-01-28T04:37:04Z

Mmartin18: Header/image alignment

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__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://jlcpcb.com/ JLCPCB] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:Voltera substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:Vone probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser and Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:Voltera conductive ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:Voltera 225 nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:Voltera burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB.

#Verify your hole sizes.
##Based on whatever needs to go in the hole, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
##Once you've selected the rivet size take the outer diameter of the rivet and add 0.1mm (per the table's instructions).
##Check this outer diameter against the drills in stock for the Voltera, this list is below. Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for your hole size in Altium.
#Verify annular ring size
##Your annular rings should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
#Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

[[File:Voltera-drillbits.png|frameless|left|300px]]

 

 
==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]

#'''Drilling'''
##'''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
##After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
##For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
##Drilling for a Simple Board
###Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
##Drilling for an Aligned Board
###Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
###Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
###Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
###Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
###Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
###The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
###And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
#'''Ready the Ink'''
##The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
##Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
##Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
#'''Software Setup'''
##Download the files for this project [[Media:Pcb printer level 1.zip|here]].
##Power on the Voltera.
##Open the Voltera Windows application.
##Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
##Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
##Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
#'''Clamping the Substrate'''
##Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
##Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Mounting the Probe'''
##Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
##Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Positioning and Probing'''
##Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
##Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
##'''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
##In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
#'''Priming the Conductor'''
##Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
##'''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
#'''Calibration'''
##Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
##Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
##'''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
##If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
##Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
#'''Top Layer Print'''
##'''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
##Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
##Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
##When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
##Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
#'''Cleaning up'''
##Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
##If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Safety==

#When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
#If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

#Drilling
##If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
##If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
#Calibration/Alignment
##During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
##When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
#Printing Traces/Solder
##Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
##If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
|
|}

PCB Printer

2022-01-27T19:01:36Z

Mmartin18: /* Before you Print */ Added picture of available drill bits

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Voltera Icon
|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288
|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
|Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://jlcpcb.com/ JLCPCB] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB.

# Verify your hole sizes.
## Based on whatever needs to go in the hole, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
## Once you've selected the rivet size take the outer diameter of the rivet and add 0.1mm (per the table's instructions).
## Check this outer diameter against the drills in stock for the Voltera, this list is below. Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for your hole size in Altium.
# Verify annular ring size
## Your annular rings should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
# Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

[[File:Voltera-drillbits.png|frameless|left|300px]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# '''Drilling'''
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# '''Ready the Ink'''
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# '''Software Setup'''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Mounting the Probe'''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Positioning and Probing'''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# '''Priming the Conductor'''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Calibration'''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# '''Top Layer Print'''
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
# '''Cleaning up'''
## Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
## If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
|
|}

File:Voltera-drillbits.png

2022-01-27T19:00:30Z

Mmartin18: Set of drill bits used on the PCB Printer

== Summary ==
Set of drill bits used on the [[PCB Printer]]

PCB Printer

2022-01-27T18:58:38Z

Mmartin18: /* Terminology */ Updated link from sunstone to JLC

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|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Voltera Icon
|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288
|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
|Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://jlcpcb.com/ JLCPCB] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB.

# Verify your hole sizes.
## Based on whatever needs to go in the hole, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
## Once you've selected the rivet size take the outer diameter of the rivet and add 0.1mm (per the table's instructions).
## Check this outer diameter against the drills in stock for the Voltera, this list is below. Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for your hole size in Altium.
# Verify annular ring size
## Your annular rings should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
# Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# '''Drilling'''
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# '''Ready the Ink'''
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# '''Software Setup'''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Mounting the Probe'''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Positioning and Probing'''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# '''Priming the Conductor'''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Calibration'''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# '''Top Layer Print'''
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
# '''Cleaning up'''
## Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
## If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
|
|}

PCB Printer

2022-01-27T18:55:55Z

Mmartin18: /* General Procedure */ Modified instructions on cleaning sensors to reflect current best practice of not using isopropyl, instead cleaning with dry q-tip when paste is still wet.

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__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB.

# Verify your hole sizes.
## Based on whatever needs to go in the hole, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
## Once you've selected the rivet size take the outer diameter of the rivet and add 0.1mm (per the table's instructions).
## Check this outer diameter against the drills in stock for the Voltera, this list is below. Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for your hole size in Altium.
# Verify annular ring size
## Your annular rings should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
# Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# '''Drilling'''
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# '''Ready the Ink'''
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# '''Software Setup'''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Mounting the Probe'''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Positioning and Probing'''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# '''Priming the Conductor'''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Calibration'''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# '''Top Layer Print'''
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
# '''Cleaning up'''
## Clean any leftover paste or ink from the calibration switches by rubbing them with a dry cue tip before it dries.
## If any ink or paste remains elsewhere on the machine, use a cue tip or kimwipe with a little bit of isopropyl alcohol to clean it. Be careful not to drench the machine in isopropyl, as it could let gunk get into the machine and jam things up. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]

You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.

==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
|
|}

PCB Printer

2022-01-27T18:47:58Z

Mmartin18: Added "Before you print" section for final checks and best practices

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__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Before you Print==

Here are a few things to check before exporting your gerber files and fabricating your PCB.

# Verify your hole sizes.
## Based on whatever needs to go in the hole, select a rivet with the proper internal diameter from the table on the [[Through Hole Press]] page.
## Once you've selected the rivet size take the outer diameter of the rivet and add 0.1mm (per the table's instructions).
## Check this outer diameter against the drills in stock for the Voltera, this list is below. Round up to the nearest drill size and use that for your hole size in Altium.
# Verify annular ring size
## Your annular rings should be at least as large as the head diameter of the rivets you plan to use, otherwise they might not make good contact.
# Check that your design follows the circuit design guidelines at the link above

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# '''Drilling'''
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently. Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# '''Ready the Ink'''
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# '''Software Setup'''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# '''Cleaning the Sensors'''
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly.
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip.This will help clear out any crap that could hurt the sensor. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Mounting the Probe'''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Positioning and Probing'''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# '''Priming the Conductor'''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Calibration'''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# '''Top Layer Print'''
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
##You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.
# '''18658 [what is this?]'''
## The board consists of a button, a 680Ω resistor, and an LED. Attach a fixed 5VDC connection to the + and -, and the LED should illuminate.

==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
|
|}

High Speed Camera

2022-01-27T02:35:48Z

Mmartin18: /* Safety */ Changes to phrasing

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==Description==

The Cronos is a high speed camera that allows the recording of video with very high framerates, up to 1057FPS at 1280x1024, or 38,500FPS at decreased resolutions. At these high framerates, events that are too fast to be seen with the naked eye can be studied in detail. Video can be saved in RAW, CinemaDNG, or H.264 codecs.

Here is an example of this camera being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HBlYfezY2A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*FPS - Frames per second, also known as frame rate; a measure of how quickly the camera captures images. Standard frame rates are between 24 and 60FPS. The Cronos is capable of filming at up to 38,500FPS.
*Exposure - How long a frame of video is actually gathering light, given in seconds. This is called Shutter Speed on most consumer cameras.
*Analog Gain - Called ISO in consumer cameras, digitally controls the brightness of the image. More gain means a brighter image, but also more noise (manifests as grain, especially noticeable in dark areas of the image). For the best image quality, use a low gain and compensate by increasing the amount of light where you’re filming or open the aperture if the image is too dark.
*Aperture - Measures the diameter of the lens's iris, given in F-stops (F1.4, F2.8, F4, etc.). The lower the number, the larger the diameter of the iris (called a wider or more open aperture) and the more light that hits the sensor. A wider aperture also decreases the depth of field (how much is in focus at a time), making the background blurry. This is bad if you are trying to film a lot of things far away from each other, but good if you need lots of light and are only filming one thing.
*H.264 - A common video encoding standard used commonly in online video. Generally you want to pick this one.
*Focus Peaking - A feature that makes it easier to see what is in focus. Highlights edges that are in focus in a color (usually red).

[[File:Pasted image2.jpg|none|thumb|400x400px]]

*White Balance - Controls the color temperature of light the camera is filming, measured in degrees kelvin. (Seriously, color temperature was originally defined by the color of light a bar of lead glows with at a particular temperature) Incandescent lights are around 3200K, outdoor daylight is around 5900K, LED lighting is around 5600K. Generally just adjust this by eye. If the image appears too blue, increase the color temperature. If the image appears too orange, decrease the color temperature. If adjusted correctly, white objects in the image should appear, well… white.

[[File:Color Temp.jpg|none|thumb|400x400px]]

*Trigger - Tells the camera when to stop recording. High speed cameras are always recording, and only stop and save video when stopped.
*Ring buffer - The camera records frames in a “ring”, with each frame filling a new spot on the ring. When the ring is full, the next frame overwrites the first frame in the buffer. Each subsequent frame is also overwritten. This means you can start recording whenever you want, and the camera will only save the buffer when you press the trigger. By default, when you press the trigger it immediately stops recording. By going to the Trigger Delay menu, you can change it so the camera continues to record after you press the trigger (this does not work for the red record button).

[[File:Ring buffer.jpg|none|thumb|400x400px]]

User Manual
Chronos 1.4
[https://www.krontech.ca/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Chronos-1.4-2.1-HD-User-Manual-Full-version-Software-Version-0.5.1.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Chronos 1.4 captures and saves high frame rate video, also known as high-speed or slow-motion. This can be used to study things that are too fast to be seen by the unaided eye.

====Demonstration====

Before using the camera, students will perform a short in-person training session after passing the Canvas quiz. General procedures and expectations for equipment care will be reviewed. Students should be familiar with the operation of the camera and be ready to demonstrate this by setting up and capturing some video following the General procedure below.

====General Procedure====

This section is meant to provide a brief overview of operating the Chronos 1.4. For a more detailed explanation of the camera, its features, and options/menus please consult the user’s manual.

To capture high speed video with the Chronos

1. Attach the camera to a tripod and turn the camera on. Give it a minute to warm up (especially if it’s cold)

2. Set your desired frame rate in the Record Settings menu based on how fast the thing you’re trying to film is.

3. Set Aperture (dial on the lens) and Gain (Record Settings menu) so the image is properly exposed (not too bright, not too dark)

4. Set White Balance in the “Set White Balance” menu. Either make an educated guess, or hold up a white object in front of the camera and press “Set Custom White Balance”.

5. Perform a black calibration. Place the lens cap on the lens and press the Black Cal button in the main menu. Ideally the camera should run for 15-20 minutes before performing a Black Cal to let the sensor get up to temperature. NOTE: Doing a Black Cal will discard any unsaved footage

6. Change your trigger settings if using an external trigger or want to set up trigger delay

7. Press the red record button to start recording. Make sure your image is properly exposed and that your subject is in focus. Anything in focus will be highlighted in red with focus peaking. NOTE: Pressing record will discard any unsaved footage

8. Trigger the camera when ready, the camera will stop recording or continue to record for a short period of time depending on your trigger settings. The camera can be triggered by using the red record button or external trigger. Note that trigger delay settings will not apply to the red record button.

