makerhub - User contributions [en]

Pick and Place

2020-03-11T17:45:29Z

Czickefoose: /* Terminology */

{{#set:
|Is equipment=true
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Pick & place icon.png
|Has icondesc=Pick and Place icon
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Pick_&_place.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Pick and Place Machine
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=LPKF
|Has model=Protoplace S
|Has ace=Keola Macloves;kmacloves16@georgefox.edu
}}
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Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

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__TOC__

==Description==

Pick & Place (Protoplace S) is a semi-automatic pick & place system for the professional assembly of Surface Mount Technology (SMT) printed circuit board prototypes and small batch projects. It is capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives, but we typically use it just for placing minuscule components on PCBs.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maV2KG8O29A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
# Micro-Table
## This clamps PCBs as large as 297mm x 420mm (11.8” x 16.5”). Knobs at the front of the micro-table allow for fine adjustments along the X and Y axes, which are ideal for the placement of complex components.
# Manipulator
## The manipulator is what picks & places components. It is also capable of dispensing solder paste, glues, and adhesives with the dispenser attachment, however, we will not use these features. The manipulator can reach everywhere on the micro-table that will be needed for projects, including the turntable. The manipulator uses the vacuum and appropriate needle attachment in order to pick & place components.
# Manipulator Knob
## The knob above the box on the manipulator rotates the nozzle; so it rotates components sucked on the knob.
# Turntable
## The turntable is what houses the components used in the project. The turntable can be controlled using the keyboard and LCD display.
# Micro Camera and Monitor
## The micro camera captures the end of the nozzle so that you can view (on the monitor) an accurate representation of where the component will be placed.
[[File:Pick And Place.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]

[https://www.lpkfusa.com/datasheets/prototyping/ProtoPlace%20S%20Specifications%20'16.pdf Pick and Place Datasheet]

[http://www.tabe.ru/pdf/lpkf_protoplace_manual_(eng).pdf Pick and Place Manual]

==Training==
====Overview====

The Pick and Place organizes and helps place minuscule surface mount components by using a vacuum and a nozzle that is triggered by the amount of pressure applied to the nozzle (pushing down on a component).

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Pick and Place, the Student will have a PCB Prepared by the PCB Printer and follow the instructions in the General Procedure.

====General Procedure====
# Turn on the machine. The switch is located in the back left (if viewed from the front of the machine).
# Ensure that the correct vacuum tip is attached to the manipulator. If the tip is larger than the parts you are trying to pick up, then you need to change out the tip for something smaller. You can change tips for various sized components during the process.
## '''Do not use nozzles too large or the component will get sucked into the machine and the machine will get damaged.'''
# Place all of the parts needed for the project into their own sections on the turntable.
## It would be a good idea to have a separate section for each component for organization purposes (for yourself and others).
## Use a sticky note or labeling system of some sort for different components like resistor values.
# Turn on the monitor that will display the output of the micro camera. This will help you view your part while you are placing it on the pads.
# Clamp your board onto the microtable. You should not be able to move your board when it is secured.
# On the LCD, using the keyboard:
## Place -> auto/manual.
## Manual mode will only turn on the vacuum when sufficient pressure is applied to the nozzle (when you press the nozzle onto a component).
## Auto mode will always have the vacuum enabled.
# Let's assume we are in manual mode for the remainder of this procedure (easier because you can't accidentally pick up components). Move the manipulator to the desired component. Grab the component by pushing the nozzle down onto the surface of the component.
## '''Be sure that the component is not upside down!'''
# Move the manipulator and component to the position that the footprint is located (it doesn’t have to be exact yet). Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Break option on the right of the LCD screen. This locks the manipulator so you cannot move it like you normally do which makes it easy to place your components.
# You can use the fine knobs on the front of the pick and place to make precise movements as well as the camera to assure you are placing it correctly on the pads.
## A higher resolution view can be seen on the monitor that’s output from the micro camera.
# Using the keyboard and LCD screen, hit the Place option. It places the component straight down for you!
# Repeat this process until all components are placed.
# Upon completion, refer to the instructions on the Reflow Oven wiki. The solder has not been solidified yet, so be careful with your board so you do not move components. Remember to select the correct setting: V1 Paste if you are using Voltera's special Ink and Paste, and Sn63Pb37 for prefabricated PCBs.
# '''RESET THE SPACE!''' Remove any notes and clean up any lost components.

==Safety==
There is almost nothing you can do on this device that will hurt you. If you place your hand under the nozzle and then smash down the nozzle, you will hurt yourself. Do not do this for obvious reasons.

However, there are things that can hurt the Pick and Place.
# Be gentle with how you treat the nozzle; press down gently when picking and placing components.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31370 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# There are two monitors above the pick and place machine. You’ll want to have your Altium Schematic on one and the altium PCBDoc opened up so you can follow along as you’re placing and double checking things while you’re going.
# Don’t try to get the component exactly at the location of the pads without the break. It’s quicker if you get it in the general area and use the fine adjustments knob after placing the break.
# Pivot the micro camera to view alignments on both the x and y axes (again, the fine adjustment knobs are used here).
# If your tip is having a hard time keeping the component secure, try a bigger one.
# Be sure to use a smaller nozzle than the component you are trying to place! Failure to do this results in sucking up the component into the nozzle which can clog it and prevent the vacuum from being effectively used.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The Pick and Place has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after use. Clean solder off of nozzle and clean table of loose components.
|Student
|-
|Nozzle Change
|Only when a component has been sucked up into the nozzle.
|Student and Ace
|}

Speedy 300

2020-03-04T19:55:25Z

Czickefoose: minor wording

{{#set:
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|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:laser_cutter_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Laser Engraver Icon
|Has iconwname=File:laser_cutter_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:laser_cutter_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Trotec Speedy 300 Laser Engraver
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Trotec
|Has model=Speedy 300
|Has ace=Zach Cogswell: ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu
}}
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Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The Trotec Speedy 300 laser engraver is used to engrave and cut materials based on specified images and shapes. This is useful for making enclosures out of acrylic, engraving designs into many materials, creating trophies, and cutting any two dimensional shape out of a variety of materials. It also has a rotary attachment which enables cylindrical objects such as drinking glasses and hydro flasks to be engraved with detailed designs.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qF8dHQPy6o}}[[File:Hydrowiki.jpg|thumb|400x400px|none|Example of an engraved Hydroflask. ]]

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Inkscape - The program you will be using to design is Inkscape. It allows you to type in words, edit logos, make your own logos and such to engrave or cut out of your material.
* Job Control - The program that interacts with the laser cutter to perform a cut. Job Control lets you set up/create Material Profiles, change between the HoneyComb Table and the Rotary tool (mostly used for Hydroflasks), and choose a location to cut on your material.

* Focusing tool - Used to focus the laser cutter.

* Stroke - This is the type of line that should be used when cutting.

* Repeat Cut Line - Can be used in JobControl to reproduce the same cut line that was just cut.
* Outline Job - Can be used in JobControl to trace the job that is going to be cut to show where job extends.
* Bitmap - Representation of an image as bits of information (pixels); used to allow logos/stencils to be changed into colors.
* Vector - Representation of an image as shapes, rather than bits; used to allow logos/stencils to be modified as objects.
* Trace Bitmap - Can be used on a bitmap to to turn it into a vector.
* Honeycomb Table - This is the honeycomb shaped metal tray that holds flat material during a cut. It is used for most cut jobs.
* Rotary Tool - When engraving water bottles or glasses, this accessory is used to hold the object in place as well as rotate it while performing a cut.

==== User Manual ====
* [https://www.itee.uq.edu.au/etsg//filething/get/3156/Speedy-300-Manual-EN.pdf User Guide]

==Training==
====Overview====

Performing a cut or engrave with the laser will always begin with Inkscape by opening/importing an image, pdf, DXF, or similar file. If you do not have a file yet then it can also be used to create geometries. Once a file has been brought into Inkscape, it must be adjusted so that job control can distinguish between what should be cut out of the material and what should be engraved. A cut is indicated by a hairline red stroke (in the RGB color scheme) and an engrave is indicated by the color black. After the graphic is prepared, it is transferred to job control using [File] > [Print] and making sure trotec is selected as the device. It will then pop up in the job list on the right hand side of JobControl. At this point the laser cutter should be set up by turning it on, placing the material on the honeycomb table, and then raising the table to focus the laser. The final steps are then to click the USB icon in job control to connect to the laser cutter, drag the job onto the to scale honeycomb table, set the correct material properties, and then click the play button to perform the cut/engrave. When performing an engrave on a cylindrical object, the set up process in Inkscape is the same but there are a few differences in job control and laser cutter itself. Primarily, the honeycomb table must be exchanged for the rotary tool, which must be done while the laser cutter is OFF. The laser cutter should automatically recognize that the rotary is attached. The only change in job control is that the accessory should be changed in the settings from the honeycomb table to the rotary tool.

====Demonstration====

First, import a George Fox logo into Inkscape and set it up so that the logo is an engrave with a cut circle surrounding it. Once this is done, print the job to job control and run the job on a piece of scrap material.

====General Procedure====
[[File:trotec_laser_engraving.mp4|thumb|none|400px|This video shows the complete process of completing an engrave. See below for details on doing this. ]]

# Setting up a Job
## First off, to get your design, just copy an image and paste it into Inkscape or find a pdf version of the file and open it. If you are cutting a part from a Solidworks file it must be saved as a dxf before importing to Inkscape.
## To open a dxf file go to [File] > [Import]. If a dxf file is being used feel free to skip to step 7.
## Measure the size of your material, and set the page in Inkscape to those dimensions. You can alter the dimensions of the page you are putting the image on by selecting [File] > [Document Properties], and even the width (W) and height (H) image itself in the top. If you want to keep the image dimensions consistent, but just scale it down, click the lock button between these dimensions. If you want to make your own design using text, squares, circles, etc, you can find everything you need in the column on the far left of the client.[[File:...gfuLogo.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
## Once you have your design, we need to alter the colors a little bit so the Laser Cutter can understand what you want it to do. It goes like this: a red stroke will cut, and anything that is black will engrave. A stroke is merely an option that outlines the object you select.
##In order to do this, we need to split up the image into different pieces. This is called vectoring, where it will divide the image into different pieces based on shapes and color. Just select the logo, right click, and select Trace Bitmap. You will be given options shown in the picture below. For this application,we want to separate the colors from each other, so we select the Colors option. The number of scans you have selected will define how closely the vector output will replicate the actual photo (the bitmap) or how many colors you want the vector to tape. Since this is a simple logo and we have 3 colors/shades to take, 3 scans will be enough. If the detail is not good enough, try the other options and have some fun. Once this process is finished, the vector will appear directly on top of the original image, so make sure to drag it off and separate the two before beginning.[[File:...traceBitmap.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
## Since there are a few separate parts to this vector, it is possible to break apart these and alter the image however you want. Select the image, right click and go to Ungroup. Now you can mess with each individual part! You can take either of these designs and delete them, essentially they will cut out and engrave the same design. Let's go with the one on the right. [[File:...separateParts.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
## Now we can manipulate the colors. Select the object and go to [Object] > [Fill and Stroke] (usually it will already be open on the right sidebar). You will see Fill, Stroke Paint, and Stroke Style on the top right. Fill changes the color of a piece, Stroke Paint changes the color of a stroke, and Stroke Style changes the thickness and style of a stroke. You will see values for R, G, and B, where all colors can be made using these. When each color has a 0 next to it, it will be fully black. When the red has a 255 next to it and the others have 0, it will be fully red. Make sure you check these bit values before continuing, since the machine is set to cutting material ONLY when it sees 255, 0, 0, and it will engrave material ONLY when it sees 0, 0, 0. Everything else, make it white, which is 255, 255, 255. Be sure to make each a Flat Color so that the color is constant throughout the entire object.[[File:...Stroke.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
## Once you have finished your design, it’s time to send it to the Laser Cutter! Hit print, make sure it is sending to Trotec Engraver but do not click [OK] yet.
## Select [Preferences] to open the engraver properties. You will want to make sure the [Minimize to Job size] option is NOT selected and that the [Height] - [Width] values match the page size selected in Inkscape. DO NOT have [Enhanced Geometries} selected because it causes the curved parts of your design to be unrecognized once it is uploaded to the Job Control.[[File:...printing.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
## Then you can save these settings by selecting the button that shows the JC logo near the bottom of the Printing Preferences.
## Select Print to send the design to Job Control.
# Setting up the Laser Cutter
## Turn on the machine using the power switch located on the back of the machine in the left corner. The machine will go through a startup procedure where the cutting bed lowers and the laser travels to its home position. Note that the lid must be closed for the startup procedure to begin and there will be some beeping coming from the machine which is normal.
## Place your material onto the honeycomb table, preferably in the upper left corner.
## Now it’s time to focus the laser onto your material. Begin by moving the laser head over the middle of your material; then place the focusing tool on the laser head and slowly raise the table until the the focusing tool falls off. Raise the bed extra slow when reaching the focusing tool so the bed can be stopped the moment the tool falls off. Reference the images below for proper focusing tool placement and laser head controls.[[File:Laser Focus Tool.png|none|thumb|404x404px| Proper placement of the focusing tool. ]][[File:Laser Controls.png|none|thumb|296x296px| Laser control pad. (1) Raise and lower the bed. (2) Move the laser head (5) Air assist. Make sure it is always on to vent fumes properly. ]]
## Remove the focusing tool and return it to its home.
## Press the USB icon found in the bottom right corner of job control to connect to the laser cutter. The laser should beep a few times and then a the background of job control will change to a honeycomb pattern to represent the actual honeycomb table. Also, the USB icon will change to a play icon.
# Cutting with Job Control
## After you send your design to Job Control it will let you name your design and it will store it in a window on the right. If you do not see your design, be sure to select [See All] at the bottom of that window. This lets you see files ALL dpi types, rather than just a specific dpi type.
## Double click/drag your design into the middle area and lock the top left corner of the design into the bottom right of the cursor.
## Then select your material at the top left.You can check the print preview by double clicking the box showing your preview in the bottom right.[[File:Mitch5.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## If the cursor is not already visible, be sure that the laser cutter is connected to Job Control via the USB symbol in the bottom right. You can click the Update in the bottom left to see the duration of the job, and now you are ready to click the Play button in the bottom right. For bigger jobs, the Laser Cutter will take a little bit of time to read the design. If it does not start immediately, don’t be scared. Just be supportive and it will begin shortly. If it does not start at all, ask for help from a worker.
## Once the job starts, stay with it. Be sure it is actually engraving/cutting the material. If it is not doing what it should be, stop it by lifting the lid and consult the supervisor for assistance.[[File:Mitch6.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## After the job is completed reset the space by cleaning out any scrap materials from the bed and deleting the job from job control and Inkscape.
# Cutting with the Rotary Tool
## The Rotary Tool lets you cut and engrave cylindrical objects, the most popular of these being Hydroflasks. This part applies after you have already sent the file from CoreLDRAW to the Laser Cutter.
## Turn OFF the machine, remove the honeycomb table, and plug in the rotary tool. The rest of the laser cutter setup is the same as above.
## To start off, go to Settings → Options → Hardware → Accessories. This is where you can switch from the HoneyComb Table to the Rotary Tool and vice versa.
## Enter the diameter of your bottle (using the Calipers in the lab), as it tells the Rotary Tool how fast to turn as it engraves. Do not mess this up, or you will have a stretched/squeezed image. [[File:Rotary 1.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## Once you click OK/apply, the window background will look like the image below.
## Double click/drag the job onto the window. It should automatically flip the image so that it will engrave in the proper orientation even though the bottle is held horizontally. [[File:Rotary2.jpg|thumb|600x600px|none]]
## Next, pick the material Hydroflask → Black Mug for a Hydroflask, or one of the glass profiles if engraving glass, and now you are ready to engrave your thing!
## When you are finished, RESET THE SPACE! Put the Rotary Tool away and replace it with the HoneyComb Table.

==Safety==
* Always make sure the material you are using is safe to use. There is an especially high risk when engraving plastics. Fumes from plastics can be toxic. Make sure you find the specific material you are using and check to see if it produces toxic fumes when burned. Never attempt to engrave PVC as it produces chlorine gas (the stuff they used in WWI).
* Once the laser is focused do not touch the button that raises the bed or the laser will crash into the machine which causes damage to the machine.
* Be careful when moving the laser head when using the rotary tool because it has protruding parts that will harm the laser cutter if a crash occurs.
* Keep an eye on active cuts because fires can be started when cutting wood or acrylic with paper covering.
==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31280 Foxtale Course]

==Frequent Issues==
'''First of all, check your export settings'''
* There are multiple combinations of settings that will work for export; which means that depending on who was using the machine last, settings may be different. These are the settings I (the ace) have found to work most consistantly: Set your Inkscape document to square by going to File > Document Properties (or press Ctl+Shift+D) and set both the Height and Width fields to the same value, bigger than your shape. Why this is an issue is yet unknown, Inkscape just doesn’t like exporting non-square documents with the other settings to follow. Print the document with File > Print or Ctl+P. Click preferences and check both “Take From Application” and “Minimize to Jobsize.” These settings tell the program to assume the canvas is the same size as Inkscape and then crop to the size of your print. Also verify “image mode” is set to “color.” These settings will fix most common issues.
'''Cuts are not being made'''
* Some export settings may be incorrect. Verify that your settings are set to those described above. These settings will fix most issues of lines not cutting.
* Verify that all stokes are set to red with a stroke width between 1pt and .25pt (.25pt recommended)
* Verify that your print is entirely within the canvas of Inkscape.
* In Preferences, within Print options, verify “image mode” is set to “color.” Otherwise, your red stokes will not be read as color, and not be seen by the laser cutter.
'''The cuts did not go all the way through the material'''
* Are you using the correct material profile? If not, rest the job (described below) and repeat the cut with the correct material profile. If it appears that the cut went partway through the material you may want to use a setting that is less powerful than your material would normally use (again, described below)
* You should always place your material in a corner. This way, if the cuts do not go all the way through you can reposition it easily. DO NOT MOVE THE JOB in JobControl! If you put the material in a corner, should be able to place the material back where it was, and then reset the job in JobControl by right clicking on the job in JobControl and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Next, run the cut again on the smallest thickness setting for your material. For example, if you are cutting 1/4 inch acrylic and it does not cut all the way through, repeat the cut with the 1/8 inch acrylic setting.
* If you are using the correct material profile for your material and cuts are not going all the way through, please email me and let me know so that I can take a look and fix the settings. ZCogswell18@georgefox.edu
'''The laser went really fast leaving a sort of light engrave rather than a cut'''
* You did not select the correct material, and the job ran with the ‘standard’ setting. DO NOT MOVE THE MATERIAL! You can reset the job by right clicking on the job in Job Control and selecting the reset job option, or by pressing Ctl+R. Then, select the correct material in the upper left dropdown menu and run the job again. This way you do not need to reposition the material or job, which you will almost never do perfectly.
'''The laser repeated the cut multiple times'''
* Some material profiles, such as half-inch, acrylic are set to repeat the cut line multiple times, as to get a cleaner product. If the cuts look good, this is normal.
* Are you importing from SolidWorks? For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.
'''The acrylic is melted or blackened'''
* Verify that you are using the correct material profile. If you are, for example, cutting 1/4 acrylic with the 1/2 setting, the acrylic will be melted and not give clean cuts.
* Are you importing from SolidWorks? As mentioned above, “''For some reason, SolidWorks likes to have duplicate lines quite often. In Inkscape, click on the cut that was repeated and drag to move it. If you move the line and another line is underneath, you need to delete all duplicates in the file. Often if you have a thin stoke (.25pt) and zoom out, the duplicate lines will be visually darker, allowing you to identify and delete them.”''
'''Cuts are not clean'''
* Is the machine focused properly for your material? If you’re not sure, or even if you are (you may have bumped the bed control buttons accidentally) refocus it.
* Check the lens for dust because this can interfere with the laser. If it is dirty, see the maintenance section on how to clean it.
'''The material is being cut in unintended places'''
* Check your Inkscape file and make sure there are no red stokes in places you did not want
* Make sure there are no other jobs on the work area (grey rectangles in the honeycomb area of JobControl). If there are, drag them back into the list on the right side or delete them

*

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep the laser cutter running and cutting smoothly, the mirror and lens should be periodically cleaned. This is on top of the general cleaning that should be done to keep the machine dust and scrap free. There is also filters in the exhaust system that must be changed once the activated carbon has been used up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General cleaning
|As needed after a cut
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean the Mirror
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Clean the Lens
|As needed
|Volunteer
|
|-
|4
|Change Filters
|When filter usage reaches 100%
|Ace
|
|}
# The honeycomb should be removed and the metal bed itself should be should be swept/cleaned more or less daily. Cleaners are available to help in this process. Green is general cleaning use this for the bed and metal surfaces. Blue is glass cleaner, use this for the plexiglass surfaces. The front door of the Speedy 300 may be removed using the spring loaded pin on the right to remove cut pieces stuck in the door. The air vents at the rear of the machine should be kept clean of debris. Clean in a manner similar to the bed.
# The lense, mirror, and cone should be inspected daily or more often as needed, especially after wood or other “dusty”/”smokey” materials are cut. The lense will need cleaning when particles are visible on the surface (hold up to light if need be). The lense may be removed using the threaded nut below the lense (see photo). The lense should be cleaned with the lense paper and cleaner available in the kit (lasercutter drawer) on both sides. Put some cleaner on the lense and gently rub the paper over the surface of the lense. The cone itself threads into the assembly below the lense nut. The cone may be cleaned with a paper towel and water or another cleaning agent. The mirror should be inspected and cleaned in the same manner as the lense.
# See above.
# The air filter to the right of the Speedy 300 will occasionally need maintenance. The most common issue is a full pre-filter. This will be indicated on the filter itself by poor airflow/suction. When replacing this, use a face mask and gloves (close the lab when doing this). Open the top of the air filter with the large 10mm hex wrench in the kit. Remove the prefilter and place it in a bag for disposal. Insert a new prefilter and close the lid. Pre-filters are used to increase the lifespan of other, harder to replace and more expensive filters in the system. Less often, other filters will need replacing. These include the larger box filter, additional pre-filter-type mat filters, and activated carbon. This should not need to happen as often. Follow the above procedure for pre-filter and the [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJkCgAVbAEU&feature=youtu.be video] to replace the full filter setup. Be careful not to spill activate carbon if doing a full replacement, it is difficult to clean up.

Vinyl Printer+Cutter

2020-02-12T19:31:56Z

Czickefoose:

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|Is used in domain=Vinyl
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File: Vinyl_cutter_printerIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Vinyl Printer
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:roland-bn-20.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Roland BN-20 Vinyl Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Roland
|Has model=BN-20
|Has ace=Moises Mañon;mmanon16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
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Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

Vinyl Printing is the process of applying ink to vinyl sheets to produce graphics using a conventional inkjet printing method with solvent based inks. This is useful for making images into stickers, creating t-shirt graphics, and any task where the appearance of vinyl needs to be changed. Printers similar to this are standard in small scale custom clothing companies due to how easy it is to take a graphic from Adobe Illustrator to a piece of vinyl. The BN-20 packs everything into one, powerful, profit-producing package. With award-winning eco-solvent inks including metallic and white options, a range of material compatibility and integrated contour cutting, it is easily the most versatile print device in its class. The BN-20 is perfect for creating t-shirt graphics, poster prints, stickers and decals – all from the comfort of your desktop.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6J1yLQyGNE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Graphic - The image, logo, lettering or similar design that is being printed.
* Adobe Illustrator - The software used to set up graphics to be printed.
* Weeding - Removing the excess vinyl material with the tools found in the drawer below the computer.
* Versawoks - The software that interacts with the printer to perform a print.
* Vector images - An image constructed with mathematical formulas which makes it easy to resize and perform other edits.
* Raster images - An image constructed with pixels which means they cannot be resized without a change in resolution.
* See below for specific machine terminology.
* [[File:Vinyl Printer Terms.png|none|thumb|866x866px]]

==== [http://support.rolanddga.com/Docs/Documents/departments/Technical%20Services/Manuals%20and%20Guides/BN-20_USE_EN_R2.pdf User Manual] ====
This user manual does a good job of visually showing the details of operating the printer.

==Training==
====Overview====

Almost any file type can be used as a graphic when using the vinyl printer but they all must be brought into Illustrator or Inkscape to add a cut line. Note that a vector file such as a .pdf will work the best. The cut line tells the printer to cut out the image that is being printed so it can be weeded properly before it is applied. There are many ways to create a cut line and it is up to the user to determine which process will be the easiest for their graphic. Once a cut line has been created, the file is saved as an .eps and then opened in Versaworks to finalize any print settings before performing the print. After the print is completed it should be left to dry for 20 minutes before being applied to another object.

====Demonstration====
Print out and weed a graphic of your choice. If you are indecisive use a George Fox logo from the [https://www.georgefox.edu/offices/communications/creative_srv/logos/index.html website].

====General Procedure====

Loading Material:
# The vinyl printer is capable of printing on any type or size of vinyl but matte vinyls will provide the best results. Sticker vinyls can be found on the vinyl cutter or in the cabinet under the computer while heat transfer vinyls can be found in the vinyl printer or in the cabinet to the right of the printer. Scrap pieces can be found in the bin next to the computer and are loaded into the printer just like a roll is.
# Press the secondary power button to turn on the printer.
# The loading process always begins by pushing the loading lever backwards. This opens the media clamps so the vinyl can be slid through the printer.
# The media guides are critical to keeping the vinyl in place while printing and must be adjusted to fit the width of the vinyl. Do so by sliding the left media guide to the edge of the vinyl piece. When doing this make sure the pinch roller is above a grit roller or the printer will NOT work. You may have to play with the piece orientation or width to make this possible.
# Feed the vinyl through the printer from the back of machine so that it passes under the media clamps. The purpose of the media clamps is to keep the edges of the vinyl from interfering with the print head so this is an important piece to remember. Feel free to reference the image below. [[File:Vinyl Clamps.png|none|thumb|463x463px]]
# Finish the loading process by pulling the loading lever forward and making sure the door is closed. If everything is done correctly the printer will move around the material a bit and then sit quietly. If there is beeping then something is not set up correctly.

Preparing Graphics:

First, it is important to understand the differences between a vector and a raster when setting up graphics to be printed. Raster images use many colored pixels or individual building blocks to form a complete image. JPEGs, GIFs and PNGs are common raster image types. Almost all of the photos found on the web and in print catalogs are raster images. Because raster images are constructed using a fixed number of colored pixels, they can’t be dramatically resized without compromising their resolution. When stretched to fit a space they weren’t designed to fill, their pixels become visibly grainy and the image distorts. This is why altered photos may appear pixilated or low resolution. Further, because a raster image is composed of many tiny pieces it is difficult to distinguish one object from another within the image. Vector images, alternatively, allow for more flexibility. Constructed using mathematical formulas rather than individual colored blocks, vector file types such as SVG, EPS, AI and PDF* ['''why the "*" on PDF.?'''] are excellent for creating graphics that frequently require resizing. Also, each object within a vector file is assigned to a distinct layer within Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape which means an object can be moved, resized, and recolored without affecting the rest of the image. Having a graphic in vector format can be helpful because it is easy to remove the vinyl background from the graphic by adding a cut line around the object.

For Adobe Illustrator:
# Open the graphic in Illustrator 2017 and perform any desired editing. Most of the time nothing will need to be changed with the exception of converting a raster to a vector in order to add a cut line around a specific part of the graphic. To do this:
#*To import a normal picture into Adobe Illustrator, do [File] > [Place] and then click and drag to the desired size.The graphic can then be converted to vectors by clicking [Object] >[Flatten Transparency].
#*Next, click on the image to bring up several options at the top of the screen and select the [Trace] function. When doing this make sure to select the [Expand] option. This will break the image up into components which can be edited individually.
#*If you want to remove a part of a graphic, you would select the section you want to remove in the layers tab and then hit the trash can icon.
#*Note that this process works well for simple images with few colors. If the image is super complicated it will lose a lot of detail and still be difficult to work with because of the many layers that are created.
# In essence, a cut line is a 0.25 pt line (called a stroke in Illustrator) that is correctly colored and labeled so Versaworks can read it properly. The stroke can be added around specific layers (great for logos), or around the entire graphic (better for images). The advantage of adding a stroke around each layer is that it is possible to completely weed out vinyl between two parts of an image instead of leaving a piece of uncolored vinyl. For details on adding the cut line follow the steps below.
#* Select the entire graphic and add a 0.25 stroke to the graphic. The [Stroke] option can be found in the toolbar at the top of the screen.
#* Click on the color options to the left of the [Stroke] option and then click on [New Swatch] on the bottom edge of the box. A window will open up.
#* Name the new swatch [CutContour]. Make sure to use the exact capitalization or it will not work properly.
#* Change the color type from [Process Color] to [Spot Color]
#* Make sure that the color system is set to CMYK
#* Drag the magenta bar (M) all the way up to 100 and make sure the other sliders are at 0.
#* Hit okay. At this point there should be a bright pink line surrounding the graphic and it is ready to be printed.
#Now that the graphic is ready, save it as an Adobe EPS file (.EPS) so it will be able to be printed in Versaworks.
For Inkscape:
# Open or import your graphic and perform any desired edits. To create the cut line you will need to have a vector object so that a stroke can be added. If your graphic is already a vector format great, but if it is not there are two options.
#* First you can draw a shape around the graphic and use that as the cut line. This option works well for high quality images because there is no compromise in image detail. The downside is that it is difficult to cut out precise shapes from the graphic because it is difficult to get shapes to match up correctly.
#* The second option is to convert the graphic to a vector format using a bitmap. Do this by clicking [Path] > [Trace Bitmap] and then pressing [Okay]. There are several different options in the bitmap menu that you can experiment with to find the best results. Generally, the color option works the best. Finish the process by right clicking and selecting the [ungroup] option so that each piece of the graphic can be edited.
# Create the cut line. Do this by selecting the shape that you would like to cut out, right clicking, and then selecting [Fill and Stroke]. Then add a stroke of any width (0.25 pt works well) and any color. Ideally this would be a spot color and named CutContour just like Illustrator but Inkscape does not have the same options. The downside of using a normal stroke is that the cut settings in Versaworks must be adjusted to treat the stroke as a cut line. This can be an issue if you have several adjacent shapes creating a graphic but you only want to cut around the outside of the objects. To prevent this, select the group of objects you want to cut around, make sure there are no strokes around them, and copy/paste a new copy of them next to the old ones. Select the copy and then go to [Path] > [Union]. This will combine the group of objects into one shape with a continuous outline that will be cut out, but notice that the new singular object will be one color. Add a stroke to the new object and make sure to turn off the fill, then use the page coordinates to place the new object in the same place as the original group. You should be able to see the stroke surrounding your original object; this will be your cut line.
# Save the file as a .EPS to be imported into Versaworks
# In Versaworks, click on the setting symbol next to job queue A or B.
# Click the scissor icon on the left side of the settings window and check the [Cut all paths] option. This will treat the stroke as a cut line as it is qualified as a path.
Printing and Cutting:
# Make sure the material is loaded properly.
# Open up Roland Versaworks. This can be found on the desktop and is where the printing is done from.
# Open the .eps file of the desired graphic. There are two different job queues that it can be put into but it doesn't matter which one is used if you are only printing one job. Note: The graphic will appear to be a low quality image in the preview window but this is just how the software operates.
# Double click on the graphic to open a high definition preview of the image to check that everything is working properly. Sometimes the colors may not carry over properly so make sure they look good. If something looks off then there are some color settings that can be changed when saving the EPS file. Mainly, make sure that the cut line is indicated by a moving, dashed, red line surrounding image.
# You might want to change the orientation or other parameters before starting the print; to do this go to [Job] > [Job Settings].
# Finally, right click on the desired file name in the job queue and hit print.
# After the cut is finished turn off the machine with the secondary power button but make sure to leave the main power switch on to prevent damage and wait 20 minutes before interacting with the graphic.

Preparing for Transfers:

Depending on the type of vinyl and the application it is being used for you will have different procedures for transferring the vinyl. When working with the heat transfer vinyl, used for making shirts and such, there are two main ways to do this. First, you can print the mirror of the graphic so that no transfer paper is needed. Second, you can print it normally and then use clear transfer paper to hold everything in place during application. This second option is also used for the standard sticker vinyl and can be done by performing the following steps:
# Use the weeding kit to remove all unwanted sections of the graphic.
#* Tweezers are used to pinch and pull up unwanted sections.
#* The rounded dental tools are used to hold down wanted sections to prevent them being peeled off with unwanted sections.
# If necessary, cut the graphic off from any excess material.
# Use scissors to cut out a piece of clear transfer paper slightly larger than your cut-out graphic.
# Position it sticky side down over your graphic and use a squeegee to apply it the the graphic.
#* This is done starting in the center of the graphic, and smoothed with the squeegee from the center out.
# Once it is applied, flip the layers over and peel the backing of the vinyl material from the transfer paper.
#* Peel at the greatest angle possible, aim for parallel to the transfer paper so that none of the vinyl is pulled off.
# The graphic is then ready to be transferred onto the desired material.

==Safety==
* Never turn off the main power supply. The printer must routinely empty the print head to prevent it from clogging and it cannot do so without power.
* The printer will automatically pause if the front door is opened and the back is open. Keep hands and clothing away from the back of the printer to prevent pinching and tangling.
* Sometimes vinyl scraps can be oddly shaped and can get wrinkled up when traveling through the media guides. Make sure the piece slides through easily before printing so this does not cause issues.
* It is recommended that the machine get used about once a week to prevent issues such as nozzle clogging.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31424 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
* The most common issue is the printer beeping when trying to load a piece of material. To fix this, make sure the pinch roller is positioned above a grit roller by finding a new piece of vinyl or rotating/cutting down the current piece.
* If there are globs, spots, or streaks of ink occurring during the printing process then it is time to manually clean the print head (see maintenance).
* There may be issues with the vinyl being difficult to weed due to pieces sticking together. The heat transfer vinyl is more difficult to weed in general so some of this may be expected but one thing that will help is to increase the cutting force before printing. By default it is set to 50 gf but feel free to increase it if weeding is excessively difficult.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Like any printer, this machine will periodically need to have its ink replaced. Additionally there are other tasks that should be completed to keep the printer fully functional.These include; keeping equipment free of dirt and grime, both manually and automatically maintaining the print head, and replacing cutting blades and print head wipers.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|Clean Print Area
|As needed
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change Ink
|When the low ink warning appears on the computer
|Ace
|
|-
|3
|Replace the Waste Cartridge
|Once the full cartridge warning appears on the computer
|Ace
|
|-
|4
|Medium Print Head Cleaning
|Once there is nozzle clogging, ink spots, or dragged dirt
|Ace
|
|-
|5
|Manual Print Head Cleaning
|If the medium cleaning does not solve the issues
|Ace
|
|-
|6
|Replace Felt Wiper
|When the replace wiper warning appears
|Ace
|
|-
|7
|Replace Blade
|When cut quality has decreased
|Ace
|
|}
# Wipe any dust off the machine with a paper towel and the areas shown below. [[File:Printer cleaning.png|none|thumb|594x594px]]
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
# Should be completed if prints show signs similar to the image below; see user manual for procedure specifics.[[File:Vinyl printer errors.png|none|thumb|657x657px]]
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
# See user manual for procedure specifics.
# See user manual for procedure specifics.

Markforged 3D Printer

2019-12-11T19:48:12Z

Czickefoose:

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Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Mark Two is a desktop professional 3D printer capable of reinforcing parts with composite fiber, affording them durability and strength. It can print in a range of materials, including Nylon, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, and Kevlar.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o02D94B4y8&feature=youtu.be&t=26}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
Inlay - embedding pieces of a different material into another, in this case embedding carbon fiber or another

Fiber - A non-plastic material which in this case comes in a strand/spool and is inlayed into the base plastic

Composite Materials - material made from two or more constituent materials with significantly different physical or chemical properties that, when combined, produce a material with characteristics different from the individual

Dry Box - dry box is a storage container in which the interior is kept at a low level of humidity, in this case in order to prevent the material from being damaged

Eiger - Software used to set up prints on the Mark Two, accessible from most browsers (i.e. Chrome). Account-based, requires an account to use.

Purge - Rapid printing of excess material which has been sitting in the machine lines for a long period of time. This helps ensure a print will be of acceptable quality by removing any potentially humidity compromised material from the lines

Onyx - Markforged prefered primary printing material. It is a vinyl base with chopped carbon fiber in the filament.

[https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/mark-two Product Information from 3D Hubs]

[https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two User Guide]

[https://www.rdmag.com/article/2018/10/understanding-role-carbon-fiber-3d-printing Brief on Carbon Fiber Printing]

==Training==
====Overview====

The Mark II is a [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing|FDM Printer.]] See the main page for more background on the Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) process. What sets the Mark II apart is its ability to inlay various materials in the print using a second nozzle. These materials include carbon fiber, fiberglass, and kevlar. These smaller materials are located on the second, smaller spool in the rear of the build space. The inlaying of these materials can be customized in Eiger (the printing software for the Markforged). The main materials for the printer are nylon and onyx, this material is contained in the dry box (black box behind the printer) in order to limit moisture contamination. Don't open this unless you need to change the material. Nylon is a typical plastic filament, which provides a clean finish and some flexibility. Onyx is nylon with chopped carbon fiber. This provides more strength and a little less flexibility.

Prints on the Markforged must be started by a manager, as the software is account based.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete understanding of the Mark II, student will perform the setup and shut down procedures for printing a Coiler Winder.

====General Procedure====
# Software
## The Mark II utilizes cloud-based print software Eiger. This means that the software can be accessed from any browser, but an account is required to do so. As such, prints will need to be started by management.
## After login, the main screen returns to library. From this page, you can view and modify previous prints for reprinting or import a new STL for printing.
## Once imported or selected, print material may be selected (Onyx in this case) reinforcement type may be selected and orientation may be edited in the pane on the right. Clicking a part face will orient that face to the build plate. Reinforcement and material settings may be edited with drop-down menus (these are generally best done in the internal view). Brims and support may be toggled on or off from the Part Settings drop-down menu. All these options are available from part view.
## From internal view, density (number of layers of carbon fiber) may be viewed and edited using the slider at the bottom of the page (Blue is carbon fiber, White is main material).
## Material costs and totals may be viewed in the upper left of the part screen. It's worth noting the dramatic change in cost with addition of Carbon Fiber inlay.
## All Mark II prints should be okay-ed with Justin Johnson (the shop supervisor) before being started. Once setup is completed and the printer is on, prints are sent to the printer via the "Print" option. Generally, select the option to start the print from the machine, rather than automatically.
# Printer Setup
## The printer may be turned on with a switch on the rear of the machine. The machine will boot up and may need to update, let it complete this process.
## Before starting the print, glue needs to be applied to the build plate. Simply lift the build plate off the mount and apply the glue stick (found in the Markforged drawer/box) to the area where the print is located in the software (be sure to account for extra width due to the brim), the back of the plate where the machine will purge (print excess material which has been sitting in the lines and exposed to air), and the corner where the purge tower is located in the image below. [[File:Mark II Build Plate.jpg|thumb|A Mark II build plate with purge tower and purge line.|none]]
## Place the plate back on the mount. The Mark II is ready to print!
# Printer Shutdown
## Upon completion of the part, select clear bed on the touchscreen and remove the build plate from the mount. The purge line and tower should be easily removable by hand.
## For the part itself, take the putty knife found in the Markforged drawer/box and carefully remove the part. This may take quite a bit of force to accomplish. Make sure the blade of the putty knife and your hand will never come into contact if you slip (i.e.: brace the plate on the table and push the knife away from you along the plate). Work the knife along the perimeter of the part's attachment to the build plate and avoid prying with the knife when possible. [[File:Removing Parts from Mark II Build Plate.jpg|thumb|Removing parts from the Mark II build plate.|none]]
## After the part is removed, wash the plate with warm water only. When the plate is clean, dry it with a paper towel and place it back on the mounts.
## The plate is ceramic, avoid dropping it. The plate will absorb oil, it is normal to see fingerprints, etc. on the plate.

==Safety==
# Please take care when removing parts from the plate so as to NOT CUT YOURSELF with the putty knife. FDM printers use heating of material to form a 3D model, like a hot glue gun. As such, the extruder head of the printer will be warm. DO NOT TOUCH THE EXTRUDER when it is hot. Doing so will result in burns.
# Although this should be a non-issue, fiber strands are fairly thin and sharp. DON’T IMPALE YOURSELF.
# The top of the printer may be opened for maintenance and inspection. This leaves the gantry with the print head on it exposed. DO NOT PUT YOUR HAND IN THE MOVING MACHINERY. Doing so may result in pinching, crushing, cutting, “ouch”-ing, crying, and other unpleasant “-ings”.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31285 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
See the the [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two Support Page] for troubleshooting guides.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

All maintenance will be performed by the Ace of the Mark II or managers. Specific maintenance tasks are listed below.
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Changing Materials
|When needed, Use the key located in ask managers or Justin to unlock the dry box

Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/208342553-Unload-Plastic Unload Plastic] instructions to remove what is left of current primary material.

Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000403824-Set-Up-and-Load-Plastic Set Up and Load Plastic] instructions to insert new primary material.

Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000543824-Unload-Fiber Unload Fiber] instructions to remove what is left of current inlay material.

Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/208198473-Set-Up-and-Load-Fiber Set Up and Load Fiber] instructions to insert new primary material.
|Ace or Managers
|-
|Calibration and Setup
|Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/207896386-Level-the-Print-Bed Level the Print Bed] instructions to level the print bed and set the correct nozzle heights.
|Ace or managers
|-
|Additional Calibration and Maintenance
|See the [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two Support Page] for additional maintenance and operation guides.
|Ace or managers
|}
<references />

Markforged 3D Printer

2019-12-11T19:41:23Z

Czickefoose:

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Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Mark Two is a desktop professional 3D printer capable of reinforcing parts with composite fiber, affording them durability and strength. It can print in a range of materials, including Nylon, Carbon Fiber, Fiberglass, and Kevlar.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o02D94B4y8&feature=youtu.be&t=26}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
Inlay - embedding pieces of a different material into another, in this case embedding carbon fiber or another

Fiber - A non-plastic material which in this case comes in a strand/spool and is inlayed into the base plastic

Composite Materials - material made from two or more constituent materials with significantly different physical or chemical properties that, when combined, produce a material with characteristics different from the individual

Dry Box - dry box is a storage container in which the interior is kept at a low level of humidity, in this case in order to prevent the material from being damaged

Eiger - Software used to set up prints on the Mark Two, accessible from most browsers (i.e. Chrome). Account-based, requires an account to use.

Purge - Rapid printing of excess material which has been sitting in the machine lines for a long period of time. This helps ensure a print will be of acceptable quality by removing any potentially humidity compromised material from the lines

Onyx - Markforged prefered primary printing material. It is a vinyl base with chopped carbon fiber in the filament.

[https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/mark-two Product Information from 3D Hubs]

[https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two User Guide]

[https://www.rdmag.com/article/2018/10/understanding-role-carbon-fiber-3d-printing Brief on Carbon Fiber Printing]

==Training==
====Overview====

The Mark II is a [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing|FDM Printer.]] See the main page for more background on the Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM) process. What sets the Mark II apart is its ability to inlay various materials in the print using a second nozzle. These materials include carbon fiber, fiberglass, and kevlar. These smaller materials are located on the second, smaller spool in the rear of the build space. The inlaying of these materials can be customized in Eiger (the printing software for the Markforged). The main materials for the printer are nylon and onyx, this material is contained in the dry box (black box behind the printer) in order to limit moisture contamination. Don't open this unless you need to change the material. Nylon is a typical plastic filament, which provides a clean finish and some flexibility. Onyx is nylon with chopped carbon fiber. This provides more strength and a little less flexibility.

Prints on the Markforged must be started by a manager, as the software is account based.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete understanding of the Mark II, student will perform the setup and shut down procedures for printing a Coiler Winder.

====General Procedure====
# Software
## The Mark II utilizes cloud-based print software Eiger. This means that the software can be accessed from any browser, but an account is required to do so. As such, prints will need to be started by management.
## After login, the main screen returns to library. From this page, you can view and modify previous prints for reprinting or import a new STL for printing.
## Once imported or selected, print material may be selected (Onyx in this case) reinforcement type may be selected and orientation may be edited in the pane on the right. Clicking a part face will orient that face to the build plate. Reinforcement and material settings may be edited with drop-down menus (these are generally best done in the internal view). Brims and support may be toggled on or off from the Part Settings drop-down menu. All these options are available from part view.
## From internal view, density (number of layers of carbon fiber) may be viewed and edited using the slider at the bottom of the page (Blue is carbon fiber, White is main material).
## Material costs and totals may be viewed in the upper left of the part screen. It's worth noting the dramatic change in cost with addition of Carbon Fiber inlay.
## All Mark II prints should be okay-ed with Justin Johnson (the shop supervisor) before being started. Once setup is completed and the printer is on, prints are sent to the printer via the "Print" option. Generally, select the option to start the print from the machine, rather than automatically.
# Printer Setup
## The printer may be turned on with a switch on the rear of the machine. The machine will boot up and may need to update, let it complete this process.
## Before starting the print, glue needs to be applied to the build plate. Simply lift the build plate off the mount and apply the glue stick (found in the Markforged drawer/box) to the area where the print is located in the software (be sure to account for extra width due to the brim), the back of the plate where the machine will purge (print excess material which has been sitting in the lines and exposed to air), and the corner where the purge tower is located in the image below. [[File:Mark II Build Plate.jpg|thumb|A Mark II build plate with purge tower and purge line.|none]]
## Place the place back on the mount. The Mark II is ready to print!
# Printer Shutdown
## Upon completion of the part, select clear bed on the touchscreen and remove the build plate from the mount. The purge line and tower should be easily removable by hand.
## For the part itself, take the putty knife found in the Markforged drawer/box and carefully remove the part. This may take quite a bit of force to accomplish. Make sure the blade of the putty knife and your hand will never come into contact if you slip (i.e.: brace the plate on the table and push the knife away from you along the plate). Work the knife along the perimeter of the part's attachment to the build plate and avoid prying with the knife when possible. [[File:Removing Parts from Mark II Build Plate.jpg|thumb|Removing parts from the Mark II build plate.|none]]
## After the part is removed, wash the plate with warm water only. When the plate is clean, dry it with a paper towel and place it back on the mounts.
## The plate is ceramic, avoid dropping it. The plate will absorb oil, it is normal to see fingerprints, etc. on the plate.

