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	<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Kaylam20</id>
	<title>makerhub - User contributions [en]</title>
	<link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Kaylam20"/>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/wiki/Special:Contributions/Kaylam20"/>
	<updated>2026-04-13T04:11:50Z</updated>
	<subtitle>User contributions</subtitle>
	<generator>MediaWiki 1.35.7</generator>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Hand_Bender&amp;diff=10309</id>
		<title>Hand Bender</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Hand_Bender&amp;diff=10309"/>
		<updated>2022-08-22T15:41:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Di-Acro&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Model 2 Bender (02HB)&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=111812&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Hand Bender&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1290&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has url=https://www.diacro.com/product/model-2-bender/&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Hand_benderIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Hand Bender icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Hand_Bender.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Di-Acro Hand Bender&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Di-Acro Hand Bender&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!&lt;br /&gt;
*Keep all hands and fingers out of any pinch points.&lt;br /&gt;
*Be aware of your surroundings before swinging the bending handle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A hand bender is a machine used to bend wire, bar stock, and tubing using mechanical advantage.  You can quickly bend hooks and other designs after setting up the machine with the correct tooling. It uses a variety of dies for different types of bends and radii.The bender is firmly mounted to the table in the Machine Shop.  &amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;  &lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of bending a piece of rod:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7hRMkp4TUA}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of bending a piece flat bar:&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2W9Mm2B7JM}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
See the diagram on page 4 of the [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/0/04/Di-Acro_Hand_Bender.pdf User Manual] for complete terminology and visual reference.&lt;br /&gt;
* Radius pin - The dye that the stock is formed around. Sized by radius. &lt;br /&gt;
** The following sizes are available in the maker-hub: 1/8&amp;quot;, 3/16&amp;quot;, 1/2&amp;quot;, 11/16&amp;quot;, 1&amp;quot;, 1 3/4&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
* Locking pin - A cam pin used to lock the material against the radius pin. Depending on the application, using a holding pin instead of a locking pin may be easier.&lt;br /&gt;
* Holding pin - A pin used to brace the material against the radius pin. A holding pin may be used when there is enough material behind the desired bend to brace against the holding pin.&lt;br /&gt;
* Handle - The thing you grab to gain mechanical advantage and exert force on the material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Forming nose - The contact point between the handle and the material. &lt;br /&gt;
* Trigger - The lever- esc thing on top of the handle responsible for bracing the forming nose against bending in a particular direction. The trigger should always point in the direction that the handle is being pulled. &lt;br /&gt;
* Adjusting Bolt - NOT a technical term, used instead of &amp;quot;SCREW-HHCS 1/2-20X2&amp;quot;. For the purposes of explaining how to use the hand bender, the adjusting bolt refers to the bolt that you loosen to adjust the distance between the forming nose is to the radius pin. See #27 on the figure on page 4 of the [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/0/04/Di-Acro_Hand_Bender.pdf User Manual] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Di-Acro Hand Bender.pdf|Hand Bender User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.diacro.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Art-Of-Bending_2013.pdf Art of Bending]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHKbXlK4W6A Simple Bend]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2W9Mm2B7JM Flat Bend]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Read/skim the &amp;quot;'''Art of Bending'''&amp;quot; document to find out how to set up the equipment. Then Watch the &amp;quot;Simple Bend&amp;quot; video to see how the equipment functions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To demonstrate competency on the hand bender you will be required to make a s hook. A Training Venture (TV) that uses the hand bender is the [[Triangle]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:S Hook.jpg|thumb|291x291px|&lt;br /&gt;
S Hook&lt;br /&gt;
]]&lt;br /&gt;
1) Read and understand the terminology section of the wiki.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2) Gather all necessary supplies: 0.25&amp;quot; round mild steel stock, ruler, sharpie, hacksaw, 1/2&amp;quot; R radius pin, locking pin, 3/4&amp;quot; wrench.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3) Cut a piece of 0.25&amp;quot; round mild steel stock 6&amp;quot; long using a hacksaw. (A hacksaw should be used instead of the horizontal band-saw because the diameter of the material being cut is small enough that only one-two teeth on the band-saw blade will contact the material at a given time. The likelihood of damaging the saw blade or having the stock become caught in the blade increases anytime less than three teeth are in contact with the cut stock.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4) Using a ruler and sharpie, mark the middle point and make a mark 1/8&amp;quot; from each end respectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5) Insert the 1/2&amp;quot; R radius pin into the center hole and place the locking pin in the 2nd closest hole.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6) Insert the 6&amp;quot; rod between the radius and locking pins. Tighten the cam such that the 1/8&amp;quot; mark is tangent to the radius pin. It is a tight fit so rocking the locking pin back and forth may be necessary to adjust properly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7) As needed, use the 3/4&amp;quot; wrench adjust the adjusting bolt such that the locking pin does not interfere with the path of the forming nose. The middle position should work.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8) Ensure that the trigger is pointed in the correct direction (the direction you will pull the handle).  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9) Bend the rod until the center mark on the rod barely touches the radius pin. The rod will spring back so a slight over-bend is necessary. You should have a p shape with a gap. *   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10) Repeat step 5 for the opposite end with the p shape facing the forming nose.    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11) Bend the rod until the center mark on the rod barely touches the radius pin. *   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
12) Since the forming nose is applying a force to the nice p you had, it will be slightly deformed. To Fix this, simply put the deformed side around the radius pin and re-bend it until you are satisfied with the shape.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
13) Reset the space.            &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;nowiki&amp;gt;*&amp;lt;/nowiki&amp;gt;   If the rod slips loose during the bending process tighten the locking pin and adjust the location slightly. If the issue persists try clamping the center of the rod between the radius and locking pins and bending about this point.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1290 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
This is a very basic piece of equipment so very little trouble shooting should be required.  See the &amp;quot;Art of Bending&amp;quot; document for machine setup.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Tech will lubricate zerk fitting as needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Grease rotation Zerk&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Buffers&amp;diff=10308</id>
		<title>Buffers</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Buffers&amp;diff=10308"/>
		<updated>2022-08-22T15:13:04Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:BuffersIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Buffer.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Baldor 332B Buffer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1286&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Baldor&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=332B&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=X1810057501 / X1810057506&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!&lt;br /&gt;
*The buffing wheels can catch the material you are polishing and rip it out of your hands. &lt;br /&gt;
*Be aware of the direction of the spinning wheels.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Never hold a part so the edge can catch the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
*Never wear gloves while buffing.  If a part gets warm take a break and let it cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Baldor buffers are built rugged for demanding work loads. 1,800 RPM buffers offer the ultimate in buffer flexibility. Excellent for polishing and buffing metal, aluminum, brass and copper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is video about polishing. This guy is wearing gloves while polishing but you should '''never''' wear gloves around rotating equipment. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SidCppOfJY Video Demonstration}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Buffing Wheel Rake -Metal teeth mounted to a wooden handle used for cleaning the buffing wheels.&lt;br /&gt;
*Rouge -A polishing compound that normally comes in bars.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Baldor.pdf|Buffer User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a cloth wheel located on both sides of the buffer motor.  When you rub the polishing rouge against the cloth wheels some of the material embeds and sticks in the cloth. As you press material up against the wheel small amounts of material get removed and begin to polish the metal surface. You will need to apply more rouge as the material is used up.  The wheels spins at 1800 RPM so remember to always work on the lower portion of the wheel and never hold any parts so the edges can catch on the wheel. Never wear gloves while using rotating equipment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You will need to demonstration how to setup the buffer and safely polish a piece of scrap aluminum.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Select a scrap piece of aluminum or a part to polish.&lt;br /&gt;
# Debur the part so no sharp edges are present.&lt;br /&gt;
# select the proper rouge for the material you are polishing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Put on a face shield to protect your face.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn on the power switch for the buffer motor. &lt;br /&gt;
# Apply the polishing rouge to the cloth wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1286 Canvas Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
Always start with the correct rouge for the material you are working with. Use the rake as needed to clean the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The buffing wheels need to be cleaned using a buffing wheel rake when switching between polishing compounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Replace wheels&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Buffers&amp;diff=10307</id>
		<title>Buffers</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Buffers&amp;diff=10307"/>
		<updated>2022-08-22T15:12:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:BuffersIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Buffer.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Baldor 332B Buffer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1286&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Baldor&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=332B&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=X1810057501 / X1810057506&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!&lt;br /&gt;
*The buffing wheels can catch the material you are polishing and rip it out of your hands. &lt;br /&gt;
*Be aware of the direction of the spinning wheels.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Never hold a part so the edge can catch the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
*Never wear gloves while buffing.  If a part gets warm take a break and let it cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Baldor buffers are built rugged for demanding work loads. 1,800 RPM buffers offer the ultimate in buffer flexibility. Excellent for polishing and buffing metal, aluminum, brass and copper.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is video about polishing. This guy is wearing gloves while polishing but you should '''never''' wear gloves around rotating equipment. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SidCppOfJY Video Demonstration}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Buffing Wheel Rake -Metal teeth mounted to a wooden handle used for cleaning the buffing wheels.&lt;br /&gt;
*Rouge -A polishing compound that normally comes in bars.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Baldor.pdf|Buffer User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There is a cloth wheel located on both sides of the buffer motor.  When you rub the polishing rouge against the cloth wheels some of the material embeds and sticks in the cloth. As you press material up against the wheel small amounts of material get removed and begin to polish the metal surface. You will need to apply more rouge as the material is used up.  The wheels spins at 1800 RPM so remember to always work on the lower portion of the wheel and never hold any parts so the edges can catch on the wheel. Never wear gloves while using rotating equipment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You will need to demonstration how to setup the buffer and safely polish a piece of scrap aluminum.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Select a scrap piece of aluminum or a part to polish.&lt;br /&gt;
# Debur the part so no sharp edges are present.&lt;br /&gt;
# select the proper rouge for the material you are polishing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Put on a face shield to protect your face.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn on the power switch for the buffer motor. &lt;br /&gt;
# Apply the polishing rouge to the cloth wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1286 Canvas Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
Always start with the correct rouge for the material you are working with. Use the rake as needed to clean the wheel.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The buffing wheels need to be cleaned using a buffing wheel rake when switching between polishing compounds.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Replace wheels&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Formlabs_3D_Printer&amp;diff=10269</id>
		<title>Formlabs 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Formlabs_3D_Printer&amp;diff=10269"/>
		<updated>2022-08-04T18:47:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=DelicateOyster / KeenFly&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:formlabs_printer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Formlabs 3D Printer Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:formlabs_printer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:form-2.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Formlabs Form 2 3D Printer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=(???)&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1237&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=3D Printers&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Formlabs&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Form 3&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Ellie Strauss;estrauss21@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|300px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 3 is Formlab's 3rd generation printer boasting a whole range of new features including a new peeling mechanism, heated tank, touchscreen display, wireless controls and an automated resin system. The resulting prints that come off of the Form 3 have consistently been among the highest quality objects to come off of any desktop 3D printer. This machine is best used with the [[Form Wash and Cure]] &amp;lt;ref name=&amp;quot;:0&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Description adapted from [https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/form-2 3dhubs].&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 3 employs [[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]] (Stereolithography Apparatus). Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled in the PreForm software to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This ensures the wiper blade in the resin tank doesn't remove the print from the build plate. When reviewing the supports in PreForm, check to make sure all supports are created in areas from which they can be easily removed, or that supports created in inaccessible areas won't interfere with the print's intended function. Also check to make sure no supports are created on hard edges, as any placed supports will break up the edge, and removing them properly takes longer than necessary and can potentially damage the print.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tn5zA5bNSE}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:TouchScreen.jpg|Touchscreen&lt;br /&gt;
File:...resinCartridge.jpg|Resin Cartridge&lt;br /&gt;
File:...form2BuildPlate.jpg|Build Platform&lt;br /&gt;
File:...ResinTray.png|Resin Tank&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Quick-Start-Guide?language=en_US Quick Start Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/ Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/tech-specs/ Tech Specs]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/design-specs/ Design Specs]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 3 is most useful for its ability to print incredibly accurate parts, with layers as thin as .025mm thick, depending on the resin selected. Due to the size of the Form 2, it can only be used to print smaller pieces, and the extra layering for detail combined with the de-lamination process also causes the Form 3 to generally be the slowest printer in the lab. Unless an exception is made, a model with supports included should be no larger than 30mL worth of resin. If specific material properties are needed for a print, the Form 3 is a good option to look into thanks to the many differing resins available for use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete understanding of the Form 3, students will prepare a part, upload it to the Form 3, and print it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Setting up PreForm&lt;br /&gt;
##PreForm is the software we will use to import or model to the printer.  When connecting to PreForm you need to make sure the wifi is enabled and connected to bruin Secure. Make sure the correct printer is selected as well.&lt;br /&gt;
##To begin with, make sure the print is under the approved cost/size cutoff ($7), or the person printing has special approval to exceed this limit.&lt;br /&gt;
##If a window pops up saying the print is broken, hit the repair button then proceed as normal.&lt;br /&gt;
##Parts must be shrunk to fit within the build area, further size edits can be made in the Size tab.&lt;br /&gt;
###The goal is to reduce the horizontal area covered with each pass of the wiper. Start with auto-orienting the part using the 'Orient Selected' button in the Orientation tab, this is a good place to start and will make it easier to see if the part needs further orientation.[[File:Size set.jpg|none|thumb| Image 1-Model too big for build plate--Image 2-Model shrunk to fit build plate]]&lt;br /&gt;
##Don't place supports on hard edges (right angles) or in inaccessible places. This will cause the print to be unprintable.&lt;br /&gt;
##Every part that needs support should have support - PreForm will highlight unsupported areas in red, place supports until the red areas go away. '''Check the part thoroughly because PreForm will not let you print with unsupported areas.'''&lt;br /&gt;
##Supports can be added, edited, and removed in the PreForm Supports tab.&lt;br /&gt;
###Support density should be between .5 and .7.   '''''[Note - Is this a setting or a dimension?]'''''&lt;br /&gt;
###Support point size should be between .6mm and .8mm.&lt;br /&gt;
###These values can be edited if necessary to ensure printability, just use common sense when adjusting values.&lt;br /&gt;
##The Layout tab can be used to add additional copies of a part.&lt;br /&gt;
##Ensure you are connected to Bruin Secure wifi with the proper printer and resin type selected in Preform prior to printing. Additionally, make sure that the resin you want is already installed in the printers. If the resin needs to be changed to the one that you want, ask a Lab Volunteer to help you.&lt;br /&gt;
#Choosing a Resin Type&lt;br /&gt;
##Go through each of these resin types to evaluate which material you will make your part out of. Once you have finished, you can send the file from the computer to the Formlabs printer&lt;br /&gt;
##Black/grey standard: the Standard Resins section of [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material].&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: high detail, matte surfaces, good for small, intricate features.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: not particularly strong, stretchy, or flexible.&lt;br /&gt;
##Tough: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Tough-Resin?language=en_US Tough]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: good for hard edges, snap fits, and high-stresses.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine details and rigid prints, will not stretch as much as Durable.&lt;br /&gt;
##Durable: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Durable-Resin?language=en_US Durable]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: low-friction, high impact strength, good for parts that are both rigid and flexible.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine detail parts.&lt;br /&gt;
##Flexible: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Flexible-Resin?language=en_US Flexible]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: can simulate rubber when uncured, good for functional prototyping.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine detail or applications when rigidity or hardness are required.&lt;br /&gt;
##See the respective links for each resin for in-depth descriptions of each resin's properties and suggested applications, or look at [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material] for a shorter overview. Most resins do not handle high temperatures or constant loading well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Operating the Touchscreen&lt;br /&gt;
##You will be able to start your print using the touchscreen on the Form 3. If it is sleeping, just press the button and it should wake up.&lt;br /&gt;
##When it wakes up, you will likely see this screen. It displays the most recently prepared job and gives you the option to print now by pressing the blue button on the bottom right of the screen.[[File:TouchScreen.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
##There are two other buttons you can press on the left screen. The USB button will take you to the settings of the printer, so you will not need to go here. The checklist button brings a list of every job that has been uploaded to the printer, so you will want to be selecting this one to find your print. When you find your print, select &amp;quot;print now&amp;quot;. The printer will make sure that you perform the appropriate setup before it starts printing, such as inserting the tank in the back of the printer and assuring that the build plate is cleared of other printed parts.&lt;br /&gt;
##The print will begin its process once you hit Print Now! A time estimate will be provided.&lt;br /&gt;
#Removing Prints&lt;br /&gt;
##Your part should now be finished! Follow these steps to clean it up.&lt;br /&gt;
##Finished prints&lt;br /&gt;
###Use a scraping tool to remove the print and any extra material from the build plate, taking care to not scratch the build plate. Go as carefully and as slowly as needed to prevent damaging the print.&lt;br /&gt;
####The build plate stand can be used for easier removal.&lt;br /&gt;
###Wash the print in the Form Wash.&lt;br /&gt;
###If the print is being cured, only remove support material after it has been run through the Form Cure.&lt;br /&gt;
###Supports should be clipped off, and any leftover support material can be sanded down if desired.&lt;br /&gt;
##Failed prints&lt;br /&gt;
###Follow the same process for finished prints for removing.&lt;br /&gt;
###'''When a print fails, the build plate must be cleaned and run through the Wash''' before a new print can be started, as leftover residue from the failed print can cause subsequent prints to also fail. You will also need to check the resin tank for clumps as well as double check the model orientation.  Don't forget to update the job log as well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Washing and Curing Prints&lt;br /&gt;
##See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page.&lt;br /&gt;
#Changing Resin&lt;br /&gt;
##If the Formlabs Printer resin tray does not contain the resin you want, allow Lab volunteers to provide the desired resin.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove, clean, and replace the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
###Pull lever holding build plate in place up, allowing the build plate to be removed.&lt;br /&gt;
###Place the build plate on the holding rack in the Form Wash. Run the build plate through the Wash to remove resin. For the build plate, the Wash should be set to 10 minutes.&lt;br /&gt;
###Let the build plate air dry before replacing, secure by flipping lever down.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove and replace resin tank and wiper.&lt;br /&gt;
###Firmly pull wiper back until it's out of its slot and loose in the resin tank. Leave the wiper in the resin tank, each tank has its own wiper.&lt;br /&gt;
###Firmly pull tank back until it pops loose of the printer, put the appropriate lid on the resin tank, and store with wiper in tank.&lt;br /&gt;
###Before inserting the new resin tank, remove its lid and store.&lt;br /&gt;
###Slot the new resin tank into place in the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Use a scraping tool to dredge bottom of new resin tank for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, remove any found bits.&lt;br /&gt;
###Slot the new tank's wiper into place.&lt;br /&gt;
###Be sure to clean up any resin that spills during this process.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove and replace the resin cartridge in the back of the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Close the lid of the cartridge if it's open.&lt;br /&gt;
###Pull cartridge out of the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Wipe dry the resin drip on the bottom of the cartridge, then store.&lt;br /&gt;
###Insert new resin cartridge, '''of the same resin as the tank'''.&lt;br /&gt;
###Open lid on resin cartridge before starting a print, and close after.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
The most dangerous part of using the Form 3 is taking the part off of the build plate. The scraping tool could hurt your little fingers, so make sure you do not hit them. Also, the alcohol used to clean the print is not for drinking purposes. It is both against the lifestyle contract and very harmful to you if you drink it, so do not do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Approved Resins==&lt;br /&gt;
*&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1237 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If a print fails, the most likely cause is contamination of the resin. Before proceeding, see the procedure for Failed Prints. Contamination of the resin involves leftover material on the build plate, or particulates in the resin tank. Before attempting a new print, thoroughly clean the build plate, and dredge the resin tank for any loose particles. Another cause is incorrect orientation of the print. Check the print file in question, and ensure it has been canted accordingly to prevent the de-laminating process from removing the print from the build plate. Make sure to also update the job log.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Old resin and resin tanks can also present issues.  '''Don't ever mix resin types.''' If a resin tanks is particularly cloudy on the bottom, the laser will be prevented from being able to penetrate the tank, and cause adhesion issues for the print. Resin can also go bad after sitting for long periods of time or being used heavily. This can be evidenced by discoloration of the resin or separation of the resin into unmixed layers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Dredging: Every few prints the resin tank should be checked and dredged with a scraping tool to search for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, as well as when resin tanks are switched out, and when a print fails. Remove any found bits. Dredging is done by sweeping a scraping tool back and forth across the bottom of the resin tank, essentially mixing up the resin to stir up any loose bits. Take care while dredging to not scrape the tank. See a resin's particular page on the Formlabs website for additional cleaning instruction. If the tank is not cleanable, switch out the resin tank. If the problem persists, it's possible the resin cartridge needs to be switched out as well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Alcohol in the Form Wash must be changed once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.&lt;br /&gt;
#Old resin and resin tanks will occasionally need to be changed out&lt;br /&gt;
#[https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000003904-Form-2 Form 2 Sources and Help]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dredging&lt;br /&gt;
|Every few prints&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Changing Alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
|Once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use. Reset The Space!&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Resources==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Form Wash and Cure]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Link to shop [[Equipment]] page&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Formlabs_3D_Printer&amp;diff=10268</id>
		<title>Formlabs 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Formlabs_3D_Printer&amp;diff=10268"/>
		<updated>2022-08-04T18:45:51Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=DelicateOyster / KeenFly&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:formlabs_printer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Formlabs 3D Printer Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:formlabs_printer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:form-2.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Formlabs Form 2 3D Printer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=(???)&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1237&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=3D Printers&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Formlabs&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Form 3&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Ellie Strauss;estrauss21@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|300px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is Formlab's 3rd generation printer boasting a whole range of new features including a new peeling mechanism, heated tank, touchscreen display, wireless controls and an automated resin system. The resulting prints that come off of the Form 2 have consistently been among the highest quality objects to come off of any desktop 3D printer. This machine is best used with the [[Form Wash and Cure]] &amp;lt;ref name=&amp;quot;:0&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Description adapted from [https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/form-2 3dhubs].&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 employs [[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]] (Stereolithography Apparatus). Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled in the PreForm software to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This ensures the wiper blade in the resin tank doesn't remove the print from the build plate. When reviewing the supports in PreForm, check to make sure all supports are created in areas from which they can be easily removed, or that supports created in inaccessible areas won't interfere with the print's intended function. Also check to make sure no supports are created on hard edges, as any placed supports will break up the edge, and removing them properly takes longer than necessary and can potentially damage the print.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tn5zA5bNSE}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:TouchScreen.jpg|Touchscreen&lt;br /&gt;
File:...resinCartridge.jpg|Resin Cartridge&lt;br /&gt;
File:...form2BuildPlate.jpg|Build Platform&lt;br /&gt;
File:...ResinTray.png|Resin Tank&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Quick-Start-Guide?language=en_US Quick Start Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/ Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/tech-specs/ Tech Specs]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/design-specs/ Design Specs]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is most useful for its ability to print incredibly accurate parts, with layers as thin as .025mm thick, depending on the resin selected. Due to the size of the Form 2, it can only be used to print smaller pieces, and the extra layering for detail combined with the de-lamination process also causes the Form 2 to generally be the slowest printer in the lab. Unless an exception is made, a model with supports included should be no larger than 30mL worth of resin. If specific material properties are needed for a print, the Form 2 is a good option to look into thanks to the many differing resins available for use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete understanding of the Form 2, students will prepare a part, upload it to the Form 2, and print it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Setting up PreForm&lt;br /&gt;
##PreForm is the software we will use to import or model to the printer.  When connecting to PreForm you need to make sure the wifi is enabled and connected to bruin Secure. Make sure the correct printer is selected as well.&lt;br /&gt;
##To begin with, make sure the print is under the approved cost/size cutoff ($7), or the person printing has special approval to exceed this limit.&lt;br /&gt;
##If a window pops up saying the print is broken, hit the repair button then proceed as normal.&lt;br /&gt;
##Parts must be shrunk to fit within the build area, further size edits can be made in the Size tab.&lt;br /&gt;
###The goal is to reduce the horizontal area covered with each pass of the wiper. Start with auto-orienting the part using the 'Orient Selected' button in the Orientation tab, this is a good place to start and will make it easier to see if the part needs further orientation.[[File:Size set.jpg|none|thumb| Image 1-Model too big for build plate--Image 2-Model shrunk to fit build plate]]&lt;br /&gt;
##Don't place supports on hard edges (right angles) or in inaccessible places. This will cause the print to be unprintable.&lt;br /&gt;
##Every part that needs support should have support - PreForm will highlight unsupported areas in red, place supports until the red areas go away. '''Check the part thoroughly because PreForm will not let you print with unsupported areas.'''&lt;br /&gt;
##Supports can be added, edited, and removed in the PreForm Supports tab.&lt;br /&gt;
###Support density should be between .5 and .7.   '''''[Note - Is this a setting or a dimension?]'''''&lt;br /&gt;
###Support point size should be between .6mm and .8mm.&lt;br /&gt;
###These values can be edited if necessary to ensure printability, just use common sense when adjusting values.&lt;br /&gt;
##The Layout tab can be used to add additional copies of a part.&lt;br /&gt;
##Ensure you are connected to Bruin Secure wifi with the proper printer and resin type selected in Preform prior to printing. Additionally, make sure that the resin you want is already installed in the printers. If the resin needs to be changed to the one that you want, ask a Lab Volunteer to help you.&lt;br /&gt;
#Choosing a Resin Type&lt;br /&gt;
##Go through each of these resin types to evaluate which material you will make your part out of. Once you have finished, you can send the file from the computer to the Formlabs printer&lt;br /&gt;
##Black/grey standard: the Standard Resins section of [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material].&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: high detail, matte surfaces, good for small, intricate features.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: not particularly strong, stretchy, or flexible.&lt;br /&gt;
##Tough: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Tough-Resin?language=en_US Tough]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: good for hard edges, snap fits, and high-stresses.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine details and rigid prints, will not stretch as much as Durable.&lt;br /&gt;
##Durable: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Durable-Resin?language=en_US Durable]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: low-friction, high impact strength, good for parts that are both rigid and flexible.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine detail parts.&lt;br /&gt;
##Flexible: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Flexible-Resin?language=en_US Flexible]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: can simulate rubber when uncured, good for functional prototyping.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine detail or applications when rigidity or hardness are required.&lt;br /&gt;
##See the respective links for each resin for in-depth descriptions of each resin's properties and suggested applications, or look at [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material] for a shorter overview. Most resins do not handle high temperatures or constant loading well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Operating the Touchscreen&lt;br /&gt;
##You will be able to start your print using the touchscreen on the Form 2. If it is sleeping, just press the button and it should wake up.&lt;br /&gt;
##When it wakes up, you will likely see this screen. It displays the most recently prepared job and gives you the option to print now by pressing the blue button on the bottom right of the screen.[[File:TouchScreen.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
##There are two other buttons you can press on the left screen. The USB button will take you to the settings of the printer, so you will not need to go here. The checklist button brings a list of every job that has been uploaded to the printer, so you will want to be selecting this one to find your print. When you find your print, select &amp;quot;print now&amp;quot;. The printer will make sure that you perform the appropriate setup before it starts printing, such as inserting the tank in the back of the printer and assuring that the build plate is cleared of other printed parts.&lt;br /&gt;
##The print will begin its process once you hit Print Now! A time estimate will be provided.&lt;br /&gt;
#Removing Prints&lt;br /&gt;
##Your part should now be finished! Follow these steps to clean it up.&lt;br /&gt;
##Finished prints&lt;br /&gt;
###Use a scraping tool to remove the print and any extra material from the build plate, taking care to not scratch the build plate. Go as carefully and as slowly as needed to prevent damaging the print.&lt;br /&gt;
####The build plate stand can be used for easier removal.&lt;br /&gt;
###Wash the print in the Form Wash.&lt;br /&gt;
###If the print is being cured, only remove support material after it has been run through the Form Cure.&lt;br /&gt;
###Supports should be clipped off, and any leftover support material can be sanded down if desired.&lt;br /&gt;
##Failed prints&lt;br /&gt;
###Follow the same process for finished prints for removing.&lt;br /&gt;
###'''When a print fails, the build plate must be cleaned and run through the Wash''' before a new print can be started, as leftover residue from the failed print can cause subsequent prints to also fail. You will also need to check the resin tank for clumps as well as double check the model orientation.  Don't forget to update the job log as well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Washing and Curing Prints&lt;br /&gt;
##See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page.&lt;br /&gt;
#Changing Resin&lt;br /&gt;
##If the Formlabs Printer resin tray does not contain the resin you want, allow Lab volunteers to provide the desired resin.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove, clean, and replace the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
###Pull lever holding build plate in place up, allowing the build plate to be removed.&lt;br /&gt;
###Place the build plate on the holding rack in the Form Wash. Run the build plate through the Wash to remove resin. For the build plate, the Wash should be set to 10 minutes.&lt;br /&gt;
###Let the build plate air dry before replacing, secure by flipping lever down.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove and replace resin tank and wiper.&lt;br /&gt;
###Firmly pull wiper back until it's out of its slot and loose in the resin tank. Leave the wiper in the resin tank, each tank has its own wiper.&lt;br /&gt;
###Firmly pull tank back until it pops loose of the printer, put the appropriate lid on the resin tank, and store with wiper in tank.&lt;br /&gt;
###Before inserting the new resin tank, remove its lid and store.&lt;br /&gt;
###Slot the new resin tank into place in the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Use a scraping tool to dredge bottom of new resin tank for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, remove any found bits.&lt;br /&gt;
###Slot the new tank's wiper into place.&lt;br /&gt;
###Be sure to clean up any resin that spills during this process.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove and replace the resin cartridge in the back of the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Close the lid of the cartridge if it's open.&lt;br /&gt;
###Pull cartridge out of the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Wipe dry the resin drip on the bottom of the cartridge, then store.&lt;br /&gt;
###Insert new resin cartridge, '''of the same resin as the tank'''.&lt;br /&gt;
###Open lid on resin cartridge before starting a print, and close after.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
The most dangerous part of using the Form 2 is taking the part off of the build plate. The scraping tool could hurt your little fingers, so make sure you do not hit them. Also, the alcohol used to clean the print is not for drinking purposes. It is both against the lifestyle contract and very harmful to you if you drink it, so do not do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Approved Resins==&lt;br /&gt;
*&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1237 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If a print fails, the most likely cause is contamination of the resin. Before proceeding, see the procedure for Failed Prints. Contamination of the resin involves leftover material on the build plate, or particulates in the resin tank. Before attempting a new print, thoroughly clean the build plate, and dredge the resin tank for any loose particles. Another cause is incorrect orientation of the print. Check the print file in question, and ensure it has been canted accordingly to prevent the de-laminating process from removing the print from the build plate. Make sure to also update the job log.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Old resin and resin tanks can also present issues.  '''Don't ever mix resin types.''' If a resin tanks is particularly cloudy on the bottom, the laser will be prevented from being able to penetrate the tank, and cause adhesion issues for the print. Resin can also go bad after sitting for long periods of time or being used heavily. This can be evidenced by discoloration of the resin or separation of the resin into unmixed layers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Dredging: Every few prints the resin tank should be checked and dredged with a scraping tool to search for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, as well as when resin tanks are switched out, and when a print fails. Remove any found bits. Dredging is done by sweeping a scraping tool back and forth across the bottom of the resin tank, essentially mixing up the resin to stir up any loose bits. Take care while dredging to not scrape the tank. See a resin's particular page on the Formlabs website for additional cleaning instruction. If the tank is not cleanable, switch out the resin tank. If the problem persists, it's possible the resin cartridge needs to be switched out as well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Alcohol in the Form Wash must be changed once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.&lt;br /&gt;
#Old resin and resin tanks will occasionally need to be changed out&lt;br /&gt;
#[https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000003904-Form-2 Form 2 Sources and Help]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dredging&lt;br /&gt;
|Every few prints&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Changing Alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
|Once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use. Reset The Space!&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Resources==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Form Wash and Cure]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Link to shop [[Equipment]] page&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Formlabs_3D_Printer&amp;diff=10267</id>
		<title>Formlabs 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Formlabs_3D_Printer&amp;diff=10267"/>
		<updated>2022-08-04T18:45:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=DelicateOyster / KeenFly&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:formlabs_printer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Formlabs 3D Printer Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:formlabs_printer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:form-2.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Formlabs Form 2 3D Printer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=(???)&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1237&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=3D Printers&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Formlabs&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Form 3&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Ellie Strauss;estrauss21@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|300px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is Formlab's 3rd generation printer boasting a whole range of new features including a new peeling mechanism, heated tank, touchscreen display, wireless controls and an automated resin system. The resulting prints that come off of the Form 2 have consistently been among the highest quality objects to come off of any desktop 3D printer. This machine is best used with the [[Form Wash and Cure]] &amp;lt;ref name=&amp;quot;:0&amp;quot;&amp;gt;Description adapted from [https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/form-2 3dhubs].&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 employs [[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]] (Stereolithography Apparatus). Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled in the PreForm software to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This ensures the wiper blade in the resin tank doesn't remove the print from the build plate. When reviewing the supports in PreForm, check to make sure all supports are created in areas from which they can be easily removed, or that supports created in inaccessible areas won't interfere with the print's intended function. Also check to make sure no supports are created on hard edges, as any placed supports will break up the edge, and removing them properly takes longer than necessary and can potentially damage the print.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tn5zA5bNSE}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:TouchScreen.jpg|Touchscreen&lt;br /&gt;
File:...resinCartridge.jpg|Resin Cartridge&lt;br /&gt;
File:...form2BuildPlate.jpg|Build Platform&lt;br /&gt;
File:...ResinTray.png|Resin Tank&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Quick-Start-Guide?language=en_US Quick Start Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/ Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/tech-specs/ Tech Specs]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/design-specs/ Design Specs]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is most useful for its ability to print incredibly accurate parts, with layers as thin as .025mm thick, depending on the resin selected. Due to the size of the Form 2, it can only be used to print smaller pieces, and the extra layering for detail combined with the de-lamination process also causes the Form 2 to generally be the slowest printer in the lab. Unless an exception is made, a model with supports included should be no larger than 30mL worth of resin. If specific material properties are needed for a print, the Form 2 is a good option to look into thanks to the many differing resins available for use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete understanding of the Form 2, students will prepare a part, upload it to the Form 2, and print it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Setting up PreForm&lt;br /&gt;
##PreForm is the software we will use to import or model to the printer.  When connecting to PreForm you need to make sure the wifi is enabled and connected to bruin Secure. Make sure the correct printer is selected as well.&lt;br /&gt;
##To begin with, make sure the print is under the approved cost/size cutoff ($7), or the person printing has special approval to exceed this limit.&lt;br /&gt;
##If a window pops up saying the print is broken, hit the repair button then proceed as normal.&lt;br /&gt;
##Parts must be shrunk to fit within the build area, further size edits can be made in the Size tab.&lt;br /&gt;
###The goal is to reduce the horizontal area covered with each pass of the wiper. Start with auto-orienting the part using the 'Orient Selected' button in the Orientation tab, this is a good place to start and will make it easier to see if the part needs further orientation.[[File:Size set.jpg|none|thumb| Image 1-Model too big for build plate--Image 2-Model shrunk to fit build plate]]&lt;br /&gt;
##Don't place supports on hard edges (right angles) or in inaccessible places. This will cause the print to be unprintable.&lt;br /&gt;
##Every part that needs support should have support - PreForm will highlight unsupported areas in red, place supports until the red areas go away. '''Check the part thoroughly because PreForm will not let you print with unsupported areas.'''&lt;br /&gt;
##Supports can be added, edited, and removed in the PreForm Supports tab.&lt;br /&gt;
###Support density should be between .5 and .7.   '''''[Note - Is this a setting or a dimension?]'''''&lt;br /&gt;
###Support point size should be between .6mm and .8mm.&lt;br /&gt;
###These values can be edited if necessary to ensure printability, just use common sense when adjusting values.&lt;br /&gt;
##The Layout tab can be used to add additional copies of a part.&lt;br /&gt;
##Ensure you are connected to Bruin Secure wifi with the proper printer and resin type selected in Preform prior to printing. Additionally, make sure that the resin you want is already installed in the printers. If the resin needs to be changed to the one that you want, ask a Lab Volunteer to help you.&lt;br /&gt;
#Choosing a Resin Type&lt;br /&gt;
##Go through each of these resin types to evaluate which material you will make your part out of. Once you have finished, you can send the file from the computer to the Formlabs printer&lt;br /&gt;
##Black/grey standard: the Standard Resins section of [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material].&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: high detail, matte surfaces, good for small, intricate features.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: not particularly strong, stretchy, or flexible.&lt;br /&gt;
##Tough: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Tough-Resin?language=en_US Tough]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: good for hard edges, snap fits, and high-stresses.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine details and rigid prints, will not stretch as much as Durable.&lt;br /&gt;
##Durable: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Durable-Resin?language=en_US Durable]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: low-friction, high impact strength, good for parts that are both rigid and flexible.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine detail parts.&lt;br /&gt;
##Flexible: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Flexible-Resin?language=en_US Flexible]&lt;br /&gt;
###Pros: can simulate rubber when uncured, good for functional prototyping.&lt;br /&gt;
###Cons: bad for fine detail or applications when rigidity or hardness are required.&lt;br /&gt;
##See the respective links for each resin for in-depth descriptions of each resin's properties and suggested applications, or look at [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material] for a shorter overview. Most resins do not handle high temperatures or constant loading well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Operating the Touchscreen&lt;br /&gt;
##You will be able to start your print using the touchscreen on the Form 2. If it is sleeping, just press the button and it should wake up.&lt;br /&gt;
##When it wakes up, you will likely see this screen. It displays the most recently prepared job and gives you the option to print now by pressing the blue button on the bottom right of the screen.[[File:TouchScreen.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
##There are two other buttons you can press on the left screen. The USB button will take you to the settings of the printer, so you will not need to go here. The checklist button brings a list of every job that has been uploaded to the printer, so you will want to be selecting this one to find your print. When you find your print, select &amp;quot;print now&amp;quot;. The printer will make sure that you perform the appropriate setup before it starts printing, such as inserting the tank in the back of the printer and assuring that the build plate is cleared of other printed parts.&lt;br /&gt;
##The print will begin its process once you hit Print Now! A time estimate will be provided.&lt;br /&gt;
#Removing Prints&lt;br /&gt;
##Your part should now be finished! Follow these steps to clean it up.&lt;br /&gt;
##Finished prints&lt;br /&gt;
###Use a scraping tool to remove the print and any extra material from the build plate, taking care to not scratch the build plate. Go as carefully and as slowly as needed to prevent damaging the print.&lt;br /&gt;
####The build plate stand can be used for easier removal.&lt;br /&gt;
###Wash the print in the Form Wash.&lt;br /&gt;
###If the print is being cured, only remove support material after it has been run through the Form Cure.&lt;br /&gt;
###Supports should be clipped off, and any leftover support material can be sanded down if desired.&lt;br /&gt;
##Failed prints&lt;br /&gt;
###Follow the same process for finished prints for removing.&lt;br /&gt;
###'''When a print fails, the build plate must be cleaned and run through the Wash''' before a new print can be started, as leftover residue from the failed print can cause subsequent prints to also fail. You will also need to check the resin tank for clumps as well as double check the model orientation.  Don't forget to update the job log as well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Washing and Curing Prints&lt;br /&gt;
##See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page.&lt;br /&gt;
#Changing Resin&lt;br /&gt;
##If the Formlabs Printer resin tray does not contain the resin you want, allow Lab volunteers to provide the desired resin.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove, clean, and replace the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
###Pull lever holding build plate in place up, allowing the build plate to be removed.&lt;br /&gt;
###Place the build plate on the holding rack in the Form Wash. Run the build plate through the Wash to remove resin. For the build plate, the Wash should be set to 10 minutes.&lt;br /&gt;
###Let the build plate air dry before replacing, secure by flipping lever down.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove and replace resin tank and wiper.&lt;br /&gt;
###Firmly pull wiper back until it's out of its slot and loose in the resin tank. Leave the wiper in the resin tank, each tank has its own wiper.&lt;br /&gt;
###Firmly pull tank back until it pops loose of the printer, put the appropriate lid on the resin tank, and store with wiper in tank.&lt;br /&gt;
###Before inserting the new resin tank, remove its lid and store.&lt;br /&gt;
###Slot the new resin tank into place in the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Use a scraping tool to dredge bottom of new resin tank for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, remove any found bits.&lt;br /&gt;
###Slot the new tank's wiper into place.&lt;br /&gt;
###Be sure to clean up any resin that spills during this process.&lt;br /&gt;
##Remove and replace the resin cartridge in the back of the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Close the lid of the cartridge if it's open.&lt;br /&gt;
###Pull cartridge out of the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
###Wipe dry the resin drip on the bottom of the cartridge, then store.&lt;br /&gt;
###Insert new resin cartridge, '''of the same resin as the tank'''.&lt;br /&gt;
###Open lid on resin cartridge before starting a print, and close after.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
The most dangerous part of using the Form 2 is taking the part off of the build plate. The scraping tool could hurt your little fingers, so make sure you do not hit them. Also, the alcohol used to clean the print is not for drinking purposes. It is both against the lifestyle contract and very harmful to you if you drink it, so do not do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Approved Resins==&lt;br /&gt;
*&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1237 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If a print fails, the most likely cause is contamination of the resin. Before proceeding, see the procedure for Failed Prints. Contamination of the resin involves leftover material on the build plate, or particulates in the resin tank. Before attempting a new print, thoroughly clean the build plate, and dredge the resin tank for any loose particles. Another cause is incorrect orientation of the print. Check the print file in question, and ensure it has been canted accordingly to prevent the de-laminating process from removing the print from the build plate. Make sure to also update the job log.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Old resin and resin tanks can also present issues.  '''Don't ever mix resin types.''' If a resin tanks is particularly cloudy on the bottom, the laser will be prevented from being able to penetrate the tank, and cause adhesion issues for the print. Resin can also go bad after sitting for long periods of time or being used heavily. This can be evidenced by discoloration of the resin or separation of the resin into unmixed layers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Dredging: Every few prints the resin tank should be checked and dredged with a scraping tool to search for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, as well as when resin tanks are switched out, and when a print fails. Remove any found bits. Dredging is done by sweeping a scraping tool back and forth across the bottom of the resin tank, essentially mixing up the resin to stir up any loose bits. Take care while dredging to not scrape the tank. See a resin's particular page on the Formlabs website for additional cleaning instruction. If the tank is not cleanable, switch out the resin tank. If the problem persists, it's possible the resin cartridge needs to be switched out as well.&lt;br /&gt;
#Alcohol in the Form Wash must be changed once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.&lt;br /&gt;
#Old resin and resin tanks will occasionally need to be changed out&lt;br /&gt;
#[https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000003904-Form-2 Form 2 Sources and Help]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dredging&lt;br /&gt;
|Every few prints&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Changing Alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
|Once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use. Reset The Space!&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Resources==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Form Wash and Cure]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Link to shop [[Equipment]] page&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Mug_Press&amp;diff=10259</id>
		<title>Mug Press</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Mug_Press&amp;diff=10259"/>
		<updated>2022-08-04T16:31:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=The Hub&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Vinyl&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Mug_pressIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:mug-press.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Heat Press Nation HPN Signature Series Automated Sublimation Mug Heat Press&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1314&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Heat Press Nation&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=HPN-SIG-MUG&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=HPN-SIG-MUGWHB260USJL-3-009&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Daniel Oppenlander;doppenlander18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* This machine uses heat to operate so be aware of the heating element when it is running to avoid burns.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Do not leave the heating element on any longer than necessary if there is nothing inside it. Long periods of time without something in the press can damage the heating element. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The HPN Signature Series Mug Cup Heat Press machine is a professional grade mug press designed to easily and efficiently heat transfer custom images onto almost any size and shape of mug. From small sized graphics such as names and logos to full wrap, edge to edge images. This machine is to be used with transfers from the sub dye printer. When transferring an image to a mug you need to make sure the material used is compatible. Mugs used with the sub dye process have a special coating.  Here is an example of transferring an image:&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vndbNZ8wCIM}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* SV - Stands for set value and is used to indicate the parameters that the press should be operating at.&lt;br /&gt;
* CV - Stands for present value and indicates the current value of the heat press parameters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Manual-hpn-transfer.pdf|Mug Press User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The operation of the mug press is pretty simple. First, select a heating element that fits your glass or mug and fasten it into place using the black screws. There is no formula for selecting the correct element other than putting your mug inside and making sure it fits snug. Adjust the pressure using the large black knobs so that there is a firm, even pressure over the mug. Next, set the time and temperature. Feel free to experiment with different values as there is not an exact formula, but for dye sublimation set the temperature around 385°F for 190 seconds. The paper should have light tan look after removing it from the press. If the paper appears burnt the temperature should be decreased. After the time and temperature are set place the mug in the element and clamp down. The timer will beep once the transfer is complete. For complete details see the general procedure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A mug or glass is required in order to perform a transfer on this machine which makes it difficult to perform simple test or demonstration transfers. Consequently, the demonstration will be pressing a graphic of choice onto a mug or glass.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select a heating element. Heating elements come in different sizes with their own connection cord.  This is not an exact science, simply slide the mug into the element and make sure it can wrap around it with a snug fit. &lt;br /&gt;
# Use the black set screws to secure the heating element into the press and plug it into the controller. Make sure to screw in the plug as well to ensure a good connection.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the heating element is installed you will want to adjust the pressure applied to the mug using the four large pressure adjustment knobs. The pressure should be evenly distributed across the mugs's surface and firm without risk of crushing it. &lt;br /&gt;
# Adjust the time and temperature. 385 °F for 190 seconds is recommended as a starting point but feel free to try new things to improve the results. See the image below for details on changing the time and temp. [[File:Mug press temp.png|none|thumb|799x799px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Place the graphic onto the mug. High temp tape should be used so that the graphic does not shift after it is placed into the press.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Put the mug into the press and clamp down until the timer beeps.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the mug from the press and wait about 30 seconds + before removing the paper. The mug will be very hot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Reset the space by turning off the machine, throwing away any scraps and wiping any debris off the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1314 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* If the paper looks really dark/black on removal the temperature needs to be reduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only maintenance needed on this machine is general cleaning. Use a paper towel and cleaner if necessary to wipe of any dust and vinyl debris. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Student &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Mug_Press&amp;diff=10258</id>
		<title>Mug Press</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Mug_Press&amp;diff=10258"/>
		<updated>2022-08-04T16:31:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=The Hub&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Vinyl&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Mug_pressIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:mug-press.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Heat Press Nation HPN Signature Series Automated Sublimation Mug Heat Press&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1314&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Heat Press Nation&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=HPN-SIG-MUG&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=HPN-SIG-MUGWHB260USJL-3-009&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Daniel Oppenlander;doppenlander18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* This machine uses heat to operate so be aware of the heating element when it is running to avoid burns.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Do not leave the heating element on any longer than necessary if there is nothing inside it. Long periods of time without something in the press can damage the heating element. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The HPN Signature Series Mug Cup Heat Press machine is a professional grade mug press designed to easily and efficiently heat transfer custom images onto almost any size and shape of mug. From small sized graphics such as names and logos to full wrap, edge to edge images. This machine is to be used with transfers from the sub dye printer. When transferring an image to a mug you need to make sure the material used is compatible. Mugs used with the sub dye process have a special coating.  Here is an example of transferring an image:&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vndbNZ8wCIM}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* SV - Stands for set value and is used to indicate the parameters that the press should be operating at.&lt;br /&gt;
