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		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prusa_3D_Printer&amp;diff=5991</id>
		<title>Prusa 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prusa_3D_Printer&amp;diff=5991"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T23:28:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
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__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Description ==&lt;br /&gt;
The Prusa i3 MK3 is a 3D printer that includes a removable heatbed, filament sensor, and other unique features in order to rapidly prototype projects. The Prusa i3 MK3 comes in two different variants, single filament, and multi filament. It employs [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM Printing]]. The Prusa i3 MK3 is a powerful prototyping device that works best with smaller prints, with the print bed being approximately 8&amp;quot; x 8&amp;quot; x 9&amp;quot;. The Prusa has a hard time with more complex geometric shapes, but it excels at printing smaller optimal quality models for testing and trying out products or ideas.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jizyu0nGH18}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== User manuals ====&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-mk3/ Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3_en_3_04.pdf Prusa i3 MK3 Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== '''Terminology''' ====&lt;br /&gt;
* Nozzle/Extruder: The nozzle (or extruder) is the part of a 3D printer which deposits the molten plastic filament onto the 3D printer bed. The extruder can reach 200°-300°C, depending on the filament used, but typically stays around 215°C for regular prints.&lt;br /&gt;
* Heatbed: The heatbed is a 9.83&amp;quot; x 8.3&amp;quot; x 8.3&amp;quot; plate where the filament will be &amp;quot;printed&amp;quot; on. The bed heats up to around 60°C. Heated beds typically prevent the plastic from warping by keeping it warm. Warping is a common issue that happens on 3D printers, where the plastic of the print cools at an uneven rate, leaving the print wavy and not the way you intended.&lt;br /&gt;
* Feeder: The feeder is the part of the 3D printer that &amp;quot;feeds&amp;quot; the filament to the nozzle. Sometimes &amp;quot;feeder&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;extruder&amp;quot; are used synonomously, so it's important when you're teaching someone to differentiate whether or not you're talking about the ''nozzle'' extruder or the ''feeder'' extruder. Feeders are typically composed of stepper motors, gears, and sometimes bolts and pulleys to guide the filament to the hot end.&lt;br /&gt;
* Fan: There are usually two fans on the nozzle of a 3D printer, and they serve the purpose of cooling the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. If the plastic is super hot, we don't want it to move as soon as it is in place on the part we're making, otherwise our part will turn out warped or failed. The fans are put in place to strategically cool the plastic as soon as it comes out of the nozzle. You are able to turn the fan speeds up and down in the slicer software (if that is a provided feature), but you can manually configure it on the printer as well.&lt;br /&gt;
* Stepper Motor: There are two main places where you'll find stepper motors on a 3D printer. There's a motor for each axes, one for the x, y, and z. These motors receive instructions from the gcode to move the certain axes at certain points to create your print. There is also a stepper motor in the extruder setup, pushing and pulling the filament whenever more or less is needed for the current print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Infill: Infill has to do with a 3D print's structural integrity. It can be multiple shapes and patterns (providing different strength optimizations), different sizes, and different thicknesses. Infill ranges anywhere from 0% (hollow) to 100% (solid). It is very unlikely you'll ever want a print to be 100% infill, because it takes an insane amount of filament and a lot of time to complete. Most 3D prints are 15% infill since it is the most optimal choice for cost efficiency and durability. If your concern is cost, a lesser infill density is a good way to go. If strength and mass is important, a higher density (between 30%-50%) is a good estimate. When using a higher infill, always double check to make sure it's a good idea for your part, and that you're using the right machine. Other 3D printers in the prototype lab have the option of a stronger filament than PLA or ABS, so it may be a better idea to print for strength on those rather than the Prusas.&lt;br /&gt;
* Filament: There are many different kinds of filament you can use on the 3D printer, ranging from PLA, to ABS, TPU to Nylon. The most common of these are PLA and ABS; the Prusas are usually set up with PLA. PLA stands for Polylactic Acid, it is the most common desktop 3D printing filament because it is odorless and very hard to warp on its own, therefore not always a need for a heated bed. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene. It's one of the most commercial versions of plastic available (found in legos, packaging, and more)--it's durable, scratch resistant, and tough. Heated beds are a must with ABS filament because it is so temperature sensitive, so it warps very easily. The Prusas use 1.75 mm filament.&lt;br /&gt;
* CAD Modeling and Thingiverse: There are two ways you can 3D print models. You can either design your own with a CAD (computer-aided design) software, or you can find something similar to what you want on websites like Thingiverse. Thingiverse has all sorts of community-contributed designs, which you can download the .stl files for, slice, and print the models. As for modeling your own projects, there are multiple softwares you can use such as SolidWorks, AutoCAD, Autodesk Inventor, FreeCAD, and many more.&lt;br /&gt;
* Slicing: Each 3D printer uses a slicer software, a software where you can import the model file (usually an .stl file) onto a computerized build plate, resize, change up the nozzle and bed temperatures, adjust the infill and precision, and more. The slicer software takes into consideration all your configurations, then &amp;quot;slices&amp;quot; it into a .gcode file, a set of instructions for the x, y, and z dimensions. The 3D printer can read and tell the stepper motors what to do from the set of instructions within the gcode. The slicer software used for the Prusa i3 MK3 is called Prusa Slicer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Training ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Overview ====&lt;br /&gt;
Printing on the Prusa will always start with an STL file that you export from Solidworks or download from the internet. However, the printer cannot interpret a STL file and must be converted to a gcode file which instructs the printer on how to complete the print. The process of creating a gcode is called &amp;quot;slicing&amp;quot; and is done in the Prusa Slicer software. Prusa Slicer allows you to customize any part of the print process and is color coded to distinguish simple settings from expert settings so you can tell which settings can be adjusted without risk of messing things up. For the most part, the preset setting options will work well but feel free to experiment with settings to improve print detail or speed (check out [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kW9SnK4LKc this video] for example). After you have sliced your STL file the rest of the setup is simple. Save the new gcode to the SD card found in the printer, turn on the machine, select &amp;quot;print from SD card&amp;quot; to find your file, and then click to start the print. Make sure to clean the print bed with isopropyl alcohol before the print starts and watch the print for the first five minutes to make sure it doesn't fail. Also, the video below walks through the setup process in detail starting from downloading a stl file which is helpful.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ttg2wEjD784&amp;amp;list=PLP1rv37BojTfJ5TjDXiSNqDnEPnvChsYZ&amp;amp;index=11}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Demonstration ====&lt;br /&gt;
The student will need download, setup, and successfully start a print of their choice, providing it is within reason and follows Prototype Lab guidelines. If possible, they should stay as long as possible in case a print fails, which will be an opportunity to teach them basic troubleshooting of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== General Procedure ====&lt;br /&gt;
Setting up a print:&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you have a model you would like to print (which you can find on either thingiverse or model one yourself), you will be using a software called Prusa Slicer to slice your .stl files into a .gcode file, which the printer will interpret and print your model from.&lt;br /&gt;
# Open Prusa Slicer. When you open Prusa Slicer, it looks like this:[[File:Slicer Home.png|none|thumb|1108x1108px]]At the top, you have your basic toolbar where you can import files and fine tune print settings. The toolbar on the left side of the screen is used for rotating/orienting, moving, scaling, and even cutting the model. The window on the right side of the screen is used to select the printer being used and select preset print settings. You can also choose between simple, advanced, and expert settings in this window. Feel free to select any of these modes. Throughout the software each setting is color coded to match these skill levels to make it easy to tell which settings are simplest to adjust. &lt;br /&gt;
#To import your file, click on &amp;quot;File &amp;gt; Import &amp;gt; Import STL&amp;quot;, and you'll be presented with your file system to choose whatever model you have ready. Click &amp;quot;open&amp;quot; to import the file.&lt;br /&gt;
#Once the model is imported you will need to orient it correctly. The toolbar on the left has two options for doing this. One is the basic rotate tool which allows you to rotate a specific number of degrees around any axis. You can drag the model with this tool as well but this is not advised because you may not line the face up with the print bed properly which may result in print errors. If you do not know the rotation angle you need use the second option, place on face, to rotate one face of your model to match the print bed. The correct orientation will change based on your model so make sure to check out the short video below for some tips.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGhgaypou6E&amp;amp;list=PLTCCNNvHC8PDR_jQy609toqq8EAfhiOOL&amp;amp;index=26}}&lt;br /&gt;
#Set the rest of the object setting using the left toolbar.&lt;br /&gt;
#* In the Position settings, you can adjust where on the printer bed you would like your print to start. Due to automatic bed leveling, the center of the printer bed is always the best place to put your model. If you are printing multiple parts, then arrange everything from the center outwards. You can click and drag your model around and see the change in the X and Y coordinates, and if you need it to be super precise, you can use the keyboard to change the values in the Position settings.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Scale is important, it determines how large you want your print to be. If you modeled your print to specific dimensions, Prusa Slicer will import it with the correct dimensions, and you can skip this section. If it is too large, you can scale the model down to 70%-90% and see how that affects the size, and vice versa, changing the scale to 110%-130% if need be.&lt;br /&gt;
#Set the correct printer settings.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Below is the settings you'll most likely be working with, such as the material, quality, infill, support, and sizing.[[File:Basic Settings.png|none|thumb]]On the Prusa's, we currently only use PLA, so we'll always be keeping the Material option as Prusa PLA.&lt;br /&gt;
#* The quality of the print has to do with the size of each individual layer. The finer the quality, the longer the time is to print your model. Almost always you'll want your print to be Optimal quality (0.15mm), since about all prints turn out good with that setting, but you can choose from several other presets as well. A smaller layer height will allow for more definition in the vertical plane but will take longer to print. Each layer height has a preset for fast and quality that you can choose from based on your print needs. If you are feeling adventurous then the pint and printer settings can be individually adjusted instead of using a preset. &lt;br /&gt;
#* Next, you'll change the infill. If you don't know how much infill you need, check out the definition of infill above or talk to the supervisor for help. This option will almost always stay at 15% infill.&lt;br /&gt;
#* Now we come to support! Support is extra material printed around your model to support tougher geometric angles and overhangs that the printer can't get to on its own. It is easily torn off at the end of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
#* The Brim option is for bed adhesion. You will typically want this option, since it helps prevent the warping of the part you are printing. A brim is most important for prints that have a small surface area that is in contact with the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
# When all those settings are complete, you can click &amp;quot;Slice now&amp;quot; in the bottom right corner, and Slicer will give you a time and filament estimate for your print. If they seem reasonable, you can save the newly &amp;quot;sliced&amp;quot; .gcode file to the SD card that will go into the printer! Do this by clicking  &amp;quot;Export G code.&amp;quot; You can always go back and adjust the settings to fit your time and/or filament needs before saving the file. &lt;br /&gt;
Starting a Print: &lt;br /&gt;
# Thoroughly clean the build plate with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel. &lt;br /&gt;
# Once you have the gcode file on the SD card, put the SD card into the Prusa (on the left side of the orange menu), and turn the printer on using the power switch on the left side of the printer. The printer will read the SD card and initialize itself, then you can start. &lt;br /&gt;
# In the menu, there is an option you want called &amp;quot;Print from SD Card&amp;quot; that will take you to a list of all the .gcode files on the SD card. Select this by rotating the knob until this option is highlighted and then press down on the knob. &lt;br /&gt;
# Search until you find your file, and then select it.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure there is enough filament on the printer for your print, or it will fail midway! &lt;br /&gt;
# Naturally, the printer will set itself up for PLA settings, which is approximately 215°C for the extruder, and 60°C for the heated bed. This will take a few minutes. Often filament will start oozing out of the nozzle once it is fully heated, but don't worry, the printer will clean off the filament after calibration. If these temperatures are not correct, click to open a menu and the scroll to the &amp;quot;Tune&amp;quot; option. From there the temperatures can be adjusted.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure that there are no filament strings attached to the nozzle as the print is starting. &lt;br /&gt;
# Watch the print for at least 5 minutes to make sure it adheres properly and then every 5 minutes for the next 20 minutes. &lt;br /&gt;
Finishing a Print:&lt;br /&gt;
# When the print completes successfully, the Prusa will delightfully present the print by moving the print bed forward, and the extruder will go back to the homing location. On the menu screen it will display how long the last print took, and the other normal settings like the temperature of the print bed and nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
# To get the print off of the bed, take the magnetic steel bed off and bend it just slightly to pop the brim of the print off of the bed. From there you can take the print off carefully by hand.&lt;br /&gt;
# If the print was successful, congratulations! If not, time to diagnose the problem and try again.&lt;br /&gt;
# Put the magnetic bed back onto the Prusa, and if there are no more prints needing to be done, power it off.&lt;br /&gt;
Loading New Filament:&lt;br /&gt;
# When the printer runs out of filament, typically you'll want to find a shop aid to help you change the filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# All you need to do is go to the menu, select the &amp;quot;Unload Filament&amp;quot; option, and the printer should start heating up.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once it heats up, it'll unload the filament and you can pull it out of the extruder.&lt;br /&gt;
# As for loading new filament, find the option in the menu labelled &amp;quot;Autoload Filament&amp;quot;, and the printer will walk you through the instructions for loading the new spool of filament.&lt;br /&gt;
Pausing or Stopping a Print:&lt;br /&gt;
# To pause a print in the middle of the job, press the knob and it'll pull up a printing menu. There are two options near the bottom, &amp;quot;Stop Print&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Pause Print&amp;quot;. If the print is failing, you definitely want to stop it. If you need to change filament or think you can save the print before it fails anymore, you can pause the print.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful what you touch; the nozzle and filament leaving it are over 200°C which will easily cause burns. Although only 60°C, the build plate should not be touched during printing.&lt;br /&gt;
* Keep hands away from the travel rods because they will pinch fingers with ease.&lt;br /&gt;
* Support material can be sharp so be careful when removing it. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31283 Prusa FoxTALE Course]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Troubleshooting ==&lt;br /&gt;
Here are some ways your print can fail in the beginning, and how to troubleshoot it:&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Brim is pulled off of bed and dragged around by the nozzle:''' If it's just starting the brim of the print and having trouble adhering to the bed, you can pull off the first few rounds of the brim and let the print continue. Sometimes the outer part of the brim has more trouble adhering than the inner parts. If it continues to fail, stop the print. Make sure you have the best orientation possible for your part, make sure the nozzle of the printer is clean, and try starting the print again. If it continues to fail, find a supervisor to help you.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Parts of the print detach mid-print:''' Stop the print. Often if parts of the print detach from the model it is due to failure to adhere to support. Ask a supervisor if the geometry of your part is too complex for the Prusas. If not, adjust the sizing, change around some support settings, and try the print again. If it continues to fail, try to break the part into smaller prints and assemble them when done.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Extruded filament is too thin/not adhering to layers OR Filament will not come out of nozzle:''' When the filament is too thin or not coming out, there is often a blockage or small piece of filament in the extruder. Ask a supervisor for help.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Print will not adhere to bed:''' If your 3D print will not adhere to the bed after lots of tries, the last resort can be some glue stick. For trickier prints with small bases, sometimes this is the trick. Always make sure you try the brim option before using the glue stick on the printer. When the print is finished, clean off the printer bed.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''Support fails:''' If the support gets really stringy as the print continues and in turn fails the print, see if you can have a supervisor help you change the density of the support. Double check that the printer is not shaking too much as you print your model. If you still don't know what to do after your print fails, ask a supervisor.&lt;br /&gt;
* '''First layer of print warps:''' If the first layer of your print warps and affects the rest of your print, lower the bed temperature, and start the print again. If it continues to warp, try adding some adhesive on the printer bed. &lt;br /&gt;
If your issue or error is not found here, ask the supervisor for help, or you can research on this website: https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/#section-fdm-3d-printing-problems-my-print-failed&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Failed Calibration:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the printer fails while calibrating, there will be an error message that suggests you clean the nozzle off and retry the print. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Crash Detected:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When the nozzle hits something it's not used to, such as an obstruction in the print, the print bed, or something else that stops the extruder from moving, the printer will error and say it crashed. It will ask you to clean off any excess filament and stuff that gets in the way of the extruder. If it continues to fail because of a crash, ask a supervisor for help.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Maintenance ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Specific Maintenance Tasks ====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Wiping Down Buildplate&lt;br /&gt;
|Before every new print&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Cleaning of Nozzle&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean and lubricate travel rods&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed &lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
# Grab a paper towel from the sink and the isopropyl alcohol from next to the Formlabs printer. Use these to wipe down the build plate and make sure you do not touch the plate after doing this because that will get oils on it. &lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the print head in the z axis until the nozzle is easily accessible. Use tweezers, paper towels, isopropyl alcohol, or any other substances to remove filament from the nozzle. If the nozzle is clogged, use a wrench to remove it and clean out any filament inside. A heat gun may be helpful for this. &lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe down the smooth travel rods with a paper towel and then re-lubricate them. Clean the threaded rods with a brush and then re-lubricate them.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=F370_3D_Printer&amp;diff=5990</id>
		<title>F370 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=F370_3D_Printer&amp;diff=5990"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T23:10:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
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[[File:F370 3D printer.png|left|100x100px|frameless]]&lt;br /&gt;
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Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
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Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The F370 is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] (fused deposit modeling) printer made by Stratasys. It is capable of producing highly accurate parts, whether for prototyping or functional use. The F370 shares the same brand and concept as the [[Dimension 3D Printer|Dimension]] printer, but with subtle differences in operation and maintenance. The F370 boasts the largest build plate in the Prototype lab. Combined with its high accuracy and consistency, the F370 can be left overnight to print multiple parts prepared throughout the day with little worry about print failures.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Stratasys printers utilize dissolving support material that leaves no surface damage from breaking off supports and allows for creative parts that are impossible on other printers. This printer is a great option for highly detailed or complex parts, parts containing holes that require high tolerances, parts that take advantage of the dissolving support material, bulk prints, or overflow from the Prusa printers when they are full. Currently, the Prototype Lab has two F370 printers available for use.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|Touchscreen&lt;br /&gt;
File:...storageDrawer.png|Storage Drawer&lt;br /&gt;
File:...materialBayDrawer.png|Material Bay Drawer&lt;br /&gt;
File:...buildPlate.jpg|Build Plate&lt;br /&gt;