==Safety==
# Please take care when removing parts from the plate so as to NOT CUT YOURSELF with the putty knife. FDM printers use heating of material to form a 3D model, like a hot glue gun. As such, the extruder head of the printer will be warm. DO NOT TOUCH THE EXTRUDER when it is hot. Doing so will result in burns.
# Although this should be a non-issue, fiber strands are fairly thin and sharp. DON’T IMPALE YOURSELF.
# The top of the printer may be opened for maintenance and inspection. This leaves the gantry with the print head on it exposed. DO NOT PUT YOUR HAND IN THE MOVING MACHINERY. Doing so may result in pinching, crushing, cutting, “ouch”-ing, crying, and other unpleasant “-ings”.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31285 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
See the the [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two Support Page] for troubleshooting guides.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

All maintenance will be performed by the Ace of the Mark II or managers. Specific maintenance tasks are listed below.
====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Changing Materials
|When needed, Use the key located in ask managers or Justin to unlock the dry box

Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/208342553-Unload-Plastic Unload Plastic] instructions to remove what is left of current primary material.

Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000403824-Set-Up-and-Load-Plastic Set Up and Load Plastic] instructions to insert new primary material.

Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000543824-Unload-Fiber Unload Fiber] instructions to remove what is left of current inlay material.

Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/208198473-Set-Up-and-Load-Fiber Set Up and Load Fiber] instructions to insert new primary material.
|Ace or Managers
|-
|Calibration and Setup
|Follow [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/articles/207896386-Level-the-Print-Bed Level the Print Bed] instructions to level the print bed and set the correct nozzle heights.
|Ace or managers
|-
|Additional Calibration and Maintenance
|See the [https://support.markforged.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000131204-Mark-Two Support Page] for additional maintenance and operation guides.
|Ace or managers
|}
<references />

PCB Printer

2019-12-11T19:25:58Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
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|Is used in domain=Electronics
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|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
|Has ace=
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
[[File:PCB printer icon.png|left|frameless|100x100px]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink:''' ''AqueousSnake''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste:''' ''FuriousAnt''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above.
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37:''' ''ArmoredArmadillo''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits]

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Training==
====Overview====

PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, Voltera will be able to print traces, pads, and bake them all in one location. However, the PCB Lab has a different tool for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# '''Drilling'''
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently. Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# '''Ready the Ink'''
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# '''Software Setup'''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# '''Cleaning the Sensors'''
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly.
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip.This will help clear out any crap that could hurt the sensor. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Mounting the Probe'''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Positioning and Probing'''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# '''Priming the Conductor'''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Calibration'''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# '''Top Layer Print'''
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
##You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.
# '''18658 [what is this?]'''
## The board consists of a button, a 680Ω resistor, and an LED. Attach a fixed 5VDC connection to the + and -, and the LED should illuminate.
==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31369 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|}

PCB Printer

2019-12-11T19:19:41Z

Czickefoose:

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[[File:PCB printer icon.png|left|frameless|100x100px]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink:''' ''AqueousSnake''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste:''' ''FuriousAnt''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above.
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37:''' ''ArmoredArmadillo''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits]

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Training==
====Overview====

PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, Voltera will be able to print traces, pads, and bake them all in one location. However, the PCB Lab has a different tool for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# '''Drilling'''
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently. Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# '''Ready the Ink'''
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# '''Software Setup'''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# '''Cleaning the Sensors'''
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly.
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip.This will help clear out any crap that could hurt the sensor. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Mounting the Probe'''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Positioning and Probing'''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# '''Priming the Conductor'''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Calibration'''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# '''Top Layer Print'''
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with an '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
##You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.
# '''18658'''
## The board consists of a button, a 680Ω resistor, and an LED. Attach a fixed 5VDC connection to the + and -, and the LED should illuminate.
==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31369 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|}

PCB Printer

2019-12-11T19:07:03Z

Czickefoose: Minor formatting

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:PCB_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Voltera Icon
|Has iconwname=File:PCB_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:voltera-vone.png
|Has imagedesc=The Voltera V-One PCB Printer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has model=V-One
|Has group=Circuit Board Design
|Has make=Voltera
|Has ace=
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
[[File:PCB printer icon.png|left|frameless|100x100px]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your Gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink:''' ''AqueousSnake''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste:''' ''FuriousAnt''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above.
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37:''' ''ArmoredArmadillo''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits]

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Training==
====Overview====

PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, Voltera will be able to print traces, pads, and bake them all in one location. However, the PCB Lab has a different tool for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# '''Drilling'''
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently. Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# '''Ready the Ink'''
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# '''Software Setup'''
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# '''Cleaning the Sensors'''
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly.
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip.This will help clear out any crap that could hurt the sensor. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]
# '''Clamping the Substrate'''
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Mounting the Probe'''
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Positioning and Probing'''
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# '''Priming the Conductor'''
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# '''Calibration'''
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# '''Top Layer Print'''
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#'''Preparing for Solder Paste'''
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#'''Aligning the Paste'''
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with a '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#'''Priming the Paste'''
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
##You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.
# '''18658'''
#
## The board consists of a button, a 680Ω resistor, and an LED. Attach a fixed 5VDC connection to the + and -, and the LED should illuminate.
==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31369 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|}

PCB Printer

2019-11-27T19:58:52Z

Czickefoose:

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__TOC__
==Description==

The PCB Printer (Voltera V-One) brings quick turn PCBs to your desktop. Import your gerber file into the Voltera software, press print, and the V-One will bring your board to life. Use the drilling, solder paste dispensing, and reflow features to mount components onto your printed board, or mount components on a pre-fabricated board with ease.

This is a simple example of what the PCB Printer can do. Currently the PCB lab has a different baking process using a different oven, so we will be curing the boards using a different method than shown in the video.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6nEgN4THRE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

The following conductive inks and pastes are stocked in the PCB Lab.

[[File:voltera_aqueous.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Conductive Ink:''' ''AqueousSnake''

- Use to lay conductive traces on substrates
 

[[File:voltera_furious.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste:''' ''FuriousAnt''

- Use only on boards that utilize Voltera's ink traces, such as the ink above.
 

[[File:voltera_armored.PNG|frameless|left|200px]]
'''Solder Paste Sn63 Pb37:''' ''ArmoredArmadillo''

- Use only premade boards, such as ones from [https://www.sunstone.com/ Sunstone Circuits]

 
 

<gallery>
File:voltera_substrates.jpg|Substrates
File:vone_probe.jpg|Probe
File:Dispenser_and_Sheath.jpg|Dispenser and Sheath
File:voltera_conductive_ink.png|Conductive Ink Cartridge
File:voltera_225_nozzle.jpg|Nozzle - 225 Micron
File:voltera_burnish.jpg|Burnishing Pads
</gallery>

[https://www.voltera.io/ Voltera Home Page]

[https://www.voltera.io/docs/downloads/manuals/Voltera%20V-One%20Manual%20%5BEnglish%5D.pdf User Manual]

[https://support.voltera.io/hc/en-us/sections/115001325748-User-Guides User Guides]

==Training==
====Overview====

PCB Printer is a fantastic tool for prototyping PCBs. After uploading Gerber files from Altium or a related software, Voltera will be able to print traces, pads, and bake them all in one location. However, the PCB Lab has a different tool for baking due to the amount of people it needs to accommodate, users will only be using the PCB Printer to print traces and pads. The Conductive Ink (used for Traces) is indicated by a green dot on the dispenser, the Voltera Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by an orange dot on the dispenser, and the Manufactured Solder Paste (used for Pads) is indicated by a blue dot on the dispenser.

Before beginning with your PCB, it is imperative that it is completely flat, meaning no components are installed, as it will result in breaking the nozzle of the dispenser, or it will be unable to calibrate correctly.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the PCB Printer, the student will design a PCB in Altium or related software, print the traces/pads, and transition to the Reflow Oven. As a part of the process, the student will also perform correct set up and shut down procedures, all of which can be found in the General Procedure below.

====General Procedure====

Using the Voltera to create single-sided boards with NO vias or holes.[[File:voltera_blinky_500.jpg|300x300px|thumb|right|Training board - The Blinky 500]]
# Drilling
## '''This board in particular does not have any holes, so this entire step can be skipped for this procedure''', however, these are the steps to take if you need to drill holes in the future.
## After opening the Voltera software, select Drill. This option is chosen only if you want to add holes to an existing board.
## For Drilling, you can either choose the Simple or Aligned route. Choose Simple if your board has no existing features, and choose Aligned if your board has some existing features. Lets go through the process for both.
## Drilling for a Simple Board
### Alrighty, you've chosen Simple, so this procedure assumes there is absolutely nothing fabricated on the board. Not gonna lie, this procedure is a little more sketchy than aligned simply because you literally eyeball your board's outline. The no eloquent calibration system. That's just how it works.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Then it will ask you to move your boards location on the plate so the Voltera knows where it needs to drill. This is the sketchy part. It outlines a square, and you make a judgement based on what it thinks. If it outlines too low, move your circuit up further on the plate to compensate for it. If it outlines too far to the left, move your circuit to the right on the plate to compensate for it. Continue this process until it looks "good enough."
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently. Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication... [[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
###Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
## Drilling for an Aligned Board
### Awesome, you've chosen Aligned, so this procedure assumes you have some preexisting holes and the like on the board.
### Voltera will ask you to upload your Ink and Hole files. Remember, the correct Hole file will say Plated in the name. This will allow you to calibrate the Voltera later and it supplies the drill locations.
### Clean the calibration switches. Do not drench the Q-tip with Isopropyl alcohol, only get damp, and wipe away gently.
### Use the clamps and screws to secure your board. It would be such a shame if it moved during fabrication...[[File:Board.jpg|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Mount the probe on machine. This will help us calibrate the machine. It will move to the wrong spot initially, but then it is your duty to move the probe into the correct spot. Lowering the probe will allow you to make fine tune movements to optimize the alignment.[[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|none|300x300px|thumb]]
### Once the alignment is complete, it will measure the height of every part of the board. It will take a couple minutes, so just be patient.
### Once that is complete, it is time to select the holes we want to drill. '''All the holes you select are highlighted in Green. Anything that is highlighted in Green will be executed.''' Remove the probe and select which holes you want to drill. Remember not to drill the holes that already exist![[File:...holes.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
### Select the corresponding drill bit, put it into the drill, mount it, and plug it in. Be extra careful not to break anything. People usually break it because while they are mounting it, the drill hits the Voltera and snaps. It's okay to push it into the drill pretty far, and this will keep you from breaking it. '''DON'T FORGET TO USE THE ALLEN WRENCH TO SECURE THE BIT!'''
### The drill should sing you a little song once it's connected. '''Before drilling, prepare the vacuum.''' Use this to suck all the debris that comes from your board. You can get it decently close to the board, even on the board while it is drilling, just be sure to move when the drill is getting ready to move.[[File:VacuumBoi.jpg|none|thumb]]
### And you're finished drilling holes! Vacuum up any debris and continue with laying the traces.
# Ready the Ink
## The ink is most usable when it reaches room temperature, so we have to let it warm up in advance.
## Reference the [[#Current Inks and Paste|Current Inks and Paste]] for information on the what the PCB lab is currently stocked with.
## Grab the correct conductive ink from the fridge, and let it warm up to room temperature, about 15-30 minutes. It is labeled with a '''green''' sticker.
# Software Setup
## Download the files for this project [[Media:pcb_printer_level_1.zip|here]].
## Power on the Voltera.
## Open the Voltera Windows application.
## Select "Print" and then "Simple." "Print" indicates that we want to print traces, and "Simple" indicates that the board is not pre-fabricated. If we had a pre-fabricated board, we would instead select "Aligned" so we can align the holes.
## Next we need to add the proper conductive ink, which is the same conductive ink you acquired in step 1.2.
## Load the ink file from the project files. This is the Top Layer Gerber file.
# Cleaning the Sensors
## Take a cue tip and dip it into the isopropyl alcohol. The cue tip should be moist, but NOT soaked. Dab the cue tip on a paper towel to dry it slightly.
## Clean the calibration switches by rubbing them with the cue tip.This will help clear out any crap that could hurt the sensor. [[File:Voltera cleaning.jpg|border|none|300x300px|Cleaning the calibration switches]]
# Clamping the Substrate
## Acquire a 1.5" by 2" blank board. They are located in the one of the drawers.
## Slide the board underneath the clamps on the Voltera, push the clamps towards each other, and finger-tighten the thumb screws. You should not be able to move the board once you clamp them down. [[File:Voltera clamping.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# Mounting the Probe
## Pull the probe from one of the drawers. The probe should have a large metal tip, do not confuse it with the dispenser. [[File:Voltera drawer.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the cap and place it near the Voltera.
## Mount the probe onto the magnetic gantry. It should snap into place and the contacts should align. [[File:Voltera mount_probe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# Positioning and Probing
## Click "Outline." This will show you where the Voltera thinks the board is. It will move the probe around the printer surface and determine how close the dispenser will need to be to the board.
## Repeat step one until the outline is centered with the board. Click and drag the circuit in the Voltera application to move the outline.
## '''You MUST ensure the outline does not collide with the clamps AND does not exceed the dimensions of the board!''' Do NOT proceed until this is checked!
## In the next step, Click "Probe" and wait for the Voltera to finish its measurements. [[File:Voltera probing.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Remove the probe, replace the cap, place the probe back in the drawer, and proceed. 
# Priming the Conductor
## Ensure 15 minutes have passed before beginning the next step. This helps the ink flow easier, so the dispenser should not be cold to the touch.
## '''Read carefully.''' The Voltera application explains this step well. Follow the on-screen instructions before moving on to the next step. Some tips/tricks/warnings: - '''Nozzles are fragile!''' You would be surprised how easy it is to break one. Treat this process with care! - Hold the dispenser over a paper towel to prevent ink from getting everywhere. - If you need to wipe the nozzle, do so '''gently''' and '''use a cotton swab found in the drawers.''' - Ink should not be flowing quickly out of the dispenser when you finish priming, but '''a very small amount''' of flow is OK. [[File:Voltera priming.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Mount the dispenser. [[File:Voltera mount_conductive.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
# Calibration
## Click "Advanced." Start with the '''Z at 0.10 mm''' and the '''E at 0 um'''. Adjust the Voltera to these values, as it is a safe distance for the dispenser.
## Click "Calibrate." The Voltera will lay down a test print. Pay close attention to the amount and consistency of the ink.[[File:Voltera calibrate.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below has slightly too much ink. Notice how a portion of the horizontal lines touch and some parts of the ink glob up. [[File:Voltera calibrate_bad.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## In this case, to make an adjustment, the ink height was set to a '''Z of 0.09 mm''' and the flow was set to an '''E of -10 um.''' This dispenses less ink than before.
## '''You may need to do the same or make different adjustments. Whatever you do, do NOT run the nozzle into the board! The nozzle will break!'''
## If an adjustment was made, '''wipe the board clean with a paper towel (shown below) and/or clean it with isopropyl alcohol''' and repeat the calibration. [[File:Voltera calibrate_wipe.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## The example below is a more acceptable test print. Strive for this consistency. If your board looks right, proceed. [[File:Voltera calibrate_better.jpg|border|none|300x300px]]
## Click "Next," and wipe the board clean a final time, as you are now preparing to print your whole circuit. 
# Top Layer Print
## '''The Voltera will print what is selected in Green.''' Below is an example of a portion of the board selected. Ensure the portion you want to print is selected (in this case, select everything.) '''Remember that blue lines will not be printed.''' [[File:voltera_selection.PNG|300x300px|none]]
## Click "Start." Let the Voltera finish its process. If a portion of the print fails or is incorrect, you can stop mid-print, or wait until it is finished and redo that selection. Also shown below is an example of a portion of ink that globbed up. The portion was wiped and can be reprinted. [[File:voltera_printing.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_blob.jpg|300x300px|none]] [[File:voltera_print_redo.jpg|300x300px|none]] 
## Remove the conductive ink, put the cap back on, '''and return the conductive ink to the fridge!'''
## When you reach the instruction titled "Flip Board," you are done. We want to bake these traces on the Reflow Oven before we do anything else to the board.
## Unclamp the board from the Voltera, and remember that the traces are still wet, so do not smear them around.
## Consult the Reflow Oven wiki and complete that process.
#Preparing for Solder Paste
##You should now have a PCB with traces baked on it! Time to make those pads for placing components.
##Take a burnishing pad from one of the drawers. Rub the substrate with the pad until the traces have a shine to them, rather than a dull appearance.
##Replace the burnishing pad back into the drawer. This cleans the surface of the traces and makes them look super shiny.
#Aligning the Paste
##This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to print solder. The user gives it two locations where the pads should go, and the Voltera can use the Gerber files to determine where else pads need to go.
##At this time, retrieve the solder paste from the fridge and set it out to warm. The correct paste is labeled with a '''orange''' sticker.
##Take the board back to the Voltera and clamp the board into place. Again, you should not be able to move the board after it is clamped.
##Open the Voltera application and choose "Solder," and choose the proper paste. In this case you want the '''orange'''-labeled paste.
##Clean the calibration switches, mount the probe, and proceed.
##Click 'Move to feature." This will move the probe to a pre-determined feature and should not be aligned properly on the first go. It is your job to align it correctly.
##First, use the arrow keys to roughly align the feature with the probe. This process will help the Voltera know where it needs to put the pads.
##Next, click "Lower," and use the arrow keys to fine-tune the alignment. Your precision in these steps is key to getting solder paste in the correct places.
##Click "Measure" when the alignment is correct. The board will be probed and the head will move to a second feature.
##Repeat steps 8 and 9.
##Click "Measure." The alignment is now finished.
##You can confirm the alignment by clicking various features and seeing if the head moves to the right position. If something is off, you can go back and realign if necessary. Proceed until you need to measure the height of the board.
##Click "Probe." This will measure the height of the board and determine how far away the dispenser needs to be from the board.
##Once it finishes probing, remove the probe and replace it in the drawer.
#Priming the Paste
##Refer to the priming directions in step 8 before mounting the dispenser.
##Once it is primed, mount it and proceed.
##Click "Dispense." The paste will dispense onto all of the selected pads.
##Strive for good coverage of paste, preferably covering most of the pad, if not all of it.
##Remove the dispenser. Twist the knob clockwise to back off the paste. '''Put it back in the fridge,''' and quit the Voltera app.
##Unclamp the board from the Voltera. Remember that you are handling a board with wet paste. Clean up!
##You are now done with the PCB Printer! Refer to the Pick and Place as well as the Reflow Oven wikis for the remainder of the process.
# Components
## The board consists of a button, a 680Ω resistor, and an LED. Attach a fixed 5VDC connection to the + and -, and the LED should illuminate.
==Safety==
# When the PCB Printer is moving and doing its thing, just let it be. Interfering will result in breaking equipment and possibly hurting yourself, especially with the drill. Voltera gives excellent advice/steps for their PCB fabrication process, be sure to follow them.
# If you feel like you do not know what you are doing, ask someone for help. You could damage both the equipment and possibly hurt yourself. Do not hesitate to ask or confirm at any point during the process.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31369 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# Drilling
## If your holes seem to be all out of wack, be sure to confirm the following: you should be using the vacuum to suck up any debris that comes from drilling your board while it is drilling. The pieces can interfere with your part.
## If they seem to be drilling in the wrong places, then it probably isn't aligned correctly. Go back in the process and start over.
# Calibration/Alignment
## During the probing process, be sure that your board is completely flat and that the clamps cover a minimal amount of the board while keeping it secure. If the probing hits the claps or runs off the board, the calibration is no good. Go back to the initial stages where you align holes/indicate where to print traces.
## When holes are available during the Alignment stage, always use them to align your board. NEVER use pads or traces unless you absolutely have to. Holes are much easier to align with.
# Printing Traces/Solder
## Be sure that the dispenser has been warming up to room temperature for at least 15 minutes so the ink can flow smoothly.
## If the ink does not seem come come out even when you're priming the dispenser, chances are that it is clogged. Remove the tip, notify a PCB Lab worker, and install a new tip (ask a worker if you don't know how).
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The PCB Printer has a few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use, including ink/solder residue and drilled material
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Replacing Sacrificial Layer
|When the existing layer is worn through and can potential damage the heating bed
|Ace
|
|-
|Replacing Nozzle
|When the nozzle is clogged
|Student or Ace
|
|-
|Refrigerating the Dispensers
|Whenever they are not in use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Switch Cleaning
|During Calibration stage using Isopropyl Alcohol and a giant Q-tip
|Student
|
|}

Virtual Reality Welding Station

2019-11-27T19:38:37Z

Czickefoose: Added item re: slag removal

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Welding simulator.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:AugmentedArc_Simplified_Package.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Miller AugmentedArc
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Miller
|Has model=Augmented Arc Welding Simulator
|Has ace=Jack Ellis;jellis18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The virtual reality welder is the industry’s most realistic welding simulation solution for classroom training. For beginner to advanced-level weld students, the AugmentedArc System simulates multiple welding processes, blending real-world and computer-generated images into a unique, augmented reality environment. Below is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=193&v=wYRymhZrFmk}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Base metal - The metal pieces that are being joined together. For the simulator there are several base metal configurations in the form of the blue coupons.
* Coupons - Small pieces of metal used to practice welding.
* Weld Metal/Electrode - The metal added to the base metal to create a weld.
* Torch - The piece that is held while welding and feeds the weld metal into the base metal.
* MIG Welding - Metal inert gas is a welding process in which an electric arc forms between a consumable MIG wire electrode and the base metal, which heats the base metal, causing them to melt and join. Along with the wire electrode, a shielding gas feeds through the welding torch, which shields the process from contaminants in the air. This is the easiest and most common type of welding and it is recommended that you start with this method. DC or AC current can be used for actual MIG welding but the AR welding station only uses DC current.
* TIG Welding - Tungsten inert gas is an arc welding process that uses a non-consumable tungsten electrode to produce the weld. The weld area and electrode is protected from oxidation or other atmospheric contamination by an inert shielding gas (argon or helium), and a filler metal is normally used, though some welds, known as autogenous welds, do not require it. This is difficult to master but provides great control when creating a weld. It is also useful for welding many metals besides steel.
* Stick Welding - A manual arc welding process that uses a consumable electrode covered with a flux to lay the weld. An electric current, in the form of either alternating current or direct current from a welding power supply, is used to form an electric arc between the electrode and the metals to be joined. The workpiece and the electrode melts forming a pool of molten metal (weld pool) that cools to form a joint. As the weld is laid, the flux coating of the electrode disintegrates, giving off vapors that serve as a shielding gas and providing a layer of slag, both of which protect the weld area from atmospheric contamination. This is the oldest form of welding and is still popular; however there is not a stick welder in the maker hub.
'''[https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/O276533H_MIL.pdf User Manual]'''

==Training==
====Overview====

The operation of the AR Welding station is simple. First you will select a torch for the type of weld you want to practice and plug in the machine. After that it is a simple matter of setting up an exercise based on difficulty, welding method, and weld type. See the image below to learn how to adjust different weld parameters and navigate the software. It is recommended that you start with the pre-programmed exercise to begin and then move on to custom exercises as you become more experienced. The general weld type is determined by what piece is being welded; the options include liner and cylindrical butt, lap, and T joints. Before the exercise begins you will have to calibrate the AR helmet. The calibration process occurs at the beginning of the exercise and is completed by following the instructions given by the AR helmet. After the calibration is completed complete the exercise, view the results, and then repeat.

====Demonstration====

With the virtual reality welder, students will get the idea as to how the welding machines work, whether that be arc, MIG, or TIG welding. Once students earn a score of 90 or higher on the simulation, they have the opportunity to work with the actual welders in the welding shop.

====General Procedure====

Setting up Simulator
# Plug in extension cord (make sure it won’t trip anyone) for power.
# Flip switch on back of machine to turn on.
# Press power button on the front of the machine and wait for the system to start up.
# Attach welding process of your choice (see welding processes section down below).
# At login screen, select user. Guest works well.
# Select right or left handed. This is important because it affects the angle the torch should be held at when performing an exercise.
# Open an exercise. There are four choices for creating an exercise: Open, GMAW (MIG), GTAW (TIG), SMAW (Stick). If you know what type of weld you want to practice go for the open exercise because it will allow for the most weld customization such as wire feed speed (WFS), wire diameter, and weld pattern. If this is a new experience, select the type of weld you are practicing and roll with one of the preset courses.
# On the top of the screen the welding parameters are displayed and will be in red if they are not set properly. Use the control panel (pictured below) to adjust them as needed. Most often you will need to adjust the voltage, amperage, and gas flow rate. This is to account for the electrode and base metal thickness so that the weld will penetrate properly. [[File:Weld Panel.png|none|thumb|594x594px| (1) Power On/Off Button Use button to turn system on and off. (2) Helmet Light Control Use button to turn helmet light on and off, and change intensity of light. (3) Filler Rod Light Control (TIG) Control not used with latest software. (4) Volume Adjustment Buttons Use buttons to increase or decrease volume of helmet speakers. (5) Display (Zoom) Adjustment Buttons Use buttons to magnify images on display screens. (6) Augmented Reality (AR) Button Use button to turn augmented reality feature on and off. (7) System Settings Button Use button to access system settings menu. Use the settings menu to change language, units of measure (standard or metric), camera settings and other parameters. After starting an exercise, use the System Settings button to adjust video device settings and optimize AR tracking for the room lighting conditions. (8) Clean Slag Button Use button to remove slag from augmented reality workpiece when Stick and FCAW welding. Slag must be cleaned for test results to be displayed. (9) Shielding Gas Flow Adjustment Buttons Use buttons to increase or decrease the shielding gas flow for the MIG and TIG weld processes. (10) Gun Trigger Selection Button Use button to select either two-step or four-step trigger operation. (11) Amperage/Wire Feed Speed Selection Button Use button to select the weld parameter (amperage or wire feed speed) to be adjusted (see Item 12). (12) Amperage/Wire Feed Speed Adjustment Buttons Use buttons to increase or decrease amperage or wire feed speed (see item 11). (13) AC/Polarity Selection Button Use button to select AC weld output or DCEP or DCEN weld polarity. (14) Voltage Adjustment Buttons Use buttons to increase or decrease weld voltage. (15) System Navigation Buttons Use buttons to navigate AR system programs and select menu items. (16) OK (System Selection) Button Use button to activate selected menu items. (17) System Cancel Button Use button to stop the AR program or activity in use, or return to the previous screen. ]]
# Place Helmet on head and size to head.
# Follow instructions in the helmet to calibrate the simulator and then begin welding.
# Press cancel to exit. There is also an option to view results that is very helpful.

Switching Welding Processes

MIG:
# Take the connector of the MIG torch and align the 4 holes with the connecting port on the front of the machine (left side).
# Twist the threaded end, but do not over tighten.
# To remove, unscrew the connector.
Stick:
# Grab clamp with the small cord attached.
# Align the pins with the 5 holes of the connector and with the connecting port on the front of the machine (right side).
# To remove, press the silver button and softly pull straight out (do not twist).
# See item 8 above, use Clean Slag Button to assure test results will be displayed.
TIG:
# Grab the cable with TIG torch attached.
# Align the 4 holes of the connector with the connecting port on the front of the machine (left side - same as MIG).
# Screw in while holding the connector (do not over tighten).
# To remove, unscrew the connector.

Clean up:
# Take the helmet off and place it on the 2nd shelf of the cart.
# Disconnect welding process.
# Exit out of the exercise.
# Press power button on front of the machine and wait for screen to be completely blank.
# Flip the switch to off on the back of machine.
# Unplug the extension cord and leave it coiled up neatly underneath the cart.
# Stack work pieces neatly.
# Coil up all cables of torches used and neatly place on the bottom shelf of the cart; leaving the space better than you found it if possible.
# Ensure that the cables are not tangled and do not pull on them if they are. This can damage the cables.

==Safety==
* Don’t drop the helmet, always place on cart when your not wearing it. It is expensive so take good care of it.
* When someone enters the room, make sure they know about the extension cord to prevent tripping.
* Do not aggressively over tighten the connectors of the welding torches or they could be damaged.
* Make sure to press silver button when releasing the connector of the stick torch or it could break.
* Do not cut power to the machine before it is completely shut down.
* Always lay torches completely on top of the table and avoid sharp bends in the wire to prevent damage to the torches.
* Make sure overhead clamp is secured tightly before using or you could get smacked in the head.
* Do not scratch the coupons as the simulator needs the markings to read your weld.
==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31719 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
* The most common issue with this device is the AR flickering on and off and this is extremely annoying because the welding process is halted each time this occurs. To fix this pay close attention to the red arrows on the side of the screen and move your view angle around until they disappear signify that the helmet is oriented with the coupon correctly. If the problem persists, press the AR button to perform a lighting calibration. You can also experiment with different brightness levels for the lights on the front of the helmet.
* If at any point an unfamiliar alert pops up on the screen, consult the Ace or the user manual to determine the severity of the error and how to fix it.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
Besides occasionally updating software, the only required maintenance is general cleaning. General cleaning consists of wiping dust off the machine when needed, making sure the space is kept neat and tidy, and make sure all cords and torches are in their place.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General cleaning
|After each use or as needed
|Student
|-
|Update Software
|Whenever a new version of software is released
|ACE
|}

TIG Welder

2019-11-27T19:03:14Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Welding Shop
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:TIG welder.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Syncrowave 250 DX TR.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make= Miller
|Has model=Syncrowave 250DX
|Has ace=Jack Ellis;jellis17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
* [https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/O359H_MIL.pdf Owner's Manual]

== Features ==

=== Squarewave technology ===
Squarewave technology was developed by Miller Electric in 1976 to improve your weld quality and make TIG (tungsten inert gas) welding easier. Miller Squarewave technology provides arc stability when welding aluminum, prevents arc rectification and eliminates tungsten erosion.

=== Balance control ===
The balance control is adjustable to provide additional oxide removal (more cleaning) or less cleaning based on the condition of the material being welded.

=== Syncro Start™ ===
This allows the choice of Soft, Standard or Hot TIG starts based on the application, lead lengths and tungsten size.

=== Digital welding meters ===
Display both amperage and voltage for viewing of the actual and preset values for greater accuracy and repeatability in your welding procedure.

=== Last procedure recall ===
Simplifies changing your Syncrowave back and forth from aluminum TIG to stainless TIG to Stick welding. One switch makes all the control panel changes.

=== Adaptive Hot Start™ ===
Stick welding features such as Adaptive Hot Start™ provide good arc strikes without sticking. Once welding, the DIG control makes dynamic adjustments to the welder to ensure smooth E7018 and deep penetration E6010.

== Procedure ==
# Place the fume hood over the area you will be welding
# Select electrode that is adequate for your application of material
# Grind electrode to a point. (This gives a smaller and more directed arc)
# Insert the electrode into the collet of the torch
# Attach ground clamp to table (ensure ground contact surface is clean)
# Ensure the adjusting screw on the tank regulator is loose (Do not unscrew all the way)
# Open cylinder valve all the way
# Turn the adjusting screw (clockwise) to increase pressure to 15 CFH.
# Identify material type, and thickness that is going to be welded
# Refer to TIG welding chart for specified adjustments, specific to your application
# Clean material to remove any oxidizing and or oil residue
# Turn on the welder and adjust----------
# Hold the electrode in your dominant hand (ensure it can move freely)
# Hold electrode about an inch away from the metal
# Using the foot pedal to control the voltage, start off with the foot pedal half way down to start a puddle on the material.
# Once a puddle is started let off the foot pedal to maintain a steady puddle without burning through the material.
# Once the puddle is formed, dab the filler rod into the puddle
# Moving along the material, walk the electrode back and forth across the puddle while dabbing the filler into the pool
# '''Shutting down:'''

# Close gas cylinder valve
# Back out adjusting screw on regulator (Do Not unscrew all the way)
# Turn off the welder
# Remove ground clamp

= Warnings =
# Don't exceed gas pressure past specified value
# Don't weld with gas off
# Don't touch tip to welding surface
# Don't weld in wet gear or standing water
# Don't unscrew valve adjusting screw all the way out
# Make sure ground clamp is connected to work

TIG Welder

2019-11-27T18:57:23Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Welding Shop
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:TIG welder.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Syncrowave 250 DX TR.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make= Miller
|Has model=Syncrowave 250DX
|Has ace=Jack Ellis;jellis17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==
* [https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/O359H_MIL.pdf Owner's Manual]

== Features ==

=== Squarewave technology ===
Squarewave technology was developed by Miller Electric in 1976 to improve your weld quality and make TIG welding easier. Miller Squarewave technology provides arc stability when welding aluminum, prevents arc rectification and eliminates tungsten erosion.

=== Balance control ===
The balance control is adjustable to provide additional oxide removal (more cleaning) or less cleaning based on the condition of the material being welded.

=== Syncro Start™ ===
This allows the choice of Soft, Standard or Hot TIG starts based on the application, lead lengths and tungsten size.

=== Digital welding meters ===
Display both amperage and voltage for viewing of the actual and preset values for greater accuracy and repeatability in your welding procedure.

=== Last procedure recall ===
Simplifies changing your Syncrowave back and forth from aluminum TIG to stainless TIG to Stick welding. One switch makes all the control panel changes.

=== Adaptive Hot Start™ ===
Stick welding features such as Adaptive Hot Start™ provide good arc strikes without sticking. Once welding, the DIG control makes dynamic adjustments to the welder to ensure smooth E7018 and deep penetration E6010.

== Procedure ==
# Place the fume hood over the area you will be welding
# Select electrode that is adequate for your application of material
# Grind electrode to a point. (This gives a smaller and more directed arc)
# Insert the electrode into the collet of the torch
# Attach ground clamp to table (ensure ground contact surface is clean)
# Ensure the adjusting screw on the tank regulator is loose (Do not unscrew all the way)
# Open cylinder valve all the way
# Turn the adjusting screw (clockwise) to increase pressure to 15 CFH.
# Identify material type, and thickness that is going to be welded
# Refer to TIG welding chart for specified adjustments, specific to your application
# Clean material to remove any oxidizing and or oil residue
# Turn on the welder and adjust----------
# Hold the electrode in your dominant hand (ensure it can move freely)
# Hold electrode about an inch away from the metal
# Using the foot pedal to control the voltage, start off with the foot pedal half way down to start a puddle on the material.
# Once a puddle is started let off the foot pedal to maintain a steady puddle without burning through the material.
# Once the puddle is formed, dab the filler rod into the puddle
# Moving along the material, walk the electrode back and forth across the puddle while dabbing the filler into the pool
# '''Shutting down:'''

# Close gas cylinder valve
# Back out adjusting screw on regulator (Do Not unscrew all the way)
# Turn off the welder
# Remove ground clamp

= Warnings =
# Don't exceed gas pressure past specified value
# Don't weld with gas off
# Don't touch tip to welding surface
# Don't weld in wet gear or standing water
# Don't unscrew valve adjusting screw all the way out
# Make sure ground clamp is connected to work

Planer

2019-11-13T18:47:05Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:planer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Planer icon
|Has iconwname=File:planer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:planer.png
|Has imagedesc=Powermatic Planer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Powermatic
|Has model=209HH
|Has ace=Logan Hanbey;lhanbey17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Powermatic planer contains a 5HP motor and 20" planing capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems, and the four-sided knife inserts seat themselves without requiring a set-up gauge. The 5" dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces. <ref>Description adapted from [http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Powermatic].</ref>
The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch on each pass. ''[deleted redundant sentences]'' The anti-kickback fingers and pressure bar are located in close proximity to the cutterhead for an exceptional finish. The solid cast iron base, table and head are designed for production. The 2-speed oil bath gearbox transmits full power to feed rollers and facilitates fast speed changes at 24 and 31 FPM. The gearbox can be changed to 4-speed with the included gear to run lower speeds of 16 and 20 FPM. The corrugated infeed and fine groove outfeed rollers ensure a smooth feed. The precision ground and polished cast iron table rides on four steel columns giving it plenty of support for the larger workpiece. Heavy cast iron extension wings ensure a flat, smooth cut.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcGqyujNYlM}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRK0yW4CcWs}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
[[File:...Planer.png|none|thumb|500x500px]]

[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/209hh-20-planer-5hp-3ph-230-460v/1791316 Vendor Website]

==Training==
====Overview====

The Planer is used to trim wood boards down by precise measurements, never more than 1/16 of an inch. It is super useful for make smooth surfaces without taking off too much of the board.

====Demonstration====

The demonstration for this machine will be to plane both sides of scrap piece of wood from the woodshop. It would be preferable to use a piece of would that is warped in some way to understand the process of planning each side.

====General Procedure====
# Connect and turn the one of the dust collectors (shown below) on so we can keep the place clean. Ensure that the restriction plate is “out”.<gallery>
File:Small Dust Collector Image.jpg|Small Dust Collector
File:Large Dust Collector Image.jpg|Large Dust Collector
</gallery>
# The planer has two feed speeds, typically, the 24 fpm is used whenever possible. For softwood, the 31 FPM setting can be used.
# Before turning machine on, adjust wheel to feed in work piece and adjust wheel back down to fit snugly.
# Remove piece and adjust wheel to trim desired amount off of work piece.
# Do not attempt to remove more than 1/16” per pass (one turn). Do not over load motor. Multiple passes result in less tear-out and are easier on the machine.
# Always determine the thickness of the thickest part of the board and adjust planer to match this thickness.
# Do not attempt to pass stock less than 12” in length through the planer.
# Turn the Thickness Planer on and wait until it has reached full speed before starting to plane your stock.
# Only plane one piece of stock at a time. Stand to the side of the stock and feed it into the infeed opening. Let go of the stock when the roller takes hold of it.
# Always plane with the grain, never perpendicular to grain (i.e., feed boards lengthwise, not width-wise).
# Never attempt to force feed the planer; always allow stock to move through under the force of the feed roller only.
# Stock will sometimes “hang” (or stop moving forward). Causes and solutions are:
## The pressure bar is causing too much pressure on the wood. To fix, simply raise the pressure bar lever slightly and your stock should continue on its path. When it starts moving again, gently put the pressure bar lever back down.
## The feed control may have slipped. Simply push it all the way to the right.
## The table is too high (not adjusted to the proper height). This should NOT happen since you’re supposed to measure the stock and then make table adjustment according to your needs.
# Never attempt to reverse feed stock. The motor turns one direction and will try to spit it right back at you.
# Be careful not to let your fingers become pinched between stock and table. It will hurt a lot.
# If stock is real long, get help holding it while you feed it into the infeed opening. Ensure your helper is standing to the side of the stock and NOT behind it.
# Keep your full attention on the stock, the controls, and where your hands/fingers are while you plane.
# After half of the stock has entered the planer, walk around back and hold the end up as the rest of the stock comes out of the machine. Do not pull the stock out; simply allow the machine to push it toward you. Adjust the pressure bar lever if needed.
# Do NOT plane to a thickness less than 3/8”.
# Listen to the sound the planer makes as it’s operating. If something doesn’t sound right, turn the Thickness Planer off and notify the shop aid.
# Always turn the Thickness Planer off and wait until it stops moving before making any adjustments.
# When finished working with the Thickness Planer, turn the machine off and remain in the work zone until it stops moving.
# Clean off the infeed table so that the next users’ stock will be able to make contact directly with the table instead of being raised up slightly by the chips left after you’re finished planing.
# Turn off and disconnect the dust collector.

==Safety==
# '''NEVER''' allow your hands/fingers to enter the infeed opening. Unless it you want to lose a finger and try to win some lawsuit money. It won't work, you'll lose. Be safe kids.
# '''NEVER''' turn on the Thickness Planer with stock inside the infeed opening. No good. Be safe kids.
# '''NEVER''' bend down to look into a planer while it is running. Unless it you want to potentially lose an eye and try to win some lawsuit money. It won't work, you'll lose. Be safe kids.
# '''NEVER''' open top when machine is running. Unless it you want to potentially lose something and try to win some lawsuit money. It won't work, you'll lose. Be safe kids.
# '''NEVER''' put your finger in a knot hole while operating the Thickness Planer. Unless it you want to lose a finger and try to win some lawsuit money. It won't work, you'll lose. Be safe kids.

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==
# If the Planer seems to be missing a spot on your board, then it is likely that you have a chipped blade. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.
# If the Planer does not seem to be cutting smoothly, then it is likely that the blade is getting dull. Replacing the blade would then be imperative before its next use.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

General and specific tasks need to take place to maintain machinery. Specific tasks are listed below '''''Note: In [Specific Maintenance Tasks below, 5th item has redundant terms "use if rusted", not sure how to edit table - CZ]'''''

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Work area around machine marked off clearly
|Before and after each use
|Student and Ace
|-
|Non-skid floor strips in area where operator normally stands
|Before and after each use
|Student
|-
|Clean with dust collectors and remove gum/pitch with with oven cleaner
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Lubricate appropriate places with a good grade non-hardening grease
|When needed
|Ace
|-
|Clean Table surface. If rusted, use If rusted, use paste mixture of household ammonia, a good commercial detergent and 000 steel wool. Wash surface down with hot, soapy water, rinse and dry thoroughly. Coat surface with talcum powder, rubbing briskly into surface with a clean blackboard eraser.
|Before and after each use
|Student and Ace
|-
|Check blade condition, should be sharp and free of nicks or grooves
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check belt condition. Replace as needed. Dress with belt dressing. Check belt tension
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check motor for loose wiring and sawdust congestion, pulleys tight and in line.
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check bearings. Replace any bad or suspect bearings immediately.
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|-
|Check leveling of extension tables with main table.
|Before and after each use
|Ace
|}
[[File:...planerMaintainance.png|none|thumb|610x610px]]
<references />

Jointer

2019-11-06T19:31:44Z

Czickefoose: Word change

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:jointer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Jointer icon
|Has iconwname=File:jointer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:jointer.png
|Has imagedesc=Powermatic Jointer
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Powermatic
|Has model=54HH
|Has ace=
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Powermatic jointer contains a 1HP motor and 6" capacity that will handle the most demanding work. The helical cutterhead provides quieter operation and finer finishing than conventional systems. The 4" dust port connects easily to any dust collector. Used to remove material from wood, as well as squaring to create straight pieces.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1O12_hRRAU}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

* Cutter Head - Drum of carbide inserts that performs the cutting.
* Fence - Metal back-stop that is used to guide and control the angle of material being cut.

[http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/p/54hh-jointer-1hp-1ph-115-230v/1791317K Product Home Page]

[http://content.powermatic.com/assets/manuals/1791279DXK_man_EN.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Operation====

The core of jointer consists of a round cutter head with many carbide cutters. The cutter head is located between the in-feed and out-feed table. The front table can be adjusted up and down to control the amount of material that is exposed to the cutter head. The lower the table the more material per pass will be removed. Don't try to adjust the out-feed table as the height has been set to support the material after it has been ran past the cutter head. Misalignment of the cutter head to out-feed table will create uneven cuts or jam the material on out-feed. There are a few other things to keep in mind regarding your material as well. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not cut materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the blade and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard. Only cut with the grain, attempting to cut across the grain of material will create poor results and could create kick-back.

If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the jointer itself. When setting up the jointer in-feed table, make sure not to remove more than 1/16" of material. This limits the amount of cutter engagement and will help prevent a kickback. You will also need to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the end of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the jointer to help keep the dust out of the air. As you make a cut, it is imperative that you keep the wood firmly against the fence and table. Therefore, you should double check to see if the fence is secure, especially because the fence can be adjusted. You do not want the fence to move while you are making a cut.

After the jointer is set up you are ready to cut. Press the power switch and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the cutter head/guard. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished. Do not let go of your work piece during the cut or it could be forced backwards.

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely setup the jointer. You will need to clean up one edge and one face of a board. Remember to never adjust the out feed table as it has been precisely set to the height of the cutter head. Adjusting the in-feed table will change the amount of material removed per pass. Do not set the in-feed table to remove more than 1/16" per pass. Your fingers should never go any lower than the height of the cutter guard. Verify the fence is locked and set at the angle needed before making a pass.

====General Procedure====

Edge Cleanup

1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails or foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards.

2. Make sure the board is at least 10" long and at least 3/8" wide to prevent the board from tilting while cutting.

3. Check the cut gauge on the front table. Make sure you know how much material is being removed. Never adjust the rear table.

4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle

5. Check that the dust collector is connected.

6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector.

7. Position your hands safely on the material and use a push stick if needed. A push stick is needed if your material is less than 2" thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head.

8. Slowly feed the material through while pushing down on the table and back against the fence. Moving the material too fast will produce a poor finish.

9. After making a pass measure the material to see if another pass is required. Multiple passes are normally needed to get the desired results.

10. Power off the machine and dust collector.

11. Reset the space.

Facing Material (planing)

1. Ensure that the material you are cutting is free from nails or foreign objects. Foreign material will damage the cutters and create flying hazards.

2. Make sure the board is at least 10" long x 2" wide to prevent the board from tilting while facing.

3. Check the cut gauge. When facing you normally want to take off a small amount of material per pass due to the large surface area.

4. Make sure the fence is tight and set at the correct angle

5. Check that the dust collector is connected.

6. Make sure the machine table is clear and press the power on switch for the jointer and dust collector.

7. Position your hands safely on the material. A push stick is needed if your material is less than 2" thick. This will keep your fingers away from the cutter head.