* CV - Stands for present value and indicates the current value of the heat press parameters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Manual-hpn-transfer.pdf|Mug Press User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The operation of the mug press is pretty simple. First, select a heating element that fits your glass or mug and fasten it into place using the black screws. There is no formula for selecting the correct element other than putting your mug inside and making sure it fits snug. Adjust the pressure using the large black knobs so that there is a firm, even pressure over the mug. Next, set the time and temperature. Feel free to experiment with different values as there is not an exact formula, but for dye sublimation set the temperature around 385°F for 190 seconds. The paper should have light tan look after removing it from the press. If the paper appears burnt the temperature should be decreased. After the time and temperature are set place the mug in the element and clamp down. The timer will beep once the transfer is complete. For complete details see the general procedure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A mug or glass is required in order to perform a transfer on this machine which makes it difficult to perform simple test or demonstration transfers. Consequently, the demonstration will be pressing a graphic of choice onto a mug or glass.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select a heating element. Heating elements come in different sizes with their own connection cord.  This is not an exact science, simply slide the mug into the element and make sure it can wrap around it with a snug fit. &lt;br /&gt;
# Use the black set screws to secure the heating element into the press and plug it into the controller. Make sure to screw in the plug as well to ensure a good connection.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the heating element is installed you will want to adjust the pressure applied to the mug using the four large pressure adjustment knobs. The pressure should be evenly distributed across the mugs's surface and firm without risk of crushing it. &lt;br /&gt;
# Adjust the time and temperature. 385 °F for 190 seconds is recommended as a starting point but feel free to try new things to improve the results. See the image below for details on changing the time and temp. [[File:Mug press temp.png|none|thumb|799x799px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Place the graphic onto the mug. High temp tape should be used so that the graphic does not shift after it is placed into the press.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Put the mug into the press and clamp down until the timer beeps.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the mug from the press and wait about 30 seconds + before removing the paper. The mug will be very hot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Reset the space by turning off the machine, throwing away any scraps and wiping any debris off the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1314 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* If the paper looks really dark/black on removal the temperature needs to be reduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only maintenance needed on this machine is general cleaning. Use a paper towel and cleaner if necessary to wipe of any dust and vinyl debris. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Student &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Mug_Press&amp;diff=10257</id>
		<title>Mug Press</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Mug_Press&amp;diff=10257"/>
		<updated>2022-08-04T16:30:52Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=The Hub&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Vinyl&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Mug_pressIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:mug-press.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Heat Press Nation HPN Signature Series Automated Sublimation Mug Heat Press&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1314&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Heat Press Nation&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=HPN-SIG-MUG&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=HPN-SIG-MUGWHB260USJL-3-009&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Daniel Oppenlander;doppenlander18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* This machine uses heat to operate so be aware of the heating element when it is running to avoid burns.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Do not leave the heating element on any longer than necessary if there is nothing inside it. Long periods of time without something in the press can damage the heating element. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The HPN Signature Series Mug Cup Heat Press machine is a professional grade mug press designed to easily and efficiently heat transfer custom images onto almost any size and shape of mug. From small sized graphics such as names and logos to full wrap, edge to edge images. This machine is to be used with transfers from the sub dye printer. When transferring an image to a mug you need to make sure the material used is compatible. Mugs used with the sub dye process have a special coating.  Here is an example of transferring an image:&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vndbNZ8wCIM}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* SV - Stands for set value and is used to indicate the parameters that the press should be operating at.&lt;br /&gt;
* CV - Stands for present value and indicates the current value of the heat press parameters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Manual-hpn-transfer.pdf|Mug Press User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The operation of the mug press is pretty simple. First, select a heating element that fits your glass or mug and fasten it into place using the black screws. There is no formula for selecting the correct element other than putting your mug inside and making sure it fits snug. Adjust the pressure using the large black knobs so that there is a firm, even pressure over the mug. Next, set the time and temperature. Feel free to experiment with different values as there is not an exact formula, but for dye sublimation set the temperature around 385°F for 190 seconds. The paper should have light tan look after removing it from the press. If the paper appears burnt the temperature should be decreased. After the time and temperature are set place the mug in the element and clamp down. The timer will beep once the transfer is complete. For complete details see the general procedure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A mug or glass is required in order to perform a transfer on this machine which makes it difficult to perform simple test or demonstration transfers. Consequently, the demonstration will be pressing a graphic of choice onto a mug or glass.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select a heating element. Heating elements come in different sizes with their own connection cord.  This is not an exact science, simply slide the mug into the element and make sure it can wrap around it with a snug fit. &lt;br /&gt;
# Use the black set screws to secure the heating element into the press and plug it into the controller. Make sure to screw in the plug as well to ensure a good connection.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the heating element is installed you will want to adjust the pressure applied to the mug using the four large pressure adjustment knobs. The pressure should be evenly distributed across the mugs's surface and firm without risk of crushing it. &lt;br /&gt;
# Adjust the time and temperature. 385 °F for 190 seconds is recommended as a starting point but feel free to try new things to improve the results. See the image below for details on changing the time and temp. [[File:Mug press temp.png|none|thumb|799x799px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Place the graphic onto the mug. High temp tape should be used so that the graphic does not shift after it is placed into the press.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Put the mug into the press and clamp down until the timer beeps.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the mug from the press and wait about 30 seconds + before removing the paper. The mug will be very hot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Reset the space by turning off the machine, throwing away any scraps and wiping any debris off the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1314 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* If the paper looks really dark/black on removal the temperature needs to be reduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only maintenance needed on this machine is general cleaning. Use a paper towel and cleaner if necessary to wipe of any dust and vinyl debris. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Student &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Mug_Press&amp;diff=10256</id>
		<title>Mug Press</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Mug_Press&amp;diff=10256"/>
		<updated>2022-08-04T16:30:45Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=The Hub&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Vinyl&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Mug_pressIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:mug-press.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Heat Press Nation HPN Signature Series Automated Sublimation Mug Heat Press&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1314&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Heat Press Nation&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=HPN-SIG-MUG&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=HPN-SIG-MUGWHB260USJL-3-009&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Daniel Oppenlander;doppenlander18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* This machine uses heat to operate so be aware of the heating element when it is running to avoid burns.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Do not leave the heating element on any longer than necessary if there is nothing inside it. Long periods of time without something in the press can damage the heating element. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The HPN Signature Series Mug Cup Heat Press machine is a professional grade mug press designed to easily and efficiently heat transfer custom images onto almost any size and shape of mug. From small sized graphics such as names and logos to full wrap, edge to edge images. This machine is to be used with transfers from the sub dye printer. When transferring an image to a mug you need to make sure the material used is compatible. Mugs used with the sub dye process have a special coating.  Here is an example of transferring an image:&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vndbNZ8wCIM}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* SV - Stands for set value and is used to indicate the parameters that the press should be operating at.&lt;br /&gt;
* CV - Stands for present value and indicates the current value of the heat press parameters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Manual-hpn-transfer.pdf|Mug Press User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The operation of the mug press is pretty simple. First, select a heating element that fits your glass or mug and fasten it into place using the black screws. There is no formula for selecting the correct element other than putting your mug inside and making sure it fits snug. Adjust the pressure using the large black knobs so that there is a firm, even pressure over the mug. Next, set the time and temperature. Feel free to experiment with different values as there is not an exact formula, but for dye sublimation set the temperature around 385°F for 190 seconds. The paper should have light tan look after removing it from the press. If the paper appears burnt the temperature should be decreased. After the time and temperature are set place the mug in the element and clamp down. The timer will beep once the transfer is complete. For complete details see the general procedure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A mug or glass is required in order to perform a transfer on this machine which makes it difficult to perform simple test or demonstration transfers. Consequently, the demonstration will be pressing a graphic of choice onto a mug or glass.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select a heating element. Heating elements come in different sizes with their own connection cord.  This is not an exact science, simply slide the mug into the element and make sure it can wrap around it with a snug fit. &lt;br /&gt;
# Use the black set screws to secure the heating element into the press and plug it into the controller. Make sure to screw in the plug as well to ensure a good connection.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the heating element is installed you will want to adjust the pressure applied to the mug using the four large pressure adjustment knobs. The pressure should be evenly distributed across the mugs's surface and firm without risk of crushing it. &lt;br /&gt;
# Adjust the time and temperature. 385 °F for 190 seconds is recommended as a starting point but feel free to try new things to improve the results. See the image below for details on changing the time and temp. [[File:Mug press temp.png|none|thumb|799x799px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Place the graphic onto the mug. High temp tape should be used so that the graphic does not shift after it is placed into the press.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Put the mug into the press and clamp down until the timer beeps.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the mug from the press and wait about 30 seconds + before removing the paper. The mug will be very hot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Reset the space by turning off the machine, throwing away any scraps and wiping any debris off the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1314 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* If the paper looks really dark/black on removal the temperature needs to be reduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only maintenance needed on this machine is general cleaning. Use a paper towel and cleaner if necessary to wipe of any dust and vinyl debris. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Student &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Mug_Press&amp;diff=10255</id>
		<title>Mug Press</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Mug_Press&amp;diff=10255"/>
		<updated>2022-08-04T16:30:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=The Hub&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Vinyl&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Mug_pressIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:mug-press.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Heat Press Nation HPN Signature Series Automated Sublimation Mug Heat Press&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1314&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Heat Press Nation&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=HPN-SIG-MUG&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=HPN-SIG-MUGWHB260USJL-3-009&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Daniel Oppenlander;doppenlander18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* This machine uses heat to operate so be aware of the heating element when it is running to avoid burns.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Do not leave the heating element on any longer than necessary if there is nothing inside it. Long periods of time without something in the press can damage the heating element. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The HPN Signature Series Mug Cup Heat Press machine is a professional grade mug press designed to easily and efficiently heat transfer custom images onto almost any size and shape of mug. From small sized graphics such as names and logos to full wrap, edge to edge images. This machine is to be used with transfers from the sub dye printer. When transferring an image to a mug you need to make sure the material used is compatible. Mugs used with the sub dye process have a special coating.  Here is an example of transferring an image:&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vndbNZ8wCIM}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* SV - Stands for set value and is used to indicate the parameters that the press should be operating at.&lt;br /&gt;
* CV - Stands for present value and indicates the current value of the heat press parameters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Manual-hpn-transfer.pdf|Mug Press User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The operation of the mug press is pretty simple. First, select a heating element that fits your glass or mug and fasten it into place using the black screws. There is no formula for selecting the correct element other than putting your mug inside and making sure it fits snug. Adjust the pressure using the large black knobs so that there is a firm, even pressure over the mug. Next, set the time and temperature. Feel free to experiment with different values as there is not an exact formula, but for dye sublimation set the temperature around 385°F for 190 seconds. The paper should have light tan look after removing it from the press. If the paper appears burnt the temperature should be decreased. After the time and temperature are set place the mug in the element and clamp down. The timer will beep once the transfer is complete. For complete details see the general procedure.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A mug or glass is required in order to perform a transfer on this machine which makes it difficult to perform simple test or demonstration transfers. Consequently, the demonstration will be pressing a graphic of choice onto a mug or glass.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select a heating element. Heating elements come in different sizes with their own connection cord.  This is not an exact science, simply slide the mug into the element and make sure it can wrap around it with a snug fit. &lt;br /&gt;
# Use the black set screws to secure the heating element into the press and plug it into the controller. Make sure to screw in the plug as well to ensure a good connection.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the heating element is installed you will want to adjust the pressure applied to the mug using the four large pressure adjustment knobs. The pressure should be evenly distributed across the mugs's surface and firm without risk of crushing it. &lt;br /&gt;
# Adjust the time and temperature. 385 °F for 190 seconds is recommended as a starting point but feel free to try new things to improve the results. See the image below for details on changing the time and temp. [[File:Mug press temp.png|none|thumb|799x799px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Place the graphic onto the mug. High temp tape should be used so that the graphic does not shift after it is placed into the press.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Put the mug into the press and clamp down until the timer beeps.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the mug from the press and wait about 30 seconds + before removing the paper. The mug will be very hot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Reset the space by turning off the machine, throwing away any scraps and wiping any debris off the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1314 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* If the paper looks really dark/black on removal the temperature needs to be reduced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The only maintenance needed on this machine is general cleaning. Use a paper towel and cleaner if necessary to wipe of any dust and vinyl debris. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Student &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Sewing_Machine&amp;diff=10254</id>
		<title>Sewing Machine</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Sewing_Machine&amp;diff=10254"/>
		<updated>2022-08-01T15:41:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=The Hub&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Cloth&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Sewing_machine.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Sewing Machine&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:Sewing_machine_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Sewing_machine_image.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Janome 3160 QDC&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=(???)&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1264&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=3160QDC&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Janome&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=8H2036666 / 8H2036653&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace =Mary Groom;mgroom19@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a sewing machine.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep your fingers away from moving parts.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Never place your finger under the needle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
There are currently four Janome 3160 QDC sewing machines available for use in the Maker Hub. These machines feature 60 different stitch patterns. It has automatic fabric feeding, one hand needle threader and easy to follow instructions, making it an ideal machine for first time sewers. Some of its more advanced features include buttons for lock stitch, needle up or down and automatic thread cutting. It has a add on platform that can be attached to make sewing larger materials a breeze. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oo_xT1Gfg5M}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Inst-book-3160qdc-en.pdf|Sewing Machine User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.janome.com/machines/sewing/3160qdc-b/ Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Spool - Holder used for thread.&lt;br /&gt;
* Bobbin - Cylinder or spindle holder in which thread is wound thread that comes from the bottom &lt;br /&gt;
* Presser foot - piece of metal that keeps fabric in place when sewing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
All information on these specific machines can be found in the [https://www.janome.com/siteassets/support/manuals/computer-models/inst-book-49360.pdf User Manual] and on the [https://www.janome.com/machines/sewing/3160qdc Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
How to set up the machine. This video shows a similar set up process to our machines, but be sure to compare to the manual.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMTzXsyOVoI}}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A quick video on basic stitching techniques:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMoJWSmZI-U}}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
YouTube is a great resource for learning new things. If you are new to sewing, try watching a few videos to get a general understanding before jumping into sewing. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Winding the bobbin&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* Once you picked the type/color of thread spool, first get some of it loose and out and secondly place it on the large spool holder (skinny tub). Then, add the spool cap. It's side will depend on the type/ style of thread spool you picked.&lt;br /&gt;
* As you follow the guide images, put the thread around the metal knob (upper thread guide). Then slide the thread through one of the holes in the bobbin and place it in the bobbin winder spindle (small metal tube) that its on the right top of the machine. Slide the bobbin winder shaft over to lock it. &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold the thread for couple seconds at the beginning as you press the foot pedal gently and slowly. Once it becomes even or uniform, you can let go of the thread and go faster with the foot pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cut the thread once you are done and place the bobbin in the bobbin case. The drop in bobbin is covered by a plastic cover that you can remove by gently pulling the hook cover release button. Drop the bobbin and wrap the thread around a the clip under the plastic cover. Then, put the cover on.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Threading the machine&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* Grab onto the thread from the thread spool and run the thread through the knob and going down then up, following the image guide around and make sure it is catching all parts. At the end thread the needle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The demonstration will include several steps. Demonstrate you can safely setup the sewing machine, which includes winding the bobbin, threading the machine, and removing/replacing the needle. Finally, sew a mini pillow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Wind the bobbin and thread the machine&lt;br /&gt;
# Pick two pieces of fabric and turn them right sides together (flip them) because the raw edges will be inside the pillow which will protect them from fraying. Line the two pieces up.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sew three sides using a straight stitch.&lt;br /&gt;
# As you approach the corner, it's better to shorten the stitch length at the end of each side and stitch off the edge of the fabric. It makes a more durable corner--the bulk can be trimmed out of the corner, too, which makes a cleaner (pointy-er) corner. Press stop and wait until the machine stops. Make sure the needle is down and put the kickstand up. Rotate the piece and then put the kickstand down again and continue. Do the same thing to do the last side and press stop. Wait until the machine stops and you are done. Lift the presser foot to remove the work. Break the thread tails on the thread cutter, or clip with scissors.&lt;br /&gt;
# Press seams flat. Turn and press. Turn raw edges to the inside 1/4&amp;quot;, and press.&lt;br /&gt;
# Stuff. Sew open side shut by stitching with straight stitch close to pressed edges.&lt;br /&gt;
(Note: you can use pins to hold things in place, but you need to remove the pins as you stitch. Never sew over pins. It breaks or bends needles, and can mess up the rotation/timing of the bobbin's oscillations.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1264 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of problems you can have while using a sewing machine, but here are a few basic problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# The needle thread breaks: Check the threading of the needle as it may not be threaded properly. It is also possible that the needle needs to be changed. Learn this skill from one of the sewing volunteers or aces so that you can perform a needle change when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# The needle breaks: Make sure the needle is installed correctly and is tight.  Verify you are using the correct pressure foot. &lt;br /&gt;
# Machine does not run smoothly: Verify the hook race and bobbin holder are free from lint.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clearing a thread jam: Because the rotation of the bobbin in the bobbin case is pretty sloppy, thread jams can happen fairly frequently. Use the screwdriver keys that came with the sewing machines to open the needle plate (a.k.a. the throat plate) and access the bobbin case.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep the sewing machine clean and free from lint. Make sure to reset the space when you are done sewing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate mechanisms &lt;br /&gt;
|Semester&lt;br /&gt;
|Tech&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean machine interior&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Tech&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Change the needle&lt;br /&gt;
|As Needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Users&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Sewing_Machine&amp;diff=10253</id>
		<title>Sewing Machine</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Sewing_Machine&amp;diff=10253"/>
		<updated>2022-08-01T15:41:20Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=The Hub&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Cloth&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Sewing_machine.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Sewing Machine&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:Sewing_machine_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Sewing_machine_image.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Janome 3160 QDC&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=(???)&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1264&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=3160QDC&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Janome&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=8H2036666 / 8H2036653&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace =Mary Groom;mgroom19@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a sewing machine.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep your fingers away from moving parts.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Never place your finger under the needle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
There are currently four Janome 3160 QDC sewing machines available for use in the Maker Hub. These machines feature 60 different stitch patterns. It has automatic fabric feeding, one hand needle threader and easy to follow instructions, making it an ideal machine for first time sewers. Some of its more advanced features include buttons for lock stitch, needle up or down and automatic thread cutting. It has a add on platform that can be attached to make sewing larger materials a breeze. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oo_xT1Gfg5M}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Inst-book-3160qdc-en.pdf|Sewing Machine User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.janome.com/machines/sewing/3160qdc-b/ Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Spool - Holder used for thread.&lt;br /&gt;
* Bobbin - Cylinder or spindle holder in which thread is wound thread that comes from the bottom &lt;br /&gt;
* Presser foot - piece of metal that keeps fabric in place when sewing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
All information on these specific machines can be found in the [https://www.janome.com/siteassets/support/manuals/computer-models/inst-book-49360.pdf User Manual] and on the [https://www.janome.com/machines/sewing/3160qdc Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
How to set up the machine. This video shows a similar set up process to our machines, but be sure to compare to the manual.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMTzXsyOVoI}}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
A quick video on basic stitching techniques:&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMoJWSmZI-U}}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
YouTube is a great resource for learning new things. If you are new to sewing, try watching a few videos to get a general understanding before jumping into sewing. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Winding the bobbin&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* Once you picked the type/color of thread spool, first get some of it loose and out and secondly place it on the large spool holder (skinny tub). Then, add the spool cap. It's side will depend on the type/ style of thread spool you picked.&lt;br /&gt;
* As you follow the guide images, put the thread around the metal knob (upper thread guide). Then slide the thread through one of the holes in the bobbin and place it in the bobbin winder spindle (small metal tube) that its on the right top of the machine. Slide the bobbin winder shaft over to lock it. &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold the thread for couple seconds at the beginning as you press the foot pedal gently and slowly. Once it becomes even or uniform, you can let go of the thread and go faster with the foot pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cut the thread once you are done and place the bobbin in the bobbin case. The drop in bobbin is covered by a plastic cover that you can remove by gently pulling the hook cover release button. Drop the bobbin and wrap the thread around a the clip under the plastic cover. Then, put the cover on.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;u&amp;gt;Threading the machine&amp;lt;/u&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
* Grab onto the thread from the thread spool and run the thread through the knob and going down then up, following the image guide around and make sure it is catching all parts. At the end thread the needle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The demonstration will include several steps. Demonstrate you can safely setup the sewing machine, which includes winding the bobbin, threading the machine, and removing/replacing the needle. Finally, sew a mini pillow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Wind the bobbin and thread the machine&lt;br /&gt;
# Pick two pieces of fabric and turn them right sides together (flip them) because the raw edges will be inside the pillow which will protect them from fraying. Line the two pieces up.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sew three sides using a straight stitch.&lt;br /&gt;
# As you approach the corner, it's better to shorten the stitch length at the end of each side and stitch off the edge of the fabric. It makes a more durable corner--the bulk can be trimmed out of the corner, too, which makes a cleaner (pointy-er) corner. Press stop and wait until the machine stops. Make sure the needle is down and put the kickstand up. Rotate the piece and then put the kickstand down again and continue. Do the same thing to do the last side and press stop. Wait until the machine stops and you are done. Lift the presser foot to remove the work. Break the thread tails on the thread cutter, or clip with scissors.&lt;br /&gt;
# Press seams flat. Turn and press. Turn raw edges to the inside 1/4&amp;quot;, and press.&lt;br /&gt;
# Stuff. Sew open side shut by stitching with straight stitch close to pressed edges.&lt;br /&gt;
(Note: you can use pins to hold things in place, but you need to remove the pins as you stitch. Never sew over pins. It breaks or bends needles, and can mess up the rotation/timing of the bobbin's oscillations.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1264 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of problems you can have while using a sewing machine, but here are a few basic problems.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# The needle thread breaks: Check the threading of the needle as it may not be threaded properly. It is also possible that the needle needs to be changed. Learn this skill from one of the sewing volunteers or aces so that you can perform a needle change when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# The needle breaks: Make sure the needle is installed correctly and is tight.  Verify you are using the correct pressure foot. &lt;br /&gt;
# Machine does not run smoothly: Verify the hook race and bobbin holder are free from lint.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clearing a thread jam: Because the rotation of the bobbin in the bobbin case is pretty sloppy, thread jams can happen fairly frequently. Use the screwdriver keys that came with the sewing machines to open the needle plate (a.k.a. the throat plate) and access the bobbin case.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep the sewing machine clean and free from lint. Make sure to reset the space when you are done sewing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate mechanisms &lt;br /&gt;
|Semester&lt;br /&gt;
|Tech&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean machine interior&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Tech&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Change the needle&lt;br /&gt;
|As Needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Users&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Vinyl_Printer%2BCutter&amp;diff=10252</id>
		<title>Vinyl Printer+Cutter</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Vinyl_Printer%2BCutter&amp;diff=10252"/>
		<updated>2022-08-01T15:09:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=The Hub&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Vinyl&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Vinyl_cutter_printerIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Vinyl Printer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:roland-bn-20.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Roland BN-20 Vinyl Printer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1258&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Roland&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=BN-20&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=ADP2248&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Daniel Oppenlander;doppenlander18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
 }}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!&lt;br /&gt;
* Never turn off the main power supply. The printer must routinely empty the print head to prevent it from clogging and it cannot do so without power. &lt;br /&gt;
* The printer will automatically pause if the front door is opened and the back is open. Keep hands and clothing away from the back of the printer to prevent pinching and tangling.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Sometimes vinyl scraps can be oddly shaped and can get wrinkled up when traveling through the media guides. Make sure the piece slides through easily before printing so this does not cause issues.  &lt;br /&gt;
* It is recommended that the machine get used about once a week to prevent issues such as nozzle clogging.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vinyl Printing is the process of applying ink to vinyl sheets to produce graphics using a conventional inkjet printing method with solvent based inks. This is useful for making images into stickers, creating t-shirt graphics, and any task where the appearance of vinyl needs to be changed. Printers similar to this are standard in small scale custom clothing companies due to how easy it is to take a graphic from Adobe Illustrator to a piece of vinyl. The BN-20 packs everything into one, powerful, profit-producing package. With award-winning eco-solvent inks including metallic and white options, a range of material compatibility and integrated contour cutting, it is easily the most versatile print device in its class. The BN-20 is perfect for creating t-shirt graphics, poster prints, stickers and decals – all from the comfort of your desktop. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6J1yLQyGNE}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jgmG87EJc8}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Graphic - The image, logo, lettering or similar design that is being printed. &lt;br /&gt;
* Adobe Illustrator - The software used to set up graphics to be printed.&lt;br /&gt;
* Weeding - Removing the excess vinyl material with the tools found in the drawer below the computer. &lt;br /&gt;
* Versawoks - The software that interacts with the printer to perform a print.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Vector images - An image constructed with mathematical formulas which makes it easy to resize and perform other edits.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Raster images - An image constructed with pixels which means they cannot be resized without a change in resolution.   &lt;br /&gt;
* See below for specific machine terminology. &lt;br /&gt;
* [[File:Vinyl Printer Terms.png|none|thumb|866x866px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:BN-20 USE EN R2.pdf|Vinyl Printer+Cutter User Manual]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This user manual does a good job of visually showing the details of operating the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Almost any file type can be used as a graphic when using the vinyl printer but they all must be brought into Illustrator or Inkscape to add a cut line. Note that a vector file such as a .pdf will work the best. The cut line tells the printer to cut out the image that is being printed so it can be weeded properly before it is applied. There are many ways to create a cut line and it is up to the user to determine which process will be the easiest for their graphic. Once a cut line has been created, the file is saved as an .eps and then opened in Versaworks to finalize any print settings before performing the print. After the print is completed it should be left to dry for 20 minutes before being applied to another object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
Print out and weed a graphic of your choice. If you are indecisive use a George Fox logo from the [https://www.georgefox.edu/offices/communications/creative_srv/logos/index.html website]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Loading Material:&lt;br /&gt;
# The vinyl printer is capable of printing on any type or size of vinyl but matte vinyls will provide the best results. Sticker vinyls can be found on the vinyl cutter or in the cabinet under the computer while heat transfer vinyls can be found in the vinyl printer or in the cabinet to the right of the printer. Scrap pieces can be found in the bin next to the computer and are loaded into the printer just like a roll is.&lt;br /&gt;
# Press the secondary power button to turn on the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
# The loading process always begins by pushing the loading lever backwards. This opens the media clamps so the vinyl can be slid through the printer. &lt;br /&gt;
# The media guides are critical to keeping the vinyl in place while printing and must be adjusted to fit the width of the vinyl. Do so by sliding the left media guide to the edge of the vinyl piece. When doing this make sure the pinch roller is above a grit roller or the printer will NOT work. You may have to play with the piece orientation or width to make this possible.&lt;br /&gt;
# Feed the vinyl through the printer from the back of machine so that it passes under the media clamps. The purpose of the media clamps is to keep the edges of the vinyl from interfering with the print head so this is an important piece to remember. Feel free to reference the image below. [[File:Vinyl Clamps.png|none|thumb|463x463px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Finish the loading process by pulling the loading lever forward and making sure the door is closed. If everything is done correctly the printer will move around the material a bit and then sit quietly. If there is beeping then something is not set up correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Preparing Graphics: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, it is important to understand the differences between a vector and a raster when setting up graphics to be printed. Raster images use many colored pixels or individual building blocks to form a complete image. JPEGs, GIFs and PNGs are common raster image types. Almost all of the photos found on the web and in print catalogs are raster images. Because raster images are constructed using a fixed number of colored pixels, they can’t be dramatically resized without compromising their resolution. When stretched to fit a space they weren’t designed to fill, their pixels become visibly grainy and the image distorts. This is why altered photos may appear pixilated or low resolution. Further, because a raster image is composed of many tiny pieces it is difficult to distinguish one object from another within the image. Vector images, alternatively, allow for more flexibility. Constructed using mathematical formulas rather than individual colored blocks, vector file types such as SVG, EPS, AI and PDF* ['''why the &amp;quot;*&amp;quot; on PDF.?'''] are excellent for creating graphics that frequently require resizing. Also, each object within a vector file is assigned to a distinct layer within Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape which means an object can be moved, resized, and recolored without affecting the rest of the image. Having a graphic in vector format can be helpful because it is easy to remove the vinyl background from the graphic by adding a cut line around the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For Adobe Illustrator: &lt;br /&gt;
# Open the graphic in Illustrator 2017 and perform any desired editing. Most of the time nothing will need to be changed with the exception of converting a raster to a vector in order to add a cut line around a specific part of the graphic. To do this:&lt;br /&gt;
#*To import a normal picture into Adobe Illustrator, do [File] &amp;gt; [Place] and then click and drag to the desired size.The graphic can then be converted to vectors by clicking [Object] &amp;gt;[Flatten Transparency].&lt;br /&gt;
#*Next, click on the image to bring up several options at the top of the screen and select the [Trace] function. When doing this make sure to select the [Expand] option. This will break the image up into components which can be edited individually.&lt;br /&gt;
#*If you want to remove a part of a graphic, you would select the section you want to remove in the layers tab and then hit the trash can icon.&lt;br /&gt;
#*Note that this process works well for simple images with few colors. If the image is super complicated it will lose a lot of detail and still be difficult to work with because of the many layers that are created.&lt;br /&gt;
# In essence, a cut line is a 0.25 pt line (called a stroke in Illustrator) that is correctly colored and labeled so Versaworks can read it properly. The stroke can be added around specific layers (great for logos), or around the entire graphic (better for images). The advantage of adding a stroke around each layer is that it is possible to completely weed out vinyl between two parts of an image instead of leaving a piece of uncolored vinyl. For details on adding the cut line follow the steps below.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Select the entire graphic and add a 0.25 stroke to the graphic. The [Stroke] option can be found in the toolbar at the top of the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Click on the color options to the left of the [Stroke] option and then click on [New Swatch] on the bottom edge of the box. A window will open up.  &lt;br /&gt;
#* Name the new swatch [CutContour]. Make sure to use the exact capitalization or it will not work properly.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Change the color type from [Process Color] to [Spot Color]&lt;br /&gt;
#* Make sure that the color system is set to CMYK&lt;br /&gt;
#* Drag the magenta bar (M) all the way up to 100 and make sure the other sliders are at 0.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Hit okay. At this point there should be a bright pink line surrounding the graphic and it is ready to be printed. &lt;br /&gt;
#Now that the graphic is ready, save it as an Adobe EPS file (.EPS) so it will be able to be printed in Versaworks. &lt;br /&gt;
For Inkscape:&lt;br /&gt;
# Open or import your graphic and perform any desired edits. To create the cut line you will need to have a vector object so that a stroke can be added. If your graphic is already a vector format great, but if it is not there are two options. &lt;br /&gt;
#* First you can draw a shape around the graphic and use that as the cut line. This option works well for high quality images because there is no compromise in image detail. The downside is that it is difficult to cut out precise shapes from the graphic because it is difficult to get shapes to match up correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
#* The second option is to convert the graphic to a vector format using a bitmap. Do this by clicking [Path] &amp;gt; [Trace Bitmap] and then pressing [Okay]. There are several different options in the bitmap menu that you can experiment with to find the best results. Generally, the color option works the best. Finish the process by right clicking and selecting the [ungroup] option so that each piece of the graphic can be edited.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Create the cut line. Do this by selecting the shape that you would like to cut out, right clicking, and then selecting [Fill and Stroke]. Then add a stroke of any width (0.25 pt works well) and any color. Ideally this would be a spot color and named CutContour just like Illustrator but Inkscape does not have the same options. The downside of using a normal stroke is that the cut settings in Versaworks must be adjusted to treat the stroke as a cut line. This can be an issue if you have several adjacent shapes creating a graphic but you only want to cut around the outside of the objects. To prevent this, select the group of objects you want to cut around, make sure there are no strokes around them, and copy/paste a new copy of them next to the old ones. Select the copy and  then go to [Path] &amp;gt; [Union]. This will combine the group of objects into one shape with a continuous outline that will be cut out, but notice that the new singular object will be one color. Add a stroke to the new object and make sure to turn off the fill, then use the page coordinates to place the new object in the same place as the original group. You should be able to see the stroke surrounding your original object; this will be your cut line.&lt;br /&gt;
# Save the file as a .EPS to be imported into Versaworks&lt;br /&gt;
# In Versaworks, click on the setting symbol next to job queue A or B. &lt;br /&gt;
# Click the scissor icon on the left side of the settings window and check the [Cut all paths] option. This will treat the stroke as a cut line as it is qualified as a path. &lt;br /&gt;
Printing and Cutting:&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the material is loaded properly.&lt;br /&gt;
# Open up Roland Versaworks. This can be found on the desktop and is where the printing is done from. &lt;br /&gt;
# Open the .eps file of the desired graphic. There are two different job queues that it can be put into but it doesn't matter which one is used if you are only printing one job. Note: The graphic will appear to be a low quality image in the preview window but this is just how the software operates.&lt;br /&gt;
# Double click on the graphic to open a high definition preview of the image to check that everything is working properly. Sometimes the colors may not carry over properly so make sure they look good. If something looks off then there are some color settings that can be changed when saving the EPS file. Mainly, make sure that the cut line is indicated by a moving, dashed, red line surrounding image.&lt;br /&gt;
# You might want to change the orientation or other parameters before starting the print; to do this go to [Job] &amp;gt; [Job Settings].&lt;br /&gt;
# Finally, right click on the desired file name in the job queue and hit print.&lt;br /&gt;
# After the cut is finished turn off the machine with the secondary power button but make sure to leave the main power switch on to prevent damage and wait 20 minutes before interacting with the graphic.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Preparing for Transfers:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Depending on the type of vinyl and the application it is being used for you will have different procedures for transferring the vinyl. When working with the heat transfer vinyl, used for making shirts and such, there are two main ways to do this. First, you can print the mirror of the graphic so that no transfer paper is needed. Second, you can print it normally and then use clear transfer paper to hold everything in place during application. This second option is also used for the standard sticker vinyl and can be done by performing the following steps:&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the weeding kit to remove all unwanted sections of the graphic.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Tweezers are used to pinch and pull up unwanted sections.&lt;br /&gt;
#* The rounded dental tools are used to hold down wanted sections to prevent them being peeled off with unwanted sections.&lt;br /&gt;
# If necessary, cut the graphic off from any excess material.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use scissors to cut out a piece of clear transfer paper slightly larger than your cut-out graphic.&lt;br /&gt;
# Position it sticky side down over your graphic and use a squeegee to apply it the the graphic.&lt;br /&gt;
#* This is done starting in the center of the graphic, and smoothed with the squeegee from the center out.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once it is applied, flip the layers over and peel the backing of the vinyl material from the transfer paper.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Peel at the greatest angle possible, aim for parallel to the transfer paper so that none of the vinyl is pulled off. &lt;br /&gt;
# The graphic is then ready to be transferred onto the desired material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1258 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* The most common issue is the printer beeping when trying to load a piece of material. To fix this, make sure the pinch roller is positioned above a grit roller by finding a new piece of vinyl or rotating/cutting down the current piece.&lt;br /&gt;
* If there are globs, spots, or streaks of ink occurring during the printing process then it is time to manually clean the print head (see maintenance). &lt;br /&gt;
* There may be issues with the vinyl being difficult to weed due to pieces sticking together. The heat transfer vinyl is more difficult to weed in general so some of this may be expected but one thing that will help is to increase the cutting force before printing. By default it is set to 50 gf but feel free to increase it if weeding is excessively difficult. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like any printer, this machine will periodically need to have its ink replaced. Additionally there are other tasks that should be completed to keep the printer fully functional.These include; keeping equipment free of dirt and grime, both manually and automatically maintaining the print head, and replacing cutting blades and print head wipers. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO44grz5KnI}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
!Last Done&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean Print Area &lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Student &lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Change Ink &lt;br /&gt;
|When the low ink warning appears on the computer&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|Replace the Waste Cartridge&lt;br /&gt;
|Once the full cartridge warning appears on the computer &lt;br /&gt;
|Ace &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|Medium Print Head Cleaning &lt;br /&gt;
|Once there is nozzle clogging, ink spots, or dragged dirt &lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5&lt;br /&gt;
|Manual Print Head Cleaning &lt;br /&gt;
|If the medium cleaning does not solve the issues&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|Replace Felt Wiper &lt;br /&gt;
|When the replace wiper warning appears&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|Replace Blade &lt;br /&gt;
|When cut quality has decreased &lt;br /&gt;
|Ace &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe any dust off the machine with a paper towel and the areas shown below. [[File:Printer cleaning.png|none|thumb|594x594px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# See user manual for procedure specifics.&lt;br /&gt;
# See user manual for procedure specifics.&lt;br /&gt;
# Should be completed if prints show signs similar to the image below; see user manual for procedure specifics.[[File:Vinyl printer errors.png|none|thumb|657x657px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# See user manual for procedure specifics.&lt;br /&gt;
# See user manual for procedure specifics.&lt;br /&gt;
# See user manual for procedure specifics.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omcP7oPbHLE}}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Vinyl_Printer%2BCutter&amp;diff=10251</id>
		<title>Vinyl Printer+Cutter</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Vinyl_Printer%2BCutter&amp;diff=10251"/>
		<updated>2022-08-01T15:09:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=The Hub&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Vinyl&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Vinyl_cutter_printerIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Vinyl Printer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:roland-bn-20.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Roland BN-20 Vinyl Printer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1258&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Roland&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=BN-20&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=ADP2248&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Daniel Oppenlander;doppenlander18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
 }}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!&lt;br /&gt;
* Never turn off the main power supply. The printer must routinely empty the print head to prevent it from clogging and it cannot do so without power. &lt;br /&gt;
* The printer will automatically pause if the front door is opened and the back is open. Keep hands and clothing away from the back of the printer to prevent pinching and tangling.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Sometimes vinyl scraps can be oddly shaped and can get wrinkled up when traveling through the media guides. Make sure the piece slides through easily before printing so this does not cause issues.  &lt;br /&gt;
* It is recommended that the machine get used about once a week to prevent issues such as nozzle clogging.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Vinyl Printing is the process of applying ink to vinyl sheets to produce graphics using a conventional inkjet printing method with solvent based inks. This is useful for making images into stickers, creating t-shirt graphics, and any task where the appearance of vinyl needs to be changed. Printers similar to this are standard in small scale custom clothing companies due to how easy it is to take a graphic from Adobe Illustrator to a piece of vinyl. The BN-20 packs everything into one, powerful, profit-producing package. With award-winning eco-solvent inks including metallic and white options, a range of material compatibility and integrated contour cutting, it is easily the most versatile print device in its class. The BN-20 is perfect for creating t-shirt graphics, poster prints, stickers and decals – all from the comfort of your desktop. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6J1yLQyGNE}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jgmG87EJc8}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Graphic - The image, logo, lettering or similar design that is being printed. &lt;br /&gt;
* Adobe Illustrator - The software used to set up graphics to be printed.&lt;br /&gt;
* Weeding - Removing the excess vinyl material with the tools found in the drawer below the computer. &lt;br /&gt;
* Versawoks - The software that interacts with the printer to perform a print.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Vector images - An image constructed with mathematical formulas which makes it easy to resize and perform other edits.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Raster images - An image constructed with pixels which means they cannot be resized without a change in resolution.   &lt;br /&gt;
* See below for specific machine terminology. &lt;br /&gt;
* [[File:Vinyl Printer Terms.png|none|thumb|866x866px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:BN-20 USE EN R2.pdf|Vinyl Printer+Cutter User Manual]]&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
This user manual does a good job of visually showing the details of operating the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Almost any file type can be used as a graphic when using the vinyl printer but they all must be brought into Illustrator or Inkscape to add a cut line. Note that a vector file such as a .pdf will work the best. The cut line tells the printer to cut out the image that is being printed so it can be weeded properly before it is applied. There are many ways to create a cut line and it is up to the user to determine which process will be the easiest for their graphic. Once a cut line has been created, the file is saved as an .eps and then opened in Versaworks to finalize any print settings before performing the print. After the print is completed it should be left to dry for 20 minutes before being applied to another object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
Print out and weed a graphic of your choice. If you are indecisive use a George Fox logo from the [https://www.georgefox.edu/offices/communications/creative_srv/logos/index.html website]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Loading Material:&lt;br /&gt;
# The vinyl printer is capable of printing on any type or size of vinyl but matte vinyls will provide the best results. Sticker vinyls can be found on the vinyl cutter or in the cabinet under the computer while heat transfer vinyls can be found in the vinyl printer or in the cabinet to the right of the printer. Scrap pieces can be found in the bin next to the computer and are loaded into the printer just like a roll is.&lt;br /&gt;
# Press the secondary power button to turn on the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
# The loading process always begins by pushing the loading lever backwards. This opens the media clamps so the vinyl can be slid through the printer. &lt;br /&gt;
# The media guides are critical to keeping the vinyl in place while printing and must be adjusted to fit the width of the vinyl. Do so by sliding the left media guide to the edge of the vinyl piece. When doing this make sure the pinch roller is above a grit roller or the printer will NOT work. You may have to play with the piece orientation or width to make this possible.&lt;br /&gt;
# Feed the vinyl through the printer from the back of machine so that it passes under the media clamps. The purpose of the media clamps is to keep the edges of the vinyl from interfering with the print head so this is an important piece to remember. Feel free to reference the image below. [[File:Vinyl Clamps.png|none|thumb|463x463px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Finish the loading process by pulling the loading lever forward and making sure the door is closed. If everything is done correctly the printer will move around the material a bit and then sit quietly. If there is beeping then something is not set up correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Preparing Graphics: &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
First, it is important to understand the differences between a vector and a raster when setting up graphics to be printed. Raster images use many colored pixels or individual building blocks to form a complete image. JPEGs, GIFs and PNGs are common raster image types. Almost all of the photos found on the web and in print catalogs are raster images. Because raster images are constructed using a fixed number of colored pixels, they can’t be dramatically resized without compromising their resolution. When stretched to fit a space they weren’t designed to fill, their pixels become visibly grainy and the image distorts. This is why altered photos may appear pixilated or low resolution. Further, because a raster image is composed of many tiny pieces it is difficult to distinguish one object from another within the image. Vector images, alternatively, allow for more flexibility. Constructed using mathematical formulas rather than individual colored blocks, vector file types such as SVG, EPS, AI and PDF* ['''why the &amp;quot;*&amp;quot; on PDF.?'''] are excellent for creating graphics that frequently require resizing. Also, each object within a vector file is assigned to a distinct layer within Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape which means an object can be moved, resized, and recolored without affecting the rest of the image. Having a graphic in vector format can be helpful because it is easy to remove the vinyl background from the graphic by adding a cut line around the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For Adobe Illustrator: &lt;br /&gt;
# Open the graphic in Illustrator 2017 and perform any desired editing. Most of the time nothing will need to be changed with the exception of converting a raster to a vector in order to add a cut line around a specific part of the graphic. To do this:&lt;br /&gt;
#*To import a normal picture into Adobe Illustrator, do [File] &amp;gt; [Place] and then click and drag to the desired size.The graphic can then be converted to vectors by clicking [Object] &amp;gt;[Flatten Transparency].&lt;br /&gt;
#*Next, click on the image to bring up several options at the top of the screen and select the [Trace] function. When doing this make sure to select the [Expand] option. This will break the image up into components which can be edited individually.&lt;br /&gt;
#*If you want to remove a part of a graphic, you would select the section you want to remove in the layers tab and then hit the trash can icon.&lt;br /&gt;
#*Note that this process works well for simple images with few colors. If the image is super complicated it will lose a lot of detail and still be difficult to work with because of the many layers that are created.&lt;br /&gt;
# In essence, a cut line is a 0.25 pt line (called a stroke in Illustrator) that is correctly colored and labeled so Versaworks can read it properly. The stroke can be added around specific layers (great for logos), or around the entire graphic (better for images). The advantage of adding a stroke around each layer is that it is possible to completely weed out vinyl between two parts of an image instead of leaving a piece of uncolored vinyl. For details on adding the cut line follow the steps below.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Select the entire graphic and add a 0.25 stroke to the graphic. The [Stroke] option can be found in the toolbar at the top of the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Click on the color options to the left of the [Stroke] option and then click on [New Swatch] on the bottom edge of the box. A window will open up.  &lt;br /&gt;
#* Name the new swatch [CutContour]. Make sure to use the exact capitalization or it will not work properly.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Change the color type from [Process Color] to [Spot Color]&lt;br /&gt;
#* Make sure that the color system is set to CMYK&lt;br /&gt;
#* Drag the magenta bar (M) all the way up to 100 and make sure the other sliders are at 0.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Hit okay. At this point there should be a bright pink line surrounding the graphic and it is ready to be printed. &lt;br /&gt;
#Now that the graphic is ready, save it as an Adobe EPS file (.EPS) so it will be able to be printed in Versaworks. &lt;br /&gt;
For Inkscape:&lt;br /&gt;
# Open or import your graphic and perform any desired edits. To create the cut line you will need to have a vector object so that a stroke can be added. If your graphic is already a vector format great, but if it is not there are two options. &lt;br /&gt;
#* First you can draw a shape around the graphic and use that as the cut line. This option works well for high quality images because there is no compromise in image detail. The downside is that it is difficult to cut out precise shapes from the graphic because it is difficult to get shapes to match up correctly.&lt;br /&gt;