File:...materialSpool.jpg|Material Spool&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/f123 Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/User-Guide/F123%20Series%20User%20Guide_d/ User Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/Operation-Guide/F123_Series_Operation%20and%20Maintenance_REV_A.pdf/ Operation and Maintenance Manual]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://help.grabcad.com/ GrabCAD Help Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The basic workflow for using the F370 will be as follows: Preparing the Printer, Preparing Your File for Print, Printing Your Part, Soaking Your Part. First, you prepare the printer so that it is physically ready to print any design you give it. Second, you prepare the part on the software used by the F370. This generates a file that tells the machine how to produce your part. Third, the machine prints your part. Fourth, you soak the part in the bath so that it dissolves all the support material. Then you have a finished part! Each section below will have specific information relevant to each step. You are encouraged to speak with a lab volunteer for advice and guidance for any step of the process. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete knowledge of the F370, students will bring in a part, prepare it on the machine, print it, and soak it in the support bath.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Preparing the F370&lt;br /&gt;
## Powering on the Printer&lt;br /&gt;
### The F370 can be powered on by pressing the large power button next to the touch screen console on the front of the printer. The printer may take up to 15 minutes to boot up, so do this step first if you plan to print soon.&lt;br /&gt;
## Before you can open your part in GrabCAD, make sure your part is in the '''.'''STL format.&lt;br /&gt;
## Acceptable Prints&lt;br /&gt;
### The maximum part size is 14 x 10 x 14 inches, or 35.56 x 25.4 x 35.56 centimeters, because that is how large the build plate is. Any part that is larger should be shown to a lab volunteer to discuss options.&lt;br /&gt;
### Generally, a part will be fit for the F370 if it is highly detailed and/or has holes that require fairly high tolerances. If it is a small, detailed part, a Form 2 printer should suffice. If the part is quick and simple, a Prusa will likely suffice.&lt;br /&gt;
### If your part is designed to take advantage of the dissolving support material the Stratasys machines use, then verify with a lab volunteer that it will be okay to print.&lt;br /&gt;
### Even if you are certain your part belongs on the F370, double check with a lab volunteer before you add it to the pack. Their goal is to help you, but the Prototype Lab would like to avoid excessively expensive and/or unnecessary prints.&lt;br /&gt;
# Preparing the file: GrabCAD&lt;br /&gt;
## GrabCAD Print is the software shared by both F370s. It allows one to easily orient and view the part that needs to be printed. Both printers are web based, which allows one to start the print from the one of the lab's computers. '''Give yourself a few days before your project is due to print on either F370.''' Prints will generally be started when a tray is full or by a lab volunteer at the end of a day. It is unlikely your print will be started just because you waited until the last minute. Be proactive.&lt;br /&gt;
## On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you navigate to the bottom right of the screen and select the menu next to &amp;quot;Print.&amp;quot; Select the printer you want to use; in this case, the F370, which will appear as &amp;quot;f370D30365&amp;quot;. The volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best. &lt;br /&gt;
## To begin preparing your part, click on &amp;quot;Add Models&amp;quot;. This is how you import your file into GrabCAD.  '''Your file must be in .stl format.''' After you have added your part, you can begin preparing it to be printed. Multiple models can be added to the project. Additionally, models can be placed on new trays if the current one runs out of space.[[File:Icons.png|300x300px|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Notice that once a part has been added, an hourglass shaped tower will appear next to your part and scale with the size of your part. This is called a &amp;quot;purge tower&amp;quot; and is where a printer expels excess material upon switching filaments. The purge tower can be moved around on the plate as needed, but cannot be rotated. To move your part on the plate, one can simply click and drag to place it where they want to be printed. Keep in mind that the build plate is to scale, where you place it in the software will be where it prints in reality.&lt;br /&gt;
## To change how one is viewing the plate, hold on the middle mouse button and drag to move the plate, or click and hold the right mouse button to orient the angle the plate is viewed from. There are also icons on top to choose various viewpoints, such as an isometric view, top, left, etc. The icons on the right side of the screen are your print options. All of the options are intuitive, but you are still encouraged to practice manipulating your part so you understand how to use each function. The top three 'icons are different views, starting from a normal Model View, which is roughly how your part will appear when done. &lt;br /&gt;
## Analysis Mode shows faulty areas of a part, and Slice Preview shows model material and support material in the part. Below the Slice Preview Icon is the Model Info, where you can change the units of a selected part if needed.&lt;br /&gt;
## Next is Print Settings, which will be addressed below. The Arrange icon automatically arranges parts to optimize print time. Orient allows one to either let the software orient the part, orient a particular face to a plane, or rotate the model on the XYZ axis. Lastly, the Scale icon gives the option to change the size of the model, either with uniform scaling or on a particular axis. It also gives you the part dimension for each axis.&lt;br /&gt;
## '''You MUST print your part with &amp;quot;Sparse - low density&amp;quot; fill.''' It is expensive to print with Stratasys materials, thus you must consult a lab volunteer if you have a part you feel needs a denser fill. All of standard settings generally do not need to be changed.[[File:Density.png|thumb|none|300x300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
## If you would like more information on specifics, head to the GrabCAD website's [https://help.grabcad.com/article/199-take-a-quick-tour Help Center] for further details and tips, guides, or answers to FAQs. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw This] video contains a basic rundown of GrabCAD. Remember that the lab volunteers are available to answer your questions or provide assistance.&lt;br /&gt;
## ??&lt;br /&gt;
# Printing the part: F370 Touchscreen Operation&lt;br /&gt;
## After your part has been prepared, save the project before continuing. Generally, you will not start the print in the lab itself, since a volunteer will start it when a tray is full or when the day ends, but the workflow is as follows.&lt;br /&gt;
## Select &amp;quot;Print.&amp;quot; The software will prepare the print. For larger packs, this may take several minutes, but usually takes around 30 seconds. If a print is currently ongoing, a bar across the top will read, &amp;quot;Print job queued successfully.&amp;quot; &lt;br /&gt;
## Once your part has been prepared, you can click on on &amp;quot;View Estimates&amp;quot; in the bottom right-hand corner. You will see print time and the amount of model and support material that will be used, in cubic inches (in^3). This is an example of what the tray estimation page looks like. The model and support material used can be input into the Job Log in the lab.[[File:Estimate.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Touchscreen operation on the F370 is highly intuitive. In the image below, the four icons on the left are as follows:&lt;br /&gt;
### Home - Displays the current tray to be printed. If a print is in progress, it will display how much time is left in the print and what is being printed. After a few minutes, a screen saver will switch between displaying which layer is being printed and how much time is left on the current print.&lt;br /&gt;
### Queue - Shows which trays are queued. This can also be viewed in GrabCAD.&lt;br /&gt;
### Materials - Display which material trays contain material, what kind of material is in the F370, and how much material is left. It also displays tip temperature for each respective material.&lt;br /&gt;
### Tools - The last menu has various settings and functions for the printer. One of the icons in this menu will be a sun, which turns the light inside the printer on and off so a print can be viewed. Otherwise, do not mess with or change settings without speaking to a volunteer first.  [[File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|none|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
### To start your print, the image above shows the home screen for the console. If a build plate is in place, the F370 has sufficient materials, and the correct tray is displayed, simply select &amp;quot;Print&amp;quot; and the print will begin.&lt;br /&gt;
# Soaking the part: Dissolvable Support Bath&lt;br /&gt;
## You will need to soak your finished part in the Dissolvable Support Bath in order to remove the support material. Much of it can be removed with pliers, but the remainder needs to be taken care of with the bath.  &lt;br /&gt;
## For more information, see the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] page. This section will contain basic information on what to do with the parts and bath, with basic safety info (gloves, goggles, washing yourself, spill, etc) and &amp;quot;see bath page for more detailed information&amp;quot; on particular topics.  &lt;br /&gt;
# Build Plates&lt;br /&gt;
## F370 build plates are reusable, but when parts are removed from the plate, they often leave layers of support material that are extremely difficult to remove, rendering that part of the plate unusable. If a large pack or part is queued and a new plate is required for a print, go ahead and use a new plate. If a print or pack is smaller and can be printed without interference from unusable parts of a plate, try your best to reuse plates.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
# When you are removing the support material by hand, it can be a little hot and sharp to begin with. Using a tool of some sort to chip it off is a good way to go, because hands bleed and tools don't :) &lt;br /&gt;
# When using the dissolvable support bath, do not use your bare hands to put your parts in! it is Sodium Hydroxide which is toxic! Use goggles, a lab coat, and the huge thick rubber gloves so that you don't get any on you. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31282 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
# If GrabCAD says printer isn't available, then it is not started up. Make sure the printer has been on for a while so it can connect to the network appropriately.&lt;br /&gt;
# It may take a while to start the print if your printer was just recently used. It can take 2 hours to heat up before the printing the job begins. &lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure you have enough material in the material bay to complete the print before you begin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are a few things students and the ace will need to do while performing maintenance tasks or the F370.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Changing Materials&lt;br /&gt;
|When the amount of material gets low &lt;br /&gt;
|Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Removing Material from Build Plate&lt;br /&gt;
|After every print&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
# Changing Materials (Loading Filament Spools)&lt;br /&gt;
## Only volunteers will change out materials. If the F370 runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.&lt;br /&gt;
## There are four material bays within the F370. The top drawer houses the material bays and their material drive controller, which feeds the filament from the bay to the head. '''The material drive controller detects whether material is in the material drive  during the load and unload process and it can also detect errors, when filament is broken, or when the end of the spool is reached via a filament present switch.  [''This sentence needs to be revised by someone that understands the details of the &amp;quot;material drive] [I gave it a try, probably needs an expert to review - CZ]''''' The print will be paused if any of these things occur so the print can be recovered and filament reloaded.&lt;br /&gt;
## Select the '''Materials''' button from the touchscreen.&lt;br /&gt;
## Open the material bay drawer. That is the biggest drawer on the bottom half of the F370.&lt;br /&gt;
## Insert the material spool into its appropriate slot. In the Prototype Lab, the two bays on the left will contain model material, while the bays on the right will contain support material.&lt;br /&gt;
### Pull up on the latch securing the lid and open the lid.&lt;br /&gt;
### Place the material spool into the slot. Make sure the filament tail is facing the back wall of the material bay (printer side).&lt;br /&gt;
### Once the spool is inserted, the Material Status icon will display a solid yellow border with a notification badge above the icon.&lt;br /&gt;
## Open the Materials Details page by tapping on the status icon for the bay you are loading material into.  &lt;br /&gt;
## Slowly turn the spool and feed filament through the filament hole.&lt;br /&gt;
### The filament needs to be advanced approximately 2 inches to reach the filament present switch. When the switch is reached, the Load button will refresh into a selectable state.  &lt;br /&gt;
### When feeding filament, be careful to ensure that filament does not fall over the edge of the spool to avoid cross-winding and/or load errors. &lt;br /&gt;
## Once the filament present switch detects filament, select the Load icon.  &lt;br /&gt;
## Press the Back button within the Material Details page to exit and return to the Materials page.  &lt;br /&gt;
## Material will begin to load and the F370 will take care of the rest, automatically heating both the oven and liquefier  tip to the correct temperatures for the material being used.  &lt;br /&gt;
## Once the tip is within three degrees of the set point temperature the head moves to the purge area and the tip purges a small amount of material.  &lt;br /&gt;
## Once material is loaded, the filament pathway between the Material Status Icon and the corresponding Head Status Icon will be solid blue, the Head Status Icon will turn from gray to blue, and the Material Status Icon will display a solid blue border. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&amp;diff=5989</id>
		<title>Dissolvable Support Bath</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&amp;diff=5989"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T23:03:08Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Basic Bath.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Haake&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=W45, DL 30 Thermo&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Gabi Lorenzo;glorenzo16@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Dissolvable Support Bath is a Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath. It is used in conjunction with both Stratasys  [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] 3D printers. Since these printers use QRS support material, the support can be dissolved in a heated, agitated, diluted solution of Sodium Hydroxide. Sodium Hydroxide can be dangerous when handled incorrectly, therefore there are various safety procedures associated with the use of the Dissolvable Support Bath. Below is a video of an alcohol dissolvable support bath which is not as toxic but functions the same.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gonTiHbIRGg}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== User Manual ====&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.massetrecovery.com/Pictures11/dc30.pdf Instruction Manual] for the Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bath_Controls.jpg|227x227px|thumb| # Bath Controls Panel. |link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bath_Controls.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
# ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Flip the black switch (inside the yellow rectangle) to turn the bath on.&lt;br /&gt;
#Then press the button circled in red to start the heating process.&lt;br /&gt;
#The red knob (circled in cyan) should always be set to about 85 degrees Celsius.&lt;br /&gt;
#Keep the lid shut as often as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.&lt;br /&gt;
#*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.&lt;br /&gt;
''When removing parts:''&lt;br /&gt;
#When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.&lt;br /&gt;
#Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace the basket and lid.&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
*Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
*Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.&lt;br /&gt;
*Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of diluted Sodium Hydroxide.&lt;br /&gt;
*Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.&lt;br /&gt;
*All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.&lt;br /&gt;
*All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.&lt;br /&gt;
*Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.&lt;br /&gt;
*The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This Quiz is a part of the F370 Quiz on Foxtale.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically means the bath is low on water (below 1.5 horizontal holes of the basket inside).&lt;br /&gt;
**Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is only 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.&lt;br /&gt;
**Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
**The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''&lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.&lt;br /&gt;
**This would mean there is a collection of water inside of the grey catch tray underneath the bath.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''&lt;br /&gt;
**Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.&lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.&lt;br /&gt;
**Use the spill kit.&lt;br /&gt;
***Follow instructions inside the kit.&lt;br /&gt;
***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
!Last Done&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Wipe down the machine &lt;br /&gt;
|As neeeded &lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Change the Bath Solution&lt;br /&gt;
|When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|1/23/20&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles&lt;br /&gt;
|If there is only one full bottle remaining&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Wear safety attire during the entire process.&lt;br /&gt;
*Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.&lt;br /&gt;
*Unscrew the top of drain spout (make sure the drain spout is completely pushed in before unscrewing).&lt;br /&gt;
*Swivel the drain spout to face down.&lt;br /&gt;
*Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pull the drain spout out so that the fluid begins to drain.&lt;br /&gt;
*Completely drain all of the fluid.&lt;br /&gt;
*''Clean the inside of the tank'':&lt;br /&gt;
**Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.&lt;br /&gt;
**Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.&lt;br /&gt;
**Replace the basket.&lt;br /&gt;
*Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.&lt;br /&gt;
*Take a pre-filled bottle of Sodium Hydroxide (located in the thin cabinet underneath the counter the bath sits on) and sprinkle some into the heated water.&lt;br /&gt;
*Allow the sprinkled amount to dissolve and repeat until all of the Sodium Hydroxide in the bottle has been dissolved in the bath.&lt;br /&gt;
*Refill the Sodium Hydroxide bottle if there is only one filled bottle left.&lt;br /&gt;
3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.&lt;br /&gt;
*There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&amp;diff=5988</id>
		<title>Dissolvable Support Bath</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&amp;diff=5988"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T23:02:47Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Basic Bath.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Haake&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=W45, DL 30 Thermo&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Gabi Lorenzo, Liam Rudd;glorenzo16@georgefox.edu,lrudd17@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Dissolvable Support Bath is a Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath. It is used in conjunction with both Stratasys  [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] 3D printers. Since these printers use QRS support material, the support can be dissolved in a heated, agitated, diluted solution of Sodium Hydroxide. Sodium Hydroxide can be dangerous when handled incorrectly, therefore there are various safety procedures associated with the use of the Dissolvable Support Bath. Below is a video of an alcohol dissolvable support bath which is not as toxic but functions the same.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gonTiHbIRGg}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== User Manual ====&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.massetrecovery.com/Pictures11/dc30.pdf Instruction Manual] for the Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bath_Controls.jpg|227x227px|thumb| # Bath Controls Panel. |link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bath_Controls.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
# ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Flip the black switch (inside the yellow rectangle) to turn the bath on.&lt;br /&gt;
#Then press the button circled in red to start the heating process.&lt;br /&gt;
#The red knob (circled in cyan) should always be set to about 85 degrees Celsius.&lt;br /&gt;
#Keep the lid shut as often as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.&lt;br /&gt;
#*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.&lt;br /&gt;
''When removing parts:''&lt;br /&gt;
#When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.&lt;br /&gt;
#Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace the basket and lid.&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
*Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
*Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.&lt;br /&gt;
*Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of diluted Sodium Hydroxide.&lt;br /&gt;
*Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.&lt;br /&gt;
*All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.&lt;br /&gt;
*All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.&lt;br /&gt;
*Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.&lt;br /&gt;
*The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This Quiz is a part of the F370 Quiz on Foxtale.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically means the bath is low on water (below 1.5 horizontal holes of the basket inside).&lt;br /&gt;
**Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is only 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.&lt;br /&gt;
**Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
**The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''&lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.&lt;br /&gt;
**This would mean there is a collection of water inside of the grey catch tray underneath the bath.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''&lt;br /&gt;
**Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.&lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.&lt;br /&gt;
**Use the spill kit.&lt;br /&gt;
***Follow instructions inside the kit.&lt;br /&gt;
***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
!Last Done&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Wipe down the machine &lt;br /&gt;
|As neeeded &lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Change the Bath Solution&lt;br /&gt;
|When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|1/23/20&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles&lt;br /&gt;
|If there is only one full bottle remaining&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Wear safety attire during the entire process.&lt;br /&gt;
*Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.&lt;br /&gt;
*Unscrew the top of drain spout (make sure the drain spout is completely pushed in before unscrewing).&lt;br /&gt;
*Swivel the drain spout to face down.&lt;br /&gt;
*Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pull the drain spout out so that the fluid begins to drain.&lt;br /&gt;
*Completely drain all of the fluid.&lt;br /&gt;
*''Clean the inside of the tank'':&lt;br /&gt;
**Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.&lt;br /&gt;
**Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.&lt;br /&gt;
**Replace the basket.&lt;br /&gt;
*Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.&lt;br /&gt;
*Take a pre-filled bottle of Sodium Hydroxide (located in the thin cabinet underneath the counter the bath sits on) and sprinkle some into the heated water.&lt;br /&gt;
*Allow the sprinkled amount to dissolve and repeat until all of the Sodium Hydroxide in the bottle has been dissolved in the bath.&lt;br /&gt;
*Refill the Sodium Hydroxide bottle if there is only one filled bottle left.&lt;br /&gt;
3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.&lt;br /&gt;
*There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&amp;diff=5987</id>
