makerhub - User contributions [en]

Speedy 300

2023-09-28T20:22:09Z

Jsides22:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is laser cutter equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Trotec
|Has model=Speedy 300
|Has serial number=140801D83D63 / 01411-05631 (Air Filter)
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon
|Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:laser_cutter_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 300 Laser Engraver
|Has description=
|Has certification=https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1223
|Has ace=Jack Sides;jsides22@georgefox.edu
}}

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Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}

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__TOC__

==Description==

The Trotec Speedy 300 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qF8dHQPy6o}}[[File:Hydrowiki.jpg|thumb|400x400px|none|Example of an engraved Hydroflask. ]]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

*Inkscape - The program you will be using to design is Inkscape. It allows you to type in words, edit logos, make your own logos and such to engrave or cut out of your material.
*Job Control - The program that interacts with the laser cutter to perform a cut. Job Control lets you set up/create Material Profiles, change between the HoneyComb Table and the Rotary tool (mostly used for Hydroflasks), and choose a location to cut on your material.

*Focusing tool - Used to focus the laser cutter.

*Stroke - This is the type of line that should be used when cutting.

*Repeat Cut Line - Can be used in JobControl to reproduce the same cut line that was just cut.
*Outline Job - Can be used in JobControl to trace the job that is going to be cut to show where job extends.
*Bitmap - Representation of an image as bits of information (pixels); used to allow logos/stencils to be changed into colors.
*Vector - Representation of an image as shapes, rather than bits; used to allow logos/stencils to be modified as objects.
*Trace Bitmap - Can be used on a bitmap to to turn it into a vector.
*Honeycomb Table - This is the honeycomb shaped metal tray that holds flat material during a cut. It is used for most cut jobs.
*Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.

====Material Settings====

* '''[[Media:LICENSE KEY S3-4397.pdf|License Key Information]]'''
* '''[[Media:TrotecMaterials 2022.09.08 10.40.55.xml|Speedy 300 Material Settings 8 SEP 2022]]

====User Manual====

* '''[[Media:JobControl-Manual-EN.pdf|Job Control Operation Manual]]'''
* '''[[Media:8011-speedy300-manual-en.pdf|Speedy 300 Operation Manual]]'''

==Training==
====Operation====

Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. When you use SolidWorks to generate a .dxf file the correct face must be selected prior to saving the file. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] > [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.
 
 
A Training Venture (TV) that uses the Laser Cutter is the [[Windchimes]]

====Demonstration====

First, import a George Fox logo into Inkscape and set it up so that the logo is an engrave with a cut circle surrounding it. Once this is done, print the job to job control and run the job on a piece of scrap material.

====General Procedure====
[[File:trotec_laser_engraving.mp4|thumb|none|400px|This video shows the complete process of completing an engrave. See below for details on doing this. ]]

#'''Setting up a Job'''
##First off, open a new document in Inkscape on your own machine or one of the lab computers (File > New, or Ctrl + N). Next, you’ll want to set the dimensions of your page by going to [File] > [Document Properties] (Ctrl + Shift + D). Your page can be as big as you like, as long as it’s larger than the shape you’re working with. However, always '''make sure that the document is square.''' There’s some weird quirk with the software that makes this necessary, keeping the document square will keep you from running into a lot of problems later on. Under the “Custom Size” section in document properties, set your hight and width to something larger than the longest dimension of your object. When you export the shape to the laser cutter, Inkscape will export anything within the document canvas and ignore anything that extends beyond it’s borders.
##Now you’re ready to create a shape to be cut or engraved. a.) If you’re importing a shape from SolidWorks, the file should be saved as a .DXF file. Simply drag the file onto your Inkscape document or import it via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). If prompted to select scaling options, choose “read from file” and click OK. Next, select the object and go to [Object] > [Ungroup] (Ctrl + Shift + G). This will allow you to select the text objects that make up the SolidWorks watermark and delete them. While you’re here, make sure that there is only one copy of each line, as SolidWorks often likes to make duplicates. Finally, you may want to select all of the remaining objects and regroup them with [Object] > [Group] (Ctrl + G). Skip to step 5. b.) If you want to cut or engrave from an image, the best way to do so is from a vector image file. Vector graphics files store the lines, shapes, and colors that make up an image rather than storing data based on pixels as in a typical raster image. These lines, shapes, and colors is what the laser cutter interprets when cutting and engraving. If you’ve designed something in Adobe Illustrator, Inkscape, or other vector-based drawing applications, you can save your image directly to this format. If you’re looking for images online, search for vector images. These will most commonly be in the format of .SVG, .EPS, and some types of .PDF. You can import these types of images into your Inkscape document by simply dragging them onto the canvas or importing them via [File] > [Import] (Ctrl + I). Skip to step 5. c.) If you want to engrave or cut a raster (pixel-based) image, you will need to convert it to a vector shape. Drag your image onto the Inkscape canvas and proceed to step 3. [[File:...gfuLogo.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Inkscape can convert an image into vectors based on the composition of the source image. To do this, select your image, right click, and select Trace Bitmap, (Alt + Shift + B). You will be given several options shown below. Check the “Live Preview” box which will give you a better idea what’s going to happen. For the George Fox logo, we want to separate the colors from each other, so we’ll select “Colors” under the “Multiple Scans” section. The number of scans you specify correlates to the number of objects that Inkscape will create based on the different parts of the image. Since our example is a simple logo with 3 colors, 3 scans will be sufficient. Depending on your image, you’ll have to play around with these settings a bit. For a back and white image, you’ll probably want to use “Brightness Cuttoff” under “Single Scan” and adjust the “Threshold” value until the preview looks correct. Once you click OK, the vector will appear directly on top of the original image, so make sure to drag it off and move or delete the original image. [[File:...traceBitmap.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##You will now have a vector object that consists of several parts. Separate them by right-clicking the vector and selecting “Ungroup” (Ctrl + Shift + G). Now you’ll be able to alter each part of the object. In our example, we’ll go with the one on the right and delete the one on the left. [[File:...separateParts.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Now we can manipulate the colors. Select the object and go to [Object] > [Fill and Stroke] (usually it will already be open on the right sidebar). You will see Fill, Stroke Paint, and Stroke Style on the top right. Fill changes the color of a piece, Stroke Paint changes the color of a stroke, and Stroke Style changes the thickness and style of a stroke. You will see values for R, G, and B, which control color. When each color has a 0 next to it, it will be fully black. When the red has a 255 next to it and the others have 0, it will be fully red. The machine will cut material ONLY when it sees a stroke that is 255, 0, 0, and it will engrave material ONLY when it sees 0, 0, 0. Set these values on your object depending on what you want to engrave or cut, and make sure these values are exact before continuing. Anything that you do not want to cut or engrave, either delete or set to white, which is 255, 255, 255. Be sure to make each a “Flat Color” so that the color is constant throughout the entire object.
##Now that you have an object with the correct fill and stroke, you’ll want to resize it to the size you want. Select your object, and in the top bar of Inkscape you’ll see options for height and width. If you want to scale the object without altering it’s height and width ratios, lock the two together by clicking the lock icon. Measure your material and set the height and width accordingly, or set the values to your desired size. If you imported your file from SolidWorks you shouldn’t need to change these dimensions, just verify that they match the size of your object in SolidWorks. [[File:...Stroke.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Once you have finished your design, it’s time to send it to the Laser Cutter! Go to [File] > [Print] (Ctrl + P) and make sure it is sending to Trotec Engraver but do not click [OK] yet.
##Select [Preferences] to open the engraver properties. Check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as it is in Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “Image Mode” is set to “Color” and “Enhanced Geometries” is not selected. '''NOTE''': “Take From Application” will only work if your Inkscape canvas is square. Make sure to set this correctly, or else set the print size to something larger than either dimension of your print (so long as “Minimize to Jobsize” is enabled.)[[File:...printing.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
##Save these settings by selecting the button that shows the JC logo near the bottom of the Printing Preferences and select Print to send the design to Job Control.
#'''Setting up the Laser Cutter'''
##Turn on the machine using the power switch located on the back of the machine in the left corner. The machine will go through a startup procedure where the cutting bed lowers and the laser travels to its home position. Note that the lid must be closed for the startup procedure to begin. You will hear be some beeping coming from the machine.
##Place your material onto the honeycomb table. '''ALWAYS''' place it in a corner, snug against two sides of the bed. This way if something doesn't go quite perfectly in the cutting process you can return the material back to that corner and try again without having to scrap the entire piece.
##Now it’s time to focus the laser onto your material. Begin by moving the laser head over the middle of your material. Place the focusing tool on the laser head and slowly raise the table until the the focusing tool just barely touches the material. Be sure to raise the bed extra slowly when approaching the focusing tool, so that you can stop the moment you are at the correct height. Use cation, as there is also no safety in place to prevent the material from crashing into the head and damaging this delicate, expensive assembly. The focusing tool will likely fall off the head; this is fine so long as you didn’t overshoot the point at which it first touched. Reference the images below for proper focusing tool placement and laser head controls.[[File:Laser Focus Tool.png|none|thumb|404x404px| Proper placement of the focusing tool. ]][[File:Laser Controls.png|none|thumb|296x296px| Laser control pad. (1) Raise and lower the bed. (2) Move the laser head (5) Air assist. Make sure it is always on to vent fumes properly. ]]
##Remove the focusing tool and return it to its home.
##Press the USB icon found in the bottom right corner of Job Control to connect to the laser cutter. The laser should beep a few times and then a the background of job control will change to a honeycomb pattern to represent the actual honeycomb table. Also, the USB icon will change to a play icon.
#'''Cutting with Job Control'''
##After you send your design to Job Control your design will be named with the name of your Inkscape file, which will appear in the “Jobs” window on the right. If you do not see your job (your design), be sure to select [See All] at the bottom of that window. This lets you see files ALL dpi types, rather than just a specific dpi type. You can check the print preview by double clicking the box showing your preview in the bottom right.
##Using the arrow keys on the laser cutter, move the head until the laser pointer is positioned on your material where you want a corner of your cut to begin. You’ll notice (assuming that you’ve connected the laser cutter to Job Control) that the curser moves within Job Control as you move the laser head.
##Double click/drag your job onto the honeycomb area and position it relative to the cursor. You’ll notice that the corners of your job will snap to the cursor.
##Move the laser head/cursor around to make sure your job fits onto the material you are using. Move the cursor to the opposite, diagonal corner from the one you started from and make sure that the laser head is not off an edge of the material.
##Then select your material at the top left. There are two dropdown menus, one for general material groups, and one for specific material profiles. These settings control the laser’s speed and power which are fine tuned for the material you select. [[File:Mitch5.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##To see the duration of the job, you can click the Update in the bottom left. You are ready to click the Play button in the bottom right. For bigger jobs, the Laser Cutter will take a little bit of time to read the design. If it does not start immediately, don’t be scared. Just be supportive and it will begin shortly. If it does not start at all, ask for help from the supervisor.
##Once the job starts, stay with it. Be sure it is actually engraving/cutting the material. Don’t open the lid (or even lean on it) as this causes the job to cancel without the ability to resume it. If the lasercutter is not doing what it should be click pause in the bottom right of Job Control, or stop it entirely with the stop button. Consult the supervisor for assistance. If something has gone very wrong, lifting the lid will immediately stop the machine, though this is not recommended under normal circumstances.[[File:Mitch6.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##After the job is completed reset the space by cleaning out any scrap materials from the bed and deleting the job from job control and Inkscape.
#'''Cutting with the Rotary Tool'''
##The Rotary Tool lets you cut and engrave cylindrical objects, the most popular of these being Hydroflasks. This part applies after you have already sent the file from Inkscape to the Laser Cutter.
##Turn OFF the machine, remove the honeycomb table, and plug in the rotary tool. The rest of the laser cutter setup is the same as above.
##To start off, go to Settings → Options → Hardware → Accessories. This is where you can switch from the HoneyComb Table to the Rotary Tool and vice versa.
##Enter the diameter of your bottle (using the Calipers in the lab), as it tells the Rotary Tool how fast to turn as it engraves. Do not mess this up, or you will have a stretched/squeezed image. [[File:Rotary 1.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Once you click OK/apply, the window background will look like the image below.
##Double click/drag the job onto the window. It should automatically flip the image so that it will engrave in the proper orientation even though the bottle is held horizontally. [[File:Rotary2.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
##Next, pick the material Hydroflask → Black Mug for a Hydroflask, or one of the glass profiles if engraving glass, and now you are ready to engrave your thing!
##When you are finished, RESET THE SPACE! Put the Rotary Tool away and replace it with the HoneyComb Table.