#* The second option is to convert the graphic to a vector format using a bitmap. Do this by clicking [Path] &amp;gt; [Trace Bitmap] and then pressing [Okay]. There are several different options in the bitmap menu that you can experiment with to find the best results. Generally, the color option works the best. Finish the process by right clicking and selecting the [ungroup] option so that each piece of the graphic can be edited.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Create the cut line. Do this by selecting the shape that you would like to cut out, right clicking, and then selecting [Fill and Stroke]. Then add a stroke of any width (0.25 pt works well) and any color. Ideally this would be a spot color and named CutContour just like Illustrator but Inkscape does not have the same options. The downside of using a normal stroke is that the cut settings in Versaworks must be adjusted to treat the stroke as a cut line. This can be an issue if you have several adjacent shapes creating a graphic but you only want to cut around the outside of the objects. To prevent this, select the group of objects you want to cut around, make sure there are no strokes around them, and copy/paste a new copy of them next to the old ones. Select the copy and  then go to [Path] &amp;gt; [Union]. This will combine the group of objects into one shape with a continuous outline that will be cut out, but notice that the new singular object will be one color. Add a stroke to the new object and make sure to turn off the fill, then use the page coordinates to place the new object in the same place as the original group. You should be able to see the stroke surrounding your original object; this will be your cut line.&lt;br /&gt;
# Save the file as a .EPS to be imported into Versaworks&lt;br /&gt;
# In Versaworks, click on the setting symbol next to job queue A or B. &lt;br /&gt;
# Click the scissor icon on the left side of the settings window and check the [Cut all paths] option. This will treat the stroke as a cut line as it is qualified as a path. &lt;br /&gt;
Printing and Cutting:&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the material is loaded properly.&lt;br /&gt;
# Open up Roland Versaworks. This can be found on the desktop and is where the printing is done from. &lt;br /&gt;
# Open the .eps file of the desired graphic. There are two different job queues that it can be put into but it doesn't matter which one is used if you are only printing one job. Note: The graphic will appear to be a low quality image in the preview window but this is just how the software operates.&lt;br /&gt;
# Double click on the graphic to open a high definition preview of the image to check that everything is working properly. Sometimes the colors may not carry over properly so make sure they look good. If something looks off then there are some color settings that can be changed when saving the EPS file. Mainly, make sure that the cut line is indicated by a moving, dashed, red line surrounding image.&lt;br /&gt;
# You might want to change the orientation or other parameters before starting the print; to do this go to [Job] &amp;gt; [Job Settings].&lt;br /&gt;
# Finally, right click on the desired file name in the job queue and hit print.&lt;br /&gt;
# After the cut is finished turn off the machine with the secondary power button but make sure to leave the main power switch on to prevent damage and wait 20 minutes before interacting with the graphic.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Preparing for Transfers:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Depending on the type of vinyl and the application it is being used for you will have different procedures for transferring the vinyl. When working with the heat transfer vinyl, used for making shirts and such, there are two main ways to do this. First, you can print the mirror of the graphic so that no transfer paper is needed. Second, you can print it normally and then use clear transfer paper to hold everything in place during application. This second option is also used for the standard sticker vinyl and can be done by performing the following steps:&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the weeding kit to remove all unwanted sections of the graphic.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Tweezers are used to pinch and pull up unwanted sections.&lt;br /&gt;
#* The rounded dental tools are used to hold down wanted sections to prevent them being peeled off with unwanted sections.&lt;br /&gt;
# If necessary, cut the graphic off from any excess material.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use scissors to cut out a piece of clear transfer paper slightly larger than your cut-out graphic.&lt;br /&gt;
# Position it sticky side down over your graphic and use a squeegee to apply it the the graphic.&lt;br /&gt;
#* This is done starting in the center of the graphic, and smoothed with the squeegee from the center out.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once it is applied, flip the layers over and peel the backing of the vinyl material from the transfer paper.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Peel at the greatest angle possible, aim for parallel to the transfer paper so that none of the vinyl is pulled off. &lt;br /&gt;
# The graphic is then ready to be transferred onto the desired material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1258 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* The most common issue is the printer beeping when trying to load a piece of material. To fix this, make sure the pinch roller is positioned above a grit roller by finding a new piece of vinyl or rotating/cutting down the current piece.&lt;br /&gt;
* If there are globs, spots, or streaks of ink occurring during the printing process then it is time to manually clean the print head (see maintenance). &lt;br /&gt;
* There may be issues with the vinyl being difficult to weed due to pieces sticking together. The heat transfer vinyl is more difficult to weed in general so some of this may be expected but one thing that will help is to increase the cutting force before printing. By default it is set to 50 gf but feel free to increase it if weeding is excessively difficult. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like any printer, this machine will periodically need to have its ink replaced. Additionally there are other tasks that should be completed to keep the printer fully functional.These include; keeping equipment free of dirt and grime, both manually and automatically maintaining the print head, and replacing cutting blades and print head wipers. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fO44grz5KnI}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
!Last Done&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean Print Area &lt;br /&gt;
|As needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Student &lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Change Ink &lt;br /&gt;
|When the low ink warning appears on the computer&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|Replace the Waste Cartridge&lt;br /&gt;
|Once the full cartridge warning appears on the computer &lt;br /&gt;
|Ace &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|4&lt;br /&gt;
|Medium Print Head Cleaning &lt;br /&gt;
|Once there is nozzle clogging, ink spots, or dragged dirt &lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|5&lt;br /&gt;
|Manual Print Head Cleaning &lt;br /&gt;
|If the medium cleaning does not solve the issues&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|6&lt;br /&gt;
|Replace Felt Wiper &lt;br /&gt;
|When the replace wiper warning appears&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|7&lt;br /&gt;
|Replace Blade &lt;br /&gt;
|When cut quality has decreased &lt;br /&gt;
|Ace &lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe any dust off the machine with a paper towel and the areas shown below. [[File:Printer cleaning.png|none|thumb|594x594px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# See user manual for procedure specifics.&lt;br /&gt;
# See user manual for procedure specifics.&lt;br /&gt;
# Should be completed if prints show signs similar to the image below; see user manual for procedure specifics.[[File:Vinyl printer errors.png|none|thumb|657x657px]]&lt;br /&gt;
# See user manual for procedure specifics.&lt;br /&gt;
# See user manual for procedure specifics.&lt;br /&gt;
# See user manual for procedure specifics.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omcP7oPbHLE}}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Wood_Lathe&amp;diff=10248</id>
		<title>Wood Lathe</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Wood_Lathe&amp;diff=10248"/>
		<updated>2022-07-19T16:32:45Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Wood Lathe.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Wood Lathe Photo.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1190&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=TeknaTool&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Nova Galaxi DVR &lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=GL5663547&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Don't wear anything that could get caught in the lathe. An example of items would be bracelets, lanyards, hair below the shoulders, etc. &lt;br /&gt;
*If you have questions make sure to ask a supervisor. The shop supervisors are skilled and are glad to give advice. &lt;br /&gt;
*The most common issue with safety is digging the chisel in too hard. If it is dug in too hard, it can get caught and cause a dangerous situation.&lt;br /&gt;
*When sanding make sure to remove the tool rest. This will eliminate a possible pinch point.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The wood lathe is a machine very similar to the metal lathe in the machine shop. It spins a piece of stock at a variable speed, and lets the turner create round objects. Unlike the metal lathe, there is not a cutter secured to the machine that is moved into place to cut. On the wood lathe, a turner will instead use long handled chisels to carve away the wood. Another difference is that for most projects, the wood is not clamped down in a found vise like the machining lathe, instead, two free-spinning center points on each side of the piece clamp the wood between them and hold it centered.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a wide variety of projects that can be done on the wood lathe, some easier than others, and all requiring a different need for skills and tools. This makes it hard sometimes to provide a common set of instructions, however, there some general safety rules and instructions for use that are used in any project on the lathe. The lathe can be fun to work with, but always remember, safety first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLuwcKNbtq8}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kunZIzNNxUY}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Spindle: The spinning portion in the drive head that rotates the work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Chisel: The hand held cutting tool used to remove material. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Tool Rest - A bar used to support the cutting tool while removing material. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Spur Center - A piece of steel that connects the drive spindle to the work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Live Center - A support piece that connects the work piece to the tail stock. The work piece is captured between the drive center and live center. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:566-Galaxi-DVR-1644-manual FINAL-Remote-II 23.July .2018.pdf|Wood Lathe User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The wood lathe is similar to the metal lathe in the Machine Shop. It can spin material at various speeds and allows the user to create cuts and round shapes. Unlike the metal lathe, there is not a built in tool holder. On the wood lathe, a turner will instead use a hand held chisel to carve away the wood. For most projects, the material on the wood lathe is held using two centers, one on each side of the work. The head stock side of the material is the driven side. When installing the spur center in hard wood you will need to saw two diagonal cuts and drill the center hole.  If working with soft wood you can use a punch to locate the center and use a mallet to drive the spur center into the work piece.  You will need to use the following chart for setting the correct turning speed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Turning Speeds.JPG|600px|thumb|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup the lathe and make a snowman ornament out of wood! The goal is to shape the wood into 3 spheres that look like a snowman, no additional accessories like carrot noses and top hats are necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the stock size you need for your project and make it square using the table saw if needed. If the material is squared up it should run true on the lathe. &lt;br /&gt;
# Mark the center of both ends using a pencil and straight edge. Use a punch to indent both ends at the center marks. This will help locate the tooling and keep the part running true.[[File:...woodLathe1.png|300x300px|thumb|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure to use the two point centers on the lathe and ensure the motor head is tight on the rails. If the tail stock or head is loose the work piece could fly out of the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the tail stock away from the head stock to provide clearance for the wood stock to fit between the head and tail stock.  Lock the tail stock and use the center punch mark to line up the live center and spur center.&lt;br /&gt;
# As you Spin the handle on the tail stock the distance between the two centers will be reduced and capture the material. Keep the center punch marks lined up with the points on the centers until it pinches the work piece. &lt;br /&gt;
# When the spur center is engaged into the material lock the quill using the red handle handle located on top of the tail stock. Now your piece is secured![[File:...woodLathe2.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
# The tool rest should be placed roughly 1/4&amp;quot;or less from the stock.[[File:...woodLathe3.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
# The tool rest should be at a height so that the tool on top of the rest will be cutting at the middle of the stock.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always rotate the spindle by hand prior to applying power. This will help prevent crashing the work piece into the tool rest.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn on the machine power switch located on the left end of the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check the speed indicated on the display prior to pressing the green &amp;quot;ON&amp;quot; button. Use the speed chart for settings. Its always better to start at a slow speed and adjust as needed. &lt;br /&gt;
# Adjust the spindle speed as needed using the black knob.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the gouge to slowly begin chipping away the wood. Make sure the chisel is pressed firmly onto the tool rest and you are holding the handle tight into your core.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slowly push the chisel into the material until it begins chipping at the wood.&lt;br /&gt;
# Start cutting down the high parts of the material or towards the middle if it’s all even. Move the chisel towards the end, chipping away little bits of wood at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
# Smooth out the wood, chipping away until you make a cylinder.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you have the cylinder, choose one end to be the head.&lt;br /&gt;
# Gradually narrow down to a cone shape, then cut away material to make the three spheres of the snowman’s body.&lt;br /&gt;
# After the shape is done, sand the piece, progressively finer grit until smooth.&lt;br /&gt;
# Take the piece off, cut any remaining material and sand the mount points smooth.&lt;br /&gt;
# Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1190 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If the lathe is sounding funny, tell the shop volunteer/supervisor so we can get that checked out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you feel like you're losing grip on the chisel while shaving it down, chances are that you are digging in too hard. Lighten up a little, and be patient. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If it doesn't seem to be cutting well, first check the tool's sharpness before digging in deeper. If the tool is not sharp, notify the shop volunteer/supervisor and grab another chisel that is sharp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The wood lathe has few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning, vacuum shavings and dust&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check tightness of bolts, lubricate with 1 or 2 drops of lightweight oil on tailstock quill threads, index pin, and Toolslide camshaft and Toolslide front camshaft bore&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate tailstock Slot with 1 or 2 drops of lightweight oil&lt;br /&gt;
|Every 6 Months&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Wood_Lathe&amp;diff=10247</id>
		<title>Wood Lathe</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Wood_Lathe&amp;diff=10247"/>
		<updated>2022-07-19T16:32:35Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Wood Lathe.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Wood Lathe Photo.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1190&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=TeknaTool&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Nova Galaxi DVR &lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=GL5663547&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Don't wear anything that could get caught in the lathe. An example of items would be bracelets, lanyards, hair below the shoulders, etc. &lt;br /&gt;
*If you have questions make sure to ask a supervisor. The shop supervisors are skilled and are glad to give advice. &lt;br /&gt;
*The most common issue with safety is digging the chisel in too hard. If it is dug in too hard, it can get caught and cause a dangerous situation.&lt;br /&gt;
*When sanding make sure to remove the tool rest. This will eliminate a possible pinch point.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The wood lathe is a machine very similar to the metal lathe in the machine shop. It spins a piece of stock at a variable speed, and lets the turner create round objects. Unlike the metal lathe, there is not a cutter secured to the machine that is moved into place to cut. On the wood lathe, a turner will instead use long handled chisels to carve away the wood. Another difference is that for most projects, the wood is not clamped down in a found vise like the machining lathe, instead, two free-spinning center points on each side of the piece clamp the wood between them and hold it centered.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a wide variety of projects that can be done on the wood lathe, some easier than others, and all requiring a different need for skills and tools. This makes it hard sometimes to provide a common set of instructions, however, there some general safety rules and instructions for use that are used in any project on the lathe. The lathe can be fun to work with, but always remember, safety first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLuwcKNbtq8}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kunZIzNNxUY}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Spindle: The spinning portion in the drive head that rotates the work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Chisel: The hand held cutting tool used to remove material. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Tool Rest - A bar used to support the cutting tool while removing material. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Spur Center - A piece of steel that connects the drive spindle to the work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Live Center - A support piece that connects the work piece to the tail stock. The work piece is captured between the drive center and live center. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:566-Galaxi-DVR-1644-manual FINAL-Remote-II 23.July .2018.pdf|Wood Lathe User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The wood lathe is similar to the metal lathe in the Machine Shop. It can spin material at various speeds and allows the user to create cuts and round shapes. Unlike the metal lathe, there is not a built in tool holder. On the wood lathe, a turner will instead use a hand held chisel to carve away the wood. For most projects, the material on the wood lathe is held using two centers, one on each side of the work. The head stock side of the material is the driven side. When installing the spur center in hard wood you will need to saw two diagonal cuts and drill the center hole.  If working with soft wood you can use a punch to locate the center and use a mallet to drive the spur center into the work piece.  You will need to use the following chart for setting the correct turning speed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Turning Speeds.JPG|600px|thumb|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup the lathe and make a snowman ornament out of wood! The goal is to shape the wood into 3 spheres that look like a snowman, no additional accessories like carrot noses and top hats are necessary.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the stock size you need for your project and make it square using the table saw if needed. If the material is squared up it should run true on the lathe. &lt;br /&gt;
# Mark the center of both ends using a pencil and straight edge. Use a punch to indent both ends at the center marks. This will help locate the tooling and keep the part running true.[[File:...woodLathe1.png|300x300px|thumb|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure to use the two point centers on the lathe and ensure the motor head is tight on the rails. If the tail stock or head is loose the work piece could fly out of the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the tail stock away from the head stock to provide clearance for the wood stock to fit between the head and tail stock.  Lock the tail stock and use the center punch mark to line up the live center and spur center.&lt;br /&gt;
# As you Spin the handle on the tail stock the distance between the two centers will be reduced and capture the material. Keep the center punch marks lined up with the points on the centers until it pinches the work piece. &lt;br /&gt;
# When the spur center is engaged into the material lock the quill using the red handle handle located on top of the tail stock. Now your piece is secured![[File:...woodLathe2.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
# The tool rest should be placed roughly 1/4&amp;quot;or less from the stock.[[File:...woodLathe3.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
# The tool rest should be at a height so that the tool on top of the rest will be cutting at the middle of the stock.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always rotate the spindle by hand prior to applying power. This will help prevent crashing the work piece into the tool rest.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn on the machine power switch located on the left end of the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check the speed indicated on the display prior to pressing the green &amp;quot;ON&amp;quot; button. Use the speed chart for settings. Its always better to start at a slow speed and adjust as needed. &lt;br /&gt;
# Adjust the spindle speed as needed using the black knob.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the gouge to slowly begin chipping away the wood. Make sure the chisel is pressed firmly onto the tool rest and you are holding the handle tight into your core.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slowly push the chisel into the material until it begins chipping at the wood.&lt;br /&gt;
# Start cutting down the high parts of the material or towards the middle if it’s all even. Move the chisel towards the end, chipping away little bits of wood at a time.&lt;br /&gt;
# Smooth out the wood, chipping away until you make a cylinder.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you have the cylinder, choose one end to be the head.&lt;br /&gt;
# Gradually narrow down to a cone shape, then cut away material to make the three spheres of the snowman’s body.&lt;br /&gt;
# After the shape is done, sand the piece, progressively finer grit until smooth.&lt;br /&gt;
# Take the piece off, cut any remaining material and sand the mount points smooth.&lt;br /&gt;
# Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1190 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If the lathe is sounding funny, tell the shop volunteer/supervisor so we can get that checked out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you feel like you're losing grip on the chisel while shaving it down, chances are that you are digging in too hard. Lighten up a little, and be patient. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If it doesn't seem to be cutting well, first check the tool's sharpness before digging in deeper. If the tool is not sharp, notify the shop volunteer/supervisor and grab another chisel that is sharp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The wood lathe has few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning, vacuum shavings and dust&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check tightness of bolts, lubricate with 1 or 2 drops of lightweight oil on tailstock quill threads, index pin, and Toolslide camshaft and Toolslide front camshaft bore&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate tailstock Slot with 1 or 2 drops of lightweight oil&lt;br /&gt;
|Every 6 Months&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Vertical_Wood_Bandsaw&amp;diff=10246</id>
		<title>Vertical Wood Bandsaw</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Vertical_Wood_Bandsaw&amp;diff=10246"/>
		<updated>2022-07-19T15:19:07Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:wood_bandsaw_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Wood bandsaw icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:wood_bandsaw_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:wood_bandsaw.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Laguna Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1194&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Laguna&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=mband 14BX220-250&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=17063967&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Don’t feed anything into the blade you don’t want cut. First off, it makes no sense and it could pull other stuff into the midst, like your own body. That isn't a good scenario, so let's prevent that.&lt;br /&gt;
* Plan out your cut before making it. Wasting material isn't a good idea, and it's more time consuming when you mess up.&lt;br /&gt;
* Don't try to cut too tight of radius. See the blade curve chart before cutting curves.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use a push stick to keep your fingers at least 3&amp;quot; from the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
* Keep hands and fingers out of the &amp;quot;danger zone&amp;quot; in front of the blade. &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold work piece firmly on the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The bandsaw is generally defined as a saw blade in the form of an endless steel band that rotates around two or more wheels. This blade is a continuous metal band with teeth on one side. As the wheels rotate, so does the band, which creates the continuous sawing action. Because the direction of the blade is always downward toward the table, there is little danger (except for special cuts) that the wood will be thrown back at the operator, which is called a kickback. For safety reasons many woodworkers prefer the bandsaw especially when cutting small pieces. The unique feature of the bandsaw is that the workpiece can be rotated around the blade creating a curve. It is the tool most often used when curves have to be cut in wood. Because the bandsaw blade is fairly thin, it can cut thick stock with a minimum of horsepower. For this reason the bandsaw is often used when valuable pieces of wood are made into a thin piece of veneer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Although the bandsaw is usually associated with cutting curves, a variety of straight cuts are easily made with the saw. In fact, it is often used to rip wood because it is much safer than a radial arm saw and also has a smaller saw cut, so it wastes less wood. This becomes very important when using expensive wood where waste must be kept to a minimum. The cut is safer because the force of the cut is straight down on the table; the work cannot be pulled back or kicked back, which sometimes happens with table or radial arm saws. The bandsaw can also cut very thick stock, which the radial arm, or table saw cannot do. The disadvantage of cutting with the bandsaw is that the surface finish of the cut is not as good as with the table or radial arm saw. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDU_2sT0etc}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...woodVerticalBandsawTerms.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:MBAND14BX110-0175_14_BX_110v&amp;amp;220v_bandsaw_06-07-2015.pdf|Vertical Wood Bandsaw User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup the saw and cut out a curved shape.  After making the curved cut demonstrate using the fence to make a straight cut. A Training Venture (TV) that uses the {{PAGENAME}} is the [[Wooden Train Whistle]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the blade guides and fence are in place. These are meant to help your cut, so it is crucial that these are in place. &lt;br /&gt;
## Instructions on adjusting can be found in the manual, but they should be fine by default. The ace should take care of such issues.&lt;br /&gt;
### Blade guides (p. 33-34)&lt;br /&gt;
### Fence (p. 35-37)&lt;br /&gt;
# Adjust the upper blade guard so that it is just clearing the material being cut&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure that the cutting teeth are facing down since the blade moves downward. Otherwise, it will not cut.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure that the blade has been properly tensioned (blade doesn’t have slack) and tracked (blade moves evenly and consistently as the wheels turn, doesn’t wander back and forth)&lt;br /&gt;
## Instructions on tensioning (p. 30) and tracking (p. 29) can be found in the manual&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the proper size and type of blade is in use&lt;br /&gt;
##[[File:...woodVerticalBandsawKerf.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Blade help is in the manual (p. 38-42)&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn the saw on. ‘1’ turns on, ‘0’ turns off. [[File:...woodVerticalBandsawOnOff.png|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
# Hold the workpiece firmly against the table, flat side down.&lt;br /&gt;
# Push material into blade at a moderate pace, using a push stick if necessary at the end of the cut.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn the machine off once the cut is complete.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the workpiece and reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1194 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# Suppose the bandsaw will not start. &lt;br /&gt;
## Check that the E-stop is fully pulled out.  &lt;br /&gt;
## Check that the electrical power cord is plugged into the power outlet.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Little maintenance is needed to upkeep the Wood Vertical Bandsaw. Refer to the table below for specific tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Blade Change&lt;br /&gt;
|When Dull&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Rotate back blade guard 15 degrees&lt;br /&gt;
|Every 8 hours of use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Scroll_Saw&amp;diff=10239</id>
		<title>Scroll Saw</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Scroll_Saw&amp;diff=10239"/>
		<updated>2022-07-08T16:06:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Scroll Saw.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1197&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Excalibur&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=EX-21&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=EX2100170900211&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a scroll saw.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep your fingers and hands away from the blade and all moving parts.&lt;br /&gt;
* If a blade breaks or gets pulled from the holder turn off the machine and tell the supervisor.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear proper safety equipment to prevent injury. &lt;br /&gt;
* Some woods can create toxic dust so be aware of what you are cutting.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold onto material firmly as the blade will try to lift the material off the table.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Use a brush to clear away chips and sawdust.&lt;br /&gt;
* Allow the blade to do the cutting at its own speed. Don't force material into the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure the material hold down is correctly adjusted. The hold down should never impede the material movement and should barely sit above the material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw Image.jpg|thumb|Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw is a small variable speed electric saw. It operates similarly to a band saw, but uses a reciprocating blade instead of a loop. This reciprocation means the blade does not cut continuously and only on the down stroke. The thinness of the blade allows it to be turned in the work piece at an almost 90 degree angle, which allows the blade to track along fine detail and sharp lines. The blade can also be removed on either the top or bottom of the reciprocating arm which allows the blade to be inserted inside of a work piece without needing an entry cut, the only thing necessary is a small hole drilled through the material. There is a blade guard and a dust blower nozzle that both need to be adjust before a piece can be cut into the material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The scroll saw is simple machine with an oscillating blade. The thin shallow blade has a very narrow kerf and allows the user to cut fine details and sharp corners.  There are a variety of blades available for various types of materials and cuts. Some of the scroll saw uses include wood puzzle making, intarsia projects, and dovetail cutting. The blade can also be removed and inserted into a drilled hole to give access to the center of an island area in material to cutout the center of an &amp;quot;O&amp;quot; for example. A paper template with a design can be glued onto the top of a work piece and traced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TU3V3MdkaJg}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:5da1c223-3df7-4236-8b34-34eb1641764a.pdf|Scroll Saw User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Material hold down  - Adjustable metal bar that sits above work piece used to help keep material from lifting off the table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Kerf - The material removed by the width of the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The scroll saw has an oscillating blade with a variable speed control.  The thin narrow blade allows you to make tight turns and produce very detailed cuts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cutting angle of the scroll saw can be changed by doing the following:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Release the locking lever by rotating it counter-clockwise.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
2. Turn the tilting handle left or right as desired.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Use the spring loaded indexing pin for common angles.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Tighten the locking lever.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup and operate the scroll saw.  You will sketch a letter on a piece of scrap using a pen or pencil. You will follow the lines with the blade and cut out the letter. Keep your fingers away from the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Obtain a piece of wood roughly 4&amp;quot; x 4&amp;quot;.  If the work piece is too small it will be difficult to hold onto. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Using a pencil or pen sketch a letter without a isolated center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Make sure to tension the blade by flipping the blade tension lever.  If the blade is not tensioned properly the blade cut will tend to drift and will make it difficult to follow the cut lines. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
4. Adjust the height of the hold down and blade guard for the thickness of material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Make sure the air blow-off nozzle is pointing at location in front of the blade. This will remove dust from the cut lines and make it easier to follow your lines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Make sure the material is clear of the blade and turn on the power switch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Using the blade speed adjustment knob you can set the blade strokes per minute. The EX-21 is capable of producing 400 to 1550 strokes per minute. Normally harder/thicker material will require a slower blade speed. Set the blade around 800 to start with.  If you notice burn marks slow down the speed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Gently feed the material into the blade while aligning your marks with the blade. Slowly follow the line with the blade and cutout around the letter. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Adjust the blade oscillation speed as needed. If the material is showing burn marks you need to slow down the speed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. When you finish cutting out the letter turn off the power switch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Detention the blade by flipping the lever above the blade. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
12. Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1197 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If the blade pulls out of the holder, stop the machine and contact the supervisor. Over tightening the blade holder will damage the threads.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several items on the machine that will need attention over time.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Every 10-15 hours of use, the blade tension lever should be lubricated.&lt;br /&gt;
* The blade may need to be squared up to the table if it gets out of adjustment.&lt;br /&gt;
* The upper arm adjustment screw will need to be adjusted if the upper arm will not stay in the upright position. &lt;br /&gt;
* If the blade slips in the holder frequently it is time to change the blade clamp thumb screw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Scroll_Saw&amp;diff=10238</id>
		<title>Scroll Saw</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Scroll_Saw&amp;diff=10238"/>
		<updated>2022-07-08T16:04:59Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Scroll Saw.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1197&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Excalibur&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=EX-21&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=EX2100170900211&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a scroll saw.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep your fingers and hands away from the blade and all moving parts.&lt;br /&gt;
* If a blade breaks or gets pulled from the holder turn off the machine and tell the supervisor.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear proper safety equipment to prevent injury. &lt;br /&gt;
* Some woods can create toxic dust so be aware of what you are cutting.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold onto material firmly as the blade will try to lift the material off the table.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Use a brush to clear away chips and sawdust.&lt;br /&gt;
* Allow the blade to do the cutting at its own speed. Don't force material into the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure the material hold down is correctly adjusted. The hold down should never impede the material movement and should barely sit above the material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw Image.jpg|thumb|Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw is a small variable speed electric saw. It operates similarly to a band saw, but uses a reciprocating blade instead of a loop. This reciprocation means the blade does not cut continuously and only on the down stroke. The thinness of the blade allows it to be turned in the work piece at an almost 90 degree angle, which allows the blade to track along fine detail and sharp lines. The blade can also be removed on either the top or bottom of the reciprocating arm which allows the blade to be inserted inside of a work piece without needing an entry cut, the only thing necessary is a small hole drilled through the material. There is a blade guard and a dust blower nozzle that both need to be adjust before a piece can be cut into the material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The scroll saw is simple machine with an oscillating blade. The thin shallow blade has a very narrow kerf and allows the user to cut fine details and sharp corners.  There are a variety of blades available for various types of materials and cuts. Some of the scroll saw uses include wood puzzle making, intarsia projects, and dovetail cutting. The blade can also be removed and inserted into a drilled hole to give access to the center of an island area in material to cutout the center of an &amp;quot;O&amp;quot; for example. A paper template with a design can be glued onto the top of a work piece and traced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TU3V3MdkaJg}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:5da1c223-3df7-4236-8b34-34eb1641764a.pdf|Scroll Saw User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Material hold down  - Adjustable metal bar that sits above work piece used to help keep material from lifting off the table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Kerf - The material removed by the width of the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The scroll saw has an oscillating blade with a variable speed control.  The thin narrow blade allows you to make tight turns and produce very detailed cuts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cutting angle of the scroll saw can be changed by doing the following:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Release the locking lever by rotating it counter-clockwise.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
2. Turn the tilting handle left or right as desired.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Use the spring loaded indexing pin for common angles.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Tighten the locking lever.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup and operate the scroll saw.  You will sketch a letter on a piece of scrap using a pen or pencil. You will follow the lines with the blade and cut out the letter. Keep your fingers away from the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Obtain a piece of wood roughly 4&amp;quot; x 4&amp;quot;.  If the work piece is too small it will be difficult to hold onto. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Using a pencil or pen sketch a letter without a isolated center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Make sure to tension the blade by flipping the blade tension lever.  If the blade is not tensioned properly the blade cut will tend to drift and will make it difficult to follow the cut lines. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
4. Adjust the height of the hold down and blade guard for the thickness of material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Make sure the air blow-off nozzle is pointing at location in front of the blade. This will remove dust from the cut lines and make it easier to follow your lines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Make sure the material is clear of the blade and turn on the power switch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Using the blade speed adjustment knob you can set the blade strokes per minute. The EX-21 is capable of producing 400 to 1550 strokes per minute. Normally harder/thicker material will require a slower blade speed. Set the blade around 800 to start with.  If you notice burn marks slow down the speed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Gently feed the material into the blade while aligning your marks with the blade. Slowly follow the line with the blade and cutout around the letter. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Adjust the blade oscillation speed as needed. If the material is showing burn marks you need to slow down the speed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. When you finish cutting out the letter turn off the power switch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Detention the blade by flipping the lever above the blade. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
12. Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1197 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If the blade pulls out of the holder, stop the machine and contact the supervisor. Over tightening the blade holder will damage the threads.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several items on the machine that will need attention over time.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Every 10-15 hours of use, the blade tension lever should be lubricated.&lt;br /&gt;
* The blade may need to be squared up to the table if it gets out of adjustment.&lt;br /&gt;
* The upper arm adjustment screw will need to be adjusted if the upper arm will not stay in the upright position. &lt;br /&gt;
* If the blade slips in the holder frequently it is time to change the blade clamp thumb screw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Scroll_Saw&amp;diff=10237</id>
		<title>Scroll Saw</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Scroll_Saw&amp;diff=10237"/>
		<updated>2022-07-08T16:04:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Scroll Saw.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1197&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Excalibur&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=EX-21&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=EX2100170900211&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a scroll saw.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep your fingers and hands away from the blade and all moving parts.&lt;br /&gt;
* If a blade breaks or gets pulled from the holder turn off the machine and tell the supervisor.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear proper safety equipment to prevent injury. &lt;br /&gt;
* Some woods can create toxic dust so be aware of what you are cutting.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold onto material firmly as the blade will try to lift the material off the table.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Use a brush to clear away chips and sawdust.&lt;br /&gt;
* Allow the blade to do the cutting at its own speed. Don't force material into the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure the material hold down is correctly adjusted. The hold down should never impede the material movement and should barely sit above the material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw Image.jpg|thumb|Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw is a small variable speed electric saw. It operates similarly to a band saw, but uses a reciprocating blade instead of a loop. This reciprocation means the blade does not cut continuously and only on the down stroke. The thinness of the blade allows it to be turned in the work piece at an almost 90 degree angle, which allows the blade to track along fine detail and sharp lines. The blade can also be removed on either the top or bottom of the reciprocating arm which allows the blade to be inserted inside of a work piece without needing an entry cut, the only thing necessary is a small hole drilled through the material. There is a blade guard and a dust blower nozzle that both need to be adjust before a piece can be cut into the material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The scroll saw is simple machine with an oscillating blade. The thin shallow blade has a very narrow kerf and allows the user to cut fine details and sharp corners.  There are a variety of blades available for various types of materials and cuts. Some of the scroll saw uses include wood puzzle making, intarsia projects, and dovetail cutting. The blade can also be removed and inserted into a drilled hole to give access to the center of an island area in material to cutout the center of an &amp;quot;O&amp;quot; for example. A paper template with a design can be glued onto the top of a work piece and traced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TU3V3MdkaJg}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:5da1c223-3df7-4236-8b34-34eb1641764a.pdf|Scroll Saw User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Material hold down  - Adjustable metal bar that sits above work piece used to help keep material from lifting off the table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Kerf - The material removed by the width of the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The scroll saw has an oscillating blade with a variable speed control.  The thin narrow blade allows you to make tight turns and produce very detailed cuts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cutting angle of the scroll saw can be changed by doing the following:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Release the locking lever by rotating it counter-clockwise.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
2. Turn the tilting handle left or right as desired.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Use the spring loaded indexing pin for common angles.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Tighten the locking lever.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup and operate the scroll saw.  You will sketch a letter on a piece of scrap using a pen or pencil. You will follow the lines with the blade and cut out the letter. Keep your fingers away from the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Obtain a piece of wood roughly 4&amp;quot; x 4&amp;quot;.  If the work piece is too small it will be difficult to hold onto. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Using a pencil or pen sketch a letter without a isolated center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Make sure to tension the blade by flipping the blade tension lever.  If the blade is not tensioned properly the blade cut will tend to drift and will make it difficult to follow the cut lines. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
4. Adjust the height of the hold down and blade guard for the thickness of material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Make sure the air blow-off nozzle is pointing at location in front of the blade. This will remove dust from the cut lines and make it easier to follow your lines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Make sure the material is clear of the blade and turn on the power switch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Using the blade speed adjustment knob you can set the blade strokes per minute. The EX-21 is capable of producing 400 to 1550 strokes per minute. Normally harder/thicker material will require a slower blade speed. Set the blade around 800 to start with.  If you notice burn marks slow down the speed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Gently feed the material into the blade while aligning your marks with the blade. Slowly follow the line with the blade and cutout around the letter. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Adjust the blade oscillation speed as needed. If the material is showing burn marks you need to slow down the speed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. When you finish cutting out the letter turn off the power switch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Detention the blade by flipping the lever above the blade. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
12. Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1197 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If the blade pulls out of the holder, stop the machine and contact the supervisor. Over tightening the blade holder will damage the threads.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several items on the machine that will need attention over time.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Every 10-15 hours of use, the blade tension lever should be lubricated.&lt;br /&gt;
* The blade may need to be squared up to the table if it gets out of adjustment.&lt;br /&gt;
* The upper arm adjustment screw will need to be adjusted if the upper arm will not stay in the upright position. &lt;br /&gt;
* If the blade slips in the holder frequently it is time to change the blade clamp thumb screw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Scroll_Saw&amp;diff=10236</id>
		<title>Scroll Saw</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Scroll_Saw&amp;diff=10236"/>
		<updated>2022-07-08T16:03:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Scroll Saw.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1197&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Excalibur&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=EX-21&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=EX2100170900211&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a scroll saw.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Keep your fingers and hands away from the blade and all moving parts.&lt;br /&gt;
* If a blade breaks or gets pulled from the holder turn off the machine and tell the supervisor.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear proper safety equipment to prevent injury. &lt;br /&gt;
* Some woods can create toxic dust so be aware of what you are cutting.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold onto material firmly as the blade will try to lift the material off the table.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Use a brush to clear away chips and sawdust.&lt;br /&gt;
* Allow the blade to do the cutting at its own speed. Don't force material into the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure the material hold down is correctly adjusted. The hold down should never impede the material movement and should barely sit above the material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Excalibur EX21 Scroll Saw Image.jpg|thumb|Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw]]&lt;br /&gt;
The Excalibur EX-21 Scroll Saw is a small variable speed electric saw. It operates similarly to a band saw, but uses a reciprocating blade instead of a loop. This reciprocation means the blade does not cut continuously and only on the down stroke. The thinness of the blade allows it to be turned in the work piece at an almost 90 degree angle, which allows the blade to track along fine detail and sharp lines. The blade can also be removed on either the top or bottom of the reciprocating arm which allows the blade to be inserted inside of a work piece without needing an entry cut, the only thing necessary is a small hole drilled through the material. There is a blade guard and a dust blower nozzle that both need to be adjust before a piece can be cut into the material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The scroll saw is simple machine with an oscillating blade. The thin shallow blade has a very narrow kerf and allows the user to cut fine details and sharp corners.  There are a variety of blades available for various types of materials and cuts. Some of the scroll saw uses include wood puzzle making, intarsia projects, and dovetail cutting. The blade can also be removed and inserted into a drilled hole to give access to the center of an island area in material to cutout the center of an &amp;quot;O&amp;quot; for example. A paper template with a design can be glued onto the top of a work piece and traced. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TU3V3MdkaJg}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:5da1c223-3df7-4236-8b34-34eb1641764a.pdf|Scroll Saw User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Material hold down  - Adjustable metal bar that sits above work piece used to help keep material from lifting off the table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Kerf - The material removed by the width of the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The scroll saw has an oscillating blade with a variable speed control.  The thin narrow blade allows you to make tight turns and produce very detailed cuts.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The cutting angle of the scroll saw can be changed by doing the following:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Release the locking lever by rotating it counter-clockwise.&lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
2. Turn the tilting handle left or right as desired.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Use the spring loaded indexing pin for common angles.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Tighten the locking lever.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup and operate the scroll saw.  You will sketch a letter on a piece of scrap using a pen or pencil. You will follow the lines with the blade and cut out the letter. Keep your fingers away from the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Obtain a piece of wood roughly 4&amp;quot; x 4&amp;quot;.  If the work piece is too small it will be difficult to hold onto. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Using a pencil or pen sketch a letter without a isolated center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Make sure to tension the blade by flipping the blade tension lever.  If the blade is not tensioned properly the blade cut will tend to drift and will make it difficult to follow the cut lines. &lt;br /&gt;
 &lt;br /&gt;
4. Adjust the height of the hold down and blade guard for the thickness of material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Make sure the air blow-off nozzle is pointing at location in front of the blade. This will remove dust from the cut lines and make it easier to follow your lines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Make sure the material is clear of the blade and turn on the power switch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Using the blade speed adjustment knob you can set the blade strokes per minute. The EX-21 is capable of producing 400 to 1550 strokes per minute. Normally harder/thicker material will require a slower blade speed. Set the blade around 800 to start with.  If you notice burn marks slow down the speed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Gently feed the material into the blade while aligning your marks with the blade. Slowly follow the line with the blade and cutout around the letter. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Adjust the blade oscillation speed as needed. If the material is showing burn marks you need to slow down the speed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. When you finish cutting out the letter turn off the power switch. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Detention the blade by flipping the lever above the blade. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
12. Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1197 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If the blade pulls out of the holder, stop the machine and contact the supervisor. Over tightening the blade holder will damage the threads.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are several items on the machine that will need attention over time.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Every 10-15 hours of use, the blade tension lever should be lubricated.&lt;br /&gt;
* The blade may need to be squared up to the table if it gets out of adjustment.&lt;br /&gt;
* The upper arm adjustment screw will need to be adjusted if the upper arm will not stay in the upright position. &lt;br /&gt;
* If the blade slips in the holder frequently it is time to change the blade clamp thumb screw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Power_Carver&amp;diff=10235</id>
		<title>Power Carver</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Power_Carver&amp;diff=10235"/>
		<updated>2022-07-08T16:03:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File: Power_carverIcon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Foredom.jpg &lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1275&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Foredom&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=SR - K5200 Deluxe&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=I180359&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Remember that a carving tool that can remove wood can also remove flesh. &lt;br /&gt;
* Always unplug the motor before changing out tools. Keep your hands away from spinning cutters. &lt;br /&gt;
* It's good practice to carve along the grain and try to avoid removing material too quickly, which can cause the tool to slip. &lt;br /&gt;
* When working with larger tooling make sure to clamp your project down. &lt;br /&gt;
* Avoid loose clothing or hair, which can get caught in moving bits.&lt;br /&gt;
* Power carving can produce flying particles, so it's important to protect your eyes.&lt;br /&gt;
* The dust produced is not good for your lungs so avoid breathing the dust and make sure the air filters are turned on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The power carver consists of hand piece that is driven by a motor. The motor is connected via flexible shaft that allows easy movement of the hand piece without the weight of the motor. There are many cutting tools available for use with the hand piece. Some of the uses include sanding, carving, and cutting.  The most common uses are creating custom designs in wood and polishing small projects.    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pkkz5ZkdZHk}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Hand-Piece-''' The part of the power carver that attaches to the cutter.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
'''Flex Shaft-''' The flexible cable that transfers the motor power to the hand piece. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:K_Manual.pdf|Power Carver User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
The Foredom uses a stand that is connected to the table.  You will need to clip the motor hanger bracket to the clip on the stand. This will allow the stand to carry the weight of the motor. The preferred hand piece will need to be selected and installed as well as the desired tool.  The tools are captivated by the collet located inside the hand piece.  To lock the shaft find the hole located on the side of the hand piece.  Install the locking pin into the hole so the shaft can't turn.  You will now be able to use the wrench to loosen the collet.  Install the tool and reverse the process to lock the tool in place. Make sure to remove the locking pin before trying to run the motor.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4tdNuw4dWA}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You will need to safely demonstrate setting up the Foredom.  Connect the motor bracket to the hanger and change out a tool. Place the pedal in a comfortable position and plug in the power cord. Explain the dangers involved in operating this tool. Select the direction switch to indicate the proper rotation direction. Using a scrap piece of wood carve a simple design.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Basic Setup'''&lt;br /&gt;
1. Connect the motor bracket to the stand clip if not already done. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Remove and install the desired handpiece if needed. See video for removal and installation. Make sure the shaft key is properly aligned before installation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Change the tool if needed. Use the locking pin and wrench to tighten and looses the collet.  Make sure to remove the locking pin when done.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Place the variable speed foot pedal at a comfortable position on the floor. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Plug in the power cord.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Set the motor direction switch for proper rotation direction. Most tools should be used in the forward direction. Ask if you are unsure about the motor direction.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Make sure you have a good grip on the handle before pressing the foot pedal as the cutting tool will begin to spin. The speed of the tool is proportional to the travel of the foot pedal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1275 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a tool is not cutting make sure it is turning the correct direction. Running a tool backwards will cause burning and damage to the tool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep the motor and flex shaft clean. Wipe down or vacuum as needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Grease Shaft&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|50 Hours&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10222</id>
		<title>Planer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10222"/>
		<updated>2022-06-30T16:43:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* General Procedure */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:planer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Planer icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:planer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:planer.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Planer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Powermatic&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=209HH-3&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=1706209HH5185&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' allow your hands/fingers to enter the infeed opening. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' turn on the Thickness Planer with stock inside the infeed opening. No good. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' bend down to look into a planer while it is running. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' attempt to repair the machine or remove any panels. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' put your finger in a knot hole while operating the Thickness Planer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Powermatic planer contains a 5HP motor and 20&amp;quot; planing capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 5&amp;quot; dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. &amp;lt;ref&amp;gt;Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Powermatic].&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch on each pass. The anti-kickback fingers and pressure bar are located in close proximity to the cutterhead for an exceptional finish. The solid cast iron base, table and head are designed for production. The 2-speed oil bath gearbox transmits full power to feed rollers and facilitates fast speed changes at 24 and 31 FPM. The gearbox can be changed to 4-speed with the included gear to run lower speeds of 16 and 20 FPM. The corrugated infeed and fine groove outfeed rollers ensure a smooth feed. The precision ground and polished cast iron table rides on four steel columns giving it plenty of support for the larger workpiece. Heavy cast iron extension wings ensure a flat, smooth cut.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcGqyujNYlM}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRK0yW4CcWs}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...Planer.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:1791296 man EN.pdf|Planer User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Vendor Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch per pass. It is super useful for making smooth surfaces without taking off too much material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The demonstration for this machine will be to plane both sides of scrap piece of wood from the Wood Shop. It would be preferable to use a piece of wood that is warped in some way to understand the process of planning each side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Connect one of the dust collectors (shown below) on so we can keep the place clean. &amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg|Small Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg|Large Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the material is free of all foreign objects, loose knots, and splits&lt;br /&gt;