		<title>Dissolvable Support Bath</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&amp;diff=5987"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T23:01:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Basic Bath.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Haake&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=W45, DL 30 Thermo&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Gabi Lorenzo, Liam Rudd;glorenzo16@georgefox.edu, lrudd17@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Dissolvable Support Bath is a Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath. It is used in conjunction with both Stratasys  [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] 3D printers. Since these printers use QRS support material, the support can be dissolved in a heated, agitated, diluted solution of Sodium Hydroxide. Sodium Hydroxide can be dangerous when handled incorrectly, therefore there are various safety procedures associated with the use of the Dissolvable Support Bath. Below is a video of an alcohol dissolvable support bath which is not as toxic but functions the same.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gonTiHbIRGg}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== User Manual ====&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.massetrecovery.com/Pictures11/dc30.pdf Instruction Manual] for the Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bath_Controls.jpg|227x227px|thumb| # Bath Controls Panel. |link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bath_Controls.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
# ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Flip the black switch (inside the yellow rectangle) to turn the bath on.&lt;br /&gt;
#Then press the button circled in red to start the heating process.&lt;br /&gt;
#The red knob (circled in cyan) should always be set to about 85 degrees Celsius.&lt;br /&gt;
#Keep the lid shut as often as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.&lt;br /&gt;
#*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.&lt;br /&gt;
''When removing parts:''&lt;br /&gt;
#When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.&lt;br /&gt;
#Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace the basket and lid.&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
*Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
*Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.&lt;br /&gt;
*Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of diluted Sodium Hydroxide.&lt;br /&gt;
*Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.&lt;br /&gt;
*All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.&lt;br /&gt;
*All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.&lt;br /&gt;
*Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.&lt;br /&gt;
*The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This Quiz is a part of the F370 Quiz on Foxtale.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically means the bath is low on water (below 1.5 horizontal holes of the basket inside).&lt;br /&gt;
**Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is only 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.&lt;br /&gt;
**Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
**The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''&lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.&lt;br /&gt;
**This would mean there is a collection of water inside of the grey catch tray underneath the bath.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''&lt;br /&gt;
**Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.&lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.&lt;br /&gt;
**Use the spill kit.&lt;br /&gt;
***Follow instructions inside the kit.&lt;br /&gt;
***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
!Last Done&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Wipe down the machine &lt;br /&gt;
|As neeeded &lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Change the Bath Solution&lt;br /&gt;
|When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|1/23/20&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles&lt;br /&gt;
|If there is only one full bottle remaining&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Wear safety attire during the entire process.&lt;br /&gt;
*Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.&lt;br /&gt;
*Unscrew the top of drain spout (make sure the drain spout is completely pushed in before unscrewing).&lt;br /&gt;
*Swivel the drain spout to face down.&lt;br /&gt;
*Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pull the drain spout out so that the fluid begins to drain.&lt;br /&gt;
*Completely drain all of the fluid.&lt;br /&gt;
*''Clean the inside of the tank'':&lt;br /&gt;
**Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.&lt;br /&gt;
**Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.&lt;br /&gt;
**Replace the basket.&lt;br /&gt;
*Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.&lt;br /&gt;
*Take a pre-filled bottle of Sodium Hydroxide (located in the thin cabinet underneath the counter the bath sits on) and sprinkle some into the heated water.&lt;br /&gt;
*Allow the sprinkled amount to dissolve and repeat until all of the Sodium Hydroxide in the bottle has been dissolved in the bath.&lt;br /&gt;
*Refill the Sodium Hydroxide bottle if there is only one filled bottle left.&lt;br /&gt;
3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.&lt;br /&gt;
*There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5986</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5986"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:59:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard, Emily Erickson; dhoward16@georgefox.edu, eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
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=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log'''. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. To record your print in the job log, go to the [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16fEdNcuvR_GSNV2Emy1P7SpJdetXU7ts9uQy-Ok7dRk/edit?usp=sharing Job Log spreadsheet] and fill out the required fields. A good time to fill it out is right after you have finished setting up a print.  &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
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There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
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== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5985</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5985"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:59:07Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard, Emily Erickson;dhoward16@georgefox.edu,eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log'''. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. To record your print in the job log, go to the [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16fEdNcuvR_GSNV2Emy1P7SpJdetXU7ts9uQy-Ok7dRk/edit?usp=sharing Job Log spreadsheet] and fill out the required fields. A good time to fill it out is right after you have finished setting up a print.  &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5984</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5984"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:58:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard,;dhoward16@georgefox.edu,eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log'''. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. To record your print in the job log, go to the [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16fEdNcuvR_GSNV2Emy1P7SpJdetXU7ts9uQy-Ok7dRk/edit?usp=sharing Job Log spreadsheet] and fill out the required fields. A good time to fill it out is right after you have finished setting up a print.  &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5983</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5983"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:58:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard, Emily Erickson;dhoward16@georgefox.edu,eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log'''. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. To record your print in the job log, go to the [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16fEdNcuvR_GSNV2Emy1P7SpJdetXU7ts9uQy-Ok7dRk/edit?usp=sharing Job Log spreadsheet] and fill out the required fields. A good time to fill it out is right after you have finished setting up a print.  &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5982</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5982"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:52:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard, Emily Erickson; dhoward16@georgefox.edu, eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log'''. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. To record your print in the job log, go to the [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/16fEdNcuvR_GSNV2Emy1P7SpJdetXU7ts9uQy-Ok7dRk/edit?usp=sharing Job Log spreadsheet] and fill out the required fields. A good time to fill it out is right after you have finished setting up a print.  &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5981</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5981"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:47:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard, Emily Erickson; dhoward16@georgefox.edu, eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log''' which every Prototype Lab mentor can access. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5980</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5980"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:44:43Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard, Emily Erickson; dhoward16@georgefox.edu, eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log''' which every Prototype Lab mentor can access. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5979</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5979"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:44:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard, Emily Erickson; dhoward16@georgefox.edu, eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ('''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}''').  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log''' which every Prototype Lab mentor can access. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5978</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5978"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:44:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard, Emily Erickson; dhoward16@georgefox.edu, eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log''' which every Prototype Lab mentor can access. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5977</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5977"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:43:20Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard, Emily Erickson; dhoward16@georgefox.edu, eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log''' which every Prototype Lab mentor can access. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5976</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5976"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:42:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard, Emily Erickson; dhoward16@georgefox.edu, eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}) and '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log''' which every Prototype Lab mentor can access. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
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}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5975</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5975"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:42:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard; dhoward16@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Emily Erickson; eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}) and '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log''' which every Prototype Lab mentor can access. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5974</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5974"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:41:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard; dhoward16@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace = Emily Erickson; eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}) and '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log''' which every Prototype Lab mentor can access. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5973</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5973"/>
		<updated>2020-02-28T22:40:57Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard; dhoward16@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace2 = Emily Erickson; eerickson18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}) and '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace2.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace2.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where it belongs. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After you have started your project on a machine, make sure to clear the project from the program on the Prototype Lab computer. If you have a part you want to reuse, place the part inside the Prototype Lab Part Storage Folder on the computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Clear the computer of any files or images left over after completing your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log''' which every Prototype Lab mentor can access. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=gallery&lt;br /&gt;
 |imageproperty=Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&amp;diff=5966</id>
		<title>Dissolvable Support Bath</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dissolvable_Support_Bath&amp;diff=5966"/>
		<updated>2020-02-11T20:09:04Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Basic Bath.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Haake&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=W45, DL 30 Thermo&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Gabi Lorenzo;glorenzo16@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Dissolvable Support Bath is a Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath. It is used in conjunction with both Stratasys  [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] 3D printers. Since these printers use QRS support material, the support can be dissolved in a heated, agitated, diluted solution of Sodium Hydroxide. Sodium Hydroxide can be dangerous when handled incorrectly, therefore there are various safety procedures associated with the use of the Dissolvable Support Bath. Below is a video of an alcohol dissolvable support bath which is not as toxic but functions the same.&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gonTiHbIRGg}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== User Manual ====&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.massetrecovery.com/Pictures11/dc30.pdf Instruction Manual] for the Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Bath_Controls.jpg|227x227px|thumb| # Bath Controls Panel. |link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bath_Controls.jpg]]&lt;br /&gt;
# ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
#Flip the black switch (inside the yellow rectangle) to turn the bath on.&lt;br /&gt;
#Then press the button circled in red to start the heating process.&lt;br /&gt;
#The red knob (circled in cyan) should always be set to about 85 degrees Celsius.&lt;br /&gt;
#Keep the lid shut as often as possible.&lt;br /&gt;
#Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.&lt;br /&gt;
#*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.&lt;br /&gt;
''When removing parts:''&lt;br /&gt;
#When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.&lt;br /&gt;
#Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.&lt;br /&gt;
#Replace the basket and lid.&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
*Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.&lt;br /&gt;
*Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.&lt;br /&gt;
*Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of diluted Sodium Hydroxide.&lt;br /&gt;
*Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.&lt;br /&gt;
*All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.&lt;br /&gt;
*All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.&lt;br /&gt;
*Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.&lt;br /&gt;
*The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This Quiz is a part of the F370 Quiz on Foxtale.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically means the bath is low on water (below 1.5 horizontal holes of the basket inside).&lt;br /&gt;
**Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is only 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.&lt;br /&gt;
**Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.&lt;br /&gt;
**The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''&lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.&lt;br /&gt;
**This would mean there is a collection of water inside of the grey catch tray underneath the bath.&lt;br /&gt;
*'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''&lt;br /&gt;
**Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.&lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.&lt;br /&gt;
**Use the spill kit.&lt;br /&gt;
***Follow instructions inside the kit.&lt;br /&gt;
***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
!Last Done&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Wipe down the machine &lt;br /&gt;
|As neeeded &lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|N/A&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|Change the Bath Solution&lt;br /&gt;
|When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|1/23/20&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|3&lt;br /&gt;
|Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles&lt;br /&gt;
|If there is only one full bottle remaining&lt;br /&gt;
|Lab Volunteer&lt;br /&gt;
|}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Wear safety attire during the entire process.&lt;br /&gt;
*Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.&lt;br /&gt;
*Unscrew the top of drain spout (make sure the drain spout is completely pushed in before unscrewing).&lt;br /&gt;
*Swivel the drain spout to face down.&lt;br /&gt;
*Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.&lt;br /&gt;
*Pull the drain spout out so that the fluid begins to drain.&lt;br /&gt;
*Completely drain all of the fluid.&lt;br /&gt;
*''Clean the inside of the tank'':&lt;br /&gt;
**Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.&lt;br /&gt;
**Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.&lt;br /&gt;
**Replace the basket.&lt;br /&gt;
*Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.&lt;br /&gt;
*Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.&lt;br /&gt;
*Take a pre-filled bottle of Sodium Hydroxide (located in the thin cabinet underneath the counter the bath sits on) and sprinkle some into the heated water.&lt;br /&gt;
*Allow the sprinkled amount to dissolve and repeat until all of the Sodium Hydroxide in the bottle has been dissolved in the bath.&lt;br /&gt;
*Refill the Sodium Hydroxide bottle if there is only one filled bottle left.&lt;br /&gt;
3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''&lt;br /&gt;
* Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.&lt;br /&gt;
*There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5874</id>
		<title>Speedy 400</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5874"/>
		<updated>2019-11-06T19:34:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: /* Terminology */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is laser cutter equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 400 Laser Engraver&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Trotec&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Speedy 400&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace= Zach Cogswell: zcogswell18@GeorgeFox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Description Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert video media here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== [https://www.troteclaser.com/fileadmin/content/images/Contact_Support/Manuals/Speedy-400-Manual-EN.pdf User Manual] ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foxtale Quiz&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Description here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Essentially the same as [[Speedy 300]]. The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic'''**'''. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''**''' If you know what you are doing and are very careful, small (&amp;lt;10 inches) pieces of 1/4&amp;quot; or 1/8&amp;quot; acrylic allow for sufficient airflow to avoid catching fire. Small pieces of 1/2&amp;quot; acrylic can often work as well, as long as you are careful. If the fumes light fire while cutting, pause the print IMMEDIATELY (the same button as start), or, if needed, stop it entirely (although this will abort the cut and you will not be able to continue). Often pausing allows the fire to go out and the acrylic to cool down, so for small cuts you may be able to continue, carefully, after pausing. If you must cut large sheets of acrylic, remove the paper from the area you are cutting, as close to the size of your cut as possible. Although it is not the paper that is burning, removing it seems to reduce the possibility of fire. Try not to remove any more paper than absolutely necessary, as the paper keeps the acrylic clean and protected from scratches when in the stock pile. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Training ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/Speedy_300#Training Speedy 300 Training]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dimension_3D_Printer&amp;diff=5872</id>
		<title>Dimension 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Dimension_3D_Printer&amp;diff=5872"/>
		<updated>2019-11-06T19:31:48Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= None&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:dimension_printer_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Dimension Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:dimension_printer_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Dimension_printer_image.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Dimension 1200 SST Printer&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=3D Printers&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Stratasys&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=1200 SST&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Joshua Consenz;jconsenz18@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|300px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Dimension is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] printer made by Stratasys. It is designed with ultimate simplicity in mind. The system enables you to build parts quickly, even if you’ve never used a 3D printer before. Its display panel prompts you to press a few keys to get you modeling quickly.&lt;br /&gt;
The system models with ABS plastic, so modeled parts are strong and durable. ABS also ensures you’ll be able to drill, tap, sand, and paint your creations. With the speed and convenience of Breakaway Support Technology (BST) or Soluble Support Technology (SST), your completed parts are quickly available for review and test. SST allows for parts that are printed on the Dimension to have a more porous or odd geometry, such as overhangs, to be printed with relative ease in comparison with other filament based 3D printers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert video media here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/dimension-1200 Product Home Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Media:Dimension 1200es user guide.pdf|User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''GrabCAD Print'''&lt;br /&gt;