==Safety==

*Always make sure the material you are using is safe to use. There is an especially high risk when engraving plastics. Fumes from plastics can be toxic. Make sure you find the specific material you are using and check to see if it produces toxic fumes when burned. Never attempt to engrave PVC as it produces chlorine gas (the stuff they used in WWI).
*Once the laser is focused do not touch the button that raises the bed or the laser will crash into the machine which causes damage to the machine.
*Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.
*Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.
*If you feel unsure about anything located in the laser cutting procedure make sure to consult the supervisor for assistance.

==Cut List==
===Approved Materials===
* Acrylic
* Wood
* Vegetable tanned leather

===DO NOT CUT===
* Any plastics containing PVC (polyvinyl chloride)
* Chrome tanned leather
* Hardboard (Masonite)

If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.

==Certification==
Complete the Prototype Lab - Laser Cutters (Speedy 300/400) Module at the link below to gain access to the {{PAGENAME}} (this module satisfies requirements for both the Speedy 300 and the Speedy 400). The Maker Hub Canvas course pertains to all facilities and equipment contained in the Maker Hub; simply complete the quizzes for the facilities/equipment you wish to use in the Maker Hub. Please email makerhub@georgefox.edu if you have any questions.

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/enroll/G7CTPX Maker Hub Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
'''First of all, check your export settings'''

*There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistently: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to [File] > [Document Properties] ( Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File > Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.

'''Cuts are not being made'''

*Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting.
*Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended)
*Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape.
*In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter.

'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''

*Are you using the correct material profile? If not, reset the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below)
*You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting.
*If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu

'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''

*You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. '''DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL!''' You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly.

'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''

*Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.

'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''

*Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts.
*Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''

'''Cuts are not clean'''

*Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it.
*Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it.

'''The material is being cut in unintended places'''

*Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want
*Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them

'''Inkscape is not printing to JobControl'''

* If the status on the print window (in the "Select Printer" section, just below the printer options) says "Error" instead of "Ready," try the following:
** Start → Settings → Devices → Printers & scanners → Trotec Engraver v10.5.0 → Open queue → Printer → Cancel All Documents
*** Deleting all of the items from the queue will also work
* If the above does not work, contact the lab supervisors or Justin.

*

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There are also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General cleaning
|As needed after a cut
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean the Mirror
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Clean the Lens
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|4
|Change Filters
|When filter usage reaches 100%
|Ace
|
|}

#The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.
#The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). The lense should be cleaned with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.
#See above.
#The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter (P/N 37722). This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter (P/N 41041), additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.

Prusa 3D Printer

2023-06-08T16:37:55Z

Jsides22: /* General Procedure */

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__TOC__

== Description ==
The Prusa i3 MK3 is a 3D printer that includes a removable heatbed, filament sensor, and other unique features in order to rapidly prototype projects. The Prusa i3 MK3 comes in two different variants, single filament, and multi filament. It employs [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM Printing]]. The Prusa i3 MK3 is a powerful prototyping device that works best with smaller prints, with the print bed being approximately 8" x 8" x 9". The Prusa has a hard time with more complex geometric shapes, but it excels at printing smaller optimal quality models for testing and trying out products or ideas.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jizyu0nGH18}}

== Documentation ==

==== User manuals ====

[[Media:Prusa3d manual mk3 en 3 04.pdf|Prusa 3D Printer User Manual]]

[https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ Product Home Page]