8. Slowly feed the material through on the table to get a smooth finish.

9. After making a pass inspect the material to see if another pass is needed. Multiple passes are normally required to get the desired results.

10. Power off the machine and dust collector.

11. Reset the space.

==Safety==
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a jointer.
* The cutters are very sharp and spin very fast. Keep your fingers away from the cutter head even when its not spinning. Use a push pad/stick to keep your fingers a safe distance from the cutters.
* Never let your thumb or fingers hang down near the table when pushing a board through the machine.
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table and fence to help prevent material kicking back. If material catches on the blade the material can shoot back at you and this is called a kickback.
* Use a hold down or push block when surfacing stock less than 12" long, or 3 inches wide, or 3 inches thick.
* Never feed material backwards.
* Never try to cut across grain as this could cause a kickback.
* Don't exceed 1/16" cut per pass.
This is a video showing how to safely use the jointer:
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3d1qBxcnI0E
}}

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30810 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
If the finish looks rough you may be feeding the material too fast. Try slowing down the speed you are feeding the material through.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Carbide cutters need rotating when they start to dull. This is a job for the technician.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Sample
|Sample
|Sample
|}

MIG Welder

2019-10-30T18:27:57Z

Czickefoose: minor

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Welding Shop
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:mig_welder_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Add description
|Has iconwname=File:mig_welder_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Millermatic 210.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Millermatic 210
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Miller Electric
|Has model=Millermatic 210
|Has ace=Jack Ellis;jellis18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Millermatic 210 is a wire feed metal inert gas (MIG) welder that is meant for light industrial use. Metal inert gas is a welding process in which an electric arc forms between a consumable MIG wire electrode and the base metal, which heats the base metal, causing them to melt and join. Along with the wire electrode, a shielding gas feeds through the welding gun, which shields the process from contaminants in the air. This is the easiest and most common type of welding which makes it perfect for those learning to weld. It uses 72/25 CO2 and Argon gas mixture to shield the molten weld from oxygen. If the weld pool is exposed to oxygen, it can create a handful of problems such as porosity and excessive spatter in the bead. This welder is capable of welding carbon steel as well as stainless steel. Below is a short video explaining MIG welding. Before completing the training on this machine you must complete the [[Virtual Reality Welding Station]] training and spend some time practicing with it to get a feel for the welding process. This purpose of this wiki is to explain the operation of the Millermatic 210 not the actual welding technique which is learned on the VR Welder. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twUAa5LWUvk}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* MIG Welding - Metal inert gas is a welding process in which an electric arc forms between a consumable MIG wire electrode and the base metal, which heats the base metal, causing them to melt and join. Along with the wire electrode, a shielding gas feeds through the welding gun, which shields the process from contaminants in the air.
* Weld Metal/Electrode - The metal added to the base metal to create a weld.
* Gun - The piece that is held while welding and feeds the weld metal into the base metal.
* Base metal - The metal pieces that are being joined together.
* Coupons - Small pieces of metal used to practice welding.
'''[https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/o1325a_mil.pdf User Manual]'''

==Training==
====Overview====

MIG welding may be the simplest welding method to use but that does not mean it is easy. First, it is important to wear the correct safety gear, i.e. closed shoes, pants, a welding coat, a welding helmet, and welding gloves, otherwise you will be burned by the UV light emitted by the welding arc. You must also make sure the machine is set up properly. To do this, the gas canister should be opened and regulator adjusted to 15 CFH. Depending on the material you are welding the voltage and wire feed speed will vary; you can find what values these should be set to by referencing the chart inside the cover of the welder. Once the welder settings are correct, set up your work pieces using clamps and magnets to hold them in position and clipping the ground clamp to the work piece or the metal table as long as there is a clean contact between the table and the work piece. The most difficult piece is keeping the correct gun angle, keeping a consistent travel speed/pattern, and maintaining the correct distance from the work piece. If you have spent time on the welding simulator then the gun angle and travel speed/pattern should be simple to replicate. It is more difficult to visually reach the correct distance from the material but if the welder is making a nice sizzling (just like frying bacon) sound then it should be correct. If there is a lot of popping the the gun is too far away and if there is more of a bubbling sound then it is too close. After performing any welds make sure to reset the space by putting away any scrap metal and other debris.

====Demonstration====

Perform several weld lines and one of lap, butt, or Tee joint welds. These should be performed on the coupons found in the weld shop. See the image below to see the different types of welds.
[[File:Weld Types.png|none|thumb|748x748px]]

====General Procedure====
Prior to Welding:
# Place the fume hood over the area you will be welding and make sure it is on. The power switch is located on the wall next to the door and light switch.
# Attach the ground clamp to the metal bench your work piece will be on. Ideally, place the ground clamp on the base metal itself to create the smoothest path for the electrical current.
# Ensure the work piece is touching the conductive surface of the table. This is critical if the clamp is not touching the base metal.
# Ensure the adjusting screw on the tank regulator is loose (Do not unscrew all the way).
# Slowly open cylinder valve all the way. Suddenly opening the valve could cause damage to the regulator.
# Slowly turn the adjusting screw (clockwise) to increase pressure to 25 CFH. At first it will spin freely but you will begin to feel resistance as the pressure begins to increase on the leftmost pressure gauge.
# Identify the material type and thickness that you will be welding.
# Determine the wire feed rate and voltage to fit your material and wire size. To do this, refer to MIG welding chart for specified adjustments specific to your application. A welding chart is included below for reference and the same chart is mounted inside the cover of the welder. This chart also depends on the wire size which is usually 0.035". [[File:Welding Chart.png|none|thumb|706x706px]]
# Turn on the welder and adjust wire speed and voltage to match the parameters layed out by the welding chart. Refer to the image below to see the controls for doing this. [[File:MIG Controls.png|none|thumb|837x837px]]
# Ensure you are wearing all necessary protective gear. This should include closed shoes, pants, a welding coat, a welding helmet, and welding gloves. There should be no skin exposed to the welding arc or it will cause burns.
# Ensure the welding gun has proper amount of wire protruding from tip (about ¼ inch) and that the gun nozzle is clean of any debris. You can use pliers to scrape off any debris in the nozzle. If too long, trim excess with the welding pliers. If to short, pull the trigger while the gun is not in contact with anything and more wire will be fed out.
Perform a Weld:
# Set up the work pieces in your desired configuration. Magnets and metal clamps are helpful for doing this and can be found on the tray below the tabletop.
# Tack the pieces together in a few places by holding the gun at the proper angle and holding down the trigger for 2-3 seconds. Before pulling the trigger make sure to say "welding" to let everyone in the room know you are about to start. If you do not know the correct angle to hold the gun go practice some more on the [[Virtual Reality Welding Station]] until you are comfortable with the gun.
# Perform as many welds as needed. If you are doing everything right the noise should sound like sizzling bacon. Also, you may need to periodically trim the wire between welds to keep the correct distance from the work piece.
After Welding
# Close gas cylinder valve.
# Bleed any remaining gas by depressing trigger until regulator drops to 0. Make sure the gun is not in contact with anything while doing this.
# Back out adjusting screw on regulator (Do Not unscrew all the way).
# Turn off the welder.
# Carefully coil the gun and return it to the welder. Make sure it does not get kinked.
# Remove the ground clamp and clean up any scraps and slag from the work area.

==Safety==
* Touching live electrical parts can cause fatal shocks or severe burns. The electrode and work circuit is electrically live whenever the output is on. The input power circuit and machine internal circuits are also live when power is on. In semiautomatic or automatic wire welding, the wire, wire reel, drive roll housing, and all metal parts touching the welding wire are electrically live.
* Don’t weld lead, zinc, copper, cadmium, or beryllium. Welding these materials can be harmful if not equipped with proper safety gear and training.
* Don’t weld in wet gear or standing water because this could create a new path for the electrical current to travel and cause a severe electrical shock.
* Always turn gas and the welder off when you are done in the welding shop to ensure there are no leaks that could cause asphyxiation (suffocating from lack of oxygen).
* Never weld without a welding helmet. Arc rays from the welding process produce intense visible and invisible (ultraviolet and infrared) rays that can burn eyes and skin. Be aware that sparks fly off from the weld.
* Never weld without gloves. Gloves protect your hands from the heat as well as the arc rays. No bare skin should be exposed.
* Don't weld with the vent hood off. Welding produces fumes and gases. Breathing these fumes and gases can be hazardous to your health. Asphyxiation can also occur due to the confined nature of the welding shop and the use of welding gasses.
* Always weld with the door open to lower the risk of asphyxiation.
* Don't weld with the gas off. This can damage the machine.
* Don’t unscrew the regulator adjusting screw all the way out. This could damage the valve.
* Please avoid touching the hot metal surrounding the weld, even if you are wearing welding gloves. You could get burned and the heat may damage the gloves.
* Avoid stepping on or kinking the cable attached to the gun. This can interfere with the wire feeding system and cause permanent damage.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31362 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
* Wire feeds from the gun but welding doesn't occur - Check that the ground clamp has solid contact with the work piece and that there is solid contact with the table if the clamp is on the table.
* The welding process is burning through the work piece - Double check the welding parameters chart to ensure the wire speed and voltage are correct.
* Trouble starting the weld at the correct distance - Trim the wire to around 1/4" so that the gun can be closer to the work piece.
* Wire feeding at an erratic rate - Readjust drive roll pressure; clean the gun liner and replace if necessary. See the user manual for details on doing this.
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Welding environments are often dirty so the {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}} holds up well to to dust by design and it is not critical to have it squeaky clean as a result. However, it is still recommended to wipe down the machine on occasion to prevent an excess of dirt buildup. It is important to clean slag buildup from the nozzle of the gun to increase its longevity and to inspect/repair the weld cable. To clean the nozzle, twist it off and then scrape away any slag with a pair of pliers. At this point you can apply a light coat of nozzle gel to the end of the nozzle to help prevent slag from sticking (this is found on the table to the left of the welder). Another routine maintenance procedure is the lubrication of the drive motor so that the wire feed system will keep functioning properly. For details on doing this refer to the user manual.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completed
|-
|Clean slag from the gun nozzle
|As needed
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Inspect/Repair cracked weld cables
|Every 3 months
|Ace
|
|-
|Clean and tighten weld terminals
|Every 3 months
|Ace
|
|-
|Blow out or vacuum inside of welder
|Every 6 months
|Ace
|
|-
|Remove drive roll and carrier and lubricate
|Every 6 months
|Ace
|
|}

Horizontal Bandsaw

2019-10-17T18:50:58Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Has make=Ellis
|Has model=1600
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has function=Horizontal Bandsaw
|Has url=http://www.ellissaw.com/mitre-band-saw-overview/1600-mitre-band-saw/
|Has icon=File:horizontal_bandsaw_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Horizontal Bandsaw
|Has iconwname=File:horizontal_bandsaw_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:Ellis1600_Horizontal Bandsaw.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Ellis Model 1600 Horizontal Bandsaw
|Has description=Used to cut large stock
|Has QR code=File:Horizontal Bandsaw QR code.png
|Has ace=Noah Bloomquist; nbloomquist17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

A horizontal band saw is a type of band saw where the piece stays stationary and the cutting head is a band saw arranged horizontally that cuts into the part by gravity assist. Our horizontal bandsaw in the shop is the [http://www.ellissaw.com/mitre-band-saw-overview/1600-mitre-band-saw Ellis Model 1600]. It can be used to rough cut metal or plastic (NO WOOD) stock to length. It has a cutting capacity of 10" Round and 10" by 8" rectangle at 90 degrees or 6-7/8" round and 8" by 6" rectangle when rotated to 45 degrees.

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Kerf - The slit made by cutting with a saw. This is important to keep in mind when positioning the cut or the final cut may end up shorter than desired.
* Horizontal Bandsaw Components: [[File:Horizontal Bandsaw Terms.png|none|thumb|814x814px]]

==== User Manual ====
* [[Media:Ellis_1600_Safety.pdf|Ellis 1600 Safety PDF]]
* [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/b/b6/Ellis_1600_Manual.pdf Installation and Operating Instructions]
* [https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/1/11/Horz_Bandsaw_Tension.pdf Blade Tensioning Guide]

==Training==
====Overview====

The first thing you will want to do is mark your stock where it should be cut. Once that is done place the material on the saw table and lower the blade to just above the material so you can accurately line the saw blade up with the mark on the material. If you are cutting rectangular stock make sure the longer side is the one on table. This allows more of the blade teeth to engage the material and lowers the stress on the blade as a result. To lower the blade, hold the handle on the idler wheel end of the saw with one hand and then open the hydraulic feed control by twisting the knob counterclockwise with the other hand. Lower the bade to just above the material and then close the feed control to hold the blade in place. Line up your mark with the saw blade but don't forget about the blade kerf if you are concerned about accuracy. Clamp the material in place with the vice and apply some oil to the cut area. You are now ready to cut. Press the green button to turn on the saw and then open the feed control slightly and keep one hand on the handle of the machine head to slowly lower the blade. Once the blade has a cut the depth of the teeth you can let go and gravity will feed the saw. The saw will automatically turn off when the cut is complete, but if you need to stop the saw during the cut press the red emergency stop button. Reset the space when you are done. All shavings should be cleaned up and disposed of properly. Put any extra stock back in its respective spot. When finished, make sure the blade arm is laying completely down so that the auto shutoff switch is engaged and no one can fit anything under the blade without raising the arm.

====Demonstration====

Cut a 1.375” long piece of 1” aluminum round stock for the lathe demonstration part.

====General Procedure====
This video contains specific information for using the Horizontal Bandsaw in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_wj7P3fYk0&feature=youtu.be}}
==Safety==
* Never place your hand below the blade. If, for some reason, the blade were to drop, significant injury could occur.
* Take care when loading stock that it is clamped firmly and set up so that as many of the teeth can be in contact with the material as possible. For rectangular stock this would mean placing the long side parallel with the floor. Doing these things will protect the blade from damage and reduce the chance of the material coming loose during a cut.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30475 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* Not cutting smoothly - Slow the drop rate. If this issue persists ask the shop supervisor to wax the blade and remove any metal chips clogging the teeth.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The most important maintenance procedure for the Horizontal Bandsaw is to keep it clean by vacuuming up any metal chips created by a cut. Also, the Bandsaw should be waxed every couple of cuts or if the Bandsaw is not cutting smoothly. If the Bandsaw continues to kick, you may unplug the machine and use pliers to remove metal chunks stuck to the blade

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Clean up Metal Chips
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Wax the Blade
|As needed
|Shop Supervisor
|}

Vertical Wood Bandsaw

2019-10-17T18:19:28Z

Czickefoose: Nothing important

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:wood_bandsaw_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Wood bandsaw icon
|Has iconwname=File:wood_bandsaw_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:wood_bandsaw.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Laguna Bandsaw
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Laguna
|Has model=14 bx
|Has ace=
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The bandsaw is generally defined as a saw blade in the form of an endless steel band that rotates around two or more wheels. This blade is a continuous metal band with teeth on one side. As the wheels rotate, so does the band, which creates the continuous sawing action. Because the direction of the blade is always downward toward the table, there is little danger (except for special cuts) that the wood will be thrown back at the operator, which is called a kickback. For safety reasons many woodworkers prefer the bandsaw especially when cutting small pieces. The unique feature of the bandsaw is that the workpiece can be rotated around the blade creating a curve. It is the tool most often used when curves have to be cut in wood. Because the bandsaw blade is fairly thin, it can cut thick stock with a minimum of horsepower. For this reason the bandsaw is often used when valuable pieces of wood are made into a thin piece of veneer.

Although the bandsaw is usually associated with cutting curves, a variety of straight cuts are easily made with the saw. In fact, it is often used to rip wood because it is much safer than a radial arm saw and also has a smaller saw cut, so it wastes less wood. This becomes very important when using expensive wood where waste must be kept to a minimum. The cut is safer because the force of the cut is straight down on the table; the work cannot be pulled back or kicked back, which sometimes happens with table or radial arm saws. The bandsaw can also cut very thick stock, which the radial arm, or table saw cannot do. The disadvantage of cutting with the bandsaw is that the surface finish of the cut is not as good as with the table or radial arm saw.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDU_2sT0etc}}
==Documentation==

====Terminology====
[[File:...woodVerticalBandsawTerms.png|none|thumb]]

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

Insert Text

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely setup the saw and cut out a curved shape. After making the curved cut demonstrate using the fence to make a straight cut.

====General Procedure====
# Make sure the blade guides and fence are in place. These are meant to help your cut, so it is crucial that these are in place.
## Instructions on adjusting can be found in the manual, but they should be fine by default. The ace should take care of such issues.
### Blade guides (p. 33-34)
### Fence (p. 35-37)
# Adjust the upper blade guard so that it is just clearing the material being cut
# Make sure that the cutting teeth are facing down since the blade moves downward. Otherwise, it will not cut.
# Make sure that the blade has been properly tensioned (blade doesn’t have slack) and tracked (blade moves evenly and consistently as the wheels turn, doesn’t wander back and forth)
## Instructions on tensioning (p. 30) and tracking (p. 29) can be found in the manual
# Make sure the proper size and type of blade is in use
##[[File:...woodVerticalBandsawKerf.png|none|thumb]]
## Blade help is in the manual (p. 38-42)
# Turn the saw on. ‘1’ turns on, ‘0’ turns off. [[File:...woodVerticalBandsawOnOff.png|none|thumb]]
# Hold the workpiece firmly against the table, flat side down.
# Push material into blade at a moderate pace, using a push stick if necessary at the end of the cut.
# Turn the machine off once the cut is complete.
# Remove the workpiece and reset the space.

==Safety==
# Don’t feed anything into the blade you don’t want cut. First off, it makes no sense and it could pull other stuff into the midst, like your own body. That isn't a good scenario, so let's prevent that.
# Plan out your cut before making it. Wasting material isn't a good idea, and it's more time consuming when you mess up.
# Don't try to cut too tight of radius. See the blade curve chart before cutting curves.
# Use a push stick to keep your fingers at least 3" from the blade.
# Keep hands and fingers out of the "danger zone" in front of the blade.
# Hold work piece firmly on the table.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/enrol/index.php?id=30801 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
# Suppose the bandsaw will not start.
## Check that the E-stop is fully pulled out.
## Check that the electrical power cord is plugged into the power outlet.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Little maintenance is needed to upkeep the Wood Vertical Bandsaw. Refer to the table below for specific tasks.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Blade Change
|When Dull
|Ace
|-
|Rotate back blade guard 15 degrees
|Every 8 hours of use
|Ace
|}

Wood Drill Press

2019-10-17T18:06:13Z

Czickefoose: Added note

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has icon=File:wood_drill_press_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Wood Drill Press icon
|Has iconwname=File:wood_drill_press_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:wood_drill_press_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Nova Voyager dvr Drill Press
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has make=Nova
|Has model=Voyager DVR
|Has ace=John Phifer;jphifer17@georgefox.edu
}}

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple. Compatible materials include wood, metal, plastics, and glass.

{{#evuhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8NTL8bPm7A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Drill - Cut a hole into the material

Through hole - A hole that goes completely through a material

Blind hole - A hole that goes partially through a material

Quill - Rotating handle used to set depth of blind hole

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

The Wood Drill Press is mainly used for drilling holes into wood.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Wood Drill Press, students will demonstrate that they can set up everything, and drill a through hole and a blind hole.

====General Procedure====
# Make sure you are wearing proper machine shop attire. (Safety glasses, rolled up or short sleeves, and closed toed shoes.)
# Make sure whenever making adjustments to your work piece that the Drill Press is turned off.
# Mark your piece where the hole should be drilled, then use a hole starter to punch a hole for the drill bit.
# Put the appropriate drill bit into the chuck and use the chuck key on the drill press to tighten it. Make sure you tighten all three sides of the chuck. Chuck key on left, Chuck on right.[[File:...chuck.png|none|thumb]]
# Adjust position of work-table for your work piece.
## The table height and rotational position can be adjusted using the handle on the column:
### Loosen the locking handle on the rear of the table bracket. NOTE: It is important to unlock this handle before adjusting the table
### Rotate the crank handle attached to the rack to raise/lower the table to desired height.
### Swing the table around the column to the desired position.
### Re-tighten the locking handle, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## To tilt the table:
### Loosen the bolt underneath the table using the 27mm closed end wrench included for this purpose.
### Loosen set screw underneath the previous bolt using 5mm Allen key.
### Tilt table to desired angle.
### Re-tighten bolt and set screw, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## For blind holes, lock the table at desired depth
### To lock the quill at a certain depth, pull the quill lever down to the desired level and turn the quill lock handle clockwise and tighten firmly.
### If the quill lock handle is not fully tightened when it reaches its limit:
#### Pull the handle out along the screw so it freely rotates ['''Note: clarify where the "screw" is and what its function is.]'''
#### Rotate back counter-clockwise
#### Set handle fully back down in place on screw
#### Tighten further until snug and quill is locked in place
# Line piece up with drill bit and fasten down onto work table using a clamp or vice. If drilling a through hole, put a piece of FLAT scrap wood under the piece being drilled to avoid a blowout.
# Turn power on using switch located on the right side of the machine as shown in the picture below. The yellow tab must be in place for the drill to be powered on.[[File:...voyagerthing.png|none|thumb]]
# Now the display screen should be on. Using the buttons adjust the speed to the specific speed needed to cut the materials. '''[Need to show illustration of display screen with description of settings - CZ]'''
## To use the speed chart:
### Go to the Menu > Speed Chart.
### Select the type of drill bit.
### Select the drill bit size.
### Select the work piece material.
### Confirm the new set speed. 6. The display will return to the default screen with the new speed selected.
# After getting everything set up, turn the drill press on. (NEVER put your hand or any other body part in the path of the drill)
# Pull the lever to drill hole. (NEVER move workpiece while drilling a hole)
# Turn machine off before drilling next hole and when you are done drilling current hole.
# When done, remove drill bit. ( When loose, use one hand to unscrew and the other to hole the drill bit, so the drill bit does not fall and get damaged.)
# When done, return all burrowed equipment and clean work area.

==Safety==
* Make sure you are wearing proper attire. (Short Sleeves, Closed Toed Shoes, No jewelry or any loose hanging accessories, and Safety Glasses)
* Keep body parts or anything else other than the workpiece out of the path of the drill but when on.
* Do not move workpiece while drill bit is inside of workpiece.
* Make sure the drill bit is secure and fastened into the chuck.
* Make sure drill is at the appropriate speed.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31323 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* It may be helpful to clamp down smaller work pieces to keep them from spinning while drilling a hole.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
Maintenance will be done to ensure the quality of the device. Tasks and their corresponding frequencies are listed below.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Clean area and Drill Press
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Wax exposed cast iron parts with paste wax
|Monthhly
|Ace
|-
|Lubricate gear and rack in the table elevation mechanism and the splines (grooves) in the spindle with a #2 tube grease, and lubricate the teeth of the feed shaft assembly and quill shaft with one or two drops of light weight oil.
|6 months
|Ace
|}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* [https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-voyager-dvr-variable-speed-drill-press-exclusive-amazon-bundle/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PzDxsni2wIVFNNkCh3lBAcLEAAYASAAEgL5NvD_BwE Product Home Page]
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PvDExhAOC8 First look]

== Training ==
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>

Wood Lathe

2019-10-17T17:44:33Z

Czickefoose: minor edit

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Wood Lathe.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Wood Lathe Photo.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Nova
|Has model=Galaxi DVR 1644
|Has ace=Josh Young;youngj17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__
==Description==

The wood lathe is a machine very similar to the metal lathe in the machine shop. It spins a piece of stock at a variable speed, and lets the turner create round objects. Unlike the metal lathe, there is not a cutter secured to the machine that is moved into place to cut. On the wood lathe, a turner will instead use long handled chisels to carve away the wood. Another difference is that for most projects, the wood is not clamped down in a found vise like the machining lathe, instead, two free-spinning center points on each side of the piece clamp the wood between them and hold it centered.

There are a wide variety of projects that can be done on the wood lathe, some easier than others, and all requiring a different need for skills and tools. This makes it hard sometimes to provide a common set of instructions, however, there some general safety rules and instructions for use that are used in any project on the lathe. The lathe can be fun to work with, but always remember, safety first.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3FmORZVfm4}}
==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Spindle: The spinning part

Chisel: The cutting tool

Tool Rest: The bar to help hold the tool in place

[https://www.teknatool.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/566-Galaxi-DVR-1644-manual_FINAL-Remote-II_23.July_.2018.pdf User Manual]

==Training==
====Overview====

The wood lathe is a machine very similar to the metal lathe in the machine shop. It spins a piece of stock at a variable speed, and lets the turner create round objects. Unlike the metal lathe, there is not a cutter secured to the machine that is moved into place to cut. On the wood lathe, a turner will instead use long handled chisels to carve away the wood. Another difference is that for most projects, the wood is not clamped down in a found vise like the machining lathe, instead, two free-spinning center points on each side of the piece clamp the wood between them and hold it centered.

====Demonstration====

You're going to make a snowman out of some wood! The goal is to smooth it into 3 spheres that look like a snowman, no additional accessories like carrot noses and top hats are necessary.

====General Procedure====
# Get your stock at whatever size you need for your project, and make it square stock so that all sides are the same size.
# Mark the center of both ends and use a punch to indent on the middle of both ends. This helps the lathe to spin it at its center.[[File:...woodLathe1.png|300x300px|thumb|none]]
# Make sure to use the two point centers on the lathe and ensure the motor head is tight on the rails. It would be very unfortunate to have your piece fly off.
# Move the end head to a distance longer than your stock and place one end of the stock on the motor head center, lining up the punch hole with the center point.
# Spin the handle on the back of the end head until the other center lines up with the punch hole on the other side of your stock.
# Rotate the handle and extra couple turns to push the stock into the motor head center and turn the red handle to hold the spindle in place. Now your piece is secured![[File:...woodLathe2.png|none|thumb]]
# Turn on the machine with the red switch on the side of the motor head. It will start to spin
# The metal tool rest should be at a height so that the tool on top of the rest will be cutting at the middle of the stock.
# The tool rest should be placed as close to the stock as possible where the stock can still spin freely without hitting the tool rest.[[File:...woodLathe3.png|none|thumb]]
# Start the spindle at about 750 rpm.
# Use the gouge to slowly begin chipping away the wood. Make sure the chisel is pressed firmly onto the tool rest and you are holding the bottom of the handle tight into your core.
# Slowly push the chisel up until it begins chipping at the wood.
# Start with the high parts of the piece or towards the middle if it’s all even, and move the chisel towards the end, chipping away little bits of wood at a time.
# Smooth out the wood, chipping away until you make a cylinder.
# Once you have the cylinder, choose one side to be the head.
# Gradually narrow down to a cone shape, then cut away material to make the three spheres of the snowman’s body.
# After the shape is done, sand the piece, progressively finer grit until smooth.
# Take the piece off, cut any remaining material and sand the mount points smooth.
# Yay, done. Reset the space.

==Safety==
Do not wear anything that could possibly get caught in the lathe, like bracelets, lanyards, hair below the shoulders, etc. We'd rather you not spin at 750 rpm.

When in doubt, ask someone what to do. The shop supervisors are skilled and are glad to give advice. Additionally, no one wants to deal with anyone getting hurt, so lets do everything we can to prevent that.

The most common issue with safety is digging the chisel in too hard. If it is dug in too hard, it can get caught in the wood and get shot across the shop. This is another instance we would love to avoid, but learning what is considered "too hard" comes from practice. Asking a shop supervisor to watch you and tell you how much pressure is good enough is a great route to go.

==Certification==

Foxtale Quiz

==Troubleshooting==
If the lathe is sounding funny, tell the shop volunteer/supervisor so we can get that checked out.

If you feel like you're losing grip on the chisel while shaving it down, chances are that you are digging in too hard. Lighten up a little, and be patient.

If it doesn't seem to be cutting well, first check the tool's sharpness before digging in deeper. If the tool is not sharp, notify the shop volunteer/supervisor and grab another chisel that is sharp.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The wood lathe has few items that need to be maintained by the student or the Ace. Refer to the table below to see each procedure, how often it should occur, and the the last completion of the specific task.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning, vacuum shavings and dust
|Before and after each use
|Student
|-
|Check tightness of bolts, lubricate with 1 or 2 drops of lightweight oil on tailstock quill threads, index pin, and Toolslide camshaft and Toolslide front camshaft bore
|Monthly
|Ace
|-
|Lubricate tailstock Slot with 1 or 2 drops of lightweight oil
|Every 6 Months
|Ace
|}

Mug Press

2019-10-10T18:51:19Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Hub
|Is used in domain=Vinyl
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File: Mug_pressIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:mug-press.png
|Has imagedesc=The Heat Press Nation HPN Signature Series Automated Sublimation Mug Heat Press
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=HPN
|Has model=Signature Series Mug Press
|Has ace=Daniel Oppenlander;doppenlander18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The HPN Signature Series Mug Cup Heat Press machine is a professional grade mug press designed to easily and efficiently heat transfer custom images onto standard mugs and water bottles. From small sized graphics such as names and logos to full wrap, edge to edge images the HPN Signature Series Mug Cup Heat Press delivers exceptionally high quality sublimation transfers every time. Here is an example of it in use:
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vndbNZ8wCIM}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* SV - Stands for set value and is used to indicate the parameters that the press should be operating at.
* CV - Stands for present value and indicates the current value of the heat press parameters.

==== [https://www.heatpressnation.com/media/user-guides/HPN/HPN-%20Signature-Series-Manual-2017-2.pdf User Manual] ====

==Training==
====Overview====

The operation of the mug press is pretty simple. First, select a heating element that fits your glass or mug and fasten it into place using the black screws. There is no formula for selecting the correct element other than putting your mug inside and making sure it fits snug. Adjust the pressure using the large black knobs so that there is a firm, even pressure over the mug. Next, set the time and temperature. Feel free to experiment with different values as there is not an exact formula, but for the heat transfer vinyl that is commonly used on the vinyl printer anywhere between 300°F and 325°F for 15 seconds works. If the graphic begins to peel off when removing the paper then the time should be increased and if the graphic colors change when being applied the temperature should be decreased. Also it is important to use the Teflon sheets found in the t shirt heat press to prevent sticking to the heating element if using the plastic transfer paper. After the time and temperature are set place the mug in the element and clamp down. The timer will beep once the transfer is complete. For complete details see the general procedure.

====Demonstration====

A mug or glass is required in order to perform a transfer on this machine which makes it difficult to perform simple test or demonstration transfers. Consequently, the demonstration will be pressing a graphic of choice onto a mug or glass.

====General Procedure====
# Select a heating element. Heating elements come in different sizes with their own connection cord. This is not an exact science, simply slide the mug into the element and make sure it can wrap around it with a snug fit.
# Use the black set screws to secure the heating element into the press and plug it into the controller. Make sure to screw in the plug as well to ensure a good connection.
# Once the heating element is installed you will want to adjust the pressure applied to the mug using the four large pressure adjustment knobs. The pressure should be evenly distributed across the mugs's surface and firm without risk of crushing it.
# Adjust the time and temperature. 305 °F for 15 seconds is recommended as a starting point but feel free to try new things to improve the results. See the image below for details on changing the time and temp. [[File:Mug press temp.png|none|thumb|799x799px]]
# Place the graphic onto the mug. Tape may be helpful so that the graphic does not shift after it is placed into the press.
# Put the mug into the press and clamp down until the timer beeps.
# Remove the mug from the press and wait about 30 seconds before removing the paper.
# Reset the space by turning off the machine, throwing away any scraps and wiping any debris off the machine.
==Safety==
* This machine uses heat to operate so be aware of the heating element when it is running to avoid burns.
* Do not leave the heating element on any longer than necessary if there is nothing inside it. Long periods of time without something in the press can damage the heating element.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31422 Foxtale Quiz]

Note that this quiz includes information from the heat press so make sure to review the heat press wiki before taking it.

==Troubleshooting==
* Getting the graphic to stick properly can be very difficult. If it does not stick the the time and temperature should be increased but not too much or the vinyl will melt. It will also help to wait for things to cool before removing the backing.
* If the vinyl comes out looking melted then it was most likely left in too long; reduce the time.
* If the vinyl is wrinkled then it probably shifted while being clamped; secure the vinyl with tape before clamping.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The only maintenance needed on this machine is general cleaning. Use a paper towel and cleaner if necessary to wipe of any dust and vinyl debris.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|As needed
|Student
|}

Milling Machine

2019-10-10T17:54:48Z

Czickefoose: Punctuation & spelling

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has redirect={{FULLPAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:milling_machine_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Milling machine icon
|Has iconwname=File:milling_machine_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:milling_machine.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Bridge Port Mill
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Bridgeport
|Has model=Series I
|Has ace= Madi Jones; mjones16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Bridgeport Series 1 Mill is a vertical mill used to mill various materials into desired shapes and sizes. It can also be used to perform special functions such as drilling, chamfering, reaming, fly cutting, and many more. Some examples of items made from mills are piston bore holes, valve plates, gears, and even your own tools. This is done by using a rotary cutter to remove material by advancing a cutter into a work piece in varying direction along three axes. Milling covers a wide variety of different operations and machines, on scales from small individual parts to large, heavy-duty gang milling operations. It is one of the most commonly used processes for machining custom parts to precise tolerances. The video below shows a part being machined by a CNC mill which is a computer driven mill, but still demonstrates the milling process.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cp4eCXnc4Q}}
==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Spindle - The rotating shaft, driven by the motor, that holds the cutting tools.
* Quill - The part of the vertical milling machine that raises and lowers cutting tools held in the spindle.
* Quill Handle - The long handle on the right side of the machine that raises and lowers the quill.
* Endmill - A common machining tool having cutting teeth on the end of a cylindrical shank and usually spiral blades on the lateral surface. Because of this geometry it can cut in any direction.
* Facing - The process of cutting a flat surface perpendicular to the axes of the milling cutter. Often this is done on the initial piece of raw stock as the first step in the milling process.
* Deburring - To neaten and smooth the rough edges or ridges of a part after it has been machined.
* Edge finding - The process of using an edge finder to align the coordinate system of the mill with the corner of your part.
* Collet - A device that forms a collar around an object to be held and exerts a strong clamping force on the object when it is tightened. On the mill the collet is attached to the spindle and is used to hold cutting tools in place.
* Parallels - Thin, flat pieces of metal that are used to hold a work piece "parallel" to the mill's work table.

==== [https://www.hardinge.com/wp-content/uploads/KneeMill-Complete-Manual.pdf User Manual] ====

==Training==

==== Overview ====
When making a part, it can usually be milled in several different ways and as a result this will focus on general operations such as changing tools, starting and stopping the spindle, changing speeds, and changing gears. To learn how to mill the specific part for the demonstration see the video below. The first thing you will need to do is properly secure your work piece in the vice. Place the piece in between the jaws and turn the handle clockwise to tighten. If the piece is to small to protrude from the top of the vice use a set of parallels to raise the work piece above the vice. This makes it easy to face the work piece without damaging the vice. Next you will need to insert a tool. To insert a cutting tool under the new system, push the tool upwards into the collet with one hand and then push quill handle up with the other to compress the spring above the collet. Pushing up on the quill handle will allow the the tool to slide up into the collet and the tool will lock in place once the handle is lowered. A decent amount of force is required to compress the spring so don't be afraid to push hard. To release the tool, hold it in one hand while pushing up on the quill handle and then pull it out once the spring is compressed. You are then ready to begin machining. Use the spindle start-stop switch to turn on the mill. You will notice an option for high or low on the switch. If the mill is in high gear, the high setting will run the spindle forward (clockwise) and the low setting will run the spindle in reverse. If the mill is in low gear, the opposite will occur. If you are not sure what gear the mill is in look at the high-low lever to determine the gear (check out the images below to see the location of the switches). Once the mill is on you will need to adjust the spindle speed to match your material by referring to the speed chart on the wall above the mill and turning the spindle speed hand wheel till the speed is correct. Only adjust the speed while the machine is ON. You may need to switch gears to achieve the proper speed. Do this by rotating the high-low range lever from the current gear to the desired gear. Do not force the lever into place if there is resistance; instead use your other hand to slightly twist the spindle so that the range lever slides into place. After the machine is on, use the axes adjustment handles and the digital display to mill your part. Feel free to ask a shop supervisor for specifics or best milling processes for your part. <gallery widths="250" heights="250">
File:MillOn.png
File:MillSpeed.png
File:MillRange.png
File:QuillHandle.png
</gallery>
====Demonstration====

For the demonstration, you will face a piece of aluminum stock, drill a hole in the center, ream the hole, and deburr all of the edges. Reference the video below to see what this should look like.

====General Procedure====
This video contains specific information for using the Mills in the Maker Hub as well as a basic overview of what will be expected in your live demonstration. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJjXAxYH9TA}}'''Note''' that the tool changing system has been upgraded since this video was produced. To insert a cutting tool using the new system, push the collet upwards into the spindle with one hand and then push the quill handle against the end of travel with the other to compress the spring in the tool change mechanism. Make sure the quill lock is unlocked when installing or removing tooling. Pushing up on the quill handle will allow the the tool to slide up into the collet and the tool will lock in place once the handle is lowered. A decent amount of force is required to compress the spring so don't be afraid to push hard. Make sure to push the quill feed handle towards the machine to prevent the handle from disengaging. To release the tool, hold it in one hand while pushing up on the quill handle and then pull it out once the spring is compressed. Never make contact with the cutter while inserting or removing tooling from the spindle.

== Safety ==
* General shop protocol is important when using the mill. Long hair, long sleeves, jewelry, gloves, and lanyards are all risks to be wrapped up by the spindle and should not be worn.
* Always make sure that there is plenty of space between the cutting tool and the work piece before turning on the mill. If the tool comes into contact with the work piece before getting up to speed and is set deeper than the maximum cutting depth, things will break.
* At times your work piece may be obscured by metal chips while cutting. Do not remove them while the machine is running. Turn off the mill, wait till it comes to a complete stop, and then remove the chips. There are some brushes on the tool rack that may be helpful for removing stubborn chips.
* The milling process is great at creating sharp edges. Be aware of this when handling the work piece and make sure to deburr any sharp edges.
* Never make contact with the cutters as they are razor sharp and will cut you.
* Never pass your hand under a cutter.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=30472 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* Not cutting smoothly - Check that the spindle is set to the proper direction. This will cause the tool to not cut properly and will damage the tool. Check that the tool is sharp and the cut depth is not too large as well. Adding cutting oil will also improve the cut.
* Can't reach low spindle speeds - If you adjust the speed dial to a low spindle speed but the spindle is still moving fast then the mill must be switched into low range. Stop the mill, flip the lever on the right side of the machine to low, and then turn the mill back on. Make sure to turn on switch to low when the mill is in low range or the spindle will spin backwards.
* Difficult to shift to low range - At times it can difficult to lock the lever into place when switching between high and low range. If this occurs, twist the spindle slightly while switching the lever so that it will lock in place. Twisting the spindle helps the internal gears lock into place properly.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

This machine requires minimal maintenance but like all the other machines in the Maker Hub it is important to clean the machine of metal chips and any other debris after each use. The shop vac is best suited for this task. Anything more advanced is taken care of by Justin.

Metal Laser Cutter

2019-10-03T18:20:03Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File: Metal_laser_cutterIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:FabLight.jpg
|Has imagedesc=FabLight Laser
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Fablight
|Has model=FL4500
|Has ace=Devin Howard;dhoward16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: Machine Shop

__TOC__

==Description==

FabLight FL4500 is a versatile and powerful laser cutter that is capable of engraving and cutting sheet and tube metal. It will cut and engrave on square, rectangle, and round tubes up to 2" diameter as well as sheet metal. Internal features on tubing such as complex holes, slots, notches, and other features along the tube are also very easy to cut. It is equipped with an industrial-quality IPG fiber laser and precise mechanical control, you can make just about anything metal you can think of, including: custom signs, furniture, panels, enclosures, industrial components, jewelry & art.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5qoiouFq50&feature=youtu.be}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPpDD0U3Hps}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Engrave - Removes a thin layer of material from the surface of the metal along an established line. This has great accuracy but only produces a thin line.
* Raster - Very similar to an engrave but a raster is used to engrave a large area by passing over the area repeatedly. This works great for lettering, designs and such but does lose a little accuracy around the edges.
* FabCreator - The software used to set up a cut from a DXF.

==== User Manual ====
[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/d/d7/FabLight_Operator_Manual_v3.0.pdf Fablight User Manual]

[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/3/31/3D_Fab_Plugin_Manual_v2.0.pdf Solidworks Plugin Manual]

[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/d/d2/FabCreator_Manual_v3.0.pdf FabCreator Manual]

==Training==
====Overview====

The Fablight is a simple machine to use for cutting flat stock. A part is saved as a DXF file and then imported to FabCreater where features can be set to cut, engrave, raster, or just be reference geometry. In FabCreator, tabs can be added to make sure small parts don't fall to the bottom of the machine along ''[along what?''] and material properties are set as well. Once the part is set up correctly it is saved to a USB drive to be transferred to the machine. Most of the interactions with the machine happen through the touchscreen which makes previewing and cutting the job a simple task. Cutting tube stock is more intricate. The Fablight Solidworks Plugin is used to make a 2d DXF out of the 3d Solidworks model by essentially unwrapping the tube until it is one flat piece. This DXF is then wrapped back up into a 3d part in FabCreater before being sent to the machine. Only use the Fablight Solidworks Plugin when cutting or engraving tube stock.

====Demonstration====

For the demonstration, you are required to engrave your own design on flat stock. This design should include a cut, engrave and raster. If no design is available use a George Fox logo.

====General Procedure====
'''For Flat Stock:'''

Setting up the file:
# Export the desired part as a DXF (a DWG will also work). It does not matter what software was used to create it as long as it can be exported as a DXF.
# Open the FabCreater software.
# Import the DXF using [File] > [Import] and make sure to select the correct units when prompted.
# Go to the [Edit] tab to select and delete any unwanted lines.
# Alternatively, line types can be adjusted in the [Part] tab to be cut, engraved, a raster, or a reference line. This can be helpful to see what the entire part looks like if when you are cutting a smaller piece for it.[[File:FabCreator.png|none|thumb|627x627px]]
# Go to the [Properties] tab and select the correct material properties such as material type, thickness, and stock type.
# While in the [Properties] tab, select the [Move to Origin] option to properly align the part where the laser will begin cutting. If there are multiple parts, align one with the origin and then orient the rest based on that.
# Hit [Accept].
# If there are any small parts, tabs can be added to prevent them from falling through the rack by going to the [Process] tab and the clicking the [Tabs] button.
# Save the file to a USB drive by going to [Job] > [Make]. Note: Make sure this is not saved in a folder of the USB drive so the laser can find the job.
Setting up the laser cutter:
# Slowly open the nitrogen canister so that the system is not filled to quickly and then adjust the regulator to 150 psi. Do not exceed 150 psi because the pressure in the canister is enough to rupture the hose to the machine.
# Turn on the Fablight by flipping the switch found on the left side of the machine and then turning the key.[[File:Fab light panel.png|none|thumb|556x556px]]
# Once it is on select the machine home feature on the touchscreen to move the laser head to its starting position.
# Open the door on the front of the machine and check that the adjustable chuck is slid all the way to the right so the material tray will not hit it.
# Slide out the material tray so that the cutting material can be loaded.
# Place the cutting material anywhere on the tray and slide the tray back in. Make sure a click is heard to signify that the tray is in the correct position. There are two places where it will click you want to stop at the first one. The second one is at the very back of the machine and is where the tray goes when using the chuck.
# Close the door.
Performing the cut:
# Insert the USB drive on the right side of the panel. [''not to be confused with the "Key Switch key"'']
# Using the touch screen, press [New Job] > your file name > [Select Job]. A preview window will then open up where the model can be checked to make sure everything is correct.
# Hit the green checkmark to exit the preview.
# Hit the green checkmark again to move to the next step.
# Set the origin by moving the x and y slider bars. The laser head will move with the sliders and the exact position can be seen by the red guide laser. The location of the red dot will be the origin used in the FabCreater software and it should be placed where the use of material can be maximized (usually the corner of the material, furthest away from the chuck.).
# Press [Run Job] on the touchscreen.
# Press the [Start] button to the top of the touchscreen to begin the cut.
# Once the cut is completed wait a minute or so to let fumes dissipate and the material to cool.
# Remove the material from the machine using the door on the front.

== Safety ==
*Laser cutting or engraving of many materials can create hazardous fumes. These fumes may be dangerous to breathe and can damage the FabLight. Consult Manufacturer’s Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for all materials before laser cutting. The user of the FabLight is responsible for exhaust ventilation and removing cutting fumes from the working area. Before operating the FabLight, make sure that the exhaust system working properly.
*There are often sharp edges left on the material from the cutting process. Be careful handling a fresh cut piece and use the deburring tools to remove any sharp edges.
*On a similar note a fresh cut piece is usually hot so check the temperature with the back of your hand before picking it up.
*Regular operation can start fires! Be wary.
*Before opening any covers, turn off the machine to make sure no cutting operations will happen while you are handling the inside the the laser cutter. Be safe kids.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31417 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
* The job runs but machine does not cut. Most likely the dry run process selected. Toggle dry run off.
* The machine does not cut, many sparks visible. The process table is not set correctly or the cutting head or optics are dirty. Ensure correct focal offset, cut speed, cut height, and gas pressure in process table. Check that the nozzle tip is clean, wipe off slag with Scotchbrite.
* Machine loses cut so that there crooked lines and gaps in the part. Again this is because the process table parameters14896 ''[Is this a true statement?]''
* Incorrect or the cutting head/optics are dirty. Verify cut process parameters including cut speed, cut height, and gas pressure. Check nozzle tip is clean, wipe off slag with Scotchbrite.
* Cut does not go all the way through material. Select correct process. Reduce cut speed. Increase assist gas pressure up to 145 PSI. Verify process table is correct. Verify beam centering and focus test. Inspect nozzle tip.
* If your machine has a rotary you may encounter two homing errors. If the touchscreen says, “Idler (the chuck that holds the right side of the tube) not homed. Move idler to home”, open the door and move the idler all the way to the right. There is a sensor that detects when the idler is in its home position. Once the idler is in the home position, close the message and repress HOME THE MACHINE. If you encounter an error message saying that the rotary is locked; simply pull out the red pin, close the message, and repress HOME THE MACHINE.
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Just like any other machine tool, the FabLight must be cleaned regularly for optimal performance. Lack of regular preventive maintenance (PM) will lead to damaged machine components, a reduction in part quality, and machine downtime. Cleaning the entire machine takes on average 10 minutes to complete and is easy to do with a single person. Even if the machine does not appear to be dirty, over time metal particles can build up; for optimum machine performance you must adhere to the recommended PM schedule, even if the machine “does not appear to be dirty.”