GrabCAD Print is the software that both the Dimension and [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] use, and allows you to easily orient and view the part you want to model. Both printers are web based, which allows you to start the print from the one of the lab's computers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you select the printer you want to use for the part you want to print, the volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best. The menu the the right of the image shows the printer options, make sure you select the correct printer, in this case it is the Dimension. After ensuring you have the software correctly set up, open your file and place it on the build plate, '''''Note: your file has to be in STL format to work with any printing software.''''' The build plate is correctly scaled to the actual build plate, so when sizing up or down you can check the size and placement of the print with the build plate. '''''Note: The following pictures show a single part being printed, during regular lab hours the Dimension is only started when the plate is mostly full to be printed overnight.'''''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Opening File(D).png|center|1000x1000px]] &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After importing all parts resize and orient your parts based on what the final product needs to be accomplished, with no one dimension being larger than 11 inches. Orienting the part is crucial for the print as this will determine how much support material is used as well as the strength of the part. To reduce support material used, orient your part with the most amount of surface are in contact with the plate, and with as few features positioned above cavities in the part. For maximum strength, orient your part so that the layers are parallel with the direction that the anticipated force will be applied, printing the layers perpendicular to the force can cause the layers to peel away from one another if the force is strong enough. If you have a red error in the model, enter analysis mode and click repair as shown in the picture below.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Troubleshooting(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After correctly orienting and sizing the part, click '''Slice Preview''' to see how the Dimension will print your part, total layers, and path of the nozzle. Inspect your part to ensure that it will print correctly, and has a low chance of failing. You can watch an animation of your part being built, layer by layer, and do other analysis before printing. Click '''View Estimates''', found in green near the bottom right corner, to see an approximation of how long the print will take, and the amount of material used. Be sure that this information is recorded in the Job Log. Fix any potential problems that you may have seen, and when you are sure that the part is correctly oriented on the build plate. You may now click Print, locate on the bottom right of the screen. '''''Note: Very rarely will a single part be printed on the Dimension or F370, do not start a print without other parts unless cleared by the lab helper.''''' &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Slice Preview(D).png|center|1000x1000px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Printing'''&lt;br /&gt;
Once the Job has been sent to the Dimension, the control panel will display the most recent job sent to it. Check that the amount of support and model material, indicated on the top most display, is sufficient for the print and when ready, press the button to the right of the display that says start model.[[File:Dimension Control Panel.jpg|center|677x677px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Finished Parts'''&lt;br /&gt;
Once your part is finished, the plate can be removed by moving the tabs downward, pulling the plate forward, and lifting to remove. The following pictures show that process.[[File:Finished Part.jpg|center|700x700px]]   &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Loosening Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sliding Plate Forward.jpg|center|700x700px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Plate is Removed.jpg|center|700x700px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Placing Plate.jpg|center|700x700px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Sliding Plate Foreward.jpg|center|700x700px]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Locking Plate In.jpg|center|700x700px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''Removing Support Material'''&lt;br /&gt;
After removing the plate from the Dimension remove your part from the build plate by using the scraping tool and running the tool along the build plate, as shown in the picture below, and hitting the support material. Continue this process until the part is chipped off of the build plate. Once the part is removed, place in the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] to remove any left over support material.[[File:Chipping at Support Material.jpg|center|754x754px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foxtale Quiz&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Changing Material====&lt;br /&gt;
''*Only volunteers will change out materials. If the Dimension runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.*''&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Dimension has two separate types of material, Model and Support. These two filaments are located on the front of the Dimension, with the Model in the top slot, and the support on the bottom. To change material for either modeling or support, click the button next to the display that says &amp;quot;Material . . .&amp;quot; and then click &amp;quot;Unload&amp;quot; from there. Select which filament you want to exchange, and then press in on that cartridge to remove it. The cartridge will click out, and you can now reel in the material as the Dimension removes it by spinning a wheel on the right hand side.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To load a material is very similar. Select the filament you want to replace, and insert the tip into a hole located in the slot. The Dimension will grab the filament and pull it up to the extruder nozzle. Place the cartridge back into the Dimension, and push it forwards until you hear a click.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Prototyping Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Speedy-400-Manual-EN.pdf&amp;diff=5869</id>
		<title>File:Speedy-400-Manual-EN.pdf</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Speedy-400-Manual-EN.pdf&amp;diff=5869"/>
		<updated>2019-11-06T19:26:12Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5868</id>
		<title>Speedy 400</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5868"/>
		<updated>2019-11-06T19:22:55Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is laser cutter equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 400 Laser Engraver&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Trotec&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Speedy 400&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace= Zach Cogswell: zcogswell18@GeorgeFox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Description Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert video media here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
User Manual&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foxtale Quiz&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Description here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Essentially the same as [[Speedy 300]]. The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic'''**'''. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''**''' If you know what you are doing and are very careful, small (&amp;lt;10 inches) pieces of 1/4&amp;quot; or 1/8&amp;quot; acrylic allow for sufficient airflow to avoid catching fire. Small pieces of 1/2&amp;quot; acrylic can often work as well, as long as you are careful. If the fumes light fire while cutting, pause the print IMMEDIATELY (the same button as start), or, if needed, stop it entirely (although this will abort the cut and you will not be able to continue). Often pausing allows the fire to go out and the acrylic to cool down, so for small cuts you may be able to continue, carefully, after pausing. If you must cut large sheets of acrylic, remove the paper from the area you are cutting, as close to the size of your cut as possible. Although it is not the paper that is burning, removing it seems to reduce the possibility of fire. Try not to remove any more paper than absolutely necessary, as the paper keeps the acrylic clean and protected from scratches when in the stock pile. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Training ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/Speedy_300#Training Speedy 300 Training]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5867</id>
		<title>Speedy 400</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5867"/>
		<updated>2019-11-06T19:22:40Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is laser cutter equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 400 Laser Engraver&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Trotec&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Speedy 400&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace= Zach Cogswell: zcogswell18@GeorgeFox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Description Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert video media here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
User Manual&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foxtale Quiz&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
Description here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Essentially the same as [[Speedy 300]]. The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic'''**'''. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''**''' If you know what you are doing and are very careful, small (&amp;lt;10 inches) pieces of 1/4&amp;quot; or 1/8&amp;quot; acrylic allow for sufficient airflow to avoid catching fire. Small pieces of 1/2&amp;quot; acrylic can often work as well, as long as you are careful. If the fumes light fire while cutting, pause the print IMMEDIATELY (the same button as start), or, if needed, stop it entirely (although this will abort the cut and you will not be able to continue). Often pausing allows the fire to go out and the acrylic to cool down, so for small cuts you may be able to continue, carefully, after pausing. If you must cut large sheets of acrylic, remove the paper from the area you are cutting, as close to the size of your cut as possible. Although it is not the paper that is burning, removing it seems to reduce the possibility of fire. Try not to remove any more paper than absolutely necessary, as the paper keeps the acrylic clean and protected from scratches when in the stock pile. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Training ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/Speedy_300#Training Speedy 300 Training]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5866</id>
		<title>Speedy 400</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5866"/>
		<updated>2019-11-06T19:22:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is laser cutter equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 400 Laser Engraver&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Trotec&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Speedy 400&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace= Zach Cogswell: zcogswell18@GeorgeFox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Description Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert video media here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
User Manual&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foxtale Quiz&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Description here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Essentially the same as [[Speedy 300]]. The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic'''**'''. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''**''' If you know what you are doing and are very careful, small (&amp;lt;10 inches) pieces of 1/4&amp;quot; or 1/8&amp;quot; acrylic allow for sufficient airflow to avoid catching fire. Small pieces of 1/2&amp;quot; acrylic can often work as well, as long as you are careful. If the fumes light fire while cutting, pause the print IMMEDIATELY (the same button as start), or, if needed, stop it entirely (although this will abort the cut and you will not be able to continue). Often pausing allows the fire to go out and the acrylic to cool down, so for small cuts you may be able to continue, carefully, after pausing. If you must cut large sheets of acrylic, remove the paper from the area you are cutting, as close to the size of your cut as possible. Although it is not the paper that is burning, removing it seems to reduce the possibility of fire. Try not to remove any more paper than absolutely necessary, as the paper keeps the acrylic clean and protected from scratches when in the stock pile. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Training ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/Speedy_300#Training Speedy 300 Training]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5865</id>
		<title>Speedy 400</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5865"/>
		<updated>2019-11-06T19:22:04Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is laser cutter equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 400 Laser Engraver&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Trotec&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Speedy 400&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace= Zach Cogswell: zcogswell18@GeorgeFox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Description Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert video media here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
User Manual&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foxtale Quiz&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Description here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Essentially the same as [[Speedy 300]]. The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic'''**'''. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''**''' If you know what you are doing and are very careful, small (&amp;lt;10 inches) pieces of 1/4&amp;quot; or 1/8&amp;quot; acrylic allow for sufficient airflow to avoid catching fire. Small pieces of 1/2&amp;quot; acrylic can often work as well, as long as you are careful. If the fumes light fire while cutting, pause the print IMMEDIATELY (the same button as start), or, if needed, stop it entirely (although this will abort the cut and you will not be able to continue). Often pausing allows the fire to go out and the acrylic to cool down, so for small cuts you may be able to continue, carefully, after pausing. If you must cut large sheets of acrylic, remove the paper from the area you are cutting, as close to the size of your cut as possible. Although it is not the paper that is burning, removing it seems to reduce the possibility of fire. Try not to remove any more paper than absolutely necessary, as the paper keeps the acrylic clean and protected from scratches when in the stock pile. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Training ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/Speedy_300#Training Speedy 300 Training]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5864</id>
		<title>Speedy 400</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5864"/>
		<updated>2019-11-06T19:21:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is laser cutter equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 400 Laser Engraver&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Trotec&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Speedy 400&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace= Zach Cogswell: zcogswell18@GeorgeFox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
{{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Description Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert video media here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
User Manual&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
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Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
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==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foxtale Quiz&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
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Description here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Essentially the same as [[Speedy 300]]. The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic'''**'''. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''**''' If you know what you are doing and are very careful, small (&amp;lt;10 inches) pieces of 1/4&amp;quot; or 1/8&amp;quot; acrylic allow for sufficient airflow to avoid catching fire. Small pieces of 1/2&amp;quot; acrylic can often work as well, as long as you are careful. If the fumes light fire while cutting, pause the print IMMEDIATELY (the same button as start), or, if needed, stop it entirely (although this will abort the cut and you will not be able to continue). Often pausing allows the fire to go out and the acrylic to cool down, so for small cuts you may be able to continue, carefully, after pausing. If you must cut large sheets of acrylic, remove the paper from the area you are cutting, as close to the size of your cut as possible. Although it is not the paper that is burning, removing it seems to reduce the possibility of fire. Try not to remove any more paper than absolutely necessary, as the paper keeps the acrylic clean and protected from scratches when in the stock pile. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Training ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/Speedy_300#Training Speedy 300 Training]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5863</id>
		<title>Speedy 400</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5863"/>
		<updated>2019-11-06T19:18:52Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is laser cutter equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 400 Laser Engraver&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Trotec&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Speedy 400&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is Zach Cogswell ([mailto:ZCogswell18@GeorgeFox.edu ZCogswell18@GeorgeFox.edu]) '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}&lt;br /&gt;
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Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
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Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Description Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert video media here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
User Manual&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
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==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
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==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foxtale Quiz&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
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Description here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Essentially the same as [[Speedy 300]]. The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic'''**'''. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''**''' If you know what you are doing and are very careful, small (&amp;lt;10 inches) pieces of 1/4&amp;quot; or 1/8&amp;quot; acrylic allow for sufficient airflow to avoid catching fire. Small pieces of 1/2&amp;quot; acrylic can often work as well, as long as you are careful. If the fumes light fire while cutting, pause the print IMMEDIATELY (the same button as start), or, if needed, stop it entirely (although this will abort the cut and you will not be able to continue). Often pausing allows the fire to go out and the acrylic to cool down, so for small cuts you may be able to continue, carefully, after pausing. If you must cut large sheets of acrylic, remove the paper from the area you are cutting, as close to the size of your cut as possible. Although it is not the paper that is burning, removing it seems to reduce the possibility of fire. Try not to remove any more paper than absolutely necessary, as the paper keeps the acrylic clean and protected from scratches when in the stock pile. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Training ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/Speedy_300#Training Speedy 300 Training]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5862</id>
		<title>Speedy 400</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Speedy_400&amp;diff=5862"/>
		<updated>2019-11-06T19:18:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is laser cutter equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:image_pending.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 400 Laser Engraver&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Trotec&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Speedy 400&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Description Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert video media here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert terminology here&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
User Manual&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Foxtale Quiz&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|Sample&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Description here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is Zach Cogswell ([mailto:ZCogswell18@GeorgeFox.edu ZCogswell18@GeorgeFox.edu]) '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Documentation ==&lt;br /&gt;
Essentially the same as [[Speedy 300]]. The Speedy 400 uses the same software and general setup as the Speedy 300, however it has a larger bed and a few backend setting differences. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''NOTE:''' Currently, the Speedy 400 should not be used for acrylic'''**'''. There are some issues with settings/airflow that cause acrylic to often catch fire while cutting (which, as you would imagine, is bad) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
'''**''' If you know what you are doing and are very careful, small (&amp;lt;10 inches) pieces of 1/4&amp;quot; or 1/8&amp;quot; acrylic allow for sufficient airflow to avoid catching fire. Small pieces of 1/2&amp;quot; acrylic can often work as well, as long as you are careful. If the fumes light fire while cutting, pause the print IMMEDIATELY (the same button as start), or, if needed, stop it entirely (although this will abort the cut and you will not be able to continue). Often pausing allows the fire to go out and the acrylic to cool down, so for small cuts you may be able to continue, carefully, after pausing. If you must cut large sheets of acrylic, remove the paper from the area you are cutting, as close to the size of your cut as possible. Although it is not the paper that is burning, removing it seems to reduce the possibility of fire. Try not to remove any more paper than absolutely necessary, as the paper keeps the acrylic clean and protected from scratches when in the stock pile. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Training ==&lt;br /&gt;
See [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/Speedy_300#Training Speedy 300 Training]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5655</id>
		<title>Prototype Lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Prototype_Lab&amp;diff=5655"/>
		<updated>2019-10-07T18:09:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
  |Has ace=Devin Howard; dhoward16@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
  |Is facility = True&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab contains a group of 3D printers and a laser cutter (more to come in the near future)! [[File:prototype_lab.jpeg|300px|thumb|The Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The current Aces of the {{PAGENAME}} are '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). &amp;lt;br /&amp;gt;&amp;lt;br /&amp;gt; &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Schedule=&lt;br /&gt;
View the most up-to-date {{PAGENAME}} schedule [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xCN_BBKVIlBQyfPtv62ENxinOEKwJADMFcH0Gyy-ul8/edit?usp=sharing on this Google Sheet.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=Equipment Overview =&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::true]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has make=Company&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has model=Model |+width=10em&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has ace.Has name=Current Ace&lt;br /&gt;
 |format=broadtable&lt;br /&gt;
 |mainlabel=Name&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==[[3 commandments]]==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Safety First ===&lt;br /&gt;
Safety First is the rule we hold highest of the three. Given the delicate nature of our machines, and the different chemicals and materials we use in the Prototype lab, this rule applies to both the safety of you, and the machines.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keeping yourself safe in the Prototype Lab is very easy, as there are very few ways to hurt yourself or the machines. However, proper procedure must be followed at all times.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Basic principles of how to implement Safety First in the Prototype Lab:&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not touch the extruder heads of the 3D printers when they are running. They will be very hot and will burn you. Wait for the machine to cool off.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use gloves when handling chemicals such as Sodium Hydroxide (use the heat protecting gloves when retrieving items from the Sodium Hydroxide bath), Isopropyl or Denatured Alcohol (use Nitrile gloves if handling extensively after removing from the Form Wash), and Lacquer Thinner (use Nitrile gloves when using lacquer thinner to clean residue off of engraved Hydroflasks). You may use gloves whenever you feel necessary, but these are circumstances where gloves are absolutely required.&lt;br /&gt;
* In addition to wearing gloves when around the Sodium Hydroxide, you must also wear safety goggles (preferably the goggles, but if those are unavailable then use safety glasses). A lab coat is highly recommended to be worn as well. All of these items can be found within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you read through the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) binder mounted by the sink so that you are up-to-date on safety procedures regarding the chemicals within the lab.&lt;br /&gt;