9. The footage in memory will be shown on the screen. You can press and hold the right arrow to play the footage forward. Play rate should usually be set to 30fps.

10. To reduce file size, set start and end markers before saving. Do this by scrolling the playback slider (goes from bottom to top) to the start of the part you want to keep and press “Mark Start”, then scroll to the end of the part you want to keep and click “Mark End”. The portion that will be saved is highlighted in red next to the playback slider. Then click Save. Once saved, the red will turn to green, indicating that it is safe to capture footage again.

11.Make sure to safely eject your storage media before removing it from the camera. This can be done by going to the Play menu and clicking Settings, then “Safely Remove”

12. When finished using the camera, press the power button to turn off the camera. Do not hold the power button for more than 4 seconds. This will cause a forced shutdown, which could corrupt the camera’s internal memory. Only perform a forced shutdown if the camera becomes completely unresponsive to touchscreen input.

13. Return the camera to its case, nicely coil trigger and power cables and place those in the case as well.

==Safety==
There is almost nothing you could do that would result in injury from using the high speed camera. However, things you might be filming (fast moving objects, explosions, etc.) could be dangerous. You must exercise common sense in what you decide to place in front of the camera. In most every situation, the camera is at greater risk of damage than you are. Always observe the following precautionary guidelines when using the camera.

*The camera should always be securely mounted or held so it is not at risk of falling/being knocked over
*If there’s risk of things flying and hitting the camera, it should be behind a shield
*Don’t set down or store the camera in an environment that could damage it. Examples include outdoors when raining, in direct sunlight, on rough surfaces, or in places where things could fall/knock against the camera
*Don’t put any stress on the lens, the mount is fragile
*If the lens is ever disconnected, the sensor cap must be immediately attached
*When not being used, the camera should be stored in its pelican case with latches secured. The case should '''always''' be latched when you step away to prevent the possibility of the camera falling out.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1302 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
This table is from the User's manual. Depending on the severity of the problem and solution required, contact the Ace for assistance.

{| class="wikitable"
!Symptom
!Possible Problem
!Solution
|-
| rowspan="3" |Camera won’t turn on
|No power||Insert battery or connect to mains power using power adapter.
|-
|Crash||Remove battery and AC adapter for 10 seconds, then reconnect and power on.
|-
|AC Adapter voltage wrong||Ensure that AC adapter is providing between 17 and 20V DC, positive tip.
|-
| rowspan="2" |Battery won't charge
|Battery inserted after AC connected||Unplug AC adapter from camera then replug.
|-
|AC Adapter voltage wrong||Ensure that AC adapter is providing between 17 and 20V DC, positive tip.
|-
|Battery indicator drops very fast||Low quality or failing battery||Replace battery.
|-
| rowspan="2" |Power status indicator flashes red/green continuously
|Power controller in recovery mode||Turn camera off, then remove the battery and disconnect AC adapter for 10 seconds. When reconnecting power or inserting battery, ensure power button is not pressed until after the LED flashing stops.
|-
|Power controller firmware corrupt||If the above does not fix the problem, contact Kron Technologies for assistance. A power controller recovery update may need to be applied.
|-
|Horizontal or vertical lines show up in video||Black cal not done after changing shutter speed (especially at resolutions below 1280 pixels horizontal)||Perform black cal after every shutter speed or resolution change.
|-
|Extremely blurry image, can't get close to proper focus. Except possibly when lens zoomed in||Incorrect lens adapter installed||Check if lens is CS or C mount to determine proper adapter to use.
|-
| rowspan="2" |Focus slightly wrong, proper focus out of range
|Backfocus misadjusted||Readjust backfocus, see Backfocus Adjustment section in User Manual.
|-
|Lens limitation||The Computar 12.5-75mm lens as well as some others are slightly soft at fully wide aperture. Close aperture slightly and retry. Try f/2 or smaller.
|-
| rowspan="2" |Lens doesn't maintain consistent focus while zooming
|Backfocus misadjusted||Readjust backfocus, see Backfocus Adjustment section in User Manual.
|-
|Lens is not parfocal||Some lenses, especially lower end lenses such as the 6-60mm and 2.8- 12mm lenses, do not maintain focus during zoom, Focus needs to be adjusted after zooming.
|-
|Black ring around image||Lens too small for sensor||Some lenses (such as the 6-60mm and 2.8-12mm lenses) don't cover the full image sensor. The black ring around the outside is called Vignetting. Change to a different lens to eliminate.
|-
|Negative ghost image visible over normal image||Black cal done without lens cap on or with aperture open||Perform black cal again by closing aperture fully, or covering lens.
|}

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Everyone who uses the camera should make sure the camera body and lens are clean when finished. The camera should be cleaned using a clean, lint-free or microfiber cloth optionally with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol on the cloth. Don’t use so much alcohol as to soak into the camera. The screen can be cleaned with a lint-free or microfiber cloth and a small amount of glass cleaner or isopropyl. Cleaners should not be sprayed directly on the camera, instead apply to the cloth.

The IR filter can be cleaned if it becomes very dirty. This should only be done by the ace or other qualified individual.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Cleaning Lens
|As needed
|Ace
|}

PCB Printer

2022-01-27T02:23:23Z

Mmartin18: /* Documentation */ Added link to circuit design guidelines

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__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://support.voltera.io/circuit-design-guidelines Circuit Design Guidelines]

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# '''Drilling'''
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently. Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# '''Ready the Ink'''
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# '''Software Setup'''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# '''Cleaning the Sensors'''
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly.
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip.This will help clear out any crap that could hurt the sensor. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Mounting the Probe'''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Positioning and Probing'''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# '''Priming the Conductor'''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Calibration'''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# '''Top Layer Print'''
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
##You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.
# '''18658 [what is this?]'''
## The board consists of a button, a 680Ω resistor, and an LED. Attach a fixed 5VDC connection to the + and -, and the LED should illuminate.

==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1288 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
|
|}

Rework Station

2021-10-06T20:07:33Z

Mmartin18: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */ Typo

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|Has icon=File:Solder Rework Station.png
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|Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png
|Has image=File:Rework Station.jpg
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|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297
|Has group=
|Has make=Zephyrtronics
|Has model=ZT-2, ZT-3, ZT-1-CLS-DPU, Hakko FR-301, Quick861DW
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
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[[File:Rework Station.jpg|thumb]]
[[File:Solder Rework Station.png|left|110x110px|frameless]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

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__TOC__

==Description==

The Rework Station is essential for fixing what you messed up during the fabrication process. Consisting of an Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, the Rework Station allows you heat up a specific area of the PCB and make modifications, whether that means adding/removing some solder on the pads, rotating a component, or completely replacing a component. Other tools are available for similar purposes, such as a desoldering gun, and an additional heat gun for larger components.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_yFDpSTfao}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:...airBath.jpg|Air Bath (ZT-1-CLS-DPU)
File:...airPencil.jpg|Air Pencil (ZT-2)
File:...airPick.jpg|Air Pick (ZT-3)
File:...desolderingGun.jpg|Desoldering Gun (Hakko FR-301)
File:...heatGun.jpg|Heat Gun (Quick861DW)
</gallery>

[http://www.zeph.com/smdpreheater.htm Zephyrtronics Airbath]

[http://www.zeph.com/pencil.html Zephyrtronics Airpencil]

[http://www.zeph.com/zt3web.htm Zephyrtronics Airpick]

[https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fr301.html Hakko FR-301]

[http://www.quick-global.com/2-lead-free-rework-2.html Quick-861DW]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Airbath can heat up to 205 °C, which can be enough to melt the solder on a PCB. Some solder melts at even higher temperatures than this, which can be achieved using the Air Pencil and/or Heat Gun. Essentially, the Air Bath heats up the board and the Air Pencil finishes the job by heating up the part of the board that we want to fix (because we don't want to melt the solder on the parts that are already good to go). This is where the Air Pick and tweezers come in. After heating up the part we want to fix, the tweezers are used to remove a component while the Air Pick uses a vacuum to place a component on the board. If the component is too small, using tweezers to pick up the component is also a good alternative.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Air Bath, Air Pencil, Air Pick, Desoldering Gun, and Heat Gun, the student will have a PCB prepared and perform tasks with the station as a whole. Using the Air Bath, Air Pencil, and Air Pick, students will remove a SMD and solder it back on. Using the Desoldering Gun, students will remove a soldered through hole component. Using the Heat Gun, students will mount a larger SMD, solder it on, and then remove it.

====General Procedure====

#Fixing/Replacing SMD Components
##Before turning on the Air Bath, clamp the PCB on the black stand, preferably placing it so that the component you want to fix is directly above the air. You should not be able to move the board once it is clamped. Keeping it sturdy helps from accidentally moving the PCB during the reworking process.
##The Air Bath has a power switch on the left, three buttons on the right, and a screen on the right. The switch has 3 positions which allows you to choose Cool, Off, and Warm by pressing it in their respective directions. The button on the right allow you to adjust the temperature in a rather funny way. The middle button has a down arrow while the right button has an up arrow, indicating which button decreases/increases the temperature of the bath. However, you need to hold down the left button while doing so. For instance, to increase the temperature, you would hold the left and right buttons at the same time.[[File:AirBathBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
##Now you will heat up the Air Bath. Hit the Power switch on the front, and set the temperature about 20-30 °C below the solder's melting point. The melting point for your solder can be found using the table below. Voltera's Solder Paste (Orange) melts at lower temperatures than the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste (Blue). If the Voltera Solder Paste says T4 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 180 °C. If the Voltera Solder Paste says T5 at the top, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. If you are using the Sn63Pb37 Solder Paste, heat the Air Bath to 150 °C. [[File:...meltingPointTable.png|none|thumb]]
##Once the board is heated, you can use the Air Pencil to heat up a specific component. The pencil blows hot air out the end. When you turn it on, adjust the settings to be 3/4 of the heat capacity and about 1/3 of the air flow. We do this because when the air flow is maximized at full temperature, it does not get hot enough to melt the solder. Too much air flow is bad.
##Hold the tip of the pencil over the SMD you want to solder/desolder, and move it slightly around the leads to allow for more distribution of heat. If it is not heating it up, try turning the heat of the pencil higher. This should allow for your SMD components solder to melt, and you will be able to pick up the component up with a pair of static-safe tweezers or the Air Pick. If you are soldering a part on, make sure to generously apply flux to the pads, and make sure all the solder sticks to the pads after heating.
##If the pencil is not doing a good enough job to heat up the component, then you may graduate to using the bigger heat gun, the Quick861DW. The same theoretical concepts apply, however, one potential downside of this is that it affects a larger area than the pencil. You may unintentionally melt the solder of components that you don't want to melt, so be extra careful my dudes.
##The Air Pick uses a vacuum to pick up and place components. Typically you would use both hands for this; one hand heats up the component with the pencil and the other grabs the component with the pick.
##On the handle of the pick there is a divot that is connected to the vacuum. When you plug the divot with your finger, it will enable it to pick up a component. When you release your finger from the divot, it will let go of the component. There are different tips that you will place on the end of the tip based on the component you want to pick up, each having a different size for varying components.
#Desoldering Through Hole Components
##For desoldering through hole components, you will want to use the Desoldering Gun. It has a hot tip that can fit over a solder joint and utilizes a vacuum when the trigger is pulled. As a result, it melts the solder and sucks it into a cartridge, completely removing the joint.
##Before using the Desoldering Gun, make sure you have the little metal stand for the gun to sit on for safety purposes. Have Solder ready nearby to tin the tip before use, and clean the tip after tinning using the wire mesh.
##On the handle of the gun there is a temperature control wheel that ranges from 1-4 (coolest to hottest). Be sure to set it to the correct temperature using the graphic below. Typically, a through hole component would require you to set the scale to 2.[[File:...SolderingGun.png|none|thumb]]
##To use the Desoldering Gun, briefly put the top over a solder joint (not completely on the PCB or you might damage it), press the trigger to enable the vacuum, and the solder should be sucked away!
##Tin the tip before cooldown, and take note that the cooldown may take a bit of time. Don't burn yourself!