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General Cleaning
|Every 1-2 Weeks depending on usage rate
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean Window
|Once a month
|Ace
|
|-
|3
|Lubricate drawer slides
|Quarterly
|Ace
|
|-
|4
|Apply WD-40 to rails
|Quarterly
|Ace
|
|-
|5
|Empty clean out drawer
|Once a month
|Ace
|
|}
# Vacuum out entire machine and wipe down the encoder strips with a paper towel. See [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHSUXOYKm5Y&feature=youtu.be this video] for details. Also wipe off the cutting head with a paper towel.
# Wipe down the inside of the window with a microfiber cloth, not the vacuum or a paper towel.
# Apply grease to the drawer slides to keep them operating smoothly.
# Spray the rails with WD-40 to lubricate and keep them clean.
# Open the drawer, remove any large parts by hand, and then vacuum out the rest.

Metal Laser Cutter

2019-10-03T18:03:34Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=Metal
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File: Metal_laser_cutterIcon.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:FabLight.jpg
|Has imagedesc=FabLight Laser
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Fablight
|Has model=FL4500
|Has ace=Devin Howard;dhoward16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: Machine Shop

__TOC__

==Description==

FabLight FL4500 is a versatile and powerful laser cutter that is capable of engraving and cutting sheet and tube metal. It will cut and engrave on square, rectangle, and round tubes up to 2" diameter as well as sheet metal. Internal features on tubing such as complex holes, slots, notches, and other features along the tube are also very easy to cut. It is equipped with an industrial-quality IPG fiber laser and precise mechanical control, you can make just about anything metal you can think of, including: custom signs, furniture, panels, enclosures, industrial components, jewelry & art.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5qoiouFq50&feature=youtu.be}}
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPpDD0U3Hps}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Engrave - Removes a thin layer of material from the surface of the metal along an established line. This has great accuracy but only produces a thin line.
* Raster - Very similar to an engrave but a raster is used to engrave a large area by passing over the area repeatedly. This works great for lettering, designs and such but does lose a little accuracy around the edges.
* FabCreator - The software used to set up a cut from a dxf.

==== User Manual ====
[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/d/d7/FabLight_Operator_Manual_v3.0.pdf Fablight User Manual]

[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/3/31/3D_Fab_Plugin_Manual_v2.0.pdf Solidworks Plugin Manual]

[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/d/d2/FabCreator_Manual_v3.0.pdf FabCreator Manual]

==Training==
====Overview====

The Fablight is a simple machine to use for cutting flat stock. A part is saved as a DXF file and then imported to FabCreater where features can be set to cut, engrave, raster, or just be reference geometry. In FabCreator, tabs can be added to make sure small parts don't fall to the bottom of the machine along ''[along what?''] and material properties are set as well. Once the part is set up correctly it is saved to a USB drive to be transferred to the machine. Most of the interactions with the machine happen through the touchscreen which makes previewing and cutting the job a simple task. Cutting tube stock is more intricate. The Fablight Solidworks Plugin is used to make a 2d DXF out of the 3d Solidworks model by essentially unwrapping the tube until it is one flat piece. This DXF is then wrapped back up into a 3d part in FabCreater before being sent to the machine. Only use the Fablight Solidworks Plugin when cutting or engraving tube stock.

====Demonstration====

For the demonstration, you are required to engrave your own design on flat stock. This design should include a cut, engrave and raster. If no design is available use a George Fox logo.

====General Procedure====
'''For Flat Stock:'''

Setting up the file:
# Export the desired part as a DXF (a DWG will also work). It does not matter what software was used to create it as long as it can be exported as a DXF.
# Open the fabcreator software.
# Import the DXF using [File] > [Import] and make sure to select the correct units when prompted.
# Go to the [Edit] tab to select and delete any unwanted lines.
# Alternatively, line types can be adjusted in the [Part] tab to be cut, engraved, a raster, or a reference line. This can be helpful to see what the entire part looks like if when you are cutting a smaller piece for it.[[File:FabCreator.png|none|thumb|627x627px]]
# Go to the [Properties] tab and select the correct material properties such as material type, thickness, and stock type.
# While in the [Properties] tab, select the [Move to Origin] option to properly align the part where the laser will begin cutting. If there are multiple parts, align one with the origin and then orient the rest based on that.
# Hit [Accept].
# If there are any small parts, tabs can be added to prevent them from falling through the rack by going to the [Process] tab and the clicking the [Tabs] button.
# Save the file to a USB drive by going to [Job] > [Make]. Note: Make sure this is not saved in a folder of the USB drive so the laser can find the job.
Setting up the laser cutter:
# Slowly open the nitrogen canister so that the system is not filled to quickly and then adjust the regulator to 150 psi. Do not exceed 150 psi because the pressure in the canister is enough to rupture the hose to the machine.
# Turn on the Fablight by flipping the switch found on the left side of the machine and then turning the key.[[File:Fab light panel.png|none|thumb|556x556px]]
# Once it is on select the machine home feature on the touchscreen to move the laser head to its starting position.
# Open the door on the front of the machine and check that the adjustable chuck is slid all the way to the right so the material tray will not hit it.
# Slide out the material tray so that the cutting material can be loaded.
# Place the cutting material anywhere on the tray and slide the tray back in. Make sure a click is heard to signify that the tray is in the correct position. There are two places where it will click you want to stop at the first one. The second one is at the very back of the machine and is where the tray goes when using the chuck.
# Close the door.
Performing the cut:
# Insert the USB drive on the right side of the panel. [''not to be confused with the "Key Switch key"'']
# Using the touch screen, press [New Job] > your file name > [Select Job]. A preview window will then open up where the model can be checked to make sure everything is correct.
# Hit the green checkmark to exit the preview.
# Hit the green checkmark again to move to the next step.
# Set the origin by moving the x and y slider bars. The laser head will move with the sliders and the exact position can be seen by the red guide laser. The location of the red dot will be the origin used in the FabCreater software and it should be placed where the use of material can be maximized (usually the corner of the material, furthest away from the chuck.).
# Press [Run Job] on the touchscreen.
# Press the [Start] button to the top of the touchscreen to begin the cut.
# Once the cut is completed wait a minute or so to let fumes dissipate and the material to cool.
# Remove the material from the machine using the door on the front.

== Safety ==
*Laser cutting or engraving of many materials can create hazardous fumes. These fumes may be dangerous to breathe and can damage the FabLight. Consult Manufacturer’s Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for all materials before laser cutting. The user of the FabLight is responsible for exhaust ventilation and removing cutting fumes from the working area. Before operating the FabLight, make sure that the exhaust system working properly.
*There are often sharp edges left on the material from the cutting process. Be careful handling a fresh cut piece and use the deburring tools to remove any sharp edges.
*On a similar note a fresh cut piece is usually hot so check the temperature with the back of your hand before picking it up.
*Regular operation can start fires! Be wary.
*Before opening any covers, turn off the machine to make sure no cutting operations will happen while you are handling the inside the the laser cutter. Be safe kids.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31417 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
* The job runs but machine does not cut. Most likely the dry run process selected. Toggle dry run off.
* The machine does not cut, many sparks visible. The process table is not set correctly or the cutting head or optics are dirty. Ensure correct focal offset, cut speed, cut height, and gas pressure in process table. Check that the nozzle tip is clean, wipe off slag with Scotchbrite.
* Machine loses cut so that there crooked lines and gaps in the part. Again this is because the process table parameters14896
* incorrect or the cutting head/optics are dirty. Verify cut process parameters including cut speed, cut height, and gas pressure. Check nozzle tip is clean, wipe off slag with Scotchbrite.
* Cut does not go all the way through material. Select correct process. Reduce cut speed. Increase assist gas pressure up to 145 PSI. Verify process table is correct. Verify beam centering and focus test. Inspect nozzle tip.
* If your machine has a rotary you may encounter two homing errors. If the touchscreen says, “Idler (the chuck that holds the right side of the tube) not homed. Move idler to home”, open the door and move the idler all the way to the right. There is a sensor that detects when the idler is in its home position. Once the idler is in the home position, close the message and repress HOME THE MACHINE. If you encounter an error message saying that the rotary is locked; simply pull out the red pin, close the message, and repress HOME THE MACHINE.
==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Just like any other machine tool, the FabLight must be cleaned regularly for optimal performance. Lack of regular preventative maintenance (PM) will lead to damaged machine components, a reduction in part quality, and machine downtime. Cleaning the entire machine takes on average 10 minutes to complete and is easy to do with a single person. Even if the machine does not appear to be dirty, over time metal particles can build up; for optimum machine performance you must adhere to the recommended PM schedule, even if the machine “does not appear to be dirty.”

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|General Cleaning
|Every 1-2 Weeks depending on usage rate
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Clean Window
|Once a month
|Ace
|
|-
|3
|Lubricate drawer slides
|Quarterly
|Ace
|
|-
|4
|Apply WD-40 to rails
|Quarterly
|Ace
|
|-
|5
|Empty clean out drawer
|Once a month
|Ace
|
|}
# Vacuum out entire machine and wipe down the encoder strips with a paper towel. See [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHSUXOYKm5Y&feature=youtu.be this video] for details. Also wipe off the cutting head with a paper towel.
# Wipe down the inside of the window with a microfiber cloth, not the vacuum or a paper towel.
# Apply grease to the drawer slides to keep them operating smoothly.
# Spray the rails with WD-40 to lubricate and keep them clean.
# Open the drawer, remove any large parts by hand, and then vacuum out the rest.

F370 3D Printer

2019-09-25T18:33:17Z

Czickefoose: /* Overview */

[[File:..f370.jpg|thumb|412x412px]]
{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=
|Has icondesc=
|Has image=
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Stratasys
|Has model=F370
|Has group=Prototype Lab
|Has ace=Brett Friedrichsen;bfriedrichsen17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:F370 3D printer.png|left|100x100px|frameless]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The F370 is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] (fused deposit modeling) printer made by Stratasys. It is capable of producing highly accurate parts, whether for prototyping or functional use. The F370 shares the same brand and concept as the [[Dimension 3D Printer|Dimension]] printer, but with subtle differences in operation and maintenance. The F370 boasts the largest build plate in the Prototype lab. Combined with its high accuracy and consistency, the F370 can be left overnight to print multiple parts prepared throughout the day with little worry about print failures.

The Stratasys printers utilize dissolving support material that leaves no surface damage from breaking off supports and allows for creative parts that are impossible on other printers. This printer is a great option for highly detailed or complex parts, parts containing holes that require high tolerances, parts that take advantage of the dissolving support material, bulk prints, or overflow from the Prusa printers when they are full. Currently, the Prototype Lab has two F370 printers available for use.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

<gallery>
File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|Touchscreen
File:...storageDrawer.png|Storage Drawer
File:...materialBayDrawer.png|Material Bay Drawer
File:...buildPlate.jpg|Build Plate
File:...materialSpool.jpg|Material Spool
</gallery>

[https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/f123 Product Home Page]

[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/User-Guide/F123%20Series%20User%20Guide_d/ User Guide]

[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/Operation-Guide/F123_Series_Operation%20and%20Maintenance_REV_A.pdf/ Operation and Maintenance Manual]

[https://help.grabcad.com/ GrabCAD Help Page]

==Training==
====Overview====

The basic workflow for using the F370 will be as follows: Preparing the Printer, Preparing Your File for Print, Printing Your Part, Soaking Your Part. First, you prepare the printer so that it is physically ready to print any design you give it. Second, you prepare the part on the software used by the F370. This generates a file that tells the machine how to produce your part. Third, the machine prints your part. Fourth, you soak the part in the bath so that it dissolves all the support material. Then you have a finished part! Each section below will have specific information relevant to each step. You are encouraged to speak with a lab volunteer for advice and guidance for any step of the process.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the F370, students will bring in a part, prepare it on the machine, print it, and soak it in the support bath.

====General Procedure====
# Preparing the F370
## Powering on the Printer
### The F370 can be powered on by pressing the large power button next to the touch screen console on the front of the printer. The printer may take up to 15 minutes to boot up, so do this step first if you plan to print soon.
## Before you can open your part in GrabCAD, make sure your part is in the '''.'''STL format.
## Acceptable Prints
### The maximum part size is 14 x 10 x 14 inches, or 35.56 x 25.4 x 35.56 centimeters, because that is how large the build plate is. Any part that is larger should be shown to a lab volunteer to discuss options.
### Generally, a part will be fit for the F370 if it is highly detailed and/or has holes that require fairly high tolerances. If it is a small, detailed part, a Form 2 printer should suffice. If the part is quick and simple, a Prusa will likely suffice.
### If your part is designed to take advantage of the dissolving support material the Stratasys machines use, then verify with a lab volunteer that it will be okay to print.
### Even if you are certain your part belongs on the F370, double check with a lab volunteer before you add it to the pack. Their goal is to help you, but the Prototype Lab would like to avoid excessively expensive and/or unnecessary prints.
# Preparing the file: GrabCAD
## GrabCAD Print is the software shared by both F370s. It allows one to easily orient and view the part that needs to be printed. Both printers are web based, which allows one to start the print from the one of the lab's computers. '''Give yourself a few days before your project is due to print on either F370.''' Prints will generally be started when a tray is full or by a lab volunteer at the end of a day. It is unlikely your print will be started just because you waited until the last minute. Be proactive.
## On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you navigate to the bottom right of the screen and select the menu next to "Print." Select the printer you want to use; in this case, the F370, which will appear as "f370D30365". The volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best.
## To begin preparing your part, click on "Add Models". This is how you import your file into GrabCAD. '''Your file must be in .stl format.''' After you have added your part, you can begin preparing it to be printed. Multiple models can be added to the project. Additionally, models can be placed on new trays if the current one runs out of space.[[File:Icons.png|300x300px|none|thumb]]
## Notice that once a part has been added, an hourglass shaped tower will appear next to your part and scale with the size of your part. This is called a "purge tower" and is where a printer expels excess material upon switching filaments. The purge tower can be moved around on the plate as needed, but cannot be rotated. To move your part on the plate, one can simply click and drag to place it where they want to be printed. Keep in mind that the build plate is to scale, where you place it in the software will be where it prints in reality.
## To change how one is viewing the plate, hold on the middle mouse button and drag to move the plate, or click and hold the right mouse button to orient the angle the plate is viewed from. There are also icons on top to choose various viewpoints, such as an isometric view, top, left, etc. The icons on the right side of the screen are your print options. All of the options are intuitive, but you are still encouraged to practice manipulating your part so you understand how to use each function. The top three 'icons are different views, starting from a normal Model View, which is roughly how your part will appear when done.
## Analysis Mode shows faulty areas of a part, and Slice Preview shows model material and support material in the part. Below the Slice Preview Icon is the Model Info, where you can change the units of a selected part if needed.
## Next is Print Settings, which will be addressed below. The Arrange icon automatically arranges parts to optimize print time. Orient allows one to either let the software orient the part, orient a particular face to a plane, or rotate the model on the XYZ axis. Lastly, the Scale icon gives the option to change the size of the model, either with uniform scaling or on a particular axis. It also gives you the part dimension for each axis.
## '''You MUST print your part with "Sparse - low density" fill.''' It is expensive to print with Stratasys materials, thus you must consult a lab volunteer if you have a part you feel needs a denser fill. All of standard settings generally do not need to be changed.[[File:Density.png|thumb|none|300x300px]]
## If you would like more information on specifics, head to the GrabCAD website's [https://help.grabcad.com/article/199-take-a-quick-tour Help Center] for further details and tips, guides, or answers to FAQs. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw This] video contains a basic rundown of GrabCAD. Remember that the lab volunteers are available to answer your questions or provide assistance.
## ??
# Printing the part: F370 Touchscreen Operation
## After your part has been prepared, save the project before continuing. Generally, you will not start the print in the lab itself, since a volunteer will start it when a tray is full or when the day ends, but the workflow is as follows.
## Select "Print." The software will prepare the print. For larger packs, this may take several minutes, but usually takes around 30 seconds. If a print is currently ongoing, a bar across the top will read, "Print job queued successfully."
## Once your part has been prepared, you can click on on "View Estimates" in the bottom right-hand corner. You will see print time and the amount of model and support material that will be used, in cubic inches (in^3). This is an example of what the tray estimation page looks like. The model and support material used can be input into the Job Log in the lab.[[File:Estimate.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
## Touchscreen operation on the F370 is highly intuitive. In the image below, the four icons on the left are as follows:
### Home - Displays the current tray to be printed. If a print is in progress, it will display how much time is left in the print and what is being printed. After a few minutes, a screen saver will switch between displaying which layer is being printed and how much time is left on the current print.
### Queue - Shows which trays are queued. This can also be viewed in GrabCAD.
### Materials - Display which material trays contain material, what kind of material is in the F370, and how much material is left. It also displays tip temperature for each respective material.
### Tools - The last menu has various settings and functions for the printer. One of the icons in this menu will be a sun, which turns the light inside the printer on and off so a print can be viewed. Otherwise, do not mess with or change settings without speaking to a volunteer first. [[File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|none|thumb]]
### To start your print, the image above shows the home screen for the console. If a build plate is in place, the F370 has sufficient materials, and the correct tray is displayed, simply select "Print" and the print will begin.
# Soaking the part: Dissolvable Support Bath
## You will need to soak your finished part in the Dissolvable Support Bath in order to remove the support material. Much of it can be removed with pliers, but the remainder needs to be taken care of with the bath.
## For more information, see the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] page. This section will contain basic information on what to do with the parts and bath, with basic safety info (gloves, goggles, washing yourself, spill, etc) and "see bath page for more detailed information" on particular topics.
# Build Plates
## F370 build plates are reusable, but when parts are removed from the plate, they often leave layers of support material that are extremely difficult to remove, rendering that part of the plate unusable. If a large pack or part is queued and a new plate is required for a print, go ahead and use a new plate. If a print or pack is smaller and can be printed without interference from unusable parts of a plate, try your best to reuse plates.

==Safety==
# When you are removing the support material by hand, it can be a little hot and sharp to begin with. Using a tool of some sort to chip it off is a good way to go, because hands bleed and tools don't :)
# When using the dissolvable support bath, do not use your bare hands to put your parts in! it is Sodium Hydroxide which is toxic! Use goggles, a lab coat, and the huge thick rubber gloves so that you don't get any on you.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31282 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# If GrabCAD says printer isn't available, then it is not started up. Make sure the printer has been on for a while so it can connect to the network appropriately.
# It may take a while to start the print if your printer was just recently used. It can take 2 hours to heat up before the printing the job begins.
# Make sure you have enough material in the material bay to complete the print before you begin.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

There are a few things students and the ace will need to do while performing maintenance tasks or the F370.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Changing Materials
|When the amount of material gets low
|Volunteer
|-
|Removing Material from Build Plate
|After every print
|Student
|}
# Changing Materials (Loading Filament Spools)
## Only volunteers will change out materials. If the F370 runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.
## There are four material bays within the F370. The top drawer houses the material bays and their material drive controller, which feeds the filament from the bay to the head. '''The material drive controller detects whether material is in the material drive during the load and unload process and it can also detect errors, when filament is broken, or when the end of the spool is reached via a filament present switch. [''This sentence needs to be revised by someone that understands the details of the "material drive] [I gave it a try, probably needs an expert to review - CZ]''''' The print will be paused if any of these things occur so the print can be recovered and filament reloaded.
## Select the '''Materials''' button from the touchscreen.
## Open the material bay drawer. That is the biggest drawer on the bottom half of the F370.
## Insert the material spool into its appropriate slot. In the Prototype Lab, the two bays on the left will contain model material, while the bays on the right will contain support material.
### Pull up on the latch securing the lid and open the lid.
### Place the material spool into the slot. Make sure the filament tail is facing the back wall of the material bay (printer side).
### Once the spool is inserted, the Material Status icon will display a solid yellow border with a notification badge above the icon.
## Open the Materials Details page by tapping on the status icon for the bay you are loading material into.
## Slowly turn the spool and feed filament through the filament hole.
### The filament needs to be advanced approximately 2 inches to reach the filament present switch. When the switch is reached, the Load button will refresh into a selectable state.
### When feeding filament, be careful to ensure that filament does not fall over the edge of the spool to avoid cross-winding and/or load errors.
## Once the filament present switch detects filament, select the Load icon.
## Press the Back button within the Material Details page to exit and return to the Materials page.
## Material will begin to load and the F370 will take care of the rest, automatically heating both the oven and liquefier tip to the correct temperatures for the material being used.
## Once the tip is within three degrees of the set point temperature the head moves to the purge area and the tip purges a small amount of material.
## Once material is loaded, the filament pathway between the Material Status Icon and the corresponding Head Status Icon will be solid blue, the Head Status Icon will turn from gray to blue, and the Material Status Icon will display a solid blue border.

__TOC__

F370 3D Printer

2019-09-25T18:01:00Z

Czickefoose: changed wording

[[File:..f370.jpg|thumb|412x412px]]
{{#set:
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|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=
|Has icondesc=
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|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Stratasys
|Has model=F370
|Has group=Prototype Lab
|Has ace=Brett Friedrichsen;bfriedrichsen17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:F370 3D printer.png|left|100x100px|frameless]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The F370 is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] (fused deposit modeling) printer made by Stratasys. It is capable of producing highly accurate parts, whether for prototyping or functional use. The F370 shares the same brand and concept as the [[Dimension 3D Printer|Dimension]] printer, but with subtle differences in operation and maintenance. The F370 boasts the largest build plate in the Prototype lab. Combined with its high accuracy and consistency, the F370 can be left overnight to print multiple parts prepared throughout the day with little worry about print failures.

The Stratasys printers utilize dissolving support material that leaves no surface damage from breaking off supports and allows for creative parts that are impossible on other printers. This printer is a great option for highly detailed or complex parts, parts containing holes that require high tolerances, parts that take advantage of the dissolving support material, bulk prints, or overflow from the Prusa printers when they are full. Currently, the Prototype Lab has two F370 printers available for use.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

<gallery>
File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|Touchscreen
File:...storageDrawer.png|Storage Drawer
File:...materialBayDrawer.png|Material Bay Drawer
File:...buildPlate.jpg|Build Plate
File:...materialSpool.jpg|Material Spool
</gallery>

[https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/f123 Product Home Page]

[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/User-Guide/F123%20Series%20User%20Guide_d/ User Guide]

[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/Operation-Guide/F123_Series_Operation%20and%20Maintenance_REV_A.pdf/ Operation and Maintenance Manual]

[https://help.grabcad.com/ GrabCAD Help Page]

==Training==
====Overview====

The basic workflow for using the F370 will be as follows: Preparing the Printer, Preparing Your File for Print, Printing Your Part, Soaking Your Part. First, you prepare the printer so that it is physically ready to print any design you give it. Second, you prepare the part on the software used by the F370. This generates a file to that tells the machine how to produce your part. Third, the machine prints your part. Fourth, you soak the part in the bath so that it dissolves all the support material. Then you have a finished part! Each section below will have specific information relevant to each step. You are encouraged to speak with a lab volunteer for advice and guidance for any step of the process.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the F370, students will bring in a part, prepare it on the machine, print it, and soak it in the support bath.

====General Procedure====
# Preparing the F370
## Powering on the Printer
### The F370 can be powered on by pressing the large power button next to the touch screen console on the front of the printer. The printer may take up to 15 minutes to boot up, so do this step first if you plan to print soon.
## Before you can open your part in GrabCAD, make sure your part is in the '''.'''STL format.
## Acceptable Prints
### The maximum part size is 14 x 10 x 14 inches, or 35.56 x 25.4 x 35.56 centimeters, because that is how large the build plate is. Any part that large should be shown to a lab volunteer to discuss options.
### Generally, a part will be fit for the F370 if it is highly detailed and/or has holes that require fairly high tolerances. If it is a small, detailed part, a Form 2 printer should suffice. If the part is quick and simple, a Prusa will likely suffice.
### If your part is designed to take advantage of the dissolving support material the Stratasys machines use, then verify with a lab volunteer that it will be okay to print.
### Even if you are certain your part belongs on the F370, double check with a lab volunteer before you add it to the pack. Their goal is to help you, but the Prototype Lab would like to avoid excessively expensive and/or unnecessary prints.
# Preparing the file: GrabCAD
## GrabCAD Print is the software shared by both F370s. It allows one to easily orient and view the part that needs to be printed. Both printers are web based, which allows one to start the print from the one of the lab's computers. '''Give yourself a few days before your project is due to print on either F370.''' Prints will generally be started when a tray is full or by a lab volunteer at the end of a day. It is unlikely your print will be started just because you waited until the last minute. Be proactive.
## On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you navigate to the bottom right of the screen and select the menu next to "Print." Select the printer you want to use; in this case, the F370, which will appear as "f370D30365". The volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best.
## To begin preparing your part, click on "Add Models". This is how you import your file into GrabCAD. '''Your file must be in .stl format.''' After you have added your part, you can begin preparing it to be printed. Multiple models can be added to the project. Additionally, models can be placed on new trays if the current one runs out of space.[[File:Icons.png|300x300px|none|thumb]]
## Notice that once a part has been added, an hourglass shaped tower will appear next to your part and scale with the size of your part. This is called a "purge tower" and is where a printer expels excess material upon switching filaments. The purge tower can be moved around on the plate as needed, but cannot be rotated. To move your part on the plate, one can simply click and drag to place it where they want to be printed. Keep in mind that the build plate is to scale, where you place it in the software will be where it prints in reality.
## To change how one is viewing the plate, hold on the middle mouse button and drag to move the plate, or click and hold the right mouse button to orient the angle the plate is viewed from. There are also icons on top to choose various viewpoints, such as an isometric view, top, left, etc. The icons on the right side of the screen are your print options. All of the options are intuitive, but you are still encouraged to practice manipulating your part so you understand how to use each function. The top three 'icons are different views, starting from a normal Model View, which is roughly how your part will appear when done.
## Analysis Mode shows faulty areas of a part, and Slice Preview shows model material and support material in the part. Below the Slice Preview Icon is the Model Info, where you can change the units of a selected part if needed.
## Next is Print Settings, which will be addressed below. The Arrange icon automatically arranges parts to optimize print time. Orient allows one to either let the software orient the part, orient a particular face to a plane, or rotate the model on the XYZ axis. Lastly, the Scale icon gives the option to change the size of the model, either with uniform scaling or on a particular axis. It also gives you the part dimension for each axis.
## '''You MUST print your part with "Sparse - low density" fill.''' It is expensive to print with Stratasys materials, thus you must consult a lab volunteer if you have a part you feel needs a denser fill. All of standard settings generally do not need to be changed.[[File:Density.png|thumb|none|300x300px]]
## If you would like more information on specifics, head to the GrabCAD website's [https://help.grabcad.com/article/199-take-a-quick-tour Help Center] for further details and tips, guides, or answers to FAQs. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw This] video contains a basic rundown of GrabCAD. Remember that the lab volunteers are available to answer your questions or provide assistance.
##
# Printing the part: F370 Touchscreen Operation
## After your part has been prepared, save the project before continuing. Generally, you will not start the print in the lab itself, since a volunteer will start it when a tray is full or when the day ends, but the workflow is as follows.
## Select "Print." The software will prepare the print. For larger packs, this may take several minutes, but usually takes around 30 seconds. If a print is currently ongoing, a bar across the top will read, "Print job queued successfully."
## Once your part has been prepared, you can click on on "View Estimates" in the bottom right-hand corner. You will see print time and the amount of model and support material that will be used, in cubic inches (in^3). This is an example of what the tray estimation page looks like. The model and support material used can be input into the Job Log in the lab.[[File:Estimate.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
## Touchscreen operation on the F370 is highly intuitive. In the image below, the four icons on the left are as follows:
### Home - Displays the current tray to be printed. If a print is in progress, it will display how much time is left in the print and what is being printed. After a few minutes, a screen saver will switch between displaying which layer is being printed and how much time is left on the current print.
### Queue - Shows which trays are queued. This can also be viewed in GrabCAD.
### Materials - Display which material trays contain material, what kind of material is in the F370, and how much material is left. It also displays tip temperature for each respective material.
### Tools - The last menu has various settings and functions for the printer. One of the icons in this menu will be a sun, which turns the light inside the printer on and off so a print can be viewed. Otherwise, do not mess with or change settings without speaking to a volunteer first. [[File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|none|thumb]]
### To start your print, the image above shows the home screen for the console. If a build plate is in place, the F370 has sufficient materials, and the correct tray is displayed, simply select "Print" and the print will begin.
# Soaking the part: Dissolvable Support Bath
## You will need to soak your finished part in the Dissolvable Support Bath in order to remove the support material. Much of it can be removed with pliers, but the remainder needs to be taken care of with the bath.
## For more information, see the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] page. This section will contain basic information on what to do with the parts and bath, with basic safety info (gloves, goggles, washing yourself, spill, etc) and "see bath page for more detailed information" on particular topics.
# Build Plates
## F370 build plates are reusable, but when parts are removed from the plate, they often leave layers of support material that are extremely difficult to remove, rendering that part of the plate unusable. If a large pack or part is queued and a new plate is required for a print, go ahead and use a new plate. If a print or pack is smaller and can be printed without interference from unusable parts of a plate, try your best to reuse plates.

==Safety==
# When you are removing the support material by hand, it can be a little hot and sharp to begin with. Using a tool of some sort to chip it off is a good way to go, because hands bleed and tools don't :)
# When using the dissolvable support bath is used, do not use your bare hands to put your parts in! it is Sodium Hydroxide which is toxic! Use goggles, a lab coat, and the huge thick rubber gloves so that you don't get any on you.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31282 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# If GrabCAD says printer isn't available, then it is not started up. Make sure the printer has been on for a while so it can connect to the network appropriately.
# It may take a while to start the print if your printer was just recently used. It can take 2 hours to heat up before the printing the job begins.
# Make sure you have enough material in the material bay to complete the print before you begin.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

There are a few things students and the ace will need to do while performing maintenance tasks or the F370.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Changing Materials
|When the amount of material gets low
|Volunteer
|-
|Removing Material from Build Plate
|After every print
|Student
|}
# Changing Materials (Loading Filament Spools)
## Only volunteers will change out materials. If the F370 runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.
## There are four material bays within the F370. The top drawer houses the material bays and their material drive controller, which feeds the filament from the bay to the head. '''The material drive controller detects whether material within the material drive within the material drive during the load and unload process and can also detect errors, when filament is broken, or when the end of the spool is reached via a filament present switch. [''This sentence needs to be revised by someone that understands the details of the "material drive]''''' The print will be paused if any of these things occur so the print can be recovered and filament reloaded.
## Select the '''Materials''' button from the touchscreen.
## Open the material bay drawer. That is the biggest drawer on the bottom half of the F370.
## Insert the material spool into its appropriate slot. In the Prototype Lab, the two bays on the left will contain model material, while the bays on the right will contain support material.
### Pull up on the latch securing the lid and open the lid.
### Place the material spool into the slot. Make sure the filament tail is facing the back wall of the material bay (printer side).
### Once the spool is inserted, the Material Status icon will display a solid yellow border with a notification badge above the icon.
## Open the Materials Details page by tapping on the status icon for the bay you are loading material into.
## Slowly turn the spool and feed filament through the filament hole.
### The filament needs to be advanced approximately 2 inches to reach the filament present switch. When the switch is reached, the Load button will refresh into a selectable state.
### When feeding filament, be careful to ensure that filament does not fall over the edge of the spool to avoid cross-winding and/or load errors.
## Once the filament present switch detects filament, select the Load icon.
## Press the Back button within the Material Details page to exit and return to the Materials page.
## Material will begin to load and the F370 will take care of the rest, automatically heating both the oven and liquefier tip to the correct temperatures for the material being used.
## Once the tip is within three degrees of the set point temperature the head moves to the purge area and the tip purges a small amount of material.
## Once material is loaded, the filament pathway between the Material Status Icon and the corresponding Head Status Icon will be solid blue, the Head Status Icon will turn from gray to blue, and the Material Status Icon will display a solid blue border.

__TOC__

Dissolvable Support Bath

2019-09-25T17:47:30Z

Czickefoose: Paragraph made consistent in outline

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|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
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|Has image=File:Basic Bath.jpg
|Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=
|Has make=Haake
|Has model=W45, DL 30 Thermo
|Has ace=Gabi Lorenzo;glorenzo16@georgefox.edu
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
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Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

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==Description==

The Dissolvable Support Bath is a Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath. It is used in conjunction with both Stratasys [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] 3D printers. Since these printers use QRS support material, the support can be dissolved in a heated, agitated, diluted solution of Sodium Hydroxide. Sodium Hydroxide can be dangerous when handled incorrectly, therefore there are various safety procedures associated with the use of the Dissolvable Support Bath. Below is a video of an alcohol dissolvable support bath which is not as toxic but functions the same.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gonTiHbIRGg}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet

==== User Manual ====
[https://www.massetrecovery.com/Pictures11/dc30.pdf Instruction Manual] for the Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath.

==Training==
====Overview====
Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath.

====Demonstration====

Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath.

====General Procedure====
[[File:Bath_Controls.jpg|227x227px|thumb| # Bath Controls Panel. |link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bath_Controls.jpg]]
# ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).

#Flip the black switch (inside the yellow rectangle) to turn the bath on.
#Then press the button circled in red to start the heating process.
#The red knob (circled in cyan) should always be set to about 85 degrees Celsius.
#Keep the lid shut as often as possible.
#Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.
#*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.
''When removing parts:''
#When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.
#Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.
#Replace the basket and lid.
==Safety==
*Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.
*Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.
*Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of diluted Sodium Hydroxide.
*Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.
*All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.
*All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.
*Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.
*The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.

==Certification==

This Quiz is a part of the F370 Quiz on Foxtale.

==Troubleshooting==
*'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''
**This typically means the bath is low on water (below 1.5 horizontal holes of the basket inside).
**Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is only 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.
**Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.
**The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.
*'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.
**This would mean there is a collection of water inside of the grey catch tray underneath the bath.
*'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''
**Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.
**Use the spill kit.
***Follow instructions inside the kit.
***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|Wipe down the machine
|As neeeded
|Lab Volunteer
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change the Bath Solution
|When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material
|Lab Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles
|If there is only one full bottle remaining
|Lab Volunteer
|}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''
* Wear safety attire during the entire process.
*Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.
*Unscrew the top of drain spout (make sure the drain spout is completely pushed in before unscrewing).
*Swivel the drain spout to face down.
*Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.
*Pull the drain spout out so that the fluid begins to drain.
*Completely drain all of the fluid.
*''Clean the inside of the tank'':
**Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.
**Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.
**Replace the basket.
*Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.
*Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.
*Take a pre-filled bottle of Sodium Hydroxide (located in the thin cabinet underneath the counter the bath sits on) and sprinkle some into the heated water.
*Allow the sprinkled amount to dissolve and repeat until all of the Sodium Hydroxide in the bottle has been dissolved in the bath.
*Refill the Sodium Hydroxide bottle if there is only one filled bottle left.
3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''
* Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.
*There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.

Handheld CNC Router

2019-08-07T17:20:23Z

Czickefoose:

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|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:CNC Hand Router.png
|Has icondesc=
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|Has image=File:Shaper-Origin-Hero-Shot.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Shaper
|Has model=Origin
|Has ace=Nicholas Scianna;nscianna18@georgefox.edu
}}
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The handheld CNC is a relatively small and portable computer automated router that can be moved around a flat, wooden surface. It uses location tracking and a moving spindle to provide an easy way to make precise cuts using a handheld machine which makes it great for performing high precision or detailed cuts. A camera is used to track its location by referencing a special tape which you apply to the surface you want to cut on. The spindle and router bit for the CNC are small, so the CNC is best suited for shallow cuts and engraving work. Despite the shallow cuts, the CNC is still capable of cutting non-shallow material thicknesses, it just means that multiple passes will have to be made.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_0clzXWSaCw}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* SVG - SVG is the file type for the graphics file that the CNC uses for its cuts. SVG stands for “Scalable Vector Graphics” and can be opened/modified with Adobe Illustrator, GIMP, and some others.
* Pocket Cut - The cut setting for hallowing out the center of a shape.
* Shaper Tape - A custom tape with special graphics on it that is used by the router to orient itself in space.
* Spindle - The part of the router that spins.
* Collet - The clamp that secures the router bits.

==== [https://assets.shapertools.com/manual/Shaper_Origin_Product_Manual.pdf User Manual] ====

==Training==
====Overview====
Before a cut can be performed with the handheld CNC router you must provide a cut design in the form of an SVG file. These can be created in several different programs but Inkscape is recommended because it is installed on the hub computers and is free to download onto a personal device. When designing your cut use the actual dimensions of the cut. If it is your first time using Inkscape there are tutorials on [https://inkscape.org/learn/tutorials/ their website] and [https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEQXp_fcqwPcqrzNtWJ1w9w Youtube] as well. Alternatively, you can download SVG from a website like [https://thenounproject.com/ this]. After you have created the cut file transfer it to the router using a USB drive or by uploading it over WiFi. Take the CNC out of the box, set it on a flat, wooden surface, and plug it in. Ensure that the dust collection vacuum is working and has a good seal on the CNC connecting piece. You should never use the CNC without dust collection working! Determine the area on the wood material that you want to cut on and place several strips of tape a bit beyond the width and height of the area you’ll need, with 4-6 inch separation between the tape strips (they don’t need to be straight and parallel, they can be crooked). The CNC uses this tape to manage the CNC’s position. Double check that the correct router bit is secure and in place in the spindle. If the router bit needs to be replaced or secured, make sure that the spindle is turned off and unplugged from the main computer of the router before you take the spindle out of its place. Keep in mind that the switch for the spindle only turns off the spindle, not the CNC computer system. On the touch interface, select the scan mode and create a new scan for the tape. Move the CNC around the surface until all of the (unripped) tape is highlighted blue. It is important to have enough tape, if the CNC loses track of enough tape it will immediately raise the spindle and stop the router from cutting any material. Once you’re ready, go to the cut menu on the CNC’s touch interface and select the correct diameter for your router bit and the depth your want to cut. It will ask you to “touch off”, select yes. Touching off means that the CNC will lower the router until it just touches the surface in order to calibrate the depth control for the router. Select the appropriate cut type (inside, outside, on-line, or pocket) for the cut you will be making. The pocket cut type will cut out the entire area of the shape you have selected. The guide cut type will not act as a cutting line, it will only show on the display as a reference. You can preview the cut size and direction by looking at the direction of the dashed outline and the thicker, grey line on top of the small, dashed line. Double check that the spindle speed (the control wheel to the right of the spindle) is set correctly. Before you make your first cut, double check the tape accuracy by moving the CNC around and watching the tape icon on the top-right of the display. This shows how much tape is visible to the camera, so the more full the tape bar is the better. If it is consistently low, it may be best to add more tape and do a new scan. Once these things have been completed, you should be good to go for cutting! Keep in mind that you may have to do multiple passes to get the right depth and you may also have to change cut type depending on what kind of cut you’re trying to make.

====Demonstration====

For the demonstration, download [https://thenounproject.com/search/?q=bear&i=121661 this file] as an SVG and open it in Inkscape. Download the [https://support.shapertools.com/hc/en-us/articles/115002735794-Using-the-Template SVG template] from Shaper's website and copy that into the previously downloaded image. Use the eyedropper tool and paint can tool to replace the black outline of the bear with the grey color found on the template. Add a black box around the bear to act as an edge to cut through. Make sure that there is enough distance from the box to the bear, as the black line indicates an inside cut (so the router bit will be cutting on the inside of the box). Once finished, delete the template and save the file as an SVG to an SD card. Complete the demonstration by setting up the router and cutting the file.

====General Procedure====
Included in this section are some helpful videos made by Shaper that walk through the entire process of using the router. It is highly recommended that you look through the videos but if you do not then there are instructions walking through the same process.

Setting up the Cut Area:
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdsMOPZFMRQ}}
# Remove the router and from its box.
# Power on the router buy plugging in the device. Do not flip the switch attached to the spindle motor to the on position.
# Place at least three strips of Shaper Tape slightly above the area you want to cut so that the router will be able to orient itself. They do not have to be straight line but do need to be in the same plane.
# Select the new scan option on the router and move the router around the work area until all of the tape is highlighted in blue on the screen. This establishes a work plane that the router can reference during a cut. After you have scanned the tape it will take some time for the router to stitch together the work space in its software. Once it is completed, a screen will appear displaying a cross hare that represents the location of the router bit on the work space. You can also zoom out by double tapping the screen to see the complete work area.
# Select the design option on the right of the screen to move onto setting up the cut.
# Bring the file onto the router. The router is capable of receiving files WiFi using individual Shaper accounts but it is quicker and easier to use a Usb drive to transfer files. If using a Usb drive, plug it into the side of the router and then use the plus symbol on the left of the screen to navigate to your file. After selecting your file, the router should display the work space with the file overlaid on top of it.
# Move the cut file to your desired location and press place to establish where you want to cut on the work space. You can put it in a very precise place by zooming in and matching the edges the cut file and work piece together.
# Install your desired bit. Unscrew the bolt on the right of the spindle just loose enough to remove the spindle. To remove the router bit, press down on the locking mechanism and twist the collet until the router bit can be removed. Make sure that the router bit grooves are not below a quarter inch from the top of the collet. Once a new router bit has been put in place, use the wrench to tighten the collet. Reinsert the spindle into the slot on the CNC and tighten the bolt “finger tight”.
# Hook up the router to the dust collection system (aka the shop vac) using the included hose and the dust port on the router base.
# Press the cut option on the right of the screen and you are ready to cut.
# Make sure that you place a spoil board below the material you are cutting so that you do not cut the table. Also be sure to secure the work piece so that it will not shift while you are routing. There is not a specific way to do this but double sided tape may be helpful.

Performing a Cut:
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DekAjAOIVvQ}}
# Select the air cut type in the upper left of the screen and move the router over top of your first cut line so that the line is highlighted as moving dashed line. This indicates the direction your cut should be made in. Make sure to select your bit size and cut location at this point. The cut location can be on the line, inside the line, or outside the line based on your application. There are other cut settings you can experiment with as well.
# Hit the green button to begin the cut. The cut is indicated by a blue line and the center if the bit is indicated by a white dot. The router can move the bit anywhere within the larger white circle so make sure to keep the cut line within the large circle and the router will take care of the rest.. There is also an auto advance feature that will move the bit forward to the edge of the large circle.
# Run through your air cut until you get a feel for how the router responds and are confident the cut file is correct.
# Change from an air cut to a whatever cut depth you desire. A good rule of thumb is to never cut deeper than 1.5 times the diameter of the cutting tool.
# Make sure the spindle motor is plugged in and the correct bit is selected.
# Press the z touch button on the left of the screen to zero the router bit to the surface of the work piece.
# Set the spindle speed. The spindle speed also be adjusted using the dial on the side of the spindle motor if needed.
# Hit the green button on the handle or press start on the screen to perform the cut.
# Reset the space when finished by vacuuming any dusk, returning the router to its box and putting away any scrap material.
==Safety==
* Remove any adjusting key or wrench before turning the power tool on. A wrench or a key left attached to a rotating part of the power tool may result in personal injury or damage the machine.
* Always use the dust collection system to keep the dust levels in the wood shop from reaching a dangerous level.
* Always hold onto the router while it is cutting. It is a CNC but it is not fastened to anything and could tip over if the bit catches on the material.
* Cut at an appropriate feed rate. If Origin’s correction range is unable to keep up with your feed rate, move Origin slower, reduce the depth of cut, change your router bit, and/or adjust the spindle speed.
* Adhere work piece elements that may come loose during cutting. When cutting items out of work piece materials, use double sided tape or alternative methods to hold elements down to your workbench and/or spoil board. This will prevent items from coming loose when cutting is complete.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31325 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
* Cut is to big or small. The router will cut exactly on the cut line which often results in tight fitting parts. Use the offset option in the cut settings to increase or decrease the cut size by a minimal amount.
* The router keeps losing track of the Shaper Tape during a cut. Try rotating the router during the cut so the camera is always pointing towards the tape. If the problem persists add more tape.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

To keep this machine working properly, wipe off any dust that was collected on it while cutting before putting it away. There is also a chip tray on the front of the router that needs to be cleaned out as it fill up.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|1
|Wipe down the Router
|After each use
|Student
|-
|2
|Clean the chip tray
|When it is close to full
|Student
|}

Formlabs 3D Printer

2019-08-07T17:05:55Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
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|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:formlabs_printer_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Formlabs 3D Printer Icon
|Has iconwname=File:formlabs_printer_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:form-2.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Formlabs Form 2 3D Printer
|Has description=(???)
|Has certification=(???)
|Has group=3D Printers
|Has make=Formlabs
|Has model=Form 2
|Has ace=Josh Lee;jlee17@georgefox.edu
}}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|300px|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Form 2 is Formlab's 3rd generation printer boasting a whole range of new features including a new peeling mechanism, heated tank, touchscreen display, wireless controls and an automated resin system. The resulting prints that come off of the Form 2 have consistently been among the highest quality objects to come off of any desktop 3D printer. This machine is best used with the [[Form Wash and Cure]] <ref name=":0">Description adapted from [https://www.3dhubs.com/3d-printers/form-2 3dhubs].</ref>

The Form 2 employs [[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]] (Stereolithography Apparatus). Due to friction caused by de-laminating every layer, every part should be canted in its orientation. This means the part should be angled in the PreForm software to reduce the cross sectional area needing to be shifted to de-laminate each layer. This ensures the wiper blade in the resin tank doesn't remove the print from the build plate. When reviewing the supports in PreForm, check to make sure all supports are created in areas from which they can be easily removed, or that supports created in inaccessible areas won't interfere with the print's intended function. Also check to make sure no supports are created on hard edges, as any placed supports will break up the edge, and removing them properly takes longer than necessary and can potentially damage the print.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tn5zA5bNSE}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Insert terminology here
<gallery>
File:TouchScreen.jpg|Touchscreen
File:...resinCartridge.jpg|Resin Cartridge
File:...form2BuildPlate.jpg|Build Platform
File:...ResinTray.png|Resin Tank
</gallery>

[https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Quick-Start-Guide?language=en_US Quick Start Guide]

[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/ Product Home Page]

[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/tech-specs/ Tech Specs]

[https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-2/design-specs/ Design Specs]

==Training==
====Overview====

The Form 2 is most useful for its ability to print incredibly accurate parts, with layers as thin as .025mm thick, depending on the resin selected. Due to the size of the Form 2, it can only be used to print smaller pieces, and the extra layering for detail combined with the de-lamination process also causes the Form 2 to generally be the slowest printer in the lab. Unless an exception is made, a model with supports included should be no larger than 30mL worth of resin. If specific material properties are needed for a print, the Form 2 is a good option to look into thanks to the many differing resins available for use.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete understanding of the Form 2, students will prepare a part, upload it to the Form 2, and print it.