# Before turning on the machine, loosen the table lock nuts on the side of the machine.  slide the material into the machine and slowly adjust the table height by rotating the handwheel until the material barely touches.&lt;br /&gt;
## The key is to take off very little material on the first pass and adjust as needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove piece and adjust wheel to trim desired amount off of work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to remove more than 1/16” per pass (one turn). Do not over load the motor. Multiple passes result in less tear-out and are easier on the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always take your measurements at the thickest part of the board and adjust planer to match this thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do not attempt to run stock less than 12” in length through the planer.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Turn the Thickness Planer on and wait until it has reached full speed before starting to plane your stock.&lt;br /&gt;
# Only plane one piece of stock at a time. Stand to the side of the stock and feed it into the infeed opening. Let go of the stock when the roller takes hold of it. Never put your finger in the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always plane with the grain, never perpendicular to grain (i.e., feed boards lengthwise, not width-wise).&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to force feed the planer; always allow stock to move through under the force of the feed roller only.&lt;br /&gt;
# Stock will sometimes “hang” (or stop moving forward). If the material stops feeding power off the machine and wait for the cutter to stop spinning before attempting to remove the board. &lt;br /&gt;
## The feed control may have slipped. Simply push it all the way to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
## The table is too high (not adjusted to the proper height). This should NOT happen since you’re supposed to measure the stock and then make table adjustment according to your needs.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to feed stock into the out feed side. The motor turns one direction and will try to spit it right back at you.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be careful not to let your fingers become pinched between stock and table. It will hurt a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# If stock is real long, get help holding it while you feed it into the in-feed opening. Ensure your helper is standing to the side of the stock and NOT behind it.&lt;br /&gt;
# Keep your full attention on the stock, the controls, and where your hands/fingers are while you plane.&lt;br /&gt;
# After half of the stock has entered the planer, walk around back and hold the end up as the rest of the stock comes out of the machine. Do not pull the stock out; simply allow the machine to push it toward you. Adjust the pressure bar lever if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do NOT plane to a thickness less than 1/4”.&lt;br /&gt;
# Listen to the sound the planer makes as it’s operating. If something doesn’t sound right, turn the Thickness Planer off and notify the shop aid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Planing thickness is the only adjustment that should be made while the planer running. The machine should be off before making any other adjustments.&lt;br /&gt;
# When finished working with the Thickness Planer, turn the machine off and remain in the work zone until it stops moving.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean off the infeed table so that the next users’ stock will be able to make contact directly with the table instead of being raised up slightly by the chips left after you’re finished planing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn off and disconnect the dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer seems to be missing a spot on your board, then it is likely that you have a chipped blade. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer does not seem to be cutting smoothly, then it is likely that the blade is getting dull. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General and specific tasks need to take place to maintain machinery. Specific tasks are listed below '''''Note: In [Specific Maintenance Tasks below, 5th item has redundant terms &amp;quot;use if rusted&amp;quot;, not sure how to edit table - CZ]'''''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Work area around machine marked off clearly&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Non-skid floor strips in area where operator normally stands&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean with dust collectors and remove gum/pitch with with oven cleaner&lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate appropriate places with a good grade non-hardening grease&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean Table surface. If rusted, use If rusted, use paste mixture of household ammonia, a good commercial detergent and 000 steel wool. Wash surface down with hot, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly. Coat surface with talcum powder, rubbing briskly into surface with a clean blackboard eraser.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check blade condition, should be sharp and free of nicks or grooves&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check belt condition. Replace as needed. Dress with belt dressing. Check belt tension&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check motor for loose wiring and sawdust congestion, pulleys tight and in line.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check bearings. Replace any bad or suspect bearings immediately.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check leveling of extension tables with main table.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...planerMaintainance.png|none|thumb|610x610px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10221</id>
		<title>Planer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10221"/>
		<updated>2022-06-30T16:15:59Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* General Procedure */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:planer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Planer icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:planer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:planer.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Planer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Powermatic&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=209HH-3&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=1706209HH5185&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' allow your hands/fingers to enter the infeed opening. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' turn on the Thickness Planer with stock inside the infeed opening. No good. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' bend down to look into a planer while it is running. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' attempt to repair the machine or remove any panels. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' put your finger in a knot hole while operating the Thickness Planer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Powermatic planer contains a 5HP motor and 20&amp;quot; planing capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 5&amp;quot; dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. &amp;lt;ref&amp;gt;Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Powermatic].&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch on each pass. The anti-kickback fingers and pressure bar are located in close proximity to the cutterhead for an exceptional finish. The solid cast iron base, table and head are designed for production. The 2-speed oil bath gearbox transmits full power to feed rollers and facilitates fast speed changes at 24 and 31 FPM. The gearbox can be changed to 4-speed with the included gear to run lower speeds of 16 and 20 FPM. The corrugated infeed and fine groove outfeed rollers ensure a smooth feed. The precision ground and polished cast iron table rides on four steel columns giving it plenty of support for the larger workpiece. Heavy cast iron extension wings ensure a flat, smooth cut.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcGqyujNYlM}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRK0yW4CcWs}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...Planer.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:1791296 man EN.pdf|Planer User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Vendor Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch per pass. It is super useful for making smooth surfaces without taking off too much material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The demonstration for this machine will be to plane both sides of scrap piece of wood from the Wood Shop. It would be preferable to use a piece of wood that is warped in some way to understand the process of planning each side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Connect one of the dust collectors (shown below) on so we can keep the place clean. &amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg|Small Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg|Large Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the material is free of all foreign objects, loose knots, and splits&lt;br /&gt;
# Before turning on the machine, loosen the table lock nuts on the side of the machine.  slide the material into the machine and slowly adjust the table height by rotating the handwheel until the material barely touches.&lt;br /&gt;
# The key is to take off very little material on the first pass and adjust as needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove piece and adjust wheel to trim desired amount off of work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to remove more than 1/16” per pass (one turn). Do not over load the motor. Multiple passes result in less tear-out and are easier on the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always take your measurements at the thickest part of the board and adjust planer to match this thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do not attempt to run stock less than 12” in length through the planer.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Turn the Thickness Planer on and wait until it has reached full speed before starting to plane your stock.&lt;br /&gt;
# Only plane one piece of stock at a time. Stand to the side of the stock and feed it into the infeed opening. Let go of the stock when the roller takes hold of it. Never put your finger in the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always plane with the grain, never perpendicular to grain (i.e., feed boards lengthwise, not width-wise).&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to force feed the planer; always allow stock to move through under the force of the feed roller only.&lt;br /&gt;
# Stock will sometimes “hang” (or stop moving forward). If the material stops feeding power off the machine and wait for the cutter to stop spinning before attempting to remove the board. &lt;br /&gt;
## The feed control may have slipped. Simply push it all the way to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
## The table is too high (not adjusted to the proper height). This should NOT happen since you’re supposed to measure the stock and then make table adjustment according to your needs.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to feed stock into the out feed side. The motor turns one direction and will try to spit it right back at you.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be careful not to let your fingers become pinched between stock and table. It will hurt a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# If stock is real long, get help holding it while you feed it into the in-feed opening. Ensure your helper is standing to the side of the stock and NOT behind it.&lt;br /&gt;
# Keep your full attention on the stock, the controls, and where your hands/fingers are while you plane.&lt;br /&gt;
# After half of the stock has entered the planer, walk around back and hold the end up as the rest of the stock comes out of the machine. Do not pull the stock out; simply allow the machine to push it toward you. Adjust the pressure bar lever if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do NOT plane to a thickness less than 1/4”.&lt;br /&gt;
# Listen to the sound the planer makes as it’s operating. If something doesn’t sound right, turn the Thickness Planer off and notify the shop aid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Planing thickness is the only adjustment that should be made while the planer running. The machine should be off before making any other adjustments.&lt;br /&gt;
# When finished working with the Thickness Planer, turn the machine off and remain in the work zone until it stops moving.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean off the infeed table so that the next users’ stock will be able to make contact directly with the table instead of being raised up slightly by the chips left after you’re finished planing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn off and disconnect the dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer seems to be missing a spot on your board, then it is likely that you have a chipped blade. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer does not seem to be cutting smoothly, then it is likely that the blade is getting dull. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General and specific tasks need to take place to maintain machinery. Specific tasks are listed below '''''Note: In [Specific Maintenance Tasks below, 5th item has redundant terms &amp;quot;use if rusted&amp;quot;, not sure how to edit table - CZ]'''''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Work area around machine marked off clearly&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Non-skid floor strips in area where operator normally stands&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean with dust collectors and remove gum/pitch with with oven cleaner&lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate appropriate places with a good grade non-hardening grease&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean Table surface. If rusted, use If rusted, use paste mixture of household ammonia, a good commercial detergent and 000 steel wool. Wash surface down with hot, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly. Coat surface with talcum powder, rubbing briskly into surface with a clean blackboard eraser.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check blade condition, should be sharp and free of nicks or grooves&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check belt condition. Replace as needed. Dress with belt dressing. Check belt tension&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check motor for loose wiring and sawdust congestion, pulleys tight and in line.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check bearings. Replace any bad or suspect bearings immediately.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check leveling of extension tables with main table.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...planerMaintainance.png|none|thumb|610x610px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10220</id>
		<title>Planer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10220"/>
		<updated>2022-06-30T16:15:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* General Procedure */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:planer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Planer icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:planer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:planer.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Planer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Powermatic&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=209HH-3&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=1706209HH5185&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' allow your hands/fingers to enter the infeed opening. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' turn on the Thickness Planer with stock inside the infeed opening. No good. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' bend down to look into a planer while it is running. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' attempt to repair the machine or remove any panels. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' put your finger in a knot hole while operating the Thickness Planer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Powermatic planer contains a 5HP motor and 20&amp;quot; planing capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 5&amp;quot; dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. &amp;lt;ref&amp;gt;Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Powermatic].&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch on each pass. The anti-kickback fingers and pressure bar are located in close proximity to the cutterhead for an exceptional finish. The solid cast iron base, table and head are designed for production. The 2-speed oil bath gearbox transmits full power to feed rollers and facilitates fast speed changes at 24 and 31 FPM. The gearbox can be changed to 4-speed with the included gear to run lower speeds of 16 and 20 FPM. The corrugated infeed and fine groove outfeed rollers ensure a smooth feed. The precision ground and polished cast iron table rides on four steel columns giving it plenty of support for the larger workpiece. Heavy cast iron extension wings ensure a flat, smooth cut.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcGqyujNYlM}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRK0yW4CcWs}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...Planer.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:1791296 man EN.pdf|Planer User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Vendor Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch per pass. It is super useful for making smooth surfaces without taking off too much material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The demonstration for this machine will be to plane both sides of scrap piece of wood from the Wood Shop. It would be preferable to use a piece of wood that is warped in some way to understand the process of planning each side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Connect one of the dust collectors (shown below) on so we can keep the place clean. &amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg|Small Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg|Large Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the material is free of all foreign objects, loose knots, and splits&lt;br /&gt;
# Before turning on the machine, loosen the table lock nuts on the side of the machine.  slide the material into the machine and slowly adjust the table height by rotating the handwheel until the material barely touches.&lt;br /&gt;
## The key is to take off very little material on the first pass and adjust as needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove piece and adjust wheel to trim desired amount off of work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to remove more than 1/16” per pass (one turn). Do not over load the motor. Multiple passes result in less tear-out and are easier on the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always take your measurements at the thickest part of the board and adjust planer to match this thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do not attempt to run stock less than 12” in length through the planer.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Turn the Thickness Planer on and wait until it has reached full speed before starting to plane your stock.&lt;br /&gt;
# Only plane one piece of stock at a time. Stand to the side of the stock and feed it into the infeed opening. Let go of the stock when the roller takes hold of it. Never put your finger in the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always plane with the grain, never perpendicular to grain (i.e., feed boards lengthwise, not width-wise).&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to force feed the planer; always allow stock to move through under the force of the feed roller only.&lt;br /&gt;
# Stock will sometimes “hang” (or stop moving forward). If the material stops feeding power off the machine and wait for the cutter to stop spinning before attempting to remove the board. &lt;br /&gt;
## The feed control may have slipped. Simply push it all the way to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
## The table is too high (not adjusted to the proper height). This should NOT happen since you’re supposed to measure the stock and then make table adjustment according to your needs.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to feed stock into the out feed side. The motor turns one direction and will try to spit it right back at you.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be careful not to let your fingers become pinched between stock and table. It will hurt a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# If stock is real long, get help holding it while you feed it into the in-feed opening. Ensure your helper is standing to the side of the stock and NOT behind it.&lt;br /&gt;
# Keep your full attention on the stock, the controls, and where your hands/fingers are while you plane.&lt;br /&gt;
# After half of the stock has entered the planer, walk around back and hold the end up as the rest of the stock comes out of the machine. Do not pull the stock out; simply allow the machine to push it toward you. Adjust the pressure bar lever if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do NOT plane to a thickness less than 1/4”.&lt;br /&gt;
# Listen to the sound the planer makes as it’s operating. If something doesn’t sound right, turn the Thickness Planer off and notify the shop aid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Planing thickness is the only adjustment that should be made while the planer running. The machine should be off before making any other adjustments.&lt;br /&gt;
# When finished working with the Thickness Planer, turn the machine off and remain in the work zone until it stops moving.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean off the infeed table so that the next users’ stock will be able to make contact directly with the table instead of being raised up slightly by the chips left after you’re finished planing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn off and disconnect the dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer seems to be missing a spot on your board, then it is likely that you have a chipped blade. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer does not seem to be cutting smoothly, then it is likely that the blade is getting dull. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General and specific tasks need to take place to maintain machinery. Specific tasks are listed below '''''Note: In [Specific Maintenance Tasks below, 5th item has redundant terms &amp;quot;use if rusted&amp;quot;, not sure how to edit table - CZ]'''''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Work area around machine marked off clearly&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Non-skid floor strips in area where operator normally stands&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean with dust collectors and remove gum/pitch with with oven cleaner&lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate appropriate places with a good grade non-hardening grease&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean Table surface. If rusted, use If rusted, use paste mixture of household ammonia, a good commercial detergent and 000 steel wool. Wash surface down with hot, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly. Coat surface with talcum powder, rubbing briskly into surface with a clean blackboard eraser.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check blade condition, should be sharp and free of nicks or grooves&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check belt condition. Replace as needed. Dress with belt dressing. Check belt tension&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check motor for loose wiring and sawdust congestion, pulleys tight and in line.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check bearings. Replace any bad or suspect bearings immediately.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check leveling of extension tables with main table.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...planerMaintainance.png|none|thumb|610x610px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10219</id>
		<title>Planer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10219"/>
		<updated>2022-06-30T16:15:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* General Procedure */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:planer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Planer icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:planer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:planer.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Planer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Powermatic&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=209HH-3&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=1706209HH5185&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' allow your hands/fingers to enter the infeed opening. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' turn on the Thickness Planer with stock inside the infeed opening. No good. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' bend down to look into a planer while it is running. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' attempt to repair the machine or remove any panels. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' put your finger in a knot hole while operating the Thickness Planer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Powermatic planer contains a 5HP motor and 20&amp;quot; planing capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 5&amp;quot; dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. &amp;lt;ref&amp;gt;Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Powermatic].&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch on each pass. The anti-kickback fingers and pressure bar are located in close proximity to the cutterhead for an exceptional finish. The solid cast iron base, table and head are designed for production. The 2-speed oil bath gearbox transmits full power to feed rollers and facilitates fast speed changes at 24 and 31 FPM. The gearbox can be changed to 4-speed with the included gear to run lower speeds of 16 and 20 FPM. The corrugated infeed and fine groove outfeed rollers ensure a smooth feed. The precision ground and polished cast iron table rides on four steel columns giving it plenty of support for the larger workpiece. Heavy cast iron extension wings ensure a flat, smooth cut.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcGqyujNYlM}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRK0yW4CcWs}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...Planer.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:1791296 man EN.pdf|Planer User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Vendor Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch per pass. It is super useful for making smooth surfaces without taking off too much material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The demonstration for this machine will be to plane both sides of scrap piece of wood from the Wood Shop. It would be preferable to use a piece of wood that is warped in some way to understand the process of planning each side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Connect one of the dust collectors (shown below) on so we can keep the place clean. &amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg|Small Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg|Large Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the material is free of all foreign objects, loose knots, and splits&lt;br /&gt;
# Before turning on the machine, loosen the table lock nuts on the side of the machine.  slide the material into the machine and slowly adjust the table height by rotating the handwheel until the material barely touches.&lt;br /&gt;
# The key is to take off very little material on the first pass and adjust as needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove piece and adjust wheel to trim desired amount off of work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to remove more than 1/16” per pass (one turn). Do not over load the motor. Multiple passes result in less tear-out and are easier on the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always take your measurements at the thickest part of the board and adjust planer to match this thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do not attempt to run stock less than 12” in length through the planer.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Turn the Thickness Planer on and wait until it has reached full speed before starting to plane your stock.&lt;br /&gt;
# Only plane one piece of stock at a time. Stand to the side of the stock and feed it into the infeed opening. Let go of the stock when the roller takes hold of it. Never put your finger in the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always plane with the grain, never perpendicular to grain (i.e., feed boards lengthwise, not width-wise).&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to force feed the planer; always allow stock to move through under the force of the feed roller only.&lt;br /&gt;
# Stock will sometimes “hang” (or stop moving forward). If the material stops feeding power off the machine and wait for the cutter to stop spinning before attempting to remove the board. &lt;br /&gt;
## The feed control may have slipped. Simply push it all the way to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
## The table is too high (not adjusted to the proper height). This should NOT happen since you’re supposed to measure the stock and then make table adjustment according to your needs.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to feed stock into the out feed side. The motor turns one direction and will try to spit it right back at you.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be careful not to let your fingers become pinched between stock and table. It will hurt a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# If stock is real long, get help holding it while you feed it into the in-feed opening. Ensure your helper is standing to the side of the stock and NOT behind it.&lt;br /&gt;
# Keep your full attention on the stock, the controls, and where your hands/fingers are while you plane.&lt;br /&gt;
# After half of the stock has entered the planer, walk around back and hold the end up as the rest of the stock comes out of the machine. Do not pull the stock out; simply allow the machine to push it toward you. Adjust the pressure bar lever if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do NOT plane to a thickness less than 1/4”.&lt;br /&gt;
# Listen to the sound the planer makes as it’s operating. If something doesn’t sound right, turn the Thickness Planer off and notify the shop aid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Planing thickness is the only adjustment that should be made while the planer running. The machine should be off before making any other adjustments.&lt;br /&gt;
# When finished working with the Thickness Planer, turn the machine off and remain in the work zone until it stops moving.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean off the infeed table so that the next users’ stock will be able to make contact directly with the table instead of being raised up slightly by the chips left after you’re finished planing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn off and disconnect the dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer seems to be missing a spot on your board, then it is likely that you have a chipped blade. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer does not seem to be cutting smoothly, then it is likely that the blade is getting dull. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General and specific tasks need to take place to maintain machinery. Specific tasks are listed below '''''Note: In [Specific Maintenance Tasks below, 5th item has redundant terms &amp;quot;use if rusted&amp;quot;, not sure how to edit table - CZ]'''''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Work area around machine marked off clearly&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Non-skid floor strips in area where operator normally stands&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean with dust collectors and remove gum/pitch with with oven cleaner&lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate appropriate places with a good grade non-hardening grease&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean Table surface. If rusted, use If rusted, use paste mixture of household ammonia, a good commercial detergent and 000 steel wool. Wash surface down with hot, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly. Coat surface with talcum powder, rubbing briskly into surface with a clean blackboard eraser.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check blade condition, should be sharp and free of nicks or grooves&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check belt condition. Replace as needed. Dress with belt dressing. Check belt tension&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check motor for loose wiring and sawdust congestion, pulleys tight and in line.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check bearings. Replace any bad or suspect bearings immediately.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check leveling of extension tables with main table.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...planerMaintainance.png|none|thumb|610x610px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10218</id>
		<title>Planer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10218"/>
		<updated>2022-06-30T00:46:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:planer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Planer icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:planer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:planer.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Planer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Powermatic&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=209HH-3&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=1706209HH5185&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' allow your hands/fingers to enter the infeed opening. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' turn on the Thickness Planer with stock inside the infeed opening. No good. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' bend down to look into a planer while it is running. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' attempt to repair the machine or remove any panels. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' put your finger in a knot hole while operating the Thickness Planer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Powermatic planer contains a 5HP motor and 20&amp;quot; planing capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 5&amp;quot; dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. &amp;lt;ref&amp;gt;Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Powermatic].&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch on each pass. The anti-kickback fingers and pressure bar are located in close proximity to the cutterhead for an exceptional finish. The solid cast iron base, table and head are designed for production. The 2-speed oil bath gearbox transmits full power to feed rollers and facilitates fast speed changes at 24 and 31 FPM. The gearbox can be changed to 4-speed with the included gear to run lower speeds of 16 and 20 FPM. The corrugated infeed and fine groove outfeed rollers ensure a smooth feed. The precision ground and polished cast iron table rides on four steel columns giving it plenty of support for the larger workpiece. Heavy cast iron extension wings ensure a flat, smooth cut.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcGqyujNYlM}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRK0yW4CcWs}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...Planer.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:1791296 man EN.pdf|Planer User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Vendor Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch per pass. It is super useful for making smooth surfaces without taking off too much material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The demonstration for this machine will be to plane both sides of scrap piece of wood from the Wood Shop. It would be preferable to use a piece of wood that is warped in some way to understand the process of planning each side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Connect one of the dust collectors (shown below) on so we can keep the place clean. &amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg|Small Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg|Large Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the material is free of all foreign objects, loose knots, and splits&lt;br /&gt;
# Before turning on the machine, loosen the table lock nuts on the side of the machine.  slide the material into the machine and slowly adjust the table height by rotating the handwheel until the material &lt;br /&gt;
# The key is to take off very little material on the first pass and adjust as needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove piece and adjust wheel to trim desired amount off of work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to remove more than 1/16” per pass (one turn). Do not over load the motor. Multiple passes result in less tear-out and are easier on the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always take your measurements at the thickest part of the board and adjust planer to match this thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do not attempt to run stock less than 12” in length through the planer.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Turn the Thickness Planer on and wait until it has reached full speed before starting to plane your stock.&lt;br /&gt;
# Only plane one piece of stock at a time. Stand to the side of the stock and feed it into the infeed opening. Let go of the stock when the roller takes hold of it. Never put your finger in the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always plane with the grain, never perpendicular to grain (i.e., feed boards lengthwise, not width-wise).&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to force feed the planer; always allow stock to move through under the force of the feed roller only.&lt;br /&gt;
# Stock will sometimes “hang” (or stop moving forward). If the material stops feeding power off the machine and wait for the cutter to stop spinning before attempting to remove the board. &lt;br /&gt;
## The feed control may have slipped. Simply push it all the way to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
## The table is too high (not adjusted to the proper height). This should NOT happen since you’re supposed to measure the stock and then make table adjustment according to your needs.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to feed stock into the out feed side. The motor turns one direction and will try to spit it right back at you.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be careful not to let your fingers become pinched between stock and table. It will hurt a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# If stock is real long, get help holding it while you feed it into the in-feed opening. Ensure your helper is standing to the side of the stock and NOT behind it.&lt;br /&gt;
# Keep your full attention on the stock, the controls, and where your hands/fingers are while you plane.&lt;br /&gt;
# After half of the stock has entered the planer, walk around back and hold the end up as the rest of the stock comes out of the machine. Do not pull the stock out; simply allow the machine to push it toward you. Adjust the pressure bar lever if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do NOT plane to a thickness less than 1/4”.&lt;br /&gt;
# Listen to the sound the planer makes as it’s operating. If something doesn’t sound right, turn the Thickness Planer off and notify the shop aid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Planing thickness is the only adjustment that should be made while the planer running. The machine should be off before making any other adjustments.&lt;br /&gt;
# When finished working with the Thickness Planer, turn the machine off and remain in the work zone until it stops moving.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean off the infeed table so that the next users’ stock will be able to make contact directly with the table instead of being raised up slightly by the chips left after you’re finished planing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn off and disconnect the dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer seems to be missing a spot on your board, then it is likely that you have a chipped blade. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer does not seem to be cutting smoothly, then it is likely that the blade is getting dull. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General and specific tasks need to take place to maintain machinery. Specific tasks are listed below '''''Note: In [Specific Maintenance Tasks below, 5th item has redundant terms &amp;quot;use if rusted&amp;quot;, not sure how to edit table - CZ]'''''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Work area around machine marked off clearly&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Non-skid floor strips in area where operator normally stands&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean with dust collectors and remove gum/pitch with with oven cleaner&lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate appropriate places with a good grade non-hardening grease&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean Table surface. If rusted, use If rusted, use paste mixture of household ammonia, a good commercial detergent and 000 steel wool. Wash surface down with hot, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly. Coat surface with talcum powder, rubbing briskly into surface with a clean blackboard eraser.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check blade condition, should be sharp and free of nicks or grooves&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check belt condition. Replace as needed. Dress with belt dressing. Check belt tension&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check motor for loose wiring and sawdust congestion, pulleys tight and in line.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check bearings. Replace any bad or suspect bearings immediately.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check leveling of extension tables with main table.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...planerMaintainance.png|none|thumb|610x610px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10217</id>
		<title>Planer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10217"/>
		<updated>2022-06-30T00:46:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:planer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Planer icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:planer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:planer.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Planer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Powermatic&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=209HH-3&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=1706209HH5185&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' allow your hands/fingers to enter the infeed opening. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' turn on the Thickness Planer with stock inside the infeed opening. No good. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' bend down to look into a planer while it is running. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' attempt to repair the machine or remove any panels. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' put your finger in a knot hole while operating the Thickness Planer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Powermatic planer contains a 5HP motor and 20&amp;quot; planing capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 5&amp;quot; dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. &amp;lt;ref&amp;gt;Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Powermatic].&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch on each pass. The anti-kickback fingers and pressure bar are located in close proximity to the cutterhead for an exceptional finish. The solid cast iron base, table and head are designed for production. The 2-speed oil bath gearbox transmits full power to feed rollers and facilitates fast speed changes at 24 and 31 FPM. The gearbox can be changed to 4-speed with the included gear to run lower speeds of 16 and 20 FPM. The corrugated infeed and fine groove outfeed rollers ensure a smooth feed. The precision ground and polished cast iron table rides on four steel columns giving it plenty of support for the larger workpiece. Heavy cast iron extension wings ensure a flat, smooth cut.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcGqyujNYlM}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRK0yW4CcWs}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...Planer.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:1791296 man EN.pdf|Planer User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Vendor Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch per pass. It is super useful for making smooth surfaces without taking off too much material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The demonstration for this machine will be to plane both sides of scrap piece of wood from the Wood Shop. It would be preferable to use a piece of wood that is warped in some way to understand the process of planning each side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Connect one of the dust collectors (shown below) on so we can keep the place clean. &amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg|Small Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg|Large Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the material is free of all foreign objects, loose knots, and splits&lt;br /&gt;
# Before turning on the machine, loosen the table lock nuts on the side of the machine.  slide the material into the machine and slowly adjust the table height by rotating the handwheel until the material &lt;br /&gt;
# The key is to take off very little material on the first pass and adjust as needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove piece and adjust wheel to trim desired amount off of work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to remove more than 1/16” per pass (one turn). Do not over load the motor. Multiple passes result in less tear-out and are easier on the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always take your measurements at the thickest part of the board and adjust planer to match this thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do not attempt to run stock less than 12” in length through the planer.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Turn the Thickness Planer on and wait until it has reached full speed before starting to plane your stock.&lt;br /&gt;
# Only plane one piece of stock at a time. Stand to the side of the stock and feed it into the infeed opening. Let go of the stock when the roller takes hold of it. Never put your finger in the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always plane with the grain, never perpendicular to grain (i.e., feed boards lengthwise, not width-wise).&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to force feed the planer; always allow stock to move through under the force of the feed roller only.&lt;br /&gt;
# Stock will sometimes “hang” (or stop moving forward). If the material stops feeding power off the machine and wait for the cutter to stop spinning before attempting to remove the board. &lt;br /&gt;
## The feed control may have slipped. Simply push it all the way to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
## The table is too high (not adjusted to the proper height). This should NOT happen since you’re supposed to measure the stock and then make table adjustment according to your needs.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to feed stock into the out feed side. The motor turns one direction and will try to spit it right back at you.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be careful not to let your fingers become pinched between stock and table. It will hurt a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# If stock is real long, get help holding it while you feed it into the in-feed opening. Ensure your helper is standing to the side of the stock and NOT behind it.&lt;br /&gt;
# Keep your full attention on the stock, the controls, and where your hands/fingers are while you plane.&lt;br /&gt;
# After half of the stock has entered the planer, walk around back and hold the end up as the rest of the stock comes out of the machine. Do not pull the stock out; simply allow the machine to push it toward you. Adjust the pressure bar lever if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do NOT plane to a thickness less than 1/4”.&lt;br /&gt;
# Listen to the sound the planer makes as it’s operating. If something doesn’t sound right, turn the Thickness Planer off and notify the shop aid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Planing thickness is the only adjustment that should be made while the planer running. The machine should be off before making any other adjustments.&lt;br /&gt;
# When finished working with the Thickness Planer, turn the machine off and remain in the work zone until it stops moving.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean off the infeed table so that the next users’ stock will be able to make contact directly with the table instead of being raised up slightly by the chips left after you’re finished planing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn off and disconnect the dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer seems to be missing a spot on your board, then it is likely that you have a chipped blade. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer does not seem to be cutting smoothly, then it is likely that the blade is getting dull. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General and specific tasks need to take place to maintain machinery. Specific tasks are listed below '''''Note: In [Specific Maintenance Tasks below, 5th item has redundant terms &amp;quot;use if rusted&amp;quot;, not sure how to edit table - CZ]'''''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Work area around machine marked off clearly&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Non-skid floor strips in area where operator normally stands&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean with dust collectors and remove gum/pitch with with oven cleaner&lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate appropriate places with a good grade non-hardening grease&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean Table surface. If rusted, use If rusted, use paste mixture of household ammonia, a good commercial detergent and 000 steel wool. Wash surface down with hot, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly. Coat surface with talcum powder, rubbing briskly into surface with a clean blackboard eraser.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check blade condition, should be sharp and free of nicks or grooves&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check belt condition. Replace as needed. Dress with belt dressing. Check belt tension&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check motor for loose wiring and sawdust congestion, pulleys tight and in line.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check bearings. Replace any bad or suspect bearings immediately.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check leveling of extension tables with main table.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...planerMaintainance.png|none|thumb|610x610px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10216</id>
		<title>Planer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10216"/>
		<updated>2022-06-30T00:39:23Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:planer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Planer icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:planer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:planer.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Planer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Powermatic&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=209HH-3&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=1706209HH5185&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' allow your hands/fingers to enter the infeed opening. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' turn on the Thickness Planer with stock inside the infeed opening. No good. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' bend down to look into a planer while it is running. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' attempt to repair the machine or remove any panels. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' put your finger in a knot hole while operating the Thickness Planer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Powermatic planer contains a 5HP motor and 20&amp;quot; planing capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 5&amp;quot; dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. &amp;lt;ref&amp;gt;Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Powermatic].&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch on each pass. The anti-kickback fingers and pressure bar are located in close proximity to the cutterhead for an exceptional finish. The solid cast iron base, table and head are designed for production. The 2-speed oil bath gearbox transmits full power to feed rollers and facilitates fast speed changes at 24 and 31 FPM. The gearbox can be changed to 4-speed with the included gear to run lower speeds of 16 and 20 FPM. The corrugated infeed and fine groove outfeed rollers ensure a smooth feed. The precision ground and polished cast iron table rides on four steel columns giving it plenty of support for the larger workpiece. Heavy cast iron extension wings ensure a flat, smooth cut.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcGqyujNYlM}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRK0yW4CcWs}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...Planer.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:1791296 man EN.pdf|Planer User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Vendor Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch per pass. It is super useful for making smooth surfaces without taking off too much material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The demonstration for this machine will be to plane both sides of scrap piece of wood from the Wood Shop. It would be preferable to use a piece of wood that is warped in some way to understand the process of planning each side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Connect one of the dust collectors (shown below) on so we can keep the place clean. &amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg|Small Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg|Large Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the material is free of all foreign objects, loose knots, and splits&lt;br /&gt;
# Before turning on the machine, loosen the table lock nuts on the side of the machine.  slide the material into the machine and slowly adjust the table height by rotating the handwheel until the material &lt;br /&gt;
# The key is to take off very little material on the first pass and adjust as needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove piece and adjust wheel to trim desired amount off of work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to remove more than 1/16” per pass (one turn). Do not over load the motor. Multiple passes result in less tear-out and are easier on the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always take your measurements at the thickest part of the board and adjust planer to match this thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do not attempt to run stock less than 12” in length through the planer.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Turn the Thickness Planer on and wait until it has reached full speed before starting to plane your stock.&lt;br /&gt;
# Only plane one piece of stock at a time. Stand to the side of the stock and feed it into the infeed opening. Let go of the stock when the roller takes hold of it. Never put your finger in the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always plane with the grain, never perpendicular to grain (i.e., feed boards lengthwise, not width-wise).&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to force feed the planer; always allow stock to move through under the force of the feed roller only.&lt;br /&gt;
# Stock will sometimes “hang” (or stop moving forward). If the material stops feeding power off the machine and wait for the cutter to stop spinning before attempting to remove the board. &lt;br /&gt;
## The feed control may have slipped. Simply push it all the way to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
## The table is too high (not adjusted to the proper height). This should NOT happen since you’re supposed to measure the stock and then make table adjustment according to your needs.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to feed stock into the out feed side. The motor turns one direction and will try to spit it right back at you.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be careful not to let your fingers become pinched between stock and table. It will hurt a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# If stock is real long, get help holding it while you feed it into the in-feed opening. Ensure your helper is standing to the side of the stock and NOT behind it.&lt;br /&gt;
# Keep your full attention on the stock, the controls, and where your hands/fingers are while you plane.&lt;br /&gt;
# After half of the stock has entered the planer, walk around back and hold the end up as the rest of the stock comes out of the machine. Do not pull the stock out; simply allow the machine to push it toward you. Adjust the pressure bar lever if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do NOT plane to a thickness less than 1/4”.&lt;br /&gt;
# Listen to the sound the planer makes as it’s operating. If something doesn’t sound right, turn the Thickness Planer off and notify the shop aid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Planing thickness is the only adjustment that should be made while the planer running. The machine should be off before making any other adjustments.&lt;br /&gt;
# When finished working with the Thickness Planer, turn the machine off and remain in the work zone until it stops moving.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean off the infeed table so that the next users’ stock will be able to make contact directly with the table instead of being raised up slightly by the chips left after you’re finished planing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn off and disconnect the dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer seems to be missing a spot on your board, then it is likely that you have a chipped blade. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer does not seem to be cutting smoothly, then it is likely that the blade is getting dull. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General and specific tasks need to take place to maintain machinery. Specific tasks are listed below '''''Note: In [Specific Maintenance Tasks below, 5th item has redundant terms &amp;quot;use if rusted&amp;quot;, not sure how to edit table - CZ]'''''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Work area around machine marked off clearly&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Non-skid floor strips in area where operator normally stands&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean with dust collectors and remove gum/pitch with with oven cleaner&lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate appropriate places with a good grade non-hardening grease&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean Table surface. If rusted, use If rusted, use paste mixture of household ammonia, a good commercial detergent and 000 steel wool. Wash surface down with hot, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly. Coat surface with talcum powder, rubbing briskly into surface with a clean blackboard eraser.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check blade condition, should be sharp and free of nicks or grooves&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check belt condition. Replace as needed. Dress with belt dressing. Check belt tension&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check motor for loose wiring and sawdust congestion, pulleys tight and in line.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check bearings. Replace any bad or suspect bearings immediately.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check leveling of extension tables with main table.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...planerMaintainance.png|none|thumb|610x610px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10215</id>
		<title>Planer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Planer&amp;diff=10215"/>
		<updated>2022-06-30T00:38:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:planer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Planer icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:planer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:planer.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Planer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Powermatic&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=209HH-3&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=1706209HH5185&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Makerhub@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' allow your hands/fingers to enter the infeed opening. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' turn on the Thickness Planer with stock inside the infeed opening. No good. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' bend down to look into a planer while it is running. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' attempt to repair the machine or remove any panels. &lt;br /&gt;
* '''NEVER''' put your finger in a knot hole while operating the Thickness Planer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Powermatic planer contains a 5HP motor and 20&amp;quot; planing capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 5&amp;quot; dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. &amp;lt;ref&amp;gt;Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Powermatic].&amp;lt;/ref&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch on each pass. The anti-kickback fingers and pressure bar are located in close proximity to the cutterhead for an exceptional finish. The solid cast iron base, table and head are designed for production. The 2-speed oil bath gearbox transmits full power to feed rollers and facilitates fast speed changes at 24 and 31 FPM. The gearbox can be changed to 4-speed with the included gear to run lower speeds of 16 and 20 FPM. The corrugated infeed and fine groove outfeed rollers ensure a smooth feed. The precision ground and polished cast iron table rides on four steel columns giving it plenty of support for the larger workpiece. Heavy cast iron extension wings ensure a flat, smooth cut.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcGqyujNYlM}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRK0yW4CcWs}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...Planer.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:1791296 man EN.pdf|Planer User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Vendor Website]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch per pass. It is super useful for making smooth surfaces without taking off too much material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The demonstration for this machine will be to plane both sides of scrap piece of wood from the Wood Shop. It would be preferable to use a piece of wood that is warped in some way to understand the process of planning each side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Connect one of the dust collectors (shown below) on so we can keep the place clean. &amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg|Small Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg|Large Dust Collector&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the material is free of all foreign objects, loose knots, and splits&lt;br /&gt;
# Before turning on the machine, loosen the table lock nuts on the side of the machine.  slide the material into the machine and slowly adjust the table height by rotating the handwheel until the material &lt;br /&gt;
# The key is to take off very little material on the first pass and adjust as needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove piece and adjust wheel to trim desired amount off of work piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to remove more than 1/16” per pass (one turn). Do not over load the motor. Multiple passes result in less tear-out and are easier on the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always take your measurements at the thickest part of the board and adjust planer to match this thickness.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do not attempt to run stock less than 12” in length through the planer.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Turn the Thickness Planer on and wait until it has reached full speed before starting to plane your stock.&lt;br /&gt;
# Only plane one piece of stock at a time. Stand to the side of the stock and feed it into the infeed opening. Let go of the stock when the roller takes hold of it. Never put your finger in the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always plane with the grain, never perpendicular to grain (i.e., feed boards lengthwise, not width-wise).&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to force feed the planer; always allow stock to move through under the force of the feed roller only.&lt;br /&gt;
# Stock will sometimes “hang” (or stop moving forward). If the material stops feeding power off the machine and wait for the cutter to stop spinning before attempting to remove the board. &lt;br /&gt;
## The feed control may have slipped. Simply push it all the way to the right.&lt;br /&gt;
## The table is too high (not adjusted to the proper height). This should NOT happen since you’re supposed to measure the stock and then make table adjustment according to your needs.&lt;br /&gt;
# Never attempt to feed stock into the out feed side. The motor turns one direction and will try to spit it right back at you.&lt;br /&gt;
# Be careful not to let your fingers become pinched between stock and table. It will hurt a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# If stock is real long, get help holding it while you feed it into the in-feed opening. Ensure your helper is standing to the side of the stock and NOT behind it.&lt;br /&gt;
# Keep your full attention on the stock, the controls, and where your hands/fingers are while you plane.&lt;br /&gt;
# After half of the stock has entered the planer, walk around back and hold the end up as the rest of the stock comes out of the machine. Do not pull the stock out; simply allow the machine to push it toward you. Adjust the pressure bar lever if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Do NOT plane to a thickness less than 1/4”.&lt;br /&gt;
# Listen to the sound the planer makes as it’s operating. If something doesn’t sound right, turn the Thickness Planer off and notify the shop aid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Planing thickness is the only adjustment that should be made while the planer running. The machine should be off before making any other adjustments.&lt;br /&gt;
# When finished working with the Thickness Planer, turn the machine off and remain in the work zone until it stops moving.&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean off the infeed table so that the next users’ stock will be able to make contact directly with the table instead of being raised up slightly by the chips left after you’re finished planing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn off and disconnect the dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1245 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer seems to be missing a spot on your board, then it is likely that you have a chipped blade. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
# If the Planer does not seem to be cutting smoothly, then it is likely that the blade is getting dull. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General and specific tasks need to take place to maintain machinery. Specific tasks are listed below '''''Note: In [Specific Maintenance Tasks below, 5th item has redundant terms &amp;quot;use if rusted&amp;quot;, not sure how to edit table - CZ]'''''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Work area around machine marked off clearly&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Non-skid floor strips in area where operator normally stands&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean with dust collectors and remove gum/pitch with with oven cleaner&lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Lubricate appropriate places with a good grade non-hardening grease&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean Table surface. If rusted, use If rusted, use paste mixture of household ammonia, a good commercial detergent and 000 steel wool. Wash surface down with hot, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly. Coat surface with talcum powder, rubbing briskly into surface with a clean blackboard eraser.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student and Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check blade condition, should be sharp and free of nicks or grooves&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check belt condition. Replace as needed. Dress with belt dressing. Check belt tension&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check motor for loose wiring and sawdust congestion, pulleys tight and in line.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check bearings. Replace any bad or suspect bearings immediately.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Check leveling of extension tables with main table.&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:...planerMaintainance.png|none|thumb|610x610px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Oscillating_Spindle_Sander&amp;diff=10214</id>
		<title>Oscillating Spindle Sander</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Oscillating_Spindle_Sander&amp;diff=10214"/>