==Safety==
The most important thing about all these machines: THEY GET REALLY HOT!

Be so so careful because these machines can get up to temperatures of potentially 700°F. Always be wary of where you are blowing the hot air with the air guns, so you don’t melt other things. Be wary of how hot your PCB can get, and always put the cooling setting on after you’re finished with the Air Bath before picking your PCB up, because you can burn yourself.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1297 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==

#Suppose the solder isn't melting. Consult the temperature table in the General Procedure, chances are that you just need to make it hotter, little by little.
#Suppose the Air Pick is not picking up the component. Use the appropriate tip and make sure you are plugging the little divot to enable it to pick up. If these aren't working, resort to using tweezers.
#Suppose the components are getting blown away from the pads you want it to sit on. Well, turn down the air my dude.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Wrap all cords and make them look tidy. Make sure all devices are turned off and returned to their original place. Do not leave tweezers or extra parts laying around, put them back in the accessories drawer.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after every use
|Student
|-
|Tinning tip of Desoldering Gun
|Before and after every use
|Student
|}

PCB Printer

2021-02-24T07:12:32Z

Mmartin18: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */ Added maintenance item

{{#set:
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|Has certification=https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31369
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__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# '''Drilling'''
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently. Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# '''Ready the Ink'''
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# '''Software Setup'''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# '''Cleaning the Sensors'''
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly.
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip.This will help clear out any crap that could hurt the sensor. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Mounting the Probe'''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Positioning and Probing'''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# '''Priming the Conductor'''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Calibration'''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# '''Top Layer Print'''
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
##You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.
# '''18658 [what is this?]'''
## The board consists of a button, a 680Ω resistor, and an LED. Attach a fixed 5VDC connection to the + and -, and the LED should illuminate.

==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31369 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|-
|Cleaning calibration switch linear hardware (Disassemble, clean, oil)
|Once yearly, or as required.
|Ace and Technician
|
|}

MIG Welder

2021-02-16T20:13:34Z

Mmartin18: /* Training */ Complete VR training first

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Welding Shop
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:mig_welder_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Add description
|Has iconwname=File:mig_welder_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Millermatic 210.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Millermatic 210
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31362
|Has make=Miller Electric
|Has model=Millermatic 210
|Has serial number=LC520348
|Has ace=Matthew Martin;mmartin18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Millermatic 210 is a wire feed metal inert gas (MIG) welder that is meant for light industrial use. Metal inert gas is a welding process in which an electric arc forms between a consumable MIG wire electrode and the base metal, which heats the base metal, causing them to melt and join. Along with the wire electrode, a shielding gas feeds through the welding gun, which shields the process from contaminants in the air. This is the easiest and most common type of welding which makes it perfect for those learning to weld. It uses 72/25 CO2 and Argon gas mixture to shield the molten weld from oxygen. If the weld pool is exposed to oxygen, it can create a handful of problems such as porosity and excessive spatter in the bead. This welder is capable of welding carbon steel as well as stainless steel. Below is a short video explaining MIG welding. Before completing the training on this machine you must complete the [[Virtual Reality Welding Station]] training and spend some time practicing with it to get a feel for the welding process. The purpose of this wiki is to explain the operation of the Millermatic 210. Basic welding technique should be learned on the VR Welder. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twUAa5LWUvk}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*MIG Welding - Metal inert gas is a welding process in which an electric arc forms between a consumable MIG wire electrode and the base metal, which heats the base metal, causing them to melt and join. Along with the wire electrode, a shielding gas feeds through the welding gun, which shields the process from contaminants in the air.
*Gun - The piece that is held while welding and feeds the weld metal into the base metal.
*Base Metal - The metal pieces that are being joined together.
*Filler Metal - The material added to the weld from the weld spool.
*Coupons - Small pieces of metal used to practice welding.
*Contact Tip - The metal tube connected to the gun that guides the wire and transfers the current to the filler metal.

'''[https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/o1325a_mil.pdf User Manual]'''

==Training==
'''''Note:''''' Before completing training for the MIG Welder, you must first be trained and practice on the [[Virtual Reality Welding Station]].

====Operation====

MIG welding may be the simplest welding method to learn, but that does not mean it is easy. First, it is important to wear the correct safety gear, i.e. closed shoes, pants, a welding coat, a welding helmet, and welding gloves, otherwise you will be burned by the UV light emitted by the welding arc (think of a really bad sunburn). You must also make sure the machine is set up properly. To do this, the gas cylinder valve should be opened all the way and the regulator adjusted to roughly 15 CFH. Depending on the material you are welding the voltage and wire feed speed will vary. You can find a settings chart located inside the cover of the welder. Secure your work pieces using clamps and magnets to hold them in position. Make sure to clamp the ground clamp to the work piece or the metal table near the welding position. If you clamp the ground to the table make sure the work piece has good contact with the table near the ground clamp. The most difficult piece is keeping the correct gun angle, keeping a consistent travel speed/pattern, and maintaining the correct distance from the work piece. If you have spent time on the welding simulator then the gun angle and travel speed/pattern should be simple to replicate. It is more difficult to visually reach the correct distance from the material but if the welder is making a nice sizzling (just like frying bacon) sound then it should be correct. If there is a lot of popping the the gun is too far away and if there is more of a bubbling sound then it is too close. When you have completed the welding process reset the space by putting away any scrap metal and putting everything back.

====Demonstration====

For the first part of the demonstration you will need to show how to setup the welder and perform safe operation. The second part of the demonstration will be performing a sample weld on a coupon. To start demonstrate how to weld several 1 inch weld lines a weld coupon and choose one of the following joints to weld: lap, butt, or Tee joint. These should be performed on the coupons found in the weld shop. See the image below to see the different types of welds.
[[File:Weld Types.png|none|thumb|748x748px]]

====General Procedure====
Prior to Welding:

#Place the fume hood over the area you will be welding and make sure it is on. The power switch is located on the wall next to the door and light switch.
#Attach the ground clamp to the metal bench your work piece will be on. Ideally, place the ground clamp on the base metal itself to create the smoothest path for the electrical current.
#Ensure the work piece is touching the conductive surface of the table. This is critical if the clamp is not touching the base metal.
#Ensure the adjusting screw on the tank regulator is loose (Do not unscrew all the way).
#Slowly open cylinder valve all the way. Suddenly opening the valve could cause damage to the regulator.
#Slowly turn the regulator screw (clockwise) to increase pressure to 25 CFH. At first it will spin freely but you will begin to feel resistance as the pressure begins to increase on the leftmost pressure gauge.
#Identify the material type and thickness that you will be welding.
#Determine the wire feed rate and voltage to fit your material and wire size. To do this, refer to MIG welding chart for specified adjustments specific to your application. A welding chart is included below for reference and the same chart is mounted inside the cover of the welder. This chart also depends on the wire size which is usually 0.035". [[File:Welder Chart.jpg|none|thumb|706x706px]]
#Turn on the welder and adjust wire speed and voltage to match the parameters layed out by the welding chart. Refer to the image below to see the controls for doing this. [[File:MIG Controls.png|none|thumb|837x837px]]
#Ensure you are wearing all necessary protective gear. This should include closed shoes, pants, a welding coat, a welding helmet, and welding gloves. There should be no skin exposed to the welding arc or it will cause burns.
#Ensure the welding gun has proper amount of wire protruding from tip (about ¼ inch) and that the gun nozzle is clean of any debris. You can use pliers to scrape off any debris in the nozzle. If too long, trim excess with the welding pliers. If to short, pull the trigger while the gun is not in contact with anything and more wire will be fed out.

Perform a Weld:

#Set up the work pieces in your desired configuration. Magnets and metal clamps are helpful for doing this and can be found on the tray below the tabletop.
#Tack the pieces together in a few places by holding the gun at the proper angle and holding down the trigger for 2-3 seconds. Before pulling the trigger make sure to say "welding" to let everyone in the room know you are about to start. If you do not know the correct angle to hold the gun go practice some more on the [[Virtual Reality Welding Station]] until you are comfortable with the gun.
#Perform as many welds as needed. If you are doing everything right the noise should sound like sizzling bacon. Also, you may need to periodically trim the wire between welds to keep the correct distance from the work piece.

After Welding

#Close gas cylinder valve.
#Bleed any remaining gas by depressing trigger until regulator drops to 0. Make sure the gun is not in contact with anything while doing this.
#Back out adjusting screw on regulator (Do Not unscrew all the way).
#Turn off the welder.
#Carefully coil the gun and return it to the welder. Make sure it does not get kinked.
#Remove the ground clamp and clean up any scraps and slag from the work area.