====General Procedure====
# Setting up PreForm
## PreForm is the software we will use to import or model to the printer.
## To begin with, make sure the print is under the approved cost/size cutoff ($7), or the person printing has special approval to exceed this limit.
## If a window pops up saying the print is broken, hit the repair button then proceed as normal.
## Parts must be shrunk to fit within the build area, further size edits can be made in the Size tab.
### The goal is to reduce the horizontal area covered with each pass of the wiper. Start with auto-orienting the part using the 'Orient Selected' button in the Orientation tab, this is a good place to start and will make it easier to see if the part needs further orientation.[[File:Size set.jpg|none|thumb| Image 1-Model too big for build plate--Image 2-Model shrunk to fit build plate]]
## Don't place supports on hard edges (right angles) or in inaccessible places. This will cause the print to be unprintable.
## Every part that needs support should have support - PreForm will highlight unsupported areas in red, place supports until the red areas go away. '''Check the part thoroughly because PreForm will not let you print with unsupported areas.'''
## Supports can be added, edited, and removed in the PreForm Supports tab.
### Support density should be between .5 and .7. '''''[Note - Is this a setting or a dimension?]'''''
### Support point size should be between .6mm and .8mm.
### These values can be edited if necessary to ensure printability, just use common sense when adjusting values.
## The Layout tab can be used to add additional copies of a part.
## Ensure the proper printer and resin type are selected in Preform prior to starting the print. Additionally, make sure that the resin you want is already installed in the printers. If the resin needs to be changed to the one that you want, ask a Lab Volunteer to help you.
# Choosing a Resin Type
## Go through each of these resin types to evaluate which material you will make your part out of. Once you have finished, you can send the file from the computer to the Formlabs printer
## Black/grey standard: the Standard Resins section of [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material].
### Pros: high detail, matte surfaces, good for small, intricate features.
### Cons: not particularly strong, stretchy, or flexible.
## Tough: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Tough-Resin?language=en_US Tough]
### Pros: good for hard edges, snap fits, and high-stresses.
### Cons: bad for fine details and rigid prints, will not stretch as much as Durable.
## Durable: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Durable-Resin?language=en_US Durable]
### Pros: low-friction, high impact strength, good for parts that are both rigid and flexible.
### Cons: bad for fine detail parts.
## Flexible: [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Flexible-Resin?language=en_US Flexible]
### Pros: can simulate rubber when uncured, good for functional prototyping.
### Cons: bad for fine detail or applications when rigidity or hardness are required.
## See the respective links for each resin for in-depth descriptions of each resin's properties and suggested applications, or look at [https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Choosing-the-Right-Material?language=en_US Choosing the Right Material] for a shorter overview. Most resins do not handle high temperatures or constant loading well.
# Operating the Touchscreen
## You will be able to start your print using the touchscreen on the Form 2. If it is sleeping, just press the button and it should wake up.
## When it wakes up, you will likely see this screen. It displays the most recently prepared job and gives you the option to print now by pressing the blue button on the bottom right of the screen.[[File:TouchScreen.jpg|none|thumb]]
## There are two other buttons you can press on the left screen. The USB button will take you to the settings of the printer, so you will not need to go here. The checklist button brings a list of every job that has been uploaded to the printer, so you will want to be selecting this one to find your print. When you find your print, select "print now". The printer will make sure that you perform the appropriate setup before it starts printing, such as inserting the tank in the back of the printer and assuring that the build plate is cleared of other printed parts.
## The print will begin its process once you hit Print Now! A time estimate will be provided.
# Removing Prints
## Your part should now be finished! Follow these steps to clean it up.
## Finished prints
### Use a scraping tool to remove the print and any extra material from the build plate, taking care to not scratch the build plate. Go as carefully and as slowly as needed to prevent damaging the print.
#### The build plate stand can be used for easier removal.
### Wash the print in the Form Wash.
### If the print is being cured, only remove support material after it has been run through the Form Cure.
### Supports should be clipped off, and any leftover support material can be sanded down if desired.
## Failed prints
### Follow the same process for finished prints for removing.
### '''When a print fails, the build plate must be cleaned and run through the Wash''' before a new print can be started, as leftover residue from the failed print can cause subsequent prints to also fail. That's bad.
# Washing and Curing Prints
## See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page.
# Changing Resin
## If the Formlabs Printer resin tray does not contain the resin you want, allow Lab volunteers to provide the desired resin.
## Remove, clean, and replace the build plate.
### Pull lever holding build plate in place up, allowing the build plate to be removed.
### Place the build plate on the holding rack in the Form Wash. Run the build plate through the Wash to remove resin. For the build plate, the Wash should be set to 10 minutes.
### Let the build plate air dry before replacing, secure by flipping lever down.
## Remove and replace resin tank and wiper.
### Firmly pull wiper back until it's out of its slot and loose in the resin tank. Leave the wiper in the resin tank, each tank has its own wiper.
### Firmly pull tank back until it pops loose of the printer, put the appropriate lid on the resin tank, and store with wiper in tank.
### Before inserting the new resin tank, remove its lid and store.
### Slot the new resin tank into place in the printer.
### Use a scraping tool to dredge bottom of new resin tank for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, remove any found bits.
### Slot the new tank's wiper into place.
### Be sure to clean up any resin that spills during this process.
## Remove and replace the resin cartridge in the back of the printer.
### Close the lid of the cartridge if it's open.
### Pull cartridge out of the printer.
### Wipe dry the resin drip on the bottom of the cartridge, then store.
### Insert new resin cartridge, '''of the same resin as the tank'''.
### Open lid on resin cartridge before starting a print, and close after.

==Safety==
The most dangerous part of using the Form 2 is taking the part off of the build plate. The scraping tool could hurt your little fingers, so make sure you do not hit them. Also, the alcohol used to clean the print is not for drinking purposes. It is both against the lifestyle contract and very harmful to you if you drink it, so do not do it.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31284 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
If a print fails, the most likely cause is contamination of the resin. Before proceeding, see the procedure for Failed Prints. Contamination of the resin involves leftover material on the build plate, or particulates in the resin tank. Before attempting a new print, thoroughly clean the build plate, and dredge the resin tank for any loose particles. Another cause is incorrect orientation of the print. Check the print file in question, and ensure it has been canted accordingly to prevent the de-laminating process from removing the print from the build plate. '''Don't ever mix resin types.'''

Old resin and resin tanks can also present issues. If a resin tanks is particularly cloudy on the bottom, the laser will be prevented from being able to penetrate the tank, and cause adhesion issues for the print. Resin can also go bad after sitting for long periods of time or being used heavily. This can be evidenced by discoloration of the resin or separation of the resin into unmixed layers.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
# Dredging: Every few prints the resin tank should be dredged with a scraping tool to search for any hardened resin or loose bits of material, as well as when resin tanks are switched out, and when a print fails. Remove any found bits. Dredging is done by sweeping a scraping tool back and forth across the bottom of the resin tank, essentially mixing up the resin to stir up any loose bits. Take care while dredging to not scrape the tank. See a resin's particular page on the Formlabs website for additional cleaning instruction. If the tank is not cleanable, switch out the resin tank. If the problem persists, it's possible the resin cartridge needs to be switched out as well.
# Alcohol in the Form Wash must be changed once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.
# Old resin and resin tanks will occasionally need to be changed out
# [https://support.formlabs.com/hc/en-us/categories/115000003904-Form-2 Form 2 Sources and Help]

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Dredging
|Every few prints
|Lab Volunteer
|-
|Changing Alcohol
|Once a certain threshold of washed-off resin enters the tank. See the [[Form Wash and Cure]] page for details.
|Lab Volunteer
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and after each use. Reset The Space!
|Student
|}

__TOC__

==Resources==
[[Form Wash and Cure]]

[[Prototype Lab#SLA Printing Anchor|SLA Printing]]

Link to shop [[Equipment]] page

<references />

Dissolvable Support Bath

2019-08-07T16:09:00Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Basic Bath.jpg
|Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=
|Has make=Haake
|Has model=W45, DL 30 Thermo
|Has ace=Gabi Lorenzo;glorenzo16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Dissolvable Support Bath is a Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath. It is used in conjunction with both Stratasys [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] 3D printers. Since these printers use QRS support material, the support can be dissolved in a heated, agitated, diluted solution of Sodium Hydroxide. Sodium Hydroxide can be dangerous when handled incorrectly, therefore there are various safety procedures associated with the use of the Dissolvable Support Bath. Below is a video of an alcohol dissolvable support bath which is not as toxic but functions the same.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gonTiHbIRGg}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* MSDS - Material Safety Data Sheet

==== User Manual ====
[https://www.massetrecovery.com/Pictures11/dc30.pdf Instruction Manual] for the Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath.

==Training==
====Overview====
Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath.

====Demonstration====

Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath.

====General Procedure====
[[File:Bath_Controls.jpg|227x227px|thumb| # Bath Controls Panel. |link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bath_Controls.jpg]]
# ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).

#Flip the black switch (inside the yellow rectangle) to turn the bath on.
#Then press the button circled in red to start the heating process.
#The red knob (circled in cyan) should always be set to about 85 degrees Celsius.
#Keep the lid shut as often as possible.
#Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.
#*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.
''When removing parts:''
#When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.
#Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.
#Replace the basket and lid.
==Safety==
*Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.
*Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.
*Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of diluted Sodium Hydroxide.
*Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.
*All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.
*All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.
*Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.
*The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.

==Certification==

This Quiz is a part of the F370 Quiz on Foxtale.

==Troubleshooting==
*'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''
**This typically means the bath is low on water (below 1.5 horizontal holes of the basket inside).
**Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is only 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.
**Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.
**The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.
*'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.
**This would mean there is a collection of water inside of the grey catch tray underneath the bath.
*'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''
**Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.
**Use the spill kit.
***Follow instructions inside the kit.
***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|Wipe down the machine
|As neeeded
|Lab Volunteer
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change the Bath Solution
|When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material
|Lab Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles
|If there is only one full bottle remaining
|Lab Volunteer
|}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''
* Wear safety attire during the entire process.
*Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.
*Unscrew the top of drain spout (make sure the drain spout is completely pushed in before unscrewing).
*Swivel the drain spout to face down.
*Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.
*Pull the drain spout out so that the fluid begins to drain.
*Completely drain all of the fluid.
*''Clean the inside of the tank'':
**Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.
**Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.
**Replace the basket.
*Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.
*Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.
*Take a pre-filled bottle of Sodium Hydroxide (located in the thin cabinet underneath the counter the bath sits on) and sprinkle some into the heated water.
*Allow the sprinkled amount to dissolve and repeat until all of the Sodium Hydroxide in the bottle has been dissolved in the bath.
*Refill the Sodium Hydroxide bottle if there is only one filled bottle left.3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''
* Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.
*There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.

Dissolvable Support Bath

2019-08-07T16:04:09Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Basic Bath.jpg
|Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=
|Has make=Haake
|Has model=W45, DL 30 Thermo
|Has ace=Gabi Lorenzo;glorenzo16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Dissolvable Support Bath is a Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath. It is used in conjunction with both Stratasys [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] 3D printers. Since these printers use QRS support material, the support can be dissolved in a heated, agitated, diluted solution of Sodium Hydroxide. Sodium Hydroxide can be dangerous when handled incorrectly, therefore there are various safety procedures associated with the use of the Dissolvable Support Bath. Below is a video of an alcohol dissolvable support bath which is not as toxic but functions the same.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gonTiHbIRGg}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* There is no unique terminology associated with this machine.

==== User Manual ====
[https://www.massetrecovery.com/Pictures11/dc30.pdf Instruction Manual] for the Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath.

==Training==
====Overview====
Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath.

====Demonstration====

Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath.

====General Procedure====
[[File:Bath_Controls.jpg|227x227px|thumb| # Bath Controls Panel. |link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bath_Controls.jpg]]
# ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).

#Flip the black switch (inside the yellow rectangle) to turn the bath on.
#Then press the button circled in red to start the heating process.
#The red knob (circled in cyan) should always be set to about 85 degrees Celsius.
#Keep the lid shut as often as possible.
#Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.
#*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.
''When removing parts:''
#When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.
#Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.
#Replace the basket and lid.
==Safety==
*Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.
*Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.
*Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of diluted Sodium Hydroxide.
*Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.
*All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.
*All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.
*Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.
*The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to them. The MSDS also details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.

==Certification==

This Quiz is a part of the F370 Quiz on Foxtale.

==Troubleshooting==
*'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''
**This typically means the bath is low on water (below 1.5 horizontal holes of the basket inside).
**Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is only 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.
**Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.
**The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.
*'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.
**This would mean there is a collection of water inside of the grey catch tray underneath the bath.
*'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''
**Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.
**Use the spill kit.
***Follow instructions inside the kit.
***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the Sodium Hydroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new Sodium Hydroxide solution.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|Wipe down the machine
|As neeeded
|Lab Volunteer
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change the Bath Solution
|When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material
|Lab Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles
|If there is only one full bottle remaining
|Lab Volunteer
|}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''
* Wear safety attire during the entire process.
*Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.
*Unscrew the top of drain spout (make sure the drain spout is completely pushed in before unscrewing).
*Swivel the drain spout to face down.
*Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.
*Pull the drain spout out so that the fluid begins to drain.
*Completely drain all of the fluid.
*''Clean the inside of the tank'':
**Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.
**Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.
**Replace the basket.
*Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.
*Turn the bath on and allow it to heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.
*Take a pre-filled bottle of Sodium Hydroxide (located in the thin cabinet underneath the counter the bath sits on) and sprinkle some into the heated water.
*Allow the sprinkled amount to dissolve and repeat until all of the Sodium Hydroxide in the bottle has been dissolved in the bath.
*Refill the Sodium Hydroxide bottle if there is only one filled bottle left.3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''
* Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.
*There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles to the same level as the last remaining bottle. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.

Dissolvable Support Bath

2019-08-07T15:37:42Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:image_pending.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Basic Bath.jpg
|Has imagedesc=This is a Dissolving Support Bath.
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=
|Has make=Haake
|Has model=W45, DL 30 Thermo
|Has ace=Gabi Lorenzo;glorenzo16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

==Description==

The Dissolvable Support Bath is a Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath. It is used in conjunction with both Stratasys [[F370 3D Printer|F370]] 3D printers. Since these printers use QRS support material, the support can be dissolved in a heated, agitated, diluted solution of Sodium Hydroxide. Sodium Hydroxide can be dangerous when handled incorrectly, therefore there are various safety procedures associated with the use of the Dissolvable Support Bath. Below is a video of an alcohol dissolvable support bath which is not as toxic but functions the same.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gonTiHbIRGg}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* There is no unique terminology associated with this machine.

==== User Manual ====
[https://www.massetrecovery.com/Pictures11/dc30.pdf Instruction Manual] for the Thermo Haake DL30 Circulating Bath.

==Training==
====Overview====
Using the Dissolvable support bath is very simple. During the busy times of the semester, the bath will be left on but if it is not on then turn it on using the control panel. Next, wait for the bath to heat up completely and then place your part in it using appropriate safety attire. It may be helpful to place the part in a mesh bag, remove the basket from the bath, and tie the bag to the bottom of the basket to keep the part completely submerged. Periodically check the part until all support has been dissolved. Always wear safety equipment when opening the bath.

====Demonstration====

Use the correct safety procedures to place a printed part in the bath.

====General Procedure====
[[File:Bath_Controls.jpg|227x227px|thumb| # Bath Controls Panel. |link=https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/wiki/File:Bath_Controls.jpg]]
# ALWAYS USE SAFETY ATTIRE (see safety for requirements).

#Flip the black switch (inside the yellow rectangle) to turn the bath on.
#Then press the button circled in red to start the heating process.
#The red knob (circled in cyan) should always be set to about 85 degrees Celsius.
#Keep the lid shut as often as possible.
#Place the part inside of a mesh bag, tie the strings of the mesh bag to the side handles, allow the part to soak in the bath for several hours.
#*Mesh bags are located in the small drawer next to the sink.
''When removing parts:''
#When the soaking step is completed, the basket can be lifted out and removed so that parts can be sifted through in the air instead of the solution. If you do remove basket, remove the lid first and place it in the sink. Next, lift the basket, let it drain above the bath so that it drips into the bath, then once it is barley dripping, the basket can be transferred to the sink.
#Wash the mesh bag and part thoroughly. Use paper towels to dry the part and let the part sit on paper towels and drain for a couple hours. Always inform the part's creator to wash their hands after handling the part and before eating or touching their eyes/face.
#Replace the basket and lid.
==Safety==
*Only Prototype Lab Mentors are allowed to use the Bath for safety concerns.
*Required safety attire is a lab coat, safety goggles, and heat/chemical protecting gloves.
*Only the Ace of the Bath and the Aces of the Prototype Lab (and Justin) are allowed to drain the tank and replenish it with a new solution of diluted Sodium Hydroxide.
*Wash your hands after using the bath and after touching parts that have been removed from the bath within the past 24 hours.
*All parts that come out of the bath should be washed and left to dry/drain excess fluid for at least an hour.
*All spills should be immediately reported to Justin and the Aces of the Prototype Lab.
*Follow the MSDS procedure in the event of getting Sodium Hydroxide on your skin, in your eyes, or if you ingest it.
*The MSDS is located next to the sink in a bright yellow binder hanging on the wall. It includes the fluids the Prototype Lab uses that could be dangerous when humans are exposed to it, and it details what to do if the fluid is ingested, gets in your eyes or on your skin, and other pertinent information.

==Certification==

This Quiz is a part of the F370 Quiz on Foxtale.

==Troubleshooting==
*'''What to do if the bath is beeping:'''
**This typically means the bath is low on water (below 1.5 horizontal holes of the basket inside).
**Take the clear bucket under the sink and use it to fill the bath until the fluid level inside is only 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.
**Tell the Bath Ace if you think the solution should be switched, do not do it yourself.
**The bath may be sending out an error message in which case the Instruction Manual should be consulted.
*'''What to do if the bath appears to be leaking:'''
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab and/or Justin.
**This would mean there is a collection of water inside of the grey catch tray underneath the bath.
*'''What to do in the event of a spill:'''
**Evacuate the lab and shut it down until the spill has been properly cleaned.
**Immediately inform the Aces of the Lab; if unavailable and the spill is large then contact Security.
**Use the spill kit.
***There should be instructions inside.
***Make sure you are wearing safety attire.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Like many machines in the Maker Hub, the bath must be periodically wiped down to keep it clean and working properly. This also removes spots created by the hydrogen peroxide. Also, there is a limit to how much support material can be dissolved and once it has been reached the tank must be emptied and refilled with new hydrogen peroxide solution.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Done
|-
|1
|Wipe down the machine
|As neeeded
|Lab Volunteer
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change the Bath Solution
|When the bath starts taking a very long time to dissolve support material
|Lab Volunteer
|
|-
|3
|Refill Sodium Hydroxide Bottles
|If there is only one full bottle remaining
|Lab Volunteer
|}2. '''How to change the solution in the bath:'''
* Wear safety attire during the entire process.
*Retrieve a barrel to drain the fluid into.
*Unscrew the top of drain spout (make sure the drain spout is completely pushed in before unscrewing).
*Swivel the drain spout to face down.
*Align the barrel opening to be underneath the drain spout.
*Pull the drain spout out so that the fluid begins to drain.
*Completely drain all of the fluid.
*''Clean the inside of the tank'':
**Use water to rinse out the inside of the tank then use paper towels to wipe out the gunk.
**Be sure to also clean the basket thoroughly.
**Replace the basket.
*Fill the bath up with water (use the clear bucket under the sink, fill this with water from the sink, pour the water into the bath) until the water level reaches 1.5 horizontal basket holes from the top.
*Turn the bath on and have it heat up to 70 degrees Celsius.
*Take a pre-filled bottle of Sodium Hydroxide (located in the thin cabinet underneath the counter the bath sits on) and sprinkle some into the heated water.
*Allow the sprinkled amount to dissolve and repeat until all of the Sodium Hydroxide in the bottle has been dissolved in the bath.
*Refill the Sodium Hydroxide bottle if there is only one filled bottle left.3. '''How to fill new Sodium Hydroxide bottles:'''
* Wear a lab coat, nitrile gloves, and safety goggles. This is very important. The granule Sodium Hydroxide (undiluted--undissolved) is much more dangerous.
*There should be a mini funnel in the lab somewhere (it tends to move around some). Use the large Sodium Hydroxide bottle and mini funnel to refill the small bottles up to where the level in the last remaining bottle is. Always leave one bottle filled as a gauge for where to refill to. If a bottle has not been left filled, then fill the small bottle to about 1.5 inches below where the narrowing of the bottle begins.

F370 3D Printer

2019-07-31T18:10:04Z

Czickefoose:

[[File:..f370.jpg|thumb|412x412px]]
{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=
|Has icondesc=
|Has image=
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Stratasys
|Has model=F370
|Has group=Prototype Lab
|Has ace=Brett Friedrichsen;bfriedrichsen17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:F370 3D printer.png|left|100x100px|frameless]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The F370 is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] (fused deposit modeling) printer made by Stratasys. It is capable of producing highly accurate parts, whether for prototyping or functional use. The F370 shares the same brand and concept as the [[Dimension 3D Printer|Dimension]] printer, but with subtle differences in operation and maintenance. The F370 boasts the largest build plate in the Prototype lab. Combined with its high accuracy and consistency, the F370 can be left overnight to print multiple parts from throughout the day with little worry about print failures.

The Stratasys printers utilize dissolving support material that leaves no surface damage from breaking off supports and allows for creative parts that are impossible on other printers. This printer is a great option for highly detailed or complex parts, parts containing holes that require high tolerances, parts that take advantage of the dissolving support material, bulk prints, or overflow from the Prusa printers when they are full. Currently, the Prototype Lab has two F370 printers available for use.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

<gallery>
File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|Touchscreen
File:...storageDrawer.png|Storage Drawer
File:...materialBayDrawer.png|Material Bay Drawer
File:...buildPlate.jpg|Build Plate
File:...materialSpool.jpg|Material Spool
</gallery>

[https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/f123 Product Home Page]

[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/User-Guide/F123%20Series%20User%20Guide_d/ User Guide]

[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/Operation-Guide/F123_Series_Operation%20and%20Maintenance_REV_A.pdf/ Operation and Maintenance Manual]

[https://help.grabcad.com/ GrabCAD Help Page]

==Training==
====Overview====

The basic workflow for using the F370 will be as follows: Preparing the Printer, Preparing Your File for Print, Printing Your Part, Soaking Your Part. First, you prepare the printer so that it is physically ready to print any design you give it. Second, you prepare the part on the software used by the F370. This generates a file to that tells the machine how to produce your part. Third, the machine prints your part. Fourth, you soak the part in the bath so that it dissolves all the support material. Then you have a finished part! Each section below will have specific information relevant to each step. You are encouraged to speak with a lab volunteer for advice and guidance for any step of the process.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the F370, students will bring in a part, prepare it on the machine, print it, and soak it in the support bath.

====General Procedure====
# Preparing the F370
## Powering on the Printer
### The F370 can be powered on by pressing the large power button next to the touch screen console on the front of the printer. The printer may take up to 15 minutes to boot up, so do this step first if you plan to print soon.
## Before you can open your part in GrabCAD, make sure your part is in the '''.'''STL format.
## Acceptable Prints
### The maximum part size is 14 x 10 x 14 inches, or 35.56 x 25.4 x 35.56 centimeters, because that is how large the build plate is. Any part that large should be shown to a lab volunteer to discuss options.
### Generally, a part will be fit for the F370 if it is highly detailed and/or has holes that require fairly high tolerances. If it is a small, detailed part, a Form 2 printer should suffice. If the part is quick and simple, a Prusa will likely suffice.
### If your part is designed to take advantage of the dissolving support material the Stratasys machines use, then verify with a lab volunteer that it will be okay to print.
### Even if you are certain your part belongs on the F370, double check with a lab volunteer before you add it to the pack. Their goal is to help you, but the Prototype Lab would like to avoid excessively expensive and/or unnecessary prints.
# Preparing the file: GrabCAD
## GrabCAD Print is the software shared by both F370s. It allows one to easily orient and view the part that needs to be printed. Both printers are web based, which allows one to start the print from the one of the lab's computers. '''Give yourself a few days before your project is due to print on either F370.''' Prints will generally be started when a tray is full or by a lab volunteer at the end of a day. It is unlikely your print will be started just because you waited until the last minute. Be proactive.
## On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you navigate to the bottom right of the screen and select the menu next to "Print." Select the printer you want to use; in this case, the F370, which will appear as "f370D30365". The volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best.
## To begin preparing your part, click on "Add Models". This is how you import your file into GrabCAD. '''Your file must be in .stl format.''' After you have added your part, you can begin preparing it to be printed. Multiple models can be added to the project. Additionally, models can be placed on new trays if the current one runs out of space.[[File:Icons.png|300x300px|none|thumb]]
## Notice that once a part has been added, an hourglass shaped tower will appear next to your part and scale with the size of your part. This is called a "purge tower" and is where a printer expels excess material upon switching filaments. The purge tower can be moved around on the plate as needed, but cannot be rotated. To move your part on the plate, one can simply click and drag to place it where they want to be printed. Keep in mind that the build plate is to scale, where you place it in the software will be where it prints in reality.
## To change how one is viewing the plate, hold on the middle mouse button and drag to move the plate, or click and hold the right mouse button to orient the angle the plate is viewed from. There are also icons on top to choose various viewpoints, such as an isometric view, top, left, etc. The icons on the right side of the screen are your print options. All of the options are intuitive, but you are still encouraged to practice manipulating your part so you understand how to use each function. The top three 'icons are different views, starting from a normal Model View, which is roughly how your part will appear when done.
## Analysis Mode shows faulty areas of a part, and Slice Preview shows model material and support material in the part. Below the Slice Preview Icon is the Model Info, where you can change the units of a selected part if needed.
## Next is Print Settings, which will be addressed below. The Arrange icon automatically arranges parts to optimize print time. Orient allows one to either let the software orient the part, orient a particular face to a plane, or rotate the model on the XYZ axis. Lastly, the Scale icon gives the option to change the size of the model, either with uniform scaling or on a particular axis. It also gives you the part dimension for each axis.
## '''You MUST print your part with "Sparse - low density" fill.''' It is expensive to print with Stratasys materials, thus you must consult a lab volunteer if you have a part you feel needs a denser fill. All of standard settings generally do not need to be changed.[[File:Density.png|thumb|none|300x300px]]
## If you would like more information on specifics, head to the GrabCAD website's [https://help.grabcad.com/article/199-take-a-quick-tour Help Center] for further details and tips, guides, or answers to FAQs. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw This] video contains a basic rundown of GrabCAD. Remember that the lab volunteers are available to answer your questions or provide assistance.
##
# Printing the part: F370 Touchscreen Operation
## After your part has been prepared, save the project before continuing. Generally, you will not start the print in the lab itself, since a volunteer will start it when a tray is full or when the day ends, but the workflow is as follows.
## Select "Print." The software will prepare the print. For larger packs, this may take several minutes, but usually takes around 30 seconds. If a print is currently ongoing, a bar across the top will read, "Print job queued successfully."
## Once your part has been prepared, you can click on on "View Estimates" in the bottom right-hand corner. You will see print time and the amount of model and support material that will be used, in cubic inches (in^3). This is an example of what the tray estimation page looks like. The model and support material used can be input into the Job Log in the lab.[[File:Estimate.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
## Touchscreen operation on the F370 is highly intuitive. In the image below, the four icons on the left are as follows:
### Home - Displays the current tray to be printed. If a print is in progress, it will display how much time is left in the print and what is being printed. After a few minutes, a screen saver will switch between displaying which layer is being printed and how much time is left on the current print.
### Queue - Shows which trays are queued. This can also be viewed in GrabCAD.
### Materials - Display which material trays contain material, what kind of material is in the F370, and how much material is left. It also displays tip temperature for each respective material.
### Tools - The last menu has various settings and functions for the printer. One of the icons in this menu will be a sun, which turns the light inside the printer on and off so a print can be viewed. Otherwise, do not mess with or change settings without speaking to a volunteer first. [[File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|none|thumb]]
### To start your print, the image above shows the home screen for the console. If a build plate is in place, the F370 has sufficient materials, and the correct tray is displayed, simply select "Print" and the print will begin.
# Soaking the part: Dissolvable Support Bath
## You will need to soak your finished part in the Dissolvable Support Bath in order to remove the support material. Much of it can be removed with pliers, but the remainder needs to be taken care of with the bath.
## For more information, see the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] page. This section will contain basic information on what to do with the parts and bath, with basic safety info (gloves, goggles, washing yourself, spill, etc) and "see bath page for more detailed information" on particular topics.
# Build Plates
## F370 build plates are reusable, but when parts are removed from the plate, they often leave layers of support material that are extremely difficult to remove, rendering that part of the plate unusable. If a large pack or part is queued and a new plate is required for a print, go ahead and use a new plate. If a print or pack is smaller and can be printed without interference from unusable parts of a plate, try your best to reuse plates.

==Safety==
# When you are removing the support material by hand, it can be a little hot and sharp to begin with. Using a tool of some sort to chip it off is a good way to go, because hands bleed and tools don't :)
# When using the dissolvable support bath is used, do not use your bare hands to put your parts in! it is Sodium Hydroxide which is toxic! Use goggles, a lab coat, and the huge thick rubber gloves so that you don't get any on you.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31282 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# If GrabCAD says printer isn't available, then it is not started up. Make sure the printer has been on for a while so it can connect to the network appropriately.
# It may take a while to start the print if your printer was just recently used. It can take 2 hours to heat up before the printing the job begins.
# Make sure you have enough material in the material bay to complete the print before you begin.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

There are a few things students and the ace will need to do while performing maintenance tasks or the F370.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Changing Materials
|When the amount of material gets low
|Volunteer
|-
|Removing Material from Build Plate
|After every print
|Student
|}
# Changing Materials (Loading Filament Spools)
## Only volunteers will change out materials. If the F370 runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.
## There are four material bays within the F370. The top drawer houses the material bays and their material drive controller, which feeds the filament from the bay to the head. '''The material drive controller detects whether material within the material drive within the material drive during the load and unload process and can also detect errors, when filament is broken, or when the end of the spool is reached via a filament present switch. [''This sentence needs to be revised by someone that understands the details of the "material drive]''''' The print will be paused if any of these things occur so the print can be recovered and filament reloaded.
## Select the '''Materials''' button from the touchscreen.
## Open the material bay drawer. That is the biggest drawer on the bottom half of the F370.
## Insert the material spool into its appropriate slot. In the Prototype Lab, the two bays on the left will contain model material, while the bays on the right will contain support material.
### Pull up on the latch securing the lid and open the lid.
### Place the material spool into the slot. Make sure the filament tail is facing the back wall of the material bay (printer side).
### Once the spool is inserted, the Material Status icon will display a solid yellow border with a notification badge above the icon.
## Open the Materials Details page by tapping on the status icon for the bay you are loading material into.
## Slowly turn the spool and feed filament through the filament hole.
### The filament needs to be advanced approximately 2 inches to reach the filament present switch. When the switch is reached, the Load button will refresh into a selectable state.
### When feeding filament, be careful to ensure that filament does not fall over the edge of the spool to avoid cross-winding and/or load errors.
## Once the filament present switch detects filament, select the Load icon.
## Press the Back button within the Material Details page to exit and return to the Materials page.
## Material will begin to load and the F370 will take care of the rest, automatically heating both the oven and liquefier tip to the correct temperatures for the material being used.
## Once the tip is within three degrees of the set point temperature the head moves to the purge area and the tip purges a small amount of material.
## Once material is loaded, the filament pathway between the Material Status Icon and the corresponding Head Status Icon will be solid blue, the Head Status Icon will turn from gray to blue, and the Material Status Icon will display a solid blue border.

__TOC__

F370 3D Printer

2019-07-31T18:08:42Z

Czickefoose:

[[File:..f370.jpg|thumb|412x412px]]
{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=
|Has icondesc=
|Has image=
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Stratasys
|Has model=F370
|Has group=Prototype Lab
|Has ace=Brett Friedrichsen;bfriedrichsen17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:F370 3D printer.png|left|100x100px|frameless]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The F370 is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] (fused deposit modeling) printer made by Stratasys. It is capable of producing highly accurate parts, whether for prototyping or functional use. The F370 shares the same brand and concept as the [[Dimension 3D Printer|Dimension]] printer, but with subtle differences in operation and maintenance. The F370 boasts the largest build plate in the Prototype lab. Combined with its high accuracy and consistency, the F370 can be left overnight to print multiple parts from throughout the day with little worry about print failures.

The Stratasys printers utilize dissolving support material that leaves no surface damage from breaking off supports and allows for creative parts that are impossible on other printers. This printer is a great option for highly detailed or complex parts, parts containing holes that require high tolerances, parts that take advantage of the dissolving support material, bulk prints, or overflow from the Prusa printers when they are full. Currently, the Prototype Lab has two F370 printers available for use.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

<gallery>
File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|Touchscreen
File:...storageDrawer.png|Storage Drawer
File:...materialBayDrawer.png|Material Bay Drawer
File:...buildPlate.jpg|Build Plate
File:...materialSpool.jpg|Material Spool
</gallery>

[https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/f123 Product Home Page]

[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/User-Guide/F123%20Series%20User%20Guide_d/ User Guide]

[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/Operation-Guide/F123_Series_Operation%20and%20Maintenance_REV_A.pdf/ Operation and Maintenance Manual]

[https://help.grabcad.com/ GrabCAD Help Page]

==Training==
====Overview====

The basic workflow for using the F370 will be as follows: Preparing the Printer, Preparing Your File for Print, Printing Your Part, Soaking Your Part. First, you prepare the printer so that it is physically ready to print any design you give it. Second, you prepare the part on the software used by the F370. This generates a file to that tells the machine how to produce your part. Third, the machine prints your part. Fourth, you soak the part in the bath so that it dissolves all the support material. Then you have a finished part! Each section below will have specific information relevant to each step. You are encouraged to speak with a lab volunteer for advice and guidance for any step of the process.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the F370, students will bring in a part, prepare it on the machine, print it, and soak it in the support bath.

====General Procedure====
# Preparing the F370
## Powering on the Printer
### The F370 can be powered on by pressing the large power button next to the touch screen console on the front of the printer. The printer may take up to 15 minutes to boot up, so do this step first if you plan to print soon.
## Before you can open your part in GrabCAD, make sure your part is in the '''.'''STL format.
## Acceptable Prints
### The maximum part size is 14 x 10 x 14 inches, or 35.56 x 25.4 x 35.56 centimeters, because that is how large the build plate is. Any part that large should be shown to a lab volunteer to discuss options.
### Generally, a part will be fit for the F370 if it is highly detailed and/or has holes that require fairly high tolerances. If it is a small, detailed part, a Form 2 printer should suffice. If the part is quick and simple, a Prusa will likely suffice.
### If your part is designed to take advantage of the dissolving support material the Stratasys machines use, then verify with a lab volunteer that it will be okay to print.
### Even if you are certain your part belongs on the F370, double check with a lab volunteer before you add it to the pack. Their goal is to help you, but the Prototype Lab would like to avoid excessively expensive and/or unnecessary prints.
# Preparing the file: GrabCAD
## GrabCAD Print is the software shared by both F370s. It allows one to easily orient and view the part that needs to be printed. Both printers are web based, which allows one to start the print from the one of the lab's computers. '''Give yourself a few days before your project is due to print on either F370.''' Prints will generally be started when a tray is full or by a lab volunteer at the end of a day. It is unlikely your print will be started just because you waited until the last minute. Be proactive.
## On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you navigate to the bottom right of the screen and select the menu next to "Print." Select the printer you want to use; in this case, the F370, which will appear as "f370D30365". The volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best.
## To begin preparing your part, click on "Add Models". This is how you import your file into GrabCAD. '''Your file must be in .stl format.''' After you have added your part, you can begin preparing it to be printed. Multiple models can be added to the project. Additionally, models can be placed on new trays if the current one runs out of space.[[File:Icons.png|300x300px|none|thumb]]
## Notice that once a part has been added, an hourglass shaped tower will appear next to your part and scale with the size of your part. This is called a "purge tower" and is where a printer expels excess material upon switching filaments. The purge tower can be moved around on the plate as needed, but cannot be rotated. To move your part on the plate, one can simply click and drag to place it where they want to be printed. Keep in mind that the build plate is to scale, where you place it in the software will be where it prints in reality.
## To change how one is viewing the plate, hold on the middle mouse button and drag to move the plate, or click and hold the right mouse button to orient the angle the plate is viewed from. There are also icons on top to choose various viewpoints, such as an isometric view, top, left, etc. The icons on the right side of the screen are your print options. All of the options are intuitive, but you are still encouraged to practice manipulating your part so you understand how to use each function. The top three 'icons are different views, starting from a normal Model View, which is roughly how your part will appear when done.
## Analysis Mode shows faulty areas of a part, and Slice Preview shows model material and support material in the part. Below the Slice Preview Icon is the Model Info, where you can change the units of a selected part if needed.
## Next is Print Settings, which will be addressed below. The Arrange icon automatically arranges parts to optimize print time. Orient allows one to either let the software orient the part, orient a particular face to a plane, or rotate the model on the XYZ axis. Lastly, the Scale icon gives the option to change the size of the model, either with uniform scaling or on a particular axis. It also gives you the part dimension for each axis.
## '''You MUST print your part with "Sparse - low density" fill.''' It is expensive to print with Stratasys materials, thus you must consult a lab volunteer if you have a part you feel needs a denser fill. All of standard settings generally do not need to be changed.[[File:Density.png|thumb|none|300x300px]]
## If you would like more information on specifics, head to the GrabCAD website's [https://help.grabcad.com/article/199-take-a-quick-tour Help Center] for further details and tips, guides, or answers to FAQs. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw This] video contains a basic rundown of GrabCAD. Remember that the lab volunteers are available to answer your questions or provide assistance.
##
# Printing the part: F370 Touchscreen Operation
## After your part has been prepared, save the project before continuing. Generally, you will not start the print in the lab itself, since a volunteer will start it when a tray is full or when the day ends, but the workflow is as follows.
## Select "Print." The software will prepare the print. For larger packs, this may take several minutes, but usually takes around 30 seconds. If a print is currently ongoing, a bar across the top will read, "Print job queued successfully."
## Once your part has been prepared, you can click on on "View Estimates" in the bottom right-hand corner. You will see print time and the amount of model and support material that will be used, in cubic inches (in^3). This is an example of what the tray estimation page looks like. The model and support material used can be input into the Job Log in the lab.[[File:Estimate.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
## Touchscreen operation on the F370 is highly intuitive. In the image below, the four icons on the left are as follows:
### Home - Displays the current tray to be printed. If a print is in progress, it will display how much time is left in the print and what is being printed. After a few minutes, a screen saver will switch between displaying which layer is being printed and how much time is left on the current print.
### Queue - Shows which trays are queued. This can also be viewed in GrabCAD.
### Materials - Display which material trays contain material, what kind of material is in the F370, and how much material is left. It also displays tip temperature for each respective material.
### Tools - The last menu has various settings and functions for the printer. One of the icons in this menu will be a sun, which turns the light inside the printer on and off so a print can be viewed. Otherwise, do not mess with or change settings without speaking to a volunteer first. [[File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|none|thumb]]
### To start your print, the image above shows the home screen for the console. If a build plate is in place, the F370 has sufficient materials, and the correct tray is displayed, simply select "Print" and the print will begin.
# Soaking the part: Dissolvable Support Bath
## You will need to soak your finished part in the Dissolvable Support Bath in order to remove the support material. Much of it can be removed with pliers, but the remainder needs to be taken care of with the bath.
## For more information, see the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] page. This section will contain basic information on what to do with the parts and bath, with basic safety info (gloves, goggles, washing yourself, spill, etc) and "see bath page for more detailed information" on particular topics.
# Build Plates
## F370 build plates are reusable, but when parts are removed from the plate, they often leave layers of support material that are extremely difficult to remove, rendering that part of the plate unusable. If a large pack or part is queued and a new plate is required for a print, go ahead and use a new plate. If a print or pack is smaller and can be printed without interference from unusable parts of a plate, try your best to reuse plates.

==Safety==
# When you are removing the support material by hand, it can be a little hot and sharp to begin with. Using a tool of some sort to chip it off is a good way to go, because hands bleed and tools don't :)
# When using the dissolvable support bath is used, do not use your bare hands to put your parts in! it is Sodium Hydroxide which is toxic! Use goggles, a lab coat, and the huge thick rubber gloves so that you don't get any on you.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31282 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# If GrabCAD says printer isn't available, then it is not started up. Make sure the printer has been on for a while so it can connect to the network appropriately.
# It may take a while to start the print if your printer was just recently used. It can take 2 hours to heat up before the printing the job begins.
# Make sure you have enough material in the material bay to complete the print before you begin.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

There are a few things students and the ace will need to do while performing maintenance tasks or the F370.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Changing Materials
|When the amount of material gets low
|Volunteer
|-
|Removing Material from Build Plate
|After every print
|Student
|}
# Changing Materials (Loading Filament Spools)
## Only volunteers will change out materials. If the F370 runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.
## There are four material bays within the F370. The top drawer houses the material bays and their material drive controller, which feeds the filament from the bay to the head. '''The material drive controller detects whether material within the material drive within the material drive during the load and unload process and can also detect errors, when filament is broken, or when the end of the spool is reached via a filament present switch. [''This sentence needs to be revised by someone that understands the details of the "material drive]''''' The print will be paused if any of these things occur so the print can be recovered and filament reloaded.
## Select the '''Materials''' button from the touchscreen.
## Open the material bay drawer. That is the biggest drawer on the bottom half of the F370.
## Insert the material spool into its appropriate slot. In the Prototype Lab, the two bays on the left will contain model material, while the bays on the right will contain support material.
### Pull up on the latch securing the lid and open the lid.
### Place the material spool into the slot. Make sure the filament tail is facing the back wall of the material bay (printer side).
### Once the spool is inserted, the Material Status icon will display a solid yellow border with a notification badge above the icon.
## Open the Materials Details page by tapping on the status icon for the bay you are loading material into.
## Slowly turn the spool and feed filament through the filament hole.
### The filament needs to be advanced approximately 2 inches to reach the filament present switch. When the switch is reached, the Load button will refresh into a selectable state.
### When feeding filament, be careful to ensure that filament does not fall over the edge of the spool to avoid cross-winding and/or load errors.
## Once the filament present switch detects filament, select the Load icon.
## Press the Back button within the Material Details page to exit and return to the Materials page.
## Material will begin to load and the F370 will take care of the rest, automatically heating both the oven and liquefier tip to the correct temperatures for the material being used.
## Once the tip is within three degrees of the set point temperature the head moves to the purge area and the tip purges a small amount of material.
## Once material is loaded, the filament pathway between the Material Status Icon and the corresponding Head Status Icon will be solid blue, the Head Status Icon will turn from gray to blue, and the Material Status Icon will display a solid blue border.

__TOC__

F370 3D Printer

2019-07-31T18:00:23Z

Czickefoose: grammar changes

[[File:..f370.jpg|thumb|412x412px]]
{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=Prototype Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=
|Has icondesc=
|Has image=
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Stratasys
|Has model=F370
|Has group=Prototype Lab
|Has ace=Brett Friedrichsen;bfriedrichsen17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:F370 3D printer.png|left|100x100px|frameless]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The F370 is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] (fused deposit modeling) printer made by Stratasys. It is capable of producing highly accurate parts, whether for prototyping or functional use. The F370 shares the same brand and concept as the [[Dimension 3D Printer|Dimension]] printer, but with subtle differences in operation and maintenance. The F370 boasts the largest build plate in the Prototype lab. Combined with its high accuracy and consistency, the F370 can be left overnight to print multiple parts from throughout the day with little worry about print failures.