* If chemicals ever get on your skin or in your eyes, follow the MSDS. Wash it off or out (there is an eye washing station in front of the Machine Shop about 30 feet feet away). If it is an emergency, do what you need to do to make sure you and those around you are safe.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make sure you know how to use the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is a chemical spill, we do have a spill kit. First, evacuate the lab and get everyone out. This means the lab should be shut down until the spill has been properly dealt with. Second, call Justin Johnson whose information should be posted next to the Emergency Response Guide (bright yellow and by the door leading to the main space). If Justin does not answer, call the Campus Public Safety office (formerly Security Services) whose information will be in the Emergency Response Guide or can be found online. Third, if you feel it is safe to do so, deploy the spill kit (located to the right of the sink).&lt;br /&gt;
* Be aware that laser cut items can have sharp edges that could cut you.&lt;br /&gt;
* Be careful when trying to remove support material by hand from a print off of the Dimension. When the support material breaks, it leaves sharp edges and shatters extremely sharp shards that will cut you if you are not careful.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Reset the Space ===&lt;br /&gt;
The Prototype Lab has a specific organization to it, even though sometimes it looks like chaos. Put whatever you use back where you found it. There is a place for everything and everything has a place. This rule applies to everything in the space. If you move a chair, put it back. If you use a tool, put it back. If you use a pen, put it back. Do not leave your projects in the Prototype Lab, take them with you. Do not leave random note sheets that pertain to nothing out. Throw away your trash and recycling. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
We have allowed food and drink in the space. Resetting the Space means that you don’t leave wrappers, or trays, or anything that wasn’t there when you came in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are employed in the space, this still applies to you. Do not take tools from the Hub and then store them in the Lab. If we need more tools, speak with Ben and Gabi and they can evaluate the situation and, if necessary, they will get more tools.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Now, we understand that sometimes you need to leave things out. Maybe you are in the middle of a large print and you need something to run overnight. In cases like this, it is okay, but you NEED to '''''leave a note''''' on your system so that others know the situation.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When parts finish on a 3D printer, remove them from the build plate and place them in the completed parts bin so that the owner can pick up their part.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always put any unused materials from the laser cutter back on the storage shelf, and throw away unusable scrap.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sweep when needed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Immediately clean up any spilled Formlabs resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Always leave the space better than you found it.&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Be Professional ===&lt;br /&gt;
This commandment has two sides to it. It covers the idea of acting like professional (which Webster’s defines as “exhibiting a courteous, conscientious, and generally businesslike manner in the workplace”). The term also describes the standards of education and training that prepare members of the profession with the particular knowledge and skills necessary to perform their specific role within that profession. Hopefully, you are learning both of these as part of your education at George Fox University. In the Prototype Lab we expect you to develop as a courteous, conscientious, and skilled craftsman, understanding the tools and equipment in the Maker Hub and how to use them effectively.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Being a professional has some obvious ramifications in terms of behavior. First, be Christlike. Think of others better than yourselves. Share. If you have been printing a lot or using the laser cutter for a prolonged time and someone else is waiting for the machine, let them use the machine for a while. This is being a professional.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are working with a machine, and you don’t know the proper way to do what you are attempting - ASK SOMEONE! Learn! Become a professional. Learn the craft. This is an educational space. You might think it will be quick and you can just get it done “your” way and not learn how to do it correctly. Be a Professional and learn the proper way, and then be available to teach others.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One very important, and likely difficult part of being a professional is to correct others when they are not being professional. It is your responsibility to speak up when you see somebody doing something inappropriate. If you see somebody doing something unsafe, not resetting the space, or being unprofessional, the professional thing to do is to remind them of the three commandments and ask them politely to correct their action. This is OUR space, not any individual's. As a group, we expect everyone in the space to keep the space safe, clean, and operable for everyone. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If someone acts disgracefully unprofessional to you in the Prototype Lab, you are welcome to bring the issue to Ben and Gabi's attention.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General 3D Printing Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
3D printing is the process of joining material together to create a three-dimensional object using computer control. It is a form of additive manufacturing. Objects are created using a 3D model. There are many different types of 3D printing, and the Prototype Lab utilizes two types which are FDM (fused deposit modeling) and SLA (stereolithography). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In the Prototype Lab, objects are most commonly printed from an STL file. This means if you create a part in SolidWorks that you must save the file as a .stl instead of a .sldprt . Once the file is in STL form, it can then be processed by a slicer software. The slicer software converts the 3D model into thin layers and produces a G-code file. G-codes communicate with the chosen 3D printer, giving it directions on how to print the object. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Different 3D printers will run with different slicer programs. Typically a program will allow you to edit various parts of the process. One common consideration will be the layer thickness. This is the resolution at which the printer will print at. Each printer will have its own range of resolution. The thinner the layer thickness (higher resolution), the more detail you will get, but the print will be created more slowly. The thicker the layers (lower resolution), the less detail you will receive, but the object will be printed more quickly. Another consideration is support. For objects with overhangs, holes, etc., support will be needed. This will give the printer a surface to print on so that it can continue to build the print layer by layer. Each printer uses supports differently. Some printers have break away support while other have dissolvable support material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Keep in mind that '''every print should be recorded in the Job Log''' which every Prototype Lab mentor can access. This allows the Lab to track the material usages and success rates of the printers, as well as recording the prices of every print. &lt;br /&gt;
[[File:3Dsupports.png|250px|thumb|right|Example of an object (blue) printed with supports (white)]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are common places of potential failure which you should watch for every print. The following points of failure specifically apply to FDM prints.&lt;br /&gt;
*Adhesion:&lt;br /&gt;
**When the print first starts, it is prudent to ensure that the filament is properly adhering to the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
**Watch the print until the first dozen layers have been printed to make sure it is starting off successfully.&lt;br /&gt;
**The print can start sliding around the plate at anytime, although it is much more likely to fail toward the beginning of the print.&lt;br /&gt;
**A tall and skinny print is much more likely to struggle with adhesion than a short and stout print. Taking time to discern the best orientation for your print is always a good call.&lt;br /&gt;
**Adding a raft (sometimes called a brim) will also help if you print is struggling with staying adhered to the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
*Clogging&lt;br /&gt;
**Sometimes the extruder will clog causing the print to fail.&lt;br /&gt;
**This typically can be seen when a clump of filament balls up at the end of the nozzle. &lt;br /&gt;
**If this occurs, immediately cancel the print and remove the clumped filament. Make sure that the nozzle is still able to extrude filament, if not, you may need to open up the extruder and clean it. Keep working on it until you are able to extrude filament again.&lt;br /&gt;
*Air Extruding&lt;br /&gt;
**This means that the extruder thinks it is extruding filament when it really is not. &lt;br /&gt;
**Immediately cancel the print. Then restart the print. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the printer is still air extruding, cancel the print and unload the filament. You can try reloading and starting the print again. &lt;br /&gt;
**If the problem persists, you will probably need to take the extruder apart and clean it out before attempting any further prints. &lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Printer Types ===&lt;br /&gt;
There are many different types of printers, such as Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM), Stereolithography (SLA), Selective Laser Sintering (SLS), Selective Laser Melting (SLM), Digital Light Processing (DLP), Electronic Beam Melting (EBM), Laminated Object Manufacturing (LOM), Binder Jetting (BJ)... Each printer type employs different materials. The Prototype Lab has FDM and SLA machines.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Information about FDM and SLA printers and which machines these are and what materials they can use which. In each printer's page, one can simply link it to this so they don't have to describe materials, just simply state which ones are used with it. Mostly this is all here so I remember to do it or someone else sees it and wants to do it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;SLA Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;SLA Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:InvertedSLA.png|302x302px|thumb|right|Inverted SLA Process]]&lt;br /&gt;
Stereolithography, SLA, is a part of the manufacturing technology of vat polymerization. This means a light source (laser) is used to cure liquid resin into a hard plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
The Form 2 is the only 3D printer that the Prototype Lab has that is an SLA printer. It utilizes the Upside Down or Inverted orientation.&lt;br /&gt;
The resin tank has a clear bottom with a surface the resin will not stick to. This allows the resin to cure against the bottom of the tank.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform is lowered into the resin until it is hovering above the bottom surface of the tank, as far away as the height of the layer to be constructed.&lt;br /&gt;
The laser is directed through the bottom of the tank and cures a layer of resin onto the build platform. Then, the resin tank slides over and the build platform raises. The wiper will then sweep across the tank to circulate the resin.&lt;br /&gt;
The build platform will lower again, and the process will be repeated until the print is completed.&lt;br /&gt;
Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This de-lamination also causes the Form 2 to be the Prototype Lab's slowest 3D printer.&lt;br /&gt;
Once a part is finished on the Form 2, it must be removed off of the build plate. Try to avoid scraping the build plate when removing parts. Any excess resin must be washed off using the Form Wash, the part must be air dried so that any isopropyl alcohol from the Wash has evaporated, the part should be cured in the Form Cure, and supports should be clipped off. Any remaining support marks can be sanded off if so desired.&lt;br /&gt;
Extra information on SLA Printing can be found [https://formlabs.com/blog/ultimate-guide-to-stereolithography-sla-3d-printing/ here].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &amp;lt;span id=&amp;quot;FDM Printing Anchor&amp;quot;&amp;gt;FDM Printing&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) printers use a thermoplastic filament, which is heated to its melting point, then extruded to create layers which then build an object. There are many different types of FDM printers. Some use a modeling material and a support material, some just use a modeling material which when creating support will use a different style of layering that allows the filament to break off easily, some are able to use multiple filaments at once allowing for multicolored objects to be created. [[File:Filament_Spool.jpg|250px|thumb|right|Example of a filament spool for a FDM printer.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Both Stratasys printers (Dimension and F370) use soluble support filament (the support filament dissolves in a heated sodium hydroxide bath), the Prusa printers use only a model material, and the Markforge printer only uses model material as well (however it will layer another filament for extra support). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament for these printers comes in spools (basically thin plastic ropes that are wound up). The filament is fed through an extruder head, heated to the desired temperature, then extruded (similar to what happens with a hot glue gun). &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
FDM printers can work with various materials, in the Prototype Lab we mainly stick to ABS which is used by the Stratasys machines and PLA which is used by the Prusas. The Markforge uses a material called Onyx (nylon and plastic mix) and will layer in another filament such as Carbon Fiber, Kevlar, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==General Laser Cutting Knowledge==&lt;br /&gt;
Laser cutting directs a high-powered laser through optics. The laser cutter follows a predetermined pattern to engrave or cut the material. Laser cutting is a great way to get a professional-looking surface finish. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can be used for many different materials ranging between wood, glass, rock, plastics, and even engraving Hydroflasks. At this time, the laser cutter in the Prototype Lab is not set up for metal etching. &lt;br /&gt;
* Works best on flat surfaces or cylinders with constant diameters. &lt;br /&gt;
There are a couple common steps that must be done correctly when using the laser cutter:&lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that the lens and cone are clean before starting a print.&lt;br /&gt;
* Correctly focus the laser above the material, using the correct focusing tool for the lens type.&lt;br /&gt;
* Choose the correct material profile for the material you are using. &lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the bed of the laser cutter when you are finished.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask:&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
 [[Is located in facility::Prototype Lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |?Has icon&lt;br /&gt;
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}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Foxtale Certification ==&lt;br /&gt;
Before working with any of the equipment in the prototype lab you will need to take the [https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31319 general lab quiz] as well as the specific quiz for each machine you are trying to use. The enrollment code for all of the quizzes is MakerHub.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Laser_Cutters&amp;diff=5615</id>
		<title>Laser Cutters</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Laser_Cutters&amp;diff=5615"/>
		<updated>2019-09-16T06:33:07Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Soldering Iron&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:laser_cutter_image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Trotec&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Maker Hub Laser Cutters ==&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask: &lt;br /&gt;
  [[Is laser cutter equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
  |format=ul&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Laser_Cutters&amp;diff=5614</id>
		<title>Laser Cutters</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Laser_Cutters&amp;diff=5614"/>
		<updated>2019-09-16T06:32:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Soldering Iron&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:laser_cutter_image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Trotec&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Maker Hub Laser Cutters ==&lt;br /&gt;
{{#ask: &lt;br /&gt;
  [[Is laser cutter equipment::True]]&lt;br /&gt;
  |format=ul&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5528</id>
		<title>Milling Machine</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5528"/>
		<updated>2019-08-16T00:05:49Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: /* Overview */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has redirect={{FULLPAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:milling_machine_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Milling machine icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:milling_machine_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:milling_machine.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Bridge Port Mill&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Bridgeport&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Series I&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Jacob Bodge;jbodge14@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Bridgeport Series 1 Mill is a vertical mill used to mill various materials into desired shapes and sizes. It can also be used to perform special functions such as drilling, chamfering, reaming, fly cutting, and many more. Some examples of items made from mills are piston bore holes, valve plates, gears, and even your own tools. This is done by using a rotary cutter to remove material by advancing a cutter into a work piece in  varying direction along three axes. Milling covers a wide variety of different operations and machines, on scales from small individual parts to large, heavy-duty gang milling operations. It is one of the most commonly used processes for machining custom parts to precise tolerances. The video below shows a part being machined by a CNC mill which is a computer driven mill, but still demonstrates the milling process. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cp4eCXnc4Q}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Spindle - The rotating shaft, driven by the motor, that holds the cutting tools.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill - The part of the vertical milling machine that raises and lowers cutting tools held in the spindle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill Handle - The long handle on the right side of the machine that raises and lowers the quill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Endmill - A common machining tool having cutting teeth on the end of a cylindrical shank and usually spiral blades on the lateral surface. Because of this geometry it can cut in any direction. &lt;br /&gt;
* Facing - The process of cutting a flat surface perpendicular to the axes of the milling cutter. Often this is done on the initial piece of raw stock as the first step in the milling process.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Deburring - To neaten and smooth the rough edges or ridges of a part after it has been machined.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Edge finding - The process of using an edge finder to align the coordinate system of the mill with the corner of your part.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Collet - A device that forms a collar around an object to be held and exerts a strong clamping force on the object when it is tightened. On the mill the collet is attached to the spindle and is used to hold cutting tools in place.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Parallels - Thin, flat pieces of metal that are used to hold a work piece &amp;quot;parallel&amp;quot; to the mill's work table.    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== [https://www.hardinge.com/wp-content/uploads/KneeMill-Complete-Manual.pdf User Manual] ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Overview ====&lt;br /&gt;
When making a part, it can usually be milled in several different ways and as a result this will focus on general operations such as changing tools, starting and stopping the spindle, changing speeds, and changing gears. To learn how to mill the specific part for the demonstration see the video below. The first thing you will need to do is properly secure your work piece in the vice. Place the piece in between the jaws and turn the handle clockwise to tighten. If the piece is to small to protrude from the top of the vice use a set of parallels to raise the work piece above the vice. This makes it easy to face the work piece without damaging the vice. Next you will need to insert a tool. To insert a cutting tool under the new system, push the tool upwards into the collet with one hand and then push quill handle up with the other to compress the spring above the collet. Pushing up on the quill handle will allow the the tool to slide up into the collet and the tool will lock in place once the handle is lowered. A decent amount of force is required to compress the spring so don't be afraid to push hard. To release the tool, hold it in one hand while pushing up on the quill handle and then pull it out once the spring is compressed. You are then ready to begin machining. Use the spindle start-stop switch to turn on the mill. You will notice an option for high or low on the switch. If the mill is in high gear, the high setting will run the spindle forward (clockwise) and the low setting will run the spindle in reverse. If the mill is in low gear, the opposite will occur. If you are not sure what gear the mill is in look at the high-low lever to determine the gear (check out the images below to see the location of the switches). Once the mill is on you will need to adjust the spindle speed to match your material by referring to the speed chart on the wall above the mill and turning the spindle speed hand wheel till the speed is correct. Only adjust the speed while the machine is ON. You may need to switch gears to achieve the proper speed. Do this by rotating the high-low range lever from the current gear to the desired gear. Do not force the lever into place if there is resistance; instead use your other hand to slightly twist the spindle so that the range lever slides into place. After the machine is on, use the axes adjustment handles and the digital display to mill your part. Feel free to ask a shop supervisor for specifics or best milling processes for your part.  &amp;lt;gallery widths=&amp;quot;250&amp;quot; heights=&amp;quot;250&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:MillOn.png&lt;br /&gt;
File:MillSpeed.png&lt;br /&gt;
File:MillRange.png&lt;br /&gt;
File:QuillHandle.png&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration, you will face a piece of aluminum stock, drill a hole in the center, ream the hole, and deburr all of the edges. Reference the video below to see what this should look like. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the Mills in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJjXAxYH9TA}}Note that the tool changing system has been upgraded since this video was made. To insert a cutting tool under the new system, push the tool upwards into the collet with one hand and then push quill handle up with the other to compress the spring above the collet. Pushing up on the quill handle will allow the the tool to slide up into the collet and the tool will lock in place once the handle is lowered. A decent amount of force is required to compress the spring so don't be afraid to push hard. To release the tool, hold it in one hand while pushing up on the quill handle and then pull it out once the spring is compressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
* General shop protocol is important when using the mill. Long hair, long sleeves, jewelry, gloves, and lanyards are all risks to be wrapped up by the spindle and should not be worn.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that there is plenty of space between the cutting tool and the work piece before turning on the mill. If the tool comes into contact with the work piece before getting up to speed and is set deeper than the maximum cutting depth things will break.    &lt;br /&gt;