==== '''Terminology''' ====
* Nozzle/Extruder: The nozzle (or extruder) is the part of a 3D printer which deposits the molten plastic filament onto the 3D printer bed. The extruder can reach 200°-300°C, depending on the filament used, but typically stays around 215°C for regular prints.
* Heatbed: The heatbed is a 9.83" x 8.3" x 8.3" plate where the filament will be "printed" on. The bed heats up to around 60°C. Heated beds typically prevent the plastic from warping by keeping it warm. Warping is a common issue that happens on 3D printers, where the plastic of the print cools at an uneven rate, leaving the print wavy and not the way you intended.
* Feeder: The feeder is the part of the 3D printer that "feeds" the filament to the nozzle. Sometimes "feeder" and "extruder" are used synonomously, so it's important when you're teaching someone to differentiate whether or not you're talking about the ''nozzle'' extruder or the ''feeder'' extruder. Feeders are typically composed of stepper motors, gears, and sometimes bolts and pulleys to guide the filament to the hot end.
* Fan: There are usually two fans on the nozzle of a 3D printer, and they serve the purpose of cooling the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. If the plastic is super hot, we don't want it to move as soon as it is in place on the part we're making, otherwise our part will turn out warped or failed. The fans are put in place to strategically cool the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. You are able to turn the fan speeds up and down in the slicer software (if that is a provided feature), but you can manually configure it on the printer as well.
* Stepper Motor: There are two main places where you'll find stepper motors on a 3D printer. There's a motor for each axes, one for the x, y, and z. These motors receive instructions from the gcode to move the certain axes at certain points to create your print. There is also a stepper motor in the extruder setup, pushing and pulling the filament whenever more or less is needed for the current print.
* Infill: Infill has to do with a 3D print's structural integrity. It can be multiple shapes and patterns (providing different strength optimizations), different sizes, and different thicknesses. Infill ranges anywhere from 0% (hollow) to 100% (solid). It is very unlikely you'll ever want a print to be 100% infill, because it takes an insane amount of filament and a lot of time to complete. Most 3D prints are 15% infill since it is the most optimal choice for cost efficiency and durability. If your concern is cost, a lesser infill density is a good way to go. If strength and mass is important, a higher density (between 30%-50%) is a good estimate. When using a higher infill, always double check to make sure it's a good idea for your part, and that you're using the right machine. Other 3D printers in the prototype lab have the option of a stronger filament than PLA or ABS, so it may be a better idea to print for strength on those rather than the Prusas.
* Filament: There are many different kinds of filament you can use on the 3D printer, ranging from PLA, to ABS, TPU to Nylon. The most common of these are PLA and ABS; the Prusas are usually set up with PLA. PLA stands for Polylactic Acid, it is the most common desktop 3D printing filament because it is odorless and very hard to warp on its own, therefore not always a need for a heated bed. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. It's one of the most commercial versions of plastic available (found in legos, packaging, and more)--it's durable, scratch resistant, and tough. Heated beds are a must with ABS filament because it is so temperature sensitive, so it warps very easily. The Prusas use 1.75 mm filament.
* CAD Modeling and Thingiverse: There are two ways you can 3D print models. You can either design your own with a CAD (computer-aided design) software, or you can find something similar to what you want on websites like Thingiverse. Thingiverse has all sorts of community-contributed designs, which you can download the .stl files for, slice, and print the models. As for modeling your own projects, there are multiple softwares you can use such as SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Autodesk Inventor, FreeCAD, and many more.
* Slicing: Each 3D printer uses a slicer software, a software where you can import the model file (usually an .stl file) onto a computerized build plate, resize, change up the nozzle and bed temperatures, adjust the infill and precision, and more. The slicer software takes into consideration all your configurations, then "slices" it into a .gcode file, a set of instructions for the x, y, and z dimensions. The 3D printer can read and tell the stepper motors what to do from the set of instructions within the gcode. The slicer software used for the Prusa i3 MK3 is called Prusa Slicer.

== Training ==

==== Operation ====
Printing on the Prusa will always start with an STL file that you export from Solidworks or download from the internet. However, the printer cannot interpret a STL file and must be converted to a gcode file which instructs the printer on how to complete the print. The process of creating a gcode is called "slicing" and is done in the Prusa Slicer software. Prusa Slicer allows you to customize any part of the print process and is color coded to distinguish simple settings from expert settings so you can tell which settings can be adjusted without risk of messing things up. For the most part, the preset setting options will work well but feel free to experiment with settings to improve print detail or speed (check out [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kW9SnK4LKc this video] for example). After you have sliced your STL file the rest of the setup is simple. Save the new gcode to the SD card found in the printer, turn on the machine, select "print from SD card" to find your file, and then click to start the print. Make sure to clean the print bed with isopropyl alcohol before the print starts and watch the print for the first five minutes to make sure it doesn't fail. Also, the video below walks through the setup process in detail starting from downloading a stl file which is helpful.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ttg2wEjD784&list=PLP1rv37BojTfJ5TjDXiSNqDnEPnvChsYZ&index=11}}

==== Demonstration ====
The student will need download, setup, and successfully start a print of their choice, providing it is within reason and follows Prototype Lab guidelines. If possible, they should stay as long as possible in case a print fails, which will be an opportunity to teach them basic troubleshooting of the machine.

==== General Procedure ====
Setting up a print:
# Once you have a model you would like to print (which you can find on either thingiverse or model one yourself), you will be using a software called Prusa Slicer to slice your .stl files into a .gcode file, which the printer will interpret and print your model from.
# Open Prusa Slicer. When you open Prusa Slicer, it looks like this:[[File:Slicer Home.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]At the top, you have your basic toolbar where you can import files and fine tune print settings. The toolbar on the left side of the screen is used for rotating/orienting, moving, scaling, and even cutting the model. The window on the right side of the screen is used to select the printer being used and select preset print settings. You can also choose between simple, advanced, and expert settings in this window. Feel free to select any of these modes. Throughout the software each setting is color coded to match these skill levels to make it easy to tell which settings are simplest to adjust.
#To import your file, click on "File > Import > Import STL", and you'll be presented with your file system to choose whatever model you have ready. Click "open" to import the file.
#Once the model is imported you will need to orient it correctly. The toolbar on the left has two options for doing this. One is the basic rotate tool which allows you to rotate a specific number of degrees around any axis. You can drag the model with this tool as well but this is not advised because you may not line the face up with the print bed properly which may result in print errors. If you do not know the rotation angle you need use the second option, place on face, to rotate one face of your model to match the print bed. The correct orientation will change based on your model so make sure to check out the short video below for some tips.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGhgaypou6E&list=PLTCCNNvHC8PDR_jQy609toqq8EAfhiOOL&index=26}}
#Set the rest of the object setting using the left toolbar.
#* In the Position settings, you can adjust where on the printer bed you would like your print to start. Due to automatic bed leveling, the center of the printer bed is always the best place to put your model. If you are printing multiple parts, then arrange everything from the center outwards. You can click and drag your model around and see the change in the X and Y coordinates, and if you need it to be super precise, you can use the keyboard to change the values in the Position settings.
#* Scale is important, it determines how large you want your print to be. If you modeled your print to specific dimensions, Prusa Slicer will import it with the correct dimensions, and you can skip this section. If it is too large, you can scale the model down to 70%-90% and see how that affects the size, and vice versa, changing the scale to 110%-130% if need be.
#Set the correct printer settings.
#* Below is the settings you'll most likely be working with, such as the material, quality, infill, support, and sizing.[[File:Basic Settings.png|none|thumb]]On the Prusa's, we currently only use PLA, so we'll always be keeping the Material option as Prusa PLA.
#* The quality of the print has to do with the size of each individual layer. The finer the quality, the longer the time is to print your model. Almost always you'll want your print to be Optimal quality (0.15mm), since about all prints turn out good with that setting, but you can choose from several other presets as well. A smaller layer height will allow for more definition in the vertical plane but will take longer to print. Each layer height has a preset for fast and quality that you can choose from based on your print needs. If you are feeling adventurous then the pint and printer settings can be individually adjusted instead of using a preset.
#* Next, you'll change the infill. If you don't know how much infill you need, check out the definition of infill above or talk to the supervisor for help. This option will almost always stay at 15% infill.
#* Now we come to support! Support is extra material printed around your model to support tougher geometric angles and overhangs that the printer can't get to on its own. It is easily torn off at the end of the print.
#* The Brim option is for bed adhesion. You will typically want this option, since it helps prevent the warping of the part you are printing. A brim is most important for prints that have a small surface area that is in contact with the plate.
# When all those settings are complete, you can click "Slice now" in the bottom right corner, and Slicer will give you a time and filament estimate for your print. If they seem reasonable, you can save the newly "sliced" .gcode file to the SD card that will go into the printer! Do this by clicking "Export G code." You can always go back and adjust the settings to fit your time and/or filament needs before saving the file.
Starting a Print:
# Thoroughly clean the build plate with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel.
# Once you have the gcode file on the SD card, put the SD card into the Prusa (on the left side of the orange menu), and turn the printer on using the power switch on the left side of the printer. The printer will read the SD card and initialize itself, then you can start.
# In the menu, there is an option you want called "Print from SD Card" that will take you to a list of all the .gcode files on the SD card. Select this by rotating the knob until this option is highlighted and then press down on the knob.
# Search until you find your file, and then select it.
# Make sure there is enough filament on the printer for your print, or it will fail midway!
# Naturally, the printer will set itself up for PLA settings, which is approximately 215°C for the extruder, and 60°C for the heated bed. This will take a few minutes. Often filament will start oozing out of the nozzle once it is fully heated, but don't worry, the printer will clean off the filament after calibration. If these temperatures are not correct, click to open a menu and the scroll to the "Tune" option. From there the temperatures can be adjusted.
# Make sure that there are no filament strings attached to the nozzle as the print is starting.
# Watch the print for at least 5 minutes to make sure it adheres properly and then every 5 minutes for the next 20 minutes.
Finishing a Print:
# When the print completes successfully, the Prusa will delightfully present the print by moving the print bed forward, and the extruder will go back to the homing location. On the menu screen it will display how long the last print took, and the other normal settings like the temperature of the print bed and nozzle.
# To get the print off of the bed, take the magnetic steel bed off and bend it just slightly to pop the brim of the print off of the bed. From there you can take the print off carefully by hand.
# If the print was successful, congratulations! If not, time to diagnose the problem and try again.
# Put the magnetic bed back onto the Prusa, and if there are no more prints needing to be done, power it off.
Loading New Filament:
# When the printer runs out of filament, typically you'll want to find a shop aid to help you change the filament.
# All you need to do is go to the menu, select the "Unload Filament" option, and the printer should start heating up.
# Once it heats up, it'll unload the filament and you can pull it out of the extruder.
# Be sure to tuck the end of the filament through one of the holes on the spool before storing it. If this is not done, it can cause knots in the spool which cause failed prints and damage to printers.
# As for loading new filament, find the option in the menu labelled "Autoload Filament", and the printer will walk you through the instructions for loading the new spool of filament.
Pausing or Stopping a Print:
# To pause a print in the middle of the job, press the knob and it'll pull up a printing menu. There are two options near the bottom, "Stop Print" and "Pause Print". If the print is failing, you definitely want to stop it. If you need to change filament or think you can save the print before it fails anymore, you can pause the print.
Possible Print Failure Causes:
# Failure of material to adhere to the bed.
# No support around the model.
# The first layer of the print warps.
# The brim gets torn and dragged around

==TVs==

Looking for a project that uses the Prusa 3D printer? Check out this TV for an [[Egg Shaker]].