The Stratasys printers utilize dissolving support material that leaves no surface damage from breaking off supports and allows for creative parts that are impossible on other printers. This printer is a great option for highly detailed or complex parts, parts containing holes that require high tolerances, parts that take advantage of the dissolving support material, bulk prints, or overflow from the Prusa printers when they are full. Currently, the Prototype Lab has two F370 printers available for use.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

<gallery>
File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|Touchscreen
File:...storageDrawer.png|Storage Drawer
File:...materialBayDrawer.png|Material Bay Drawer
File:...buildPlate.jpg|Build Plate
File:...materialSpool.jpg|Material Spool
</gallery>

[https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/f123 Product Home Page]

[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/User-Guide/F123%20Series%20User%20Guide_d/ User Guide]

[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/Operation-Guide/F123_Series_Operation%20and%20Maintenance_REV_A.pdf/ Operation and Maintenance Manual]

[https://help.grabcad.com/ GrabCAD Help Page]

==Training==
====Overview====

The basic workflow for using the F370 will be as follows: Preparing the Printer, Preparing Your File for Print, Printing Your Part, Soaking Your Part. First, you prepare the printer so that it is physically ready to print any design you give it. Second, you prepare the part on the software used by the F370. This generates a file to that tells the machine how to produce your part. Third, the machine prints your part. Fourth, you soak the part in the bath so that it dissolves all the support material. Then you have a finished part! Each section below will have specific information relevant to each step. You are encouraged to speak with a lab volunteer for advice and guidance for any step of the process.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the F370, students will bring in a part, prepare it on the machine, print it, and soak it in the support bath.

====General Procedure====
# Preparing the F370
## Powering on the Printer
### The F370 can be powered on by pressing the large power button next to the touch screen console on the front of the printer. The printer may take up to 15 minutes to boot up, so do this step first if you plan to print soon.
## Before you can open your part in GrabCAD, make sure your part is in the '''.'''STL format.
## Acceptable Prints
### The maximum part size is 14 x 10 x 14 inches, or 35.56 x 25.4 x 35.56 centimeters, because that is how large the build plate is. Any part that large should be shown to a lab volunteer to discuss options.
### Generally, a part will be fit for the F370 if it is highly detailed and/or has holes that require fairly high tolerances. If it is a small, detailed part, a Form 2 printer should suffice. If the part is quick and simple, a Prusa will likely suffice.
### If your part is designed to take advantage of the dissolving support material the Stratasys machines use, then verify with a lab volunteer that it will be okay to print.
### Even if you are certain your part belongs on the F370, double check with a lab volunteer before you add it to the pack. Their goal is to help you, but the Prototype Lab would like to avoid excessively expensive and/or unnecessary prints.
# Preparing the file: GrabCAD
## GrabCAD Print is the software shared by both F370s. It allows one to easily orient and view the part that needs to be printed. Both printers are web based, which allows one to start the print from the one of the lab's computers. '''Give yourself a few days before your project is due to print on either F370.''' Prints will generally be started when a tray is full or by a lab volunteer at the end of a day. It is unlikely your print will be started just because you waited until the last minute. Be proactive.
## On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you navigate to the bottom right of the screen and select the menu next to "Print." Select the printer you want to use; in this case, the F370, which will appear as "f370D30365". The volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best.
## To begin preparing your part, click on "Add Models". This is how you import your file into GrabCAD. '''Your file must be in .stl format.''' After you have added your part, you can begin preparing it to be printed. Multiple models can be added to the project. Additionally, models can be placed on new trays if the current one runs out of space.[[File:Icons.png|300x300px|none|thumb]]
## Notice that once a part has been added, an hourglass shaped tower will appear next to your part and scale with the size of your part. This is called a "purge tower" and is where a printer expels excess material upon switching filaments. The purge tower can be moved around on the plate as needed, but cannot be rotated. To move your part on the plate, one can simply click and drag to place it where they want to be printed. Keep in mind that the build plate is to scale, where you place it in the software will be where it prints in reality.
## To change how one is viewing the plate, hold on the middle mouse button and drag to move the plate, or click and hold the right mouse button to orient the angle the plate is viewed from. There are also icons on top to choose various viewpoints, such as an isometric view, top, left, etc. The icons on the right side of the screen are your print options. All of the options are intuitive, but you are still encouraged to practice manipulating your part so you understand how to use each function. The top three 'icons are different views, starting from a normal Model View, which is roughly how your part will appear when done.
## Analysis Mode shows faulty areas of a part, and Slice Preview shows model material and support material in the part. Below the Slice Preview Icon is the Model Info, where you can change the units of a selected part if needed.
## Next is Print Settings, which will be addressed below. The Arrange icon automatically arranges parts to optimize print time. Orient allows one to either let the software orient the part, orient a particular face to a plane, or rotate the model on the XYZ axis. Lastly, the Scale icon gives the option to change the size of the model, either with uniform scaling or on a particular axis. It also gives you the part dimension for each axis.
## '''You MUST print your part with "Sparse - low density" fill.''' It is expensive to print with Stratasys materials, thus you must consult a lab volunteer if you have a part you feel needs a denser fill. All of standard settings generally do not need to be changed.[[File:Density.png|thumb|none|300x300px]]
## If you would like more information on specifics, head to the GrabCAD website's [https://help.grabcad.com/article/199-take-a-quick-tour Help Center] for further details and tips, guides, or answers to FAQs. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw This] video contains a basic rundown of GrabCAD. Remember that the lab volunteers are available to answer your questions or provide assistance.
##
# Printing the part: F370 Touchscreen Operation
## After your part has been prepared, save the project before continuing. Generally, you will not start the print in the lab itself, since a volunteer will start it when a tray is full or when the day ends, but the workflow is as follows.
## Select "Print." The software will prepare the print. For larger packs, this may take several minutes, but usually takes around 30 seconds. If a print is currently ongoing, a bar across the top will read, "Print job queued successfully."
## Once your part has been prepared, you can click on on "View Estimates" in the bottom right-hand corner. You will see print time and the amount of model and support material that will be used, in cubic inches (in^3). This is an example of what the tray estimation page looks like. The model and support material used can be input into the Job Log in the lab.[[File:Estimate.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
## Touchscreen operation on the F370 is highly intuitive. In the image below, the four icons on the left are as follows:
### Home - Displays the current tray to be printed. If a print is in progress, it will display how much time is left in the print and what is being printed. After a few minutes, a screen saver will switch between displaying which layer is being printed and how much time is left on the current print.
### Queue - Shows which trays are queued. This can also be viewed in GrabCAD.
### Materials - Display which material trays contain material, what kind of material is in the F370, and how much material is left. It also displays tip temperature for each respective material.
### Tools - The last menu has various settings and functions for the printer. One of the icons in this menu will be a sun, which turns the light inside the printer on and off so a print can be viewed. Otherwise, do not mess with or change settings without speaking to a volunteer first. [[File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|none|thumb]]
### To start your print, the image above shows the home screen for the console. If a build plate is in place, the F370 has sufficient materials, and the correct tray is displayed, simply select "Print" and the print will begin.
# Soaking the part: Dissolvable Support Bath
## You will need to soak your finished part in the Dissolvable Support Bath in order to remove the support material. Much of it can be removed with pliers, but the remainder needs to be taken care of with the bath.
## For more information, see the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] page. This section will contain basic information on what to do with the parts and bath, with basic safety info (gloves, goggles, washing yourself, spill, etc) and "see bath page for more detailed information" on particular topics.
# Build Plates
## F370 build plates are reusable, but when parts are removed from the plate, they often leave layers of support material that are extremely difficult to remove, rendering that part of the plate unusable. If a large pack or part is queued and a new plate is required for a print, go ahead and use a new plate. If a print or pack is smaller and can be printed without interference from unusable parts of a plate, try your best to reuse plates.

==Safety==
# When you are removing the support material by hand, it can be a little hot and sharp to begin with. Using a tool of some sort to chip it off is a good way to go, because hands bleed and tools don't :)
# When using the dissolvable support bath is used, do not use your bare hands to put your parts in! it is Sodium Hydroxide which is toxic! Use goggles, a lab coat, and the huge thick rubber gloves so that you don't get any on you.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31282 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# If GrabCAD says printer isn't available, then it is not started up. Make sure the printer has been on for a while so it can connect to the network appropriately.
# It may take a while to start the print if your printer was just recently used. It can take 2 hours to heat up before the printing the job begins.
# Make sure you have enough material in the material bay to complete the print before you begin.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

There are a few things students and the ace will need to do while performing maintenance tasks or the F370.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Changing Materials
|When the amount of material gets low
|Volunteer
|-
|Removing Material from Build Plate
|After every print
|Student
|}
# Changing Materials (Loading Filament Spools)
## Only volunteers will change out materials. If the F370 runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.
## There are four material bays within the F370. The top drawer houses the material bays and their material drive controller, which feeds the filament from the bay to the head. The material drive controller detects whether material within the material drive within the material drive during the load and unload process and can also detect errors, when filament is broken, or when the end of the spool is reached via a filament present switch. The print will be paused if any of these things occur so the print can be recovered and filament reloaded.
## Select the '''Materials''' button from the touchscreen.
## Open the material bay drawer. That is the biggest drawer on the bottom half of the F370.
## Insert the material spool into its appropriate slot. In the Prototype Lab, the two bays on the left will contain model material, while the bays on the right will contain support material.
### Pull up on the latch securing the lid and open the lid.
### Place the material spool into the slot. Make sure the filament tail is facing the back wall of the material bay (printer side).
### Once the spool is inserted, the Material Status icon will display a solid yellow border with a notification badge above the icon.
## Open the Materials Details page by tapping on the status icon for the bay you are loading material into.
## Slowly turn the spool and feed filament through the filament hole.
### The filament needs to be advanced approximately 2 inches to reach the filament present switch. When the switch is reached, the Load button will refresh into a selectable state.
### When feeding filament, be careful to ensure that filament does not fall over the edge of the spool to avoid cross-winding and/or load errors.
## Once the filament present switch detects filament, select the Load icon.
## Press the Back button within the Material Details page to exit and return to the Materials page.
## Material will begin to load and the F370 will take care of the rest, automatically heating both the oven and liquefier tip to the correct temperatures for the material being used.
## Once the tip is within three degrees of the set point temperature the head moves to the purge area and the tip purges a small amount of material.
## Once material is loaded, the filament pathway between the Material Status Icon and the corresponding Head Status Icon will be solid blue, the Head Status Icon will turn from gray to blue, and the Material Status Icon will display a solid blue border.

__TOC__

F370 3D Printer

2019-07-31T17:42:54Z

Czickefoose: grammatical change

[[File:..f370.jpg|thumb|412x412px]]
{{#set:
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|Has icon=
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|Has certification=
|Has make=Stratasys
|Has model=F370
|Has group=Prototype Lab
|Has ace=Brett Friedrichsen;bfriedrichsen17@georgefox.edu
}}
[[File:F370 3D printer.png|left|100x100px|frameless]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The F370 is an [[Prototype Lab#FDM Printing Anchor|FDM]] (fused deposit modeling) printer made by Stratasys. It is capable of producing highly accurate parts, whether for prototyping or functional use. The F370 shares the same brand and concept as the [[Dimension 3D Printer|Dimension]] printer, but with subtle differences in operation and maintenance. The F370 boasts the largest build plate in the Prototype lab. Combined with its high accuracy and consistency, the F370 can be left overnight to print multiple parts from throughout the day with little worry about print failures.

The Stratasys printers utilize dissolving support material that leaves no surface damage from breaking off supports and allows for creative parts that are impossible on other printers. This printer is a great option for highly detailed or complex parts, parts containing holes that require high tolerances, parts that take advantage of the dissolving support material, bulk prints, or overflow from the Prusa printers when they are full. Currently, the Prototype Lab has two F370 printers available for use.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

<gallery>
File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|Touchscreen
File:...storageDrawer.png|Storage Drawer
File:...materialBayDrawer.png|Material Bay Drawer
File:...buildPlate.jpg|Build Plate
File:...materialSpool.jpg|Material Spool
</gallery>

[https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/f123 Product Home Page]

[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/User-Guide/F123%20Series%20User%20Guide_d/ User Guide]

[http://www.stratasys.com/-/media/files/documentation/fdm/F123-Series/Operation-Guide/F123_Series_Operation%20and%20Maintenance_REV_A.pdf/ Operation and Maintenance Manual]

[https://help.grabcad.com/ GrabCAD Help Page]

==Training==
====Overview====

The basic workflow for using the F370 will be as follows: Preparing the Printer, Preparing Your File for Print, Printing Your Part, Soaking Your Part. First, you prepare the printer so that it is physically ready to print any design you give it. Second, you prepare the part on the software used by the F370. This generates a file to that tells the machine how to produce your part. Third, the machine prints your part. Fourth, you soak the part in the bath so that it disolves all the support material. Then you have a finished part! Each section below will have specific information relevant to each step. You are encouraged to speak with a lab volunteer for advice and guidance for any step of the process.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the F370, students will bring in a part, prepare it on the machine, print it, and soak it in the support bath.

====General Procedure====
# Preparing the F370
## Powering on the Printer
### The F370 can be powered on by pressing the large power button next to the touch screen console on the front of the printer. The printer may take up to 15 minutes to boot up, so do this step first if you plan to print soon.
## Before you can open your part in GrabCAD, make sure your part is in the '''.'''STL format.
## Acceptable Prints
### The maximum part size is 14 x 10 x 14 inches, or 35.56 x 25.4 x 35.56 centimeters, because that is how large the build plate is. Any part that large should be shown to a lab volunteer to discuss options.
### Generally, a part will be fit for the F370 if it is highly detailed and/or has holes that require fairly high tolerances. If it is a small, detailed part, a Form 2 printer should suffice. If the part is quick and simple, a Prusa will likely suffice.
### If your part is designed to take advantage of the dissolving support material the Stratasys machines use, then verify with a lab volunteer that it will be okay to print.
### Even if you are certain your part belongs on the F370, double check with a lab volunteer before you add it to the pack. Their goal is to help you, but the Prototype Lab would like to avoid excessively expensive and/or unnecessary prints.
# Preparing the file: GrabCAD
## GrabCAD Print is the software shared by both F370s. It allows one to easily orient and view the part that needs to be printed. Both printers are web based, which allows one to start the print from the one of the lab's computers. '''Give yourself a few days before your project is due to print on either F370.''' Prints will generally be started when a tray is full or by a lab volunteer at the end of a day. It is unlikely your print will be started just because you waited until the last minute. Be proactive.
## On Opening GrabCAD, make sure that you navigate to the bottom right of the screen and select the menu next to "Print." Select the printer you want to use; in this case, the F370, which will appear as "f370D30365". The volunteers in the lab can help you determine which printer would work best.
## To begin preparing your part, click on "Add Models". This is how you import your file into GrabCAD. '''Your file must be in .stl format.''' After you have added your part, you can begin preparing it to be printed. Multiple models can be added to the project. Additionally, models can be placed on new trays if the current one runs out of space.[[File:Icons.png|300x300px|none|thumb]]
## Notice that once a part has been added, an hourglass shaped tower will appear next to your part and scale with the size of your part. This is called a "purge tower" and is where a printer expels excess material upon switching filaments. The purge tower can be moved around on the plate as needed, but cannot be rotated. To move your part on the plate, one can simply click and drag to place it where they want to be printed. Keep in mind that the build plate is to scale, where you place it in the software will be where it prints in reality.
## To change how one is viewing the plate, hold on the middle mouse button and drag to move the plate, or click and hold the right mouse button to orient the angle the plate is viewed from. There are also icons on top to choose various viewpoints, such as an isometric view, top, left, etc. The icons on the right side of the screen are your print options. All of the options are intuitive, but you are still encouraged to practice manipulating your part so you understand how to use each function. The top three 'icons are different views, starting from a normal Model View, which is roughly how your part will appear when done.
## Analysis Mode shows faulty areas of a part, and Slice Preview shows model material and support material in the part. Below the Slice Preview Icon is the Model Info, where you can change the units of a selected part if needed.
## Next is Print Settings, which will be addressed below. The Arrange icon automatically arranges parts to optimize print time. Orient allows one to either let the software orient the part, orient a particular face to a plane, or rotate the model on the XYZ axis. Lastly, the Scale icon gives the option to change the size of the model, either with uniform scaling or on a particular axis. It also gives you the part dimension for each axis.
## '''You MUST print your part with "Sparse - low density" fill.''' It is expensive to print with Stratasys materials, thus you must consult a lab volunteer if you have a part you feel needs a denser fill. All of standard settings generally do not need to be changed.[[File:Density.png|thumb|none|300x300px]]
## If you would like more information on specifics, head to the GrabCAD website's [https://help.grabcad.com/article/199-take-a-quick-tour Help Center] for further details and tips, guides, or answers to FAQs. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8K4YTekXRw This] video contains a basic rundown of GrabCAD. Remember that the lab volunteers are available to answer your questions or provide assistance.
##
# Printing the part: F370 Touchscreen Operation
## After your part has been prepared, save the project before continuing. Generally, you will not start the print in the lab itself, since a volunteer will start it when a tray is full or when the day ends, but the workflow is as follows.
## Select "Print." The software will prepare the print. For larger packs, this may take several minutes, but usually takes around 30 seconds. If a print is currently ongoing, a bar across the top will read, "Print job queued successfully."
## Once your part has been prepared, you can click on on "View Estimates" in the bottom right-hand corner. You will see print time and the amount of model and support material that will be used, in cubic inches (in^3). This is an example of what the tray estimation page looks like. The model and support material used can be input into the Job Log in the lab.[[File:Estimate.png|none|thumb|300x300px]]
## Touchscreen operation on the F370 is highly intuitive. In the image below, the four icons on the left are as follows:
### Home - Displays the current tray to be printed. If a print is in progress, it will display how much time is left in the print and what is being printed. After a few minutes, a screen saver will switch between displaying which layer is being printed and how much time is left on the current print.
### Queue - Shows which trays are queued. This can also be viewed in GrabCAD.
### Materials - Display which material trays contain material, what kind of material is in the F370, and how much material is left. It also displays tip temperature for each respective material.
### Tools - The last menu has various settings and functions for the printer. One of the icons in this menu will be a sun, which turns the light inside the printer on and off so a print can be viewed. Otherwise, do not mess with or change settings without speaking to a volunteer first. [[File:F370_Touchscreen.jpg|none|thumb]]
### To start your print, the image above shows the home screen for the console. If a build plate is in place, the F370 has sufficient materials, and the correct tray is displayed, simply select "Print" and the print will begin.
# Soaking the part: Dissolvable Support Bath
## You will need to soak your finished part in the Dissolvable Support Bath in order to remove the support material. Much of it can be removed with pliers, but the remainder needs to be taken care of with the bath.
## For more information, see the [[Dissolvable Support Bath]] page. This section will contain basic information on what to do with the parts and bath, with basic safety info (gloves, goggles, washing yourself, spill, etc) and "see bath page for more detailed information" on particular topics.
# Build Plates
## F370 build plates are reusable, but when parts are removed from the plate, they often leave layers of support material that are extremely difficult to remove, rendering that part of the plate unusable. If a large pack or part is queued and a new plate is required for a print, go ahead and use a new plate. If a print or pack is smaller and can be printed without interference from unusable parts of a plate, try your best to reuse plates.

==Safety==
# When you are removing the support material by hand, it can be a little hot and sharp to begin with. Using a tool of some sort to chip it off is a good way to go, because hands bleed and tools don't :)
# When using the dissolvable support bath is used, do not use your bare hands to put your parts in! it is Sodium Hydroxide which is toxic! Use goggles, a lab coat, and the huge thick rubber gloves so that you don't get any on you.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31282 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
# If GrabCAD says printer isn't available, then it is not started up. Make sure the printer has been on for a while so it can connect to the network appropriately.
# It may take a while to start the print if you printer was just recently. It can take 2 hours to heat up and beginning printing the job.
# Make sure you have enough material in the material bay to complete the print before you begin.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

There are a few things students and the ace will need to do while performing maintenance tasks or the F370.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Changing Materials
|When the amount of material gets low
|Volunteer
|-
|Removing Material from Build Plate
|After every print
|Student
|}
# Changing Materials (Loading Filament Spools)
## Only volunteers will change out materials. If the F370 runs out of filament or you would like to use a different color, please speak to a lab volunteer.
## There are four material bays within the F370. The top drawer houses the material bays and their material drive controller, which feeds the filament from the bay to the head. The material drive controller detects whether material within the material drive within the material drive during the load and unload process and can also detect errors, when filament is broken, or when the end of the spool is reached via a filament present switch. The print will be paused if any of these things occur so the print can be recovered and filament reloaded.
## Select the '''Materials''' button from the touchscreen.
## Open the material bay drawer. That is the biggest drawer on the bottom half of the F370.
## Insert the material spool into its appropriate slot. In the Prototype Lab, the two bays on the left will contain model material, while the bays on the right will contain support material.
### Pull up on the latch securing the lid and open the lid.
### Place the material spool into the slot. Make sure the filament tail is facing the back wall of the material bay (printer side).
### Once the spool is inserted, the Material Status icon will display a solid yellow border with a notification badge above the icon.
## Open the Materials Details page by tapping on the status icon for the bay you are loading material into.
## Slowly turn the spool and feed filament through the filament hole.
### The filament needs to be advanced approximately 2 inches to reach the filament present switch. When the switch is reached, the Load button will refresh into a selectable state.
### When feeding filament, be careful to ensure that filament does not fall over the edge of the spool to avoid cross-winding and/or load errors.
## Once the filament present switch detects filament, select the Load icon.
## Press the Back button within the Material Details page to exit and return to the Materials page.
## Material will begin to load and the F370 will take care of the rest, automatically heating both the oven and liquefier tip to the correct temperatures for the material being used.
## Once the tip is within three degrees of the set point temperature the head moves to the purge area and the tip purges a small amount of material.
## Once material is loaded, the filament pathway between the Material Status Icon and the corresponding Head Status Icon will be solid blue, the Head Status Icon will turn from gray to blue, and the Material Status Icon will display a solid blue border.

__TOC__

Drill Press

2019-07-31T17:26:28Z

Czickefoose:

Through Hole Press

2019-07-31T17:05:55Z

Czickefoose:

[[File:...PressyBoi.png|thumb]]

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=PCB Lab
|Is used in domain=Electronics
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File: Through_hole_pressIcon.png
|Has icondesc=Through Hole Press Icon
|Has iconwname=File:image_pending.png
|Has image=File:through_hole_press_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The Favorit Through Hole Press
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=
|Has make=Favorit
|Has model=PL-FAVORIT
|Has ace=Your Mom;ymom@georgefox.edu
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|375px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Through Hole Press is a hand-operated through hole plating machine using rivets. A rivet is a component used to easily connect traces that are transitioning between the top and bottom layers of a PCB. Specifically, it is a small hollow copper tube that can be inserted on one side of the board, then - using a specialized rivet tool like the Through Hole Press - the rivets are pressed and deformed to connect both sides. There are other methods that carry out the same function, but using rivets is the fastest and most consistent method. {{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywfjknf6Vtg}}{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nz1TcfEnw-o}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
<gallery>
File:...rivet.png|Rivet
File:...rubberMallet.png|Rubber Mallet
</gallery>Add to terminology:
* traces
* V-One
* "vias"?
* SUR-TIN

[https://www.bungard.de/index.php/en/products/through-hole-plating-line/through-hole-plating Product Home Page]

[https://www.bungard.de/images/downloads/favorit_manual_e.pdf Favorit Through Hole Press User Manual]

[[Media:Through hole press instructions and size chart.pdf|Instructions and Size Chart]]

==Training==
====Overview====

Rivets are used to connect traces '''[add to terminology]''' on the top and bottom layers of a PCB. Rivets can be pressed using either the Through Hole Press or a rubber mallet. Each method has its perks, so students will learn both methods.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the press, the student will press 2 rivets by using a rubber mallet and 2 rivets using the press. A test PCB with many holes of different sizes will be provided and reused among students.

====General Procedure====
# Hole Sizing
## Before pressing a rivet, you need to make sure you design the holes so that they fit well. For a rivet to fit nicely in a hole, the hole diameter needs to be 0.1 mm (3.9 mils) larger than the rivet outer diameter. Use the table below to see what types of rivets Voltera offers. Also, refer to the chart below to assure you have the right size rivet for the hole you are pressing it into.[[File:Through_hole_press_chart_snippet.PNG|none|thumb|500x500px]][[File:...rivetTable.png|none|thumb]]
## Additionally, these rivets are hollow, so these can also be used to secure headers on your PCB. When placing vias '''[? define term or correct word]''' in your design program, ensure the right drill size is used so the V-One '''[add to terminology]''' leaves enough space when printing the ink.
# Using Through Hole Press
## Follow the instructions in the following video for setting up the correct tool set for your rivet.{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWoPXiklzl0}}
## You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]
## The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the plate stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way.[[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]
## Before pressing the rivets, you need to make sure you have the right tool inserted into the upper and lower parts of the press. These tools can be found in the drawer in front of the press. The tool you choose should have the same inside diameter of the rivet you want to press.
## Now it is time to press the rivets. Place the board over the pin of the lower tool and fit a rivet over the pin as far as possible. To flatten the other side of the rivet, press the lever until it reaches the stop pin, then release. [[File:...rivetPress.png|none|thumb]]
## Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply. Come stop by! '''[? what does this mean?]''' [[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]
# Using the Rubber Mallet
## Rivets can also be pressed using a rubber mallet! The setup for the through hole press apply here as well. This method is faster than the Through Hole Press, but it is not as consistent.
## You will need to place all the rivets into the board. Some like to use their fingers, some like to use tweezers, it is up to you. Pinching the rivets on the side is the easiest way to go, as shown in the picture below.[[File:...rivetPlacing.png|none|thumb]]
## The through hole press pretty much just flattens down the other side on the rivet. Once all rivets have been placed, you will need to turn it upside down while keeping the rivets snug inside the hole in order to flatten the other side. Find a flat unused PCB, place it over the rivets, and turn it upside down to keep them from falling out. Using some tape to keep the plate stable on the board is something to try if things are not quite going your way. '''[This step refers to the through hole press, not the mallet.]'''[[File:...rivetFlip.png|none|thumb]]
## Using the rubber mallet and the rivet tool, you can press the rivet as shown in the picture below. Place the tip of the tool inside the rivet in an upright position, then hit the top of the tool with the mallet. The rivet tool can be found in the drawers in front of the PCB Printers.[[File:...rubberMalletPress.png|none|thumb]]
## Your rivet should change somewhat like this. Pressing the rivet too hard can cause it to crack and damage the traces on the board, yet pressing the rivet too softly will to a poor job because it will not make a firm connection with the traces. It should be hit just hard enough to deform the rivet to make a firm connection with the traces. With practice, you'll learn the right amount of pressure to apply. Come stop by![[File:...rivetBeforeAfter.png|none|thumb]]

==Safety==
There is not much that can hurt you while using the machine or the rubber mallet. Do not put any part of yourself under the through hole press, because it will try to punch a hole in you. The same idea goes with the mallet and the '''rivet''' tool. Do not swing it or do any dumb stuff. This should not have to be said, but people are dumb sometimes. Please do not be that person.

As for the through hole press and its tools, there any many things that could damage it. Especially tools for small rivet diameter (0.4 and 0.6 mm) are sensitive and require careful handling. The tip of the upper tool and springloaded pin of the bottom tool '''should be guarded against damage.''' Avoid any excessive pressure on both parts! For transport reasons the tip of the lower tool may be hidden inside of the tool body. If so, carefully turn in the headless screw, until the tip shows up again, but still can be pushed into the body again.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31713 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
If a rivet is not connecting the top and bottom layer traces, it is probably not pressed well, meaning it is not making good contact with the trace on both layers. A well placed rivet gives a good connection that is resistant to bending and twisting. In order to obtain a good long-term stability, we recommend that you apply our SUR-TIN immersion tin. This will help to prevent corrosion at the transition layer of the rivet and the copper clad (and will increase solderability). If you place component leads in the rivet holes and solder them from one side only, you should avoid thermal stress to the rivet. Certainly if solder passes the rivet it can cause the rivet to grow under the heat so that the rivet becomes loose. In such case, you should solder fix both rivet collars to the pads before inserting component leads.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

There is little to no maintenance to be done on this machine. Just be sure to reset the space, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|General Cleaning
|Before and After each use, put away any rivets, tools, and PCBs that you have used
|Student
|}

__TOC__

Photo Table

2019-07-24T17:19:14Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Photo Booth.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:3D-PhotoBench-260.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Ortery PhotoBench-260
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Ortery
|Has model=3D PhotoBench 260
|Has ace=John Joo; jjoo15@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The Photo Table, or Photobench as called by its manufacturer Ortery, is a device which links to a lab PC specifically designated for this device and enables users to take still photos, 360 photos, and videos of various products and items on flat white backgrounds like the ones you see online for products you might view on a daily basis. If you have ever wondered how those product pictures are taken, this is it. This makes the photo table perfect for creating professional grade product photos for projects and presentations.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5INCuPbASHw}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Ortery Capture - This is the software that you will use to interact with the photo table in order to adjust the lighting, turntable, and take pictures.
*Canon 7D Mark II - This camera mounts on the side of the photo table and is used to take photos through the Ortery Capture software.
*360 - 360 degrees
'''[https://maker-hub.georgefox.edu/w/images/d/d6/UserGuide_en.pdf User Manual]'''

==Training==
====Overview====

Confirm that the unit is plugged in and then turn on the photo table using the large red power switch. Note that nothing will happen when you turn on the switch until you are logged into Ortery Capture and that you will not be able to log into Ortery Capture unless the photo table is turned on. After the the table is turned on, log onto the computer next to it using your standard George Fox log in. You will need to log into Ortery capture as well. The username is Cameraman and the password is Nikond70. Once you are logged into Ortery capture the lights in the photo table should automatically turn on. Place the object you are trying to photograph onto the center of the turntable using the door on the right side of the machine. It is especially important to have the object centered on the turntable if taking 360 photos because otherwise it will appear to shift side to side instead of just spinning. Now you can set up the Canon 7D Mark II; there is an adjustable mount on the side of the photo table that holds the camera still during the photo process and can be adjusted to find the perfect angle. Finish the setup process by plugging the camera into the computer using a Usb cable. The rest of the process will take place in Ortery capture. There you can adjust the camera settings, light intensity and direction, and turntable to take the perfect picture. Once you are done with the photo table, reset the space by logging out, turning off the table, and cleaning out any debris from the table.

====Demonstration====
In order to use this device, you must be able to demonstrate the following:
# Set up the Ortery Photo Table and the software on the computer, along with connecting the camera and getting the settings dialed in.
# Set up the camera and object to be photographed.
# Take a 360 photo of the object.
# Export the file to a safe location for later access and use.

====General Procedure====
Setting up the Ortery:
# Plug in the Ortery Photo table, if it isn't already, and turn the power switch to on. This will not cause a dramatic change in the table but must be done so the software can recognize the it.
# Turn on the computer and log in using your normal George Fox log in.
# Open up the Ortery Capture software and log in. The username is Cameraman and the password is Nikond70. The home page should look something like this:[[File:Home screen.png|none|thumb|1040x1040px]]
# Use the provided USB cable to connect the Camera to the computer.
## Make sure when doing this, the camera is off while connecting the camera, and that the software is able to recognize the camera.
#Press the [capture] button to toggle the capture window shown below. Take some test shots using the [snap] button to ensure that the camera and the software are properly set up.[[File:Ortery capture screen.png|none|thumb|1079x1079px]]
Setting up the object to be Photographed:
# Make sure that the object is clean and free of any debris. This will allow for not only a cleaner photo, but will also help with keeping the Photo table clean.
# Open up the small front door or the larger door on the right side of the photo table if the camera is already set up on the front part of the photo table.
# Place the object in the center of the table. It is important to be in the center so that the object will appear to spin in place in 360 photos instead of shifting side to side while spinning.
# Close the side or front door.
Capturing images of the product:
# In the Ortery software, open up a new capture and the camera settings panel will open up.
# Customize the camera settings (aperture, shutter speed, etc) as well as the table lighting to achieve the desired appearance. This is done done from the capture window and the video below walks through this as well.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdacoh3xKMI&t=5s}}
# Press capture to take photos.

==Safety==
* For this machine, you want to make sure that you are treating all the equipment with respect and ensure that all things are secured before you proceed to any new step or moving around, as it is expensive.
* With the rotating table, if you have long hair, make sure that it is out of the way of the table; although it won’t kill you, it can still cause problems and cause some injuries if you’re not careful.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31421 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* Lights aren't turning on and the photo table is on - You must log into Ortery Capture before they will turn on, even if the table is powered on.
* Background looks dark/spotty - Make sure the turntable is clean and adjust the different lights and brightness.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
The purpose of the photo table is to take product photos on white backgrounds and as a result it is important to keep the inside of the table clean to make sure the white surfaces stay that way. This is not difficult to do. Simply wipe out the the table with a paper towel if there is anything on the table. It may be helpful to use some cleaner from the prototype lab as well.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completed
|-
|Clean out and debris from the photo table
|Check after each use and perform as necessary
|Student
|N/A
|-
|Inspect lights and replace as needed
|Every two months. Refer to the user manual for instructions on replacing a light
|Ace
|
|}

Table Saw

2019-07-24T16:16:17Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:table_saw_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Table Saw icon
|Has iconwname=File:table_saw_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:table_saw.png
|Has imagedesc=SawStop Table Saw
|Has description=True
|Has make=SawStop
|Has model=PCS31230
|Has ace=Noah Burlingame;nburlingame18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The table saw is a fundamental part of any woodshop and can be used for cutting wood or acrylic. There are two basic cuts that are normally performed. A rip cut is made along the grain and a cross cut is done perpendicular to the the grain. A fence is used to keep the material straight when pushing material through the saw. While the saw is usually used for cutting the long side of material, jigs and tools are also available for doing cross-cuts on the table saw. Fixtures make sure the material stays in place as it’s pushed through and helps keep it straight.

The SawStop table saw has a unique safety feature. A spring loaded cartridge is located in the machine. Any conductive material that makes contact with the blade fires and jams the cartridge block into the blade. The blade then stops spinning and drops down out of the way into the body of the saw. All this happens within 5 milliseconds, helping to ensure the blade inflicts minimal damage. If the material you are cutting is wet or has gold paint or leaf it will most likely trigger the saw stop feature. Do not cut any wet lumber or metal coated materials with this machine. Charcoal is also conductive so any laser cut areas of lumber should not make contact with the blade while cutting.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNKqNFnWQPs}}

==Documentation==

[https://www.sawstop.com/images/uploads/manuals/PCS%20Owners%20Manual%20Model%20PCS31230%20V5.0%2009-13.pdf User Manual]
====Terminology====

* Rip - Cuts made along the length of the wood.
* Cross-cut - Cuts made across the grain along the shorter side of the wood.
* Push stick - A piece of wood or plastic used to push the wood being cut through the blade while keeping fingers away from the blade.
* Fence - A guide for measuring the cut and guiding the wood.
* Riving Knife - A flat metal device that mounts behind the saw blade. This device prevents material from closing up on the blade and causing a dangerous condition called a material kickback.
* '''''Sled - [define]'''''

==Training==
====Operation====

The SawStop table saw has a unique safety feature. A spring loaded cartridge is located in the machine. Any conductive material that makes contact with the blade causes the aluminum cartridge block to fire into the blade. The blade then stops spinning and drops down out of the way. All this happens within 5 milliseconds, helping to ensure the blade inflicts minimal damage. This galvanic response safety mechanism is great for preventing injuries but will permanently damage the blade if triggered. If the material you are cutting is conductive it will trigger the saw stop feature. Do not cut any wet lumber, pressure treated, or metal coated materials such as gold leaf with this machine. Charcoal is also conductive so any laser cut areas of lumber should not make contact with the blade while cutting. There are a few other things to keep in mind regarding your material as well. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not cut materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the blade and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard.

If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the saw itself. When setting up the saw the blade, it should protrude no more than 1/4" above the material top. This limits the amount of blade that is exposed and makes for a good cut. You will also want to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the rear of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the table saw to help keep the dust out of the air. As you make a cut, it is imperative that you keep the wood firmly against the fence to make the cut square. Therefore, you should double check to see if you are reading the right measurement on the fence, especially because the fence can be moved to either side of the blade which is why there are two distance indicators, only one of which is correct for each set up. Make sure to ask the supervisor about the available jigs because they can be helpful for specialty cuts. Once the supervisor has demonstrated the use of a jig feel free to use it in the future but do not play around with jigs you are unfamiliar with.

After the saw is set up you are ready to cut. Turn on the saw and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the blade. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished unless there is an emergency, in which case, carefully use one hand or your hip to bump the off switch. Also not let go of your work piece during the cut or it will be forced back towards you.

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely setup the saw and rip a board. You will then proceed to cross cut one of the remaining pieces. Remember to set the blade height so it is protruding less than 1/8" out the top of material for less exposure. When performing a rip cut the fence is used to guide the lumber into the blade. You want to make sure that the distance between the fence and blade is the width of desired cut. Mark the edge of the material when doing a cross cut so you can align the material with the blade in the sled. '''''[CZ - define "sled"]''''' You can also use a miter gauge for making cross cuts but make sure the material is long enough and well supported.

====General Procedure====
[[File:TABLE_SAW_CONTROLS.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]

'''Rip Cut'''

1. Ensure that the material you are cutting has at least one straight edge and no nails or foreign objects. The straight edge will slide against the fence when ripping.

2. Measure the width of the board and determine the width of cut desired.

3. Lift the locking handle on the fence and slide the fence to the desired cut width using the scale. Make sure you use the scale for the correct side of the blade.

4. Lock the fence by pressing down on the locking handle.

5. Use the elevation handle on the front of the saw to set the height of the blade approximately 1 tooth above the height of the material by placing the material next to the blade as a guide. This limits the exposed blade.

6. Turn on the main power switch on the front of the saw and the dust collector. The green light on the saw will flash and turn solid green when the saw is ready.

7. Make sure nothing is touching the blade. Turn on the saw by gently pulling on the red start paddle switch located on the front of the machine. The paddle switch is also the off switch when pressed.

8. Line up the flat side of the material with the fence without touching the blade. The fence is a guide and the material should be pressed firmly into the fence as well as down on the table. If the board is warped make sure that curved side is face downward.

9. Slowly feed the material in towards the blade while keeping your fingers at least 6" from the blade. Use a push stick to keep fingers away from the blade.

10. Make sure you keep a firm hold on the material and do not stop feeding the material until it has passed beyond the blade.

11. It is helpful to have someone assisting on the back side of the saw to help hold material being fed off the table. Make sure the person helping does not pull on the material.

12. When the saw cut is complete, press in on the paddle switch to turn off the saw and lower the blade below the table to keep anyone from accidentally cutting themselves.

'''Cross Cut'''

1. Move the fence off to the side by lifting the brake handle and sliding the fence off to the side.

2. Place the cross cut sled on the table by aligning the table slots with the rails on the sled.

3. Slide the sled over the blade and use the material to set the blade height using the blade height handle on the front of the saw. The blade should be roughly one tooth taller than the top of the material.

4. Place the material flat edge against the back of the sled and align the material with the edge of the blade.

5. Once the blade is clear pull the red paddle switch to turn on the saw.

6. Slide the sled forward to cut through the material at the desired location.

7. Slide the sled back to you so it clears the blade.

8. Power down the saw by pressing the red paddle switch located on the front of the machine.

9. Lower the blade below the table using the crank handle on the front of the machine.

10. Reset the space by cleaning up any dust, turning off the equipment, and lowering the blade below the table to keep anyone from accidentally cutting themselves.

==Safety==
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a table saw.
* The blade is very sharp and it spins very fast. Keep your fingers away from the blade even when its not spinning. Use a push stick to keep your fingers a safe distance from the blade.
* Always wear proper safety equipment, i.e. ear protection and safety glasses, to prevent injury.
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table and fence to help prevent the material from catching on the blade. If material catches on the blade the material can shoot back at you and this is called a kickback.
This is a video of a kickback:
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4}}

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31322 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
If the blade appears to need sharpening ask the tech to change out the blade.

A sign of a dull blade is as follows:

1. Burning of material

2. More resistance when cutting

3. Rough cut edges

4. Increased cutting noise

5. Increased motor noise

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Keep the saw clean and use the dust collector. There are several lubrication points on the saw that need to be checked by the tech.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Lubricate mechanisms
|Semester
|Sample
|-
|Clean machine interior
|Monthly
|Sample2
|}

Table Saw

2019-07-24T16:06:53Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:table_saw_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Table Saw icon
|Has iconwname=File:table_saw_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:table_saw.png
|Has imagedesc=SawStop Table Saw
|Has description=True
|Has make=SawStop
|Has model=PCS31230
|Has ace=Noah Burlingame;nburlingame18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The table saw is a fundamental part of any woodshop and can be used for cutting wood or acrylic. There are two basic cuts that are normally performed. A rip cut is made along the grain and a cross cut is done perpendicular to the the grain. A fence is used to keep the material straight when pushing material through the saw. While the saw is usually used for cutting the long side of material, jigs and tools are also available for doing cross-cuts on the table saw. Fixtures make sure the material stays in place as it’s pushed through and helps keep it straight.

The SawStop table saw has a unique safety feature. A spring loaded cartridge is located in the machine. Any conductive material that makes contact with the blade fires and jams the cartridge block into the blade. The blade then stops spinning and drops down out of the way into the body of the saw. All this happens within 5 milliseconds, helping to ensure the blade inflicts minimal damage. If the material you are cutting is wet or has gold paint or leaf it will most likely trigger the saw stop feature. Do not cut any wet lumber or metal coated materials with this machine. Charcoal is also conductive so any laser cut areas of lumber should not make contact with the blade while cutting.

Here is an example of this piece of equipment being used.
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNKqNFnWQPs}}

==Documentation==

[https://www.sawstop.com/images/uploads/manuals/PCS%20Owners%20Manual%20Model%20PCS31230%20V5.0%2009-13.pdf User Manual]
====Terminology====

* Rip - Cuts made along the length of the wood.
* Cross-cut - Cuts made across the grain along the shorter side of the wood.
* Push stick - A piece of wood or plastic used to push the wood being cut through the blade while keeping fingers away from the blade.
* Fence - A guide for measuring the cut and guiding the wood.
* Riving Knife - A flat metal device that mounts behind the saw blade. This device prevents material from closing up on the blade and causing a dangerous condition called a material kickback.

==Training==
====Operation====

The SawStop table saw has a unique safety feature. A spring loaded cartridge is located in the machine. Any conductive material that makes contact with the blade causes the aluminum cartridge block to fire into the blade. The blade then stops spinning and drops down out of the way. All this happens within 5 milliseconds, helping to ensure the blade inflicts minimal damage. This galvanic response safety mechanism is great for preventing injuries but will permanently damage the blade if triggered. If the material you are cutting is conductive it will trigger the saw stop feature. Do not cut any wet lumber, pressure treated, or metal coated materials such as gold leaf with this machine. Charcoal is also conductive so any laser cut areas of lumber should not make contact with the blade while cutting. There are a few other things to keep in mind regarding your material as well. Make sure the material you are cutting is free of all foreign objects. Do not cut materials that may have nails or screws as they will damage the blade and may cause injury to you. Also, if the material contains a loose knot it can break free and create a safety hazard.

If your material looks good, the next step is to set up the saw itself. When setting up the saw the blade, it should protrude no more than 1/4" above the material top. This limits the amount of blade that is exposed and makes for a good cut. You will also want to hook up the adjacent dust collector to the rear of the machine, make sure it is plugged in, and turned on. The dust collector must be used with the table saw to help keep the dust out of the air. As you make a cut, it is imperative that you keep the wood firmly against the fence to make the cut square. Therefore, you should double check to see if you are reading the right measurement on the fence, especially because the fence can be moved to either side of the blade which is why there are two distance indicators, only one of which is correct for each set up. Make sure to ask the supervisor about the available jigs because they can be helpful for specialty cuts. Once the supervisor has demonstrated the use of a jig feel free to use it in the future but do not play around with jigs you are unfamiliar with.

After the saw is set up you are ready to cut. Turn on the saw and slowly push the material through, making sure to keep your hands away from the blade. Do not stop pushing the material until after the cut is finished unless there is an emergency, in which case, carefully use one hand or your hip to bump the off switch. Also not let go of your work piece during the cut or it will be forced back towards you.

====Demonstration====

Demonstrate you can safely setup the saw and rip a board. You will then proceed to cross cut one of the remaining pieces. Remember to set the blade height so it is protruding less than 1/8" out the top of material for less exposure. When performing a rip cut the fence is used to guide the lumber into the blade. You want to make sure that the distance between the fence and blade is the width of desired cut. Mark the edge of the material when doing a cross cut so you can align the material with the blade in the sled. '''''[CZ - define "sled"]''''' You can also use a miter gauge for making cross cuts but make sure the material is long enough and well supported.

====General Procedure====
[[File:TABLE_SAW_CONTROLS.jpg|none|thumb|600x600px]]

'''Rip Cut'''

1. Ensure that the material you are cutting has at least one straight edge and no nails or foreign objects. The straight edge will slide against the fence when ripping.

2. Measure the width of the board and determine the width of cut desired.

3. Lift the locking handle on the fence and slide the fence to the desired cut width using the scale. Make sure you use the scale for the correct side of the blade.

4. Lock the fence by pressing down on the locking handle.

5. Use the elevation handle on the front of the saw to set the height of the blade approximately 1 tooth above the height of the material by placing the material next to the blade as a guide. This limits the exposed blade.

6. Turn on the main power switch on the front of the saw and the dust collector. The green light on the saw will flash and turn solid green when the saw is ready.

7. Make sure nothing is touching the blade. Turn on the saw by gently pulling on the red start paddle switch located on the front of the machine. The paddle switch is also the off switch when pressed.

8. Line up the flat side of the material with the fence without touching the blade. The fence is a guide and the material should be pressed firmly into the fence as well as down on the table. If the board is warped make sure that curved side is face downward.

9. Slowly feed the material in towards the blade while keeping your fingers at least 6" from the blade. Use a push stick to keep fingers away from the blade.