* At times your work piece may be obscured by metal chips while cutting. Do not remove them while the machine is running. Turn of the mill, wait till it comes to a complete stop, and then remove the chips. There are some brushes on the tool rack that may be helpful for removing stubborn chips.    &lt;br /&gt;
* The milling process is great at creating sharp edges. Be aware of this when handling the work piece and make sure to deburr any sharp edges.     &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30472 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* Not cutting smoothly - Check that the spindle is set to the proper direction. This will cause the tool to not cut properly and will damage the tool. Check that the tool is sharp and the cut depth is not to large as well. Adding cutting oil will also improve the cut. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can't reach low spindle speeds - If you adjust the speed dial to a low spindle speed but the spindle is still moving fast then the mill must be switched into low range. Stop the mill, flip the lever on the right side of the machine to low, and then turn the mill back on. Make sure to turn on switch to low when the mill is in low range or the spindle will spin backwards. &lt;br /&gt;
* Difficult to shift to low range - At times it can difficult to lock the lever into place when switching between high and low range. If this occurs, twist the spindle slightly while switching the lever so that it will lock in place. Twisting the spindle helps the internal gears lock into place properly. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This machine requires minimal maintenance but like all the other machines in the Maker Hub it is important to clean the machine of metal chips and any other debris after each use. The shop vac is best suited for this task. Anything more advanced is taken care of by Justin.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5519</id>
		<title>Milling Machine</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5519"/>
		<updated>2019-08-15T23:37:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: /* Overview */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
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 |Has imagedesc=Bridge Port Mill&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Bridgeport&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Series I&lt;br /&gt;
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}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Bridgeport Series 1 Mill is a vertical mill used to mill various materials into desired shapes and sizes. It can also be used to perform special functions such as drilling, chamfering, reaming, fly cutting, and many more. Some examples of items made from mills are piston bore holes, valve plates, gears, and even your own tools. This is done by using a rotary cutter to remove material by advancing a cutter into a work piece in  varying direction along three axes. Milling covers a wide variety of different operations and machines, on scales from small individual parts to large, heavy-duty gang milling operations. It is one of the most commonly used processes for machining custom parts to precise tolerances. The video below shows a part being machined by a CNC mill which is a computer driven mill, but still demonstrates the milling process. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cp4eCXnc4Q}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Spindle - The rotating shaft, driven by the motor, that holds the cutting tools.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill - The part of the vertical milling machine that raises and lowers cutting tools held in the spindle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill Handle - The long handle on the right side of the machine that raises and lowers the quill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Endmill - A common machining tool having cutting teeth on the end of a cylindrical shank and usually spiral blades on the lateral surface. Because of this geometry it can cut in any direction. &lt;br /&gt;
* Facing - The process of cutting a flat surface perpendicular to the axes of the milling cutter. Often this is done on the initial piece of raw stock as the first step in the milling process.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Deburring - To neaten and smooth the rough edges or ridges of a part after it has been machined.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Edge finding - The process of using an edge finder to align the coordinate system of the mill with the corner of your part.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Collet - A device that forms a collar around an object to be held and exerts a strong clamping force on the object when it is tightened. On the mill the collet is attached to the spindle and is used to hold cutting tools in place.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== [https://www.hardinge.com/wp-content/uploads/KneeMill-Complete-Manual.pdf User Manual] ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Overview ====&lt;br /&gt;
When making a part, it can usually be milled in several different ways and as a result this will focus on general operations such as changing tools, starting and stopping the spindle, changing speeds, and changing gears. To learn how to mill the specific part for the demonstration see the video below. &amp;lt;gallery widths=&amp;quot;250&amp;quot; heights=&amp;quot;250&amp;quot;&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:MillOn.png&lt;br /&gt;
File:MillSpeed.png&lt;br /&gt;
File:MillRange.png&lt;br /&gt;
File:QuillHandle.png&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration, you will face a piece of aluminum stock, drill a hole in the center, ream the hole, and deburr all of the edges. Reference the video below to see what this should look like. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the Mills in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJjXAxYH9TA}}Note that the tool changing system has been upgraded since this video was made. To insert a cutting tool under the new system, push the tool upwards into the collet with one hand and then push quill handle up with the other to compress the spring above the collet. Pushing up on the quill handle will allow the the tool to slide up into the collet and the tool will lock in place once the handle is lowered. A decent amount of force is required to compress the spring so don't be afraid to push hard. To release the tool, hold it in one hand while  pushing up on the quill handle and then pull it out once the spring is compressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
* General shop protocol is important when using the mill. Long hair, long sleeves, jewelry, gloves, and lanyards are all risks to be wrapped up by the spindle and should not be worn.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that there is plenty of space between the cutting tool and the work piece before turning on the mill. If the tool comes into contact with the work piece before getting up to speed and is set deeper than the maximum cutting depth things will break.    &lt;br /&gt;
* At times your work piece may be obscured by metal chips while cutting. Do not remove them while the machine is running. Turn of the mill, wait till it comes to a complete stop, and then remove the chips. There are some brushes on the tool rack that may be helpful for removing stubborn chips.    &lt;br /&gt;
* The milling process is great at creating sharp edges. Be aware of this when handling the work piece and make sure to deburr any sharp edges.     &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30472 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* Not cutting smoothly - Check that the spindle is set to the proper direction. This will cause the tool to not cut properly and will damage the tool. Check that the tool is sharp and the cut depth is not to large as well. Adding cutting oil will also improve the cut. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can't reach low spindle speeds - If you adjust the speed dial to a low spindle speed but the spindle is still moving fast then the mill must be switched into low range. Stop the mill, flip the lever on the right side of the machine to low, and then turn the mill back on. Make sure to turn on switch to low when the mill is in low range or the spindle will spin backwards. &lt;br /&gt;
* Difficult to shift to low range - At times it can difficult to lock the lever into place when switching between high and low range. If this occurs, twist the spindle slightly while switching the lever so that it will lock in place. Twisting the spindle helps the internal gears lock into place properly. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This machine requires minimal maintenance but like all the other machines in the Maker Hub it is important to clean the machine of metal chips and any other debris after each use. The shop vac is best suited for this task. Anything more advanced is taken care of by Justin.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5516</id>
		<title>Milling Machine</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5516"/>
		<updated>2019-08-15T18:33:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has redirect={{FULLPAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:milling_machine_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Milling machine icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:milling_machine_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:milling_machine.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Bridge Port Mill&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Bridgeport&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Series I&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Jacob Bodge;jbodge14@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Bridgeport Series 1 Mill is a vertical mill used to mill various materials into desired shapes and sizes. It can also be used to perform special functions such as drilling, chamfering, reaming, fly cutting, and many more. Some examples of items made from mills are piston bore holes, valve plates, gears, and even your own tools. This is done by using a rotary cutter to remove material by advancing a cutter into a work piece in  varying direction along three axes. Milling covers a wide variety of different operations and machines, on scales from small individual parts to large, heavy-duty gang milling operations. It is one of the most commonly used processes for machining custom parts to precise tolerances. The video below shows a part being machined by a CNC mill which is a computer driven mill, but still demonstrates the milling process. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cp4eCXnc4Q}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Spindle - The rotating shaft, driven by the motor, that holds the cutting tools.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill - The part of the vertical milling machine that raises and lowers cutting tools held in the spindle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill Handle - The long handle on the right side of the machine that raises and lowers the quill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Endmill - A common machining tool having cutting teeth on the end of a cylindrical shank and usually spiral blades on the lateral surface. Because of this geometry it can cut in any direction. &lt;br /&gt;
* Facing - The process of cutting a flat surface perpendicular to the axes of the milling cutter. Often this is done on the initial piece of raw stock as the first step in the milling process.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Deburring - To neaten and smooth the rough edges or ridges of a part after it has been machined.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Edge finding - The process of using an edge finder to align the coordinate system of the mill with the corner of your part.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Collet - A device that forms a collar around an object to be held and exerts a strong clamping force on the object when it is tightened. On the mill the collet is attached to the spindle and is used to hold cutting tools in place.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== [https://www.hardinge.com/wp-content/uploads/KneeMill-Complete-Manual.pdf User Manual] ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
File:MillOn.png|Substrates&lt;br /&gt;
File:MillSpeed.png|dd&lt;br /&gt;
File:MillRange.png|Probe&lt;br /&gt;
File:QuillHandle.png|thumb&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/gallery&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration, you will face a piece of aluminum stock, drill a hole in the center, ream the hole, and deburr all of the edges. Reference the video below to see what this should look like. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the Mills in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJjXAxYH9TA}}Note that the tool changing system has been upgraded since this video was made. To insert a cutting tool under the new system, push the tool upwards into the collet with one hand and then push quill handle up with the other to compress the spring above the collet. Pushing up on the quill handle will allow the the tool to slide up into the collet and the tool will lock in place once the handle is lowered. A decent amount of force is required to compress the spring so don't be afraid to push hard. To release the tool, hold it in one hand while  pushing up on the quill handle and then pull it out once the spring is compressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
* General shop protocol is important when using the mill. Long hair, long sleeves, jewelry, gloves, and lanyards are all risks to be wrapped up by the spindle and should not be worn.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that there is plenty of space between the cutting tool and the work piece before turning on the mill. If the tool comes into contact with the work piece before getting up to speed and is set deeper than the maximum cutting depth things will break.    &lt;br /&gt;
* At times your work piece may be obscured by metal chips while cutting. Do not remove them while the machine is running. Turn of the mill, wait till it comes to a complete stop, and then remove the chips. There are some brushes on the tool rack that may be helpful for removing stubborn chips.    &lt;br /&gt;
* The milling process is great at creating sharp edges. Be aware of this when handling the work piece and make sure to deburr any sharp edges.     &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30472 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* Not cutting smoothly - Check that the spindle is set to the proper direction. This will cause the tool to not cut properly and will damage the tool. Check that the tool is sharp and the cut depth is not to large as well. Adding cutting oil will also improve the cut. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can't reach low spindle speeds - If you adjust the speed dial to a low spindle speed but the spindle is still moving fast then the mill must be switched into low range. Stop the mill, flip the lever on the right side of the machine to low, and then turn the mill back on. Make sure to turn on switch to low when the mill is in low range or the spindle will spin backwards. &lt;br /&gt;
* Difficult to shift to low range - At times it can difficult to lock the lever into place when switching between high and low range. If this occurs, twist the spindle slightly while switching the lever so that it will lock in place. Twisting the spindle helps the internal gears lock into place properly. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This machine requires minimal maintenance but like all the other machines in the Maker Hub it is important to clean the machine of metal chips and any other debris after each use. The shop vac is best suited for this task. Anything more advanced is taken care of by Justin.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5512</id>
		<title>Milling Machine</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5512"/>
		<updated>2019-08-15T18:02:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: /* Overview */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has redirect={{FULLPAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:milling_machine_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Milling machine icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:milling_machine_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:milling_machine.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Bridge Port Mill&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Bridgeport&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Series I&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Jacob Bodge;jbodge14@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Bridgeport Series 1 Mill is a vertical mill used to mill various materials into desired shapes and sizes. It can also be used to perform special functions such as drilling, chamfering, reaming, fly cutting, and many more. Some examples of items made from mills are piston bore holes, valve plates, gears, and even your own tools. This is done by using a rotary cutter to remove material by advancing a cutter into a work piece in  varying direction along three axes. Milling covers a wide variety of different operations and machines, on scales from small individual parts to large, heavy-duty gang milling operations. It is one of the most commonly used processes for machining custom parts to precise tolerances. The video below shows a part being machined by a CNC mill which is a computer driven mill, but still demonstrates the milling process. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cp4eCXnc4Q}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
*[[File:MillRange.png|thumb]]Spindle - The rotating shaft, driven by the motor, that holds the cutting tools.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill - The part of the vertical milling machine that raises and lowers cutting tools held in the spindle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill Handle - The long handle on the right side of the machine that raises and lowers the quill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Endmill - A common machining tool having cutting teeth on the end of a cylindrical shank and usually spiral blades on the lateral surface. Because of this geometry it can cut in any direction. &lt;br /&gt;
* Facing - The process of cutting a flat surface perpendicular to the axes of the milling cutter. Often this is done on the initial piece of raw stock as the first step in the milling process.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Deburring - To neaten and smooth the rough edges or ridges of a part after it has been machined.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Edge finding - The process of using an edge finder to align the coordinate system of the mill with the corner of your part.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Collet - A device that forms a collar around an object to be held and exerts a strong clamping force on the object when it is tightened. On the mill the collet is attached to the spindle and is used to hold cutting tools in place.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== [https://www.hardinge.com/wp-content/uploads/KneeMill-Complete-Manual.pdf User Manual] ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:QuillHandle.png|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MillOn.png|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:MillSpeed.png|thumb]]&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration, you will face a piece of aluminum stock, drill a hole in the center, ream the hole, and deburr all of the edges. Reference the video below to see what this should look like. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the Mills in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJjXAxYH9TA}}Note that the tool changing system has been upgraded since this video was made. To insert a cutting tool under the new system, push the tool upwards into the collet with one hand and then push quill handle up with the other to compress the spring above the collet. Pushing up on the quill handle will allow the the tool to slide up into the collet and the tool will lock in place once the handle is lowered. A decent amount of force is required to compress the spring so don't be afraid to push hard. To release the tool, hold it in one hand while  pushing up on the quill handle and then pull it out once the spring is compressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
* General shop protocol is important when using the mill. Long hair, long sleeves, jewelry, gloves, and lanyards are all risks to be wrapped up by the spindle and should not be worn.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that there is plenty of space between the cutting tool and the work piece before turning on the mill. If the tool comes into contact with the work piece before getting up to speed and is set deeper than the maximum cutting depth things will break.    &lt;br /&gt;
* At times your work piece may be obscured by metal chips while cutting. Do not remove them while the machine is running. Turn of the mill, wait till it comes to a complete stop, and then remove the chips. There are some brushes on the tool rack that may be helpful for removing stubborn chips.    &lt;br /&gt;
* The milling process is great at creating sharp edges. Be aware of this when handling the work piece and make sure to deburr any sharp edges.     &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30472 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* Not cutting smoothly - Check that the spindle is set to the proper direction. This will cause the tool to not cut properly and will damage the tool. Check that the tool is sharp and the cut depth is not to large as well. Adding cutting oil will also improve the cut. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can't reach low spindle speeds - If you adjust the speed dial to a low spindle speed but the spindle is still moving fast then the mill must be switched into low range. Stop the mill, flip the lever on the right side of the machine to low, and then turn the mill back on. Make sure to turn on switch to low when the mill is in low range or the spindle will spin backwards. &lt;br /&gt;
* Difficult to shift to low range - At times it can difficult to lock the lever into place when switching between high and low range. If this occurs, twist the spindle slightly while switching the lever so that it will lock in place. Twisting the spindle helps the internal gears lock into place properly. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This machine requires minimal maintenance but like all the other machines in the Maker Hub it is important to clean the machine of metal chips and any other debris after each use. The shop vac is best suited for this task. Anything more advanced is taken care of by Justin.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:MillSpeed.png&amp;diff=5511</id>
		<title>File:MillSpeed.png</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:MillSpeed.png&amp;diff=5511"/>
		<updated>2019-08-15T18:01:16Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;MillSpeed&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:QuillHandle.png&amp;diff=5510</id>
		<title>File:QuillHandle.png</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:QuillHandle.png&amp;diff=5510"/>
		<updated>2019-08-15T17:54:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;QuillHandle&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:MillRange.png&amp;diff=5509</id>
		<title>File:MillRange.png</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:MillRange.png&amp;diff=5509"/>
		<updated>2019-08-15T17:54:23Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;MillRange&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:MillOn.png&amp;diff=5508</id>
		<title>File:MillOn.png</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:MillOn.png&amp;diff=5508"/>
		<updated>2019-08-15T17:53:44Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;MillOn&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5506</id>
		<title>Milling Machine</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5506"/>