==Safety==

*Touching live electrical parts can cause fatal shocks or severe burns. The electrode and work circuit is electrically live whenever the output is on. The input power circuit and machine internal circuits are also live when power is on. In semiautomatic or automatic wire welding, the wire, wire reel, drive roll housing, and all metal parts touching the welding wire are electrically live.
*Don’t weld lead, zinc, copper, cadmium, or beryllium or any coated metals. Welding these materials can be harmful if not equipped with proper safety gear and training.
*Don’t weld in wet gear or standing water because this could create a new path for the electrical current to travel and cause a severe electrical shock.
*Always turn gas and the welder off when you are done in the welding shop to ensure there are no leaks that could cause asphyxiation (suffocating from lack of oxygen).
*Never weld without a welding helmet. Arc rays from the welding process produce intense visible and invisible (ultraviolet and infrared) rays that can burn eyes and skin. Be aware that sparks fly off from the weld.
*Never weld without gloves. Gloves protect your hands from the heat as well as the arc rays. No bare skin should be exposed.
*Don't weld with the vent hood off. Welding produces fumes and gases. Breathing these fumes and gases can be hazardous to your health. Asphyxiation can also occur due to the confined nature of the welding shop and the use of welding gasses.
*Always weld with the door open to lower the risk of asphyxiation.
*Don't weld with the gas off. This can damage the machine.
*Don’t unscrew the regulator adjusting screw all the way out.
*Please avoid touching the hot metal surrounding the weld, even if you are wearing welding gloves. You could get burned and the heat may damage the gloves.
*Avoid stepping on or kinking the cable attached to the gun. This can interfere with the wire feeding system and cause permanent damage.
*Never weld alone.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31362 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==

*Wire feeds from the gun but welding doesn't occur - Check that the ground clamp has solid contact with the work piece and that there is solid contact with the table if the clamp is on the table.
*The welding process is burning through the work piece - Double check the welding parameters chart to ensure the wire speed and voltage are correct.
*Trouble starting the weld at the correct distance - Trim the wire to around 1/4" so that the gun can be closer to the work piece.
*Inconsistent arc - Check that your workpiece is clean of thick mill scale. The contact tip may also need replacing, contact supervisor or tech.
*Wire feeding at an erratic rate - Contact the supervisor or tech if you experience this issue.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Welding environments are often dirty so the {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} holds up well to to dust by design and it is not critical to have it squeaky clean as a result. However, it is still recommended to wipe down the machine on occasion to prevent an excess of dirt buildup. It is important to clean slag buildup from the nozzle of the gun to increase its longevity and to inspect/repair the weld cable. To clean the nozzle, twist it off and then scrape away any slag with a pair of pliers. At this point you can apply a light coat of nozzle gel to the end of the nozzle to help prevent slag from sticking (this is found on the table to the left of the welder). Another routine maintenance procedure is the lubrication of the drive motor so that the wire feed system will keep functioning properly. For details on doing this refer to the user manual.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completed
|-
|Clean slag from the gun nozzle
|As needed
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Inspect/Repair cracked weld cables
|Every 3 months
|Ace
|
|-
|Clean and tighten weld terminals
|Every 3 months
|Ace
|
|-
|Blow out or vacuum inside of welder
|Every 6 months
|Ace
|
|-
|Remove drive roll and carrier and lubricate
|Every 6 months
|Ace
|
|-
|Replace contact tip
|As needed
|Ace
|
|}

Through Hole Press

2021-02-02T20:28:04Z

Mmartin18: /* General Procedure */ Added note about not using 0.4mm rivets.

[[File:...PressyBoi.png|thumb]]

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|Has icon=File: Through_hole_pressIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Through Hole Press Icon
|Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png
|Has image=File:through_hole_press_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Favorit Through Hole Press
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31713
|Has group=
|Has make=Bungard
|Has model=PL-FAVORIT
|Has serial number=2018-2231
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Through Hole Press is a hand-operated through hole plating machine using rivets. A rivet is a component used to easily connect traces that are transitioning between the top and bottom layers of a PCB. As a whole, it is known as a via. Specifically, it is a small hollow copper tube that can be inserted on one side of the board, then - using a specialized rivet tool like the Through Hole Press - the rivets are pressed and deformed to connect both sides. There are other methods that carry out the same function, but using rivets is the fastest and most consistent method. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywfjknf6Vtg}}{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nz1TcfEnw-o}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:Pcb-trace-geometry-2.png|Trace
File:...via.png|Via
File:...rivet.png|Rivet
File:...rubberMallet.png|Rubber Mallet
</gallery>

[https://www.bungard.de/index.php/en/products/through-hole-plating-line/through-hole-plating Product Home Page]

[https://www.bungard.de/images/downloads/favorit_manual_e.pdf Favorit Through Hole Press User Manual]

[[Media:Through hole press instructions and size chart.pdf|Instructions and Size Chart]]

==Training==
====Operation====

Rivets are used to connect traces on the top and bottom layers of a PCB. Traces are paths of conductive ink that connect components. Rivets can be pressed using either the Through Hole Press or a rubber mallet. Each method has its perks, so students will learn both methods.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the press, the student will press 2 rivets by using a rubber mallet and 2 rivets using the press. A test PCB with many holes of different sizes will be provided and reused among students.

====General Procedure====

#Hole Sizing
##Before pressing a rivet, you need to make sure you design the holes so that they fit well. For a rivet to fit nicely in a hole, the hole diameter needs to be 0.1 mm (3.9 mils) larger than the rivet outer diameter. Use the table below to see what types of rivets Voltera offers. Also, refer to the chart below to assure you have the right size rivet for the hole you are pressing it into.[[File:Through_hole_press_chart_snippet.PNG|none|thumb|500x500px]][[File:...rivetTable.png|none|thumb]]'''NOTE: Currently the tool for 0.4mm rivets is broken, so this size should not be used in designs. Use 0.6mm rivets instead.'''
##Additionally, these rivets are hollow, so these can also be used to secure headers on your PCB. When placing vias in your design program, ensure the right drill size is used so the PCB Printer leaves enough space when printing the ink.
#Using Through Hole Press
##Follow the instructions in the following video for setting up the correct tool set for your rivet.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWoPXiklzl0}}
##You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]
##The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the plate stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way.[[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]
##Before pressing the rivets, you need to make sure you have the right tool inserted into the upper and lower parts of the press. These tools can be found in the drawer in front of the press. The tool you choose should have the same inside diameter of the rivet you want to press.
##Now it is time to press the rivets. Place the board over the pin of the lower tool and fit a rivet over the pin as far as possible. To flatten the other side of the rivet, press the lever until it reaches the stop pin, then release. [[File:...rivetPress.png|none|thumb]]
##Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply. [[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]
#Using the Rubber Mallet
##Rivets can also be pressed using a rubber mallet! The setup for the through hole press apply here as well. This method is faster than the Through Hole Press, but it is not as consistent.
##You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]
##The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the unused PCB stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way. [[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]
##Using the rubber mallet and the rivet tool, you can press the rivet as shown in the picture below. Place the tip of the tool inside the rivet in an upright position, then hit the top of the tool with the mallet. The rivet tool can be found in the drawers in front of the PCB Printers.[[File:...rubberMalletPress.png|none|thumb]]
##Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply. Come stop by![[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]

==Safety==
There is not much that can hurt you while using the machine or the rubber mallet. Do not put any part of yourself under the through hole press, because it will try to punch a hole in you. The same idea goes with the mallet and the '''rivet''' tool. Do not swing it or do any dumb stuff. This should not have to be said, but people are dumb sometimes. Please do not be that person.

As for the through hole press and its tools, there any many things that could damage it. Especially tools for small rivet diameter (0.4 and 0.6 mm) are sensitive and require careful handling. The tip of the upper tool and springloaded pin of the bottom tool '''should be guarded against damage.''' Avoid any excessive pressure on both parts! For transport reasons the tip of the lower tool may be hidden inside of the tool body. If so, carefully turn in the headless screw, until the tip shows up again, but still can be pushed into the body again.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31713 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
If a rivet is not connecting the top and bottom layer traces, it is probably not pressed well, meaning it is not making good contact with the trace on both layers. A well placed rivet gives a good connection that is resistant to bending and twisting. In order to obtain a good long-term stability, we recommend that you apply our SUR-TIN immersion tin. This will help to prevent corrosion at the transition layer of the rivet and the copper clad (and will increase solderability). If you place component leads in the rivet holes and solder them from one side only, you should avoid thermal stress to the rivet. Certainly if solder passes the rivet it can cause the rivet to grow under the heat so that the rivet becomes loose. In such case, you should solder fix both rivet collars to the pads before inserting component leads.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

There is little to no maintenance to be done on this machine. Just be sure to reset the space, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and After each use, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used
|Student
|}

__TOC__

Tools

2021-02-01T06:54:16Z

Mmartin18: Replaced bad icon for combination wrench with image pending. Removed placeholder description and replaced with 'a' to make it stand out and be consistent with the rest of the page.