10. Make sure you keep a firm hold on the material and do not stop feeding the material until it has passed beyond the blade.

11. It is helpful to have someone assisting on the back side of the saw to help hold material being fed off the table. Make sure the person helping does not pull on the material.

12. When the saw cut is complete, press in on the paddle switch to turn off the saw and lower the blade below the table to keep anyone from accidentally cutting themselves.

'''Cross Cut'''

1. Move the fence off to the side by lifting the brake handle and sliding the fence off to the side.

2. Place the cross cut sled on the table by aligning the table slots with the rails on the sled.

3. Slide the sled over the blade and use the material to set the blade height using the blade height handle on the front of the saw. The blade should be roughly one tooth taller than the top of the material.

4. Place the material flat edge against the back of the sled and align the material with the edge of the blade.

5. Once the blade is clear pull the red paddle switch to turn on the saw.

6. Slide the sled forward to cut through the material at the desired location.

7. Slide the sled back to you so it clears the blade.

8. Power down the saw by pressing the red paddle switch located on the front of the machine.

9. Lower the blade below the table using the crank handle on the front of the machine.

10. Reset the space by cleaning up any dust, turning off the equipment, and lowering the blade below the table to keep anyone from accidentally cutting themselves.

==Safety==
There are several hazards you need to be aware of when using a table saw.
* The blade is very sharp and it spins very fast. Keep your fingers away from the blade even when its not spinning. Use a push stick to keep your fingers a safe distance from the blade.
* Always wear proper safety equipment, i.e. ear protection and safety glasses, to prevent injury.
* Hold onto material firmly and keep it against the table and fence to help prevent the material from catching on the blade. If material catches on the blade the material can shoot back at you and this is called a kickback.
This is a video of a kickback:
{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4}}

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31322 Foxtale Course]

==Troubleshooting==
If the blade appears to need sharpening ask the tech to change out the blade.

A sign of a dull blade is as follows:

1. Burning of material

2. More resistance when cutting

3. Rough cut edges

4. Increased cutting noise

5. Increased motor noise

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

Keep the saw clean and use the dust collector. There are several lubrication points on the saw that need to be checked by the tech.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Lubricate mechanisms
|Semester
|Sample
|-
|Clean machine interior
|Monthly
|Sample2
|}

Wood Drill Press

2019-07-17T17:51:56Z

Czickefoose:

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has icon=File:wood_drill_press_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Wood Drill Press icon
|Has iconwname=File:wood_drill_press_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:wood_drill_press_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Nova Voyager dvr Drill Press
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has make=Nova
|Has model=Voyager DVR
|Has ace=John Phifer;jphifer17@georgefox.edu
}}

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple. Compatible materials include wood, metal, plastics, and glass.

{{#evuhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8NTL8bPm7A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Drill - Cut a hole into the material

Through hole - A hole that goes completely through a material

Blind hole - A hole that goes partially through a material

Quill - Rotating handle used to set depth of blind hole

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

The Wood Drill Press is mainly used for drilling holes into wood.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Wood Drill Press, students will demonstrate that they can set up everything, and drill a through hole and a blind hole.

====General Procedure====
# Make sure you are wearing proper machine shop attire. (Safety glasses, rolled up or short sleeves, and closed toed shoes.)
# Make sure whenever making adjustments to your work piece that the Drill Press is turned off.
# Mark your piece where the hole should be drilled, then use a hole starter to punch a hole for the drill bit.
# Put the appropriate drill bit into the chuck and use the chuck key on the drill press to tighten it. Make sure you tighten all three sides of the chuck. Chuck key on left, Chuck on right.[[File:...chuck.png|none|thumb]]
# Adjust position of work-table for your work piece.
## The table height and rotational position can be adjusted using the handle on the column:
### Loosen the locking handle on the rear of the table bracket. NOTE: It is important to unlock this handle before adjusting the table
### Rotate the crank handle attached to the rack to raise/lower the table to desired height.
### Swing the table around the column to the desired position.
### Re-tighten the locking handle, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## To tilt the table:
### Loosen the bolt underneath the table using the 27mm closed end wrench included for this purpose.
### Loosen set screw underneath the previous bolt using 5mm Allen key.
### Tilt table to desired angle.
### Re-tighten bolt and set screw, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## For blind holes, lock the table at desired depth
### To lock the quill at a certain depth, pull the quill lever down to the desired level and turn the quill lock handle clockwise and tighten firmly.
### If the quill lock handle is not fully tightened when it reaches its limit:
#### Pull the handle out along the screw so it freely rotates
#### Rotate back counter-clockwise
#### Set handle fully back down in place on screw
#### Tighten further until snug and quill is locked in place
# Line piece up with drill bit and fasten down onto work table using a clamp or vice. If drilling a through hole, put a piece of FLAT scrap wood under the piece being drilled to avoid a blowout.
# Turn power on using switch located on the right side of the machine as shown in the picture below. The yellow tab must be in place for the drill to be powered on.[[File:...voyagerthing.png|none|thumb]]
# Now the display screen should be on. Using the buttons adjust the speed to the specific speed needed to cut the materials. '''[Need to show illustration of display screen with description of settings - CZ]'''
## To use the speed chart:
### Go to the Menu > Speed Chart.
### Select the type of drill bit.
### Select the drill bit size.
### Select the work piece material.
### Confirm the new set speed. 6. The display will return to the default screen with the new speed selected.
# After getting everything set up, turn the drill press on. (NEVER put your hand or any other body part in the path of the drill)
# Pull the lever to drill hole. (NEVER move workpiece while drilling a hole)
# Turn machine off before drilling next hole and when you are done drilling current hole.
# When done, remove drill bit. ( When loose, use one hand to unscrew and the other to hole the drill bit, so the drill bit does not fall and get damaged.)
# When done, return all burrowed equipment and clean work area.

==Safety==
* Make sure you are wearing proper attire. (Short Sleeves, Closed Toed Shoes, No jewelry or any loose hanging accessories, and Safety Glasses)
* Keep body parts or anything else other than the workpiece out of the path of the drill but when on.
* Do not move workpiece while drill bit is inside of workpiece.
* Make sure the drill bit is secure and fastened into the chuck.
* Make sure drill is at the appropriate speed.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31323 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* It may be helpful to clamp down smaller work pieces to keep them from spinning while drilling a hole.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
Maintenance will be done to ensure the quality of the device. Tasks and their corresponding frequencies are listed below.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Clean area and Drill Press
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Wax exposed cast iron parts with paste wax
|Monthhly
|Ace
|-
|Lubricate gear and rack in the table elevation mechanism and the splines (grooves) in the spindle with a #2 tube grease, and lubricate the teeth of the feed shaft assembly and quill shaft with one or two drops of light weight oil.
|6 months
|Ace
|}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* [https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-voyager-dvr-variable-speed-drill-press-exclusive-amazon-bundle/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PzDxsni2wIVFNNkCh3lBAcLEAAYASAAEgL5NvD_BwE Product Home Page]
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PvDExhAOC8 First look]

== Training ==
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>

Wood Drill Press

2019-07-17T17:50:22Z

Czickefoose: Revised power/safety description.

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has icon=File:wood_drill_press_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Wood Drill Press icon
|Has iconwname=File:wood_drill_press_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:wood_drill_press_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Nova Voyager dvr Drill Press
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has make=Nova
|Has model=Voyager DVR
|Has ace=John Phifer;jphifer17@georgefox.edu
}}

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple. Compatible materials include wood, metal, plastics, and glass.

{{#evuhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8NTL8bPm7A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Drill - Cut a hole into the material

Through hole - A hole that goes completely through a material

Blind hole - A hole that goes partially through a material

Quill - Rotating handle used to set depth of blind hole

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

The Wood Drill Press is mainly used for drilling holes into wood.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Wood Drill Press, students will demonstrate that they can set up everything, and drill a through hole and a blind hole.

====General Procedure====
# Make sure you are wearing proper machine shop attire. (Safety glasses, rolled up or short sleeves, and closed toed shoes.)
# Make sure whenever making adjustments to your work piece that the Drill Press is turned off.
# Mark your piece where the hole should be drilled, then use a hole starter to punch a hole for the drill bit.
# Put the appropriate drill bit into the chuck and use the chuck key on the drill press to tighten it. Make sure you tighten all three sides of the chuck. Chuck key on left, Chuck on right.[[File:...chuck.png|none|thumb]]
# Adjust position of work-table for your work piece.
## The table height and rotational position can be adjusted using the handle on the column:
### Loosen the locking handle on the rear of the table bracket. NOTE: It is important to unlock this handle before adjusting the table
### Rotate the crank handle attached to the rack to raise/lower the table to desired height.
### Swing the table around the column to the desired position.
### Re-tighten the locking handle, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## To tilt the table:
### Loosen the bolt underneath the table using the 27mm closed end wrench included for this purpose.
### Loosen set screw underneath the previous bolt using 5mm Allen key.
### Tilt table to desired angle.
### Re-tighten bolt and set screw, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## For blind holes, lock the table at desired depth
### To lock the quill at a certain depth, pull the quill lever down to the desired level and turn the quill* lock handle clockwise and tighten firmly. * [Note, what is a "quill" or is it supposed to be "drill"?]
### If the quill lock handle is not fully tightened when it reaches its limit:
#### Pull the handle out along the screw so it freely rotates
#### Rotate back counter-clockwise
#### Set handle fully back down in place on screw
#### Tighten further until snug and quill is locked in place
# Line piece up with drill bit and fasten down onto work table using a clamp or vice. If drilling a through hole, put a piece of FLAT scrap wood under the piece being drilled to avoid a blowout.
# Turn power on using switch located on the right side of the machine as shown in the picture below. The yellow tab must be in place for the drill to be powered on.[[File:...voyagerthing.png|none|thumb]]
# Now the display screen should be on. Using the buttons adjust the speed to the specific speed needed to cut the materials. '''[Need to show illustration of display screen with description of settings - CZ]'''
## To use the speed chart:
### Go to the Menu > Speed Chart.
### Select the type of drill bit.
### Select the drill bit size.
### Select the work piece material.
### Confirm the new set speed. 6. The display will return to the default screen with the new speed selected.
# After getting everything set up, turn the drill press on. (NEVER put your hand or any other body part in the path of the drill)
# Pull the lever to drill hole. (NEVER move workpiece while drilling a hole)
# Turn machine off before drilling next hole and when you are done drilling current hole.
# When done, remove drill bit. ( When loose, use one hand to unscrew and the other to hole the drill bit, so the drill bit does not fall and get damaged.)
# When done, return all burrowed equipment and clean work area.

==Safety==
* Make sure you are wearing proper attire. (Short Sleeves, Closed Toed Shoes, No jewelry or any loose hanging accessories, and Safety Glasses)
* Keep body parts or anything else other than the workpiece out of the path of the drill but when on.
* Do not move workpiece while drill bit is inside of workpiece.
* Make sure the drill bit is secure and fastened into the chuck.
* Make sure drill is at the appropriate speed.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31323 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* It may be helpful to clamp down smaller work pieces to keep them from spinning while drilling a hole.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
Maintenance will be done to ensure the quality of the device. Tasks and their corresponding frequencies are listed below.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Clean area and Drill Press
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Wax exposed cast iron parts with paste wax
|Monthhly
|Ace
|-
|Lubricate gear and rack in the table elevation mechanism and the splines (grooves) in the spindle with a #2 tube grease, and lubricate the teeth of the feed shaft assembly and quill shaft with one or two drops of light weight oil.
|6 months
|Ace
|}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* [https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-voyager-dvr-variable-speed-drill-press-exclusive-amazon-bundle/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PzDxsni2wIVFNNkCh3lBAcLEAAYASAAEgL5NvD_BwE Product Home Page]
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PvDExhAOC8 First look]

== Training ==
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>

Wood Drill Press

2019-07-17T17:07:30Z

Czickefoose: Question on term "quill".

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has icon=File:wood_drill_press_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Wood Drill Press icon
|Has iconwname=File:wood_drill_press_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:wood_drill_press_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Nova Voyager dvr Drill Press
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has make=Nova
|Has model=Voyager DVR
|Has ace=John Phifer;jphifer17@georgefox.edu
}}

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple. Compatible materials include wood, metal, plastics, and glass.

{{#evuhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8NTL8bPm7A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Drill - Cut a hole into the material

Through hole - A hole that goes completely through a material

Blind hole - A hole that goes partially through a material

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

The Wood Drill Press is mainly used for drilling holes into wood.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Wood Drill Press, students will demonstrate that they can set up everything, and drill a through hole and a blind hole.

====General Procedure====
# Make sure you are wearing proper machine shop attire. (Safety glasses, rolled up or short sleeves, and closed toed shoes.)
# Make sure whenever making adjustments to your work piece that the Drill Press is turned off.
# Mark your piece where the hole should be drilled, then use a hole starter to punch a hole for the drill bit.
# Put the appropriate drill bit into the chuck and use the chuck key on the drill press to tighten it. Make sure you tighten all three sides of the chuck. Chuck key on left, Chuck on right.[[File:...chuck.png|none|thumb]]
# Adjust position of work-table for your work piece.
## The table height and rotational position can be adjusted using the handle on the column:
### Loosen the locking handle on the rear of the table bracket. NOTE: It is important to unlock this handle before adjusting the table
### Rotate the crank handle attached to the rack to raise/lower the table to desired height.
### Swing the table around the column to the desired position.
### Re-tighten the locking handle, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## To tilt the table:
### Loosen the bolt underneath the table using the 27mm closed end wrench included for this purpose.
### Loosen set screw underneath the previous bolt using 5mm Allen key.
### Tilt table to desired angle.
### Re-tighten bolt and set screw, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## For blind holes, lock the table at desired depth
### To lock the quill at a certain depth, pull the quill lever down to the desired level and turn the quill* lock handle clockwise and tighten firmly. * [Note, what is a "quill" or is it supposed to be "drill"?]
### If the quill lock handle is not fully tightened when it reaches its limit:
#### Pull the handle out along the screw so it freely rotates
#### Rotate back counter-clockwise
#### Set handle fully back down in place on screw
#### Tighten further until snug and quill is locked in place
# Line piece up with drill bit and fasten down onto work table using a clamp or vice. If drilling a through hole, put a piece of FLAT scrap wood under the piece being drilled to avoid a blowout.
# Turn safety lock off on drill press located on the right side of the machine. As seen in the picture below off to the right. Safety lock in read and yellow on right of picture.[[File:...voyagerthing.png|none|thumb]]
# Now the display screen should be on. Using the buttons adjust the speed to the specific speed needed to cut the materials.
## To use the speed chart:
### Go to the Menu > Speed Chart.
### Select the type of drill bit.
### Select the drill bit size.
### Select the work piece material.
### Confirm the new set speed. 6. The display will return to the default screen with the new speed selected.
# After getting everything set up, turn the drill press on. (NEVER put your hand or any other body part in the path of the drill)
# Pull the lever to drill hole. (NEVER move workpiece while drilling a hole)
# Turn machine off before drilling next hole and when you are done drilling current hole.
# When done, remove drill bit. ( When loose, use one hand to unscrew and the other to hole the drill bit, so the drill bit does not fall and get damaged.)
# When done, return all burrowed equipment and clean work area.

==Safety==
* Make sure you are wearing proper attire. (Short Sleeves, Closed Toed Shoes, No jewelry or any loose hanging accessories, and Safety Glasses)
* Keep body parts or anything else other than the workpiece out of the path of the drill but when on.
* Do not move workpiece while drill bit is inside of workpiece.
* Make sure the drill bit is secure and fastened into the chuck.
* Make sure drill is at the appropriate speed.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31323 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* It may be helpful to clamp down smaller work pieces to keep them from spinning while drilling a hole.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
Maintenance will be done to ensure the quality of the device. Tasks and their corresponding frequencies are listed below.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Clean area and Drill Press
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Wax exposed cast iron parts with paste wax
|Monthhly
|Ace
|-
|Lubricate gear and rack in the table elevation mechanism and the splines (grooves) in the spindle with a #2 tube grease, and lubricate the teeth of the feed shaft assembly and quill shaft with one or two drops of light weight oil.
|6 months
|Ace
|}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* [https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-voyager-dvr-variable-speed-drill-press-exclusive-amazon-bundle/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PzDxsni2wIVFNNkCh3lBAcLEAAYASAAEgL5NvD_BwE Product Home Page]
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PvDExhAOC8 First look]

== Training ==
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>

Wood Drill Press

2019-07-17T16:56:40Z

Czickefoose:

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has icon=File:wood_drill_press_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Wood Drill Press icon
|Has iconwname=File:wood_drill_press_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:wood_drill_press_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Nova Voyager dvr Drill Press
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has make=Nova
|Has model=Voyager DVR
|Has ace=John Phifer;jphifer17@georgefox.edu
}}

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple. Compatible materials include wood, metal, plastics, and glass.

{{#evuhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8NTL8bPm7A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Drill - Cut a hole into the material

Through hole - A hole that goes completely through a material

Blind hole - A hole that goes partially through a material

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

The Wood Drill Press is mainly used for drilling holes into wood.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Wood Drill Press, students will demonstrate that they can set up everything, and drill a through hole and a blind hole.

====General Procedure====
# Make sure you are wearing proper machine shop attire. (Safety glasses, rolled up or short sleeves, and closed toed shoes.)
# Make sure whenever making adjustments to your work piece that the Drill Press is turned off.
# Mark your piece where the hole should be drilled, then use a hole starter to punch a hole for the drill bit.
# Put the appropriate drill bit into the chuck and use the chuck key on the drill press to tighten it. Make sure you tighten all three sides of the chuck. Chuck key on left, Chuck on right.[[File:...chuck.png|none|thumb]]
# Adjust position of work-table for your work piece.
## The table height and rotational position can be adjusted using the handle on the column:
### Loosen the locking handle on the rear of the table bracket. NOTE: It is important to unlock this handle before adjusting the table
### Rotate the crank handle attached to the rack to raise/lower the table to desired height.
### Swing the table around the column to the desired position.
### Retighten the locking handle, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## To tilt the table:
### Loosen the bolt underneath the table using the 27mm closed end wrench included for this purpose.
### Loosen set screw underneath the previous bolt using 5mm Allen key.
### Tilt table to desired angle.
### Retighten bolt and set screw, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## For blind holes, lock the table at desired depth
### To lock the quill at a certain depth, pull the quill lever down to the desired level and turn the quill lock handle clockwise and tighten firmly.
### If the quill lock handle is not fully tightened when it reaches its limit:
#### Pull the handle out along the screw so it freely rotates
#### Rotate back counter-clockwise
#### Set handle fully back down in place on screw
#### Tighten further until snug and quill is locked in place
# Line piece up with drill bit and fasten down onto work table using a clamp or vice. If drilling a through hole, put a piece of FLAT scrap wood under the piece being drilled to avoid a blowout.
# Turn safety lock off on drill press located on the right side of the machine. As seen in the picture below off to the right. Safety lock in read and yellow on right of picture.[[File:...voyagerthing.png|none|thumb]]
# Now the display screen should be on. Using the buttons adjust the speed to the specific speed needed to cut the materials.
## To use the speed chart:
### Go to the Menu > Speed Chart.
### Select the type of drill bit.
### Select the drill bit size.
### Select the work piece material.
### Confirm the new set speed. 6. The display will return to the default screen with the new speed selected.
# After getting everything set up, turn the drill press on. (NEVER put your hand or any other body part in the path of the drill)
# Pull the lever to drill hole. (NEVER move workpiece while drilling a hole)
# Turn machine off before drilling next hole and when you are done drilling current hole.
# When done, remove drill bit. ( When loose, use one hand to unscrew and the other to hole the drill bit, so the drill bit does not fall and get damaged.)
# When done, return all burrowed equipment and clean work area.

==Safety==
* Make sure you are wearing proper attire. (Short Sleeves, Closed Toed Shoes, No jewelry or any loose hanging accessories, and Safety Glasses)
* Keep body parts or anything else other than the workpiece out of the path of the drill but when on.
* Do not move workpiece while drill bit is inside of workpiece.
* Make sure the drill bit is secure and fastened into the chuck.
* Make sure drill is at the appropriate speed.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31323 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* It may be helpful to clamp down smaller work pieces to keep them from spinning while drilling a hole.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
Maintenance will be done to ensure the quality of the device. Tasks and their corresponding frequencies are listed below.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Clean area and Drill Press
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Wax exposed cast iron parts with paste wax
|Monthhly
|Ace
|-
|Lubricate gear and rack in the table elevation mechanism and the splines (grooves) in the spindle with a #2 tube grease, and lubricate the teeth of the feed shaft assembly and quill shaft with one or two drops of light weight oil.
|6 months
|Ace
|}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* [https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-voyager-dvr-variable-speed-drill-press-exclusive-amazon-bundle/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PzDxsni2wIVFNNkCh3lBAcLEAAYASAAEgL5NvD_BwE Product Home Page]
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PvDExhAOC8 First look]

== Training ==
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>

Wood Drill Press

2019-07-17T16:51:46Z

Czickefoose:

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility= Wood Shop
|Is used in domain=Wood
|Has icon=File:wood_drill_press_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Wood Drill Press icon
|Has iconwname=File:wood_drill_press_icon_name.png
|Has image=File:wood_drill_press_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=Nova Voyager dvr Drill Press
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has group=Woodworking
|Has make=Nova
|Has model=Voyager DVR
|Has ace=John Phifer;jphifer17@georgefox.edu
}}

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple. Compatible materials include wood, metal, plastics, and glass.

{{#evuhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8NTL8bPm7A}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====

Drill - Cut a hole into the material

Through hole - A hole that goes completely through a material

Blind hole - A hole that goes partially through a material

User Manual

==Training==
====Overview====

The Wood Drill Press is mainly used for drilling holes into wood.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the Wood Drill Press, students will demonstrate that they can set up everything, and drill a through hole and a blind hole.

====General Procedure====
# Make sure you are wearing proper machine shop attire. (Safety glasses, rolled up or short sleeves, and closed toed shoes.)
# Make sure whenever making adjustments to your work piece that the Drill Press is turned off.
# Mark your piece where the hole should be drilled, then use a hole starter to punch a hole for the drill bit.
# Put the appropriate drill bit into the chuck and use the chuck key on the drill press to tighten it. Make sure you tighten all three sides of the chuck. Chuck key on left, Chuck on right.[[File:...chuck.png|none|thumb]]
# Adjust position of work-table for your work piece.
## The table height and rotational position can be adjusted using the handle on the column:
### Loosen the locking handle on the rear of the table bracket. NOTE: It is important to unlock this handle before adjusting the table
### Rotate the crank handle attached to the rack to raise/lower the table to desired height.
### Swing the table around the column to the desired position.
### Retighten the locking handle, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## To tilt the table:
### Loosen the bolt underneath the table using included 27mm closed end wrench.
### Loosen set screw underneath the previous bolt using 5mm Allen key.
### Tilt table to desired angle.
### Retighten bolt and set screw, and ensure table is securely locked in place before drilling.
## For blind holes, lock the table at desired depth
### To lock the quill at a certain depth, pull the quill lever down to the desired level and turn the quill lock handle clockwise and tighten firmly.
### If the quill lock handle is not fully tightened when it reaches its limit:
#### Pull the handle out along the screw so it freely rotates
#### Rotate back counter-clockwise
#### Set handle fully back down in place on screw
#### Tighten further until snug and quill is locked in place
# Line piece up with drill bit and fasten down onto work table using a clamp or vice. If drilling a through hole, put a piece of FLAT scrap wood under the piece being drilled to avoid a blowout.
# Turn safety lock off on drill press located on the right side of the machine. As seen in the picture below off to the right. Safety lock in read and yellow on right of picture.[[File:...voyagerthing.png|none|thumb]]
# Now the display screen should be on. Using the buttons adjust the speed to the specific speed needed to cut the materials.
## To use the speed chart:
### Go to the Menu > Speed Chart.
### Select the type of drill bit.
### Select the drill bit size.
### Select the work piece material.
### Confirm the new set speed. 6. The display will return to the default screen with the new speed selected.
# After getting everything set up, turn the drill press on. (NEVER put your hand or any other body part in the path of the drill)
# Pull the lever to drill hole. (NEVER move workpiece while drilling a hole)
# Turn machine off before drilling next hole and when you are done drilling current hole.
# When done, remove drill bit. ( When loose, use one hand to unscrew and the other to hole the drill bit, so the drill bit does not fall and get damaged.)
# When done, return all burrowed equipment and clean work area.

==Safety==
* Make sure you are wearing proper attire. (Short Sleeves, Closed Toed Shoes, No jewelry or any loose hanging accessories, and Safety Glasses)
* Keep body parts or anything else other than the workpiece out of the path of the drill but when on.
* Do not move workpiece while drill bit is inside of workpiece.
* Make sure the drill bit is secure and fastened into the chuck.
* Make sure drill is at the appropriate speed.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/course/view.php?id=31323 Foxtale Quiz]

==Troubleshooting==
* It may be helpful to clamp down smaller work pieces to keep them from spinning while drilling a hole.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====
Maintenance will be done to ensure the quality of the device. Tasks and their corresponding frequencies are listed below.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
|-
|Clean area and Drill Press
|After each use
|Student
|-
|Wax exposed cast iron parts with paste wax
|Monthhly
|Ace
|-
|Lubricate gear and rack in the table elevation mechanism and the splines (grooves) in the spindle with a #2 tube grease, and lubricate the teeth of the feed shaft assembly and quill shaft with one or two drops of light weight oil.
|6 months
|Ace
|}

[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]
This drill press is set on a fixed stand and is used for drilling holes in wood. It has been programmed with various material and bit profiles to make setting the speed extremely simple.

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}). 
__TOC__

== Documentation ==

* [https://www.teknatool.com/product/nova-voyager-dvr-variable-speed-drill-press-exclusive-amazon-bundle/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PzDxsni2wIVFNNkCh3lBAcLEAAYASAAEgL5NvD_BwE Product Home Page]
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6PvDExhAOC8 First look]

== Training ==
* <figure-inline class="mw-default-size"><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline><figure-inline>[[File:wood_drill_press_operation_manual|220x220px]]</figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline></figure-inline>

Vacuum Former

2019-07-17T16:40:37Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Is located in facility=The Vault
|Is used in domain=
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Has icon=File:Vacuum Former.png
|Has icondesc=
|Has iconwname=
|Has image=File:Formech.jpg
|Has imagedesc=
|Has description=
|Has certification=
|Has make=Formech
|Has model=508DT
|Has ace=Nathan Bodenman;nbodenman18@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]The Formech 508DT Vacuum Former is a plastic molding machine that utilizes a vacuum to stretch a thin piece of plastic over a mold. The vacuum former is great for thin plastic molds, although there are some limitations on the shape and size. [[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

The current Ace of the {{PAGENAME}} is '''{{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}}''' ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

__TOC__

== Operation ==
* Place a mold into the tray and lower it.
* Mold cannot be concave and must slant outwards slightly or it will not be removable from the plastic.
* Place plastic into the clamps ensuring it completely covers the white seals.
* Turn on the heaters. They should take about 15 minutes to warm up.
* Lift the table.
* Turn on the vacuum.
* Let the plastic cool, then hit the release button.
* Lower the table to remove the plastic.
* Reset the table.

== Specifications for Molds ==
The vacuum former can mold up to a 19"x17" square and to a depth of 7.3".

Molds cannot be concave in any way.

Molds must slant outwardly slightly to ensure that they can be popped out of the plastic after molding is finished.

== Documentation ==
* [https://formech.com/wp-content/uploads/Manual-508DTFS_UK_070116_lowres.pdf Formech Vacuum Former Manual]

== Training ==

Waterjet Cutter

2019-07-17T16:31:23Z

Czickefoose:

{{#set:
|Is equipment=True
|Has make=OMAX
|Has model=ProtoMAX
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=
|Has function=
|Has icon=File:waterjet_cutter_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Waterjet Cutter Icon
|Has iconwname=File:waterjet_cutter_icon.png
|Has image=File:waterjet_cutter_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The ProtoMax Waterjet Cutter
|Has description=Used for precision cutting of tough materials.
|Has QR code=
|Has ace=Donald Williams;dwilliams16@georgefox.edu
}}
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icon|link=none}}|100px|left|top|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has icondesc}}]]
[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The waterjet Cutter is a machine that uses highly pressurized water with a flow of an abrasive material to perform computer controlled cuts on a wide variety of materials, including 1" steel. This is helpful for creating parts with intricate designs for car engines, mounting brackets, and decorative plates. Another benefit of the waterjet is that there is minimal temperature change during the process which makes it perfect for cutting temperature sensitive materials. Check out the video below to see the waterjet in action.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE4Fz8v0Lms&feature=youtu.be}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Tool path - The path that the waterjet will follow when cutting out a part. This includes more than just the outline of the part because the waterjet must pierce through the material before performing a cut.
* ProtoMAX LAYOUT- This is the software used to set up a tool path for the water jet and can be found on the laptop that is used with the waterjet.
* MAKE - This is the software that directly communicates with the waterjet to perform a cut from a tool path. It can also be found on the waterjet's laptop.
* Holding posts - The adjustable aluminum rods that are used as mounts for the holding arms.
* Holding arms - These come in several sizes and are used to clamp the material in place while performing a cut.
* Abrasive - This is a sand like substance, in this case garnet, which is mixed with the water to improve cutting.
* Mixing tube - The tip of the nozzle assemble which mixes the water and abrasive together.

==== User Manuals ====
[https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/accessories-home.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7CACCESSORY%20%20GUIDES%7C_____0 Complete list of ProtoMAX manuals]

==Training==
====Overview====

The waterjet cutter is an amazing tool that can be used on a wide variety of materials including 1" steel! However, it is limited to a 12" by 12" cut area with a 1" thickness being its maximum. Make sure the waterjet cutter is capable of handling your part and your material before going through all of the setup procedures. Like cutting many other two dimensional cutting tools, the cutting process should begin with a DXF file created from Solidworks or a similar software. Once a DXF fie has been created it can then be used to create a tool path using ProtoMAX LAYOUT. The detailed steps to do do this can be found in the general procedure but the most important step is to ensure that the waterjet pierces the material outside of the part outline. After the tool path is created and the machine has been properly set up, the job can be posted to the MAKE software, which is installed on the waterjet's laptop computer, to perform the cut.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the waterjet, the student will design a part in ProtoMAX LAYOUT, create a tool path for the part, and then cut it out. As part of the process the student will also perform the correct set up and shut down procedures. The part for this demonstration can be found in the procedure.

====General Procedure====
'''Part Design in ProtoMAX LAYOUT:'''
# Open ProtoMAX LAYOUT. Your screen should look something like this. [[File:ProtoMAX_LAYOUT.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Line" tool from the "Draw" menu on the left of the screen and create a 2" square with a 1" square notch in the top right corner. To do this, click anywhere on the screen to start the first line. This will bring a popup "Specify Dimensions" box where you will enter 2 into the "Rise (dy)" box. This will create a 2" vertical line. Select the "Line" tool again at the top of the first line and enter 1 into the "Run (dx)" box. This will create a 1" horizontal line to the right. Repeat this process until the box looks like this. The last line at the bottom can by created by selecting both open edges with the "Line" tool. [[File:Basic_shape_of_box.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Circle" tool and choose the intersect option from the bottom of the screen. Click the top, left corner of the square and enter 0.5 for the diameter of the circle.
# Select the circle using the "Select" tool from the "Edit" menu on the left of the screen (make sure to select the top and bottom of the circle). Next, select the "Move" tool from the left side of the screen and choose the "Intersect" option from the bottom of the screen.
# Click on the center of the circle where the corner of the square is and enter 0.5 and -0.5 for the "Run" and "Rise" of the movement. Your screen should look something like this. [[File:Box_with_circle.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''Tool Paths''':

Most of the time, you will not be using ProtoMAX LAYOUT to design a part. Thankfully, this program can accept ".dxf" files, but you still have to create the tool paths. If using a ".dxf" file, import the file to skip the last section and start here to give it a tool path.

Before showing you how to create a tool path, there are a couple of things that you must keep in mind. When the waterjet cuts it has a kerf which means it will take away some of the material it is cutting and you do not want it to be taking material away from your part. Instead, you want to remove material from the scrap that is not critical to the part's function and as a result the tool path must be created with this in mind. To do this, you must first keep in mind that the waterjet will always cut on the left side of the tool path lines. This changes based on the direction the nozzle is traveling; for example if the nozzle travels clockwise around a circle it will remove excess material outside of the circle and if it travels counterclockwise it will remove excess material from the inside of the circle. Because of this, you must control the direction that the nozzle will travel. For an outside cut, you want it to cut on the outside of the line to preserve the proper dimensions of the part. For and inside cut, you want the opposite of that. For a ring, you would want the nozzle to travel clockwise for the outside cut and counter-clockwise for the inside cut. To control the direction of the nozzle, place lead-in and lead-out lines to specify the start or end of a cut and the cut direction. It is better to cut the inner bits first and then the outer bits last; and don't let the nozzle travel over any holes that are already cut.

# Zoom in closer to the circle. Select the "Lead i/o" tool from the "Draw" menu on the left of the screen. Select the bottom edge of the circle and move the cursor upwards and click to create a lead in and out from the center of the circle. This will tell the waterjet to cut on the inside of the circle. Looking at this picture, you can see that one line is longer than the other. This longer line is the lead-in line. The nozzle will penetrate the material from the beginning of the long line and work its way down to the bottom of the circle. Once the nozzle hits the bottom, it will start counter-clockwise because the lead-in line is positioned at a slight angle to make counter-clockwise and easier direction than clockwise. This is how you tell the nozzle which direction to cut.[[File:Lead_i-o.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Next, place a "Lead i/o" near the bottom of the left wall on the square moving your cursor to the left and clicking to tell the machine to cut on the outside of the box.[[File:Lead_io2.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Line" tool and connect the long, lead-in line of the box to the short, lead-out line of the circle. This is a traverse line telling the machine to move from the circle to the box after it has finished cutting the circle.
# Use the line tool and click on the long, lead-in line for the circle. Place the other end of the line so that it is at least 1/8" past both the left and bottom edge of the part. This will be the origin for the part and the cut. It should look something like this:[[File:Design_with_traverse_lines.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Now you get to decide the quality of each cut. Select the button at the bottom of your screen labeled "Quality". You should see a range from 1 to 5, a Traverse, and Lead i/o. The range of 1 to 5 will change the machines cutting speed. The higher quality is 5 (slower) and the lowest quality is 1 (faster). Choose a quality of 5 for the circle by clicking "5" and then selecting every part of the circle. Do the same for the outer edge but with a quality of 1. Your part should look like this. Leave the traverse lines as green. This indicates where you don't want the machine to cut. [[File:Quality_lines.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Sometimes there are extra points or lines that are unnecessary. To remove these points, click "Clean", click "start" on the popup window, and "okay" on the second popup window. Doing this will insure a tidier cut.
# The last step is saving the file to be cut. Click "Post" on the right of your screen. If you have not saved yet, this will ask you to save your drawing; do so. It will then bring you to a window asking you to "Pick Start". Select end of the traverse line that you defined as the origin.
# A window will popup showing the tool path. Zoom in closer to your part and inspect where the tool path is. The program will display cuts as a thick red line. Make sure that these projected cut lines are on the proper side of the line that you specified. If all looks well, hit "save" on the bottom, left of your screen.
'''Waterjet Operation :'''
# Open the water valve located on the wall behind the waterjet. It will be open when the handle is parallel to the water pipe. Be sure to only turn in on BEFORE powering the machine.
# Check the pressure gauge to verify that the water pressure is 40 psi or greater.
# Fill the tank to the top of the metal ribs with the water hose on the right side of the machine.
# Check the garnet hopper. If it is low, fill it up.
# Power on the computer and plug in the USB.
# Power on the waterjet cutter.
# Open MAKE.
# Zero the waterjet cutter head using MAKE.
# Push the clear plastic hose into the hole located on the side of the nozzle. This hose is called the abrasive feed tube and is used to mix abrasive into the water.
# Position the nozzle between two of the metal ribs, close the lid, and test the nozzle using MAKE. When closing the lid, the support bar on the right side of the lid must be lifted otherwise it will not close. There are two things that should be checked when performing the nozzle test. First, check that the water is flowing through the nozzle. This is necessary because the nozzle can get clogged. Second, check that there is abrasive flowing through plastic tube. It flows quickly but can be identified by a sparkling in the tube as it flows.
#Open the lid, position the material in the machine, and clamp it down. To clamp down the material, first slip the clamping post into the slot on the crossbar and the twist clockwise to tighten it into place. Then slide the material clamp over the post and push down to tighten. Repeat this process with any other clamps that are needed to secure the material. The clamping system can be seen below.[[File:Waterjet_clamps.jpg|none|thumb|479x479px]]
# Load the cut file into MAKE, select the material being cut, and enter its thickness.
# Set the origin point for the machine in MAKE.
# Position the nozzle over the material and adjust the height of the nozzle very carefully making sure the adjustment tool has enough room to wiggle up and down. Do this by loosening the knob on the side of the nozzle with one hand while holding the nozzle with the other. Be very careful not to drop the nozzle onto the material as it could be broken. Slide the adjustment tool, pictured below, under the nozzle and then carefully lower the nozzle onto it. Tighten the knob once the nozzle is positioned correctly.
# Continue to fill the tank with more water so that there is about 1/8" of water above the surface of the material.
# Execute a dry run using MAKE while ensuring that the nozzle will not collide with anything.
# Flip the orange rubber cone down, run the cut. While the cut is running look for material excess floating up; pieces of cut material floating up and getting wedged between the nozzle and other material or clamps could cause a catastrophic failure. If you see any of these things, pause the cut and remove any obstructions before resuming.
'''Waterjet Shutdown:'''
# Remove the material and clamps from the work area.
# Remove the abrasive feed tube from the nozzle.
# Position the nozzle between two of the metal ribs and run a nozzle test to clear any remaining abrasive from the nozzle and prevent future clogging. Also known as purging the nozzle of garnet.
# Bring the nozzle back to its home position.
# Close MAKE.
# Shut down the laptop.
# Turn off the waterjet.
# Push down on the drain tube to begin letting water out of the tank. Do not pull on the drain tube because it can pop off.
# Drain the tank till it is half full or less. While the water is draining, use the hose to wash off any abrasive in the work area or stuck to the side of the machine.
# Close the lid.
# Close the water valve so that the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.

== Safety ==
The waterjet can be a very dangerous machine if not used properly so here are some important safety items to keep in mind. First, Jesus forgives, but 30,000 psi doesn't. So pay attention to these precautions and be safe while operating this machine.
# NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER turn on the machine without first turning on the water! You could destroy the machine...and your reputation.
# If you see water squirting out the side of the machine while running a cut, don't touch it! It is the fountain of "Bye Bye Fingers."
# Wear rubber gloves while dealing with the water in the tank. The water in there is a nasty pool of bacteria and chemicals just waiting to crawl into your open wounds.
# If you have true "talent" and manage to run the water jet while your hand is underneath it, you have the opportunity of going to the ER and taking with you a medical card that tells the doctors how to treat you so you don't die.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/enrol/index.php?id=31413 Water Jet FoxTALE Course]

==Troubleshooting==
There are a few common issues you may run into when using the waterjet. First, there may be an issue reaching the proper water level for your material. This is caused by the drain tube on the right side of the tank being at the incorrect height and can be fixed by pushing the drain tube up or down to remove water or allow more to enter. Make sure to wear gloves when doing this to protect from bacteria and never pull on the tube because it can be pulled off. If the tube does pull off don't panic; wait for the water to drain low enough to push the tube back on and then do so.

Another issue is that the abrasive may not be flowing through its tube when performing the nozzle test. If this is happening do not perform a cut until the abrasive if flowing properly. The first thing you should check is the abrasive tube. Make sure that it is completely pushed into the nozzle so that it can be pulled out of the hopper by the vacuum within the nozzle. If this does not fix the issue then there is most likely water in the hose and maybe even in the hopper which causes the abrasive to stick to the feed tube tube instead of flowing through properly. Remove the hopper splash guard, pull the feed tube out of the feed block, and then use an air hose to blow through the feed to clean out any moisture. These components can be seen in the image below. Sometimes the water will travel into the hopper itself and cause the abrasive to clump together. When this happens either wait a day for everything to dry out or carefully disassemble the hopper system and dry it out with the help of an ACE and the [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401434/nozzle-clog.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7COPERATION%20GUIDE%7C_____11 user manual].
[[File:Waterjet_Abrasive.jpg|none|thumb|799x799px]]

Water in the abrasive feed tube is most often caused by the nozzle being clogged. Unclogging the nozzle is a fairly intensive and delicate process and should be done with the help of an ACE. Always reference the manufacturer's [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401434/nozzle-clog.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7COPERATION%20GUIDE%7C_____11 nozzle clog procedure] for the complete process (video included). Before unclogging the nozzle, remove the yellow rubber cone and raise the nozzle as high as it can go while being careful not to let it drop onto the material. [[File:Waterjet_Nozzle.jpg|none|thumb|496x496px]]
#Once this is done, use the included torque wrench to loosen the set screw holding the mixing tube (1) in place. Make sure to hold onto the tube when doing this so it does not drop out.
# Remove the tube and reinsert it upside down so that the pointed end is facing upward.
# Very carefully tighten the set screw to 15 in-lb using the torque wrench. The torque wrench will click when 15 in-lb is reached but it is very faint so tighten slowly or the entire tube will be crushed.
# Run a nozzle test using MAKE and make sure water is flowing through the tube.
# Using the torque wrench, carefully remove the mixing tube and reinsert it in its proper position with the pointed end facing down.
# Replace the yellow rubber cone and then run a nozzle test to check that the clog is gone.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The waterjet has several items that need to be maintained by the student or the ACE. Please refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur. The details of each procedure can be found below as well.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|1
|General washing
|After each use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change pump oil
|After first 50 hrs of use and every subsequent 500 hrs of use
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|3
|Change water filter
|When the filter gauge approaches 25 psi or lower while the pump is running
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|4
|Remove material from tank bottom
|Whenever garnet abrasive reaches the bottom of the garnet collection bins or when excessive water turbulence is noticed during cutting
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|5
|Replace table slats
|Rotate monthly or more frequently if needed; replace when excessively scored and no longer stable
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|6
|Lubricate x-y axis
|After 500 cutting hours or if squeaking
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|7
|Replace nozzle filter
|After approximately 80 cutting hours or more frequently if needed
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|8
|Rotate mixing tube
|Rotate 90 degrees (one quarter turn) every 8 hours of cutting to even out wear
|Ace or Justin
|
|}
# General washing - This consists of washing off any abrasive from the inside of the machine into the bottom of the tank using the water hose, including the lid.
# For details on changing the pump oil click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-pump-oil.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7CMAINTENANCE%20GUIDE%7CPump%20Maintenance%7C_____2 here].
# For details on changing the water filter click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-water-filter.htm here].
# For details on cleaning the tank click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/clean-catcher-tank.htm here].
# For details on changing the table slats click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-water-filter.htm here].
# For details on lubricating the y axis click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/lube-y-lead-screw.htm here] or [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/lube-x-lead-screw.htm here] for the x axis.
# For details on changing the nozzle filter click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/replace-nozzle-filter.htm here].
# To rotate the mixing tube, first loosen the set screw with the torque wrench while holding the tube in the other hand. Twist the tube a quarter turn and make sure it is pressed all the way up so that it is seated properly. Tighten the set screw with the torque wrench set to 15 in-lb while looking out for the faint click which signifies the proper tightness. Make sure to set the torque wrench to 0 when finished.

Waterjet Cutter

2019-07-17T16:21:47Z

Czickefoose:

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|Has model=ProtoMAX
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
|Is located in facility= Machine Shop
|Is used in domain=
|Has function=
|Has icon=File:waterjet_cutter_icon.png
|Has icondesc=Waterjet Cutter Icon
|Has iconwname=File:waterjet_cutter_icon.png
|Has image=File:waterjet_cutter_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The ProtoMax Waterjet Cutter
|Has description=Used for precision cutting of tough materials.
|Has QR code=
|Has ace=Donald Williams;dwilliams16@georgefox.edu
}}
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[[{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has image|link=none}}|300px|thumb|upright=1.5|{{#show: {{FULLPAGENAME}}|?Has imagedesc}}]]

Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The waterjet Cutter is a machine that uses highly pressurized water with a flow of an abrasive material to perform computer controlled cuts on a wide variety of materials, including 1" steel. This is helpful for creating parts with intricate designs for car engines, mounting brackets, and decorative plates. Another benefit of the waterjet is that there is minimal temperature change during the process which makes it perfect for cutting temperature sensitive materials. Check out the video below to see the waterjet in action.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE4Fz8v0Lms&feature=youtu.be}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Tool path - The path that the waterjet will follow when cutting out a part. This includes more than just the outline of the part because the waterjet must pierce through the material before performing a cut.
* ProtoMAX LAYOUT- This is the software used to set up a tool path for the water jet and can be found on the laptop that is used with the waterjet.
* MAKE - This is the software that directly communicates with the waterjet to perform a cut from a tool path. It can also be found on the waterjet's laptop.
* Holding posts - The adjustable aluminum rods that are used as mounts for the holding arms.
* Holding arms - These come in several sizes and are used to clamp the material in place while performing a cut.
* Abrasive - This is a sand like substance, in this case garnet, which is mixed with the water to improve cutting.
* Mixing tube - The tip of the nozzle assemble which mixes the water and abrasive together.