		<updated>2019-08-15T17:36:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has redirect={{FULLPAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:milling_machine_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Milling machine icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:milling_machine_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:milling_machine.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Bridge Port Mill&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Bridgeport&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Series I&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Jacob Bodge;jbodge14@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Bridgeport Series 1 Mill is a vertical mill used to mill various materials into desired shapes and sizes. It can also be used to perform special functions such as drilling, chamfering, reaming, fly cutting, and many more. Some examples of items made from mills are piston bore holes, valve plates, gears, and even your own tools. This is done by using a rotary cutter to remove material by advancing a cutter into a work piece in  varying direction along three axes. Milling covers a wide variety of different operations and machines, on scales from small individual parts to large, heavy-duty gang milling operations. It is one of the most commonly used processes for machining custom parts to precise tolerances. The video below shows a part being machined by a CNC mill which is a computer driven mill, but still demonstrates the milling process. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cp4eCXnc4Q}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Spindle - The rotating shaft, driven by the motor, that holds the cutting tools.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill - The part of the vertical milling machine that raises and lowers cutting tools held in the spindle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill Handle - The long handle on the right side of the machine that raises and lowers the quill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Endmill - A common machining tool having cutting teeth on the end of a cylindrical shank and usually spiral blades on the lateral surface. Because of this geometry it can cut in any direction. &lt;br /&gt;
* Facing - The process of cutting a flat surface perpendicular to the axes of the milling cutter. Often this is done on the initial piece of raw stock as the first step in the milling process.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Deburring - To neaten and smooth the rough edges or ridges of a part after it has been machined.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Edge finding - The process of using an edge finder to align the coordinate system of the mill with the corner of your part.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Collet - A device that forms a collar around an object to be held and exerts a strong clamping force on the object when it is tightened. On the mill the collet is attached to the spindle and is used to hold cutting tools in place.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== [https://www.hardinge.com/wp-content/uploads/KneeMill-Complete-Manual.pdf User Manual] ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration, you will face a piece of aluminum stock, drill a hole in the center, ream the hole, and deburr all of the edges. Reference the video below to see what this should look like. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the Mills in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJjXAxYH9TA}}Note that the tool changing system has been upgraded since this video was made. To insert a cutting tool under the new system, push the tool upwards into the collet with one hand and then push quill handle up with the other to compress the spring above the collet. Pushing up on the quill handle will allow the the tool to slide up into the collet and the tool will lock in place once the handle is lowered. A decent amount of force is required to compress the spring so don't be afraid to push hard. To release the tool, hold it in one hand while  pushing up on the quill handle and then pull it out once the spring is compressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
* General shop protocol is important when using the mill. Long hair, long sleeves, jewelry, gloves, and lanyards are all risks to be wrapped up by the spindle and should not be worn.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that there is plenty of space between the cutting tool and the work piece before turning on the mill. If the tool comes into contact with the work piece before getting up to speed and is set deeper than the maximum cutting depth things will break.    &lt;br /&gt;
* At times your work piece may be obscured by metal chips while cutting. Do not remove them while the machine is running. Turn of the mill, wait till it comes to a complete stop, and then remove the chips. There are some brushes on the tool rack that may be helpful for removing stubborn chips.    &lt;br /&gt;
* The milling process is great at creating sharp edges. Be aware of this when handling the work piece and make sure to deburr any sharp edges.     &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30472 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* Not cutting smoothly - Check that the spindle is set to the proper direction. This will cause the tool to not cut properly and will damage the tool. Check that the tool is sharp and the cut depth is not to large as well. Adding cutting oil will also improve the cut. &lt;br /&gt;
* Can't reach low spindle speeds - If you adjust the speed dial to a low spindle speed but the spindle is still moving fast then the mill must be switched into low range. Stop the mill, flip the lever on the right side of the machine to low, and then turn the mill back on. Make sure to turn on switch to low when the mill is in low range or the spindle will spin backwards. &lt;br /&gt;
* Difficult to shift to low range - At times it can difficult to lock the lever into place when switching between high and low range. If this occurs, twist the spindle slightly while switching the lever so that it will lock in place. Twisting the spindle helps the internal gears lock into place properly. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This machine requires minimal maintenance but like all the other machines in the Maker Hub it is important to clean the machine of metal chips and any other debris after each use. The shop vac is best suited for this task. Anything more advanced is taken care of by Justin.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5485</id>
		<title>Milling Machine</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5485"/>
		<updated>2019-08-15T16:31:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: /* General Procedure */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has redirect={{FULLPAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:milling_machine_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Milling machine icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:milling_machine_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:milling_machine.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Bridge Port Mill&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Bridgeport&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Series I&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Jacob Bodge;jbodge14@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Bridgeport Series 1 Mill is a vertical mill used to mill various materials into desired shapes and sizes. It can also be used to perform special functions such as drilling, chamfering, reaming, fly cutting, and many more. Some examples of items made from mills are piston bore holes, valve plates, gears, and even your own tools. This is done by using a rotary cutter to remove material by advancing a cutter into a work piece in  varying direction along three axes. Milling covers a wide variety of different operations and machines, on scales from small individual parts to large, heavy-duty gang milling operations. It is one of the most commonly used processes for machining custom parts to precise tolerances. The video below shows a part being machined by a CNC mill which is a computer driven mill, but still demonstrates the milling process. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cp4eCXnc4Q}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Spindle - The rotating shaft, driven by the motor, that holds the cutting tools.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill - The part of the vertical milling machine that raises and lowers cutting tools held in the spindle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill Handle - The long handle on the right side of the machine that raises and lowers the quill.&lt;br /&gt;
* Endmill - A common machining tool having cutting teeth on the end of a cylindrical shank and usually spiral blades on the lateral surface. Because of this geometry it can cut in any direction. &lt;br /&gt;
* Facing - The process of cutting a flat surface perpendicular to the axes of the milling cutter. Often this is done on the initial piece of raw stock as the first step in the milling process.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Deburring - To neaten and smooth the rough edges or ridges of a part after it has been machined.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Edge finding - The process of using an edge finder to align the coordinate system of the mill with the corner of your part.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Collet - A device that forms a collar around an object to be held and exerts a strong clamping force on the object when it is tightened. On the mill the collet is attached to the spindle and is used to hold cutting tools in place.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== [https://www.hardinge.com/wp-content/uploads/KneeMill-Complete-Manual.pdf User Manual] ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration, you will face a piece of aluminum stock, drill a hole in the center, ream the hole, and deburr all of the edges. Reference the video below to see what this should look like. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the Mills in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJjXAxYH9TA}}Note that the tool changing system has been upgraded since this video was made. To insert a cutting tool under the new system, push the tool upwards into the collet with one hand and then push quill handle up with the other to compress the spring above the collet. Pushing up on the quill handle will allow the the tool to slide up into the collet and the tool will lock in place once the handle is lowered. A decent amount of force is required to compress the spring so don't be afraid to push hard. To release the tool, hold it in one hand while  pushing up on the quill handle and then pull it out once the spring is compressed. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
* General shop protocol is important when using the mill. Long hair, long sleeves, jewelry, gloves, and lanyards are all risks to be wrapped up by the spindle and should not be worn.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that there is plenty of space between    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30472 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
I do what i want&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This machine requires minimal maintenance but like all the other machines in the Maker Hub it is important to clean the machine of metal chips and any other debris after each use. Anything more advanced is taken care of by Justin.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5484</id>
		<title>Milling Machine</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5484"/>
		<updated>2019-08-14T17:15:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: /* Safety */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has redirect={{FULLPAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:milling_machine_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Milling machine icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:milling_machine_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:milling_machine.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Bridge Port Mill&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Bridgeport&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Series I&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Jacob Bodge;jbodge14@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Bridgeport Series 1 Mill is a vertical mill used to mill various materials into desired shapes and sizes. It can also be used to perform special functions such as drilling, chamfering, reaming, fly cutting, and many more. Some examples of items made from mills are piston bore holes, valve plates, gears, and even your own tools. This is done by using a rotary cutter to remove material by advancing a cutter into a work piece in  varying direction along three axes. Milling covers a wide variety of different operations and machines, on scales from small individual parts to large, heavy-duty gang milling operations. It is one of the most commonly used processes for machining custom parts to precise tolerances. The video below shows a part being machined by a CNC mill which is a computer driven mill, but still demonstrates the milling process. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cp4eCXnc4Q}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Spindle - The rotating shaft, driven by the motor, that holds the cutting tools.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill - The part of the vertical milling machine that raises and lowers cutting tools held in the spindle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Endmill - A common machining tool having cutting teeth on the end of a cylindrical shank and usually spiral blades on the lateral surface. Because of this geometry it can cut in any direction. &lt;br /&gt;
* Facing - The process of cutting a flat surface perpendicular to the axes of the milling cutter. Often this is done on the initial piece of raw stock as the first step in the milling process.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Deburring - To neaten and smooth the rough edges or ridges of a part after it has been machined.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Edge finding - The process of using an edge finder to align the coordinate system of the mill with the corner of your part.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== [https://www.hardinge.com/wp-content/uploads/KneeMill-Complete-Manual.pdf User Manual] ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration, you will face a piece of aluminum stock, drill a hole in the center, ream the hole, and deburr all of the edges. Reference the video below to see what this should look like. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the Mills in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJjXAxYH9TA}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
* General shop protocol is important when using the mill. Long hair, long sleeves, jewelry, gloves, and lanyards are all risks to be wrapped up by the spindle and should not be worn.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Always make sure that there is plenty of space between    &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30472 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
I do what i want&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This machine requires minimal maintenance but like all the other machines in the Maker Hub it is important to clean the machine of metal chips and any other debris after each use. Anything more advanced is taken care of by Justin.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5483</id>
		<title>Milling Machine</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Milling_Machine&amp;diff=5483"/>
		<updated>2019-08-13T17:47:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: /* Safety */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has redirect={{FULLPAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:milling_machine_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Milling machine icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:milling_machine_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:milling_machine.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Bridge Port Mill&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Bridgeport&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Series I&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Jacob Bodge;jbodge14@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Bridgeport Series 1 Mill is a vertical mill used to mill various materials into desired shapes and sizes. It can also be used to perform special functions such as drilling, chamfering, reaming, fly cutting, and many more. Some examples of items made from mills are piston bore holes, valve plates, gears, and even your own tools. This is done by using a rotary cutter to remove material by advancing a cutter into a work piece in  varying direction along three axes. Milling covers a wide variety of different operations and machines, on scales from small individual parts to large, heavy-duty gang milling operations. It is one of the most commonly used processes for machining custom parts to precise tolerances. The video below shows a part being machined by a CNC mill which is a computer driven mill, but still demonstrates the milling process. &lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cp4eCXnc4Q}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Spindle - The rotating shaft, driven by the motor, that holds the cutting tools.&lt;br /&gt;
* Quill - The part of the vertical milling machine that raises and lowers cutting tools held in the spindle.&lt;br /&gt;
* Endmill - A common machining tool having cutting teeth on the end of a cylindrical shank and usually spiral blades on the lateral surface. Because of this geometry it can cut in any direction. &lt;br /&gt;
* Facing - The process of cutting a flat surface perpendicular to the axes of the milling cutter. Often this is done on the initial piece of raw stock as the first step in the milling process.  &lt;br /&gt;
* Deburring - To neaten and smooth the rough edges or ridges of a part after it has been machined.   &lt;br /&gt;
* Edge finding - The process of using an edge finder to align the coordinate system of the mill with the corner of your part.   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== [https://www.hardinge.com/wp-content/uploads/KneeMill-Complete-Manual.pdf User Manual] ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert Text&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the demonstration, you will face a piece of aluminum stock, drill a hole in the center, ream the hole, and deburr all of the edges. Reference the video below to see what this should look like. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the Mills in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJjXAxYH9TA}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Safety ==&lt;br /&gt;
* General shop protocol is important   &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30472 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
I do what i want&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This machine requires minimal maintenance but like all the other machines in the Maker Hub it is important to clean the machine of metal chips and any other debris after each use. Anything more advanced is taken care of by Justin.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Markforged_3D_Printer&amp;diff=5481</id>
		<title>Markforged 3D Printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Markforged_3D_Printer&amp;diff=5481"/>
		<updated>2019-08-13T16:23:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: /* Certification */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Prototype Lab&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Electronics&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:Mark 2 3D printer.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:mark_two.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=The Mark II machine by Markforged.&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has certification=&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has group=3D Printers&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Markforged&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=Mark II&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Ben Kraske;bkraske16@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Mark Two is a desktop professional 3D printer capable of reinforcing parts with composite fiber, affording them durability and strength. It can print in a range of materials, including Nylon, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, and Kevlar.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o02D94B4y8&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;t=26}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
Inlay - embedding pieces of a different material into another, in this case embedding carbon fiber or another&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fiber - A non-plastic material which in this case comes in a strand/spool and is inlayed into the base plastic&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Composite Materials - material made from two or more constituent materials with significantly different physical or chemical properties that, when combined, produce a material with characteristics different from the individual&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dry Box - dry box is a storage container in which the interior is kept at a low level of humidity, in this case in order to prevent the material from being damaged&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Eiger - Software used to set up prints on the Mark Two, accessible from most browsers (i.e. Chrome). Account-based, requires an account to use.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Purge - Rapid printing of excess material which has been sitting in the machine lines for a long period of time. This helps ensure a print will be of acceptable quality by removing any potentially humidity compromised material from the lines&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Onyx - Markforged prefered primary printing material. It is a vinyl base with chopped carbon fiber in the filament.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/mark-two Product Information from 3D Hubs]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two User Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://www.rdmag.com/article/2018/10/understanding-role-carbon-fiber-3d-printing Brief on Carbon Fiber Printing]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Mark II is a [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing|FDM Printer.]] See the main page for more background on the FDM process. What sets the Mark II apart is its ability to inlay various materials in the print using a second nozzle. These materials include carbon fiber, fiberglass, and kevlar. These smaller materials are located on the second, smaller spool in the rear of the build space. The inlaying of these materials can be customized in Eiger (the printing software for the Markforged). The main materials for the printer are nylon and onyx, this material is contained in the dry box (black box behind the printer) in order to limit moisture contamination. Don't open this unless you need to change the material. Nylon is a typical plastic filament, which provides a clean finish and some flexibility. Onyx is nylon with chopped carbon fiber. This provides more strength and a little less flexibility.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Prints on the Markforged must be started by a manager, as the software is account based.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete understanding of the Mark II, student will perform the setup and shut down procedures for printing a Coiler Winder.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# Software&lt;br /&gt;