{{#ask:
[[Is tool::True]]
|?Has name=Tool Name
|?Has description=Description
|?Has imagedesc=Image
|mainlabel=-
|format=broadtable
|sort=Has name
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Screwdriver
|A screwdriver is used for installing and removing screws. There are philips head and flat head screw drivers. Don't underestimate the danger in using such a tool. Many hands have been punctured by a screwdriver that slips.
|[[File:SCREWdriverSD.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Combination Wrench
|a
|[[File:image_pending.png|center|100px]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|[[Adjustable Wrench]]
|This is a wrenching device
|[[File:image_pending.png|center|100px]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Hammer
|A hammer is a tool with a heavy "head" and a handle. The purpose is to supply an impact to a small area of an object. Some uses include driving nails into wood, shaping metal, or driving stakes. Hammers are also used to strike chisels and other tools like metal punches. A hammer can be very dangerous if it slips out of the users hand. Always wear safety glasses when using a hammer due to the risk of material flying into your eye.
|[[File:image_pending.png|center|100px]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Bubble Level
|A bubble level has many uses including, but not limited to verify plumb and level. Some of the many uses include picture and sign hanging, post installation, machine leveling.
|[[File:Bubble levelBubble level2.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Punch
|This is some sample text. This is also some sample text. I am a big fan of sample text. This is some sample text. This is also some sample text. I am a big fan of sample text. This is some sample text. This is also some sample text. I am a big fan of sample text.
|[[File:pick_place.jpg|center|100px]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|DC Power Supply
|A desktop device to provide DC power to a circuit at a specified voltage. Our BK Precision power supplies have three outputs: two output 0-24 V variable voltage with a max current of .5 A, and one outputs a fixed 5 V with a max current of 4 A. The electronics station in the center of the Maker Hub has several power supplies available for use. If all of these are in use, or if you would like to use a power supply elsewhere in the Hub, you can check one out from the Tool Room.
|[[File:DC Power SupplyDC PS.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Multimeter
|An instrument for conducting measurements on a circuit. They can measure DC voltage, AC RMS Voltage, current, resistance, and more. Multimeters are essential tools for testing or troubleshooting a circuit. The tool room has two kinds available for checkout: handheld and desktop. There are also several desktop multimeters available for use at the electronics station in the center of the Maker Hub.
|[[File:Multall of them01.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Oscilloscope
|An instrument for measuring and graphically displaying varying signal voltages. They can can plot a changing electrical signal over time, and then analyze it for properties including frequency, wavelength, and amplitude. Our oscilloscopes have four channels, meaning they can display four signals at once.
|[[File:OscilloscopeOS.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Function Generator
|A device which can produce a basic electrical signal. Our function generators can produce sine waves, square waves, and triangle waves at frequencies between 1 Hz and 10 MHz. They can also be configured to produce a "sweep signal" - a signal with a linearly varying frequency.
|[[File:FunctionGeneratorFG.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Soldering Iron
|A hand tool which heats metal solder in order to join two components. Soldering is most commonly used to join electrical components in a circuit. There are two soldering kits for use at the electronics station in the center of the Maker Hub, and there are also several available for checkout in the Tool Room. For your safety, please always place the soldering iron in its holder when not in use. Always use a fume extractor to protect yourself from harmful fumes. Soldering kits also come with a tackle box containing useful tools for soldering, such as wire crimpers. Please make sure all contents of this box are returned when you finish using a soldering kit.
|[[File:image_pending.png|center|100px]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Fume Extractor
|A device which uses a fan to collect and filter harmful fumes. Always use one of these when soldering for your protection.
|[[File:FUMEextractorFE.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Electronic Scale
|Device to measure weight or mass.
|[[File:R0101.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Laser Thermometers
|Handheld device that can display temperature readout on it after scanning portions of an object or area with the built-in laser. They tend to be inaccurate when measuring shiny objects, putting some non-reflective tape on the object can help give a better measurement.
|[[File:LASER THERMOMETERS.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Dremel
|Hand powered tool with different tips, that is mostly used for craft purposes, such as carving, etching and sanding small items.
|[[File:Dremel.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Cordless 1/2" Impact Wrench and sockets
|The impact wrench is specially designed for tightening and loosening various hex-head bolts, nuts, and lag screws. It employs both rotational force (torque) and short-burst concussive blows (impacts) to deliver an unparalleled amount of power.
|[[File:Impact.wrench and sockets.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Holesaw Kit
|A holesaw is used in a drill to cut perfectly round holes in a wide variety of materials
|[[File:Hole saw kit.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Heat Gun
|A power tool that emits a stream of hot air, usually at temperatures between 100 °C and 550 °C (200-1000 °F), with some hotter models running around 760 °C (1400 °F), which can be held by hand
|[[File:Heat gun.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Pressure Regulator
|This is for reducing the air pressure of a compressed air bottle.
|[[File:Press Regul.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Type K Thermometer
|A
|[[File:Type'k'Thermo.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Digital Tachometer
|This is an instrument that is used to measure revolutions per minute or RPM. This is a non contact device that uses light and a reflector. This device can be used to measure the RPM of a motor shaft.
|[[File:Digital Tachometer.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|A.C. Clampmeter
|This instrument can be clamped over a wire to measure the current flowing through it.
|[[File:Clampmeter.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Helium Balloom Inflator
|This is connected to a helium bottle and allows the user to fill a hellium balloon.
|[[File:Ballom inflator.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Bottle Jack
|This is a hydraulic jack and can be used for lifting heavy objects. Never put anything under heavy objects that you wouldn't want crushed.
|[[File:Bottle jack.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Battery Charger
|This is a battery charger for lead acid batteries.
|[[File:Battery charger.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|LED Worklight
|a
|[[File:Led working light.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Portable Vise
|a
|[[File:Vicegrip.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Mirror
|a
|[[File:Mirror.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Rivet Gun
|a
|[[File:Rivet gun.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Battery Terminal Cleaner
|a
|[[File:Battery Terminal Cleaner.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Tarp
|a
|[[File:RUG.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Robin Boards
|AVR training board used in ENGE320. Coupled with the Atmel 328P Xplained. Shield includes a 7-Segment display, some buttons, a switch, RGB LED's, and a piezo buzzer.
|[[File:Robin Boards.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|BTMN Board
|ARM training board used in ENGE320. Coupled with the Arduino Zero. Shield includes an AMOLED display, joystick, DPAD, RGB LED's, accelerometer, SD Card slot, and a piezo buzzer.
|[[File:Robin Boards large.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Basys 3 FPGA Board
|FPGA training board used in ENGE220. Has a bank of switches, buttons, LCD display, 7-Segment display, piezo buzzer, stepper motor driver, and more!
|[[File:Boards long.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Logic Analyzer
|Used to monitor and debug various digital signals and communication busses.
|[[File:Logic Analyzer.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Helping Hands
|An extra set of hands to hold things while soldering.
|[[File:Helping hands.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Analog Discovery 2
|a
|[[File:Analog Discovery 2.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Digilent Nexys 2
|a
|[[File:Digilent Nexys 2.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Digital Logic Probes
|a
|[[File:Digital Logic Probes.jpg|100px|center]]
}}

Tools

2021-02-01T06:52:29Z

Mmartin18: Added descriptions for batman, robin, helping hands, logic analyzer, and FPGA board. Modified description for laser thermometer to include comment about shiny objects.

{{#ask:
[[Is tool::True]]
|?Has name=Tool Name
|?Has description=Description
|?Has imagedesc=Image
|mainlabel=-
|format=broadtable
|sort=Has name
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Screwdriver
|A screwdriver is used for installing and removing screws. There are philips head and flat head screw drivers. Don't underestimate the danger in using such a tool. Many hands have been punctured by a screwdriver that slips.
|[[File:SCREWdriverSD.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Combination Wrench
|This is some sample text. This is also some sample text. I am a big fan of sample text. This is some sample text. This is also some sample text. I am a big fan of sample text. This is some sample text. This is also some sample text. I am a big fan of sample text.
|[[File:formech.jpg|center|100px]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|[[Adjustable Wrench]]
|This is a wrenching device
|[[File:image_pending.png|center|100px]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Hammer
|A hammer is a tool with a heavy "head" and a handle. The purpose is to supply an impact to a small area of an object. Some uses include driving nails into wood, shaping metal, or driving stakes. Hammers are also used to strike chisels and other tools like metal punches. A hammer can be very dangerous if it slips out of the users hand. Always wear safety glasses when using a hammer due to the risk of material flying into your eye.
|[[File:image_pending.png|center|100px]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Bubble Level
|A bubble level has many uses including, but not limited to verify plumb and level. Some of the many uses include picture and sign hanging, post installation, machine leveling.
|[[File:Bubble levelBubble level2.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Punch
|This is some sample text. This is also some sample text. I am a big fan of sample text. This is some sample text. This is also some sample text. I am a big fan of sample text. This is some sample text. This is also some sample text. I am a big fan of sample text.
|[[File:pick_place.jpg|center|100px]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|DC Power Supply
|A desktop device to provide DC power to a circuit at a specified voltage. Our BK Precision power supplies have three outputs: two output 0-24 V variable voltage with a max current of .5 A, and one outputs a fixed 5 V with a max current of 4 A. The electronics station in the center of the Maker Hub has several power supplies available for use. If all of these are in use, or if you would like to use a power supply elsewhere in the Hub, you can check one out from the Tool Room.
|[[File:DC Power SupplyDC PS.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Multimeter
|An instrument for conducting measurements on a circuit. They can measure DC voltage, AC RMS Voltage, current, resistance, and more. Multimeters are essential tools for testing or troubleshooting a circuit. The tool room has two kinds available for checkout: handheld and desktop. There are also several desktop multimeters available for use at the electronics station in the center of the Maker Hub.
|[[File:Multall of them01.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Oscilloscope
|An instrument for measuring and graphically displaying varying signal voltages. They can can plot a changing electrical signal over time, and then analyze it for properties including frequency, wavelength, and amplitude. Our oscilloscopes have four channels, meaning they can display four signals at once.
|[[File:OscilloscopeOS.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Function Generator
|A device which can produce a basic electrical signal. Our function generators can produce sine waves, square waves, and triangle waves at frequencies between 1 Hz and 10 MHz. They can also be configured to produce a "sweep signal" - a signal with a linearly varying frequency.
|[[File:FunctionGeneratorFG.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Soldering Iron
|A hand tool which heats metal solder in order to join two components. Soldering is most commonly used to join electrical components in a circuit. There are two soldering kits for use at the electronics station in the center of the Maker Hub, and there are also several available for checkout in the Tool Room. For your safety, please always place the soldering iron in its holder when not in use. Always use a fume extractor to protect yourself from harmful fumes. Soldering kits also come with a tackle box containing useful tools for soldering, such as wire crimpers. Please make sure all contents of this box are returned when you finish using a soldering kit.
|[[File:image_pending.png|center|100px]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Fume Extractor
|A device which uses a fan to collect and filter harmful fumes. Always use one of these when soldering for your protection.
|[[File:FUMEextractorFE.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Electronic Scale
|Device to measure weight or mass.
|[[File:R0101.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Laser Thermometers
|Handheld device that can display temperature readout on it after scanning portions of an object or area with the built-in laser. They tend to be inaccurate when measuring shiny objects, putting some non-reflective tape on the object can help give a better measurement.
|[[File:LASER THERMOMETERS.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Dremel
|Hand powered tool with different tips, that is mostly used for craft purposes, such as carving, etching and sanding small items.
|[[File:Dremel.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Cordless 1/2" Impact Wrench and sockets
|The impact wrench is specially designed for tightening and loosening various hex-head bolts, nuts, and lag screws. It employs both rotational force (torque) and short-burst concussive blows (impacts) to deliver an unparalleled amount of power.
|[[File:Impact.wrench and sockets.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Holesaw Kit
|A holesaw is used in a drill to cut perfectly round holes in a wide variety of materials
|[[File:Hole saw kit.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Heat Gun
|A power tool that emits a stream of hot air, usually at temperatures between 100 °C and 550 °C (200-1000 °F), with some hotter models running around 760 °C (1400 °F), which can be held by hand
|[[File:Heat gun.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Pressure Regulator
|This is for reducing the air pressure of a compressed air bottle.
|[[File:Press Regul.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Type K Thermometer
|A
|[[File:Type'k'Thermo.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Digital Tachometer
|This is an instrument that is used to measure revolutions per minute or RPM. This is a non contact device that uses light and a reflector. This device can be used to measure the RPM of a motor shaft.
|[[File:Digital Tachometer.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|A.C. Clampmeter
|This instrument can be clamped over a wire to measure the current flowing through it.
|[[File:Clampmeter.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Helium Balloom Inflator
|This is connected to a helium bottle and allows the user to fill a hellium balloon.
|[[File:Ballom inflator.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Bottle Jack
|This is a hydraulic jack and can be used for lifting heavy objects. Never put anything under heavy objects that you wouldn't want crushed.
|[[File:Bottle jack.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Battery Charger
|This is a battery charger for lead acid batteries.
|[[File:Battery charger.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|LED Worklight
|a
|[[File:Led working light.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Portable Vise
|a
|[[File:Vicegrip.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Mirror
|a
|[[File:Mirror.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Rivet Gun
|a
|[[File:Rivet gun.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Battery Terminal Cleaner
|a
|[[File:Battery Terminal Cleaner.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Tarp
|a
|[[File:RUG.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Robin Boards
|AVR training board used in ENGE320. Coupled with the Atmel 328P Xplained. Shield includes a 7-Segment display, some buttons, a switch, RGB LED's, and a piezo buzzer.
|[[File:Robin Boards.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|BTMN Board
|ARM training board used in ENGE320. Coupled with the Arduino Zero. Shield includes an AMOLED display, joystick, DPAD, RGB LED's, accelerometer, SD Card slot, and a piezo buzzer.
|[[File:Robin Boards large.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Basys 3 FPGA Board
|FPGA training board used in ENGE220. Has a bank of switches, buttons, LCD display, 7-Segment display, piezo buzzer, stepper motor driver, and more!
|[[File:Boards long.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Logic Analyzer
|Used to monitor and debug various digital signals and communication busses.
|[[File:Logic Analyzer.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Helping Hands
|An extra set of hands to hold things while soldering.
|[[File:Helping hands.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Analog Discovery 2
|a
|[[File:Analog Discovery 2.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Digilent Nexys 2
|a
|[[File:Digilent Nexys 2.jpg|100px|center]]
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Digital Logic Probes
|a
|[[File:Digital Logic Probes.jpg|100px|center]]
}}

PCB Printer

2021-02-01T06:28:43Z

Mmartin18: /* Specific Maintenance Tasks */ Added items for replacing ink/paste and re-labeling dispenser

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Voltera Icon
|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31369
|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
|Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120
|Has ace=Needed;Needed
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# '''Drilling'''
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently. Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# '''Ready the Ink'''
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# '''Software Setup'''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# '''Cleaning the Sensors'''
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly.
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip.This will help clear out any crap that could hurt the sensor. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Mounting the Probe'''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Positioning and Probing'''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# '''Priming the Conductor'''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Calibration'''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# '''Top Layer Print'''
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
##You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.
# '''18658 [what is this?]'''
## The board consists of a button, a 680Ω resistor, and an LED. Attach a fixed 5VDC connection to the + and -, and the LED should illuminate.