		<updated>2022-06-29T20:17:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Spindle Sander.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Spindle Sander.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Oscillating Spindle Sander&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1204&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Grizzly Industrial&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=G1071&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=1709690&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a spindle sander.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Never make contact with the rotating spindle. The sand paper is very aggressive and could cause serious injury.     &lt;br /&gt;
* The spindle is rotating at a high rate of speed and can grab your work piece.     &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table.  This will help prevent the material from getting pulled out of your hands. If material catches on the spindle it can starts rotating quickly and create a dangerous situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Grizzly vertical spindle sander is for sanding curved surfaces square to the table.  The machine contains a 1HP motor and has 10 different sanding spindles ranging from 1/4&amp;quot; to 4&amp;quot; in diameter.  The cast iron table has an opening that provides clearance for the spindles to oscillate up and down. The oscillating action will give you a smooth sanded surface at 1725 RPM. The 4&amp;quot; dust port connects easily to any dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Exi3raTmaNQ}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Table Insert-''' A metal plate that covers the opening between the spindle and table.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Sanding Spindle-''' A metal shaft with a rubber section that supports a sand paper sleeve.  These come in a variety of sizes. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:G1071_m.pdf|Oscillating Spindle Sander User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The spindle sander is normally used for sanding inside corners. There are various spindles that range from 1/4&amp;quot; to 4&amp;quot;. If you need to change out the spindle ask the supervisor on shift for assistance. Make sure the spindle taper is clean before installing a new spindle.  Only hand tighten the spindles during installation so they can be removed.  The spindle also oscillates up and down as it rotates to produce a smooth finish. The machine has an on/off power switch located on the control panel. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not sand materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the drum and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Do not sand plastics, rubber, metal or any other materials other than natural woods.    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your material looks good, the next step is to make sure you have the appropriate spindle installed. You will also want to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the rear of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the sander to help keep the dust out of the air. As you sand, it is imperative that you keep the material firmly against the table and gently push the material into the spindle to make the surface perpendicular to the table. Hold firmly onto the material as it could get pulled out of your hands. If you are sanding the inside of a circle and the material pulls out of your hands do not attempt to grab the spinning part. If you can safely reach the power switch shut off the machine and wait for the part to stop moving. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the sander is set up you are ready to work. Turn on the sander and gently push the material into the drum, making sure to keep your hands a safe distance from the spindle. Do not force material into the drum.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup the spindle sander and create a smooth radius. Remember to use the appropriate drum size. You will need to draw a guide line to follow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Inside Radius'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Ensure that the material you are sanding is at least 4&amp;quot; long and no nails or foreign objects.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Sketch a radius onto your material using pencil.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Make sure the spindle in the machine fits the radius you have drawn.  If the spindle needs to be changed ask the supervisor on shift for help.     &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Connect the dust collector to the port on the back of the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Turn on the power switch on the front of the sander and the dust collector.  Make sure nothing is making contact with sanding drum.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Gently feed the material into the sanding drum while firmly holding onto the material.  Keep your fingers away from the spinning drum.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Carefully remove material as you keep an eye on the reference line. Slowly remove material up to the line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. When all of the material has been removed take the work piece off the table. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. Turn off the power switch for the sander and the dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Make sure to reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1204 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*As sanding sleeves are used they will &amp;quot;gum up&amp;quot; with saw dust. If not removed, the saw dust will harden and reduce the life of the sanding sleeve.  As needed, a abrasive cleaner should be used on the sleeves.&lt;br /&gt;
*The taper end of the sanding spindles should be lubricated with a light oil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Oscillating_Spindle_Sander&amp;diff=10213</id>
		<title>Oscillating Spindle Sander</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Oscillating_Spindle_Sander&amp;diff=10213"/>
		<updated>2022-06-29T20:17:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Spindle Sander.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Spindle Sander.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Oscillating Spindle Sander&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1204&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Grizzly Industrial&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=G1071&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=1709690&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a spindle sander.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Never make contact with the rotating spindle. The sand paper is very aggressive and could cause serious injury.     &lt;br /&gt;
* The spindle is rotating at a high rate of speed and can grab your work piece.     &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table.  This will help prevent the material from getting pulled out of your hands. If material catches on the spindle it can starts rotating quickly and create a dangerous situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Grizzly vertical spindle sander is for sanding curved surfaces square to the table.  The machine contains a 1HP motor and has 10 different sanding spindles ranging from 1/4&amp;quot; to 4&amp;quot; in diameter.  The cast iron table has an opening that provides clearance for the spindles to oscillate up and down. The oscillating action will give you a smooth sanded surface at 1725 RPM. The 4&amp;quot; dust port connects easily to any dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Exi3raTmaNQ}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Table Insert-''' A metal plate that covers the opening between the spindle and table.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Sanding Spindle-''' A metal shaft with a rubber section that supports a sand paper sleeve.  These come in a variety of sizes. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:G1071_m.pdf|Oscillating Spindle Sander User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The spindle sander is normally used for sanding inside corners. There are various spindles that range from 1/4&amp;quot; to 4&amp;quot;. If you need to change out the spindle ask the supervisor on shift for assistance. Make sure the spindle taper is clean before installing a new spindle.  Only hand tighten the spindles during installation so they can be removed.  The spindle also oscillates up and down as it rotates to produce a smooth finish. The machine has an on/off power switch located on the control panel. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not sand materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the drum and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Do not sand plastics, rubber, metal or any other materials other than natural woods.    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your material looks good, the next step is to make sure you have the appropriate spindle installed. You will also want to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the rear of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the sander to help keep the dust out of the air. As you sand, it is imperative that you keep the material firmly against the table and gently push the material into the spindle to make the surface perpendicular to the table. Hold firmly onto the material as it could get pulled out of your hands. If you are sanding the inside of a circle and the material pulls out of your hands do not attempt to grab the spinning part. If you can safely reach the power switch shut off the machine and wait for the part to stop moving. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the sander is set up you are ready to work. Turn on the sander and gently push the material into the drum, making sure to keep your hands a safe distance from the spindle. Do not force material into the drum.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup the spindle sander and create a smooth radius. Remember to use the appropriate drum size. You will need to draw a guide line to follow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Inside Radius'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Ensure that the material you are sanding is at least 4&amp;quot; long and no nails or foreign objects.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Sketch a radius onto your material using pencil.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Make sure the spindle in the machine fits the radius you have drawn.  If the spindle needs to be changed ask the supervisor on shift for help.     &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Connect the dust collector to the port on the back of the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Turn on the power switch on the front of the sander and the dust collector.  Make sure nothing is making contact with sanding drum.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Gently feed the material into the sanding drum while firmly holding onto the material.  Keep your fingers away from the spinning drum.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Carefully remove material as you keep an eye on the reference line. Slowly remove material up to the line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. When all of the material has been removed take the work piece off the table. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. Turn off the power switch for the sander and the dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Make sure to reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1204 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*As sanding sleeves are used they will &amp;quot;gum up&amp;quot; with saw dust. If not removed, the saw dust will harden and reduce the life of the sanding sleeve.  As needed, a abrasive cleaner should be used on the sleeves.&lt;br /&gt;
*The taper end of the sanding spindles should be lubricated with a light oil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Oscillating_Spindle_Sander&amp;diff=10212</id>
		<title>Oscillating Spindle Sander</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Oscillating_Spindle_Sander&amp;diff=10212"/>
		<updated>2022-06-29T20:17:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Spindle Sander.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Spindle Sander.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Oscillating Spindle Sander&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1204&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Grizzly Industrial&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=G1071&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=1709690&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a spindle sander.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Never make contact with the rotating spindle. The sand paper is very aggressive and could cause serious injury.     &lt;br /&gt;
* The spindle is rotating at a high rate of speed and can grab your work piece.     &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table.  This will help prevent the material from getting pulled out of your hands. If material catches on the spindle it can starts rotating quickly and create a dangerous situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Grizzly vertical spindle sander is for sanding curved surfaces square to the table.  The machine contains a 1HP motor and has 10 different sanding spindles ranging from 1/4&amp;quot; to 4&amp;quot; in diameter.  The cast iron table has an opening that provides clearance for the spindles to oscillate up and down. The oscillating action will give you a smooth sanded surface at 1725 RPM. The 4&amp;quot; dust port connects easily to any dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Exi3raTmaNQ}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Table Insert-''' A metal plate that covers the opening between the spindle and table.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Sanding Spindle-''' A metal shaft with a rubber section that supports a sand paper sleeve.  These come in a variety of sizes. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:G1071_m.pdf|Oscillating Spindle Sander User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The spindle sander is normally used for sanding inside corners. There are various spindles that range from 1/4&amp;quot; to 4&amp;quot;. If you need to change out the spindle ask the supervisor on shift for assistance. Make sure the spindle taper is clean before installing a new spindle.  Only hand tighten the spindles during installation so they can be removed.  The spindle also oscillates up and down as it rotates to produce a smooth finish. The machine has an on/off power switch located on the control panel. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not sand materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the drum and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Do not sand plastics, rubber, metal or any other materials other than natural woods.    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your material looks good, the next step is to make sure you have the appropriate spindle installed. You will also want to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the rear of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the sander to help keep the dust out of the air. As you sand, it is imperative that you keep the material firmly against the table and gently push the material into the spindle to make the surface perpendicular to the table. Hold firmly onto the material as it could get pulled out of your hands. If you are sanding the inside of a circle and the material pulls out of your hands do not attempt to grab the spinning part. If you can safely reach the power switch shut off the machine and wait for the part to stop moving. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the sander is set up you are ready to work. Turn on the sander and gently push the material into the drum, making sure to keep your hands a safe distance from the spindle. Do not force material into the drum.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup the spindle sander and create a smooth radius. Remember to use the appropriate drum size. You will need to draw a guide line to follow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Inside Radius'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Ensure that the material you are sanding is at least 4&amp;quot; long and no nails or foreign objects.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Sketch a radius onto your material using pencil.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Make sure the spindle in the machine fits the radius you have drawn.  If the spindle needs to be changed ask the supervisor on shift for help.     &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Connect the dust collector to the port on the back of the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Turn on the power switch on the front of the sander and the dust collector.  Make sure nothing is making contact with sanding drum.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Gently feed the material into the sanding drum while firmly holding onto the material.  Keep your fingers away from the spinning drum.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Carefully remove material as you keep an eye on the reference line. Slowly remove material up to the line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. When all of the material has been removed take the work piece off the table. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. Turn off the power switch for the sander and the dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Make sure to reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1204 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*As sanding sleeves are used they will &amp;quot;gum up&amp;quot; with saw dust. If not removed, the saw dust will harden and reduce the life of the sanding sleeve.  As needed, a abrasive cleaner should be used on the sleeves.&lt;br /&gt;
*The taper end of the sanding spindles should be lubricated with a light oil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Oscillating_Spindle_Sander&amp;diff=10211</id>
		<title>Oscillating Spindle Sander</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Oscillating_Spindle_Sander&amp;diff=10211"/>
		<updated>2022-06-29T20:17:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Spindle Sander.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Spindle Sander.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Oscillating Spindle Sander&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1204&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Grizzly Industrial&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=G1071&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=1709690&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a spindle sander.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Never make contact with the rotating spindle. The sand paper is very aggressive and could cause serious injury.     &lt;br /&gt;
* The spindle is rotating at a high rate of speed and can grab your work piece.     &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table.  This will help prevent the material from getting pulled out of your hands. If material catches on the spindle it can starts rotating quickly and create a dangerous situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Grizzly vertical spindle sander is for sanding curved surfaces square to the table.  The machine contains a 1HP motor and has 10 different sanding spindles ranging from 1/4&amp;quot; to 4&amp;quot; in diameter.  The cast iron table has an opening that provides clearance for the spindles to oscillate up and down. The oscillating action will give you a smooth sanded surface at 1725 RPM. The 4&amp;quot; dust port connects easily to any dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Exi3raTmaNQ}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Table Insert-''' A metal plate that covers the opening between the spindle and table.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''Sanding Spindle-''' A metal shaft with a rubber section that supports a sand paper sleeve.  These come in a variety of sizes. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:G1071_m.pdf|Oscillating Spindle Sander User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The spindle sander is normally used for sanding inside corners. There are various spindles that range from 1/4&amp;quot; to 4&amp;quot;. If you need to change out the spindle ask the supervisor on shift for assistance. Make sure the spindle taper is clean before installing a new spindle.  Only hand tighten the spindles during installation so they can be removed.  The spindle also oscillates up and down as it rotates to produce a smooth finish. The machine has an on/off power switch located on the control panel. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not sand materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the drum and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Do not sand plastics, rubber, metal or any other materials other than natural woods.    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If your material looks good, the next step is to make sure you have the appropriate spindle installed. You will also want to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the rear of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the sander to help keep the dust out of the air. As you sand, it is imperative that you keep the material firmly against the table and gently push the material into the spindle to make the surface perpendicular to the table. Hold firmly onto the material as it could get pulled out of your hands. If you are sanding the inside of a circle and the material pulls out of your hands do not attempt to grab the spinning part. If you can safely reach the power switch shut off the machine and wait for the part to stop moving. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the sander is set up you are ready to work. Turn on the sander and gently push the material into the drum, making sure to keep your hands a safe distance from the spindle. Do not force material into the drum.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup the spindle sander and create a smooth radius. Remember to use the appropriate drum size. You will need to draw a guide line to follow.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Inside Radius'''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Ensure that the material you are sanding is at least 4&amp;quot; long and no nails or foreign objects.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Sketch a radius onto your material using pencil.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Make sure the spindle in the machine fits the radius you have drawn.  If the spindle needs to be changed ask the supervisor on shift for help.     &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Connect the dust collector to the port on the back of the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Turn on the power switch on the front of the sander and the dust collector.  Make sure nothing is making contact with sanding drum.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Gently feed the material into the sanding drum while firmly holding onto the material.  Keep your fingers away from the spinning drum.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Carefully remove material as you keep an eye on the reference line. Slowly remove material up to the line. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. When all of the material has been removed take the work piece off the table. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. Turn off the power switch for the sander and the dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Make sure to reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1204 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*As sanding sleeves are used they will &amp;quot;gum up&amp;quot; with saw dust. If not removed, the saw dust will harden and reduce the life of the sanding sleeve.  As needed, a abrasive cleaner should be used on the sleeves.&lt;br /&gt;
*The taper end of the sanding spindles should be lubricated with a light oil.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Jointer&amp;diff=10210</id>
		<title>Jointer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Jointer&amp;diff=10210"/>
		<updated>2022-06-29T16:49:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* Safety First */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:jointer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Jointer icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:jointer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:jointer.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Jointer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1219&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Powermatic&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=54HH&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=170554HH3289&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a jointer.   &lt;br /&gt;
* The cutters are very sharp and spin very fast. Keep your fingers away from the cutter head even when its not spinning. Use a push pad/stick to keep your fingers a safe distance from the cutters.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Never let your thumb or fingers hang down near the table when pushing a board through the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table and fence to help prevent material kicking back. If material catches on the blade the material can shoot back at you and this is called a kickback.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Use a hold down or push block when surfacing stock less than 12&amp;quot; long, 3&amp;quot; wide, or 3&amp;quot; thick. &lt;br /&gt;
* Never feed material the same direction as the cutter rotation.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Never try to cut across grain as this could cause a kickback.&lt;br /&gt;
* Don't exceed a 1/16&amp;quot; cut per pass as too heavy of a cut can try to push material back at you and overload the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure material cut is free of all metal and loose Knots to prevent damage to you and the machine.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Never apply downward pressure to the material directly over the cutter head. This could cause the board to tip and or put your hand/fingers at risk. &lt;br /&gt;
This is a video showing how to safely use the jointer: &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3d1qBxcnI0E&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The jointers function is to produce a flat surface along a boards length and has a 6&amp;quot; width capacity. When gluing board edges together they need to be flat and fit together without gaps. A jointer cuts with a helical cutter-head made up of many tiny carbide cutters wrapped around a rotating drum. Some of the cheaper and older machines use blades rather than carbide inserts to cut away material.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1O12_hRRAU}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Cutter Head - Drum of carbide inserts that performs the cutting action. &lt;br /&gt;
* Fence - Metal back-stop that is used to guide and control the angle of material being cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/54hh-jointer-1hp-1ph-115-230v/1791317K Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:1791279DXK man EN.pdf|Jointer User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Jointer Graphic.png|800px|thumbnail|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The core of jointer consists of a round cutter head with many carbide cutters.  The cutter head is located between the in-feed and out-feed table.  The front table can be adjusted up and down to control the amount of material that is exposed to the cutter head. The lower the table the more material per pass will be removed. Don't try to adjust the out-feed table as the height has been set to support the material after it has been ran past the cutter head. Misalignment of the cutter head to out-feed table will create uneven cuts or jam the material on out-feed. There are a few other things to keep in mind regarding your material as well. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not cut materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the blade and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Only cut with the grain, attempting to cut across the grain of material will create poor results and could create kick-back. Do not attempt to joint end grain either. If you have a cupped board place the concave side down on the table while running it through the machine. This will help remove material on the ends and flatten out the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It's always a good idea to examine the material for flaws and come up with a game plan prior to making your first cut.  If the material has a cupped side you should start with the cupped side down. When dealing with boards that are more than twice the length of the in feed and out feed table you should have someone assist you while planing.  If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the jointer itself. When setting up the jointer in-feed table, make sure not to remove more than 1/16&amp;quot; of material. This limits the amount of cutter engagement and will help prevent a kickback. You will also need to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the end of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the jointer to help keep the dust out of the air. As you make a cut, it is imperative that you keep the wood firmly against the fence and table. Therefore, you should double check to see if the fence is secure, especially because the fence can be adjusted.  You do not want the fence to move while you are making a cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the jointer is set up you are ready to cut. Press the power switch and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the cutter head/guard. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished. If the material gets stuck and won't move forward continue to hold onto the work and very carefully turn off the power switch. Do not let go of your work piece during the cut or it could fly backwards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup the jointer.  You will need to clean up one edge and one face of a board. Remember to never adjust the out feed table as it has been precisely set to the height of the cutter head. Adjusting the in-feed table will change the amount of material removed per pass. Do not set the in-feed table to remove more than 1/16&amp;quot; per pass. Your fingers should never go any lower than the height of the cutter guard.  Verify the fence is locked and set at the angle needed before making a pass.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Edge Cleanup&lt;br /&gt;
 Do not perform jointing operations on material shorter than&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails and foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Make sure the board is at least 8&amp;quot; long and at least 3/4&amp;quot; wide to prevent the board from tilting while cutting. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4&amp;quot; thick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Check the cut gauge on the front table. Make sure you know how much material is being removed. Never adjust the rear table. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Check that the dust collector is connected.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Position your hands safely on the material and use a push stick if needed. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2&amp;quot; thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Slowly feed the material through while pushing down on the table and back against the fence. Moving the material too fast will produce a poor finish. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. After making a pass measure the material to see if another pass is required. Multiple passes are normally needed to get the desired results. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. Power off the machine and dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Facing Material (planing)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails or foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Make sure the board is at least 8&amp;quot; long x 2&amp;quot; wide to prevent the board from tilting while facing. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4&amp;quot; thick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Check the cut gauge. When facing you normally want to take off a small amount of material per pass due to the large surface area. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Check that the dust collector is connected.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Position your hands safely on the material. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2&amp;quot; thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Slowly feed the material through on the table to get a smooth finish. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. After making a pass inspect the material to see if another pass is needed. Multiple passes are normally required to get the desired results. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. Power off the machine and dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1219 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If the finish looks rough you may be feeding the material too fast.  Try slowing down the speed you are feeding the material through.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Carbide cutters need rotating when they start to dull.  This is a job for the technician.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Jointer&amp;diff=10209</id>
		<title>Jointer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Jointer&amp;diff=10209"/>
		<updated>2022-06-29T16:24:30Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:jointer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Jointer icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:jointer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:jointer.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Jointer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1219&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Powermatic&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=54HH&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=170554HH3289&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a jointer.   &lt;br /&gt;
* The cutters are very sharp and spin very fast. Keep your fingers away from the cutter head even when its not spinning. Use a push pad/stick to keep your fingers a safe distance from the cutters.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Never let your thumb or fingers hang down near the table when pushing a board through the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table and fence to help prevent material kicking back. If material catches on the blade the material can shoot back at you and this is called a kickback.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Use a hold down or push block when surfacing stock less than 12&amp;quot; long, or 3 inches wide, or 3 inches thick. &lt;br /&gt;
* Never feed material the same direction as the cutter rotation.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Never try to cut across grain as this could cause a kickback.&lt;br /&gt;
* Don't exceed a 1/16&amp;quot; cut per pass as too heavy of a cut can try to push material back at you and overload the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure material cut is free of all metal and loose Knots to prevent damage to you and the machine.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Never apply downward pressure to the material directly over the cutter head. This could cause the board to tip and or put your hand/fingers at risk. &lt;br /&gt;
This is a video showing how to safely use the jointer: &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3d1qBxcnI0E&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The jointers function is to produce a flat surface along a boards length and has a 6&amp;quot; width capacity. When gluing board edges together they need to be flat and fit together without gaps. A jointer cuts with a helical cutter-head made up of many tiny carbide cutters wrapped around a rotating drum. Some of the cheaper and older machines use blades rather than carbide inserts to cut away material.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1O12_hRRAU}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Cutter Head - Drum of carbide inserts that performs the cutting action. &lt;br /&gt;
* Fence - Metal back-stop that is used to guide and control the angle of material being cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/54hh-jointer-1hp-1ph-115-230v/1791317K Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:1791279DXK man EN.pdf|Jointer User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Jointer Graphic.png|800px|thumbnail|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The core of jointer consists of a round cutter head with many carbide cutters.  The cutter head is located between the in-feed and out-feed table.  The front table can be adjusted up and down to control the amount of material that is exposed to the cutter head. The lower the table the more material per pass will be removed. Don't try to adjust the out-feed table as the height has been set to support the material after it has been ran past the cutter head. Misalignment of the cutter head to out-feed table will create uneven cuts or jam the material on out-feed. There are a few other things to keep in mind regarding your material as well. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not cut materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the blade and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Only cut with the grain, attempting to cut across the grain of material will create poor results and could create kick-back. Do not attempt to joint end grain either. If you have a cupped board place the concave side down on the table while running it through the machine. This will help remove material on the ends and flatten out the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It's always a good idea to examine the material for flaws and come up with a game plan prior to making your first cut.  If the material has a cupped side you should start with the cupped side down. When dealing with boards that are more than twice the length of the in feed and out feed table you should have someone assist you while planing.  If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the jointer itself. When setting up the jointer in-feed table, make sure not to remove more than 1/16&amp;quot; of material. This limits the amount of cutter engagement and will help prevent a kickback. You will also need to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the end of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the jointer to help keep the dust out of the air. As you make a cut, it is imperative that you keep the wood firmly against the fence and table. Therefore, you should double check to see if the fence is secure, especially because the fence can be adjusted.  You do not want the fence to move while you are making a cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the jointer is set up you are ready to cut. Press the power switch and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the cutter head/guard. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished. If the material gets stuck and won't move forward continue to hold onto the work and very carefully turn off the power switch. Do not let go of your work piece during the cut or it could fly backwards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup the jointer.  You will need to clean up one edge and one face of a board. Remember to never adjust the out feed table as it has been precisely set to the height of the cutter head. Adjusting the in-feed table will change the amount of material removed per pass. Do not set the in-feed table to remove more than 1/16&amp;quot; per pass. Your fingers should never go any lower than the height of the cutter guard.  Verify the fence is locked and set at the angle needed before making a pass.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Edge Cleanup&lt;br /&gt;
 Do not perform jointing operations on material shorter than&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails and foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Make sure the board is at least 8&amp;quot; long and at least 3/4&amp;quot; wide to prevent the board from tilting while cutting. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4&amp;quot; thick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Check the cut gauge on the front table. Make sure you know how much material is being removed. Never adjust the rear table. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Check that the dust collector is connected.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Position your hands safely on the material and use a push stick if needed. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2&amp;quot; thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Slowly feed the material through while pushing down on the table and back against the fence. Moving the material too fast will produce a poor finish. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. After making a pass measure the material to see if another pass is required. Multiple passes are normally needed to get the desired results. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. Power off the machine and dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Facing Material (planing)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails or foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Make sure the board is at least 8&amp;quot; long x 2&amp;quot; wide to prevent the board from tilting while facing. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4&amp;quot; thick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Check the cut gauge. When facing you normally want to take off a small amount of material per pass due to the large surface area. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Check that the dust collector is connected.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Position your hands safely on the material. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2&amp;quot; thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Slowly feed the material through on the table to get a smooth finish. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. After making a pass inspect the material to see if another pass is needed. Multiple passes are normally required to get the desired results. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. Power off the machine and dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1219 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If the finish looks rough you may be feeding the material too fast.  Try slowing down the speed you are feeding the material through.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Carbide cutters need rotating when they start to dull.  This is a job for the technician.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Jointer&amp;diff=10208</id>
		<title>Jointer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Jointer&amp;diff=10208"/>
		<updated>2022-06-29T16:24:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:jointer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Jointer icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:jointer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:jointer.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Powermatic Jointer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1219&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Powermatic&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=54HH&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=170554HH3289&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a jointer.   &lt;br /&gt;
* The cutters are very sharp and spin very fast. Keep your fingers away from the cutter head even when its not spinning. Use a push pad/stick to keep your fingers a safe distance from the cutters.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Never let your thumb or fingers hang down near the table when pushing a board through the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table and fence to help prevent material kicking back. If material catches on the blade the material can shoot back at you and this is called a kickback.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Use a hold down or push block when surfacing stock less than 12&amp;quot; long, or 3 inches wide, or 3 inches thick. &lt;br /&gt;
* Never feed material the same direction as the cutter rotation.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Never try to cut across grain as this could cause a kickback.&lt;br /&gt;
* Don't exceed a 1/16&amp;quot; cut per pass as too heavy of a cut can try to push material back at you and overload the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure material cut is free of all metal and loose Knots to prevent damage to you and the machine.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Never apply downward pressure to the material directly over the cutter head. This could cause the board to tip and or put your hand/fingers at risk. &lt;br /&gt;
This is a video showing how to safely use the jointer: &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3d1qBxcnI0E&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The jointers function is to produce a flat surface along a boards length and has a 6&amp;quot; width capacity. When gluing board edges together they need to be flat and fit together without gaps. A jointer cuts with a helical cutter-head made up of many tiny carbide cutters wrapped around a rotating drum. Some of the cheaper and older machines use blades rather than carbide inserts to cut away material.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1O12_hRRAU}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Cutter Head - Drum of carbide inserts that performs the cutting action. &lt;br /&gt;
* Fence - Metal back-stop that is used to guide and control the angle of material being cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/54hh-jointer-1hp-1ph-115-230v/1791317K Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:1791279DXK man EN.pdf|Jointer User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Jointer Graphic.png|800px|thumbnail|right]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The core of jointer consists of a round cutter head with many carbide cutters.  The cutter head is located between the in-feed and out-feed table.  The front table can be adjusted up and down to control the amount of material that is exposed to the cutter head. The lower the table the more material per pass will be removed. Don't try to adjust the out-feed table as the height has been set to support the material after it has been ran past the cutter head. Misalignment of the cutter head to out-feed table will create uneven cuts or jam the material on out-feed. There are a few other things to keep in mind regarding your material as well. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not cut materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the blade and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Only cut with the grain, attempting to cut across the grain of material will create poor results and could create kick-back. Do not attempt to joint end grain either. If you have a cupped board place the concave side down on the table while running it through the machine. This will help remove material on the ends and flatten out the board. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
It's always a good idea to examine the material for flaws and come up with a game plan prior to making your first cut.  If the material has a cupped side you should start with the cupped side down. When dealing with boards that are more than twice the length of the in feed and out feed table you should have someone assist you while planing.  If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the jointer itself. When setting up the jointer in-feed table, make sure not to remove more than 1/16&amp;quot; of material. This limits the amount of cutter engagement and will help prevent a kickback. You will also need to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the end of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the jointer to help keep the dust out of the air. As you make a cut, it is imperative that you keep the wood firmly against the fence and table. Therefore, you should double check to see if the fence is secure, especially because the fence can be adjusted.  You do not want the fence to move while you are making a cut.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After the jointer is set up you are ready to cut. Press the power switch and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the cutter head/guard. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished. If the material gets stuck and won't move forward continue to hold onto the work and very carefully turn off the power switch. Do not let go of your work piece during the cut or it could fly backwards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Demonstrate you can safely setup the jointer.  You will need to clean up one edge and one face of a board. Remember to never adjust the out feed table as it has been precisely set to the height of the cutter head. Adjusting the in-feed table will change the amount of material removed per pass. Do not set the in-feed table to remove more than 1/16&amp;quot; per pass. Your fingers should never go any lower than the height of the cutter guard.  Verify the fence is locked and set at the angle needed before making a pass.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Edge Cleanup&lt;br /&gt;
 Do not perform jointing operations on material shorter than&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails and foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Make sure the board is at least 8&amp;quot; long and at least 3/4&amp;quot; wide to prevent the board from tilting while cutting. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4&amp;quot; thick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Check the cut gauge on the front table. Make sure you know how much material is being removed. Never adjust the rear table. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Check that the dust collector is connected.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Position your hands safely on the material and use a push stick if needed. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2&amp;quot; thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Slowly feed the material through while pushing down on the table and back against the fence. Moving the material too fast will produce a poor finish. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. After making a pass measure the material to see if another pass is required. Multiple passes are normally needed to get the desired results. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. Power off the machine and dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Facing Material (planing)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails or foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards. Check for problematic knots too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Make sure the board is at least 8&amp;quot; long x 2&amp;quot; wide to prevent the board from tilting while facing. Do not joint workpieces less than 1/4&amp;quot; thick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Check the cut gauge. When facing you normally want to take off a small amount of material per pass due to the large surface area. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Check that the dust collector is connected.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Position your hands safely on the material. A push pad/stick is needed if your material is less than 2&amp;quot; thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Slowly feed the material through on the table to get a smooth finish. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. After making a pass inspect the material to see if another pass is needed. Multiple passes are normally required to get the desired results. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
10. Power off the machine and dust collector.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
11. Reset the space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1219 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If the finish looks rough you may be feeding the material too fast.  Try slowing down the speed you are feeding the material through.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Carbide cutters need rotating when they start to dull.  This is a job for the technician.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Handheld_CNC_Router&amp;diff=10203</id>
		<title>Handheld CNC Router</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Handheld_CNC_Router&amp;diff=10203"/>
		<updated>2022-06-28T16:35:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:CNC Hand Router.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Shaper-Origin-Hero-Shot.jpg &lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1272&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Shaper&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model= S01-NN Origin&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number=40083933&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove any adjusting key or wrench before turning the power tool on. A wrench or a key left attached to a rotating part of the power tool may result in personal injury or damage the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
* Always use the dust collection system to keep the dust levels in the wood shop from reaching a dangerous level.&lt;br /&gt;
* Always hold onto the router while it is cutting. It is a CNC but it is not fastened to anything and could tip over if the bit catches on the material. &lt;br /&gt;
* Cut at an appropriate feed rate. If Origin’s correction range is unable to keep up with your feed rate, move Origin slower, reduce the depth of cut, change your router bit, and/or adjust the spindle speed.&lt;br /&gt;
* Adhere work piece elements that may come loose during cutting. When cutting items out of work piece materials, use double sided tape or alternative methods to hold elements down to your workbench and/or spoil board. This will prevent items from coming loose when cutting is complete.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The handheld CNC is a relatively small and portable computer automated router that can be moved around a flat, wooden surface. It uses location tracking and a moving spindle to provide an easy way to make precise cuts using a handheld machine which makes it great for performing high precision or detailed cuts. A camera is used to track its location by referencing a special tape which you apply to the surface you want to cut on. The spindle and router bit for the CNC are small, so the CNC is best suited for shallow cuts and engraving work. Despite the shallow cuts, the CNC is still capable of cutting non-shallow material thicknesses, it just means that multiple passes will have to be made.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0clzXWSaCw}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* SVG - SVG is the file type for the graphics file that the CNC uses for its cuts. SVG stands for “Scalable Vector Graphics” and can be opened/modified with Adobe Illustrator, GIMP, and some others.&lt;br /&gt;
* Pocket Cut - The cut setting for hallowing out the center of a shape. &lt;br /&gt;
* Shaper Tape - A custom tape with special graphics on it that is used by the router to orient itself in space.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Spindle - The part of the router that spins.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Collet - The clamp that secures the router bits.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Shaper Origin Product Manual.pdf|Handheld CNC Router User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
Before a cut can be performed with the handheld CNC router you must provide a cut design in the form of an SVG file. These can be created in several different programs but Inkscape is recommended because it is installed on the hub computers and is free to download onto a personal device. When designing your cut use the actual dimensions of the cut. If it is your first time using Inkscape there are tutorials on [https://inkscape.org/learn/tutorials/ their website] and [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEQXp_fcqwPcqrzNtWJ1w9w Youtube] as well. Alternatively, you can download SVG from a website like [https://thenounproject.com/ this]. After you have created the cut file transfer it to the router using a USB drive or by uploading it over WiFi. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Take the CNC out of the box, set it on a flat, wooden surface, and plug it in. Ensure that the dust collection vacuum is working and has a good seal on the CNC connecting piece. You should never use the CNC without dust collection working! Determine the area on the wood material that you want to cut on and place several strips of tape a bit beyond the width and height of the area you’ll need, with 4-6 inch separation between the tape strips (they don’t need to be straight and parallel, they can be crooked). The CNC uses this tape to manage the CNC’s position. Double check that the correct router bit is secure and in place in the spindle. If the router bit needs to be replaced or secured, make sure that the spindle is turned off and unplugged from the main computer of the router before you take the spindle out of its place. Keep in mind that the switch for the spindle only turns off the spindle, not the CNC computer system.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On the touch interface, select the scan mode and create a new scan for the tape. Move the CNC around the surface until all of the (unripped) tape is highlighted blue. It is important to have enough tape, if the CNC loses track of enough tape it will immediately raise the spindle and stop the router from cutting any material. Once you’re ready, go to the cut menu on the CNC’s touch interface and select the correct diameter for your router bit and the depth your want to cut. It will ask you to “touch off”, select yes. Touching off means that the CNC will lower the router until it just touches the surface in order to calibrate the depth control for the router. Select the appropriate cut type (inside, outside, on-line, or pocket) for the cut you will be making. The pocket cut type will cut out the entire area of the shape you have selected. The guide cut type will not act as a cutting line, it will only show on the display as a reference. You can preview the cut size and direction by looking at the direction of the dashed outline and the thicker, grey line on top of the small, dashed line. Double check that the spindle speed (the control wheel to the right of the spindle) is set correctly. Before you make your first cut, double check the tape accuracy by moving the CNC around and watching the tape icon on the top-right of the display. This shows how much tape is visible to the camera, so the more full the tape bar is the better. If it is consistently low, it may be best to add more tape and do a new scan. Once these things have been completed, you should be good to go for cutting! Keep in mind that you may have to do multiple passes to get the right depth and you may also have to change cut type depending on what kind of cut you’re trying to make.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration, download [https://thenounproject.com/search/?q=bear&amp;amp;i=121661 this file] as an SVG and open it in Inkscape. Download the [https://support.shapertools.com/hc/en-us/articles/115002735794-Using-the-Template SVG template] from Shaper's website and copy that into the previously downloaded image. Use the eyedropper tool and paint can tool to replace the black outline of the bear with the grey color found on the template. Add a black box around the bear to act as an edge to cut through. Make sure that there is enough distance from the box to the bear, as the black line indicates an inside cut (so the router bit will be cutting on the inside of the box). Once finished, delete the template and save the file as an SVG to an SD card. Complete the demonstration by setting up the router and cutting the file. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
Included in this section are some helpful videos made by Shaper that walk through the entire process of using the router. It is highly recommended that you look through the videos but if you do not then there are instructions walking through the same process.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Setting up the Cut Area:&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdsMOPZFMRQ}}&lt;br /&gt;
# Remove the router from its box.&lt;br /&gt;
# Power on the router buy plugging in the device. Do not flip the switch attached to the spindle motor to the on position. &lt;br /&gt;
# Place at least three strips of Shaper Tape slightly above the area you want to cut so that the router will be able to orient itself. They do not have to be straight line but do need to be in the same plane. &lt;br /&gt;
# Select the new scan option on the router and move the router around the work area until all of the tape is highlighted in blue on the screen. This establishes a work plane that the router can reference during a cut. After you have scanned the tape it will take some time for the router to stitch together the work space in its software. Once it is completed, a screen will appear displaying a cross hare that represents the location of the router bit on the work space. You can also zoom out by double tapping the screen to see the complete work area.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the design option on the right of the screen to move onto setting up the cut.&lt;br /&gt;
# Bring the file onto the router. The router is capable of receiving files WiFi using individual Shaper accounts but it is quicker and easier to use a Usb drive to transfer files. If using a Usb drive, plug it into the side of the router and then use the plus symbol on the left of the screen to navigate to your file. After selecting your file, the router should display the work space with the file overlaid on top of it.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the cut file to your desired location and press place to establish where you want to cut on the work space. You can put it in a very precise place by zooming in and matching the edges the cut file and work piece together.&lt;br /&gt;
# Install your desired bit. Unscrew the bolt on the right of the spindle just loose enough to remove the spindle. To remove the router bit, press down on the locking mechanism and twist the collet until the router bit can be removed. Make sure that the router bit grooves are not below a quarter inch from the top of the collet. Once a new router bit has been put in place, use the wrench to tighten the collet. Reinsert the spindle into the slot on the CNC and tighten the bolt “finger tight”.&lt;br /&gt;
# Hook up the router to the dust collection system (aka the shop vac) using the included hose and the dust port on the router base. &lt;br /&gt;
# Press the cut option on the right of the screen and you are ready to cut.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure that you place a spoil board below the material you are cutting so that you do not cut the table. Also be sure to secure the work piece so that it will not shift while you are routing. There is not a specific way to do this but double sided tape may be helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Performing a Cut:&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DekAjAOIVvQ}}&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the air cut type in the upper left of the screen and move the router over top of your first cut line so that the line is highlighted as moving dashed line. This indicates the direction your cut should be made in. Make sure to select your bit size and cut location at this point. The cut location can be on the line, inside the line, or outside the line based on your application. There are other cut settings you can experiment with as well.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Hit the green button to begin the cut. The cut is indicated by a blue line and the center if the bit is indicated by a white dot. The router can move the bit anywhere within the larger white circle so make sure to keep the cut line within the large circle and the router will take care of the rest. There is also an auto advance feature that will move the bit forward to the edge of the large circle. &lt;br /&gt;
# Run through your air cut until you get a feel for how the router responds and are confident the cut file is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
# Change from an air cut to a whatever cut depth you desire. A good rule of thumb is to never cut deeper than 1.5 times the diameter of the cutting tool. &lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the spindle motor is plugged in and the correct bit is selected.&lt;br /&gt;
# Press the z touch button on the left of the screen to zero the router bit to the surface of the work piece. &lt;br /&gt;
# Set the spindle speed. The spindle speed can also be adjusted using the dial on the side of the spindle motor if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
# Hit the green button on the handle or press start on the screen to perform the cut.&lt;br /&gt;
# Reset the space when finished by vacuuming any dust, returning the router to its box, and putting away any scrap material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1272 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* Cut is to big or small. The router will cut exactly on the cut line which often results in tight fitting parts. Use the offset option in the cut settings to increase or decrease the cut size by a minimal amount. &lt;br /&gt;
* The router keeps losing track of the Shaper Tape during a cut. Try rotating the router during the cut so the camera is always pointing towards the tape. If the problem persists add more tape.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To keep this machine working properly, wipe off any dust that was collected on it while cutting before putting it away. There is also a chip tray on the front of the router that needs to be cleaned out as it fill up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Wipe down the Router &lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean the chip tray&lt;br /&gt;
|When it is close to full&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Compound_Miter_Saw&amp;diff=10201</id>
		<title>Compound Miter Saw</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Compound_Miter_Saw&amp;diff=10201"/>
		<updated>2022-06-24T20:22:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number= 440496&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Miter Saw.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Compound Miter Saw image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Compound Miter Saw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1208&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Dewalt&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=DWS780&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Needed;Needed&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