## The Mark II utilizes cloud-based print software Eiger. This means that the software can be accessed from any browser, but an account is required to do so. As such, prints will need to be started by management.&lt;br /&gt;
## After login, the main screen returns to library. From this page, you can view and modify previous prints for reprinting or import a new STL for printing.&lt;br /&gt;
## Once imported or selected, print material may be selected (Onyx in this case) reinforcement type may be selected and orientation may be edited in the pane on the right. Clicking a part face will orient that face to the build plate. Reinforcement and material settings may be edited with drop-down menus (these are generally best done in the internal view). Brims and support may be toggled on or off from the Part Settings drop-down menu. All these options are available from part view.&lt;br /&gt;
## From internal view, density (number of layers of carbon fiber) may be viewed and edited using the slider at the bottom of the page (Blue is carbon fiber, White is main material).&lt;br /&gt;
## Material costs and totals may be viewed in the upper left of the part screen. It's worth noting the dramatic change in cost with addition of Carbon Fiber inlay.&lt;br /&gt;
## All Mark II prints should be okay-ed with Justin Johnson (the shop supervisor) before being started. Once setup is completed and the printer is on, prints are sent to the printer via the &amp;quot;Print&amp;quot; option. Generally, select the option to start the print from the machine, rather than automatically.&lt;br /&gt;
# Printer Setup&lt;br /&gt;
## The printer may be turned on with a switch on the rear of the machine. The machine will boot up and may need to update, let it complete this process. &lt;br /&gt;
## Before starting the print, glue needs to be applied to the build plate. Simply lift the build plate off the mount and apply the glue stick (found in the Markforged drawer/box) to the area where the print is located in the software (be sure to account for extra width due to the brim), the back of the plate where the machine will purge (print excess material which has been sitting in the lines and exposed to air), and the corner where the purge tower is located in the image below. [[File:Mark II Build Plate.jpg|thumb|A Mark II build plate with purge tower and purge line.|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
## Place the place back on the mount. The Mark II is ready to print! &lt;br /&gt;
# Printer Shutdown&lt;br /&gt;
## Upon completion of the part, select clear bed on the touchscreen and remove the build plate from the mount. The purge line and tower should be easily removable by hand. &lt;br /&gt;
## For the part itself, take the putty knife found in the Markforged drawer/box and carefully remove the part. This may take quite a bit of force to accomplish. Make sure the blade of the putty knife and your hand will never come into contact if you slip (i.e.: brace the plate on the table and push the knife away from you along the plate). Work the knife along the perimeter of the part's attachment to the build plate and avoid prying with the knife when possible. [[File:Removing Parts from Mark II Build Plate.jpg|thumb|Removing parts from the Mark II build plate.|none]]&lt;br /&gt;
## After the part is removed, wash the plate with warm water only. When the plate is clean, dry it with a paper towel and place it back on the mounts.&lt;br /&gt;
## The plate is ceramic, avoid dropping it. The plate will absorb oil, it is normal to see fingerprints, etc. on the plate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
# Please take care when removing parts from the plate so as to NOT CUT YOURSELF with the putty knife. FDM printers use heating of material to form a 3D model, like a hot glue gun. As such, the extruder head of the printer will be warm. DO NOT TOUCH THE EXTRUDER when it is hot. Doing so will result in burns. &lt;br /&gt;
# Although this should be a non-issue, fiber strands are fairly thin and sharp. DON’T IMPALE YOURSELF. &lt;br /&gt;
# The top of the printer may be opened for maintenance and inspection. This leaves the gantry with the print head on it exposed. DO NOT PUT YOUR HAND IN THE MOVING MACHINERY. Doing so may result in pinching, crushing, cutting, “ouch”-ing, crying, and other unpleasant “-ings”.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31285 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
See the  the [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two Support Page] for troubleshooting guides.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All maintenance will be performed by the Ace of the Mark II or managers. Specific maintenance tasks are listed below.&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Changing Materials&lt;br /&gt;
|When needed, Use the key located in ask managers or Justin to unlock the dry box&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/208342553-Unload-Plastic Unload Plastic] instructions to remove what is left of current primary material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000403824-Set-Up-and-Load-Plastic Set Up and Load Plastic] instructions to insert new primary material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000543824-Unload-Fiber Unload Fiber] instructions to remove what is left of current inlay material.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/208198473-Set-Up-and-Load-Fiber Set Up and Load Fiber] instructions to insert new primary material.&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace or Managers&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Calibration and Setup&lt;br /&gt;
|Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/207896386-Level-the-Print-Bed Level the Print Bed] instructions to level the print bed and set the correct nozzle heights.&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace or managers&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Additional Calibration and Maintenance&lt;br /&gt;
|See the [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two Support Page] for additional maintenance and operation guides.&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace or managers&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;references /&amp;gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Vertical_Bandsaw&amp;diff=5480</id>
		<title>Vertical Bandsaw</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Vertical_Bandsaw&amp;diff=5480"/>
		<updated>2019-08-13T16:22:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: /* Certification */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=DoALL&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=ML&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility=Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Vertical Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=[[File:vertical_bandsaw_icon.png]]&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Vertical Bandsaw icon&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:vertical_bandsaw_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:doall_vertical_bandsaw_image.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Doall Model ML Vertical Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Used various pieces in straight, curved, or unusual shapes&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has QR code=File:Vertical  Bandsaw QR code.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Madi Jones;mjones16@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Vertical Bandsaw is just like any other type of bandsaw in that it is a power tool used to cut various metal and wood pieces. The saw consists of a solid band of metal with edged teeth on it for ease of cutting. Those looking for uniform cutting results will make use of this type of saw.  While their main function is to cut curved or unusual shapes, they can also be used for straight cutting. These types of saws, specifically designed for metal cutting, are available in vertical and horizontal varieties.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4htjvBCcEI&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
Blade Kerf - The material lost due to the width of the blade&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Blade Guide - Guide the blade to keep it cutting straight. Should be adjusted to ¼ in above material being cut. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adjustment Knob - adjusts the height of the blade guide. Located at the back of the machine. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Adjustment Lock - locks the blade guide in place. Located at the back of the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Fence - Guides the stock through the blade. Attached to the side of the table. &lt;br /&gt;
* [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/9/96/Doall_ML_Parts_Manual.pdf Parts Manual]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://www.doallsaws.com/ Product Page]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A Vertical Bandsaw is just like any other type of bandsaw in that it is a power tool used to cut various metal and wood pieces. The saw consists of a solid band of metal with edged teeth on it for ease of cutting. Those looking for uniform cutting results will make use of this type of saw.  While their main function is to cut curved or unusual shapes, they can also be used for straight cutting. These types of saws, specifically designed for metal cutting, are available in vertical and horizontal varieties.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To show a complete knowledge of the Vertical Bandsaw, the student will cut a piece of acrylic stock.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
# The general procedure and additional knowledge can be found in the video above! The summary for operation is detailed below, but most of the stuff on the quiz will be in the video.&lt;br /&gt;
# Unlock the Blade Guide by turning the knob labeled &amp;quot;Lock&amp;quot; on the back of the machine. This allows you to alter the height of the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
# Set the Blade Guide Height by turning the knob labeled &amp;quot;Adjustment&amp;quot; on the back of the machine. A good height is about 1/4&amp;quot; above the piece you are cutting.&lt;br /&gt;
# Lock the Blade Guide by turning the knob labeled &amp;quot;Lock&amp;quot; on the back of the machine. This will secure the blade and provide a better cut.&lt;br /&gt;
# Check the stock height by placing he stock next to the blade to ensure the 1/4&amp;quot; margin is there. Double checking is always a good thing.&lt;br /&gt;
# Aim the Blow Off Nozzle. This blows away all the shavings that occur during the cutting process. Aim directly where the blade will come in contact with the stock.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make use of the fence. This is the pushing tool that is hanging from the bottom of the machine that guides the stock through the blade. Bring it up against your piece.&lt;br /&gt;
# Turn on the machine. The Black button is On, the Red button is Off.&lt;br /&gt;
# Now you are ready to begin cutting! Apply a gentle, steady pressure using the fence so that the acrylic piece is getting cut by the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once you are finished cutting the piece, turn off the machine, remove the fence and the piece from the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
# Reset the Space! Use the shop vacuum to remove all shavings on and around the machine.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
* Safety glasses must be worn when crossing into the shop area marked on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;
* No horseplay in the shop.&lt;br /&gt;
* Don’t do anything distracting to yourself or others while operating machinery.&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not wear any loose clothing, jewelry, or lanyards.&lt;br /&gt;
* No hats or open toed shoes.&lt;br /&gt;
* Hair will not extend below the collar.&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not wear gloves while operating machinery.&lt;br /&gt;
* Food or drink is allowed when not operating machinery and it is kept a safe distance away from the machines.&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not attempt to operate machinery in the shop that you have not been certified on by GFU engineering personnel.&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not argue with volunteers or shop staff. Contact Justin Johnson if you have issues that need to be resolved.&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not operate machinery without a shop supervisor or trained volunteer in the shop with you. Never operate equipment alone in the shop.&lt;br /&gt;
* The first aid kit is located in the machine shop, next to the woodshop doors.&lt;br /&gt;
* If you see a safety violation inform the person immediately and encourage them to comply with the policies&lt;br /&gt;
* Keep hand clear of the blade when cutting&lt;br /&gt;
* Securely hold stock when cutting&lt;br /&gt;
* Do not leave machine running while it is not cutting&lt;br /&gt;
* Wait for blade to stop moving before reaching for a small part near the blade.&lt;br /&gt;
* Don’t do anything that would require an additional rule to be added to this list.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30476 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
If the machine is making clunking noises when cutting, use the wax to clean the blade and clean out the chips inside the machine by opening up the table. Consult a shop supervisor for assistance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The Vertical Bandsaw should always be clean before and after use. If something is not working and needs to be fixed, consult a shop supervisor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Blade should be waxed&lt;br /&gt;
|As needed, usually when the machine starts making clunky noises&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|General Cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
|Before and after each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean inside of machine with vacuum&lt;br /&gt;
|Every 2 weeks&lt;br /&gt;
|Ace&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Horizontal_Bandsaw&amp;diff=5462</id>
		<title>Horizontal Bandsaw</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Horizontal_Bandsaw&amp;diff=5462"/>
		<updated>2019-08-12T23:50:11Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: /* User Manual */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is equipment=True&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has make=Ellis&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=1600&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Horizontal Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has url=http://www.ellissaw.com/mitre-band-saw-overview/1600-mitre-band-saw/&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:horizontal_bandsaw_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Horizontal Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:horizontal_bandsaw_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Ellis1600_Horizontal Bandsaw.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Ellis Model 1600 Horizontal Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Used to cut large stock&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has QR code=File:Horizontal Bandsaw QR code.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Noah Bloomquist; nbloomquist17@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]&lt;br /&gt;
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A horizontal band saw is a type of band saw where the piece stays stationary and the cutting head is a band saw arranged horizontally that cuts into the part by gravity assist. Our horizontal bandsaw in the shop is the [http://www.ellissaw.com/mitre-band-saw-overview/1600-mitre-band-saw Ellis Model 1600]. &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:black&amp;quot;&amp;gt;It can be used to rough cut metal or plastic (NO WOOD) stock to length. It has a cutting capacity of 10&amp;quot; Round and 10&amp;quot; by 8&amp;quot; rectangle at 90 degrees or 6-7/8&amp;quot; round and 8&amp;quot; by 6&amp;quot; rectangle when rotated to 45 degrees.&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Kerf - The slit made by cutting with a saw. This is important to keep in mind when positioning the cut or the final cut may end up shorter than desired. &lt;br /&gt;
* Horizontal Bandsaw Components:  [[File:Horizontal Bandsaw Terms.png|none|thumb|814x814px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== User Manual ====&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:Ellis_1600_Safety.pdf|Ellis 1600 Safety PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/b/b6/Ellis_1600_Manual.pdf Installation and Operating Instructions]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/1/11/Horz_Bandsaw_Tension.pdf Blade Tensioning Guide]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing you will want to do is mark your stock where it should be cut. Once that is done place the material on the saw table and lower the blade to just above the material so you can accurately line the saw blade up with the mark on the material. If you are cutting rectangular stock make sure the longer side is the one on table. This allows more of the blade teeth to engage the material and lowers the stress on the blade as a result. To lower the blade, hold the handle on the idler wheel end of the saw with one hand and then open the hydraulic feed control by twisting the knob counterclockwise with the other hand. Lower the bade to just above the material and the close the feed control to hold the blade in place. Line up the your mark and saw blade but don't forget about the blade kerf if you are concerned about accuracy. Clamp the material in place with the vice and apply some oil to the cut area. You are now ready to cut. Press the green button to turn on the saw and then open the feed control slightly, causing the blade to slowly drop and perform the cut. The saw will automatically turn of when the cut is complete, but if you need to stop the saw during the cut press the red emergency stop button. Reset the space when you are done. All shavings should be cleaned up and disposed of properly. Put any extra stock back in its respective spot. When finished, make sure the blade arm is laying completely down so that the auto shutoff switch is engaged and no one can fit anything under the blade without raising the arm. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cut a 1” long piece of ½” round stock.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the Horizontal Bandsaw in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_wj7P3fYk0&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
* Never place your hand below the blade. If, for some reason, the blade were to drop, significant injury could occur. &lt;br /&gt;
* Take care when loading stock that it is clamped firmly and set up so that as many of the teeth can be in contact with the material as possible. For rectangular stock this would mean placing the long side parallel with the floor. Doing these things will protect the blade from damage and reduce the chance of the material coming loose during a cut. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30475 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* Not cutting smoothly - Slow the drop rate. If this issue persists ask the shop supervisor to wax the blade and remove any metal chips clogging the teeth. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The most important maintenance procedure for the Horizontal Bandsaw  is to keep it clean by vacuuming up any metal chips created by a cut. Also, the Bandsaw should be waxed every couple of cuts or if the Bandsaw is not cutting smoothly. If the Bandsaw continues to kick, you may unplug the machine and use pliers to remove metal chunks stuck to the blade&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean up Metal Chips &lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Wax the Blade &lt;br /&gt;
|As needed &lt;br /&gt;
|Shop Supervisor&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Horizontal_Bandsaw&amp;diff=5461</id>
		<title>Horizontal Bandsaw</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=Horizontal_Bandsaw&amp;diff=5461"/>
		<updated>2019-08-12T23:49:08Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: /* User Manual */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{#set:&lt;br /&gt;
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 |Has make=Ellis&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has model=1600&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has name={{PAGENAME}}&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is located in facility= Machine Shop&lt;br /&gt;
 |Is used in domain=Metal&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has function=Horizontal Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has url=http://www.ellissaw.com/mitre-band-saw-overview/1600-mitre-band-saw/&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icon=File:horizontal_bandsaw_icon.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has icondesc=Horizontal Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has iconwname=File:horizontal_bandsaw_icon_name.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has image=File:Ellis1600_Horizontal Bandsaw.jpg&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has imagedesc=Ellis Model 1600 Horizontal Bandsaw&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has description=Used to cut large stock&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has QR code=File:Horizontal Bandsaw QR code.png&lt;br /&gt;
 |Has ace=Noah Bloomquist; nbloomquist17@georgefox.edu&lt;br /&gt;
}}&lt;br /&gt;
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&lt;br /&gt;
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Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
__TOC__&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Description==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A horizontal band saw is a type of band saw where the piece stays stationary and the cutting head is a band saw arranged horizontally that cuts into the part by gravity assist. Our horizontal bandsaw in the shop is the [http://www.ellissaw.com/mitre-band-saw-overview/1600-mitre-band-saw Ellis Model 1600]. &amp;lt;span style=&amp;quot;color:black&amp;quot;&amp;gt;It can be used to rough cut metal or plastic (NO WOOD) stock to length. It has a cutting capacity of 10&amp;quot; Round and 10&amp;quot; by 8&amp;quot; rectangle at 90 degrees or 6-7/8&amp;quot; round and 8&amp;quot; by 6&amp;quot; rectangle when rotated to 45 degrees.&amp;lt;/span&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Documentation==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Terminology====&lt;br /&gt;
* Kerf - The slit made by cutting with a saw. This is important to keep in mind when positioning the cut or the final cut may end up shorter than desired. &lt;br /&gt;
* Horizontal Bandsaw Components:  [[File:Horizontal Bandsaw Terms.png|none|thumb|814x814px]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== User Manual ====&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Media:Ellis_1600_Safety.pdf|Ellis 1600 Safety PDF]]&lt;br /&gt;
* [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/b/b6/Ellis_1600_Manual.pdf Installation and Operating Instructions]&lt;br /&gt;
* Blade Tensioning Guide&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Training==&lt;br /&gt;
====Overview====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The first thing you will want to do is mark your stock where it should be cut. Once that is done place the material on the saw table and lower the blade to just above the material so you can accurately line the saw blade up with the mark on the material. If you are cutting rectangular stock make sure the longer side is the one on table. This allows more of the blade teeth to engage the material and lowers the stress on the blade as a result. To lower the blade, hold the handle on the idler wheel end of the saw with one hand and then open the hydraulic feed control by twisting the knob counterclockwise with the other hand. Lower the bade to just above the material and the close the feed control to hold the blade in place. Line up the your mark and saw blade but don't forget about the blade kerf if you are concerned about accuracy. Clamp the material in place with the vice and apply some oil to the cut area. You are now ready to cut. Press the green button to turn on the saw and then open the feed control slightly, causing the blade to slowly drop and perform the cut. The saw will automatically turn of when the cut is complete, but if you need to stop the saw during the cut press the red emergency stop button. Reset the space when you are done. All shavings should be cleaned up and disposed of properly. Put any extra stock back in its respective spot. When finished, make sure the blade arm is laying completely down so that the auto shutoff switch is engaged and no one can fit anything under the blade without raising the arm. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Demonstration====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cut a 1” long piece of ½” round stock.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====General Procedure====&lt;br /&gt;
This video contains specific information for using the Horizontal Bandsaw in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_wj7P3fYk0&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be}}&lt;br /&gt;
==Safety==&lt;br /&gt;
* Never place your hand below the blade. If, for some reason, the blade were to drop, significant injury could occur. &lt;br /&gt;
* Take care when loading stock that it is clamped firmly and set up so that as many of the teeth can be in contact with the material as possible. For rectangular stock this would mean placing the long side parallel with the floor. Doing these things will protect the blade from damage and reduce the chance of the material coming loose during a cut. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Certification==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30475 Foxtale Quiz]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Troubleshooting==&lt;br /&gt;
* Not cutting smoothly - Slow the drop rate. If this issue persists ask the shop supervisor to wax the blade and remove any metal chips clogging the teeth. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Maintenance==&lt;br /&gt;
====General maintenance====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The most important maintenance procedure for the Horizontal Bandsaw  is to keep it clean by vacuuming up any metal chips created by a cut. Also, the Bandsaw should be waxed every couple of cuts or if the Bandsaw is not cutting smoothly. If the Bandsaw continues to kick, you may unplug the machine and use pliers to remove metal chunks stuck to the blade&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Maintenance Procedure&lt;br /&gt;
!Frequency&lt;br /&gt;
!Done By&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Clean up Metal Chips &lt;br /&gt;
|After each use&lt;br /&gt;
|Student&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Wax the Blade &lt;br /&gt;
|As needed &lt;br /&gt;
|Shop Supervisor&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Horz_Bandsaw_Tension.pdf&amp;diff=5460</id>
		<title>File:Horz Bandsaw Tension.pdf</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://makerhub.georgefox.edu/w/index.php?title=File:Horz_Bandsaw_Tension.pdf&amp;diff=5460"/>
		<updated>2019-08-12T23:46:50Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dhoward16: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dhoward16</name></author>
	</entry>
</feed>