==== User Manuals ====
[https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/accessories-home.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7CACCESSORY%20%20GUIDES%7C_____0 Complete list of ProtoMAX manuals]

==Training==
====Overview====

The waterjet cutter is an amazing tool that can be used on a wide variety of materials including 1" steel! However, it is limited to a 12" by 12" cut area with a 1" thickness being its maximum. Make sure the waterjet cutter is capable of handling your part and your material before going through all of the setup procedures. Like cutting many other two dimensional cutting tools, the cutting process should begin with a DXF file created from Solidworks or a similar software. Once a DXF fie has been created it can then be used to create a tool path using ProtoMAX LAYOUT. The detailed steps to do do this can be found in the general procedure but the most important step is to ensure that the waterjet pierces the material outside of the part outline. After the tool path is created and the machine has been properly set up, the job can be posted to the MAKE software, which is installed on the waterjet's laptop computer, to perform the cut.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the waterjet, the student will design a part in ProtoMAX LAYOUT, create a tool path for the part, and then cut it out. As part of the process the student will also perform the correct set up and shut down procedures. The part for this demonstration can be found in the procedure.

====General Procedure====
'''Part Design in ProtoMAX LAYOUT:'''
# Open ProtoMAX LAYOUT. Your screen should look something like this. [[File:ProtoMAX_LAYOUT.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Line" tool from the "Draw" menu on the left of the screen and create a 2" square with a 1" square notch in the top right corner. To do this, click anywhere on the screen to start the first line. This will bring a popup "Specify Dimensions" box where you will enter 2 into the "Rise (dy)" box. This will create a 2" vertical line. Select the "Line" tool again at the top of the first line and enter 1 into the "Run (dx)" box. This will create a 1" horizontal line to the right. Repeat this process until the box looks like this. The last line at the bottom can by created by selecting both open edges with the "Line" tool. [[File:Basic_shape_of_box.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Circle" tool and choose the intersect option from the bottom of the screen. Click the top, left corner of the square and enter 0.5 for the diameter of the circle.
# Select the circle using the "Select" tool from the "Edit" menu on the left of the screen (make sure to select the top and bottom of the circle). Next, select the "Move" tool from the left side of the screen and choose the "Intersect" option from the bottom of the screen.
# Click on the center of the circle where the corner of the square is and enter 0.5 and -0.5 for the "Run" and "Rise" of the movement. Your screen should look something like this. [[File:Box_with_circle.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''Tool Paths''':

Most of the time, you will not be using ProtoMAX LAYOUT to design a part. Thankfully, this program can accept ".dxf" files, but you still have to create the tool paths. If using a ".dxf" file, import the file to skip the last section and start here to give it a tool path.

Before showing you how to create a tool path, there are a couple of things that you must keep in mind. When the waterjet cuts it has a kerf which means it will take away some of the material it is cutting and you do not want it to be taking material away from your part. Instead, you want to remove material from the scrap that is not critical to the part's function and as a result the tool path must be created with this in mind. To do this, you must first keep in mind that the waterjet will always cut on the left side of the tool path lines. This changes based on the direction the nozzle is traveling; for example if the nozzle travels clockwise around a circle it will remove excess material outside of the circle and if it travels counterclockwise it will remove excess material from the inside of the circle. Because of this, you must control the direction that the nozzle will travel. For an outside cut, you want it to cut on the outside of the line to preserve the proper dimensions of the part. For and inside cut, you want the opposite of that. For a ring, you would want the nozzle to travel clockwise for the outside cut and counter-clockwise for the inside cut. To control the direction of the nozzle, place lead-in and lead-out lines to specify the start or end of a cut and the cut direction. It is better to cut the inner bits first and then the outer bits last; and don't let the nozzle travel over any holes that are already cut.

# Zoom in closer to the circle. Select the "Lead i/o" tool from the "Draw" menu on the left of the screen. Select the bottom edge of the circle and move the cursor upwards and click to create a lead in and out from the center of the circle. This will tell the waterjet to cut on the inside of the circle. Looking at this picture, you can see that one line is longer than the other. This longer line is the lead-in line. The nozzle will penetrate the material from the beginning of the long line and work its way down to the bottom of the circle. Once the nozzle hits the bottom, it will start counter-clockwise because the lead-in line is positioned at a slight angle to make counter-clockwise and easier direction than clockwise. This is how you tell the nozzle which direction to cut.[[File:Lead_i-o.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Next, place a "Lead i/o" near the bottom of the left wall on the square moving your cursor to the left and clicking to tell the machine to cut on the outside of the box.[[File:Lead_io2.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Line" tool and connect the long, lead-in line of the box to the short, lead-out line of the circle. This is a traverse line telling the machine to move from the circle to the box after it has finished cutting the circle.
# Use the line tool and click on the long, lead-in line for the circle. Place the other end of the line so that it is at least 1/8" past both the left and bottom edge of the part. This will be the origin for the part and the cut. It should look something like this:[[File:Design_with_traverse_lines.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Now you get to decide the quality of each cut. Select the button at the bottom of your screen labeled "Quality". You should see a range from 1 to 5, a Traverse, and Lead i/o. The range of 1 to 5 will change the machines cutting speed. The higher quality is 5 (slower) and the lowest quality is 1 (faster). Choose a quality of 5 for the circle by clicking "5" and then selecting every part of the circle. Do the same for the outer edge but with a quality of 1. Your part should look like this. Leave the traverse lines as green. This indicates where you don't want the machine to cut. [[File:Quality_lines.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Sometimes there are extra points or lines that are unnecessary. To remove these points, click "Clean", click "start" on the popup window, and "okay" on the second popup window. Doing this will insure a tidier cut.
# The last step is saving the file to be cut. Click "Post" on the right of your screen. If you have not saved yet, this will ask you to save your drawing; do so. It will then bring you to a window asking you to "Pick Start". Select end of the traverse line that you defined as the origin.
# A window will popup showing the tool path. Zoom in closer to your part and inspect where the tool path is. The program will display cuts as a thick red line. Make sure that these projected cut lines are on the proper side of the line that you specified. If all looks well, hit "save" on the bottom, left of your screen.
'''Waterjet Operation :'''
# Open the water valve located on the wall behind the waterjet. It will be open when the handle is parallel to the water pipe. Be sure to only turn in on BEFORE powering the machine.
# Check the pressure gauge to verify that the water pressure is 40 psi or greater.
# Fill the tank to the top of the metal ribs with the water hose on the right side of the machine.
# Check the garnet hopper. If it is low, fill it up.
# Power on the computer and plug in the USB.
# Power on the water jet cutter.
# Open MAKE.
# Zero the water jet cutter head using MAKE.
# Push the clear plastic hose into the hole located on the side of the nozzle. This hose is called the abrasive feed tube and is used to mix abrasive into the water.
# Position the nozzle between two of the metal ribs, close the lid, and test the nozzle using MAKE. When closing the lid, the support bar on the right side of the lid must be lifted otherwise it will not close. There are two things that should be checked when performing the nozzle test. First, check that the water is flowing through the nozzle. This is necessary because the nozzle can get clogged. Second, check that there is abrasive flowing through plastic tube. It flows quickly but can be identified by a sparkling in the tube as it flows.
#Open the lid, position the material in the machine, and clamp it down. To clamp down the material, first slip the clamping post into the slot on the crossbar and the twist clockwise to tighten it into place. Then slide the material clamp over the post and push down to tighten. Repeat this process with any other clamps that are needed to secure the material. The clamping system can be seen below.[[File:Waterjet_clamps.jpg|none|thumb|479x479px]]
# Load the cut file into MAKE, select the material being cut, and enter its thickness.
# Set the origin point for the machine in MAKE.
# Position the nozzle over the material and adjust the height of the nozzle very carefully making sure the adjustment tool has enough room to wiggle up and down. Do this by loosening the knob on the side of the nozzle with one hand while holding the nozzle with the other. Be very careful not to drop the nozzle onto the material as it could be broken. Slide the adjustment tool, pictured below, under the nozzle and then carefully lower the nozzle onto it. Tighten the knob once the nozzle is positioned correctly.
# Continue to fill the tank with more water so that there is about 1/8" of water above the surface of the material.
# Execute a dry run using MAKE while ensuring that the nozzle will not collide with anything.
# Flip the orange rubber cone down, run the cut. While the cut is running look for material excess floating up; pieces of cut material floating up and getting wedged between the nozzle and other material or clamps could cause a catastrophic failure. If you see any of these things, pause the cut and remove any obstructions before resuming.
'''Waterjet Shutdown:'''
# Remove the material and clamps from the work area.
# Remove the abrasive feed tube from the nozzle.
# Position the nozzle between two of the metal ribs and run a nozzle test to clear any remaining abrasive from the nozzle and prevent future clogging. Also known as purging the nozzle of garnet.
# Bring the nozzle back to its home position.
# Close MAKE.
# Shut down the laptop.
# Turn off the waterjet.
# Push down on the drain tube to begin letting water out of the tank. Do not pull on the drain tube because it can pop off.
# Drain the tank till it is half full or less. While the water is draining, use the hose to wash off any abrasive in the work area or stuck to the side of the machine.
# Close the lid.
# Close the water valve so that the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.

== Safety ==
The water jet can be a very dangerous machine if not used properly so here are some important safety items to keep in mind. First, Jesus forgives, but 30,000 psi doesn't. So pay attention to these precautions and be safe while operating this machine.
# NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER turn on the machine without first turning on the water! You could destroy the machine...and your reputation.
# If you see water squirting out the side of the machine while running a cut, don't touch it! It is the fountain of "Bye Bye Fingers."
# Wear rubber gloves while dealing with the water in the tank. The water in there is a nasty pool of bacteria and chemicals just waiting to crawl into your open wounds.
# If you have true "talent" and manage to run the water jet while your hand is underneath it, you have the opportunity of going to the ER and taking with you a medical card that tells the doctors how to treat you so you don't die.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/enrol/index.php?id=31413 Water Jet FoxTALE Course]

==Troubleshooting==
There are a few common issues you may run into when using the waterjet. First, there may be an issue reaching the proper water level for your material. This is caused by the drain tube on the right side of the tank being at the incorrect height and can be fixed by pushing the drain tube up or down to remove water or allow more to enter. Make sure to wear gloves when doing this to protect from bacteria and never pull on the tube because it can be pulled off. If the tube does pull off don't panic; wait for the water to drain low enough to push the tube back on and then do so.

Another issue is that the abrasive may not be flowing through its tube when performing the nozzle test. If this is happening do not perform a cut until the abrasive if flowing properly. The first thing you should check is the abrasive tube. Make sure that it is completely pushed into the nozzle so that it can be pulled out of the hopper by the vacuum within the nozzle. If this does not fix the issue then there is most likely water in the hose and maybe even in the hopper which causes the abrasive to stick to the feed tube tube instead of flowing through properly. Remove the hopper splash guard, pull the feed tube out of the feed block, and then use an air hose to blow through the feed to clean out any moisture. These components can be seen in the image below. Sometimes the water will travel into the hopper itself and cause the abrasive to clump together. When this happens either wait a day for everything to dry out or carefully disassemble the hopper system and dry it out with the help of an ACE and the [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401434/nozzle-clog.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7COPERATION%20GUIDE%7C_____11 user manual].
[[File:Waterjet_Abrasive.jpg|none|thumb|799x799px]]

Water in the abrasive feed tube is most often caused by the nozzle being clogged. Unclogging the nozzle is a fairly intensive and delicate process and should be done with the help of an ACE. Always reference the manufacturer's [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401434/nozzle-clog.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7COPERATION%20GUIDE%7C_____11 nozzle clog procedure] for the complete process (video included). Before unclogging the nozzle, remove the yellow rubber cone and raise the nozzle as high as it can go while being careful not to let it drop onto the material. [[File:Waterjet_Nozzle.jpg|none|thumb|496x496px]]
#Once this is done, use the included torque wrench to loosen the set screw holding the mixing tube (1) in place. Make sure to hold onto the tube when doing this so it does not drop out.
# Remove the tube and reinsert it upside down so that the pointed end is facing upward.
# Very carefully tighten the set screw to 15 in-lb using the torque wrench. The torque wrench will click when 15 in-lb is reached but it is very faint so tighten slowly or the entire tube will be crushed.
# Run a nozzle test using MAKE and make sure water is flowing through the tube.
# Using the torque wrench, carefully remove the mixing tube and reinsert it in its proper position with the pointed end facing down.
# Replace the yellow rubber cone and then run a nozzle test to check that the clog is gone.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The waterjet has several items that need to be maintained by the student or the ACE. Please refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur. The details of each procedure can be found below as well.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|1
|General washing
|After each use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change pump oil
|After first 50 hrs of use and every subsequent 500 hrs of use
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|3
|Change water filter
|When the filter gauge approaches 25 psi or lower while the pump is running
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|4
|Remove material from tank bottom
|Whenever garnet abrasive reaches the bottom of the garnet collection bins or when excessive water turbulence is noticed during cutting
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|5
|Replace table slats
|Rotate monthly or more frequently if needed; replace when excessively scored and no longer stable
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|6
|Lubricate x-y axis
|After 500 cutting hours or if squeaking
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|7
|Replace nozzle filter
|After approximately 80 cutting hours or more frequently if needed
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|8
|Rotate mixing tube
|Rotate 90 degrees (one quarter turn) every 8 hours of cutting to even out wear
|Ace or Justin
|
|}
# General washing - This consists of washing off any abrasive from the inside of the machine into the bottom of the tank using the water hose, including the lid.
# For details on changing the pump oil click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-pump-oil.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7CMAINTENANCE%20GUIDE%7CPump%20Maintenance%7C_____2 here].
# For details on changing the water filter click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-water-filter.htm here].
# For details on cleaning the tank click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/clean-catcher-tank.htm here].
# For details on changing the table slats click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-water-filter.htm here].
# For details on lubricating the y axis click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/lube-y-lead-screw.htm here] or [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/lube-x-lead-screw.htm here] for the x axis.
# For details on changing the nozzle filter click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/replace-nozzle-filter.htm here].
# To rotate the mixing tube, first loosen the set screw with the torque wrench while holding the tube in the other hand. Twist the tube a quarter turn and make sure it is pressed all the way up so that it is seated properly. Tighten the set screw with the torque wrench set to 15 in-lb while looking out for the faint click which signifies the proper tightness. Make sure to set the torque wrench to 0 when finished.

Waterjet Cutter

2019-07-10T18:15:07Z

Czickefoose:

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|Has description=Used for precision cutting of tough materials.
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Make: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has make}}

Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

Ace: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has name}} ({{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has ace.Has email address}}).

Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The waterjet Cutter is a machine that uses highly pressurized water with a flow of an abrasive material to perform computer controlled cuts on a wide variety of materials, including 1" steel. This is helpful for creating parts with intricate designs for car engines, mounting brackets, and decorative plates. Another benefit of the water jet is that there is minimal temperature change during the process which makes it perfect for cutting temperature sensitive materials. Check out the video below to see the water jet in action.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE4Fz8v0Lms&feature=youtu.be}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Tool path - The path that the water jet will follow when cutting out a part. This includes more than just the outline of the part because the water jet must pierce through the material before performing a cut.
* ProtoMAX LAYOUT- This is the software used to set up a tool path for the water jet and can be found on the laptop that is used with the waterjet.
* MAKE - This is the software that directly communicates with the waterjet to perform a cut from a tool path. It can also be found on the waterjet's laptop.
* Holding posts - The adjustable aluminum rods that are used as mounts for the holding arms.
* Holding arms - These come in several sizes and are used to clamp the material in place while performing a cut.
* Abrasive - This is a sand like substance, in this case garnet, which is mixed with the water to improve cutting.
* Mixing tube - The tip of the nozzle assemble which mixes the water and abrasive together.

==== User Manuals ====
[https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/accessories-home.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7CACCESSORY%20%20GUIDES%7C_____0 Complete list of ProtoMAX manuals]

==Training==
====Overview====

The waterjet cutter is an amazing tool that can be used on a wide variety of materials including 1" steel! However, it is limited to a 12" by 12" cut area with a 1" thickness being its maximum. Make sure the waterjet cutter is capable of handling your part and your material before going through all of the setup procedures. Like cutting many other two dimensional cutting tools, the cutting process should begin with a DXF file created from Solidworks or a similar software. Once a DXF fie has been created it can then be used to create a tool path using ProtoMAX LAYOUT. The detailed steps to do do this can be found in the general procedure but the most important step is to ensure that the water jet pierces the material outside of the part outline. After the tool path is created and the machine has been properly set up, the job can be posted to the MAKE software, which is installed on the water jet's laptop computer, to perform the cut.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the waterjet, the student will design a part in ProtoMAX LAYOUT, create a tool path for the part, and then cut it out. As part of the process the student will also perform the correct set up and shut down procedures. The part for this demonstration can be found in the procedure.

====General Procedure====
'''Part Design in ProtoMAX LAYOUT:'''
# Open ProtoMAX LAYOUT. Your screen should look something like this. [[File:ProtoMAX_LAYOUT.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Line" tool from the "Draw" menu on the left of the screen and create a 2" square with a 1" square notch in the top right corner. To do this, click anywhere on the screen to start the first line. This will bring a popup "Specify Dimensions" box where you will enter 2 into the "Rise (dy)" box. This will create a 2" vertical line. Select the "Line" tool again at the top of the first line and enter 1 into the "Run (dx)" box. This will create a 1" horizontal line to the right. Repeat this process until the box looks like this. The last line at the bottom can by created by selecting both open edges with the "Line" tool. [[File:Basic_shape_of_box.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Circle" tool and choose the intersect option from the bottom of the screen. Click the top, left corner of the square and enter 0.5 for the diameter of the circle.
# Select the circle using the "Select" tool from the "Edit" menu on the left of the screen (make sure to select the top and bottom of the circle). Next, select the "Move" tool from the left side of the screen and choose the "Intersect" option from the bottom of the screen.
# Click on the center of the circle where the corner of the square is and enter 0.5 and -0.5 for the "Run" and "Rise" of the movement. Your screen should look something like this. [[File:Box_with_circle.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''Tool Paths''':

Most of the time, you will not be using ProtoMAX LAYOUT to design a part. Thankfully, this program can accept ".dxf" files, but you still have to create the tool paths. If using a ".dxf" file, import the file to skip the last section and start here to give it a tool path.

Before showing you how to create a tool path, there are a couple of things that you must keep in mind. When the water jet cuts it has a kerf which means it will take away some of the material it is cutting and you do not want it to be taking material away from your part. Instead, you want to remove material from the scrap that is not critical to the part's function and as a result the tool path must be created with this in mind. To do this, you must first keep in mind that the waterjet will always cut on the left side of the tool path lines. This changes based on the direction the nozzle is traveling; for example if the nozzle travels clockwise around a circle it will remove excess material outside of the circle and if it travels counterclockwise it will remove excess material from the inside of the circle. Because of this, you must control the direction that the nozzle will travel. For an outside cut, you want it to cut on the outside of the line to preserve the proper dimensions of the part. For and inside cut, you want the opposite of that. For a ring, you would want the nozzle to travel clockwise for the outside cut and counter-clockwise for the inside cut. To control the direction of the nozzle, place lead-in and lead-out lines to specify the start or end of a cut and the cut direction. It is better to cut the inner bits first and then the outer bits last; and don't let the nozzle travel over any holes that are already cut.

# Zoom in closer to the circle. Select the "Lead i/o" tool from the "Draw" menu on the left of the screen. Select the bottom edge of the circle and move the cursor upwards and click to create a lead in and out from the center of the circle. This will tell the water jet to cut on the inside of the circle. Looking at this picture, you can see that one line is longer than the other. This longer line is the lead-in line. The nozzle will penetrate the material from the beginning of the long line and work its way down to the bottom of the circle. Once the nozzle hits the bottom, it will start counter-clockwise because the lead-in line is positioned at a slight angle to make counter-clockwise and easier direction than clockwise. This is how you tell the nozzle which direction to cut.[[File:Lead_i-o.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Next, place a "Lead i/o" near the bottom of the left wall on the square moving your cursor to the left and clicking to tell the machine to cut on the outside of the box.[[File:Lead_io2.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Line" tool and connect the long, lead-in line of the box to the short, lead-out line of the circle. This is a traverse line telling the machine to move from the circle to the box after it has finished cutting the circle.
# Use the line tool and click on the long, lead-in line for the circle. Place the other end of the line so that it is at least 1/8" past both the left and bottom edge of the part. This will be the origin for the part and the cut. It should look something like this:[[File:Design_with_traverse_lines.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Now you get to decide the quality of each cut. Select the button at the bottom of your screen labeled "Quality". You should see a range from 1 to 5, a Traverse, and Lead i/o. The range of 1 to 5 will change the machines cutting speed. The higher quality is 5 (slower) and the lowest quality is 1 (faster). Choose a quality of 5 for the circle by clicking "5" and then selecting every part of the circle. Do the same for the outer edge but with a quality of 1. Your part should look like this. Leave the traverse lines as green. This indicates where you don't want the machine to cut. [[File:Quality_lines.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Sometimes there are extra points or lines that are unnecessary. To remove these points, click "Clean", click "start" on the popup window, and "okay" on the second popup window. Doing this will insure a tidier cut.
# The last step is saving the file to be cut. Click "Post" on the right of your screen. If you have not saved yet, this will ask you to save your drawing; do so. It will then bring you to a window asking you to "Pick Start". Select end of the traverse line that you defined as the origin.
# A window will popup showing the tool path. Zoom in closer to your part and inspect where the tool path is. The program will display cuts as a thick red line. Make sure that these projected cut lines are on the proper side of the line that you specified. If all looks well, hit "save" on the bottom, left of your screen.
'''Waterjet Operation :'''
# Open the water valve located on the wall behind the waterjet. It will be open when the handle is parallel to the water pipe.
# Check the pressure gauge to verify that the water pressure is 40 psi or greater.
# Fill the tank to the top of the metal ribs with the water hose on the right side of the machine.
# Check the garnet hopper. If it is low, fill it up.
# Power on the computer and plug in the USB.
# Power on the water jet cutter.
# Open MAKE.
# Zero the water jet cutter head using MAKE.
# Push the clear plastic hose into the hole located on the side of the nozzle. This hose is called the abrasive feed tube and is used to mix abrasive into the water.
# Position the nozzle between two of the metal ribs, close the lid, and test the nozzle using MAKE. When closing the lid, the support bar on the right side of the lid must be lifted otherwise it will not close. There are two things that should be checked when performing the nozzle test. First, check that the water is flowing through the nozzle. This is necessary because the nozzle can get clogged. Second, check that there is abrasive flowing through plastic tube. It flows quickly but can be identified by a sparkling in the tube as it flows.
#Open the lid, position the material in the machine, and clamp it down. To clamp down the material, first slip the clamping post into the slot on the crossbar and the twist clockwise to tighten it into place. Then slide the material clamp over the post and push down to tighten. Repeat this process with any other clamps that are needed to secure the material. The clamping system can be seen below.[[File:Waterjet_clamps.jpg|none|thumb|479x479px]]
# Load the cut file into MAKE, select the material being cut, and enter its thickness.
# Set the origin point for the machine in MAKE.
# Position the nozzle over the material and adjust the height of the nozzle very carefully making sure the adjustment tool has enough room to wiggle up and down. Do this by loosening the knob on the side of the nozzle with one hand while holding the nozzle with the other. Be very careful not to drop the nozzle onto the material as it could be broken. Slide the adjustment tool, pictured below, under the nozzle and then carefully lower the nozzle onto it. Tighten the knob once the nozzle is positioned correctly.
# Continue to fill the tank with more water so that there is about 1/8" of water above the surface of the material.
# Execute a dry run using MAKE while ensuring that the nozzle will not collide with anything.
# Flip the orange rubber cone down, run the cut. While the cut is running look for material excess floating up; pieces of cut material floating up and getting wedged between the nozzle and other material or clamps could cause a catastrophic failure. If you see any of these things, pause the cut and remove any obstructions before resuming.
'''Waterjet Shutdown:'''
# Remove the material and clamps from the work area.
# Remove the abrasive feed tube from the nozzle.
# Position the nozzle between two of the metal ribs and run a nozzle test to clear any remaining abrasive from the nozzle and prevent future clogging
# Bring the nozzle back to its home position.
# Close MAKE.
# Shut down the laptop.
# Turn off the waterjet.
# Push down on the drain tube to begin letting water out of the tank. Do not pull on the drain tube because it can pop off.
# Drain the tank till it is half full or less. While the water is draining, use the hose to wash off any abrasive in the work area or stuck to the side of the machine.
# Close the lid.
# Close the water valve so that the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.

== Safety ==
The water jet can be a very dangerous machine if not used properly so here are some important safety items to keep in mind. First, Jesus forgives, but 30,000 psi doesn't. So pay attention to these precautions and be safe while operating this machine.
# NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER turn on the machine without first turning on the water! You could destroy the machine...and your reputation.
# If you see water squirting out the side of the machine while running a cut, don't touch it! It is the fountain of "Bye Bye Fingers."
# Wear rubber gloves while dealing with the water in the tank. The water in there is a nasty pool of bacteria and chemicals just waiting to crawl into your open wounds.
# If you have true "talent" and manage to run the water jet while your hand is underneath it, you have the opportunity of going to the ER and taking with you a medical card that tells the doctors how to treat you so you don't die.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/enrol/index.php?id=31413 Water Jet FoxTALE Course]

==Troubleshooting==
There are a few common issues you may run into when using the waterjet. First, there may be an issue reaching the proper water level for your material. This is caused by the drain tube on the right side of the tank being at the incorrect height and can be fixed by pushing the drain tube up or down to remove water or allow more to enter. Make sure to wear gloves when doing this to protect from bacteria and never pull on the tube because it can be pulled off. If the tube does pull off don't panic; wait for the water to drain low enough to push the tube back on and then do so.

Another issue is that the abrasive may not be flowing through its tube when performing the nozzle test. If this is happening do not perform a cut until the abrasive if flowing properly. The first thing you should check is the abrasive tube. Make sure that it is completely pushed into the nozzle so that it can be pulled out of the hopper by the vacuum within the nozzle. If this does not fix the issue then there is most likely water in the hose and maybe even in the hopper which causes the abrasive to stick to the feed tube tube instead of flowing through properly. Remove the hopper splash guard, pull the feed tube out of the feed block, and then use an air hose to blow through the feed to clean out any moisture. These components can be seen in the image below. Sometimes the water will travel into the hopper itself and cause the abrasive to clump together. When this happens either wait a day for everything to dry out or carefully disassemble the hopper system and dry it out with the help of an ACE and the [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401434/nozzle-clog.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7COPERATION%20GUIDE%7C_____11 user manual].
[[File:Waterjet_Abrasive.jpg|none|thumb|799x799px]]

Water in the abrasive feed tube is most often caused by the nozzle being clogged. Unclogging the nozzle is a fairly intensive and delicate process and should be done with the help of an ACE. Always reference the manufacturer's [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401434/nozzle-clog.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7COPERATION%20GUIDE%7C_____11 nozzle clog procedure] for the complete process (video included). Before unclogging the nozzle, remove the yellow rubber cone and raise the nozzle as high as it can go while being careful not to let it drop onto the material. [[File:Waterjet_Nozzle.jpg|none|thumb|496x496px]]
#Once this is done, use the included torque wrench to loosen the set screw holding the mixing tube (1) in place. Make sure to hold onto the tube when doing this so it does not drop out.
# Remove the tube and reinsert it upside down so that the pointed end is facing upward.
# Very carefully tighten the set screw to 15 in-lb using the torque wrench. The torque wrench will click when 15 in-lb is reached but it is very faint so tighten slowly or the entire tube will be crushed.
# Run a nozzle test using MAKE and make sure water is flowing through the tube.
# Using the torque wrench, carefully remove the mixing tube and reinsert it in its proper position with the pointed end facing down.
# Replace the yellow rubber cone and then run a nozzle test to check that the clog is gone.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The waterjet has several items that need to be maintained by the student or the ACE. Please refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur. The details of each procedure can be found below as well.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|1
|General washing
|After each use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change pump oil
|After first 50 hrs of use and every subsequent 500 hrs of use
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|3
|Change water filter
|When the filter gauge approaches 25 psi or lower while the pump is running
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|4
|Remove material from tank bottom
|Whenever garnet abrasive reaches the bottom of the garnet collection bins or when excessive water turbulence is noticed during cutting
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|5
|Replace table slats
|Rotate monthly or more frequently if needed; replace when excessively scored and no longer stable
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|6
|Lubricate x-y axis
|After 500 cutting hours or if squeaking
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|7
|Replace nozzle filter
|After approximately 80 cutting hours or more frequently if needed
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|8
|Rotate mixing tube
|Rotate 90 degrees (one quarter turn) every 8 hours of cutting to even out wear
|Ace or Justin
|
|}
# General washing - This consists of washing off any abrasive from the inside of the machine into the bottom of the tank using the water hose, including the lid.
# For details on changing the pump oil click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-pump-oil.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7CMAINTENANCE%20GUIDE%7CPump%20Maintenance%7C_____2 here].
# For details on changing the water filter click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-water-filter.htm here].
# For details on cleaning the tank click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/clean-catcher-tank.htm here].
# For details on changing the table slats click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-water-filter.htm here].
# For details on lubricating the y axis click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/lube-y-lead-screw.htm here] or [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/lube-x-lead-screw.htm here] for the x axis.
# For details on changing the nozzle filter click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/replace-nozzle-filter.htm here].
# To rotate the mixing tube, first loosen the set screw with the torque wrench while holding the tube in the other hand. Twist the tube a quarter turn and make sure it is pressed all the way up so that it is seated properly. Tighten the set screw with the torque wrench set to 15 in-lb while looking out for the faint click which signifies the proper tightness. Make sure to set the torque wrench to 0 when finished.

Waterjet Cutter

2019-07-10T18:13:28Z

Czickefoose:

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|Has model=ProtoMAX
|Has name={{PAGENAME}}
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|Is used in domain=
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|Has icondesc=Waterjet Cutter Icon
|Has iconwname=File:waterjet_cutter_icon.png
|Has image=File:waterjet_cutter_image.jpg
|Has imagedesc=The ProtoMax Waterjet Cutter
|Has description=Used for precision cutting of tough materials.
|Has QR code=
|Has ace=Donald Williams;dwilliams16@georgefox.edu
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Model: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Has model}}

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Location: {{#show: {{PAGENAME}} |?Is located in facility}}

__TOC__

==Description==

The waterjet Cutter is a machine that uses highly pressurized water with a flow of an abrasive material to perform computer controlled cuts on a wide variety of materials, including 1" steel. This is helpful for creating parts with intricate designs for car engines, mounting brackets, and decorative plates. Another benefit of the water jet is that there is minimal temperature change during the process which makes it perfect for cutting temperature sensitive materials. Check out the video below to see the water jet in action.

{{#evu:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UE4Fz8v0Lms&feature=youtu.be}}

==Documentation==

====Terminology====
* Tool path - The path that the water jet will follow when cutting out a part. This includes more than just the outline of the part because the water jet must pierce through the material before performing a cut.
* ProtoMAX LAYOUT- This is the software used to set up a tool path for the water jet and can be found on the laptop that is used with the waterjet.
* MAKE - This is the software that directly communicates with the waterjet to perform a cut from a tool path. It can also be found on the waterjet's laptop.
* Holding posts - The adjustable aluminum rods that are used as mounts for the holding arms.
* Holding arms - These come in several sizes and are used to clamp the material in place while performing a cut.
* Abrasive - This is a sand like substance, in this case garnet, which is mixed with the water to improve cutting.
* Mixing tube - The tip of the nozzle assemble which mixes the water and abrasive together.

==== User Manuals ====
[https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/accessories-home.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7CACCESSORY%20%20GUIDES%7C_____0 Complete list of ProtoMAX manuals]

==Training==
====Overview====

The waterjet cutter is an amazing tool that can be used on a wide variety of materials including 1" steel! However, it is limited to a 12" by 12" cut area with a 1" thickness being its maximum. Make sure the waterjet cutter is capable of handling your part and your material before going through all of the setup procedures. Like cutting many other two dimensional cutting tools, the cutting process should begin with a DXF file created from Solidworks or a similar software. Once a DXF fie has been created it can then be used to create a tool path using ProtoMAX LAYOUT. The detailed steps to do do this can be found in the general procedure but the most important step is to ensure that the water jet pierces the material outside of the part outline. After the tool path is created and the machine has been properly set up, the job can be posted to the MAKE software, which is installed on the water jet's laptop computer, to perform the cut.

====Demonstration====

To show a complete knowledge of the waterjet, the student will design a part in ProtoMAX LAYOUT, create a tool path for the part, and then cut it out. As part of the process the student will also perform the correct set up and shut down procedures. The part for this demonstration can be found in the procedure.

====General Procedure====
'''Part Design in ProtoMAX LAYOUT:'''
# Open ProtoMAX LAYOUT. Your screen should look something like this. [[File:ProtoMAX_LAYOUT.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Line" tool from the "Draw" menu on the left of the screen and create a 2" square with a 1" square notch in the top right corner. To do this, click anywhere on the screen to start the first line. This will bring a popup "Specify Dimensions" box where you will enter 2 into the "Rise (dy)" box. This will create a 2" vertical line. Select the "Line" tool again at the top of the first line and enter 1 into the "Run (dx)" box. This will create a 1" horizontal line to the right. Repeat this process until the box looks like this. The last line at the bottom can by created by selecting both open edges with the "Line" tool. [[File:Basic_shape_of_box.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Circle" tool and choose the intersect option from the bottom of the screen. Click the top, left corner of the square and enter 0.5 for the diameter of the circle.
# Select the circle using the "Select" tool from the "Edit" menu on the left of the screen (make sure to select the top and bottom of the circle). Next, select the "Move" tool from the left side of the screen and choose the "Intersect" option from the bottom of the screen.
# Click on the center of the circle where the corner of the square is and enter 0.5 and -0.5 for the "Run" and "Rise" of the movement. Your screen should look something like this. [[File:Box_with_circle.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
'''Tool Paths''':

Most of the time, you will not be using ProtoMAX LAYOUT to design a part. Thankfully, this program can accept ".dxf" files, but you still have to create the tool paths. If using a ".dxf" file, import the file to skip the last section and start here to give it a tool path.

Before showing you how to create a tool path, there are a couple of things that you must keep in mind. When the water jet cuts it has a kerf which means it will take away some of the material it is cutting and you do not want it to be taking material away from your part. Instead, you want to remove material from the scrap that is not critical to the part's function and as a result the tool path must be created with this in mind. To do this, you must first keep in mind that the waterjet will always cut on the left side of the tool path lines. This changes based on the direction the nozzle is traveling; for example if the nozzle travels clockwise around a circle it will remove excess material outside of the circle and if it travels counterclockwise it will remove excess material from the inside of the circle. Because of this, you must control the direction that the nozzle will travel. For an outside cut, you want it to cut on the outside of the line to preserve the proper dimensions of the part. For and inside cut, you want the opposite of that. For a ring, you would want the nozzle to travel clockwise for the outside cut and counter-clockwise for the inside cut. To control the direction of the nozzle, place lead-in and lead-out lines to specify the start or end of a cut and the cut direction. It is better to cut the inner bits first and then the outer bits last; and don't let the nozzle travel over any holes that are already cut.

# Zoom in closer to the circle. Select the "Lead i/o" tool from the "Draw" menu on the left of the screen. Select the bottom edge of the circle and move the cursor upwards and click to create a lead in and out from the center of the circle. This will tell the water jet to cut on the inside of the circle. Looking at this picture, you can see that one line is longer than the other. This longer line is the lead-in line. The nozzle will penetrate the material from the beginning of the long line and work its way down to the bottom of the circle. Once the nozzle hits the bottom, it will start counter-clockwise because the lead-in line is positioned at a slight angle to make counter-clockwise and easier direction than clockwise. This is how you tell the nozzle which direction to cut.[[File:Lead_i-o.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Next, place a "Lead i/o" near the bottom of the left wall on the square moving your cursor to the left and clicking to tell the machine to cut on the outside of the box.[[File:Lead_io2.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Select the "Line" tool and connect the long, lead-in line of the box to the short, lead-out line of the circle. This is a traverse line telling the machine to move from the circle to the box after it has finished cutting the circle.
# Use the line tool and click on the long, lead-in line for the circle. Place the other end of the line so that it is at least 1/8" past both the left and bottom edge of the part. This will be the origin for the part and the cut. It should look something like this:[[File:Design_with_traverse_lines.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Now you get to decide the quality of each cut. Select the button at the bottom of your screen labeled "Quality". You should see a range from 1 to 5, a Traverse, and Lead i/o. The range of 1 to 5 will change the machines cutting speed. The higher quality is 5 (slower) and the lowest quality is 1 (faster). Choose a quality of 5 for the circle by clicking "5" and then selecting every part of the circle. Do the same for the outer edge but with a quality of 1. Your part should look like this. Leave the traverse lines as green. This indicates where you don't want the machine to cut. [[File:Quality_lines.png|none|thumb|600x600px]]
# Sometimes there are extra points or lines that are unnecessary. To remove these points, click "Clean", click "start" on the popup window, and "okay" on the second popup window. Doing this will insure a tidier cut
# The last step is saving the file to be cut. Click "Post" on the right of your screen. If you have not saved yet, this will ask you to save your drawing; do so. It will then bring you to a window asking you to "Pick Start". Select end of the traverse line that you defined as the origin.
# A window will popup showing the tool path. Zoom in closer to your part and inspect where the tool path is. The program will display cuts as a thick red line. Make sure that these projected cut lines are on the proper side of the line that you specified. If all looks well, hit "save" on the bottom, left of your screen.
'''Waterjet Operation :'''
# Open the water valve located on the wall behind the waterjet. It will be open when the handle is parallel to the water pipe.
# Check the pressure gauge to verify that the water pressure is 40 psi or greater.
# Fill the tank to the top of the metal ribs with the water hose on the right side of the machine.
# Check the garnet hopper. If it is low, fill it up.
# Power on the computer and plug in the USB.
# Power on the water jet cutter.
# Open MAKE.
# Zero the water jet cutter head using MAKE.
# Push the clear plastic hose into the hole located on the side of the nozzle. This hose is called the abrasive feed tube and is used to mix abrasive into the water.
# Position the nozzle between two of the metal ribs, close the lid, and test the nozzle using MAKE. When closing the lid, the support bar on the right side of the lid must be lifted otherwise it will not close. There are two things that should be checked when performing the nozzle test. First, check that the water is flowing through the nozzle. This is necessary because the nozzle can get clogged. Second, check that there is abrasive flowing through plastic tube. It flows quickly but can be identified by a sparkling in the tube as it flows.
#Open the lid, position the material in the machine, and clamp it down. To clamp down the material, first slip the clamping post into the slot on the crossbar and the twist clockwise to tighten it into place. Then slide the material clamp over the post and push down to tighten. Repeat this process with any other clamps that are needed to secure the material. The clamping system can be seen below.[[File:Waterjet_clamps.jpg|none|thumb|479x479px]]
# Load the cut file into MAKE, select the material being cut, and enter its thickness.
# Set the origin point for the machine in MAKE.
# Position the nozzle over the material and adjust the height of the nozzle very carefully making sure the adjustment tool has enough room to wiggle up and down. Do this by loosening the knob on the side of the nozzle with one hand while holding the nozzle with the other. Be very careful not to drop the nozzle onto the material as it could be broken. Slide the adjustment tool, pictured below, under the nozzle and then carefully lower the nozzle onto it. Tighten the knob once the nozzle is positioned correctly.
# Continue to fill the tank with more water so that there is about 1/8" of water above the surface of the material.
# Execute a dry run using MAKE while ensuring that the nozzle will not collide with anything.
# Flip the orange rubber cone down, run the cut. While the cut is running look for material excess floating up; pieces of cut material floating up and getting wedged between the nozzle and other material or clamps could cause a catastrophic failure. If you see any of these things, pause the cut and remove any obstructions before resuming.
'''Waterjet Shutdown:'''
# Remove the material and clamps from the work area.
# Remove the abrasive feed tube from the nozzle.
# Position the nozzle between two of the metal ribs and run a nozzle test to clear any remaining abrasive from the nozzle and prevent future clogging
# Bring the nozzle back to its home position.
# Close MAKE.
# Shut down the laptop.
# Turn off the waterjet.
# Push down on the drain tube to begin letting water out of the tank. Do not pull on the drain tube because it can pop off.
# Drain the tank till it is half full or less. While the water is draining, use the hose to wash off any abrasive in the work area or stuck to the side of the machine.
# Close the lid.
# Close the water valve so that the handle is perpendicular to the pipe.

== Safety ==
The water jet can be a very dangerous machine if not used properly so here are some important safety items to keep in mind. First, Jesus forgives, but 30,000 psi doesn't. So pay attention to these precautions and be safe while operating this machine.
# NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER, EVER turn on the machine without first turning on the water! You could destroy the machine...and your reputation.
# If you see water squirting out the side of the machine while running a cut, don't touch it! It is the fountain of "Bye Bye Fingers."
# Wear rubber gloves while dealing with the water in the tank. The water in there is a nasty pool of bacteria and chemicals just waiting to crawl into your open wounds.
# If you have true "talent" and manage to run the water jet while your hand is underneath it, you have the opportunity of going to the ER and taking with you a medical card that tells the doctors how to treat you so you don't die.

==Certification==

[https://foxtale.georgefox.edu/moodle/enrol/index.php?id=31413 Water Jet FoxTALE Course]

==Troubleshooting==
There are a few common issues you may run into when using the waterjet. First, there may be an issue reaching the proper water level for your material. This is caused by the drain tube on the right side of the tank being at the incorrect height and can be fixed by pushing the drain tube up or down to remove water or allow more to enter. Make sure to wear gloves when doing this to protect from bacteria and never pull on the tube because it can be pulled off. If the tube does pull off don't panic; wait for the water to drain low enough to push the tube back on and then do so.

Another issue is that the abrasive may not be flowing through its tube when performing the nozzle test. If this is happening do not perform a cut until the abrasive if flowing properly. The first thing you should check is the abrasive tube. Make sure that it is completely pushed into the nozzle so that it can be pulled out of the hopper by the vacuum within the nozzle. If this does not fix the issue then there is most likely water in the hose and maybe even in the hopper which causes the abrasive to stick to the feed tube tube instead of flowing through properly. Remove the hopper splash guard, pull the feed tube out of the feed block, and then use an air hose to blow through the feed to clean out any moisture. These components can be seen in the image below. Sometimes the water will travel into the hopper itself and cause the abrasive to clump together. When this happens either wait a day for everything to dry out or carefully disassemble the hopper system and dry it out with the help of an ACE and the [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401434/nozzle-clog.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7COPERATION%20GUIDE%7C_____11 user manual].
[[File:Waterjet_Abrasive.jpg|none|thumb|799x799px]]

Water in the abrasive feed tube is most often caused by the nozzle being clogged. Unclogging the nozzle is a fairly intensive and delicate process and should be done with the help of an ACE. Always reference the manufacturer's [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401434/nozzle-clog.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7COPERATION%20GUIDE%7C_____11 nozzle clog procedure] for the complete process (video included). Before unclogging the nozzle, remove the yellow rubber cone and raise the nozzle as high as it can go while being careful not to let it drop onto the material. [[File:Waterjet_Nozzle.jpg|none|thumb|496x496px]]
#Once this is done, use the included torque wrench to loosen the set screw holding the mixing tube (1) in place. Make sure to hold onto the tube when doing this so it does not drop out.
# Remove the tube and reinsert it upside down so that the pointed end is facing upward.
# Very carefully tighten the set screw to 15 in-lb using the torque wrench. The torque wrench will click when 15 in-lb is reached but it is very faint so tighten slowly or the entire tube will be crushed.
# Run a nozzle test using MAKE and make sure water is flowing through the tube.
# Using the torque wrench, carefully remove the mixing tube and reinsert it in its proper position with the pointed end facing down.
# Replace the yellow rubber cone and then run a nozzle test to check that the clog is gone.

==Maintenance==
====General maintenance====

The waterjet has several items that need to be maintained by the student or the ACE. Please refer to the table below to see each procedure and how often it should occur. The details of each procedure can be found below as well.

====Specific Maintenance Tasks====
{| class="wikitable"
!
!Maintenance Procedure
!Frequency
!Done By
!Last Completion
|-
|1
|General washing
|After each use
|Student
|N/A
|-
|2
|Change pump oil
|After first 50 hrs of use and every subsequent 500 hrs of use
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|3
|Change water filter
|When the filter gauge approaches 25 psi or lower while the pump is running
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|4
|Remove material from tank bottom
|Whenever garnet abrasive reaches the bottom of the garnet collection bins or when excessive water turbulence is noticed during cutting
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|5
|Replace table slats
|Rotate monthly or more frequently if needed; replace when excessively scored and no longer stable
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|6
|Lubricate x-y axis
|After 500 cutting hours or if squeaking
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|7
|Replace nozzle filter
|After approximately 80 cutting hours or more frequently if needed
|Ace or Justin
|
|-
|8
|Rotate mixing tube
|Rotate 90 degrees (one quarter turn) every 8 hours of cutting to even out wear
|Ace or Justin
|
|}
# General washing - This consists of washing off any abrasive from the inside of the machine into the bottom of the tank using the water hose, including the lid.
# For details on changing the pump oil click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-pump-oil.htm?tocpath=MANUALS%7CMAINTENANCE%20GUIDE%7CPump%20Maintenance%7C_____2 here].
# For details on changing the water filter click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-water-filter.htm here].
# For details on cleaning the tank click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/clean-catcher-tank.htm here].
# For details on changing the table slats click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/change-water-filter.htm here].
# For details on lubricating the y axis click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/lube-y-lead-screw.htm here] or [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/lube-x-lead-screw.htm here] for the x axis.
# For details on changing the nozzle filter click [https://knowledgebase.omax.com/protomax/content/401440/replace-nozzle-filter.htm here].
# To rotate the mixing tube, first loosen the set screw with the torque wrench while holding the tube in the other hand. Twist the tube a quarter turn and make sure it is pressed all the way up so that it is seated properly. Tighten the set screw with the torque wrench set to 15 in-lb while looking out for the faint click which signifies the proper tightness. Make sure to set the torque wrench to 0 when finished.