== Safety ==
* Be careful what you touch; the nozzle and filament leaving it are over 200°C which will easily cause burns. Although only 60°C, the build plate should not be touched during printing.
* Keep hands away from the travel rods because they will pinch fingers with ease.
* Support material can be sharp so be careful when removing it.

==Approved Filaments==
* PLA

== Certification ==
[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1233 Prusa Canvas Course]

== Troubleshooting ==
Here are some ways your print can fail in the beginning, and how to troubleshoot it:
* '''Brim is pulled off of bed and dragged around by the nozzle:''' If it's just starting the brim of the print and having trouble adhering to the bed, you can pull off the first few rounds of the brim and let the print continue. Sometimes the outer part of the brim has more trouble adhering than the inner parts. If it continues to fail, stop the print. Make sure you have the best orientation possible for your part, make sure the nozzle of the printer is clean, and try starting the print again. If it continues to fail, find a supervisor to help you.
* '''Parts of the print detach mid-print:''' Stop the print. Often if parts of the print detach from the model it is due to failure to adhere to support. Ask a supervisor if the geometry of your part is too complex for the Prusas. If not, adjust the sizing, change around some support settings, and try the print again. If it continues to fail, try to break the part into smaller prints and assemble them when done.
* '''Extruded filament is too thin/not adhering to layers OR Filament will not come out of nozzle:''' When the filament is too thin or not coming out, there is often a blockage or small piece of filament in the extruder. Ask a supervisor for help.
* '''Print will not adhere to bed:''' If your 3D print will not adhere to the bed after lots of tries, the last resort can be some glue stick. For trickier prints with small bases, sometimes this is the trick. Always make sure you try the brim option before using the glue stick on the printer. When the print is finished, clean off the printer bed.
* '''Support fails:''' If the support gets really stringy as the print continues and in turn fails the print, see if you can have a supervisor help you change the density of the support. Double check that the printer is not shaking too much as you print your model. If you still don't know what to do after your print fails, ask a supervisor.
* '''First layer of print warps:''' If the first layer of your print warps and affects the rest of your print, lower the bed temperature, and start the print again. If it continues to warp, try adding some adhesive on the printer bed.
* '''Thermal Runaway:''' Thermal Runaway is a safety feature designed to prevent the printer from accidentally catching fire. If your printer's thermistor would somehow dislodge itself, electronic parts would get a lower (incorrect) temperature reading. In an attempt to compensate for the lower temperature, the heater would reach dangerously high temperatures, with the printer potentially becoming a fire hazard. Thermal Runaway prevents that from happening. Thermal Runaway is configured to shut down the printer when the temperature drops by more than 15°C for more than 45 seconds. If the temperature reading doesn't recover in the set time period, the printer will shut down and display the Thermal Runaway error. All hotend heaters are thoroughly tested, so they can run at 200°C with the print cooling fan at a 100% speed. To print materials that require higher temperatures (like PLA at 215°C), the speed of the fan must be decreased in the Prusa Slicer software or manually during the print. Incorrect fan speeds are sometimes the result of using gcode from a different type of printer. Pay attention to your prints as they start the second layer, as this is usually when the print cooling fan kicks in.

 

If your issue or error is not found here, ask the supervisor for help, or you can research on this website: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#section-fdm-3d-printing-problems-my-print-failed

Failed Calibration:

If the printer fails while calibrating, there will be an error message that suggests you clean the nozzle off and retry the print.

Crash Detected:

When the nozzle hits something it's not used to, such as an obstruction in the print, the print bed, or something else that stops the extruder from moving, the printer will error and say it crashed. It will ask you to clean off any excess filament and stuff that gets in the way of the extruder. If it continues to fail because of a crash, ask a supervisor for help.

== Maintenance ==

==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|1
|Wiping Down Buildplate
|Before every new print
|Student
|-
|2
|Cleaning of Nozzle
|When needed
|Ace
|-
|3
|Clean and lubricate travel rods
|When needed
|Ace
|}
# Grab a paper towel from the sink and the isopropyl alcohol from next to the Formlabs printer. Use these to wipe down the build plate and make sure you do not touch the plate after doing this because that will get oils on it.
# Raise the print head in the z axis until the nozzle is easily accessible. Use tweezers, paper towels, isopropyl alcohol, or any other substances to remove filament from the nozzle. If the nozzle is clogged, use a wrench to remove it and clean out any filament inside. A heat gun may be helpful for this.
# Wipe down the smooth travel rods with a paper towel and then re-lubricate them. Clean the threaded rods with a brush and then re-lubricate them.

Formlabs 3D Printer

2023-06-02T20:09:45Z

Jsides22: /* General Procedure */

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__TOC__

==Description==

The Form 3 is Formlab's 3rd generation printer boasting a whole range of new features including a new peeling mechanism, heated tank, touchscreen display, wireless controls and an automated resin system. The resulting prints that come off of the Form 3 have consistently been among the highest quality objects to come off of any desktop 3D printer. This machine is best used with the [[Form Wash and Cure]] <ref name=":0">Description adapted from [https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/form-2 3dhubs].</ref>

The Form 3 employs [[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]] (Stereolithography Apparatus). Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled in the PreForm software to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This ensures the wiper blade in the resin tank doesn't remove the print from the build plate. When reviewing the supports in PreForm, check to make sure all supports are created in areas from which they can be easily removed, or that supports created in inaccessible areas won't interfere with the print's intended function. Also check to make sure no supports are created on hard edges, as any placed supports will break up the edge, and removing them properly takes longer than necessary and can potentially damage the print.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tn5zA5bNSE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here
<gallery>
File:TouchScreen.jpg|Touchscreen
File:...resinCartridge.jpg|Resin Cartridge
File:...form2BuildPlate.jpg|Build Platform
File:...ResinTray.png|Resin Tank
</gallery>

[https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Quick-Start-Guide?language=en_US Quick Start Guide]

[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/ Product Home Page]

[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/tech-specs/ Tech Specs]

[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/design-specs/ Design Specs]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Form 3 is most useful for its ability to print incredibly accurate parts, with layers as thin as .025mm thick, depending on the resin selected. Due to the size of the Form 2, it can only be used to print smaller pieces, and the extra layering for detail combined with the de-lamination process also causes the Form 3 to generally be the slowest printer in the lab. Unless an exception is made, a model with supports included should be no larger than 30mL worth of resin. If specific material properties are needed for a print, the Form 3 is a good option to look into thanks to the many differing resins available for use.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete understanding of the Form 3, students will prepare a part, upload it to the Form 3, and print it.