==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31369 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|-
|Replacing ink/solder paste syringe
|Whenever out of ink/solder paste
|Ace
|
|-
|Labeling dispenser with lot name
|Whenever ink/solder paste is replaced
|Ace
|
|}

PCB Printer

2021-02-01T06:24:31Z

Mmartin18: /* Terminology */ Removed copy-pasted section from reflow page. Removed lot names from ink descriptions as these change frequently. Added section describing lot names.

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|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31369
|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
|Has serial number=V1-05-0129-120 / V1-04-0183-120
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

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Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Inks are also identified by a lot name and expiration date. If properly installed, the expiration date should be viewable through the window in the dispenser, but the lot name will not. Refer to the label on the back of the dispenser for the lot name. When selecting the ink you're using in the Voltera software, it will identify the ink by type, lot name, and expiration date. Make sure you select the correct one.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink'''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste'''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37'''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# '''Drilling'''
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently. Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# '''Ready the Ink'''
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# '''Software Setup'''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# '''Cleaning the Sensors'''
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly.
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip.This will help clear out any crap that could hurt the sensor. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Mounting the Probe'''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Positioning and Probing'''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# '''Priming the Conductor'''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Calibration'''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# '''Top Layer Print'''
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
##You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.
# '''18658 [what is this?]'''
## The board consists of a button, a 680Ω resistor, and an LED. Attach a fixed 5VDC connection to the + and -, and the LED should illuminate.

==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31369 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|}

PCB Printer

2021-02-01T06:16:09Z

Mmartin18: /* Operation */ Cleaned up wording

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|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
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__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab. Each material requires a special heating program setting. See each individual material below for the proper reflow oven setting.

Select the respective ink/paste on the LCD Display. Different inks and pastes have different heat cycles, so it is important that you choose the right one. You can scroll through the options using the Up and Down keys. The Left key goes back, and the Right key selects. In this specific instance, V1 Ink is selected. Recall that each dispenser is assigned to a color. Green is V1 Ink, Orange is V1 Paste, and Blue is Sn63Pb37.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink:''' ''AqueousSnake''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates (Green is "V1 Ink" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste:''' ''FuriousAnt''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above. (Orange is "V1 Paste" setting on Reflow Oven)
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37:''' ''ArmoredArmadillo''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits] (Blue is "Sn63Pb37" on Reflow Oven)

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Training==
====Operation====

The PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, the Voltera will be able to print traces and pads. The Voltera has the ability to bake traces and reflow components on its heated bed, but you will need to use the reflow oven to bake boards. The PCB Lab uses the reflow oven for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, so users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# '''Drilling'''
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently. Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient. The transition between printing and drilling is done with the same alignment.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# '''Ready the Ink'''
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# '''Software Setup'''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# '''Cleaning the Sensors'''
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly.
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip.This will help clear out any crap that could hurt the sensor. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Mounting the Probe'''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Positioning and Probing'''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# '''Priming the Conductor'''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Calibration'''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# '''Top Layer Print'''
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
##You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.
# '''18658 [what is this?]'''
## The board consists of a button, a 680Ω resistor, and an LED. Attach a fixed 5VDC connection to the + and -, and the LED should illuminate.

==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31369 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|}

Pick and Place

2021-02-01T06:11:00Z

Mmartin18: /* General Procedure */ Added turntable operation step

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Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

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__TOC__

==Description==

Pick & Place (Protoplace S) is a semi-automatic pick & place system for the professional assembly of Surface Mount Technology (SMT) printed circuit board prototypes and small batch projects. It is capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives, but we typically use it just for placing minuscule components on PCBs.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maV2KG8O29A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
# Micro-Table
## This clamps PCBs as large as 297mm x 420mm (11.8” x 16.5”). Knobs at the front of the micro-table allow for fine adjustments along the X and Y axes, which are ideal for the placement of complex components.
# Manipulator
## The manipulator is what picks & places components. It is also capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives with the dispenser attachment, however, we will not use these features. The manipulator can reach everywhere on the micro-table that will be needed for projects, including the turntable. The manipulator uses the vacuum and appropriate needle attachment in order to pick & place components.
# Manipulator Knob
## The knob above the box on the manipulator rotates the nozzle; so it rotates components sucked on the knob.
# Turntable
## The turntable is what houses the components used in the project. The turntable can be controlled using the keyboard and LCD display.
# Micro Camera and Monitor
## The micro camera captures the end of the nozzle so that you can view (on the monitor) an accurate representation of where the component will be placed.
[[File:Pick And Place.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]

[https://www.lpkfusa.com/datasheets/prototyping/ProtoPlace%20S%20Specifications%20'16.pdf Pick and Place Datasheet]

[http://www.tabe.ru/pdf/lpkf_protoplace_manual_(eng).pdf Pick and Place Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Pick and Place organizes and helps place minuscule surface mount components by using a vacuum and a nozzle that is triggered by the amount of pressure applied to the nozzle (pushing down on a component).

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Pick and Place, the Student will have a PCB Prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Turn on the machine. The switch is located in the back left (if viewed from the front of the machine).
# Ensure that the correct vacuum tip is attached to the manipulator. If the tip is larger than the parts you are trying to pick up, then you need to change out the tip for something smaller. You can change tips for various sized components during the process.
## '''Do not use nozzles too large or the component will get sucked into the machine and the machine will get damaged.'''
# Place all of the parts needed for the project into their own sections on the turntable.
## It would be a good idea to have a separate section for each component for organization purposes (for yourself and others).
## Use a sticky note or labeling system of some sort for different components like resistor values.
## The turntable can be operated by selecting either Auto or Manual from the place menu, and then selecting Turntable. Press the left and right arrows to rotate clockwise and counter-clockwise.
# Turn on the monitor that will display the output of the micro camera. This will help you view your part while you are placing it on the pads.
# Clamp your board onto the microtable. You should not be able to move your board when it is secured.
# On the LCD, using the keyboard:
## Place -> auto/manual.
## Manual mode will only turn on the vacuum when sufficient pressure is applied to the nozzle (when you press the nozzle onto a component).
## Auto mode will always have the vacuum enabled.
# Let's assume we are in manual mode for the remainder of this procedure (easier because you can't accidentally pick up components). Move the manipulator to the desired component. Grab the component by pushing the nozzle down onto the surface of the component.
## '''Be sure that the component is not upside down!'''
# Move the manipulator and component to the position that the footprint is located (it doesn’t have to be exact yet). Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Brake option on the right of the LCD screen. This locks the manipulator so you cannot move it like you normally do which makes it easy to place your components.
# You can use the fine knobs on the front of the pick and place to make precise movements as well as the camera to assure you are placing it correctly on the pads.
## A higher resolution view can be seen on the monitor that’s output from the micro camera.
# Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Place option. It places the component straight down for you!
# Repeat this process until all components are placed.
# Upon completion, refer to the instructions on the Reflow Oven wiki. The solder has not been solidified yet, so be careful with your board so you do not move components. Remember to select the correct setting: V1 Paste if you are using Voltera's special Ink and Paste, and Sn63Pb37 for prefabricated PCBs.
# '''RESET THE SPACE!''' Remove any notes and clean up any lost components.

==Safety==
There is almost nothing you can do on this device that will hurt you. If you place your hand under the nozzle and then smash down the nozzle, you will hurt yourself. Do not do this for obvious reasons.

However, there are things that can hurt the Pick and Place.
# Be gentle with how you treat the nozzle; press down gently when picking and placing components.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31370 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# There are two monitors above the pick and place machine. You’ll want to have your Altium Schematic on one and the altium PCBDoc opened up so you can follow along as you’re placing and double checking things while you’re going.
# Don’t try to get the component exactly at the location of the pads without the brake. It’s quicker if you get it in the general area and use the fine adjustments knob after placing the brake.
# Pivot the micro camera to view alignments on both the x and y axes (again, the fine adjustment knobs are used here).
# If your tip is having a hard time keeping the component secure, try a bigger one.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The Pick and Place has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after use. Clean solder off of nozzle and clean table of loose components.
|Student
|-
|Nozzle Change
|Only when a component has been sucked up into the nozzle.
|Student and Ace
|}

High Speed Camera

2021-02-01T06:02:10Z

Mmartin18: /* Troubleshooting */

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|Has image=File:Chronos.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Chronos 1.4
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Chronos
|Has model=CH14-1.0-32C
|Has serial number=00902
|Has ace=Matthew Martin;mmartin18@georgefox.edu

}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
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Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

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Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Cronos is a high speed camera that allows the recording of video with very high framerates, up to 1057FPS at 1280x1024, or 38,500FPS at decreased resolutions. At these high framerates, events that are too fast to be seen with the naked eye can be studied in detail. Video can be saved in RAW, CinemaDNG, or H.264 codecs.

Here is an example of this camera being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HBlYfezY2A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

* FPS - Frames per second, also known as frame rate; a measure of how quickly the camera captures images. Standard frame rates are between 24 and 60FPS. The Cronos is capable of filming at up to 38,500FPS.
* Exposure - How long a frame of video is actually gathering light, given in seconds. This is called Shutter Speed on most consumer cameras.
* Analog Gain - Called ISO in consumer cameras, digitally controls the brightness of the image. More gain means a brighter image, but also more noise (manifests as grain, especially noticeable in dark areas of the image). For the best image quality, use a low gain and compensate by increasing the amount of light where you’re filming or open the aperture if the image is too dark.
* Aperture - Measures the diameter of the lens's iris, given in F-stops (F1.4, F2.8, F4, etc.). The lower the number, the larger the diameter of the iris (called a wider or more open aperture) and the more light that hits the sensor. A wider aperture also decreases the depth of field (how much is in focus at a time), making the background blurry. This is bad if you are trying to film a lot of things far away from each other, but good if you need lots of light and are only filming one thing.
* H.264 - A common video encoding standard used commonly in online video. Generally you want to pick this one.
* Focus Peaking - A feature that makes it easier to see what is in focus. Highlights edges that are in focus in a color (usually red).