*Wear safety glasses.&lt;br /&gt;
*Wear hearing protection when operating loud machinery.&lt;br /&gt;
*Always know where your fingers are in relation to the blade and never place your fingers under the blade. Keep your guiding hand a safe distance from the cutting area (at least 4”); miter saws have claimed many fingers. There is no SawStop mechanism on this saw, so the blade will continue spinning if it comes in contact with a body part. Never cross your arms while using the miter saw.&lt;br /&gt;
*Do not use the miter saw if the blade guard is missing or improperly attached.&lt;br /&gt;
*Ensure your workpiece is seated firmly against the fence before making a cut.&lt;br /&gt;
*Ensure the workspace and floorspace are clear of clutter and trip/slip hazards.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Wood Shop Attire====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*Do not wear any loose-fitting clothing. Remove or roll up long-sleeve clothing.&lt;br /&gt;
*Do not wear any jewelry or accessories such as necklaces, scarves, watches, bracelets, rings, tiaras, or dangling earrings.&lt;br /&gt;
*Do not wear open-toed shoes or heels.&lt;br /&gt;
*If applicable, tie your hair up.&lt;br /&gt;
*Do not wear gloves; gloves hinder the ability to effectively use your hands.&lt;br /&gt;
All of these items have been known to get caught in moving machinery and/or increase the chances of an accident. Please use common sense and remember that most accidents are completely preventable by paying attention to detail and adhering to safety/training guidelines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Notes On Proper Workpiece Size====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Many accidents occur simply because a person attempts to cut a piece of wood that is too small or too big. Small workpieces are easily grabbed by spinning blades, and the hand holding the workpiece can quickly follow. Use the 12/3 rule. If your workpiece is smaller than 12” long and 3” wide, seek help from an instructor before making your cut. On the other hand, oversized lumber is under control of the blade, not your hands. Because oversized lumber must be forced into the blade, the extra force required can cause slipping, thrusting, or sudden movements in the workpiece--sending body parts lunging forward toward the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Miter saws are a type of chop saw where the angle of the blade in relation to the fence is adjustable for making angled cuts (a.k.a. miter cuts). Compound miter saws can also tilt the blade to make bevels. They are primarily used for crosscuts through wood and are good for making repeated cuts at the same length.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some example videos of miter saw use.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAymVRheJoA}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPUgrhnJVbU}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Terminology/Anatomy==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Miter Saw Diagram.jpg|400px|thumb|right|Miter Saw Diagram]]&lt;br /&gt;
'''Miter'''&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
''noun''&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
# A tall headdress worn by bishops and senior abbots as a symbol of office, tapering to a point at front and back with a deep cleft between.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
# A joint made between two pieces of wood or other material at an angle of 90°, such that the line of junction bisects this angle.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Other Names: Chop Saw&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
'''Workpiece''' – an object (in this case a piece of wood) being worked on with a tool or machine.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
'''Keeper Piece''' – the piece you keep; “blessed are the peacemakers, for they shall be called sons of God.” – Matthew 5:9&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
'''Offcut''' – scrap, the waste resulting from cutting a piece of wood.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
'''Fence''' – a fixture attached to the machine/tool that guides the workpiece in a straight line against it.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
'''Bevel''' – to cut an inclined or sloping angle (in reference to the z-axis) on a workpiece that is other than 90°; also, the angle itself.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
'''Crosscut''' – a cut perpendicular to the grain of the wood.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
'''Rip''' – a cut parallel to the grain of the wood.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
'''Kerf''' – the wood removed by a saw between the piece you keep and the offcut which is approximately equal to the width of the saw blade.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
'''Stop Block''' – a block of wood temporarily fixed in place to limit the travel of a workpiece as it is cut; also a block of wood that serves as a reference point when a number of pieces need to be crosscut to the same length.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
'''Sacrificial Fence (Auxiliary Fence)''' – a temporary fence attached to the main fence that is often damaged during the cutting process, then discarded.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
'''Detent (Positive Stop)''' – a preset adjustment on a device where the range of motion catches and stops until it is released, usually set for common angles such as 45° or 90°.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:N466020 DWS780.pdf|Miter Saw User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In contrast to the operation of a table saw or band saw, the workpiece on a miter saw remains stationary while the blade moves through it. The blade spins away from the user at the point of contact with the wood; this is why the user should always ensure that the workpiece is firmly against the fence before making a cut. This machine is only intended for cutting wood or wood-like materials. Do not cut metal or any type of ferrous material. All workpieces should be carefully inspected for foreign objects or defects before cutting (including nails, screws, staples, etc.). Do not make rip cuts with the miter saw; the blade is specifically designed for crosscuts. Sliding miter saws can cut wider workpieces than non-sliding miter saws. The maximum 90° crosscut capacity for this saw is 2”x14”. Push the saw through the workpiece (away from you) when using the slide functionality; do not pull the saw through the workpiece (towards you). Cutting on the pull stroke is likely to cause the saw blade to climb on top of the workpiece and violently throw the blade assembly towards the user.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Notes On Proper Measuring====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Mark the workpiece at the desired cut-length and use a square to draw a perpendicular line where you want to make the cut. Do not center the blade on the perpendicular line to make the cut because the kerf will cause the keeper piece to be too short (by half the width of the blade). Think about which side of the workpiece will be the offcut and position the blade over the offcut region of your workpiece with the very edge of the blade on the perpendicular line.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Making Cuts====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Only cut one workpiece at a time.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Rehearse your cuts before making them. This simply refers to performing the motions of the cut without spinning up the blade to ensure your fingers are clear from the cutting area and to double-check measurements.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
When making a cut, squeeze the power trigger while the saw is in its fully-raised position and let the saw reach full speed before cutting into the workpiece. Slowly guide the blade through the workpiece; there is no need for fast movements or excessive downward force.&amp;lt;br&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
After the workpiece is fully cut, let the blade come to a stop in the down position. If you lift the saw while the blade is still spinning, the teeth can potentially catch on the wood and throw the offcut in a random direction. This is especially important when using a stop block because the offcut is trapped between the blade and the stop block. In addition, you will get cleaner cuts if you let the blade come to a stop in the down position. You will also get more accurate cuts with the workpiece face up/down instead of on its edge.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration, find a piece of scrap wood and make an equilateral triangle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Canvas Quiz====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1208 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10200</id>
		<title>CNC Router</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10200"/>
		<updated>2022-06-24T18:35:43Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* Safety First */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number= 16124390&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Woodworking&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:CNC_router_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Smartshop2_Image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Laguna CNC Router&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Laguna&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=SmartShop II&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Luke Roderick;lroderick20@georgefox.edu &lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are multiple hazards you need to be aware of when using the CNC router.   &lt;br /&gt;
* The tooling is very sharp and spins at over 18,000 RPM. Keep your body parts away from the cutter and spindle. You need fingers for the ring you will get by spring.    &lt;br /&gt;
* Stay behind the yellow/black safety line when operating the router. The router is very large and will not stop if you get in its way.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Materials need to be securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means. This includes material that could be made loose during the cutting process. Use tabs to secure such material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Never attempt to cut a hole the same diameter as the cuter with a down cut force cutter.  This will compress the chips and can create a fire due to the air draw of the vacuum table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear ear protection when operating the CNC router.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Laguna SmartShop II is a CNC wood router capable of cutting out complex shapes that would otherwise be difficult to create by hand. Like all CNC machines, the SmartShop II is most useful when a design calls for a high level of precision, or is being mass produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_uOBg8Kc2k}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A90hoR7M1Ls&amp;amp;feature=emb_logo}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VswxAwtXKk}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*ZPO (Zero Point Offset) - The selected X and Y position on the material that coordinates with the program zero point.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Collet- A piece of machined steel that clamps down and locates the cutter in the tool holder. &lt;br /&gt;
*Dust Shroud- A combination of sheet metal and flexible brush material that performs a seal around the area of material during the cutting process. &lt;br /&gt;
*Spoil Board- A porous sacrificial board used on top of the router bed but under the work piece.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Regenerative Blower- This device produces the vacuum needed to pull material down onto the spoil board.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Holder- Cutters are placed in the tool holder and each holder gets pulled into the spindle during a tool change.&lt;br /&gt;
*Up Shear Router Bits- Normally used for deeper pockets as they evacuative chips better. &lt;br /&gt;
*Down Shear Router Bits- Normally used for shallow pockets and leaves a very clean edge. Tend to pile up the chips as they don't evacuate the chips very well.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Combination (Compression) Router Bits- Helps keep a good finish on the material when using a laminate on both sides.   &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Touch-Off- A process of setting the Z axis height of a tool using the sensor built into the machine.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:MCNCSS2 13032015 B&amp;amp;R.pdf|CNC Router User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To get started you will need to get a .DXF file from Solidworks or another program.  The .DXF file will need to be imported into VCarve Pro software. VCarve is used to create the G-code used by the router. You will select the type of cuts and tooling inside the software. Most cutting jobs can be done using a 1/4&amp;quot; cutter. A good rule of thumb is to not exceed the diameter of the tool in depth per pass. In foam or soft materials you can cut deeper per pass. The large switch near the middle of cabinet is the main power.  There is a key located on the control panel that also needs to be turned to the on position for the PC inside the machine to boot.  After power up, make sure the table is clear before pressing the home button.  The machine will move to the corner closest the control panel after moving the Z, X, and y axis to home position.  Always keep your body outside the safety line while the machine is moving.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration you will need to import a DXF file into VCarve Pro and convert it to G-code.  You will also need to demonstrate safe startup and use of the router using the G-code file you produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Open VCarvePro software. ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To start a new project, you must first select “Create a new file.”&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, you will be prompted to input the width, height, and thickness of the material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure that the Z Zero Position is set to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; Our Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Now select &amp;quot;import vector&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure all the imported pieces are close together, but make sure they don't overlap. &lt;br /&gt;
# Starting with the inside features, you will hold the shift key and select all of the holes. Once they are all selected, go to Tool Path and select the appropriate Profile or pocketing Tool Path. Choose your cut depth, tool, parameters, and then select OK. Double-check that Inside Cut is also selected, and check the box for Ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
# To save the inside cutout tool path, select Calculate and OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;preview selected tool path&amp;quot; to ensure the path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
# Switch back to the 2D view and begin the process for cutting out your design. This starts by holding down the shift key and selecting the items.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select VCarve, and make sure the settings are correct. If you are satisfied, select Calculate and OK again. You can preview this part of the process as well.&lt;br /&gt;
# Go back to the 2D view to begin the outside cutout process.&lt;br /&gt;
# Holding the shift key down, you can now select the outer pieces that need to be cut out. Then select Close on the right side of the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, choose Tool Path, select Outside Cut, and change your tool and parameters as needed. Check the box for adding a Ramp, and hit Calculate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Preview the entire process before saving the file.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you are happy with the design, select &amp;quot;Laguna SmartShop BR ATC(inch)(*prg)&amp;quot; post processor and &amp;quot;save toolpath(s)&amp;quot;. You can copy the files onto a flash drive to import into the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Detailed Procedure==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Software ===&lt;br /&gt;
VCarve Pro is the software used in conjunction with the CNC router and may be found on the eight rolling computers in the [[The Hub]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Job Setup ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the appropriate job type: single or double sided.&lt;br /&gt;
# Enter the size of your work-piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the Z Zero Position to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; The Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Vectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To Import the design you wish to cut go to File&amp;gt;Import&amp;gt;Import [your file type] and find your design. If you import a non-vector based design you will need to trace bitmap once imported.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select your design and use the arrow keys to position it to the desired location.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sometimes paths will not be joined properly (i.e. selecting one side of a rectangle does not select the entire rectangle). Vectors that aren't joined are treated as separate paths. Separate paths that should be joined may cause the bit to cut on the wrong side of the path. To join vectors simply press j to open the Join Vectors menu, select the vectors you wish to join and click Join.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Toolpaths ====&lt;br /&gt;
Creating tool-paths is a complex process that involves critical thinking and foresight into the cutting process. Please recognize that these instructions are by no means comprehensive and only address the simplest of the 2D tool paths features. If you wish to engrave, inlay, or do 3D carving do some research to determine the appropriate procedure. Finally, recognize that YOU ARE THE SAFETY MECHANISM on the CNC router. It will do what it is told even if that means crashing into the table or a tool holder because you accidentally told it to. All this to say that when you make a tool-path, be aware that the computer is dumb and will do what you tell it, not what you meant to tell it.&lt;br /&gt;
# To open the Toolpaths menu click the Toolpaths tab on the top right of your screen. Once the menu appears, turn off auto hide by clicking on the push pin icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Before defining any Toolpaths it is a good idea to open the material setup menu and double check that everything is set up correctly. &lt;br /&gt;
## Thickness: It is obviously important that the thickness of your material is accurate to avoid cutting deep into the spoil-board or not all the way through your part.&lt;br /&gt;
## XY Datum: Ensure that you understand where the datum is so you can accurately position your part inside your lumber.&lt;br /&gt;
## Z -Zero MUST be set to Machine Bed. (This has been mentioned many times because it is very important).&lt;br /&gt;
## Model Position in Material: This is for 3D carving and is used to tell the computer where you want to *gasp* position the model in the material.&lt;br /&gt;
## Rapid Z Gaps above Material: This is very important if you are using any clamps, jigs or anything that sticks above the surface of your material to secure it to the spoil-board. The rapid z clearance tells the computer how far above your material surface it is safe to do rapid movements during the cutting process. 0.2 inches is a good height if you don't need a fixture. Otherwise, make sure that it is set high enough so that you will not crash into your fixture. Plunge tells the computer the height it is OK to do a rapid plunge at. This value will typically be equal to the rapid z clearance. &lt;br /&gt;
## Home: Defines where the start position is. Do not change this setting.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always perform inside cuts and pockets prior to cutting the outline of your part. Failure to do so may result in incorrect geometry due to the part shifting during the cutting process. The goal here is to leave the part as stable as possible for as long as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General 2D Toolpath instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
# Cutting Depths: Start Depth tells the computer at what depth you wish to begin a cut. Unless you have already removed material over the entire path of the cut, the start depth should be zero. Cut depth is how deep you wish to cut. For a through cut set the cut depth equal to the thickness of the material. Do not set the cut depth deeper than the thickness of the material because it will cause unnecessary wear on the spoil board.&lt;br /&gt;
# Tool: Selecting your tool is important. For most operations a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill will be sufficient. The biggest things to be aware of are the tool number and spindle speed. The tool number tells the computer which tool it is to pick up. The CNC is dumb and will not know what tool it is holding at any given time. All it knows is the tool number. it is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL that you enter the correct tool number for all of your tools. Breaking off an end-mill spinning at 18000 rpm causing it to shoot across the room and impale you or your beloved engineering classmates will not win you favor. Also check that the rpm are appropriate, typically the default is fine. For a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill set the speed to 18000 rpm.&lt;br /&gt;
# Passes: Adjust the number of passes such that the pass depth is less than the diameter of the end mill you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ramp Plunge: This option plunges the end-mill on a ramp instead of going straight into the material. Generally it is wise to use this feature because it reduces the forces on the end-mill.&lt;br /&gt;
Pocket Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Profile Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
# Research! You are a capable engineering student. You can do 15 minutes of research on your own prior to step 2.&lt;br /&gt;
# Consult the ace and technician. They might ask you questions about what you want to make. It would be great if you came in with some knowledge about the process because you spent 4 minutes reading about how to do what you want to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Steps ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the Preview Toolpaths feature to double check your part. Make sure that any inner geometry is cut first. You may need to use the reset preview option.&lt;br /&gt;
# Briefly look through your material set up, tool selections, and settings to be certain that you have correctly programmed the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
# Check (again) that the z zero position has been set to Machine Bed. &lt;br /&gt;
# Select Save Toolpath. Be sure that the &amp;quot;Output all visible toolpaths to one file&amp;quot; box is selected. Check that all of your toolpaths appear underneath &amp;quot;Toolpaths to be saved...&amp;quot; The tools should have the correct tool size and location indicated. Select the appropriate post processor: Laguna SmartShop BR ATC (inch) (*.prg).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Operation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Startup ====&lt;br /&gt;
*Connect the pneumatic air line located on the tool holder end of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
*To power up the machine turn on the main power switch located on the base of the control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn on the key switch located near the screen located on the control panel and wait for the PC to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure all of the axis are clear to move.&lt;br /&gt;
*Select HOME and wait for the machine to move to the 0,0 position. You should never be on the machine side of the yellow/black tape on the floor when the machine is operating.&lt;br /&gt;
*To manually load/unload a tool in the spindle you will need to press the green button on the left side of the spindle while holding onto the tool holder OD. To insert the tool press the button and slide the tool holder up into the spindle.  To remove a tool press the button and tool will be ejected from the spindle. Do not allow your hands to make contact with the razor sharp cutting tool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Material ====&lt;br /&gt;
Only cut wood when operating this machine unless specific approval has been given by the technician.  Acrylic and foam may be cut with approval.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== End Mills ====&lt;br /&gt;
*We have a variety of tooling but the majority of cutting should be done with a 1/4&amp;quot; tool.  Talk with the technician while in the design phase.&lt;br /&gt;
*Whenever a tool is changed in the tool holder a touch off operation must be performed.  This will calculate the distance the tool is sticking out of the holder and prevent damage to the table and your work of art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Checks ====&lt;br /&gt;
There are some checks you should always do prior to running a program. Ask yourself the following questions before pressing the start button!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Is the material securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Is the dust collector turned on?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Has the zero point been set in the correct location?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Is the pneumatic line connected to the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Are the correct tools setup in the program and in their proper slot on the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Is everyone clear of the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Is the dust collection shroud going to collide with the material because I'm cutting beyond 3/4&amp;quot; deep?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Has the proper program been loaded?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Has the Z-zero position been set using the material bed and not the material surface?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cutting ====&lt;br /&gt;
Always keep your finger near the stop button when starting your program.  Most likely if something goes wrong it will happen early in the process so be ready to stop the machine. If you know the relationship between the brush on the dust shroud and the end of the tool you will have a good idea how deep the tool is when it cuts into the material. It is also very important to know what the program should be doing so you can verify the tool path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Reset the Space ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you have finished, park the cutting tool back into the storage rack at the end of the table. You will need to remove any material on the table and use the vacuum to clean off any leftover dust and chips.  You can use the dust collector or portable vacuum.  Make sure to disconnect the pneumatic air line and power down the machine with the spindle located off of the table.  This will prevent any leaking oil from dripping on the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*If none of the control functions on the control panel appear to work, make sure the machine has been homed and the E-stop is released. &lt;br /&gt;
*If the cutting tool height appears to be incorrect make sure the tool touch off has been performed for the tool in use.&lt;br /&gt;
*If your tool path appears on the inside of your part, it is likely because the paths are not joined. To join your paths, highlight the paths you wish to join and press the j key. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The spoil board needs to be resurfaced as grooves are cut into the surface. Grooves will release a percentage of the table vacuum and increase the risk of the material moving during cutting.    &lt;br /&gt;
*There are many bearing surfaces located on the router that need to be lubricated.  The router is equipped with a central lubrication system the technician will operate on a regular basis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cycle Oiler&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10199</id>
		<title>CNC Router</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10199"/>
		<updated>2022-06-24T18:35:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* Safety First */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number= 16124390&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Woodworking&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:CNC_router_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Smartshop2_Image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Laguna CNC Router&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Laguna&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=SmartShop II&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Luke Roderick;lroderick20@georgefox.edu &lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are multiple hazards you need to be aware of when using the CNC router.   &lt;br /&gt;
* The tooling is very sharp and spins at over 18,000 RPM. Keep your body parts away from the cutter and spindle. You need fingers for the ring you will get by spring.    &lt;br /&gt;
* Stay behind the yellow/black safety line when operating the router. The router is very large and will not stop if you get in its way.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Materials need to be securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means.&lt;br /&gt;
* This includes material that could be made loose during the cutting process. Use tabs to secure such material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Never attempt to cut a hole the same diameter as the cuter with a down cut force cutter.  This will compress the chips and can create a fire due to the air draw of the vacuum table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear ear protection when operating the CNC router.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Laguna SmartShop II is a CNC wood router capable of cutting out complex shapes that would otherwise be difficult to create by hand. Like all CNC machines, the SmartShop II is most useful when a design calls for a high level of precision, or is being mass produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_uOBg8Kc2k}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A90hoR7M1Ls&amp;amp;feature=emb_logo}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VswxAwtXKk}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*ZPO (Zero Point Offset) - The selected X and Y position on the material that coordinates with the program zero point.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Collet- A piece of machined steel that clamps down and locates the cutter in the tool holder. &lt;br /&gt;
*Dust Shroud- A combination of sheet metal and flexible brush material that performs a seal around the area of material during the cutting process. &lt;br /&gt;
*Spoil Board- A porous sacrificial board used on top of the router bed but under the work piece.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Regenerative Blower- This device produces the vacuum needed to pull material down onto the spoil board.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Holder- Cutters are placed in the tool holder and each holder gets pulled into the spindle during a tool change.&lt;br /&gt;
*Up Shear Router Bits- Normally used for deeper pockets as they evacuative chips better. &lt;br /&gt;
*Down Shear Router Bits- Normally used for shallow pockets and leaves a very clean edge. Tend to pile up the chips as they don't evacuate the chips very well.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Combination (Compression) Router Bits- Helps keep a good finish on the material when using a laminate on both sides.   &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Touch-Off- A process of setting the Z axis height of a tool using the sensor built into the machine.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:MCNCSS2 13032015 B&amp;amp;R.pdf|CNC Router User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To get started you will need to get a .DXF file from Solidworks or another program.  The .DXF file will need to be imported into VCarve Pro software. VCarve is used to create the G-code used by the router. You will select the type of cuts and tooling inside the software. Most cutting jobs can be done using a 1/4&amp;quot; cutter. A good rule of thumb is to not exceed the diameter of the tool in depth per pass. In foam or soft materials you can cut deeper per pass. The large switch near the middle of cabinet is the main power.  There is a key located on the control panel that also needs to be turned to the on position for the PC inside the machine to boot.  After power up, make sure the table is clear before pressing the home button.  The machine will move to the corner closest the control panel after moving the Z, X, and y axis to home position.  Always keep your body outside the safety line while the machine is moving.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration you will need to import a DXF file into VCarve Pro and convert it to G-code.  You will also need to demonstrate safe startup and use of the router using the G-code file you produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Open VCarvePro software. ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To start a new project, you must first select “Create a new file.”&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, you will be prompted to input the width, height, and thickness of the material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure that the Z Zero Position is set to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; Our Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Now select &amp;quot;import vector&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure all the imported pieces are close together, but make sure they don't overlap. &lt;br /&gt;
# Starting with the inside features, you will hold the shift key and select all of the holes. Once they are all selected, go to Tool Path and select the appropriate Profile or pocketing Tool Path. Choose your cut depth, tool, parameters, and then select OK. Double-check that Inside Cut is also selected, and check the box for Ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
# To save the inside cutout tool path, select Calculate and OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;preview selected tool path&amp;quot; to ensure the path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
# Switch back to the 2D view and begin the process for cutting out your design. This starts by holding down the shift key and selecting the items.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select VCarve, and make sure the settings are correct. If you are satisfied, select Calculate and OK again. You can preview this part of the process as well.&lt;br /&gt;
# Go back to the 2D view to begin the outside cutout process.&lt;br /&gt;
# Holding the shift key down, you can now select the outer pieces that need to be cut out. Then select Close on the right side of the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, choose Tool Path, select Outside Cut, and change your tool and parameters as needed. Check the box for adding a Ramp, and hit Calculate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Preview the entire process before saving the file.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you are happy with the design, select &amp;quot;Laguna SmartShop BR ATC(inch)(*prg)&amp;quot; post processor and &amp;quot;save toolpath(s)&amp;quot;. You can copy the files onto a flash drive to import into the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Detailed Procedure==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Software ===&lt;br /&gt;
VCarve Pro is the software used in conjunction with the CNC router and may be found on the eight rolling computers in the [[The Hub]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Job Setup ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the appropriate job type: single or double sided.&lt;br /&gt;
# Enter the size of your work-piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the Z Zero Position to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; The Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Vectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To Import the design you wish to cut go to File&amp;gt;Import&amp;gt;Import [your file type] and find your design. If you import a non-vector based design you will need to trace bitmap once imported.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select your design and use the arrow keys to position it to the desired location.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sometimes paths will not be joined properly (i.e. selecting one side of a rectangle does not select the entire rectangle). Vectors that aren't joined are treated as separate paths. Separate paths that should be joined may cause the bit to cut on the wrong side of the path. To join vectors simply press j to open the Join Vectors menu, select the vectors you wish to join and click Join.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Toolpaths ====&lt;br /&gt;
Creating tool-paths is a complex process that involves critical thinking and foresight into the cutting process. Please recognize that these instructions are by no means comprehensive and only address the simplest of the 2D tool paths features. If you wish to engrave, inlay, or do 3D carving do some research to determine the appropriate procedure. Finally, recognize that YOU ARE THE SAFETY MECHANISM on the CNC router. It will do what it is told even if that means crashing into the table or a tool holder because you accidentally told it to. All this to say that when you make a tool-path, be aware that the computer is dumb and will do what you tell it, not what you meant to tell it.&lt;br /&gt;
# To open the Toolpaths menu click the Toolpaths tab on the top right of your screen. Once the menu appears, turn off auto hide by clicking on the push pin icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Before defining any Toolpaths it is a good idea to open the material setup menu and double check that everything is set up correctly. &lt;br /&gt;
## Thickness: It is obviously important that the thickness of your material is accurate to avoid cutting deep into the spoil-board or not all the way through your part.&lt;br /&gt;
## XY Datum: Ensure that you understand where the datum is so you can accurately position your part inside your lumber.&lt;br /&gt;
## Z -Zero MUST be set to Machine Bed. (This has been mentioned many times because it is very important).&lt;br /&gt;
## Model Position in Material: This is for 3D carving and is used to tell the computer where you want to *gasp* position the model in the material.&lt;br /&gt;
## Rapid Z Gaps above Material: This is very important if you are using any clamps, jigs or anything that sticks above the surface of your material to secure it to the spoil-board. The rapid z clearance tells the computer how far above your material surface it is safe to do rapid movements during the cutting process. 0.2 inches is a good height if you don't need a fixture. Otherwise, make sure that it is set high enough so that you will not crash into your fixture. Plunge tells the computer the height it is OK to do a rapid plunge at. This value will typically be equal to the rapid z clearance. &lt;br /&gt;
## Home: Defines where the start position is. Do not change this setting.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always perform inside cuts and pockets prior to cutting the outline of your part. Failure to do so may result in incorrect geometry due to the part shifting during the cutting process. The goal here is to leave the part as stable as possible for as long as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General 2D Toolpath instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
# Cutting Depths: Start Depth tells the computer at what depth you wish to begin a cut. Unless you have already removed material over the entire path of the cut, the start depth should be zero. Cut depth is how deep you wish to cut. For a through cut set the cut depth equal to the thickness of the material. Do not set the cut depth deeper than the thickness of the material because it will cause unnecessary wear on the spoil board.&lt;br /&gt;
# Tool: Selecting your tool is important. For most operations a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill will be sufficient. The biggest things to be aware of are the tool number and spindle speed. The tool number tells the computer which tool it is to pick up. The CNC is dumb and will not know what tool it is holding at any given time. All it knows is the tool number. it is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL that you enter the correct tool number for all of your tools. Breaking off an end-mill spinning at 18000 rpm causing it to shoot across the room and impale you or your beloved engineering classmates will not win you favor. Also check that the rpm are appropriate, typically the default is fine. For a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill set the speed to 18000 rpm.&lt;br /&gt;
# Passes: Adjust the number of passes such that the pass depth is less than the diameter of the end mill you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ramp Plunge: This option plunges the end-mill on a ramp instead of going straight into the material. Generally it is wise to use this feature because it reduces the forces on the end-mill.&lt;br /&gt;
Pocket Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Profile Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
# Research! You are a capable engineering student. You can do 15 minutes of research on your own prior to step 2.&lt;br /&gt;
# Consult the ace and technician. They might ask you questions about what you want to make. It would be great if you came in with some knowledge about the process because you spent 4 minutes reading about how to do what you want to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Steps ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the Preview Toolpaths feature to double check your part. Make sure that any inner geometry is cut first. You may need to use the reset preview option.&lt;br /&gt;
# Briefly look through your material set up, tool selections, and settings to be certain that you have correctly programmed the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
# Check (again) that the z zero position has been set to Machine Bed. &lt;br /&gt;
# Select Save Toolpath. Be sure that the &amp;quot;Output all visible toolpaths to one file&amp;quot; box is selected. Check that all of your toolpaths appear underneath &amp;quot;Toolpaths to be saved...&amp;quot; The tools should have the correct tool size and location indicated. Select the appropriate post processor: Laguna SmartShop BR ATC (inch) (*.prg).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Operation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Startup ====&lt;br /&gt;
*Connect the pneumatic air line located on the tool holder end of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
*To power up the machine turn on the main power switch located on the base of the control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn on the key switch located near the screen located on the control panel and wait for the PC to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure all of the axis are clear to move.&lt;br /&gt;
*Select HOME and wait for the machine to move to the 0,0 position. You should never be on the machine side of the yellow/black tape on the floor when the machine is operating.&lt;br /&gt;
*To manually load/unload a tool in the spindle you will need to press the green button on the left side of the spindle while holding onto the tool holder OD. To insert the tool press the button and slide the tool holder up into the spindle.  To remove a tool press the button and tool will be ejected from the spindle. Do not allow your hands to make contact with the razor sharp cutting tool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Material ====&lt;br /&gt;
Only cut wood when operating this machine unless specific approval has been given by the technician.  Acrylic and foam may be cut with approval.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== End Mills ====&lt;br /&gt;
*We have a variety of tooling but the majority of cutting should be done with a 1/4&amp;quot; tool.  Talk with the technician while in the design phase.&lt;br /&gt;
*Whenever a tool is changed in the tool holder a touch off operation must be performed.  This will calculate the distance the tool is sticking out of the holder and prevent damage to the table and your work of art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Checks ====&lt;br /&gt;
There are some checks you should always do prior to running a program. Ask yourself the following questions before pressing the start button!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Is the material securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Is the dust collector turned on?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Has the zero point been set in the correct location?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Is the pneumatic line connected to the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Are the correct tools setup in the program and in their proper slot on the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Is everyone clear of the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Is the dust collection shroud going to collide with the material because I'm cutting beyond 3/4&amp;quot; deep?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Has the proper program been loaded?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Has the Z-zero position been set using the material bed and not the material surface?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cutting ====&lt;br /&gt;
Always keep your finger near the stop button when starting your program.  Most likely if something goes wrong it will happen early in the process so be ready to stop the machine. If you know the relationship between the brush on the dust shroud and the end of the tool you will have a good idea how deep the tool is when it cuts into the material. It is also very important to know what the program should be doing so you can verify the tool path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Reset the Space ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you have finished, park the cutting tool back into the storage rack at the end of the table. You will need to remove any material on the table and use the vacuum to clean off any leftover dust and chips.  You can use the dust collector or portable vacuum.  Make sure to disconnect the pneumatic air line and power down the machine with the spindle located off of the table.  This will prevent any leaking oil from dripping on the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*If none of the control functions on the control panel appear to work, make sure the machine has been homed and the E-stop is released. &lt;br /&gt;
*If the cutting tool height appears to be incorrect make sure the tool touch off has been performed for the tool in use.&lt;br /&gt;
*If your tool path appears on the inside of your part, it is likely because the paths are not joined. To join your paths, highlight the paths you wish to join and press the j key. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The spoil board needs to be resurfaced as grooves are cut into the surface. Grooves will release a percentage of the table vacuum and increase the risk of the material moving during cutting.    &lt;br /&gt;
*There are many bearing surfaces located on the router that need to be lubricated.  The router is equipped with a central lubrication system the technician will operate on a regular basis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cycle Oiler&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10198</id>
		<title>CNC Router</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10198"/>
		<updated>2022-06-24T18:35:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* Safety First */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number= 16124390&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Woodworking&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:CNC_router_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Smartshop2_Image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Laguna CNC Router&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Laguna&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=SmartShop II&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Luke Roderick;lroderick20@georgefox.edu &lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are multiple hazards you need to be aware of when using the CNC router.   &lt;br /&gt;
* The tooling is very sharp and spins at over 18,000 RPM. Keep your body parts away from the cutter and spindle. You need fingers for the ring you will get by spring.    &lt;br /&gt;
* Stay behind the yellow/black safety line when operating the router. The router is very large and will not stop if you get in its way.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Materials need to be securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means.&lt;br /&gt;
:::* This includes material that could be made loose during the cutting process. Use tabs to secure such material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Never attempt to cut a hole the same diameter as the cuter with a down cut force cutter.  This will compress the chips and can create a fire due to the air draw of the vacuum table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear ear protection when operating the CNC router.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Laguna SmartShop II is a CNC wood router capable of cutting out complex shapes that would otherwise be difficult to create by hand. Like all CNC machines, the SmartShop II is most useful when a design calls for a high level of precision, or is being mass produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_uOBg8Kc2k}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A90hoR7M1Ls&amp;amp;feature=emb_logo}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VswxAwtXKk}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*ZPO (Zero Point Offset) - The selected X and Y position on the material that coordinates with the program zero point.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Collet- A piece of machined steel that clamps down and locates the cutter in the tool holder. &lt;br /&gt;
*Dust Shroud- A combination of sheet metal and flexible brush material that performs a seal around the area of material during the cutting process. &lt;br /&gt;
*Spoil Board- A porous sacrificial board used on top of the router bed but under the work piece.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Regenerative Blower- This device produces the vacuum needed to pull material down onto the spoil board.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Holder- Cutters are placed in the tool holder and each holder gets pulled into the spindle during a tool change.&lt;br /&gt;
*Up Shear Router Bits- Normally used for deeper pockets as they evacuative chips better. &lt;br /&gt;
*Down Shear Router Bits- Normally used for shallow pockets and leaves a very clean edge. Tend to pile up the chips as they don't evacuate the chips very well.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Combination (Compression) Router Bits- Helps keep a good finish on the material when using a laminate on both sides.   &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Touch-Off- A process of setting the Z axis height of a tool using the sensor built into the machine.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:MCNCSS2 13032015 B&amp;amp;R.pdf|CNC Router User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To get started you will need to get a .DXF file from Solidworks or another program.  The .DXF file will need to be imported into VCarve Pro software. VCarve is used to create the G-code used by the router. You will select the type of cuts and tooling inside the software. Most cutting jobs can be done using a 1/4&amp;quot; cutter. A good rule of thumb is to not exceed the diameter of the tool in depth per pass. In foam or soft materials you can cut deeper per pass. The large switch near the middle of cabinet is the main power.  There is a key located on the control panel that also needs to be turned to the on position for the PC inside the machine to boot.  After power up, make sure the table is clear before pressing the home button.  The machine will move to the corner closest the control panel after moving the Z, X, and y axis to home position.  Always keep your body outside the safety line while the machine is moving.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration you will need to import a DXF file into VCarve Pro and convert it to G-code.  You will also need to demonstrate safe startup and use of the router using the G-code file you produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Open VCarvePro software. ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To start a new project, you must first select “Create a new file.”&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, you will be prompted to input the width, height, and thickness of the material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure that the Z Zero Position is set to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; Our Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Now select &amp;quot;import vector&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure all the imported pieces are close together, but make sure they don't overlap. &lt;br /&gt;
# Starting with the inside features, you will hold the shift key and select all of the holes. Once they are all selected, go to Tool Path and select the appropriate Profile or pocketing Tool Path. Choose your cut depth, tool, parameters, and then select OK. Double-check that Inside Cut is also selected, and check the box for Ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
# To save the inside cutout tool path, select Calculate and OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;preview selected tool path&amp;quot; to ensure the path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
# Switch back to the 2D view and begin the process for cutting out your design. This starts by holding down the shift key and selecting the items.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select VCarve, and make sure the settings are correct. If you are satisfied, select Calculate and OK again. You can preview this part of the process as well.&lt;br /&gt;
# Go back to the 2D view to begin the outside cutout process.&lt;br /&gt;
# Holding the shift key down, you can now select the outer pieces that need to be cut out. Then select Close on the right side of the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, choose Tool Path, select Outside Cut, and change your tool and parameters as needed. Check the box for adding a Ramp, and hit Calculate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Preview the entire process before saving the file.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you are happy with the design, select &amp;quot;Laguna SmartShop BR ATC(inch)(*prg)&amp;quot; post processor and &amp;quot;save toolpath(s)&amp;quot;. You can copy the files onto a flash drive to import into the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Detailed Procedure==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Software ===&lt;br /&gt;
VCarve Pro is the software used in conjunction with the CNC router and may be found on the eight rolling computers in the [[The Hub]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Job Setup ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the appropriate job type: single or double sided.&lt;br /&gt;
# Enter the size of your work-piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the Z Zero Position to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; The Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Vectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To Import the design you wish to cut go to File&amp;gt;Import&amp;gt;Import [your file type] and find your design. If you import a non-vector based design you will need to trace bitmap once imported.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select your design and use the arrow keys to position it to the desired location.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sometimes paths will not be joined properly (i.e. selecting one side of a rectangle does not select the entire rectangle). Vectors that aren't joined are treated as separate paths. Separate paths that should be joined may cause the bit to cut on the wrong side of the path. To join vectors simply press j to open the Join Vectors menu, select the vectors you wish to join and click Join.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Toolpaths ====&lt;br /&gt;
Creating tool-paths is a complex process that involves critical thinking and foresight into the cutting process. Please recognize that these instructions are by no means comprehensive and only address the simplest of the 2D tool paths features. If you wish to engrave, inlay, or do 3D carving do some research to determine the appropriate procedure. Finally, recognize that YOU ARE THE SAFETY MECHANISM on the CNC router. It will do what it is told even if that means crashing into the table or a tool holder because you accidentally told it to. All this to say that when you make a tool-path, be aware that the computer is dumb and will do what you tell it, not what you meant to tell it.&lt;br /&gt;
# To open the Toolpaths menu click the Toolpaths tab on the top right of your screen. Once the menu appears, turn off auto hide by clicking on the push pin icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Before defining any Toolpaths it is a good idea to open the material setup menu and double check that everything is set up correctly. &lt;br /&gt;
## Thickness: It is obviously important that the thickness of your material is accurate to avoid cutting deep into the spoil-board or not all the way through your part.&lt;br /&gt;
## XY Datum: Ensure that you understand where the datum is so you can accurately position your part inside your lumber.&lt;br /&gt;
## Z -Zero MUST be set to Machine Bed. (This has been mentioned many times because it is very important).&lt;br /&gt;
## Model Position in Material: This is for 3D carving and is used to tell the computer where you want to *gasp* position the model in the material.&lt;br /&gt;
## Rapid Z Gaps above Material: This is very important if you are using any clamps, jigs or anything that sticks above the surface of your material to secure it to the spoil-board. The rapid z clearance tells the computer how far above your material surface it is safe to do rapid movements during the cutting process. 0.2 inches is a good height if you don't need a fixture. Otherwise, make sure that it is set high enough so that you will not crash into your fixture. Plunge tells the computer the height it is OK to do a rapid plunge at. This value will typically be equal to the rapid z clearance. &lt;br /&gt;
## Home: Defines where the start position is. Do not change this setting.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always perform inside cuts and pockets prior to cutting the outline of your part. Failure to do so may result in incorrect geometry due to the part shifting during the cutting process. The goal here is to leave the part as stable as possible for as long as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General 2D Toolpath instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
# Cutting Depths: Start Depth tells the computer at what depth you wish to begin a cut. Unless you have already removed material over the entire path of the cut, the start depth should be zero. Cut depth is how deep you wish to cut. For a through cut set the cut depth equal to the thickness of the material. Do not set the cut depth deeper than the thickness of the material because it will cause unnecessary wear on the spoil board.&lt;br /&gt;
# Tool: Selecting your tool is important. For most operations a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill will be sufficient. The biggest things to be aware of are the tool number and spindle speed. The tool number tells the computer which tool it is to pick up. The CNC is dumb and will not know what tool it is holding at any given time. All it knows is the tool number. it is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL that you enter the correct tool number for all of your tools. Breaking off an end-mill spinning at 18000 rpm causing it to shoot across the room and impale you or your beloved engineering classmates will not win you favor. Also check that the rpm are appropriate, typically the default is fine. For a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill set the speed to 18000 rpm.&lt;br /&gt;
# Passes: Adjust the number of passes such that the pass depth is less than the diameter of the end mill you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ramp Plunge: This option plunges the end-mill on a ramp instead of going straight into the material. Generally it is wise to use this feature because it reduces the forces on the end-mill.&lt;br /&gt;
Pocket Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Profile Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
# Research! You are a capable engineering student. You can do 15 minutes of research on your own prior to step 2.&lt;br /&gt;
# Consult the ace and technician. They might ask you questions about what you want to make. It would be great if you came in with some knowledge about the process because you spent 4 minutes reading about how to do what you want to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Steps ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the Preview Toolpaths feature to double check your part. Make sure that any inner geometry is cut first. You may need to use the reset preview option.&lt;br /&gt;
# Briefly look through your material set up, tool selections, and settings to be certain that you have correctly programmed the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
# Check (again) that the z zero position has been set to Machine Bed. &lt;br /&gt;
# Select Save Toolpath. Be sure that the &amp;quot;Output all visible toolpaths to one file&amp;quot; box is selected. Check that all of your toolpaths appear underneath &amp;quot;Toolpaths to be saved...&amp;quot; The tools should have the correct tool size and location indicated. Select the appropriate post processor: Laguna SmartShop BR ATC (inch) (*.prg).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Operation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Startup ====&lt;br /&gt;
*Connect the pneumatic air line located on the tool holder end of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
*To power up the machine turn on the main power switch located on the base of the control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn on the key switch located near the screen located on the control panel and wait for the PC to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure all of the axis are clear to move.&lt;br /&gt;
*Select HOME and wait for the machine to move to the 0,0 position. You should never be on the machine side of the yellow/black tape on the floor when the machine is operating.&lt;br /&gt;
*To manually load/unload a tool in the spindle you will need to press the green button on the left side of the spindle while holding onto the tool holder OD. To insert the tool press the button and slide the tool holder up into the spindle.  To remove a tool press the button and tool will be ejected from the spindle. Do not allow your hands to make contact with the razor sharp cutting tool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Material ====&lt;br /&gt;
Only cut wood when operating this machine unless specific approval has been given by the technician.  Acrylic and foam may be cut with approval.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== End Mills ====&lt;br /&gt;
*We have a variety of tooling but the majority of cutting should be done with a 1/4&amp;quot; tool.  Talk with the technician while in the design phase.&lt;br /&gt;
*Whenever a tool is changed in the tool holder a touch off operation must be performed.  This will calculate the distance the tool is sticking out of the holder and prevent damage to the table and your work of art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Checks ====&lt;br /&gt;
There are some checks you should always do prior to running a program. Ask yourself the following questions before pressing the start button!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Is the material securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Is the dust collector turned on?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Has the zero point been set in the correct location?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Is the pneumatic line connected to the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Are the correct tools setup in the program and in their proper slot on the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Is everyone clear of the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Is the dust collection shroud going to collide with the material because I'm cutting beyond 3/4&amp;quot; deep?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Has the proper program been loaded?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Has the Z-zero position been set using the material bed and not the material surface?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cutting ====&lt;br /&gt;
Always keep your finger near the stop button when starting your program.  Most likely if something goes wrong it will happen early in the process so be ready to stop the machine. If you know the relationship between the brush on the dust shroud and the end of the tool you will have a good idea how deep the tool is when it cuts into the material. It is also very important to know what the program should be doing so you can verify the tool path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Reset the Space ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you have finished, park the cutting tool back into the storage rack at the end of the table. You will need to remove any material on the table and use the vacuum to clean off any leftover dust and chips.  You can use the dust collector or portable vacuum.  Make sure to disconnect the pneumatic air line and power down the machine with the spindle located off of the table.  This will prevent any leaking oil from dripping on the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*If none of the control functions on the control panel appear to work, make sure the machine has been homed and the E-stop is released. &lt;br /&gt;
*If the cutting tool height appears to be incorrect make sure the tool touch off has been performed for the tool in use.&lt;br /&gt;
*If your tool path appears on the inside of your part, it is likely because the paths are not joined. To join your paths, highlight the paths you wish to join and press the j key. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The spoil board needs to be resurfaced as grooves are cut into the surface. Grooves will release a percentage of the table vacuum and increase the risk of the material moving during cutting.    &lt;br /&gt;
*There are many bearing surfaces located on the router that need to be lubricated.  The router is equipped with a central lubrication system the technician will operate on a regular basis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cycle Oiler&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10197</id>
		<title>CNC Router</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10197"/>
		<updated>2022-06-24T18:34:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* Safety First */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number= 16124390&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Woodworking&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:CNC_router_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Smartshop2_Image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Laguna CNC Router&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Laguna&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=SmartShop II&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Luke Roderick;lroderick20@georgefox.edu &lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are multiple hazards you need to be aware of when using the CNC router.   &lt;br /&gt;