====General Procedure====

#Setting up PreForm
##PreForm is the software we will use to import or model to the printer. When connecting to PreForm you need to make sure the wifi is enabled and connected to bruin Secure. Make sure the correct printer is selected as well.
##To begin with, make sure the print is under the approved cost/size cutoff ($7), or the person printing has special approval to exceed this limit.
##If a window pops up saying the print is broken, hit the repair button then proceed as normal.
##Parts must be shrunk to fit within the build area, further size edits can be made in the Size tab.
###The goal is to reduce the horizontal area covered with each pass of the wiper. Start with auto-orienting the part using the 'Orient Selected' button in the Orientation tab, this is a good place to start and will make it easier to see if the part needs further orientation.[[File:Size set.jpg|none|thumb| Image 1-Model too big for build plate--Image 2-Model shrunk to fit build plate]]
##Don't place supports on hard edges (right angles) or in inaccessible places. This will cause the print to be unprintable.
##Every part that needs support should have support - PreForm will highlight unsupported areas in red, place supports until the red areas go away. '''Check the part thoroughly because PreForm will not let you print with unsupported areas.'''
##Supports can be added, edited, and removed in the PreForm Supports tab.
###Support density should be between .5 and .7. '''''[Note - Is this a setting or a dimension?]'''''
###Support point size should be between .6mm and .8mm.
###These values can be edited if necessary to ensure printability, just use common sense when adjusting values.
##The Layout tab can be used to add additional copies of a part.
##Ensure you are connected to Bruin Secure wifi with the proper printer and resin type selected in Preform prior to printing. Additionally, make sure that the resin you want is already installed in the printers. If the resin needs to be changed to the one that you want, ask a Lab Volunteer to help you.
#Choosing a Resin Type
##Go through each of these resin types to evaluate which material you will make your part out of. Once you have finished, you can send the file from the computer to the Formlabs printer
##Black/grey standard: the Standard Resins section of [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material].
###Pros: high detail, matte surfaces, good for small, intricate features.
###Cons: not particularly strong, stretchy, or flexible.
##Tough: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Tough-Resin?language=en_US Tough]
###Pros: good for hard edges, snap fits, and high-stresses.
###Cons: bad for fine details and rigid prints, will not stretch as much as Durable.
##Durable: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Durable-Resin?language=en_US Durable]
###Pros: low-friction, high impact strength, good for parts that are both rigid and flexible.
###Cons: bad for fine detail parts.
##Flexible: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Flexible-Resin?language=en_US Flexible]
###Pros: can simulate rubber when uncured, good for functional prototyping.
###Cons: bad for fine detail or applications when rigidity or hardness are required.
##See the respective links for each resin for in-depth descriptions of each resin's properties and suggested applications, or look at [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material] for a shorter overview. Most resins do not handle high temperatures or constant loading well.
#Operating the Touchscreen
##You will be able to start your print using the touchscreen on the Form 3. If it is sleeping, just press the button and it should wake up.
##When it wakes up, you will likely see this screen. It displays the most recently prepared job and gives you the option to print now by pressing the blue button on the bottom right of the screen.[[File:TouchScreen.jpg|none|thumb]]
##There are two other buttons you can press on the left screen. The USB button will take you to the settings of the printer, so you will not need to go here. The checklist button brings a list of every job that has been uploaded to the printer, so you will want to be selecting this one to find your print. When you find your print, select "print now". The printer will make sure that you perform the appropriate setup before it starts printing, such as inserting the tank in the back of the printer and assuring that the build plate is cleared of other printed parts.
##The print will begin its process once you hit Print Now! A time estimate will be provided.
#Removing Prints
##Your part should now be finished! Follow these steps to clean it up.
##Finished prints
###Use a scraping tool to remove the print and any extra material from the build plate, taking care to not scratch the build plate. Go as carefully and as slowly as needed to prevent damaging the print.
####The build plate stand can be used for easier removal.
###Wash the print in the Form Wash.
###If the print is being cured, only remove support material after it has been run through the Form Cure.
###Supports should be clipped off, and any leftover support material can be sanded down if desired.
##Failed prints
###Follow the same process for finished prints for removing.
###'''When a print fails, the build plate must be cleaned and run through the Wash''' before a new print can be started, as leftover residue from the failed print can cause subsequent prints to also fail. You will also need to check the resin tank for clumps as well as double check the model orientation. Don't forget to update the job log as well.
#Washing and Curing Prints
##See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page.
#Changing Resin
##If the Formlabs Printer resin tray does not contain the resin you want, allow Lab volunteers to provide the desired resin.
##Remove, clean, and replace the build plate.
###Pull lever holding build plate in place up, allowing the build plate to be removed.
###Place the build plate on the holding rack in the Form Wash. Run the build plate through the Wash to remove resin. For the build plate, the Wash should be set to 10 minutes.
###Let the build plate air dry before replacing, secure by flipping lever down.
##Remove and replace resin tank and wiper.
###Firmly pull tank back towards the touch screen until it pops loose of the printer.
###Place the tank in the appropriately labeled tank storage container in the cabinet under the printer.
###Remove the desired tank from the storage container and place the container back in the cabinet.
###Slot the new resin tank into place in the printer by putting it in and sliding it towards the back of the machine.
###Use a scraping tool to dredge bottom of new resin tank for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, remove any found bits.
###Be sure to clean up any resin that spills during this process.
##Remove and replace the resin cartridge in the back of the printer.
###Close the lid of the cartridge if it's open.
###Pull cartridge out of the printer.
###Wipe dry the resin drip on the bottom of the cartridge, then store.
###Insert new resin cartridge, '''of the same resin as the tank'''.
###Open lid on resin cartridge before starting a print, and close after.

==Safety==
The most dangerous part of using the Form 3 is taking the part off of the build plate. The scraping tool could hurt your little fingers, so make sure you do not hit them. Also, the alcohol used to clean the print is not for drinking purposes. It is both against the lifestyle contract and very harmful to you if you drink it, so do not do it.

==Approved Resins==
*

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1237 Canvas Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
If a print fails, the most likely cause is contamination of the resin. Before proceeding, see the procedure for Failed Prints. Contamination of the resin involves leftover material on the build plate, or particulates in the resin tank. Before attempting a new print, thoroughly clean the build plate, and dredge the resin tank for any loose particles. Another cause is incorrect orientation of the print. Check the print file in question, and ensure it has been canted accordingly to prevent the de-laminating process from removing the print from the build plate. Make sure to also update the job log.

Old resin and resin tanks can also present issues. '''Don't ever mix resin types.''' If a resin tanks is particularly cloudy on the bottom, the laser will be prevented from being able to penetrate the tank, and cause adhesion issues for the print. Resin can also go bad after sitting for long periods of time or being used heavily. This can be evidenced by discoloration of the resin or separation of the resin into unmixed layers.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

#Dredging: Every few prints the resin tank should be checked and dredged with a scraping tool to search for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, as well as when resin tanks are switched out, and when a print fails. Remove any found bits. Dredging is done by sweeping a scraping tool back and forth across the bottom of the resin tank, essentially mixing up the resin to stir up any loose bits. Take care while dredging to not scrape the tank. See a resin's particular page on the Formlabs website for additional cleaning instruction. If the tank is not cleanable, switch out the resin tank. If the problem persists, it's possible the resin cartridge needs to be switched out as well.
#Alcohol in the Form Wash must be changed once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.
#Old resin and resin tanks will occasionally need to be changed out
#[https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000003904-Form-2 Form 2 Sources and Help]

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Dredging
|Every few prints
|Lab Volunteer
|-
|Changing Alcohol
|Once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.
|Lab Volunteer
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use. Reset The Space!
|Student
|}

__TOC__

==Resources==
[[Form Wash and Cure]]

[[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]]

Link to shop [[Equipment]] page

<references />

Speedy 400

2023-05-31T00:13:51Z

Jsides22: /* Cut List */

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|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=Trotec
|Has model=Speedy 400
|Has serial number=S4-2209 / 01422-11690
|Has life expectancy=
|Has year of manufacture or purchase=
|Has replacement cost=
|Has icon=File:Speedy400_Laser.png
|Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon
|Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Speedy 400.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 400 Laser Engraver
|Has description=
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|Has view license key=0009999KWTSZCF9F
|Has activation license key=00099992K2C69A5B
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Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

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Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Trotec Speedy 400 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. The working area of the laser is 40" x 24". This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCwJ8xWRpIE}}

==Documentation==
The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. Should be able to train on either the 300 or 400 and use both machines.


====Terminology====

* Inkscape - The program you will be using to design is Inkscape. It allows you to type in words, edit logos, make your own logos and such to engrave or cut out of your material.
* Job Control - The program that interacts with the laser cutter to perform a cut. Job Control lets you set up/create Material Profiles, change between the HoneyComb Table and the Rotary tool (mostly used for Hydroflasks), and choose a location to cut on your material.

* Focusing tool - Used to focus the laser cutter.

* Stroke - This is the type of line that should be used when cutting.

* Repeat Cut Line - Can be used in JobControl to reproduce the same cut line that was just cut.
* Outline Job - Can be used in JobControl to trace the job that is going to be cut to show where job extends.
* Bitmap - Representation of an image as bits of information (pixels); used to allow logos/stencils to be changed into colors.
* Vector - Representation of an image as shapes, rather than bits; used to allow logos/stencils to be modified as objects.
* Trace Bitmap - Can be used on a bitmap to to turn it into a vector.
* Honeycomb Table - This is the honeycomb shaped metal tray that holds flat material during a cut. It is used for most cut jobs.
* Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.

====Material Settings====

* '''[[Media:TrotecMaterials 2022.09.07 10.58.14.xml|Speedy 400 Material Settings 7 SEP 2022]]'''

====Manuals====

* '''[[Media:JobControl-Manual-EN.pdf|Job Control Operation Manual]]'''
* '''[[Media:Speedy-400-Manual-EN.pdf|Speedy 400 Operation Manual]]'''

==Training==
====Operation====

Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. When you use SolidWorks to generate a .dxf file the correct face must be selected prior to saving the file. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] > [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.

====Demonstration====

First, import a George Fox logo into Inkscape and set it up so that the logo is an engrave with a cut circle surrounding it. Once this is done, print the job to job control and run the job on a piece of scrap material.