[[File:Pasted image2.jpg|none|thumb|400x400px]]

* White Balance - Controls the color temperature of light the camera is filming, measured in degrees kelvin. (Seriously, color temperature was originally defined by the color of light a bar of lead glows with at a particular temperature) Incandescent lights are around 3200K, outdoor daylight is around 5900K, LED lighting is around 5600K. Generally just adjust this by eye. If the image appears too blue, increase the color temperature. If the image appears too orange, decrease the color temperature. If adjusted correctly, white objects in the image should appear, well… white.

[[File:Color Temp.jpg|none|thumb|400x400px]]

* Trigger - Tells the camera when to stop recording. High speed cameras are always recording, and only stop and save video when stopped.
* Ring buffer - The camera records frames in a “ring”, with each frame filling a new spot on the ring. When the ring is full, the next frame overwrites the first frame in the buffer. Each subsequent frame is also overwritten. This means you can start recording whenever you want, and the camera will only save the buffer when you press the trigger. By default, when you press the trigger it immediately stops recording. By going to the Trigger Delay menu, you can change it so the camera continues to record after you press the trigger (this does not work for the red record button).

[[File:Ring buffer.jpg|none|thumb|400x400px]]

User Manual
Chronos 1.4
[https://www.krontech.ca/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Chronos-1.4-2.1-HD-User-Manual-Full-version-Software-Version-0.5.1.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Chronos 1.4 captures and saves high frame rate video, also known as high-speed or slow-motion. This can be used to study things that are too fast to be seen by the unaided eye.

====Demonstration====

Before using the camera, students will perform a short in-person training session after passing the FOXTale quiz. General procedures and expectations for equipment care will be reviewed. Students should be familiar with the operation of the camera and be ready to demonstrate this by setting up and capturing some video following the General procedure below.

====General Procedure====

This section is meant to provide a brief overview of operating the Chronos 1.4. For a more detailed explanation of the camera, its features, and options/menus please consult the user’s manual.

To capture high speed video with the Chronos

1. Attach the camera to a tripod and turn the camera on. Give it a minute to warm up (especially if it’s cold)

2. Set your desired frame rate in the Record Settings menu based on how fast the thing you’re trying to film is.

3. Set Aperture (dial on the lens) and Gain (Record Settings menu) so the image is properly exposed (not too bright, not too dark)

4. Set White Balance in the “Set White Balance” menu. Either make an educated guess, or hold up a white object in front of the camera and press “Set Custom White Balance”.

5. Perform a black calibration. Place the lens cap on the lens and press the Black Cal button in the main menu. Ideally the camera should run for 15-20 minutes before performing a Black Cal to let the sensor get up to temperature. NOTE: Doing a Black Cal will discard any unsaved footage

6. Change your trigger settings if using an external trigger or want to set up trigger delay

7. Press the red record button to start recording. Make sure your image is properly exposed and that your subject is in focus. Anything in focus will be highlighted in red with focus peaking. NOTE: Pressing record will discard any unsaved footage

8. Trigger the camera when ready, the camera will stop recording or continue to record for a short period of time depending on your trigger settings. The camera can be triggered by using the red record button or external trigger. Note that trigger delay settings will not apply to the red record button.

9. The footage in memory will be shown on the screen. You can press and hold the right arrow to play the footage forward. Play rate should usually be set to 30fps.

10. To reduce file size, set start and end markers before saving. Do this by scrolling the playback slider (goes from bottom to top) to the start of the part you want to keep and press “Mark Start”, then scroll to the end of the part you want to keep and click “Mark End”. The portion that will be saved is highlighted in red next to the playback slider. Then click Save. Once saved, the red will turn to green, indicating that it is safe to capture footage again.

11.Make sure to safely eject your storage media before removing it from the camera. This can be done by going to the Play menu and clicking Settings, then “Safely Remove”

12. When finished using the camera, press the power button to turn off the camera. Do not hold the power button for more than 4 seconds. This will cause a forced shutdown, which could corrupt the camera’s internal memory. Only perform a forced shutdown if the camera becomes completely unresponsive to touchscreen input.

13. Return the camera to its case, nicely coil trigger and power cables and place those in the case as well.

==Safety==
There is almost nothing you could do that would result in injury from using the high speed camera. Obviously things you could be filming (e.g. explosions) could be dangerous, and you must use common sense in what you decide to place in front of the camera. In most every situation, the camera is at risk of damage more than you are. Always observe the following precautionary guidelines when using the camera.

*The camera should always be securely mounted or held so it is not at risk of falling/being knocked over
*If there’s risk of things flying and hitting the camera, it should be behind a shield
*Don’t set down or store the camera in an environment that could damage it. Examples include outdoors when raining, in direct sunlight, on rough surfaces, or in places where things could fall/knock against the camera
*Don’t put any stress on the lens, the mount is fragile
*If the lens is ever disconnected, the sensor cap must be immediately attached
*When not being used, the camera should be stored in its pelican case with latches secured. Latches should always be secured, even if you’re coming right back!

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31716 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
This table is from the User's manual. Depending on the severity of the problem and solution required, contact the Ace for assistance.

{| class="wikitable"
!Symptom
!Possible Problem
!Solution
|-
| rowspan="3" | Camera won’t turn on
| No power || Insert battery or connect to mains power using power adapter.
|-
| Crash || Remove battery and AC adapter for 10 seconds, then reconnect and power on.
|-
| AC Adapter voltage wrong || Ensure that AC adapter is providing between 17 and 20V DC, positive tip.
|-
| rowspan="2" | Battery won't charge
| Battery inserted after AC connected || Unplug AC adapter from camera then replug.
|-
| AC Adapter voltage wrong || Ensure that AC adapter is providing between 17 and 20V DC, positive tip.
|-
| Battery indicator drops very fast || Low quality or failing battery || Replace battery.
|-
| rowspan="2" | Power status indicator flashes red/green continuously
| Power controller in recovery mode || Turn camera off, then remove the battery and disconnect AC adapter for 10 seconds. When reconnecting power or inserting battery, ensure power button is not pressed until after the LED flashing stops.
|-
| Power controller firmware corrupt || If the above does not fix the problem, contact Kron Technologies for assistance. A power controller recovery update may need to be applied.
|-
| Horizontal or vertical lines show up in video || Black cal not done after changing shutter speed (especially at resolutions below 1280 pixels horizontal) || Perform black cal after every shutter speed or resolution change.
|-
| Extremely blurry image, can't get close to proper focus. Except possibly when lens zoomed in || Incorrect lens adapter installed || Check if lens is CS or C mount to determine proper adapter to use.
|-
| rowspan="2" | Focus slightly wrong, proper focus out of range
| Backfocus misadjusted || Readjust backfocus, see Backfocus Adjustment section in User Manual.
|-
| Lens limitation || The Computar 12.5-75mm lens as well as some others are slightly soft at fully wide aperture. Close aperture slightly and retry. Try f/2 or smaller.
|-
| rowspan="2" | Lens doesn't maintain consistent focus while zooming
| Backfocus misadjusted || Readjust backfocus, see Backfocus Adjustment section in User Manual.
|-
| Lens is not parfocal || Some lenses, especially lower end lenses such as the 6-60mm and 2.8- 12mm lenses, do not maintain focus during zoom, Focus needs to be adjusted after zooming.
|-
| Black ring around image || Lens too small for sensor || Some lenses (such as the 6-60mm and 2.8-12mm lenses) don't cover the full image sensor. The black ring around the outside is called Vignetting. Change to a different lens to eliminate.
|-
| Negative ghost image visible over normal image || Black cal done without lens cap on or with aperture open || Perform black cal again by closing aperture fully, or covering lens.
|}

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Everyone who uses the camera should make sure the camera body and lens are clean when finished. The camera should be cleaned using a clean, lint-free or microfiber cloth optionally with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol on the cloth. Don’t use so much alcohol as to soak into the camera. The screen can be cleaned with a lint-free or microfiber cloth and a small amount of glass cleaner or isopropyl. Cleaners should not be sprayed directly on the camera, instead apply to the cloth.

The IR filter can be cleaned if it becomes very dirty. This should only be done by the ace or other qualified individual.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Cleaning Lens
|As needed
|Ace
|}

The Vault

2021-02-01T05:40:59Z

Mmartin18: /* Equipment by Icon */ Modified to show icons for Vault, not welding shop.

The Vault is a 600 square foot space. It contains various equipment and stations shown in the Equipment Overview section below. [[File:The Vault.jpg|300px|thumb|The Vault]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
{{#set:
|Is facility=True
|Has ace=Shane Case; scase16@georgefox.edu
|Has certification=https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31715
}}

__TOC__

=Schedule=
You will need to take the Vault quiz to gain general card access. The access hours are M-F 9am-6pm via the west card reader. There are 3 doors located in the Vault area. The door leading to the Machine Shop should only be used during open shop hours and you need to have passed the Machine Shop quiz. Only shop supervisors should be using the Machine Shop door to gain access to the Vault/Tool Room. The door leading into the Prototype Lab is only for Prototype Lab supervisors or staff.

=Equipment Overview =
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==Equipment by Icon==
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==[[3 commandments]]==

=== 1. Safety First ===
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. This rule applies to both the safety of you as well as others

Keeping yourself safe in the Vault is very important, as there are possibilities for accidents if you don't follow the safety guidelines. Safety starts with you so don't depend on others to keep you safe. There is a first aid kit located on the south wall near the Wood Shop door. The following rules must be followed at all times.

See the following safety rules for the Vault:

* Safety glasses must be worn when working at the jewelry station and vacuum former.

* If using the propane torch at the Jewelry Station you need to keep it at the station and away from flammable materials.

* No horseplay in the Vault.

* No open toed shoes.

* Food or drink is allowed when not operating machinery as long as it is kept a safe distance away from the machines.

* Do not attempt to operate machinery in the Vault that you have not been certified on by GFU engineering personnel.

* Do not argue with volunteers or shop staff. Contact Justin Johnson if you have issues that need to be resolved.

* Reset the space. Make the area you are working in ready for the next person using the dust broom and vacuum cleaner.

* The first aid kit is located in the machine shop, next to the wood shop doors. There is a second kit located on the east Maker Hub Wall near the Tool Room.

* If you see a safety violation inform the person immediately and encourage them to comply with the policies

* Don’t do anything that would require an additional rule to be added to this list.

=== 2. Reset the Space ===
The Vault has a specific organization to it. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Throw away your trash and recycling.