* The tooling is very sharp and spins at over 18,000 RPM. Keep your body parts away from the cutter and spindle. You need fingers for the ring you will get by spring.    &lt;br /&gt;
* Stay behind the yellow/black safety line when operating the router. The router is very large and will not stop if you get in its way.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Materials need to be securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means.&lt;br /&gt;
* This includes material that could be made loose during the cutting process. Use tabs to secure such material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Never attempt to cut a hole the same diameter as the cuter with a down cut force cutter.  This will compress the chips and can create a fire due to the air draw of the vacuum table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear ear protection when operating the CNC router.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Laguna SmartShop II is a CNC wood router capable of cutting out complex shapes that would otherwise be difficult to create by hand. Like all CNC machines, the SmartShop II is most useful when a design calls for a high level of precision, or is being mass produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_uOBg8Kc2k}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A90hoR7M1Ls&amp;amp;feature=emb_logo}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VswxAwtXKk}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*ZPO (Zero Point Offset) - The selected X and Y position on the material that coordinates with the program zero point.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Collet- A piece of machined steel that clamps down and locates the cutter in the tool holder. &lt;br /&gt;
*Dust Shroud- A combination of sheet metal and flexible brush material that performs a seal around the area of material during the cutting process. &lt;br /&gt;
*Spoil Board- A porous sacrificial board used on top of the router bed but under the work piece.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Regenerative Blower- This device produces the vacuum needed to pull material down onto the spoil board.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Holder- Cutters are placed in the tool holder and each holder gets pulled into the spindle during a tool change.&lt;br /&gt;
*Up Shear Router Bits- Normally used for deeper pockets as they evacuative chips better. &lt;br /&gt;
*Down Shear Router Bits- Normally used for shallow pockets and leaves a very clean edge. Tend to pile up the chips as they don't evacuate the chips very well.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Combination (Compression) Router Bits- Helps keep a good finish on the material when using a laminate on both sides.   &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Touch-Off- A process of setting the Z axis height of a tool using the sensor built into the machine.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:MCNCSS2 13032015 B&amp;amp;R.pdf|CNC Router User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To get started you will need to get a .DXF file from Solidworks or another program.  The .DXF file will need to be imported into VCarve Pro software. VCarve is used to create the G-code used by the router. You will select the type of cuts and tooling inside the software. Most cutting jobs can be done using a 1/4&amp;quot; cutter. A good rule of thumb is to not exceed the diameter of the tool in depth per pass. In foam or soft materials you can cut deeper per pass. The large switch near the middle of cabinet is the main power.  There is a key located on the control panel that also needs to be turned to the on position for the PC inside the machine to boot.  After power up, make sure the table is clear before pressing the home button.  The machine will move to the corner closest the control panel after moving the Z, X, and y axis to home position.  Always keep your body outside the safety line while the machine is moving.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration you will need to import a DXF file into VCarve Pro and convert it to G-code.  You will also need to demonstrate safe startup and use of the router using the G-code file you produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Open VCarvePro software. ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To start a new project, you must first select “Create a new file.”&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, you will be prompted to input the width, height, and thickness of the material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure that the Z Zero Position is set to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; Our Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Now select &amp;quot;import vector&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure all the imported pieces are close together, but make sure they don't overlap. &lt;br /&gt;
# Starting with the inside features, you will hold the shift key and select all of the holes. Once they are all selected, go to Tool Path and select the appropriate Profile or pocketing Tool Path. Choose your cut depth, tool, parameters, and then select OK. Double-check that Inside Cut is also selected, and check the box for Ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
# To save the inside cutout tool path, select Calculate and OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;preview selected tool path&amp;quot; to ensure the path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
# Switch back to the 2D view and begin the process for cutting out your design. This starts by holding down the shift key and selecting the items.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select VCarve, and make sure the settings are correct. If you are satisfied, select Calculate and OK again. You can preview this part of the process as well.&lt;br /&gt;
# Go back to the 2D view to begin the outside cutout process.&lt;br /&gt;
# Holding the shift key down, you can now select the outer pieces that need to be cut out. Then select Close on the right side of the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, choose Tool Path, select Outside Cut, and change your tool and parameters as needed. Check the box for adding a Ramp, and hit Calculate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Preview the entire process before saving the file.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you are happy with the design, select &amp;quot;Laguna SmartShop BR ATC(inch)(*prg)&amp;quot; post processor and &amp;quot;save toolpath(s)&amp;quot;. You can copy the files onto a flash drive to import into the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Detailed Procedure==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Software ===&lt;br /&gt;
VCarve Pro is the software used in conjunction with the CNC router and may be found on the eight rolling computers in the [[The Hub]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Job Setup ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the appropriate job type: single or double sided.&lt;br /&gt;
# Enter the size of your work-piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the Z Zero Position to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; The Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Vectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To Import the design you wish to cut go to File&amp;gt;Import&amp;gt;Import [your file type] and find your design. If you import a non-vector based design you will need to trace bitmap once imported.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select your design and use the arrow keys to position it to the desired location.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sometimes paths will not be joined properly (i.e. selecting one side of a rectangle does not select the entire rectangle). Vectors that aren't joined are treated as separate paths. Separate paths that should be joined may cause the bit to cut on the wrong side of the path. To join vectors simply press j to open the Join Vectors menu, select the vectors you wish to join and click Join.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Toolpaths ====&lt;br /&gt;
Creating tool-paths is a complex process that involves critical thinking and foresight into the cutting process. Please recognize that these instructions are by no means comprehensive and only address the simplest of the 2D tool paths features. If you wish to engrave, inlay, or do 3D carving do some research to determine the appropriate procedure. Finally, recognize that YOU ARE THE SAFETY MECHANISM on the CNC router. It will do what it is told even if that means crashing into the table or a tool holder because you accidentally told it to. All this to say that when you make a tool-path, be aware that the computer is dumb and will do what you tell it, not what you meant to tell it.&lt;br /&gt;
# To open the Toolpaths menu click the Toolpaths tab on the top right of your screen. Once the menu appears, turn off auto hide by clicking on the push pin icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Before defining any Toolpaths it is a good idea to open the material setup menu and double check that everything is set up correctly. &lt;br /&gt;
## Thickness: It is obviously important that the thickness of your material is accurate to avoid cutting deep into the spoil-board or not all the way through your part.&lt;br /&gt;
## XY Datum: Ensure that you understand where the datum is so you can accurately position your part inside your lumber.&lt;br /&gt;
## Z -Zero MUST be set to Machine Bed. (This has been mentioned many times because it is very important).&lt;br /&gt;
## Model Position in Material: This is for 3D carving and is used to tell the computer where you want to *gasp* position the model in the material.&lt;br /&gt;
## Rapid Z Gaps above Material: This is very important if you are using any clamps, jigs or anything that sticks above the surface of your material to secure it to the spoil-board. The rapid z clearance tells the computer how far above your material surface it is safe to do rapid movements during the cutting process. 0.2 inches is a good height if you don't need a fixture. Otherwise, make sure that it is set high enough so that you will not crash into your fixture. Plunge tells the computer the height it is OK to do a rapid plunge at. This value will typically be equal to the rapid z clearance. &lt;br /&gt;
## Home: Defines where the start position is. Do not change this setting.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always perform inside cuts and pockets prior to cutting the outline of your part. Failure to do so may result in incorrect geometry due to the part shifting during the cutting process. The goal here is to leave the part as stable as possible for as long as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General 2D Toolpath instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
# Cutting Depths: Start Depth tells the computer at what depth you wish to begin a cut. Unless you have already removed material over the entire path of the cut, the start depth should be zero. Cut depth is how deep you wish to cut. For a through cut set the cut depth equal to the thickness of the material. Do not set the cut depth deeper than the thickness of the material because it will cause unnecessary wear on the spoil board.&lt;br /&gt;
# Tool: Selecting your tool is important. For most operations a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill will be sufficient. The biggest things to be aware of are the tool number and spindle speed. The tool number tells the computer which tool it is to pick up. The CNC is dumb and will not know what tool it is holding at any given time. All it knows is the tool number. it is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL that you enter the correct tool number for all of your tools. Breaking off an end-mill spinning at 18000 rpm causing it to shoot across the room and impale you or your beloved engineering classmates will not win you favor. Also check that the rpm are appropriate, typically the default is fine. For a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill set the speed to 18000 rpm.&lt;br /&gt;
# Passes: Adjust the number of passes such that the pass depth is less than the diameter of the end mill you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ramp Plunge: This option plunges the end-mill on a ramp instead of going straight into the material. Generally it is wise to use this feature because it reduces the forces on the end-mill.&lt;br /&gt;
Pocket Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Profile Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
# Research! You are a capable engineering student. You can do 15 minutes of research on your own prior to step 2.&lt;br /&gt;
# Consult the ace and technician. They might ask you questions about what you want to make. It would be great if you came in with some knowledge about the process because you spent 4 minutes reading about how to do what you want to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Steps ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the Preview Toolpaths feature to double check your part. Make sure that any inner geometry is cut first. You may need to use the reset preview option.&lt;br /&gt;
# Briefly look through your material set up, tool selections, and settings to be certain that you have correctly programmed the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
# Check (again) that the z zero position has been set to Machine Bed. &lt;br /&gt;
# Select Save Toolpath. Be sure that the &amp;quot;Output all visible toolpaths to one file&amp;quot; box is selected. Check that all of your toolpaths appear underneath &amp;quot;Toolpaths to be saved...&amp;quot; The tools should have the correct tool size and location indicated. Select the appropriate post processor: Laguna SmartShop BR ATC (inch) (*.prg).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Operation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Startup ====&lt;br /&gt;
*Connect the pneumatic air line located on the tool holder end of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
*To power up the machine turn on the main power switch located on the base of the control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn on the key switch located near the screen located on the control panel and wait for the PC to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure all of the axis are clear to move.&lt;br /&gt;
*Select HOME and wait for the machine to move to the 0,0 position. You should never be on the machine side of the yellow/black tape on the floor when the machine is operating.&lt;br /&gt;
*To manually load/unload a tool in the spindle you will need to press the green button on the left side of the spindle while holding onto the tool holder OD. To insert the tool press the button and slide the tool holder up into the spindle.  To remove a tool press the button and tool will be ejected from the spindle. Do not allow your hands to make contact with the razor sharp cutting tool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Material ====&lt;br /&gt;
Only cut wood when operating this machine unless specific approval has been given by the technician.  Acrylic and foam may be cut with approval.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== End Mills ====&lt;br /&gt;
*We have a variety of tooling but the majority of cutting should be done with a 1/4&amp;quot; tool.  Talk with the technician while in the design phase.&lt;br /&gt;
*Whenever a tool is changed in the tool holder a touch off operation must be performed.  This will calculate the distance the tool is sticking out of the holder and prevent damage to the table and your work of art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Checks ====&lt;br /&gt;
There are some checks you should always do prior to running a program. Ask yourself the following questions before pressing the start button!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Is the material securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Is the dust collector turned on?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Has the zero point been set in the correct location?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Is the pneumatic line connected to the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Are the correct tools setup in the program and in their proper slot on the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Is everyone clear of the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Is the dust collection shroud going to collide with the material because I'm cutting beyond 3/4&amp;quot; deep?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Has the proper program been loaded?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Has the Z-zero position been set using the material bed and not the material surface?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cutting ====&lt;br /&gt;
Always keep your finger near the stop button when starting your program.  Most likely if something goes wrong it will happen early in the process so be ready to stop the machine. If you know the relationship between the brush on the dust shroud and the end of the tool you will have a good idea how deep the tool is when it cuts into the material. It is also very important to know what the program should be doing so you can verify the tool path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Reset the Space ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you have finished, park the cutting tool back into the storage rack at the end of the table. You will need to remove any material on the table and use the vacuum to clean off any leftover dust and chips.  You can use the dust collector or portable vacuum.  Make sure to disconnect the pneumatic air line and power down the machine with the spindle located off of the table.  This will prevent any leaking oil from dripping on the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*If none of the control functions on the control panel appear to work, make sure the machine has been homed and the E-stop is released. &lt;br /&gt;
*If the cutting tool height appears to be incorrect make sure the tool touch off has been performed for the tool in use.&lt;br /&gt;
*If your tool path appears on the inside of your part, it is likely because the paths are not joined. To join your paths, highlight the paths you wish to join and press the j key. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The spoil board needs to be resurfaced as grooves are cut into the surface. Grooves will release a percentage of the table vacuum and increase the risk of the material moving during cutting.    &lt;br /&gt;
*There are many bearing surfaces located on the router that need to be lubricated.  The router is equipped with a central lubrication system the technician will operate on a regular basis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cycle Oiler&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10196</id>
		<title>CNC Router</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10196"/>
		<updated>2022-06-24T18:34:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* Safety First */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number= 16124390&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Woodworking&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:CNC_router_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Smartshop2_Image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Laguna CNC Router&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Laguna&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=SmartShop II&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Luke Roderick;lroderick20@georgefox.edu &lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are multiple hazards you need to be aware of when using the CNC router.   &lt;br /&gt;
* The tooling is very sharp and spins at over 18,000 RPM. Keep your body parts away from the cutter and spindle. You need fingers for the ring you will get by spring.    &lt;br /&gt;
* Stay behind the yellow/black safety line when operating the router. The router is very large and will not stop if you get in its way.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Materials need to be securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means.&lt;br /&gt;
: This includes material that could be made loose during the cutting process. Use tabs to secure such material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Never attempt to cut a hole the same diameter as the cuter with a down cut force cutter.  This will compress the chips and can create a fire due to the air draw of the vacuum table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear ear protection when operating the CNC router.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Laguna SmartShop II is a CNC wood router capable of cutting out complex shapes that would otherwise be difficult to create by hand. Like all CNC machines, the SmartShop II is most useful when a design calls for a high level of precision, or is being mass produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_uOBg8Kc2k}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A90hoR7M1Ls&amp;amp;feature=emb_logo}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VswxAwtXKk}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*ZPO (Zero Point Offset) - The selected X and Y position on the material that coordinates with the program zero point.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Collet- A piece of machined steel that clamps down and locates the cutter in the tool holder. &lt;br /&gt;
*Dust Shroud- A combination of sheet metal and flexible brush material that performs a seal around the area of material during the cutting process. &lt;br /&gt;
*Spoil Board- A porous sacrificial board used on top of the router bed but under the work piece.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Regenerative Blower- This device produces the vacuum needed to pull material down onto the spoil board.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Holder- Cutters are placed in the tool holder and each holder gets pulled into the spindle during a tool change.&lt;br /&gt;
*Up Shear Router Bits- Normally used for deeper pockets as they evacuative chips better. &lt;br /&gt;
*Down Shear Router Bits- Normally used for shallow pockets and leaves a very clean edge. Tend to pile up the chips as they don't evacuate the chips very well.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Combination (Compression) Router Bits- Helps keep a good finish on the material when using a laminate on both sides.   &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Touch-Off- A process of setting the Z axis height of a tool using the sensor built into the machine.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:MCNCSS2 13032015 B&amp;amp;R.pdf|CNC Router User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To get started you will need to get a .DXF file from Solidworks or another program.  The .DXF file will need to be imported into VCarve Pro software. VCarve is used to create the G-code used by the router. You will select the type of cuts and tooling inside the software. Most cutting jobs can be done using a 1/4&amp;quot; cutter. A good rule of thumb is to not exceed the diameter of the tool in depth per pass. In foam or soft materials you can cut deeper per pass. The large switch near the middle of cabinet is the main power.  There is a key located on the control panel that also needs to be turned to the on position for the PC inside the machine to boot.  After power up, make sure the table is clear before pressing the home button.  The machine will move to the corner closest the control panel after moving the Z, X, and y axis to home position.  Always keep your body outside the safety line while the machine is moving.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration you will need to import a DXF file into VCarve Pro and convert it to G-code.  You will also need to demonstrate safe startup and use of the router using the G-code file you produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Open VCarvePro software. ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To start a new project, you must first select “Create a new file.”&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, you will be prompted to input the width, height, and thickness of the material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure that the Z Zero Position is set to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; Our Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Now select &amp;quot;import vector&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure all the imported pieces are close together, but make sure they don't overlap. &lt;br /&gt;
# Starting with the inside features, you will hold the shift key and select all of the holes. Once they are all selected, go to Tool Path and select the appropriate Profile or pocketing Tool Path. Choose your cut depth, tool, parameters, and then select OK. Double-check that Inside Cut is also selected, and check the box for Ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
# To save the inside cutout tool path, select Calculate and OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;preview selected tool path&amp;quot; to ensure the path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
# Switch back to the 2D view and begin the process for cutting out your design. This starts by holding down the shift key and selecting the items.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select VCarve, and make sure the settings are correct. If you are satisfied, select Calculate and OK again. You can preview this part of the process as well.&lt;br /&gt;
# Go back to the 2D view to begin the outside cutout process.&lt;br /&gt;
# Holding the shift key down, you can now select the outer pieces that need to be cut out. Then select Close on the right side of the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, choose Tool Path, select Outside Cut, and change your tool and parameters as needed. Check the box for adding a Ramp, and hit Calculate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Preview the entire process before saving the file.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you are happy with the design, select &amp;quot;Laguna SmartShop BR ATC(inch)(*prg)&amp;quot; post processor and &amp;quot;save toolpath(s)&amp;quot;. You can copy the files onto a flash drive to import into the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Detailed Procedure==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Software ===&lt;br /&gt;
VCarve Pro is the software used in conjunction with the CNC router and may be found on the eight rolling computers in the [[The Hub]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Job Setup ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the appropriate job type: single or double sided.&lt;br /&gt;
# Enter the size of your work-piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the Z Zero Position to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; The Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Vectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To Import the design you wish to cut go to File&amp;gt;Import&amp;gt;Import [your file type] and find your design. If you import a non-vector based design you will need to trace bitmap once imported.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select your design and use the arrow keys to position it to the desired location.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sometimes paths will not be joined properly (i.e. selecting one side of a rectangle does not select the entire rectangle). Vectors that aren't joined are treated as separate paths. Separate paths that should be joined may cause the bit to cut on the wrong side of the path. To join vectors simply press j to open the Join Vectors menu, select the vectors you wish to join and click Join.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Toolpaths ====&lt;br /&gt;
Creating tool-paths is a complex process that involves critical thinking and foresight into the cutting process. Please recognize that these instructions are by no means comprehensive and only address the simplest of the 2D tool paths features. If you wish to engrave, inlay, or do 3D carving do some research to determine the appropriate procedure. Finally, recognize that YOU ARE THE SAFETY MECHANISM on the CNC router. It will do what it is told even if that means crashing into the table or a tool holder because you accidentally told it to. All this to say that when you make a tool-path, be aware that the computer is dumb and will do what you tell it, not what you meant to tell it.&lt;br /&gt;
# To open the Toolpaths menu click the Toolpaths tab on the top right of your screen. Once the menu appears, turn off auto hide by clicking on the push pin icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Before defining any Toolpaths it is a good idea to open the material setup menu and double check that everything is set up correctly. &lt;br /&gt;
## Thickness: It is obviously important that the thickness of your material is accurate to avoid cutting deep into the spoil-board or not all the way through your part.&lt;br /&gt;
## XY Datum: Ensure that you understand where the datum is so you can accurately position your part inside your lumber.&lt;br /&gt;
## Z -Zero MUST be set to Machine Bed. (This has been mentioned many times because it is very important).&lt;br /&gt;
## Model Position in Material: This is for 3D carving and is used to tell the computer where you want to *gasp* position the model in the material.&lt;br /&gt;
## Rapid Z Gaps above Material: This is very important if you are using any clamps, jigs or anything that sticks above the surface of your material to secure it to the spoil-board. The rapid z clearance tells the computer how far above your material surface it is safe to do rapid movements during the cutting process. 0.2 inches is a good height if you don't need a fixture. Otherwise, make sure that it is set high enough so that you will not crash into your fixture. Plunge tells the computer the height it is OK to do a rapid plunge at. This value will typically be equal to the rapid z clearance. &lt;br /&gt;
## Home: Defines where the start position is. Do not change this setting.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always perform inside cuts and pockets prior to cutting the outline of your part. Failure to do so may result in incorrect geometry due to the part shifting during the cutting process. The goal here is to leave the part as stable as possible for as long as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General 2D Toolpath instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
# Cutting Depths: Start Depth tells the computer at what depth you wish to begin a cut. Unless you have already removed material over the entire path of the cut, the start depth should be zero. Cut depth is how deep you wish to cut. For a through cut set the cut depth equal to the thickness of the material. Do not set the cut depth deeper than the thickness of the material because it will cause unnecessary wear on the spoil board.&lt;br /&gt;
# Tool: Selecting your tool is important. For most operations a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill will be sufficient. The biggest things to be aware of are the tool number and spindle speed. The tool number tells the computer which tool it is to pick up. The CNC is dumb and will not know what tool it is holding at any given time. All it knows is the tool number. it is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL that you enter the correct tool number for all of your tools. Breaking off an end-mill spinning at 18000 rpm causing it to shoot across the room and impale you or your beloved engineering classmates will not win you favor. Also check that the rpm are appropriate, typically the default is fine. For a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill set the speed to 18000 rpm.&lt;br /&gt;
# Passes: Adjust the number of passes such that the pass depth is less than the diameter of the end mill you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ramp Plunge: This option plunges the end-mill on a ramp instead of going straight into the material. Generally it is wise to use this feature because it reduces the forces on the end-mill.&lt;br /&gt;
Pocket Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Profile Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
# Research! You are a capable engineering student. You can do 15 minutes of research on your own prior to step 2.&lt;br /&gt;
# Consult the ace and technician. They might ask you questions about what you want to make. It would be great if you came in with some knowledge about the process because you spent 4 minutes reading about how to do what you want to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Steps ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the Preview Toolpaths feature to double check your part. Make sure that any inner geometry is cut first. You may need to use the reset preview option.&lt;br /&gt;
# Briefly look through your material set up, tool selections, and settings to be certain that you have correctly programmed the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
# Check (again) that the z zero position has been set to Machine Bed. &lt;br /&gt;
# Select Save Toolpath. Be sure that the &amp;quot;Output all visible toolpaths to one file&amp;quot; box is selected. Check that all of your toolpaths appear underneath &amp;quot;Toolpaths to be saved...&amp;quot; The tools should have the correct tool size and location indicated. Select the appropriate post processor: Laguna SmartShop BR ATC (inch) (*.prg).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Operation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Startup ====&lt;br /&gt;
*Connect the pneumatic air line located on the tool holder end of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
*To power up the machine turn on the main power switch located on the base of the control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn on the key switch located near the screen located on the control panel and wait for the PC to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure all of the axis are clear to move.&lt;br /&gt;
*Select HOME and wait for the machine to move to the 0,0 position. You should never be on the machine side of the yellow/black tape on the floor when the machine is operating.&lt;br /&gt;
*To manually load/unload a tool in the spindle you will need to press the green button on the left side of the spindle while holding onto the tool holder OD. To insert the tool press the button and slide the tool holder up into the spindle.  To remove a tool press the button and tool will be ejected from the spindle. Do not allow your hands to make contact with the razor sharp cutting tool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Material ====&lt;br /&gt;
Only cut wood when operating this machine unless specific approval has been given by the technician.  Acrylic and foam may be cut with approval.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== End Mills ====&lt;br /&gt;
*We have a variety of tooling but the majority of cutting should be done with a 1/4&amp;quot; tool.  Talk with the technician while in the design phase.&lt;br /&gt;
*Whenever a tool is changed in the tool holder a touch off operation must be performed.  This will calculate the distance the tool is sticking out of the holder and prevent damage to the table and your work of art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Checks ====&lt;br /&gt;
There are some checks you should always do prior to running a program. Ask yourself the following questions before pressing the start button!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Is the material securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Is the dust collector turned on?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Has the zero point been set in the correct location?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Is the pneumatic line connected to the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Are the correct tools setup in the program and in their proper slot on the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Is everyone clear of the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Is the dust collection shroud going to collide with the material because I'm cutting beyond 3/4&amp;quot; deep?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Has the proper program been loaded?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Has the Z-zero position been set using the material bed and not the material surface?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cutting ====&lt;br /&gt;
Always keep your finger near the stop button when starting your program.  Most likely if something goes wrong it will happen early in the process so be ready to stop the machine. If you know the relationship between the brush on the dust shroud and the end of the tool you will have a good idea how deep the tool is when it cuts into the material. It is also very important to know what the program should be doing so you can verify the tool path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Reset the Space ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you have finished, park the cutting tool back into the storage rack at the end of the table. You will need to remove any material on the table and use the vacuum to clean off any leftover dust and chips.  You can use the dust collector or portable vacuum.  Make sure to disconnect the pneumatic air line and power down the machine with the spindle located off of the table.  This will prevent any leaking oil from dripping on the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*If none of the control functions on the control panel appear to work, make sure the machine has been homed and the E-stop is released. &lt;br /&gt;
*If the cutting tool height appears to be incorrect make sure the tool touch off has been performed for the tool in use.&lt;br /&gt;
*If your tool path appears on the inside of your part, it is likely because the paths are not joined. To join your paths, highlight the paths you wish to join and press the j key. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The spoil board needs to be resurfaced as grooves are cut into the surface. Grooves will release a percentage of the table vacuum and increase the risk of the material moving during cutting.    &lt;br /&gt;
*There are many bearing surfaces located on the router that need to be lubricated.  The router is equipped with a central lubrication system the technician will operate on a regular basis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cycle Oiler&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10195</id>
		<title>CNC Router</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10195"/>
		<updated>2022-06-24T18:34:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* Safety First */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number= 16124390&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Woodworking&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:CNC_router_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Smartshop2_Image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Laguna CNC Router&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Laguna&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=SmartShop II&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Luke Roderick;lroderick20@georgefox.edu &lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are multiple hazards you need to be aware of when using the CNC router.   &lt;br /&gt;
* The tooling is very sharp and spins at over 18,000 RPM. Keep your body parts away from the cutter and spindle. You need fingers for the ring you will get by spring.    &lt;br /&gt;
* Stay behind the yellow/black safety line when operating the router. The router is very large and will not stop if you get in its way.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Materials need to be securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means.&lt;br /&gt;
:* This includes material that could be made loose during the cutting process. Use tabs to secure such material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Never attempt to cut a hole the same diameter as the cuter with a down cut force cutter.  This will compress the chips and can create a fire due to the air draw of the vacuum table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear ear protection when operating the CNC router.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Laguna SmartShop II is a CNC wood router capable of cutting out complex shapes that would otherwise be difficult to create by hand. Like all CNC machines, the SmartShop II is most useful when a design calls for a high level of precision, or is being mass produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_uOBg8Kc2k}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A90hoR7M1Ls&amp;amp;feature=emb_logo}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VswxAwtXKk}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*ZPO (Zero Point Offset) - The selected X and Y position on the material that coordinates with the program zero point.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Collet- A piece of machined steel that clamps down and locates the cutter in the tool holder. &lt;br /&gt;
*Dust Shroud- A combination of sheet metal and flexible brush material that performs a seal around the area of material during the cutting process. &lt;br /&gt;
*Spoil Board- A porous sacrificial board used on top of the router bed but under the work piece.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Regenerative Blower- This device produces the vacuum needed to pull material down onto the spoil board.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Holder- Cutters are placed in the tool holder and each holder gets pulled into the spindle during a tool change.&lt;br /&gt;
*Up Shear Router Bits- Normally used for deeper pockets as they evacuative chips better. &lt;br /&gt;
*Down Shear Router Bits- Normally used for shallow pockets and leaves a very clean edge. Tend to pile up the chips as they don't evacuate the chips very well.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Combination (Compression) Router Bits- Helps keep a good finish on the material when using a laminate on both sides.   &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Touch-Off- A process of setting the Z axis height of a tool using the sensor built into the machine.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:MCNCSS2 13032015 B&amp;amp;R.pdf|CNC Router User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To get started you will need to get a .DXF file from Solidworks or another program.  The .DXF file will need to be imported into VCarve Pro software. VCarve is used to create the G-code used by the router. You will select the type of cuts and tooling inside the software. Most cutting jobs can be done using a 1/4&amp;quot; cutter. A good rule of thumb is to not exceed the diameter of the tool in depth per pass. In foam or soft materials you can cut deeper per pass. The large switch near the middle of cabinet is the main power.  There is a key located on the control panel that also needs to be turned to the on position for the PC inside the machine to boot.  After power up, make sure the table is clear before pressing the home button.  The machine will move to the corner closest the control panel after moving the Z, X, and y axis to home position.  Always keep your body outside the safety line while the machine is moving.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration you will need to import a DXF file into VCarve Pro and convert it to G-code.  You will also need to demonstrate safe startup and use of the router using the G-code file you produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Open VCarvePro software. ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To start a new project, you must first select “Create a new file.”&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, you will be prompted to input the width, height, and thickness of the material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure that the Z Zero Position is set to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; Our Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Now select &amp;quot;import vector&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure all the imported pieces are close together, but make sure they don't overlap. &lt;br /&gt;
# Starting with the inside features, you will hold the shift key and select all of the holes. Once they are all selected, go to Tool Path and select the appropriate Profile or pocketing Tool Path. Choose your cut depth, tool, parameters, and then select OK. Double-check that Inside Cut is also selected, and check the box for Ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
# To save the inside cutout tool path, select Calculate and OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;preview selected tool path&amp;quot; to ensure the path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
# Switch back to the 2D view and begin the process for cutting out your design. This starts by holding down the shift key and selecting the items.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select VCarve, and make sure the settings are correct. If you are satisfied, select Calculate and OK again. You can preview this part of the process as well.&lt;br /&gt;
# Go back to the 2D view to begin the outside cutout process.&lt;br /&gt;
# Holding the shift key down, you can now select the outer pieces that need to be cut out. Then select Close on the right side of the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, choose Tool Path, select Outside Cut, and change your tool and parameters as needed. Check the box for adding a Ramp, and hit Calculate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Preview the entire process before saving the file.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you are happy with the design, select &amp;quot;Laguna SmartShop BR ATC(inch)(*prg)&amp;quot; post processor and &amp;quot;save toolpath(s)&amp;quot;. You can copy the files onto a flash drive to import into the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Detailed Procedure==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Software ===&lt;br /&gt;
VCarve Pro is the software used in conjunction with the CNC router and may be found on the eight rolling computers in the [[The Hub]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Job Setup ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the appropriate job type: single or double sided.&lt;br /&gt;
# Enter the size of your work-piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the Z Zero Position to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; The Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Vectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To Import the design you wish to cut go to File&amp;gt;Import&amp;gt;Import [your file type] and find your design. If you import a non-vector based design you will need to trace bitmap once imported.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select your design and use the arrow keys to position it to the desired location.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sometimes paths will not be joined properly (i.e. selecting one side of a rectangle does not select the entire rectangle). Vectors that aren't joined are treated as separate paths. Separate paths that should be joined may cause the bit to cut on the wrong side of the path. To join vectors simply press j to open the Join Vectors menu, select the vectors you wish to join and click Join.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Toolpaths ====&lt;br /&gt;
Creating tool-paths is a complex process that involves critical thinking and foresight into the cutting process. Please recognize that these instructions are by no means comprehensive and only address the simplest of the 2D tool paths features. If you wish to engrave, inlay, or do 3D carving do some research to determine the appropriate procedure. Finally, recognize that YOU ARE THE SAFETY MECHANISM on the CNC router. It will do what it is told even if that means crashing into the table or a tool holder because you accidentally told it to. All this to say that when you make a tool-path, be aware that the computer is dumb and will do what you tell it, not what you meant to tell it.&lt;br /&gt;
# To open the Toolpaths menu click the Toolpaths tab on the top right of your screen. Once the menu appears, turn off auto hide by clicking on the push pin icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Before defining any Toolpaths it is a good idea to open the material setup menu and double check that everything is set up correctly. &lt;br /&gt;
## Thickness: It is obviously important that the thickness of your material is accurate to avoid cutting deep into the spoil-board or not all the way through your part.&lt;br /&gt;
## XY Datum: Ensure that you understand where the datum is so you can accurately position your part inside your lumber.&lt;br /&gt;
## Z -Zero MUST be set to Machine Bed. (This has been mentioned many times because it is very important).&lt;br /&gt;
## Model Position in Material: This is for 3D carving and is used to tell the computer where you want to *gasp* position the model in the material.&lt;br /&gt;
## Rapid Z Gaps above Material: This is very important if you are using any clamps, jigs or anything that sticks above the surface of your material to secure it to the spoil-board. The rapid z clearance tells the computer how far above your material surface it is safe to do rapid movements during the cutting process. 0.2 inches is a good height if you don't need a fixture. Otherwise, make sure that it is set high enough so that you will not crash into your fixture. Plunge tells the computer the height it is OK to do a rapid plunge at. This value will typically be equal to the rapid z clearance. &lt;br /&gt;
## Home: Defines where the start position is. Do not change this setting.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always perform inside cuts and pockets prior to cutting the outline of your part. Failure to do so may result in incorrect geometry due to the part shifting during the cutting process. The goal here is to leave the part as stable as possible for as long as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General 2D Toolpath instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
# Cutting Depths: Start Depth tells the computer at what depth you wish to begin a cut. Unless you have already removed material over the entire path of the cut, the start depth should be zero. Cut depth is how deep you wish to cut. For a through cut set the cut depth equal to the thickness of the material. Do not set the cut depth deeper than the thickness of the material because it will cause unnecessary wear on the spoil board.&lt;br /&gt;
# Tool: Selecting your tool is important. For most operations a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill will be sufficient. The biggest things to be aware of are the tool number and spindle speed. The tool number tells the computer which tool it is to pick up. The CNC is dumb and will not know what tool it is holding at any given time. All it knows is the tool number. it is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL that you enter the correct tool number for all of your tools. Breaking off an end-mill spinning at 18000 rpm causing it to shoot across the room and impale you or your beloved engineering classmates will not win you favor. Also check that the rpm are appropriate, typically the default is fine. For a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill set the speed to 18000 rpm.&lt;br /&gt;
# Passes: Adjust the number of passes such that the pass depth is less than the diameter of the end mill you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ramp Plunge: This option plunges the end-mill on a ramp instead of going straight into the material. Generally it is wise to use this feature because it reduces the forces on the end-mill.&lt;br /&gt;
Pocket Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Profile Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
# Research! You are a capable engineering student. You can do 15 minutes of research on your own prior to step 2.&lt;br /&gt;
# Consult the ace and technician. They might ask you questions about what you want to make. It would be great if you came in with some knowledge about the process because you spent 4 minutes reading about how to do what you want to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Steps ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the Preview Toolpaths feature to double check your part. Make sure that any inner geometry is cut first. You may need to use the reset preview option.&lt;br /&gt;
# Briefly look through your material set up, tool selections, and settings to be certain that you have correctly programmed the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
# Check (again) that the z zero position has been set to Machine Bed. &lt;br /&gt;
# Select Save Toolpath. Be sure that the &amp;quot;Output all visible toolpaths to one file&amp;quot; box is selected. Check that all of your toolpaths appear underneath &amp;quot;Toolpaths to be saved...&amp;quot; The tools should have the correct tool size and location indicated. Select the appropriate post processor: Laguna SmartShop BR ATC (inch) (*.prg).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Operation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Startup ====&lt;br /&gt;
*Connect the pneumatic air line located on the tool holder end of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
*To power up the machine turn on the main power switch located on the base of the control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn on the key switch located near the screen located on the control panel and wait for the PC to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure all of the axis are clear to move.&lt;br /&gt;
*Select HOME and wait for the machine to move to the 0,0 position. You should never be on the machine side of the yellow/black tape on the floor when the machine is operating.&lt;br /&gt;
*To manually load/unload a tool in the spindle you will need to press the green button on the left side of the spindle while holding onto the tool holder OD. To insert the tool press the button and slide the tool holder up into the spindle.  To remove a tool press the button and tool will be ejected from the spindle. Do not allow your hands to make contact with the razor sharp cutting tool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Material ====&lt;br /&gt;
Only cut wood when operating this machine unless specific approval has been given by the technician.  Acrylic and foam may be cut with approval.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== End Mills ====&lt;br /&gt;
*We have a variety of tooling but the majority of cutting should be done with a 1/4&amp;quot; tool.  Talk with the technician while in the design phase.&lt;br /&gt;
*Whenever a tool is changed in the tool holder a touch off operation must be performed.  This will calculate the distance the tool is sticking out of the holder and prevent damage to the table and your work of art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Checks ====&lt;br /&gt;
There are some checks you should always do prior to running a program. Ask yourself the following questions before pressing the start button!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Is the material securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Is the dust collector turned on?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Has the zero point been set in the correct location?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Is the pneumatic line connected to the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Are the correct tools setup in the program and in their proper slot on the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Is everyone clear of the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Is the dust collection shroud going to collide with the material because I'm cutting beyond 3/4&amp;quot; deep?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Has the proper program been loaded?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Has the Z-zero position been set using the material bed and not the material surface?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cutting ====&lt;br /&gt;
Always keep your finger near the stop button when starting your program.  Most likely if something goes wrong it will happen early in the process so be ready to stop the machine. If you know the relationship between the brush on the dust shroud and the end of the tool you will have a good idea how deep the tool is when it cuts into the material. It is also very important to know what the program should be doing so you can verify the tool path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Reset the Space ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you have finished, park the cutting tool back into the storage rack at the end of the table. You will need to remove any material on the table and use the vacuum to clean off any leftover dust and chips.  You can use the dust collector or portable vacuum.  Make sure to disconnect the pneumatic air line and power down the machine with the spindle located off of the table.  This will prevent any leaking oil from dripping on the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*If none of the control functions on the control panel appear to work, make sure the machine has been homed and the E-stop is released. &lt;br /&gt;
*If the cutting tool height appears to be incorrect make sure the tool touch off has been performed for the tool in use.&lt;br /&gt;
*If your tool path appears on the inside of your part, it is likely because the paths are not joined. To join your paths, highlight the paths you wish to join and press the j key. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The spoil board needs to be resurfaced as grooves are cut into the surface. Grooves will release a percentage of the table vacuum and increase the risk of the material moving during cutting.    &lt;br /&gt;
*There are many bearing surfaces located on the router that need to be lubricated.  The router is equipped with a central lubrication system the technician will operate on a regular basis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cycle Oiler&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10194</id>
		<title>CNC Router</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10194"/>
		<updated>2022-06-24T18:33:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* Safety First */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number= 16124390&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Woodworking&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:CNC_router_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Smartshop2_Image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Laguna CNC Router&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Laguna&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=SmartShop II&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Luke Roderick;lroderick20@georgefox.edu &lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are multiple hazards you need to be aware of when using the CNC router.   &lt;br /&gt;
* The tooling is very sharp and spins at over 18,000 RPM. Keep your body parts away from the cutter and spindle. You need fingers for the ring you will get by spring.    &lt;br /&gt;
* Stay behind the yellow/black safety line when operating the router. The router is very large and will not stop if you get in its way.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Materials need to be securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means.&lt;br /&gt;
*                   This includes material that could be made loose during the cutting process. Use tabs to secure such material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Never attempt to cut a hole the same diameter as the cuter with a down cut force cutter.  This will compress the chips and can create a fire due to the air draw of the vacuum table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear ear protection when operating the CNC router.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Laguna SmartShop II is a CNC wood router capable of cutting out complex shapes that would otherwise be difficult to create by hand. Like all CNC machines, the SmartShop II is most useful when a design calls for a high level of precision, or is being mass produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_uOBg8Kc2k}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A90hoR7M1Ls&amp;amp;feature=emb_logo}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VswxAwtXKk}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*ZPO (Zero Point Offset) - The selected X and Y position on the material that coordinates with the program zero point.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Collet- A piece of machined steel that clamps down and locates the cutter in the tool holder. &lt;br /&gt;
*Dust Shroud- A combination of sheet metal and flexible brush material that performs a seal around the area of material during the cutting process. &lt;br /&gt;
*Spoil Board- A porous sacrificial board used on top of the router bed but under the work piece.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Regenerative Blower- This device produces the vacuum needed to pull material down onto the spoil board.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Holder- Cutters are placed in the tool holder and each holder gets pulled into the spindle during a tool change.&lt;br /&gt;
*Up Shear Router Bits- Normally used for deeper pockets as they evacuative chips better. &lt;br /&gt;
*Down Shear Router Bits- Normally used for shallow pockets and leaves a very clean edge. Tend to pile up the chips as they don't evacuate the chips very well.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Combination (Compression) Router Bits- Helps keep a good finish on the material when using a laminate on both sides.   &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Touch-Off- A process of setting the Z axis height of a tool using the sensor built into the machine.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:MCNCSS2 13032015 B&amp;amp;R.pdf|CNC Router User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To get started you will need to get a .DXF file from Solidworks or another program.  The .DXF file will need to be imported into VCarve Pro software. VCarve is used to create the G-code used by the router. You will select the type of cuts and tooling inside the software. Most cutting jobs can be done using a 1/4&amp;quot; cutter. A good rule of thumb is to not exceed the diameter of the tool in depth per pass. In foam or soft materials you can cut deeper per pass. The large switch near the middle of cabinet is the main power.  There is a key located on the control panel that also needs to be turned to the on position for the PC inside the machine to boot.  After power up, make sure the table is clear before pressing the home button.  The machine will move to the corner closest the control panel after moving the Z, X, and y axis to home position.  Always keep your body outside the safety line while the machine is moving.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration you will need to import a DXF file into VCarve Pro and convert it to G-code.  You will also need to demonstrate safe startup and use of the router using the G-code file you produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Open VCarvePro software. ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To start a new project, you must first select “Create a new file.”&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, you will be prompted to input the width, height, and thickness of the material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure that the Z Zero Position is set to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; Our Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Now select &amp;quot;import vector&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure all the imported pieces are close together, but make sure they don't overlap. &lt;br /&gt;
# Starting with the inside features, you will hold the shift key and select all of the holes. Once they are all selected, go to Tool Path and select the appropriate Profile or pocketing Tool Path. Choose your cut depth, tool, parameters, and then select OK. Double-check that Inside Cut is also selected, and check the box for Ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
# To save the inside cutout tool path, select Calculate and OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;preview selected tool path&amp;quot; to ensure the path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
# Switch back to the 2D view and begin the process for cutting out your design. This starts by holding down the shift key and selecting the items.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select VCarve, and make sure the settings are correct. If you are satisfied, select Calculate and OK again. You can preview this part of the process as well.&lt;br /&gt;
# Go back to the 2D view to begin the outside cutout process.&lt;br /&gt;
# Holding the shift key down, you can now select the outer pieces that need to be cut out. Then select Close on the right side of the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, choose Tool Path, select Outside Cut, and change your tool and parameters as needed. Check the box for adding a Ramp, and hit Calculate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Preview the entire process before saving the file.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you are happy with the design, select &amp;quot;Laguna SmartShop BR ATC(inch)(*prg)&amp;quot; post processor and &amp;quot;save toolpath(s)&amp;quot;. You can copy the files onto a flash drive to import into the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Detailed Procedure==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Software ===&lt;br /&gt;
VCarve Pro is the software used in conjunction with the CNC router and may be found on the eight rolling computers in the [[The Hub]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Job Setup ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the appropriate job type: single or double sided.&lt;br /&gt;
# Enter the size of your work-piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the Z Zero Position to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; The Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Vectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To Import the design you wish to cut go to File&amp;gt;Import&amp;gt;Import [your file type] and find your design. If you import a non-vector based design you will need to trace bitmap once imported.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select your design and use the arrow keys to position it to the desired location.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sometimes paths will not be joined properly (i.e. selecting one side of a rectangle does not select the entire rectangle). Vectors that aren't joined are treated as separate paths. Separate paths that should be joined may cause the bit to cut on the wrong side of the path. To join vectors simply press j to open the Join Vectors menu, select the vectors you wish to join and click Join.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Toolpaths ====&lt;br /&gt;
Creating tool-paths is a complex process that involves critical thinking and foresight into the cutting process. Please recognize that these instructions are by no means comprehensive and only address the simplest of the 2D tool paths features. If you wish to engrave, inlay, or do 3D carving do some research to determine the appropriate procedure. Finally, recognize that YOU ARE THE SAFETY MECHANISM on the CNC router. It will do what it is told even if that means crashing into the table or a tool holder because you accidentally told it to. All this to say that when you make a tool-path, be aware that the computer is dumb and will do what you tell it, not what you meant to tell it.&lt;br /&gt;
# To open the Toolpaths menu click the Toolpaths tab on the top right of your screen. Once the menu appears, turn off auto hide by clicking on the push pin icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Before defining any Toolpaths it is a good idea to open the material setup menu and double check that everything is set up correctly. &lt;br /&gt;
## Thickness: It is obviously important that the thickness of your material is accurate to avoid cutting deep into the spoil-board or not all the way through your part.&lt;br /&gt;
## XY Datum: Ensure that you understand where the datum is so you can accurately position your part inside your lumber.&lt;br /&gt;
## Z -Zero MUST be set to Machine Bed. (This has been mentioned many times because it is very important).&lt;br /&gt;
## Model Position in Material: This is for 3D carving and is used to tell the computer where you want to *gasp* position the model in the material.&lt;br /&gt;
## Rapid Z Gaps above Material: This is very important if you are using any clamps, jigs or anything that sticks above the surface of your material to secure it to the spoil-board. The rapid z clearance tells the computer how far above your material surface it is safe to do rapid movements during the cutting process. 0.2 inches is a good height if you don't need a fixture. Otherwise, make sure that it is set high enough so that you will not crash into your fixture. Plunge tells the computer the height it is OK to do a rapid plunge at. This value will typically be equal to the rapid z clearance. &lt;br /&gt;
## Home: Defines where the start position is. Do not change this setting.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always perform inside cuts and pockets prior to cutting the outline of your part. Failure to do so may result in incorrect geometry due to the part shifting during the cutting process. The goal here is to leave the part as stable as possible for as long as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General 2D Toolpath instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
# Cutting Depths: Start Depth tells the computer at what depth you wish to begin a cut. Unless you have already removed material over the entire path of the cut, the start depth should be zero. Cut depth is how deep you wish to cut. For a through cut set the cut depth equal to the thickness of the material. Do not set the cut depth deeper than the thickness of the material because it will cause unnecessary wear on the spoil board.&lt;br /&gt;
# Tool: Selecting your tool is important. For most operations a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill will be sufficient. The biggest things to be aware of are the tool number and spindle speed. The tool number tells the computer which tool it is to pick up. The CNC is dumb and will not know what tool it is holding at any given time. All it knows is the tool number. it is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL that you enter the correct tool number for all of your tools. Breaking off an end-mill spinning at 18000 rpm causing it to shoot across the room and impale you or your beloved engineering classmates will not win you favor. Also check that the rpm are appropriate, typically the default is fine. For a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill set the speed to 18000 rpm.&lt;br /&gt;
# Passes: Adjust the number of passes such that the pass depth is less than the diameter of the end mill you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ramp Plunge: This option plunges the end-mill on a ramp instead of going straight into the material. Generally it is wise to use this feature because it reduces the forces on the end-mill.&lt;br /&gt;
Pocket Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Profile Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
# Research! You are a capable engineering student. You can do 15 minutes of research on your own prior to step 2.&lt;br /&gt;
# Consult the ace and technician. They might ask you questions about what you want to make. It would be great if you came in with some knowledge about the process because you spent 4 minutes reading about how to do what you want to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Steps ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the Preview Toolpaths feature to double check your part. Make sure that any inner geometry is cut first. You may need to use the reset preview option.&lt;br /&gt;
# Briefly look through your material set up, tool selections, and settings to be certain that you have correctly programmed the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
# Check (again) that the z zero position has been set to Machine Bed. &lt;br /&gt;
# Select Save Toolpath. Be sure that the &amp;quot;Output all visible toolpaths to one file&amp;quot; box is selected. Check that all of your toolpaths appear underneath &amp;quot;Toolpaths to be saved...&amp;quot; The tools should have the correct tool size and location indicated. Select the appropriate post processor: Laguna SmartShop BR ATC (inch) (*.prg).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Operation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Startup ====&lt;br /&gt;
*Connect the pneumatic air line located on the tool holder end of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
*To power up the machine turn on the main power switch located on the base of the control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn on the key switch located near the screen located on the control panel and wait for the PC to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure all of the axis are clear to move.&lt;br /&gt;
*Select HOME and wait for the machine to move to the 0,0 position. You should never be on the machine side of the yellow/black tape on the floor when the machine is operating.&lt;br /&gt;
*To manually load/unload a tool in the spindle you will need to press the green button on the left side of the spindle while holding onto the tool holder OD. To insert the tool press the button and slide the tool holder up into the spindle.  To remove a tool press the button and tool will be ejected from the spindle. Do not allow your hands to make contact with the razor sharp cutting tool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Material ====&lt;br /&gt;
Only cut wood when operating this machine unless specific approval has been given by the technician.  Acrylic and foam may be cut with approval.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== End Mills ====&lt;br /&gt;
*We have a variety of tooling but the majority of cutting should be done with a 1/4&amp;quot; tool.  Talk with the technician while in the design phase.&lt;br /&gt;
*Whenever a tool is changed in the tool holder a touch off operation must be performed.  This will calculate the distance the tool is sticking out of the holder and prevent damage to the table and your work of art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Checks ====&lt;br /&gt;
There are some checks you should always do prior to running a program. Ask yourself the following questions before pressing the start button!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Is the material securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Is the dust collector turned on?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Has the zero point been set in the correct location?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Is the pneumatic line connected to the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Are the correct tools setup in the program and in their proper slot on the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Is everyone clear of the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Is the dust collection shroud going to collide with the material because I'm cutting beyond 3/4&amp;quot; deep?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Has the proper program been loaded?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Has the Z-zero position been set using the material bed and not the material surface?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cutting ====&lt;br /&gt;
Always keep your finger near the stop button when starting your program.  Most likely if something goes wrong it will happen early in the process so be ready to stop the machine. If you know the relationship between the brush on the dust shroud and the end of the tool you will have a good idea how deep the tool is when it cuts into the material. It is also very important to know what the program should be doing so you can verify the tool path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Reset the Space ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you have finished, park the cutting tool back into the storage rack at the end of the table. You will need to remove any material on the table and use the vacuum to clean off any leftover dust and chips.  You can use the dust collector or portable vacuum.  Make sure to disconnect the pneumatic air line and power down the machine with the spindle located off of the table.  This will prevent any leaking oil from dripping on the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*If none of the control functions on the control panel appear to work, make sure the machine has been homed and the E-stop is released. &lt;br /&gt;
*If the cutting tool height appears to be incorrect make sure the tool touch off has been performed for the tool in use.&lt;br /&gt;
*If your tool path appears on the inside of your part, it is likely because the paths are not joined. To join your paths, highlight the paths you wish to join and press the j key. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The spoil board needs to be resurfaced as grooves are cut into the surface. Grooves will release a percentage of the table vacuum and increase the risk of the material moving during cutting.    &lt;br /&gt;
*There are many bearing surfaces located on the router that need to be lubricated.  The router is equipped with a central lubrication system the technician will operate on a regular basis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cycle Oiler&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10193</id>
		<title>CNC Router</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10193"/>
		<updated>2022-06-24T18:33:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* Safety First */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number= 16124390&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Woodworking&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:CNC_router_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Smartshop2_Image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Laguna CNC Router&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Laguna&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=SmartShop II&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Luke Roderick;lroderick20@georgefox.edu &lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are multiple hazards you need to be aware of when using the CNC router.   &lt;br /&gt;
* The tooling is very sharp and spins at over 18,000 RPM. Keep your body parts away from the cutter and spindle. You need fingers for the ring you will get by spring.    &lt;br /&gt;
* Stay behind the yellow/black safety line when operating the router. The router is very large and will not stop if you get in its way.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Materials need to be securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means.&lt;br /&gt;
***** This includes material that could be made loose during the cutting process. Use tabs to secure such material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Never attempt to cut a hole the same diameter as the cuter with a down cut force cutter.  This will compress the chips and can create a fire due to the air draw of the vacuum table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear ear protection when operating the CNC router.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Laguna SmartShop II is a CNC wood router capable of cutting out complex shapes that would otherwise be difficult to create by hand. Like all CNC machines, the SmartShop II is most useful when a design calls for a high level of precision, or is being mass produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_uOBg8Kc2k}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A90hoR7M1Ls&amp;amp;feature=emb_logo}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VswxAwtXKk}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*ZPO (Zero Point Offset) - The selected X and Y position on the material that coordinates with the program zero point.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Collet- A piece of machined steel that clamps down and locates the cutter in the tool holder. &lt;br /&gt;
*Dust Shroud- A combination of sheet metal and flexible brush material that performs a seal around the area of material during the cutting process. &lt;br /&gt;
*Spoil Board- A porous sacrificial board used on top of the router bed but under the work piece.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Regenerative Blower- This device produces the vacuum needed to pull material down onto the spoil board.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Holder- Cutters are placed in the tool holder and each holder gets pulled into the spindle during a tool change.&lt;br /&gt;
*Up Shear Router Bits- Normally used for deeper pockets as they evacuative chips better. &lt;br /&gt;
*Down Shear Router Bits- Normally used for shallow pockets and leaves a very clean edge. Tend to pile up the chips as they don't evacuate the chips very well.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Combination (Compression) Router Bits- Helps keep a good finish on the material when using a laminate on both sides.   &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Touch-Off- A process of setting the Z axis height of a tool using the sensor built into the machine.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:MCNCSS2 13032015 B&amp;amp;R.pdf|CNC Router User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To get started you will need to get a .DXF file from Solidworks or another program.  The .DXF file will need to be imported into VCarve Pro software. VCarve is used to create the G-code used by the router. You will select the type of cuts and tooling inside the software. Most cutting jobs can be done using a 1/4&amp;quot; cutter. A good rule of thumb is to not exceed the diameter of the tool in depth per pass. In foam or soft materials you can cut deeper per pass. The large switch near the middle of cabinet is the main power.  There is a key located on the control panel that also needs to be turned to the on position for the PC inside the machine to boot.  After power up, make sure the table is clear before pressing the home button.  The machine will move to the corner closest the control panel after moving the Z, X, and y axis to home position.  Always keep your body outside the safety line while the machine is moving.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration you will need to import a DXF file into VCarve Pro and convert it to G-code.  You will also need to demonstrate safe startup and use of the router using the G-code file you produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Open VCarvePro software. ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To start a new project, you must first select “Create a new file.”&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, you will be prompted to input the width, height, and thickness of the material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure that the Z Zero Position is set to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; Our Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Now select &amp;quot;import vector&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure all the imported pieces are close together, but make sure they don't overlap. &lt;br /&gt;
# Starting with the inside features, you will hold the shift key and select all of the holes. Once they are all selected, go to Tool Path and select the appropriate Profile or pocketing Tool Path. Choose your cut depth, tool, parameters, and then select OK. Double-check that Inside Cut is also selected, and check the box for Ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
# To save the inside cutout tool path, select Calculate and OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;preview selected tool path&amp;quot; to ensure the path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
# Switch back to the 2D view and begin the process for cutting out your design. This starts by holding down the shift key and selecting the items.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select VCarve, and make sure the settings are correct. If you are satisfied, select Calculate and OK again. You can preview this part of the process as well.&lt;br /&gt;
# Go back to the 2D view to begin the outside cutout process.&lt;br /&gt;
# Holding the shift key down, you can now select the outer pieces that need to be cut out. Then select Close on the right side of the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, choose Tool Path, select Outside Cut, and change your tool and parameters as needed. Check the box for adding a Ramp, and hit Calculate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Preview the entire process before saving the file.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you are happy with the design, select &amp;quot;Laguna SmartShop BR ATC(inch)(*prg)&amp;quot; post processor and &amp;quot;save toolpath(s)&amp;quot;. You can copy the files onto a flash drive to import into the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Detailed Procedure==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Software ===&lt;br /&gt;
VCarve Pro is the software used in conjunction with the CNC router and may be found on the eight rolling computers in the [[The Hub]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Job Setup ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the appropriate job type: single or double sided.&lt;br /&gt;
# Enter the size of your work-piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the Z Zero Position to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; The Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Vectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To Import the design you wish to cut go to File&amp;gt;Import&amp;gt;Import [your file type] and find your design. If you import a non-vector based design you will need to trace bitmap once imported.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select your design and use the arrow keys to position it to the desired location.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sometimes paths will not be joined properly (i.e. selecting one side of a rectangle does not select the entire rectangle). Vectors that aren't joined are treated as separate paths. Separate paths that should be joined may cause the bit to cut on the wrong side of the path. To join vectors simply press j to open the Join Vectors menu, select the vectors you wish to join and click Join.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Toolpaths ====&lt;br /&gt;
Creating tool-paths is a complex process that involves critical thinking and foresight into the cutting process. Please recognize that these instructions are by no means comprehensive and only address the simplest of the 2D tool paths features. If you wish to engrave, inlay, or do 3D carving do some research to determine the appropriate procedure. Finally, recognize that YOU ARE THE SAFETY MECHANISM on the CNC router. It will do what it is told even if that means crashing into the table or a tool holder because you accidentally told it to. All this to say that when you make a tool-path, be aware that the computer is dumb and will do what you tell it, not what you meant to tell it.&lt;br /&gt;
# To open the Toolpaths menu click the Toolpaths tab on the top right of your screen. Once the menu appears, turn off auto hide by clicking on the push pin icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Before defining any Toolpaths it is a good idea to open the material setup menu and double check that everything is set up correctly. &lt;br /&gt;
## Thickness: It is obviously important that the thickness of your material is accurate to avoid cutting deep into the spoil-board or not all the way through your part.&lt;br /&gt;
## XY Datum: Ensure that you understand where the datum is so you can accurately position your part inside your lumber.&lt;br /&gt;
## Z -Zero MUST be set to Machine Bed. (This has been mentioned many times because it is very important).&lt;br /&gt;
## Model Position in Material: This is for 3D carving and is used to tell the computer where you want to *gasp* position the model in the material.&lt;br /&gt;
## Rapid Z Gaps above Material: This is very important if you are using any clamps, jigs or anything that sticks above the surface of your material to secure it to the spoil-board. The rapid z clearance tells the computer how far above your material surface it is safe to do rapid movements during the cutting process. 0.2 inches is a good height if you don't need a fixture. Otherwise, make sure that it is set high enough so that you will not crash into your fixture. Plunge tells the computer the height it is OK to do a rapid plunge at. This value will typically be equal to the rapid z clearance. &lt;br /&gt;
## Home: Defines where the start position is. Do not change this setting.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always perform inside cuts and pockets prior to cutting the outline of your part. Failure to do so may result in incorrect geometry due to the part shifting during the cutting process. The goal here is to leave the part as stable as possible for as long as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General 2D Toolpath instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
# Cutting Depths: Start Depth tells the computer at what depth you wish to begin a cut. Unless you have already removed material over the entire path of the cut, the start depth should be zero. Cut depth is how deep you wish to cut. For a through cut set the cut depth equal to the thickness of the material. Do not set the cut depth deeper than the thickness of the material because it will cause unnecessary wear on the spoil board.&lt;br /&gt;
# Tool: Selecting your tool is important. For most operations a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill will be sufficient. The biggest things to be aware of are the tool number and spindle speed. The tool number tells the computer which tool it is to pick up. The CNC is dumb and will not know what tool it is holding at any given time. All it knows is the tool number. it is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL that you enter the correct tool number for all of your tools. Breaking off an end-mill spinning at 18000 rpm causing it to shoot across the room and impale you or your beloved engineering classmates will not win you favor. Also check that the rpm are appropriate, typically the default is fine. For a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill set the speed to 18000 rpm.&lt;br /&gt;
# Passes: Adjust the number of passes such that the pass depth is less than the diameter of the end mill you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ramp Plunge: This option plunges the end-mill on a ramp instead of going straight into the material. Generally it is wise to use this feature because it reduces the forces on the end-mill.&lt;br /&gt;
Pocket Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Profile Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
# Research! You are a capable engineering student. You can do 15 minutes of research on your own prior to step 2.&lt;br /&gt;
# Consult the ace and technician. They might ask you questions about what you want to make. It would be great if you came in with some knowledge about the process because you spent 4 minutes reading about how to do what you want to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Steps ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the Preview Toolpaths feature to double check your part. Make sure that any inner geometry is cut first. You may need to use the reset preview option.&lt;br /&gt;
# Briefly look through your material set up, tool selections, and settings to be certain that you have correctly programmed the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
# Check (again) that the z zero position has been set to Machine Bed. &lt;br /&gt;
# Select Save Toolpath. Be sure that the &amp;quot;Output all visible toolpaths to one file&amp;quot; box is selected. Check that all of your toolpaths appear underneath &amp;quot;Toolpaths to be saved...&amp;quot; The tools should have the correct tool size and location indicated. Select the appropriate post processor: Laguna SmartShop BR ATC (inch) (*.prg).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Operation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Startup ====&lt;br /&gt;
*Connect the pneumatic air line located on the tool holder end of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
*To power up the machine turn on the main power switch located on the base of the control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn on the key switch located near the screen located on the control panel and wait for the PC to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure all of the axis are clear to move.&lt;br /&gt;
*Select HOME and wait for the machine to move to the 0,0 position. You should never be on the machine side of the yellow/black tape on the floor when the machine is operating.&lt;br /&gt;
*To manually load/unload a tool in the spindle you will need to press the green button on the left side of the spindle while holding onto the tool holder OD. To insert the tool press the button and slide the tool holder up into the spindle.  To remove a tool press the button and tool will be ejected from the spindle. Do not allow your hands to make contact with the razor sharp cutting tool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Material ====&lt;br /&gt;
Only cut wood when operating this machine unless specific approval has been given by the technician.  Acrylic and foam may be cut with approval.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== End Mills ====&lt;br /&gt;
*We have a variety of tooling but the majority of cutting should be done with a 1/4&amp;quot; tool.  Talk with the technician while in the design phase.&lt;br /&gt;
*Whenever a tool is changed in the tool holder a touch off operation must be performed.  This will calculate the distance the tool is sticking out of the holder and prevent damage to the table and your work of art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Checks ====&lt;br /&gt;
There are some checks you should always do prior to running a program. Ask yourself the following questions before pressing the start button!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Is the material securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Is the dust collector turned on?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Has the zero point been set in the correct location?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Is the pneumatic line connected to the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Are the correct tools setup in the program and in their proper slot on the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Is everyone clear of the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Is the dust collection shroud going to collide with the material because I'm cutting beyond 3/4&amp;quot; deep?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Has the proper program been loaded?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Has the Z-zero position been set using the material bed and not the material surface?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cutting ====&lt;br /&gt;
Always keep your finger near the stop button when starting your program.  Most likely if something goes wrong it will happen early in the process so be ready to stop the machine. If you know the relationship between the brush on the dust shroud and the end of the tool you will have a good idea how deep the tool is when it cuts into the material. It is also very important to know what the program should be doing so you can verify the tool path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Reset the Space ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you have finished, park the cutting tool back into the storage rack at the end of the table. You will need to remove any material on the table and use the vacuum to clean off any leftover dust and chips.  You can use the dust collector or portable vacuum.  Make sure to disconnect the pneumatic air line and power down the machine with the spindle located off of the table.  This will prevent any leaking oil from dripping on the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*If none of the control functions on the control panel appear to work, make sure the machine has been homed and the E-stop is released. &lt;br /&gt;
*If the cutting tool height appears to be incorrect make sure the tool touch off has been performed for the tool in use.&lt;br /&gt;
*If your tool path appears on the inside of your part, it is likely because the paths are not joined. To join your paths, highlight the paths you wish to join and press the j key. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The spoil board needs to be resurfaced as grooves are cut into the surface. Grooves will release a percentage of the table vacuum and increase the risk of the material moving during cutting.    &lt;br /&gt;
*There are many bearing surfaces located on the router that need to be lubricated.  The router is equipped with a central lubrication system the technician will operate on a regular basis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cycle Oiler&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10192</id>
		<title>CNC Router</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10192"/>
		<updated>2022-06-24T18:33:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* Safety First */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number= 16124390&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Woodworking&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:CNC_router_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Smartshop2_Image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Laguna CNC Router&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Laguna&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=SmartShop II&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Luke Roderick;lroderick20@georgefox.edu &lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are multiple hazards you need to be aware of when using the CNC router.   &lt;br /&gt;
* The tooling is very sharp and spins at over 18,000 RPM. Keep your body parts away from the cutter and spindle. You need fingers for the ring you will get by spring.    &lt;br /&gt;
* Stay behind the yellow/black safety line when operating the router. The router is very large and will not stop if you get in its way.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Materials need to be securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means.&lt;br /&gt;
#* This includes material that could be made loose during the cutting process. Use tabs to secure such material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Never attempt to cut a hole the same diameter as the cuter with a down cut force cutter.  This will compress the chips and can create a fire due to the air draw of the vacuum table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear ear protection when operating the CNC router.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Laguna SmartShop II is a CNC wood router capable of cutting out complex shapes that would otherwise be difficult to create by hand. Like all CNC machines, the SmartShop II is most useful when a design calls for a high level of precision, or is being mass produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_uOBg8Kc2k}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A90hoR7M1Ls&amp;amp;feature=emb_logo}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VswxAwtXKk}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*ZPO (Zero Point Offset) - The selected X and Y position on the material that coordinates with the program zero point.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Collet- A piece of machined steel that clamps down and locates the cutter in the tool holder. &lt;br /&gt;
*Dust Shroud- A combination of sheet metal and flexible brush material that performs a seal around the area of material during the cutting process. &lt;br /&gt;
*Spoil Board- A porous sacrificial board used on top of the router bed but under the work piece.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Regenerative Blower- This device produces the vacuum needed to pull material down onto the spoil board.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Holder- Cutters are placed in the tool holder and each holder gets pulled into the spindle during a tool change.&lt;br /&gt;
*Up Shear Router Bits- Normally used for deeper pockets as they evacuative chips better. &lt;br /&gt;
*Down Shear Router Bits- Normally used for shallow pockets and leaves a very clean edge. Tend to pile up the chips as they don't evacuate the chips very well.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Combination (Compression) Router Bits- Helps keep a good finish on the material when using a laminate on both sides.   &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Touch-Off- A process of setting the Z axis height of a tool using the sensor built into the machine.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:MCNCSS2 13032015 B&amp;amp;R.pdf|CNC Router User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To get started you will need to get a .DXF file from Solidworks or another program.  The .DXF file will need to be imported into VCarve Pro software. VCarve is used to create the G-code used by the router. You will select the type of cuts and tooling inside the software. Most cutting jobs can be done using a 1/4&amp;quot; cutter. A good rule of thumb is to not exceed the diameter of the tool in depth per pass. In foam or soft materials you can cut deeper per pass. The large switch near the middle of cabinet is the main power.  There is a key located on the control panel that also needs to be turned to the on position for the PC inside the machine to boot.  After power up, make sure the table is clear before pressing the home button.  The machine will move to the corner closest the control panel after moving the Z, X, and y axis to home position.  Always keep your body outside the safety line while the machine is moving.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration you will need to import a DXF file into VCarve Pro and convert it to G-code.  You will also need to demonstrate safe startup and use of the router using the G-code file you produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Open VCarvePro software. ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To start a new project, you must first select “Create a new file.”&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, you will be prompted to input the width, height, and thickness of the material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure that the Z Zero Position is set to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; Our Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Now select &amp;quot;import vector&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure all the imported pieces are close together, but make sure they don't overlap. &lt;br /&gt;
# Starting with the inside features, you will hold the shift key and select all of the holes. Once they are all selected, go to Tool Path and select the appropriate Profile or pocketing Tool Path. Choose your cut depth, tool, parameters, and then select OK. Double-check that Inside Cut is also selected, and check the box for Ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
# To save the inside cutout tool path, select Calculate and OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;preview selected tool path&amp;quot; to ensure the path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
# Switch back to the 2D view and begin the process for cutting out your design. This starts by holding down the shift key and selecting the items.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select VCarve, and make sure the settings are correct. If you are satisfied, select Calculate and OK again. You can preview this part of the process as well.&lt;br /&gt;
# Go back to the 2D view to begin the outside cutout process.&lt;br /&gt;
# Holding the shift key down, you can now select the outer pieces that need to be cut out. Then select Close on the right side of the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, choose Tool Path, select Outside Cut, and change your tool and parameters as needed. Check the box for adding a Ramp, and hit Calculate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Preview the entire process before saving the file.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you are happy with the design, select &amp;quot;Laguna SmartShop BR ATC(inch)(*prg)&amp;quot; post processor and &amp;quot;save toolpath(s)&amp;quot;. You can copy the files onto a flash drive to import into the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Detailed Procedure==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Software ===&lt;br /&gt;
VCarve Pro is the software used in conjunction with the CNC router and may be found on the eight rolling computers in the [[The Hub]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Job Setup ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the appropriate job type: single or double sided.&lt;br /&gt;
# Enter the size of your work-piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the Z Zero Position to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; The Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Vectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To Import the design you wish to cut go to File&amp;gt;Import&amp;gt;Import [your file type] and find your design. If you import a non-vector based design you will need to trace bitmap once imported.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select your design and use the arrow keys to position it to the desired location.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sometimes paths will not be joined properly (i.e. selecting one side of a rectangle does not select the entire rectangle). Vectors that aren't joined are treated as separate paths. Separate paths that should be joined may cause the bit to cut on the wrong side of the path. To join vectors simply press j to open the Join Vectors menu, select the vectors you wish to join and click Join.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Toolpaths ====&lt;br /&gt;
Creating tool-paths is a complex process that involves critical thinking and foresight into the cutting process. Please recognize that these instructions are by no means comprehensive and only address the simplest of the 2D tool paths features. If you wish to engrave, inlay, or do 3D carving do some research to determine the appropriate procedure. Finally, recognize that YOU ARE THE SAFETY MECHANISM on the CNC router. It will do what it is told even if that means crashing into the table or a tool holder because you accidentally told it to. All this to say that when you make a tool-path, be aware that the computer is dumb and will do what you tell it, not what you meant to tell it.&lt;br /&gt;
# To open the Toolpaths menu click the Toolpaths tab on the top right of your screen. Once the menu appears, turn off auto hide by clicking on the push pin icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Before defining any Toolpaths it is a good idea to open the material setup menu and double check that everything is set up correctly. &lt;br /&gt;
## Thickness: It is obviously important that the thickness of your material is accurate to avoid cutting deep into the spoil-board or not all the way through your part.&lt;br /&gt;
## XY Datum: Ensure that you understand where the datum is so you can accurately position your part inside your lumber.&lt;br /&gt;
## Z -Zero MUST be set to Machine Bed. (This has been mentioned many times because it is very important).&lt;br /&gt;
## Model Position in Material: This is for 3D carving and is used to tell the computer where you want to *gasp* position the model in the material.&lt;br /&gt;
## Rapid Z Gaps above Material: This is very important if you are using any clamps, jigs or anything that sticks above the surface of your material to secure it to the spoil-board. The rapid z clearance tells the computer how far above your material surface it is safe to do rapid movements during the cutting process. 0.2 inches is a good height if you don't need a fixture. Otherwise, make sure that it is set high enough so that you will not crash into your fixture. Plunge tells the computer the height it is OK to do a rapid plunge at. This value will typically be equal to the rapid z clearance. &lt;br /&gt;
## Home: Defines where the start position is. Do not change this setting.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always perform inside cuts and pockets prior to cutting the outline of your part. Failure to do so may result in incorrect geometry due to the part shifting during the cutting process. The goal here is to leave the part as stable as possible for as long as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General 2D Toolpath instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
# Cutting Depths: Start Depth tells the computer at what depth you wish to begin a cut. Unless you have already removed material over the entire path of the cut, the start depth should be zero. Cut depth is how deep you wish to cut. For a through cut set the cut depth equal to the thickness of the material. Do not set the cut depth deeper than the thickness of the material because it will cause unnecessary wear on the spoil board.&lt;br /&gt;
# Tool: Selecting your tool is important. For most operations a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill will be sufficient. The biggest things to be aware of are the tool number and spindle speed. The tool number tells the computer which tool it is to pick up. The CNC is dumb and will not know what tool it is holding at any given time. All it knows is the tool number. it is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL that you enter the correct tool number for all of your tools. Breaking off an end-mill spinning at 18000 rpm causing it to shoot across the room and impale you or your beloved engineering classmates will not win you favor. Also check that the rpm are appropriate, typically the default is fine. For a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill set the speed to 18000 rpm.&lt;br /&gt;
# Passes: Adjust the number of passes such that the pass depth is less than the diameter of the end mill you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ramp Plunge: This option plunges the end-mill on a ramp instead of going straight into the material. Generally it is wise to use this feature because it reduces the forces on the end-mill.&lt;br /&gt;
Pocket Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Profile Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
# Research! You are a capable engineering student. You can do 15 minutes of research on your own prior to step 2.&lt;br /&gt;
# Consult the ace and technician. They might ask you questions about what you want to make. It would be great if you came in with some knowledge about the process because you spent 4 minutes reading about how to do what you want to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Steps ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the Preview Toolpaths feature to double check your part. Make sure that any inner geometry is cut first. You may need to use the reset preview option.&lt;br /&gt;
# Briefly look through your material set up, tool selections, and settings to be certain that you have correctly programmed the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
# Check (again) that the z zero position has been set to Machine Bed. &lt;br /&gt;
# Select Save Toolpath. Be sure that the &amp;quot;Output all visible toolpaths to one file&amp;quot; box is selected. Check that all of your toolpaths appear underneath &amp;quot;Toolpaths to be saved...&amp;quot; The tools should have the correct tool size and location indicated. Select the appropriate post processor: Laguna SmartShop BR ATC (inch) (*.prg).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Operation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Startup ====&lt;br /&gt;
*Connect the pneumatic air line located on the tool holder end of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
*To power up the machine turn on the main power switch located on the base of the control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn on the key switch located near the screen located on the control panel and wait for the PC to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure all of the axis are clear to move.&lt;br /&gt;
*Select HOME and wait for the machine to move to the 0,0 position. You should never be on the machine side of the yellow/black tape on the floor when the machine is operating.&lt;br /&gt;
*To manually load/unload a tool in the spindle you will need to press the green button on the left side of the spindle while holding onto the tool holder OD. To insert the tool press the button and slide the tool holder up into the spindle.  To remove a tool press the button and tool will be ejected from the spindle. Do not allow your hands to make contact with the razor sharp cutting tool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Material ====&lt;br /&gt;
Only cut wood when operating this machine unless specific approval has been given by the technician.  Acrylic and foam may be cut with approval.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== End Mills ====&lt;br /&gt;
*We have a variety of tooling but the majority of cutting should be done with a 1/4&amp;quot; tool.  Talk with the technician while in the design phase.&lt;br /&gt;
*Whenever a tool is changed in the tool holder a touch off operation must be performed.  This will calculate the distance the tool is sticking out of the holder and prevent damage to the table and your work of art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Checks ====&lt;br /&gt;
There are some checks you should always do prior to running a program. Ask yourself the following questions before pressing the start button!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Is the material securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Is the dust collector turned on?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Has the zero point been set in the correct location?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Is the pneumatic line connected to the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Are the correct tools setup in the program and in their proper slot on the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Is everyone clear of the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Is the dust collection shroud going to collide with the material because I'm cutting beyond 3/4&amp;quot; deep?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Has the proper program been loaded?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Has the Z-zero position been set using the material bed and not the material surface?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cutting ====&lt;br /&gt;
Always keep your finger near the stop button when starting your program.  Most likely if something goes wrong it will happen early in the process so be ready to stop the machine. If you know the relationship between the brush on the dust shroud and the end of the tool you will have a good idea how deep the tool is when it cuts into the material. It is also very important to know what the program should be doing so you can verify the tool path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Reset the Space ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you have finished, park the cutting tool back into the storage rack at the end of the table. You will need to remove any material on the table and use the vacuum to clean off any leftover dust and chips.  You can use the dust collector or portable vacuum.  Make sure to disconnect the pneumatic air line and power down the machine with the spindle located off of the table.  This will prevent any leaking oil from dripping on the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*If none of the control functions on the control panel appear to work, make sure the machine has been homed and the E-stop is released. &lt;br /&gt;
*If the cutting tool height appears to be incorrect make sure the tool touch off has been performed for the tool in use.&lt;br /&gt;
*If your tool path appears on the inside of your part, it is likely because the paths are not joined. To join your paths, highlight the paths you wish to join and press the j key. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The spoil board needs to be resurfaced as grooves are cut into the surface. Grooves will release a percentage of the table vacuum and increase the risk of the material moving during cutting.    &lt;br /&gt;
*There are many bearing surfaces located on the router that need to be lubricated.  The router is equipped with a central lubrication system the technician will operate on a regular basis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cycle Oiler&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10191</id>
		<title>CNC Router</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=CNC_Router&amp;diff=10191"/>
		<updated>2022-06-24T18:32:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Kaylam20: /* Safety First */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Wood Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Wood&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has serial number= 16124390&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=Woodworking&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:CNC_router_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Smartshop2_Image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Laguna CNC Router&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Laguna&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=SmartShop II&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Luke Roderick;lroderick20@georgefox.edu &lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|140px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety First==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]&lt;br /&gt;
There are multiple hazards you need to be aware of when using the CNC router.   &lt;br /&gt;
* The tooling is very sharp and spins at over 18,000 RPM. Keep your body parts away from the cutter and spindle. You need fingers for the ring you will get by spring.    &lt;br /&gt;
* Stay behind the yellow/black safety line when operating the router. The router is very large and will not stop if you get in its way.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Materials need to be securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means.&lt;br /&gt;
** This includes material that could be made loose during the cutting process. Use tabs to secure such material.&lt;br /&gt;
* Never attempt to cut a hole the same diameter as the cuter with a down cut force cutter.  This will compress the chips and can create a fire due to the air draw of the vacuum table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Always wear ear protection when operating the CNC router.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Laguna SmartShop II is a CNC wood router capable of cutting out complex shapes that would otherwise be difficult to create by hand. Like all CNC machines, the SmartShop II is most useful when a design calls for a high level of precision, or is being mass produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_uOBg8Kc2k}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A90hoR7M1Ls&amp;amp;feature=emb_logo}}&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VswxAwtXKk}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*ZPO (Zero Point Offset) - The selected X and Y position on the material that coordinates with the program zero point.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Collet- A piece of machined steel that clamps down and locates the cutter in the tool holder. &lt;br /&gt;
*Dust Shroud- A combination of sheet metal and flexible brush material that performs a seal around the area of material during the cutting process. &lt;br /&gt;
*Spoil Board- A porous sacrificial board used on top of the router bed but under the work piece.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Regenerative Blower- This device produces the vacuum needed to pull material down onto the spoil board.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Holder- Cutters are placed in the tool holder and each holder gets pulled into the spindle during a tool change.&lt;br /&gt;
*Up Shear Router Bits- Normally used for deeper pockets as they evacuative chips better. &lt;br /&gt;
*Down Shear Router Bits- Normally used for shallow pockets and leaves a very clean edge. Tend to pile up the chips as they don't evacuate the chips very well.  &lt;br /&gt;
*Combination (Compression) Router Bits- Helps keep a good finish on the material when using a laminate on both sides.   &lt;br /&gt;
*Tool Touch-Off- A process of setting the Z axis height of a tool using the sensor built into the machine.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:MCNCSS2 13032015 B&amp;amp;R.pdf|CNC Router User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Operation====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To get started you will need to get a .DXF file from Solidworks or another program.  The .DXF file will need to be imported into VCarve Pro software. VCarve is used to create the G-code used by the router. You will select the type of cuts and tooling inside the software. Most cutting jobs can be done using a 1/4&amp;quot; cutter. A good rule of thumb is to not exceed the diameter of the tool in depth per pass. In foam or soft materials you can cut deeper per pass. The large switch near the middle of cabinet is the main power.  There is a key located on the control panel that also needs to be turned to the on position for the PC inside the machine to boot.  After power up, make sure the table is clear before pressing the home button.  The machine will move to the corner closest the control panel after moving the Z, X, and y axis to home position.  Always keep your body outside the safety line while the machine is moving.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration you will need to import a DXF file into VCarve Pro and convert it to G-code.  You will also need to demonstrate safe startup and use of the router using the G-code file you produced.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Open VCarvePro software. ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To start a new project, you must first select “Create a new file.”&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, you will be prompted to input the width, height, and thickness of the material you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure that the Z Zero Position is set to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; Our Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Now select &amp;quot;import vector&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure all the imported pieces are close together, but make sure they don't overlap. &lt;br /&gt;
# Starting with the inside features, you will hold the shift key and select all of the holes. Once they are all selected, go to Tool Path and select the appropriate Profile or pocketing Tool Path. Choose your cut depth, tool, parameters, and then select OK. Double-check that Inside Cut is also selected, and check the box for Ramp.&lt;br /&gt;
# To save the inside cutout tool path, select Calculate and OK.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select &amp;quot;preview selected tool path&amp;quot; to ensure the path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
# Switch back to the 2D view and begin the process for cutting out your design. This starts by holding down the shift key and selecting the items.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select VCarve, and make sure the settings are correct. If you are satisfied, select Calculate and OK again. You can preview this part of the process as well.&lt;br /&gt;
# Go back to the 2D view to begin the outside cutout process.&lt;br /&gt;
# Holding the shift key down, you can now select the outer pieces that need to be cut out. Then select Close on the right side of the screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Next, choose Tool Path, select Outside Cut, and change your tool and parameters as needed. Check the box for adding a Ramp, and hit Calculate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Preview the entire process before saving the file.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you are happy with the design, select &amp;quot;Laguna SmartShop BR ATC(inch)(*prg)&amp;quot; post processor and &amp;quot;save toolpath(s)&amp;quot;. You can copy the files onto a flash drive to import into the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Detailed Procedure==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Software ===&lt;br /&gt;
VCarve Pro is the software used in conjunction with the CNC router and may be found on the eight rolling computers in the [[The Hub]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Job Setup ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the appropriate job type: single or double sided.&lt;br /&gt;
# Enter the size of your work-piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the Z Zero Position to &amp;quot;Machine Bed.&amp;quot; The Smart Shop II machine is calibrated for this setting. If you use the material surface option, the end-mill will carve into the machine bed causing damage and potential injury.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the XY Datum Position. Typically, it is easiest to not use an offset and origin your part off the bottom left corner of the material. If you are cutting a part that needs to be rotated and cut in 2 or more orientations an offset may be useful to line up your jig.&lt;br /&gt;
# If you wish, you may adjust the modeling resolution and color. Otherwise select OK.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Vectors ====&lt;br /&gt;
# To Import the design you wish to cut go to File&amp;gt;Import&amp;gt;Import [your file type] and find your design. If you import a non-vector based design you will need to trace bitmap once imported.&lt;br /&gt;
# Select your design and use the arrow keys to position it to the desired location.&lt;br /&gt;
# Sometimes paths will not be joined properly (i.e. selecting one side of a rectangle does not select the entire rectangle). Vectors that aren't joined are treated as separate paths. Separate paths that should be joined may cause the bit to cut on the wrong side of the path. To join vectors simply press j to open the Join Vectors menu, select the vectors you wish to join and click Join.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Toolpaths ====&lt;br /&gt;
Creating tool-paths is a complex process that involves critical thinking and foresight into the cutting process. Please recognize that these instructions are by no means comprehensive and only address the simplest of the 2D tool paths features. If you wish to engrave, inlay, or do 3D carving do some research to determine the appropriate procedure. Finally, recognize that YOU ARE THE SAFETY MECHANISM on the CNC router. It will do what it is told even if that means crashing into the table or a tool holder because you accidentally told it to. All this to say that when you make a tool-path, be aware that the computer is dumb and will do what you tell it, not what you meant to tell it.&lt;br /&gt;
# To open the Toolpaths menu click the Toolpaths tab on the top right of your screen. Once the menu appears, turn off auto hide by clicking on the push pin icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Before defining any Toolpaths it is a good idea to open the material setup menu and double check that everything is set up correctly. &lt;br /&gt;
## Thickness: It is obviously important that the thickness of your material is accurate to avoid cutting deep into the spoil-board or not all the way through your part.&lt;br /&gt;
## XY Datum: Ensure that you understand where the datum is so you can accurately position your part inside your lumber.&lt;br /&gt;
## Z -Zero MUST be set to Machine Bed. (This has been mentioned many times because it is very important).&lt;br /&gt;
## Model Position in Material: This is for 3D carving and is used to tell the computer where you want to *gasp* position the model in the material.&lt;br /&gt;
## Rapid Z Gaps above Material: This is very important if you are using any clamps, jigs or anything that sticks above the surface of your material to secure it to the spoil-board. The rapid z clearance tells the computer how far above your material surface it is safe to do rapid movements during the cutting process. 0.2 inches is a good height if you don't need a fixture. Otherwise, make sure that it is set high enough so that you will not crash into your fixture. Plunge tells the computer the height it is OK to do a rapid plunge at. This value will typically be equal to the rapid z clearance. &lt;br /&gt;
## Home: Defines where the start position is. Do not change this setting.&lt;br /&gt;
# Always perform inside cuts and pockets prior to cutting the outline of your part. Failure to do so may result in incorrect geometry due to the part shifting during the cutting process. The goal here is to leave the part as stable as possible for as long as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
General 2D Toolpath instructions:&lt;br /&gt;
# Cutting Depths: Start Depth tells the computer at what depth you wish to begin a cut. Unless you have already removed material over the entire path of the cut, the start depth should be zero. Cut depth is how deep you wish to cut. For a through cut set the cut depth equal to the thickness of the material. Do not set the cut depth deeper than the thickness of the material because it will cause unnecessary wear on the spoil board.&lt;br /&gt;
# Tool: Selecting your tool is important. For most operations a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill will be sufficient. The biggest things to be aware of are the tool number and spindle speed. The tool number tells the computer which tool it is to pick up. The CNC is dumb and will not know what tool it is holding at any given time. All it knows is the tool number. it is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL that you enter the correct tool number for all of your tools. Breaking off an end-mill spinning at 18000 rpm causing it to shoot across the room and impale you or your beloved engineering classmates will not win you favor. Also check that the rpm are appropriate, typically the default is fine. For a 1/4&amp;quot; end-mill set the speed to 18000 rpm.&lt;br /&gt;
# Passes: Adjust the number of passes such that the pass depth is less than the diameter of the end mill you are using.&lt;br /&gt;
# Ramp Plunge: This option plunges the end-mill on a ramp instead of going straight into the material. Generally it is wise to use this feature because it reduces the forces on the end-mill.&lt;br /&gt;
Pocket Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Profile Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Other Toolpath&lt;br /&gt;
# Research! You are a capable engineering student. You can do 15 minutes of research on your own prior to step 2.&lt;br /&gt;
# Consult the ace and technician. They might ask you questions about what you want to make. It would be great if you came in with some knowledge about the process because you spent 4 minutes reading about how to do what you want to do.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Steps ====&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the Preview Toolpaths feature to double check your part. Make sure that any inner geometry is cut first. You may need to use the reset preview option.&lt;br /&gt;
# Briefly look through your material set up, tool selections, and settings to be certain that you have correctly programmed the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
# Check (again) that the z zero position has been set to Machine Bed. &lt;br /&gt;
# Select Save Toolpath. Be sure that the &amp;quot;Output all visible toolpaths to one file&amp;quot; box is selected. Check that all of your toolpaths appear underneath &amp;quot;Toolpaths to be saved...&amp;quot; The tools should have the correct tool size and location indicated. Select the appropriate post processor: Laguna SmartShop BR ATC (inch) (*.prg).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Operation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Startup ====&lt;br /&gt;
*Connect the pneumatic air line located on the tool holder end of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
*To power up the machine turn on the main power switch located on the base of the control panel.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn on the key switch located near the screen located on the control panel and wait for the PC to boot.&lt;br /&gt;
*Make sure all of the axis are clear to move.&lt;br /&gt;
*Select HOME and wait for the machine to move to the 0,0 position. You should never be on the machine side of the yellow/black tape on the floor when the machine is operating.&lt;br /&gt;
*To manually load/unload a tool in the spindle you will need to press the green button on the left side of the spindle while holding onto the tool holder OD. To insert the tool press the button and slide the tool holder up into the spindle.  To remove a tool press the button and tool will be ejected from the spindle. Do not allow your hands to make contact with the razor sharp cutting tool.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Material ====&lt;br /&gt;
Only cut wood when operating this machine unless specific approval has been given by the technician.  Acrylic and foam may be cut with approval.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== End Mills ====&lt;br /&gt;
*We have a variety of tooling but the majority of cutting should be done with a 1/4&amp;quot; tool.  Talk with the technician while in the design phase.&lt;br /&gt;
*Whenever a tool is changed in the tool holder a touch off operation must be performed.  This will calculate the distance the tool is sticking out of the holder and prevent damage to the table and your work of art.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Final Checks ====&lt;br /&gt;
There are some checks you should always do prior to running a program. Ask yourself the following questions before pressing the start button!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
1. Is the material securely fastened to the table by vacuum or mechanical means?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2. Is the dust collector turned on?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3. Has the zero point been set in the correct location?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4. Is the pneumatic line connected to the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5. Are the correct tools setup in the program and in their proper slot on the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
6. Is everyone clear of the machine?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
7. Is the dust collection shroud going to collide with the material because I'm cutting beyond 3/4&amp;quot; deep?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
8. Has the proper program been loaded?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
9. Has the Z-zero position been set using the material bed and not the material surface?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Cutting ====&lt;br /&gt;
Always keep your finger near the stop button when starting your program.  Most likely if something goes wrong it will happen early in the process so be ready to stop the machine. If you know the relationship between the brush on the dust shroud and the end of the tool you will have a good idea how deep the tool is when it cuts into the material. It is also very important to know what the program should be doing so you can verify the tool path is correct.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Reset the Space ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When you have finished, park the cutting tool back into the storage rack at the end of the table. You will need to remove any material on the table and use the vacuum to clean off any leftover dust and chips.  You can use the dust collector or portable vacuum.  Make sure to disconnect the pneumatic air line and power down the machine with the spindle located off of the table.  This will prevent any leaking oil from dripping on the table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1215 Canvas Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*If none of the control functions on the control panel appear to work, make sure the machine has been homed and the E-stop is released. &lt;br /&gt;
*If the cutting tool height appears to be incorrect make sure the tool touch off has been performed for the tool in use.&lt;br /&gt;
*If your tool path appears on the inside of your part, it is likely because the paths are not joined. To join your paths, highlight the paths you wish to join and press the j key. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*The spoil board needs to be resurfaced as grooves are cut into the surface. Grooves will release a percentage of the table vacuum and increase the risk of the material moving during cutting.    &lt;br /&gt;
*There are many bearing surfaces located on the router that need to be lubricated.  The router is equipped with a central lubrication system the technician will operate on a regular basis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Cycle Oiler&lt;br /&gt;
|Monthly&lt;br /&gt;
|Technician&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Kaylam20</name></author>
	</entry>
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