====General Procedure====

[[File:trotec_laser_engraving.mp4|thumb|none|400px|This video shows the complete process of completing an engrave. See below for details on doing this. ]]

# Setting up a Job
## First off, to get your design, just copy an image and paste it into Inkscape or find a pdf version of the file and open it. If you are cutting a part from a Solidworks file it must be saved as a dxf before importing to Inkscape.
## To open a dxf file go to [File] > [Import]. If a dxf file is being used feel free to skip to step 7.
## Measure the size of your material, and set the page in Inkscape to those dimensions. You can alter the dimensions of the page you are putting the image on by selecting [File] > [Document Properties], and even the width (W) and height (H) image itself in the top. If you want to keep the image dimensions consistent, but just scale it down, click the lock button between these dimensions. If you want to make your own design using text, squares, circles, etc, you can find everything you need in the column on the far left of the client.[[File:...gfuLogo.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
## Once you have your design, we need to alter the colors a little bit so the Laser Cutter can understand what you want it to do. It goes like this: a red stroke will cut, and anything that is black will engrave. A stroke is merely an option that outlines the object you select.
##In order to do this, we need to split up the image into different pieces. This is called vectoring, where it will divide the image into different pieces based on shapes and color. Just select the logo, right click, and select Trace Bitmap. You will be given options shown in the picture below. For this application,we want to separate the colors from each other, so we select the Colors option. The number of scans you have selected will define how closely the vector output will replicate the actual photo (the bitmap) or how many colors you want the vector to tape. Since this is a simple logo and we have 3 colors/shades to take, 3 scans will be enough. If the detail is not good enough, try the other options and have some fun. Once this process is finished, the vector will appear directly on top of the original image, so make sure to drag it off and separate the two before beginning.[[File:...traceBitmap.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
## Since there are a few separate parts to this vector, it is possible to break apart these and alter the image however you want. Select the image, right click and go to Ungroup. Now you can mess with each individual part! You can take either of these designs and delete them, essentially they will cut out and engrave the same design. Let's go with the one on the right. [[File:...separateParts.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
## Now we can manipulate the colors. Select the object and go to [Object] > [Fill and Stroke] (usually it will already be open on the right sidebar). You will see Fill, Stroke Paint, and Stroke Style on the top right. Fill changes the color of a piece, Stroke Paint changes the color of a stroke, and Stroke Style changes the thickness and style of a stroke. You will see values for R, G, and B, where all colors can be made using these. When each color has a 0 next to it, it will be fully black. When the red has a 255 next to it and the others have 0, it will be fully red. Make sure you check these bit values before continuing, since the machine is set to cutting material ONLY when it sees 255, 0, 0, and it will engrave material ONLY when it sees 0, 0, 0. Everything else, make it white, which is 255, 255, 255. Be sure to make each a Flat Color so that the color is constant throughout the entire object.[[File:...Stroke.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
## Once you have finished your design, it’s time to send it to the Laser Cutter! Hit print, make sure it is sending to Trotec Engraver but do not click [OK] yet.
## Select [Preferences] to open the engraver properties. You will want to make sure the [Minimize to Job size] option is NOT selected and that the [Height] - [Width] values match the page size selected in Inkscape. DO NOT have [Enhanced Geometries} selected because it causes the curved parts of your design to be unrecognized once it is uploaded to the Job Control.[[File:...printing.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
## Then you can save these settings by selecting the button that shows the JC logo near the bottom of the Printing Preferences.
## Select Print to send the design to Job Control.
# Setting up the Laser Cutter
## Turn on the machine using the power switch located on the back of the machine in the left corner. The machine will go through a startup procedure where the cutting bed lowers and the laser travels to its home position. Note that the lid must be closed for the startup procedure to begin and there will be some beeping coming from the machine which is normal.
## Place your material onto the honeycomb table, preferably in the upper left corner.
## Now it’s time to focus the laser onto your material. Begin by moving the laser head over the middle of your material; then place the focusing tool on the laser head and slowly raise the table until the the focusing tool falls off. Raise the bed extra slow when reaching the focusing tool so the bed can be stopped the moment the tool falls off. Reference the images below for proper focusing tool placement and laser head controls.[[File:Laser Focus Tool.png|none|thumb|404x404px| Proper placement of the focusing tool. ]][[File:Laser Controls.png|none|thumb|296x296px| Laser control pad. (1) Raise and lower the bed. (2) Move the laser head (5) Air assist. Make sure it is always on to vent fumes properly. ]]
## Remove the focusing tool and return it to its home.
## Press the USB icon found in the bottom right corner of job control to connect to the laser cutter. The laser should beep a few times and then a the background of job control will change to a honeycomb pattern to represent the actual honeycomb table. Also, the USB icon will change to a play icon.
# Cutting with Job Control
## After you send your design to Job Control it will let you name your design and it will store it in a window on the right. If you do not see your design, be sure to select [See All] at the bottom of that window. This lets you see files ALL dpi types, rather than just a specific dpi type.
## Double click/drag your design into the middle area and lock the top left corner of the design into the bottom right of the cursor.
## Then select your material at the top left.You can check the print preview by double clicking the box showing your preview in the bottom right.[[File:Mitch5.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## If the cursor is not already visible, be sure that the laser cutter is connected to Job Control via the USB symbol in the bottom right. You can click the Update in the bottom left to see the duration of the job, and now you are ready to click the Play button in the bottom right. For bigger jobs, the Laser Cutter will take a little bit of time to read the design. If it does not start immediately, don’t be scared. Just be supportive and it will begin shortly. If it does not start at all, ask for help from a worker.
## Once the job starts, stay with it. Be sure it is actually engraving/cutting the material. If it is not doing what it should be, stop it by lifting the lid and consult the supervisor for assistance.[[File:Mitch6.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## After the job is completed reset the space by cleaning out any scrap materials from the bed and deleting the job from job control and Inkscape.
# Cutting with the Rotary Tool
## The Rotary Tool lets you cut and engrave cylindrical objects, the most popular of these being Hydroflasks. This part applies after you have already sent the file from CoreLDRAW to the Laser Cutter.
## Turn OFF the machine, remove the honeycomb table, and plug in the rotary tool. The rest of the laser cutter setup is the same as above.
## To start off, go to Settings → Options → Hardware → Accessories. This is where you can switch from the HoneyComb Table to the Rotary Tool and vice versa.
## Enter the diameter of your bottle (using the Calipers in the lab), as it tells the Rotary Tool how fast to turn as it engraves. Do not mess this up, or you will have a stretched/squeezed image. [[File:Rotary 1.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## Once you click OK/apply, the window background will look like the image below.
## Double click/drag the job onto the window. It should automatically flip the image so that it will engrave in the proper orientation even though the bottle is held horizontally. [[File:Rotary2.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## Next, pick the material Hydroflask → Black Mug for a Hydroflask, or one of the glass profiles if engraving glass, and now you are ready to engrave your thing!
## When you are finished, RESET THE SPACE! Put the Rotary Tool away and replace it with the HoneyComb Table.

==Safety==
* Always make sure the material you are using is safe to use. There is an especially high risk when engraving plastics. Fumes from plastics can be toxic. Make sure you find the specific material you are using and check to see if it produces toxic fumes when burned. Never attempt to engrave PVC as it produces chlorine gas (the stuff they used in WWI).
* Once the laser is focused do not touch the button that raises the bed or the laser will crash into the machine which causes damage to the machine.
* Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.
* Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.
* If you feel unsure about anything located in the laser cutting procedure make sure to consult the supervisor for assistance.

==Cut List==
===Approved Materials===
* Acrylic
* Wood
* Vegetable tanned leather
* Paper / Cardstock
* Cardboard

===DO NOT CUT===
* Any plastics containing PVC (polyvinyl chloride)
* Chrome tanned leather

If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1223 Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
'''First of all, check your export settings'''
* There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistantly: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to File > Document Properties (or press Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File > Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.
'''Cuts are not being made'''
* Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting.
* Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended)
* Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape.
* In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter.
'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''
* Are you using the correct material profile? If not, rest the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below)
* You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting.
* If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu
'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''
* You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL! You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly.
'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''
* Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.
* Are you importing from SolidWorks? For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.
'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''
* Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts.
* Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''
'''Cuts are not clean'''
* Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it.
* Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it.
'''The material is being cut in unintended places'''
* Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want
* Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them

*

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There are also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General cleaning
|As needed after a cut
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean the Mirror
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Clean the Lens
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|4
|Change Filters
|When filter usage reaches 100%
|Ace
|
|}
# The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.
# The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). First use the air bulb to blow any dust off of the lense, prior to cleaning with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.
# See above.
# The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter. This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter, additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.

Metal Laser Cutter

2023-05-24T18:41:26Z

Jsides22: /* Terminology */

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|Is located in facility=Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has make=FabLight
|Has model=Tube and Sheet FL4500
|Has serial number=10021.02-0076-301
|Has life expectancy=
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Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Serial Number: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has serial number}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: Machine Shop

__TOC__

==Safety First==
[[File:Safety First HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here are some safety instructions for the {{PAGENAME}}. Remember... SAFETY FIRST!!!
*Laser cutting or engraving of many materials can create hazardous fumes. These fumes may be dangerous to breathe and can damage the FabLight. Consult Manufacturer’s Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for all materials before laser cutting. The user of the FabLight is responsible for exhaust ventilation and removing cutting fumes from the working area. Before operating the FabLight, make sure that the exhaust system is working properly.
*There are often sharp edges left on the material from the cutting process. Be careful handling a fresh cut piece and use the deburring tools to remove any sharp edges.
*On a similar note a fresh cut piece is usually hot so check the temperature with the back of your hand before picking it up.
*Make sure to use tabs to prevent collision damage with the cutting head.
*Before opening any covers, turn off the machine power and remove the key to make sure no cutting operations will happen while you are working inside the the laser cutter.