Please put back the Machinery the way you found it. Clean up any messes you make. NEVER use shop air to clean off yourself or the machines.

If you remove any stock from the Vault inventory make sure to fill out the removal sheet hanging next to the cage door.

Always leave the space better than you found it.

=== 3. Be Professional ===
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Welding Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.

Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been welding for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.

If you are learning to how to use a machine, and you can't get something to work the way you want - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.

One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone.

If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Machine Shop, you are welcome to bring the issue to Justin or Nick's attention.

==General Vault Knowledge==
There is a variety of equipment located in the Vault (including [[Gary's Favorite Robot Arm|Gary's Favorite Robot Arm]]) as well as a good supply of electronic components and fasteners for projects. If you need to take any of these items for a project make sure you document the removal by filling out the inventory removal form. You will find the form hanging on a clip board located next to the Tool Room door.
The printer materials and acrylic located in the room should only be removed by Machine Shop and Prototype Lab staff. There are also items hanging on the cage wall. These items should only be removed when checked out.

<!-->
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== Foxtale Certification ==
Before working with any of the equipment in the Vault you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31715 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.

MIG Welder

2021-02-01T05:19:13Z

Mmartin18: /* Troubleshooting */ Added point for inconsistent arc

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|Has imagedesc=The Millermatic 210
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31362
|Has make=Miller Electric
|Has model=Millermatic 210
|Has serial number=LC520348
|Has ace=Matthew Martin;mmartin18@georgefox.edu
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__TOC__

==Description==

The Millermatic 210 is a wire feed metal inert gas (MIG) welder that is meant for light industrial use. Metal inert gas is a welding process in which an electric arc forms between a consumable MIG wire electrode and the base metal, which heats the base metal, causing them to melt and join. Along with the wire electrode, a shielding gas feeds through the welding gun, which shields the process from contaminants in the air. This is the easiest and most common type of welding which makes it perfect for those learning to weld. It uses 72/25 CO2 and Argon gas mixture to shield the molten weld from oxygen. If the weld pool is exposed to oxygen, it can create a handful of problems such as porosity and excessive spatter in the bead. This welder is capable of welding carbon steel as well as stainless steel. Below is a short video explaining MIG welding. Before completing the training on this machine you must complete the [[Virtual Reality Welding Station]] training and spend some time practicing with it to get a feel for the welding process. The purpose of this wiki is to explain the operation of the Millermatic 210. Basic welding technique should be learned on the VR Welder. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twUAa5LWUvk}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* MIG Welding - Metal inert gas is a welding process in which an electric arc forms between a consumable MIG wire electrode and the base metal, which heats the base metal, causing them to melt and join. Along with the wire electrode, a shielding gas feeds through the welding gun, which shields the process from contaminants in the air.
* Gun - The piece that is held while welding and feeds the weld metal into the base metal.
* Base Metal - The metal pieces that are being joined together.
* Filler Metal - The material added to the weld from the weld spool.
* Coupons - Small pieces of metal used to practice welding.
* Contact Tip - The metal tube connected to the gun that guides the wire and transfers the current to the filler metal.
'''[https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/o1325a_mil.pdf User Manual]'''

==Training==
====Operation====

MIG welding may be the simplest welding method to learn, but that does not mean it is easy. First, it is important to wear the correct safety gear, i.e. closed shoes, pants, a welding coat, a welding helmet, and welding gloves, otherwise you will be burned by the UV light emitted by the welding arc (think of a really bad sunburn). You must also make sure the machine is set up properly. To do this, the gas cylinder valve should be opened all the way and the regulator adjusted to roughly 15 CFH. Depending on the material you are welding the voltage and wire feed speed will vary. You can find a settings chart located inside the cover of the welder. Secure your work pieces using clamps and magnets to hold them in position. Make sure to clamp the ground clamp to the work piece or the metal table near the welding position. If you clamp the ground to the table make sure the work piece has good contact with the table near the ground clamp. The most difficult piece is keeping the correct gun angle, keeping a consistent travel speed/pattern, and maintaining the correct distance from the work piece. If you have spent time on the welding simulator then the gun angle and travel speed/pattern should be simple to replicate. It is more difficult to visually reach the correct distance from the material but if the welder is making a nice sizzling (just like frying bacon) sound then it should be correct. If there is a lot of popping the the gun is too far away and if there is more of a bubbling sound then it is too close. When you have completed the welding process reset the space by putting away any scrap metal and putting everything back.

====Demonstration====

For the first part of the demonstration you will need to show how to setup the welder and perform safe operation. The second part of the demonstration will be performing a sample weld on a coupon. To start demonstrate how to weld several 1 inch weld lines a weld coupon and choose one of the following joints to weld: lap, butt, or Tee joint. These should be performed on the coupons found in the weld shop. See the image below to see the different types of welds.
[[File:Weld Types.png|none|thumb|748x748px]]

====General Procedure====
Prior to Welding:
# Place the fume hood over the area you will be welding and make sure it is on. The power switch is located on the wall next to the door and light switch.
# Attach the ground clamp to the metal bench your work piece will be on. Ideally, place the ground clamp on the base metal itself to create the smoothest path for the electrical current.
# Ensure the work piece is touching the conductive surface of the table. This is critical if the clamp is not touching the base metal.
# Ensure the adjusting screw on the tank regulator is loose (Do not unscrew all the way).
# Slowly open cylinder valve all the way. Suddenly opening the valve could cause damage to the regulator.
# Slowly turn the regulator screw (clockwise) to increase pressure to 25 CFH. At first it will spin freely but you will begin to feel resistance as the pressure begins to increase on the leftmost pressure gauge.
# Identify the material type and thickness that you will be welding.
# Determine the wire feed rate and voltage to fit your material and wire size. To do this, refer to MIG welding chart for specified adjustments specific to your application. A welding chart is included below for reference and the same chart is mounted inside the cover of the welder. This chart also depends on the wire size which is usually 0.035". [[File:Welder Chart.jpg|none|thumb|706x706px]]
# Turn on the welder and adjust wire speed and voltage to match the parameters layed out by the welding chart. Refer to the image below to see the controls for doing this. [[File:MIG Controls.png|none|thumb|837x837px]]
# Ensure you are wearing all necessary protective gear. This should include closed shoes, pants, a welding coat, a welding helmet, and welding gloves. There should be no skin exposed to the welding arc or it will cause burns.
# Ensure the welding gun has proper amount of wire protruding from tip (about ¼ inch) and that the gun nozzle is clean of any debris. You can use pliers to scrape off any debris in the nozzle. If too long, trim excess with the welding pliers. If to short, pull the trigger while the gun is not in contact with anything and more wire will be fed out.
Perform a Weld:
# Set up the work pieces in your desired configuration. Magnets and metal clamps are helpful for doing this and can be found on the tray below the tabletop.
# Tack the pieces together in a few places by holding the gun at the proper angle and holding down the trigger for 2-3 seconds. Before pulling the trigger make sure to say "welding" to let everyone in the room know you are about to start. If you do not know the correct angle to hold the gun go practice some more on the [[Virtual Reality Welding Station]] until you are comfortable with the gun.
# Perform as many welds as needed. If you are doing everything right the noise should sound like sizzling bacon. Also, you may need to periodically trim the wire between welds to keep the correct distance from the work piece.
After Welding
# Close gas cylinder valve.
# Bleed any remaining gas by depressing trigger until regulator drops to 0. Make sure the gun is not in contact with anything while doing this.
# Back out adjusting screw on regulator (Do Not unscrew all the way).
# Turn off the welder.
# Carefully coil the gun and return it to the welder. Make sure it does not get kinked.
# Remove the ground clamp and clean up any scraps and slag from the work area.

==Safety==
* Touching live electrical parts can cause fatal shocks or severe burns. The electrode and work circuit is electrically live whenever the output is on. The input power circuit and machine internal circuits are also live when power is on. In semiautomatic or automatic wire welding, the wire, wire reel, drive roll housing, and all metal parts touching the welding wire are electrically live.
* Don’t weld lead, zinc, copper, cadmium, or beryllium or any coated metals. Welding these materials can be harmful if not equipped with proper safety gear and training.
* Don’t weld in wet gear or standing water because this could create a new path for the electrical current to travel and cause a severe electrical shock.
* Always turn gas and the welder off when you are done in the welding shop to ensure there are no leaks that could cause asphyxiation (suffocating from lack of oxygen).
* Never weld without a welding helmet. Arc rays from the welding process produce intense visible and invisible (ultraviolet and infrared) rays that can burn eyes and skin. Be aware that sparks fly off from the weld.
* Never weld without gloves. Gloves protect your hands from the heat as well as the arc rays. No bare skin should be exposed.
* Don't weld with the vent hood off. Welding produces fumes and gases. Breathing these fumes and gases can be hazardous to your health. Asphyxiation can also occur due to the confined nature of the welding shop and the use of welding gasses.
* Always weld with the door open to lower the risk of asphyxiation.
* Don't weld with the gas off. This can damage the machine.
* Don’t unscrew the regulator adjusting screw all the way out.
* Please avoid touching the hot metal surrounding the weld, even if you are wearing welding gloves. You could get burned and the heat may damage the gloves.
* Avoid stepping on or kinking the cable attached to the gun. This can interfere with the wire feeding system and cause permanent damage.
* Never weld alone.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31362 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
* Wire feeds from the gun but welding doesn't occur - Check that the ground clamp has solid contact with the work piece and that there is solid contact with the table if the clamp is on the table.
* The welding process is burning through the work piece - Double check the welding parameters chart to ensure the wire speed and voltage are correct.
* Trouble starting the weld at the correct distance - Trim the wire to around 1/4" so that the gun can be closer to the work piece.
* Inconsistent arc - Check that your workpiece is clean of thick mill scale. The contact tip may also need replacing, contact supervisor or tech.
* Wire feeding at an erratic rate - Contact the supervisor or tech if you experience this issue.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Welding environments are often dirty so the {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} holds up well to to dust by design and it is not critical to have it squeaky clean as a result. However, it is still recommended to wipe down the machine on occasion to prevent an excess of dirt buildup. It is important to clean slag buildup from the nozzle of the gun to increase its longevity and to inspect/repair the weld cable. To clean the nozzle, twist it off and then scrape away any slag with a pair of pliers. At this point you can apply a light coat of nozzle gel to the end of the nozzle to help prevent slag from sticking (this is found on the table to the left of the welder). Another routine maintenance procedure is the lubrication of the drive motor so that the wire feed system will keep functioning properly. For details on doing this refer to the user manual.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completed
|-
|Clean slag from the gun nozzle
|As needed
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Inspect/Repair cracked weld cables
|Every 3 months
|Ace
|
|-
|Clean and tighten weld terminals
|Every 3 months
|Ace
|
|-
|Blow out or vacuum inside of welder
|Every 6 months
|Ace
|
|-
|Remove drive roll and carrier and lubricate
|Every 6 months
|Ace
|
|-
|Replace contact tip
|As needed
|Ace
|
|}