==Description==

FabLight FL4500 is a versatile and powerful laser cutter that is capable of engraving and cutting sheet and tube metal. It will cut and engrave on square, rectangle, and round tubes up to 2" diameter as well as sheet metal. Internal features on tubing such as complex holes, slots, notches, and other features along the tube are also very easy to cut. It is equipped with an industrial-quality IPG fiber laser and precise mechanical control, you can make just about anything metal you can think of, including: custom signs, furniture, panels, enclosures, industrial components, jewelry & art.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5qoiouFq50&feature=youtu.be}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPpDD0U3Hps}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Engrave - Removes a thin layer of material from the surface of the metal along an established line. This has great accuracy but only produces a thin line.
* Raster - Very similar to an engrave but a raster is used to engrave a large area by passing over the area repeatedly. This works great for things like lettering and designs, but it does lose a little accuracy around the edges.
* FabCreator - The software used to set up a cut from a DXF.

==== User Manual ====

[[Media:FabLight Operator Manual v4.3.pdf|FabLight Metal Laser Cutter User Manual]]

[[Media:FabCreator Manual 2.2.0.XX.pdf|FabCreator Manual]]

[[Media:3D Fab Plugin Manual v2.1.pdf|3D Fab SolidWorks Plugin Manual]]

==Training==
====Operation====

The Fablight is a simple machine to use for cutting flat stock. A part is saved as a DXF file and then imported to FabCreater where features can be set to cut, engrave, raster, or just be reference geometry. In FabCreator, the material properties are set and tabs are added - so that the material doesn't fall to the bottom of the machine. Once the part is set up correctly it is saved to a USB drive to be transferred to the machine. Most of the interactions with the machine happen through the touchscreen which makes previewing and cutting the job a simple task. Cutting tube stock is more intricate. The Fablight Solidworks Plugin is used to make a 2D DXF out of the 3D Solidworks model by essentially unwrapping the tube until it is one flat piece. This DXF is then wrapped back up into a 3D part in FabCreater before being sent to the machine. Only use the Fablight Solidworks Plugin when cutting or engraving tube stock. When cutting tube stock you will want to cut as close to the chuck as possible to avoid waste.

====Demonstration====

For the demonstration, you are required to engrave your own design on flat stock. This design should include a cut, engrave and raster. If no design is available use a George Fox logo.

====General Procedure====
'''For Flat Stock:'''

Setting up the file:
# Export the desired part as a DXF (a DWG will also work). It does not matter what software was used to create it as long as it can be exported as a DXF.
# Open the FabCreater software.
# Import the DXF using [File] > [Import] and make sure to select the correct units when prompted.
# Go to the [Edit] tab to select and delete any unwanted lines.
# Alternatively, line types can be adjusted in the [Part] tab to be cut, engraved, a raster, or a reference line. This can be helpful to see what the entire part looks like if when you are cutting a smaller piece for it.[[File:FabCreator.png|none|thumb|627x627px]]
# Go to the [Properties] tab and select the correct material properties such as material type, thickness, and stock type.
# While in the [Properties] tab, select the [Move to Origin] option to properly align the part where the laser will begin cutting. If there are multiple parts, align one with the origin and then orient the rest based on that.
# Hit [Accept].
# If there are any small parts, tabs can be added to prevent them from falling through the rack by going to the [Process] tab and the clicking the [Tabs] button.
# Save the file to a USB drive by going to [Job] > [Make]. Note: Make sure this is not saved in a folder of the USB drive so the laser can find the job.
Setting up the laser cutter:
# Slowly open the nitrogen canister so that the system is not filled to quickly and then adjust the regulator to 150 psi. Do not exceed 150 psi because the pressure in the canister is enough to rupture the hose to the machine.
# Turn on the Fablight by flipping the switch found on the left side of the machine and then turning the key.[[File:Fab light panel.png|none|thumb|556x556px]]
# Once it is on select the machine home feature on the touchscreen to move the laser head to its starting position.
# Open the door on the front of the machine and check that the adjustable chuck is slid all the way to the right so the material tray will not hit it.
# Slide out the material tray so that the cutting material can be loaded.
# Place the cutting material anywhere on the tray and slide the tray back in. Make sure a click is heard to signify that the tray is in the correct position. There are two places where it will click you want to stop at the first one. The second one is at the very back of the machine and is where the tray goes when using the chuck.
# Close the door.
Performing the cut:
# Insert the USB drive on the right side of the panel. [''not to be confused with the "Key Switch key"'']
# Using the touch screen, press [New Job] > your file name > [Select Job]. A preview window will then open up where the model can be checked to make sure everything is correct.
# Hit the green checkmark to exit the preview.
# Hit the green checkmark again to move to the next step.
# Set the origin by moving the x and y slider bars. The laser head will move with the sliders and the exact position can be seen by the red guide laser. The location of the red dot will be the origin used in the FabCreater software and it should be placed where the use of material can be maximized (usually the corner of the material, furthest away from the chuck.).
# Press [Run Job] on the touchscreen.
# Press the [Start] button to the top of the touchscreen to begin the cut.
# Once the cut is completed wait a minute or so to let fumes dissipate and the material to cool.
# Remove the material from the machine using the door on the front.

==Reset the Space==
[[File:Reset The Space HD2.png|left|150px]]
Here is how you can reset the space for the {{PAGENAME}}. Always reset the space!!!
* Turn off the machine.
* Turn off the compressed air.
* Turn off the exhaust switch.
* Ask the technician if you should complete a general cleaning of the machine and check the video linked in the general maintenance section of the Metal Laser Cutter wiki page.

==Cut List==
===Approved Materials===
* Steel
* Stainless steel
* Aluminum

===DO NOT CUT===
* Wood
* Plastics
* Fabrics

(Use the CO2 lasers for these materials.)

If you want to cut a material not listed here, please talk with the Maker Hub staff.

==Certification==

[https://georgefox.instructure.com/courses/1316 Canvas Course]

==Troubleshooting==
* The job runs but machine does not cut. Most likely the dry run process selected. Toggle dry run off.
* The machine does not cut, many sparks visible. The process table is not set correctly or the cutting head or optics are dirty. Ensure correct focal offset, cut speed, cut height, and gas pressure in process table. Check that the nozzle tip is clean, wipe off slag with Scotchbrite.
* Machine loses cut so that there crooked lines and gaps in the part. Again this is because the process table parameters14896 ''[Is this a true statement?]''
* Incorrect or the cutting head/optics are dirty. Verify cut process parameters including cut speed, cut height, and gas pressure. Check nozzle tip is clean, wipe off slag with Scotchbrite.
* Cut does not go all the way through material. Select correct process. Reduce cut speed. Increase assist gas pressure up to 145 PSI. Verify process table is correct. Verify beam centering and focus test. Inspect nozzle tip.
* If your machine has a rotary you may encounter two homing errors. If the touchscreen says, “Idler (the chuck that holds the right side of the tube) not homed. Move idler to home”, open the door and move the idler all the way to the right. There is a sensor that detects when the idler is in its home position. Once the idler is in the home position, close the message and repress HOME THE MACHINE. If you encounter an error message saying that the rotary is locked; simply pull out the red pin, close the message, and repress HOME THE MACHINE.
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Just like any other machine tool, the FabLight must be cleaned regularly for optimal performance. Lack of regular preventive maintenance (PM) will lead to damaged machine components, a reduction in part quality, and machine downtime. Cleaning the entire machine takes on average 10 minutes to complete and is easy to do with a single person. Even if the machine does not appear to be dirty, over time metal particles can build up; for optimum machine performance you must adhere to the recommended PM schedule, even if the machine “does not appear to be dirty.”

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHSUXOYKm5Y}}

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General Cleaning
|Every 1-2 Weeks depending on usage rate
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean Window
|Once a month
|Ace
|
|-
|3
|Lubricate drawer slides
|Quarterly
|Ace
|
|-
|4
|Apply WD-40 to rails
|Quarterly
|Ace
|
|-
|5
|Empty clean out drawer
|Once a month
|Ace
|
|}
# Vacuum out entire machine and wipe down the encoder strips with a paper towel. See [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHSUXOYKm5Y&feature=youtu.be this video] for details. Also wipe off the cutting head with a paper towel.
# Wipe down the inside of the window with a microfiber cloth, not the vacuum or a paper towel.
# Apply grease to the drawer slides to keep them operating smoothly.
# Spray the rails with WD-40 to lubricate and keep them clean.
# Open the drawer, remove any large parts by hand, and then vacuum out the rest.

Tools

2023-05-17T18:16:47Z

Jsides22:

[[Tools]] (both hand tools and power tools) are stored at various locations in the Maker Hub. Tools do not require certified training before use, but users are expected to familiarize themselves with tool operation by viewing the appropriate Wiki page. Furthermore, as part of the '''Safety First'' commandment, users are encouraged to seek help and instruction for any tool that they feel uncomfortable using. Volunteers will be available to serve these needs.

This page contains a list of the tools available in the Maker Hub. Please see the [[Tool Room]] page for more information.

{{#ask:
[[Is tool::True]]
|?Has name=Tool Name
|?Has imagedesc=Image
|?Has category=Category
|?Has description=Description
|mainlabel=-
|format=broadtable
|sort=Has category
|headers=plain
|limit=250
}}
{{ToolInfo
|A.C. Clampmeter
|This instrument can be clamped over a wire to measure the current flowing through it.
|[[File:Clampmeter.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Cordless Drill
|You can use a cordless drill driver to drill or bore holes, drive screws, assemble furniture, and woodworking.
|[[File:Drill.png|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Bubble Level
|A bubble level has many uses including, but not limited to verify plumb and level. Some of the many uses include picture and sign hanging, post installation, machine leveling.
|[[File:Bubble levelBubble level2.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Punch
|This is some sample text. This is also some sample text. I am a big fan of sample text. This is more sample text. This is even more sample text. I am a really big fan of sample text. This is the same sample text. This is more of the same sample text. I am a big fan of this sample text.
|[[File:image_pending.png|center|100px]]
|Hand Tools
}}

{{ToolInfo
|Handheld Multimeter
|An instrument for conducting measurements on a circuit. They can measure DC voltage, AC RMS Voltage, current, resistance, and more. Multimeters are essential tools for testing or troubleshooting a circuit.
|[[File:Multall of them01.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}

{{ToolInfo
|Soldering Iron
|A hand tool which heats metal solder in order to join two components. Soldering is most commonly used to join electrical components in a circuit. There are two soldering kits for use at the electronics station in the center of the Maker Hub, and there are also several available for checkout in the Tool Room. For your safety, please always place the soldering iron in its holder when not in use. Always use a fume extractor to protect yourself from harmful fumes. Soldering kits also come with a tackle box containing useful tools for soldering, such as wire crimpers. Please make sure all contents of this box are returned when you finish using a soldering kit.
|[[File:WELLER soldering iron.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Fume Extractor
|A device which uses a fan to collect and filter harmful fumes. Always use one of these when soldering for your protection.
|[[File:FUMEextractorFE.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Electronic Scale
|Device to measure weight or mass.
|[[File:R0101.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Laser Thermometers
|Handheld device that can display temperature readout on it after scanning portions of an object or area with the built-in laser. They tend to be inaccurate when measuring shiny objects, putting some non-reflective tape on the object can help give a better measurement.
|[[File:LASER THERMOMETERS.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Dremel
|Hand powered tool with different tips, that is mostly used for craft purposes, such as carving, etching and sanding small items.
|[[File:Dremel.jpg|100px|center]]
|Power Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Cordless 1/2" Impact Driver and sockets
|The impact Driver is specially designed for tightening and loosening various hex-head bolts, nuts, and lag screws. It employs both rotational force (torque) and short-burst concussive blows (impacts) to deliver an unparalleled amount of power.
|[[File:Impact.wrench and sockets.jpg|100px|center]]
|Power Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Holesaw Kit
|A holesaw is used in a drill to cut perfectly round holes in a wide variety of materials
|[[File:Hole saw kit.jpg|100px|center]]
|Power Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Heat Gun
|A power tool that emits a stream of hot air, usually at temperatures between 100 °C and 550 °C (200-1000 °F), with some hotter models running around 760 °C (1400 °F), which can be held by hand
|[[File:Heat gun.jpg|100px|center]]
|Power Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Pressure Regulator
|This is for reducing the air pressure of a compressed air bottle.
|[[File:Press Regul.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Type K Thermometer
|A thermocouple for measuring temperatures between -50C and 1300C.
|[[File:Type'k'Thermo.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Digital Tachometer
|This is an instrument that is used to measure revolutions per minute or RPM. This is a non contact device that uses light and a reflector. This device can be used to measure the RPM of a motor shaft.
|[[File:Digital Tachometer.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Helium Balloon Inflator
|This is connected to a helium bottle and allows the user to fill a helium balloon.
|[[File:Ballom inflator.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Bottle Jack
|This is a hydraulic jack and can be used for lifting heavy objects. Never put anything under heavy objects that you wouldn't want crushed.
|[[File:Bottle jack.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Battery Charger
|This is a battery charger for lead acid batteries.
|[[File:Battery charger.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|LED Worklight
|A really bright light for illuminating an area.
|[[File:Led working light.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Portable Vise
|A vice grip for holding things.
|[[File:Vicegrip.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Mirror
|An extendable mirror for viewing hard-to-see places.
|[[File:Mirror.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Rivet Gun
|A tool for driving rivets.
|[[File:Rivet gun.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Battery Terminal Cleaner
|A wire brush designed to remove corrosion and contaminants from the terminals of a car battery.
|[[File:Battery Terminal Cleaner.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Tarp
|A big, blue, crinkly tarp. Include size...
|[[File:RUG.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Robin Boards
|AVR training board used in ENGE320. Coupled with the Atmel 328P Xplained. Shield includes a 7-Segment display, some buttons, a switch, RGB LED's, and a piezo buzzer.
|[[File:Robin Boards.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|BTMN Board
|ARM training board used in ENGE320. Coupled with the Arduino Zero. Shield includes an AMOLED display, joystick, DPAD, RGB LED's, accelerometer, SD Card slot, and a piezo buzzer.
|[[File:Robin Boards large.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Basys 3 FPGA Board
|FPGA training board used in ENGE220. Has a bank of switches, buttons, LCD display, 7-Segment display, piezo buzzer, stepper motor driver, and more!
|[[File:Boards long.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Logic Analyzer
|Used to monitor and debug various digital signals and communication busses.
|[[File:Logic Analyzer.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Helping Hands
|An extra set of hands to hold things while soldering.
|[[File:Helping hands.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Analog Discovery 2
|A USB oscilloscope, logic analyzer, and multi-function instrument that allows users to measure, visualize, generate, record, and control mixed-signal circuits of all kinds.
|[[File:Analog Discovery 2.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Digilent Nexys 2
|A powerful digital system design platform built around a Xilinx Spartan-3E FPGA.
|[[File:Digilent Nexys 2.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Digital Logic Probes
|Probes that can be used with...
|[[File:Digital Logic Probes.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Solder Sucker
|For sucking solder.
|[[File:Sucker .jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|PCB Tweezers
|Tweezers for PCBs.
|[[File:PCB Tweezers.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Needle Nose Pliers
|Skinny pliers.
|[[File:Nene.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Crimpers
|For crimping things.
|[[File:Crimpper.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Wire Strippers
|For stripping wire.
|[[File:Wirfe strippers.jpg|100px|center]]

|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Tweezers
|Generic tweezers.
|[[File:Tweeeezers.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Flux
|For soldering.
|[[File:Fluxxx.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Solder Station Sponges
|For cleaning the soldering iron tip.
|[[File:Spongee.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Eye Loupes
|Small magnifying glasses.
|[[File:Eye.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Tip Tinner
|Lead-free tip tinner for soldering.
|[[File:Tip tinner.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Heat Sink Clip
|Heat sink clip for soldering.
|[[File:Heat sink clop tool.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Solder Wicks
|For soldering.
|[[File:Solderwick.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Solder Tips
|Replacement tips for soldering irons.
|[[File:Tips.jpg|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Flux Brush
|For soldering.
|[[File:FLUXX BRUSDHH.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Flux Pen
|For soldering.
|[[File:FLUX PEN.png|100px|center]]
|Electronic Devices
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Pressure Gauges
|For measuring pressure.
|[[File:Pre gage.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Clippers
|Also known as diagonal cutters.
|[[File:Clippers.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}
{{ToolInfo
|X-acto Knives and Blades
|Very sharp.
|[[File:Bladesss.jpg|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|GoPro Camera
|For Going Pro. Takes Video and Pictures. Can be used with the GoPro Accessories in the GoPro accessory kit.
|[[File:GoProlowres.png|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Fluke Thermal Imager
|A thermal Camera. Very Expensive.
|[[File:ThermalImagerLowrez.png|100px|center]]
|Miscellaneous
}}
{{ToolInfo
|Bolt Cutters
|Powerful cutting tool to cut through thick metal pieces.
|[[File:BoltCutters.jpg|100px|center]]
|Hand Tools
}}

File:BoltCutters.jpg

2023-05-17T18:16:02Z

Jsides22:

BoltCutters image

Tools

2023-05-17T17:56:30Z

Jsides22: